Fabricated 9" Ford Axle Housing Build! Moser Housing. Racecraft Brackets. Tin Soldier Anti Roll Bar!
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- In this one, I show you the build process of a Fabricated 9 Inch Ford Axle Housing for a Fox Body Triangulated Four Link application. I start with a blank housing from Moser Engineering (That I had them weld their upper brackets to) and I add Lower Control Arm Brackets from Racecraft Industries, along with Anti Roll Bar mounts from Tin Soldier Racecars.
With the help of some DOM tubing and 1018 Flat Steel from Stock Car Steel And Aluminum, and my Miller Welder, I weld together a sturdy housing for a project that will hopefully be getting some more time on the channel soon!
Timecodes
0:00 - Axle Build Intro With Moser Housing
1:46 - Axle Housing Backbrace Install
6:18 - Racecraft Lower Control Arm Mounts Doublers
10:55 - Racecraft Lower Control Arm Mounts Install
18:37 - Axle Reinforcement Bracing Fabrication
54:40 - Tin Soldier Racecars Anti Roll Bar Mounting Tab Install
1:00:47 - Brake Plumbing Considerations And Mounting
1:14:40 - Housing End Installation
1:26:53 - Overview And Outro
Music on the video is by Craig Keefer - you can find more here on CZcams!
Hope y'all enjoy the video and I'm always honored when people like my videos and/or subscribe to the channel! Thank you and I also love to hear from you in the comments!
Thanks for watching! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Some ppl would probably say that there is alot of commentary, but I and alot of other appreciate your thought process and reasoning behind of WHY you are doing something. Thank you!
Thanks! Sometimes I, myself, feel like I talk too much in my videos, but I have a hard time editing it out, because I like to explain everything. Thank you for letting me know the commentary is appreciated! Thanks again for watching.
I second this. Love the explaining why. I built a 9in in college for my dad I guess I'm have to buy the stuff and make another one thankfully I saved my blue prints for it
@@ClumsyGamerGuy Very cool!
Good job "Clarence." LOL That movie was a riot!
HAHA, lots of good lines for sure! Thanks!
Keefer, Thank you for all that information. It is nice to talk with someone who has a better understanding of everything required. I’m going to go over your suggestions and decide. It’s that required horsepower to get to that ET that’s keeping me real. I’m not as young as I used to be.
I hear you! 8 second cars are really cool and plenty fast! 7's are pretty serious, but obtainable with the right investment these days. Good luck with your project and have fun with it! Another thing to consider is the different NHRA license levels and safety requirements. Once you get faster than 7.50, you need things like a driveshaft tube, and a more serious NHRA license that requires health physicals and stuff like that if you want to do NHRA events. Plenty to consider. Thanks again.
Thank you for taking the time to make these vids. They help ppl like me on my build.
I'm glad the videos help! It makes it worth doing knowing that they help. Thanks for watching!
Welcome back man...we've missed ya!
Thanks! Yeah, sorry for not posting much recently. I have a ton filmed, but editing takes so much time. Thanks again!
You did a great job on that rear axle. I was impressed.
I purchased 60’ of CM .083 and I’m putting in my order for the other sizes. Thanks for responding. Mark
Thanks. Out of curiosity, what kind of cage are you building? It might not hurt to get a little more 1 5/8 .083 if you're doing a 25.5 or something. Main hoop is 12 or 13 feet typically, door bars are about 10 feet (25.5 can use 1 1/2 passenger side), if you need rocker bars (depending on frame style and how much stock body you have left), those use about 9 feet, Roof and A pillar stuff uses almost 20 feet, rear main hoop support bars typically use 4 or 5 feet each, in a 25.5, there are a few funny car bars that are 1 5/8 too. 25.5's use a good amount of 1 1/2 .065; . The funny car bars are mostly made of 1 1/2 and depending on how you do them, the #15 main hoop cross bar either needs to be 1 5/8 or 1 1/2, and it's a little over 4 feet long typically. A lot depends on how everything is done. The other thing is when mistakes are made, which does happen. Sorry to go on forever, just wanted to give you an idea of how much the cage style can change how much of which size tubing you need. Thanks again.
No need to apologize. Details are always welcome. I’m torn between the 25.5 and 25.3. I’m not sure my heavy car will ever see 6.50 ETs.
Your points are appreciated. You know the old A Bodies have a factory frame. I’m going to supplement that with additional bars for reinforcement. I’m trying to lighten but keep that factory frame under the car. I hope that isn’t a mistake. Building a completely new front suspension wasn’t in my plans. But would shave weight.
I’ll compare notes with your suggestions and revise my tubing order accordingly. I’m certain your opinion matters, at least to me.
Thanks,
Mark
@@anetworkservice Sorry, I didn't remember you were working on an A body. The 25.3 uses slightly bigger door X secondary tubes, and has the extra inner rear funny car tube mandatory, but other than that, the main differences are in the roof area. 1 1/8" roof X and more gusseting in the roof and cowl area depending on how you build it (also no square tubing, MIG welds, or mild steel tubing allowed in the 25.3 chassis). With an A Body, the stock frame rails are below and outside of the driver, so they're definitely good to use as rocker bars with the proper boxing for the 6a and 6b front crossmember bars, the #1 rear cross member and #9 seat bar and stuff like that. If I recall SFI wants you to have stock rockers, cowl, and maybe even the hinge posts to use them (I'd have to look back through the book to check). The 25.2 spec requires tubular rocker bars, but that's the 3200 lb. 6.0 cert (Lighter car) as you probably know. It's hard to decide between a 25.5 and 25.3, because you don't want to have to add tubes later, but if you ever start running low 7's or into the 6's, you should have them. For a car weighing between 3200 and 3600 lbs, to get into the 6's takes close to 3000 hp depending on a few variables. You could probably go quicker than a 7.50 with about 2000 HP. What you could do is, build the 25.5 spec with all the correct tubing sizes for a 25.3 (maybe even do the entire roof X or just do a diagonal with 1 1/8" instead of 1"), and be able to add all of the 25.3 gussets later if you wanted, but you'd be really close to a 25.3 at that point. It just depends on what you want to do. A 25.5 keeps it relatively simple and light.
Nick, you’re like a mad scientist with that shop, you need a good shop cleaning. I’m a messy guy but really
I have a lot of projects going on at once, but sometimes I do get to clean up a bit (Check out 2:33 ). As I get projects together and out, I should be able to establish a little more clear space. Thanks for watching!
I get it, I go until all tools are our and all cords are in knots...then I stop and regroup. Your talent is over the top as is the sheer perfection of your work.
@@bobkillion9681 That's the way! haha. Thank you, I appreciate it. Thanks again for watching and chiming in.
Keefer, I enjoy your channel. Especially the work on the Chevelle. What are you going to do for the vent? Leaving it standard?
Question: How much tubing did you use for the Chevelle?
Never mind. I should have waited a little longer.
Looks amazing!
I thought you’d need at least two passes on the ends.
Great job!
Thanks! Welding the ends on can be a little tricky to keep them straight, but I had such a nice, flat, gapless fit between the ends and the tubes, they didn't tilt enough to even bind the setup bar during welding (I spin it periodically to make sure everything stays in-line), so it worked out really well. Three total passes (2 over the initial pass) was definitely the way to go, as only two would leave the joint a little thin. Thanks for watching! Also, the Chevelle cage is made of a few different sizes of tubing. I am still working on finishing it, but, off the top of my head, it'll probably end up being something like 3 or 4 20' sticks of 1 5/8 .083, a stick or 2 of 1 1/2 .065, then several feet of 1" .049 and 3/4" .049 for gussets and helmet bars. It'll also be getting most of a stick of 1 1/4 .058 for the door X's and dash bar, and maybe some more if it ends up getting floor diagonals. Thanks again for watching!
Nice work. Very informative. Where did you get the conical alignment ends?
Thank you, Glad the video is helpful. I had a friend machine them from a pair of cylindrical ones that come with the Mittler Brother's kit which were intended for a MoPar bearing size application. Thanks for watching!
Love your video's. Tig welded for several years. Built a lot of race car parts over the years. But my welding never looks as clean as yours. What the secret?
Thanks for the compliment! I feel like I still have a lot to learn and a lot of experience to gain, but I just try to make sure everything is clean and set up right, and it's also important not to overheat the metal (especially with chromoly). Using the gas lens tends to make the welds a lot cleaner, and I run the Argon in the mid 20's CFH. It's good to weld with the amperage set as high as possible without the arc blowing through the metal so that you can move along the weld joint quickly which helps keep overall heat down in the part. Setting up so that you're comfortable while welding and so that you can clearly see what you are welding helps a lot too, mainly with consistency and weld placement. Thanks again, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for your comment
@@carrolpatterson776 No problem, good luck with your projects!
I noticed you can weld both right handed and left handed which is your dominant hand & which feels easiest to you , as i'm semi ambidextrous i'm mostly right handed dominant but i do a lot left handed & am having trouble getting comfortable , do you have any tips please
It's definitely advantageous learning how to weld with both hands. The hardest thing for me is maintaining consistency in regards to bead length and travel speed hand to hand. Interestingly, the same goes for the foot pedal. I can use either foot, but I tend to favor my left. I used to switch feet more, but usually stick to the left unless I need to switch. I write left handed, but I do many things right handed, such as using scissors. At this point, the hand that holds the torch in the best position is the one that feels easiest to me, but if I could go either way, I think I'd be temped to choose my left hand. I would say practice with both hands according to which better suits the job you're doing. If you find one hand to be more stable, or consistent, sometimes you can setup the workpiece to accommodate using that hand to weld, but like anything, experience is the only way to gain proficiency. Thanks again for watching and commenting.
Great video mate, I recently built one myself. Good fun. May I ask, where did you get your “pucks” and collars for aligning the housing ends in the last bit of the video? They look like a nice bit of gear. @keefer thanks. Keep up the great videos!
Thanks! I love building housings. The pucks and bar are a kit made by Mittler Brothers. It's a nice kit with pucks for a lot of different bearing sizes. The conical tapered ones are actually a pair of their pucks designed to fit in a mopar center section that I had a friend machine down from cylindrical to conical in shape. I am using 2 more of the pucks, that are included in the kit, in the setup 9 inch 3rd member in-place where the carrier bearings go in order to hold the bar in place. Thanks for watching!
@@keefershotrodshop thanks for the reply. I’ll look into that thanks, shipping to Australia will be the issue 😂 Keep up the cool videos 👍
@@benjamincrouch583 No problem, it's a heavy kit, and might cost a bit to get over there. I'll endeavor to keep the videos coming, I have started editing my next one. Good luck getting an alignment jig and thanks again for watching!
Hey Keefe. I got a question. I just recently got my 25.2 chassis done in my s10. The truck has no engine or trans in it. It is completely bare except the chassis. I have coilovers on all 4 corners of truck When I got it back from chassis guy I realized the truck was weighed down on driver side/ leaning a little. The trucks stance is not even. He said it is because more bars and steering column is on driver side weighting it down. However he said once I put engine in it will correct the leaning I have on the driver's side is that correct. Have you seen this before
Is the engine and transmission offset to the passenger side like stock, or centered in the chassis/truck?
@@keefershotrodshop there is no engine and trans in it yet
@@cortezcrawford154 Sorry.. WILL the engine and transmission be offset to the passenger side like stock, or centered in the chassis/truck?
@@keefershotrodshop centered
@@cortezcrawford154 Alright, I gotya. The first thing I would check, if the truck has an anti roll bar in it, is to see if that anti roll bar is adjusted such that it is loading the suspension to make it lean that way. If it doesn't have an anti roll bar in the truck or if it isn't hooked up, since it's on coilovers, I'd check to see if the spring adjusters on the shocks are set such that one side would sit higher than the other side. With the truck having nothing in it, it should sit pretty close to level with the spring adjusters set evenly side-to-side (maybe a tiny bit lower if the driver side does have a bit more weight). Once everything is in the truck, and it's ready to race, you will want to set the shocks up so that the truck sits level and the suspension will need to be preloaded to force the passenger/right rear tire down a bit more than the driver/left rear with the driver in the car. This is to counteract the reaction of the driveshaft and pinion reacting against the ring gear and axles/wheels/tires trying to force the driver/left side tire down when power is applied. This preload is tuned/adjusted to make the vehicle drive straight on the track under power. With a parallel 4 link, this preload will be done by adjusting the bars (typically tuned with the upper right/passenger bar) and then setting the anti roll bar neutral once adjusted. With ladder bars this preload will be made by adjusting the ladder bars to force the right/passenger rear tire down a little more and setting the anti roll bar neutral once adjusted, but with a triangulated 4 link, 3 link, or some leaf spring suspensions, the anti roll bar is used to establish this preload. Good luck with it, I hope you can figure out why it's doing that. You'll just have to start measuring everything to understand what is going on.
Yea u a hell of a welder now build a car say a vega
Thank you! I appreciate it! I like vegas, but I don't have one. Plenty of Fox Bodies around the shop, though. Hopefully I'll be building and racing one of my cars soon. Thanks for watching!