I highly suspect that the impurity in there is Titanium(IV) ions, as that Ti(V) complex ions are usually yellow to brownish-red color, and Ti(III) ion is purple. Also hydrochloric acid is normally produced in titanium-lined equipment, so titanium can be a very common contamination in the acid.
Love your videos, thanks for sharing! Never realized that distilling >20% HCl would just produce fumes at the beginning. Learned something new, thanks!
If you bubble the HCl-Gas from a heated impure 32 % acid through the destillated azeotropic one, you will get a higher concentrated pure acid. The concentration of the distilled acid should be determined by tritration. Hydrochloric acid with a concentration above 20 % should always be stored in labglassbottles under a red cap which is coated with PTFE. The PE bottles from the hardware store are not tight enough to hold back the HCl-gas during a longer storage. If you don't store the acid in very tight bottles, everything what is made of metal in the room in which you store the acid will heavily corrode soon... For the same reason HCl shouldn't be used as a pool chemical: even very diluted with the pool water it will corrode the metal parts of the pool pump in direct contact much faster than more common supplies as sulfuric acid or sodium hydrogensulfate which I would recommend instead for adjusting the pH, because most metals are passivated against diluted sulfuric acid, but not against HCl.
Bubbling vapors from hot hcl is a poor way of generating hcl gas. Its azeotrope with water is 20%... So 80% of the vapor is water. A better solution is use a ported flask and a funnel with a stopcock. Put regular table salt into the flask and put sulfuric acid into the funnel, adjust the stopcock valve to slowly drip the acid onto the salt. Pure hcl gas will be generated this way. After its been going for a few seconds all of the air in the flask will be pushed out and you can run a tube from the port to your reactor to bubble 100% hcl into.... Hows the saying go.... Cleanliness is next to godliness 😇😎
@@idontknowmyfirstname69 Because HCl builds an azeotrop you definitly CAN drive out the gas from a hot CONCENTRATED hydrochlorid acid. Until its concentration reached 20 % only the gas and nearly no water will come over. If you bubble the gas in COOL 20 % destilled hydrochloric acid, you will get a pure AND contrateted acid! Surely you can also use NaCl and (if you are allowed to in your country...) conc. H2SO4 or easier available NaHSO4 by heating (I just made a video of this method), but why should we use three reagents, when one is also sufficient? 😉
@@experimental_chemistrynow i don't disagree with you but in essence this is a simple distillation we are discussing. You were absolutely right but an actual practice when you have a mixture of two liquids in a solution and distilling the one off of the other when both of their individual boiling temperatures are that close you almost always tend to bring a little bit of one with the other even before it reaches its Asian trope. Personally I avoid distilling HCL it is a god-awful gas that I have got alone full of once and I intend to never again but I have found this short of using reflux column doing a fractional distillation whether I'm distilling ethanol from water or nitric acid from water for HCL from water I found that it always brings a little bit with it even before it hits your true now as far as concentrations go around here it's kind of hit and miss a lot of the products aren't labeled some are as high as 3132% concentration others are 18 to 20% concentration most of which all have organic buffers of some kind some even have detergents in them most won't even tell you what their percentage of concentration is on the bottle you have to look up the data safety sheet I prefer not to leave anything to chance
@@idontknowmyfirstname69 I guess you are principally right, too. It's was just an idea to keep things simple also in increasing the concentration. And never forget to use an inverted funnel when bubbling HCl in liquids containing water... 😉 I tried my method years ago just for fun without any need: in my country you can get relatively pure AND stable concentrated hydrochloric acid in every hardwarestore. It tended to have 24 or 32 % HCl and that's really true - I have tested it by titration. You must have just one thing in focus: don't buy it when it looks yellow. There are enough stores that sell good colourless stuff... A so heavy contaminated acid like Harry's I've never seen here...
You could also warm it up to drive HCl gas out and bubble it to distilled water. After a while azeotropic consentration is reached and you'll get it out. You can also bubble HCl gas through something like previous azeotropic to get higher consentration. Just make sure to avoid suckback when dealing with gas. Colder water helps here too. Of course, if you don't need it stronger than 20% and storage volume is no issue, your methos is simpler.
The excess HCl gas can be absorbed in the distillate if you cool the receiver flask with ice. Major impurity in crude HCl is iron and calcium (I presume, but it depends on source)
@@janami-dharmam That should work too and be so simple. Fpr getting 16% solution it is enough to just put in a closed space open beaker of 32% and another beaker with distilled water. At same temp. you'll get 50/50 distribution of hcl to similar amount of water. Very high solubility of HCl gives you so many unusual options.
@@hoggif this too is a form of distillation and works best if (i) air is removed first and (ii) both the vessels are kept on a metal block so that isothermal condition is maintained.
@@janami-dharmam I would not consider a deistillation when it is about dissolved gas escaping or evaporation without boiling. It would be mo effective if HCl source is how (high vapor pressure) and receiver cold (lower vapor pressure and gases dissolve more). Similar temperature is not optimal but temperature difference is often difficult to maintain for a long period.
@@hoggif You forgot the density of hydrochloric acid. 1 ml isn't 1 g. 32 % has a d. of 1,16 g/l, 16 % 1,08 g/l. So you have got to take a smaller volume, if you want to get the correct concentration. Acid isn't moonshine, whose concentration is messured in vol. ;-)
Looking forward to your results on the lithium batteries. Ive gave it a go a couple of times this last year and my biggest result has been a large excess of frustration... I think any solution that may be found is really gonna be out of left field 😒
I think i would not put as much water in. If the concentration was lower than expected, you might have excess water coming over with the azeotrope. Using a little less water (10% ?) might force some HCl to the scrubber, but will also hit the 20% mark and perhaps a little higher than that in the collection flask
I found your channel a few days ago. In the videos of you making sodium hydroxide, you say several times, that you generate hydrogen and chlorine gas. Now I want to see you building a collector for these, then combining these gases so they can form HCl, then give the HCl contact to water ->>> boooom ->>> hydrochloric acid!!! Please! Can you do that, PLEASE?! Thank you very much for your work done so far! I learned a lot!
I've been planning on doing this for a while. However, the reaction between hydrogen and chlorine can be very dangerous and explosive if not performed properly, so I'm still working my way up to trying it. The full project will probably be a long while away, sorry.
Speaking from experience here: the acid starts clear and yellows with either age,light or oxygen exposure.not sure what the cause is. Also rather than distilling a quicker way is get a coke bottle with a hose coming out the top, pour in some acid drop in a ball of Al foil and bubble fumes thru water.not 100% yeilds but quick and easy. I found peroxide caused a brown colour not red for me.and as stated below the hardware store bottles do leak and allow gas to escape causing everything around it to corrode. So always keep it outside
Again I'll say it. I'm speaking from experience your quoting literature. this is a hotly debated topic among hobby chemists and on paper H2 should be the product but in reality the rxn is so exothermic a massive amount of HCL gas is produced. I've never bothered to find out how much but Its a lot.again I'm speaking from experience. Go fill a bottle 1/4 full of 35%hcl drop in some Al foil and report back
A better way to get pure hydrochloric acid it's just set up a distillation using rock salt and dripping sulfuric acid on it when there is a little bit of liquid in the salt you turn on the heat to distill it over however you will get some distillate before that. You can add a little bit of water to the rock salt to expedite the reaction but it's not really necessary
Have you tried the white bottle HCL from bunnings, they have labeled it as pool acid. It's supposed to be more pure so I don't know if it has the impurities that are in the black bottle.
As a matter of fact, the acid I use in this video is actually from the white bottles from Bunnings (I buy it in the 5 litre containers and then put some of it into this black bottle because it’s easier to pour from). In my experience, there’s little to no difference between the two products (maybe the white bottles have slightly less iron, but it’s pretty much negligible).
@@ScrapScienceWe used the pool version to experiment with replacing the sulfuric acid with HCl in the carbon snake experiment... had to add heat using a hot plate and got a really odd foam instead of a "snake". Done outdoors due to fumes.
Yep, if you try to distill the 32% stuff, it will first give off a lot of HCl fumes (which will not condense) before the concentration will decrease to the azeotrope and distill properly. I just find it easier to avoid dealing with the HCl generation, and skip straight to the azeotrope distillation. That way there’s not too much to worry about when capturing the excess gas.
@@ScrapScience yes, but if you put some plain distilled water in the flask, that HCl will happily dissolve in the solution and if you cool the flask you can get more than 20% conc
Why didn't you put any boiling chips? You are lucky the distillation was so tame. I strongly suggest using boiling chips because you mentioned that other distillations were not so tame as this one.
Could you specify what reducing agent introduced a purple color? I'm speculating that anthroquinone(which is involved in H2O2 production) formed complexes with iron in HCl which caused it to turn red
The purple colour I show here appeared after dissolving some pure gallium metal in the HCl. I've also seen the colour arise when adding aluminium, and some other reducing agents that I can't recall right now.
There are many plastics that don't react with HCl, so I don't really see why glass is necessary. Also, how could a small degree of exposure to air ruin the purity?
As a matter of fact, I'm in Australia too. And the swimming pool HCl you're talking about is exactly the acid I used in this video (I only store it in one of these black bottles because it's easier to pour from). There's definitely impurity in there, even if it's not visibly obvious.
I get it that HCl in water has an azeotrope of 20.2%... Therefore, the LIQUID output from your condensor will be at that strength. However... If you were to use 33% in your boiling flask, and you allowed your condensor output to bubble through the content of your azeotropic receiving flask *thereby re-absorbing HCl gas into the azeotrope), wouldn't you end up with something fairly close to your 33% source acid? (Industrially, 33% HCl acid is produced by absorbing HCl gas into water until it's near saturation. There's many industrial processes that release HCl gas as a 'waste' product and this waste is used to make 33% HCl)
Correct. I just didn't really want to deal with trying to dissolve HCl gas in water in this case. If things went wrong or the gas were improperly absorbed, it would present a pretty big issue.
If hcl solution is yellow it is because the pigment from sodium chromate, i think in some countries the law does not permit to sell hcl based house materials ithout coliring for ditinguishing for securities for children for exemple, i think so...
I think it's very unlikely that chromate would be added to a chemical that is designed to be used in pools. It's perfectly possible that the colour is added for the reason you've suggested though.
You said you added water to dilute it before putting it in your heating mantle. Did you use tap water? If so, those "impurities" might not be from your hardware store hydrochloric acid; they might be from the water. I recommend using, at minimum, distilled water next time (or every time you need to add water to something) but you should really go for RO water (reverse osmosis water). RO water should/will have a TDS reading of below 5, distilled water till have a TDS of below 30-40 whereas tap water can have a TDS reading anywhere from 50 to 400+. My last house had TDS readings of around 300. I moved a few miles away and my TDS reading is now 80. Yet, when I boil water for a long time when cooking, I see the stuff on the sides of the pot that looks very similar to yours -- leading me to believe that some of those contaminants might be from the water.
I don't understand what's up with the Sodium Hydroxyde on the right side? what does it capture? do you trash it ? is it dangerous ? you had 275ml of 37% HCl acid, you add 225ml of water, but you will get 2x 250ml, of purified, but not concentrated, your acid concentration is reduced right?
The sodium hydroxide is just there to react with any acidic fumes that might make it out of the apparatus. If any acidic fumes were to escape, it would have prevented release into the atmosphere (and more importantly, my lungs). Yes, the final product is reduced in concentration.
Why You just did not transfered the hydrogen chloride into new, clean water by dripping this acid on conc sulfuric acid and bubbling into that new water?
Because that reaction would be more difficult, require the use of sulfuric acid, and would not be a quantitative reaction. The direct distillation of hydrochloric acid is simpler, doesn't involve dealing with large amounts of hydrogen chloride gas, and has the capability of recovering virtually all of the initial acid (albeit at a lower concentration). Using a more complex setup only to get a higher concentration in the end product just isn't really justified here, given how simple this was to perform.
Prices might be different for you, but I can get sodium bisulfate for about $7/kg. With a 100% yield in an HCl generator, 1 kg of sodium bisulfate can make about 300g of HCl gas, which translates to nearly a litre of concentrated HCl. As a result, this kind of generator would make concentrated HCl at a price of $7 per litre (neglecting the price of sodium chloride), which is being generous. Since I can buy concentrated HCl directly at around half that price, it's definitely simpler for me to just use this distillation method. That might just be for me though. Prices of these chemicals are rather different depending on location.
This is a common rule, but not one that actually applies under many cases. The 'always add acid to water' rule is only important when an acid has a highly exothermic reaction upon dissolution in water. The reason we pour the acid into water in these cases is because the high heat capacity of water is capable of absorbing the heat released, and doing it the other way around would cause the mixture to heat up considerably (possibly boiling and spraying everywhere). This is most important when working with concentrated sulfuric acid or nitric acid, since they release a lot of heat when mixed with water. In the case of concentrated hydrochloric acid however, not much heat is released when diluted in water, and the heat capacity of the acid is rather high anyway (since it is already comprised of ~70% water). As such, the 'always add acid to water' rule just doesn't apply at all in this case, and there are no issues associated with adding water to the acid.
@@ScrapScience I did wonder if the hardware store bought Hydrochloric was concentrated enough to be a problem with the addition of water. I use it almost everyday at my workshop to remove dross and mill scale from plasma cut steel, I usually further dilute it 20% of volume. At that strength, would you consider short term skin contact to be hazardous, probably more over long term? I quite often grab something without gloves and sure if you have a cut or other skin injury it’s not pleasant and I would typically rinse the exposed skin in a few seconds and it’s never caused any acute or chronic skin issues that I’m aware of and I can’t find anything online about it, obviously nobody is promoting washing in acid solutions for some reason 😂
Getting acid on your skin and then thoroughly washing it off in a matter of seconds will leave no long term effects. The worst thing that could happen is that your skin might get a bit dry for a while. It's always a good idea to wear gloves though. Long term contact and any exposure involving your eyes is a completely different story however.
I wanted to ask you something as your expertise is in electrochemistry and I don’t know a lot about it. I have planned to make some mercury metal from a solution of mercury(II) sulfate in hydrochloric acid. Would it be possible to just put two electrodes into solution and to run a current trough it? If so what kind of electrodes should be used?
Woah, electrochemistry with mercury, I'll look forward to seeing it! Honestly, I've never worked with mercury in electrochemistry, nor have I even worked with it at all (aside from one time in high school when my friend and I broke open 100 tilt switches to extract the metal, but that's another story). As a result, I'm not going to be able to give you any practical knowledge here, but nonetheless, there are a few things I'm able to tell you before you start: 1) Yes, I would imagine that electrolysis of any mercury(II) solution would give you mercury on the cathode. Since the oxidation states of mercury are (relatively) simple, and the reduction potential is very high, there's not much that would prevent this from occurring. 2) For your electrodes, You've got different options to pick for your cathode and anode. Since your goal is to make metallic mercury, I assume you'll probably want a cathode which won't be amalgamated by the mercury as it forms. As you might guess, iron is probably a good choice here, though it does have a very low overpotential for hydrogen generation, especially in acidic conditions, which may prevent mercury from being formed (this is very unlikely, but a possible issue). If iron doesn't work, copper should be a good choice, though it will slowly be amalgamated of course. Graphite/carbon may also be a good option. As for your anode, since you're doing this in an acidic solution containing chloride ions, there's only one choice for an anode that won't passivate or contaminate your solution. This is graphite or carbon. It will likely disintegrate and fill your solution with graphite dust as you electrolyse, but there will be no chemical contamination introduced to either your solution or your metallic product, so in my opinion, it's the only valid choice. 3) As a result of electrolysing an acidic solution containing chloride ions, you're going to generate chlorine gas on the graphite anode. Obviously it's nothing you can't deal with, but be prepared to generate a lot of it as a by-product of the reaction. 4) A much bigger safety concern than the generation of chlorine is the generation of aerosolised solution. Since you're generating chlorine on the anode, you'll get the gas coming off the electrode in the form of microbubbles (a common thing to happen in electrolysis reactions), which will throw invisibly small droplets of solution EVERYWHERE. Seriously, it's quite amazing how far this aerosol can travel. From what I've seen of your videos, you appreciate safety measures to a high extent, and I'm sure you'll agree with me when I say that an aerosol of mercury solution would be my absolute worst nightmare! You're probably planning on doing this anyway, but it is essential to perform the reaction in some kind of semi-contained vessel, lest you fill the air with mercury salts. This might be a tricky thing to do since your vessel will probably fill with chlorine as you perform the reaction, but maybe something like Nurdrage's 'electrolysis box' project might work well (possibly with the addition of a constant airflow through it, with some kind of filter to catch the aerosol?). 5) Another thing to remember is that if you're going to use a cathode like iron or copper, it's important to never leave the electrodes in the solution while they're unconnected to your power supply. As you're aware from your 'Recycling mercury from Hg containing solution' video, these metals will replace the mercury in solution when they're not cathodically protected by the voltage you apply, and will contaminate your solution if you turn the power off. 6) I find this unlikely, but it's entirely possible that you might make mercury(I) ions as a by-product of the cathode reaction. I'm not sure what would happen here, since I'm unaware of general mercury chemistry, but maybe mercurous chloride would precipitate? Or maybe mercury(I) ions are unstable in acidic conditions, I don't know. Just be aware that if mercury(I) ions are at all stable in your solution, there's a chance they might be made instead of metallic mercury. 7) If you find that your electrolysis process just doesn't make any mercury at all, and instead makes hydrogen on the cathode, it might be because your solution is too acidic, or some kind of ligand effect is interfering with the reduction of the mercury (Does mercury exist in some stange complex here? Again I'm not sure what's happening with the mercury chemistry). I find it extremely unlikely, but if you don't see any mercury being made, these issues are likely to be the cause. Not really sure how you'd fix these issues, so it's best to just hope they don't happen. 8) The anode reaction will remove chloride ions from solution. Will this possibly decrease the solubility of mercury sulfate as time goes on? You'd definitely know more than me in this regard, so I'll leave the implications of this one to you. 9) Finally, if you want your mercury product to be pure, ensure that there are NO other metallic ions in solution. Mercury has quite an amazing electrochemical ability to reduce pretty much any metallic ion when used as a cathode. Seriously, even if you have sodium ions in solution, the mercury you make on the cathode will allow for the generation of sodium metal on the electrode surface, and you'll end up with a mercury-sodium amalgam. Similar stories follow for pretty much every single other metallic ion, so avoid them all if you can. I feel like I got a little carried away there, and you probably know most of these things already, but that's pretty much all I have to say. Hope it helps, and I wish you the best of luck with your mercury extraction!
amazing video is there other ways of purifying hydrochloric acid without distillation for exemple Can I purify hydrochloric acid from iron impurities by putting distilled water in a bottle and the hydrochloric acid full of impurities in another bottle and attaching them to a tube and leaving them for two weeks and the pure hydrochloric acid will dissolve in the bottle in which is in distilled water ,is it possible and sorry for my weak english
Yeah, that's possible if you've got the time. I'm not sure what kind of concentration you'll get though (it will probably depend on the relative volumes of the acid/water you start with).
@@ScrapScience So I think if i start with a 30% concentration of HCl full of impurities and another bottle is just distilled water and the HCl gas will dissolve in this distilled water, the concentration will be 15% in the distilled water Is that how it will be?
The 'always add acid to water' rule only really applies when an acid has a highly exothermic reaction upon dissolution in water. The reason we pour the acid into water in these cases is because the high heat capacity of water is capable of absorbing the heat released, and doing it the other way around would cause the mixture to heat up considerably (possibly boiling and spraying everywhere). This is most important when working with concentrated sulfuric acid or nitric acid, since they release a lot of heat when mixed with water. In the case of concentrated hydrochloric acid however, not much heat is released when diluted in water, and the heat capacity of the acid is rather high anyway (since it is already comprised of ~70% water). As such, the 'always add acid to water' rule just doesn't apply in this case, and there are no issues associated with adding water to the acid.
I wish there was a simpler way to purify acid The only hydrochloric acid I can get is a horrible tile cleaner that is ok for things like generating chlorine and other gases, but it has a detergent or something that makes it foam and sodium sulphate and a blue pigment It's horrible basically, added too much idk, carbonate? well now your corrosive acid is all over your bench! It's stubborn to clean it out of anything because it's just a screw you, some bubbles will aways stay, it's horrible If I could simultaneously concentrate it more and purify it, it would be amazing
Do you have a video on your lithium extraction process? I am currently attempting the same. And hoping to salvage the HCL afterwards for other projects
If we left it at 32% concentration, the first stage of the distillation would first release HCl as a gas which would not condense. It's not too hard to collect the gaseous HCl and redissolve it back into water, but it's just simpler to skip that part by distilling the azeotrope directly.
I could have, but this is just easier honestly. We don't lose any of the acid, we don't have to deal with any significant amounts of HCl gas, and having the acid in a slightly diluted form isn't really a big deal for hydrochloric acid.
Hi my Australian friend sorry to bother but I need your help I made the Birkeland-Edye reactor with timer airpump (30s on 3min off) in three minutes the chamber get nice red color then the pump turn on to react the gas with distilled water (50ml(grams) of distilled water ) it's reacts violently with water and turn to steam which condense inside the plastic bottle return to the water. in the first 3 hours I weighted the water it was 52.8grams after 12 hours it was only 53.2 grams Idk what's happened (I smelled strong NO2 gas in the room I turned off the reactor And turn on the fan to blow out the gases). I know that the gas escape from the water some how is it because of the PH? Does I am missing something? Can you explain please (any suggestions to make the gas dissolve more in the water(like sodium bicarbonate) Should I separate the steam from the water I think the steam produced from the reaction is concentred nitric acid correct me if I'm wrong. N thanks for your help I really appreciate it.
I can't really diagnose the problem with the information you've given, but the most likely reason you're losing your product is because you're not keeping it cold. You need an ice bath for your collection flask, since nitrogen oxides will dissolve in water much better at low temperatures. Allowing your solution to reach boiling temperatures will drastically diminish your yield, and cause you to lose lots of your product.
@@ScrapScience thanks for replying What kind of information you want to know. I can give you any information. But the flask doesn't get very hot it's about 25~30C*. Do you think it's because of the PH I mean I can't make concentred nitric acid just by babbling NO2 gas in water!? It should be a limit for dissolving the gas(NO2) in water (10%or 20 or more 🤔) before the gas start running out of the nitric acid ( how much%of nitric acid I can reach in 100ml of water just by bubbling NO2 in it. If you can help me with that please so I can change the water each time to prevent losing NO2 gas. Thanks alot
Hi, I have a bit of a random chemistry question if you or anyone can answer. I want to react silver tungstate with cesium chloride to produce cesium tungstate. How do I do this considering the ag2wo4 is insoluble in water. It is soluble in hno3, nh3 or potassium cyanide but I'm not sure if that helps me. Thanks Tom
Be extremely careful if you are even thinking of working with potassium cyanide it and solutions of it in water are highly toxic and rapidly blocks the ability of cells in the human body to intake oxygen. Potassium cyanide is also a tightly restricted chemical in most areas and countries. Please if you handle potassium cyanide be extremely careful with it. Ammonia gas is a toxic and corrosive gas and can burn holes in the lungs if large amounts are inhaled so please also be extremely careful handling ammonia gas
@@SodiumInteresting yes I'm not necessarily saying that you should avoid working with ammonia gas or potassium cyanide or any other highly toxic chemicals, I'm simply saying if you do choose to do so just be very careful and use appropriate safety gear and proper safety procedures, practices and protocols
The easiest way to make nitrogen oxides including nitrogen dioxide is to react concentrated nitric acid and copper metal turnings or small pieces of copper metal like copper coins. But be extremely careful concentrated nitric acid is highly corrosive and is a strong oxidising agent and nitrogen dioxide is a toxic gas
If we connect a 12V 20A power supply with a 5V 40A power supply in series connection.. What will be the output voltage and current?!?! BTW love your vids!! You are very extraordinary and have unique ideas unlike some other cliche "Sodium in water" youtubers!!!!
@@procactus9109 Can you please givee me an explanation on how you measured it out!!! Also will this type of series connection damage any of the power supplies??
@@heisenbergstayouttamyterri1508 the voltage is simple added. The max current is the lowest current of the power supplies... Both have to be electrically isolated, ie. No common ground.. this means you can't use 5 and 12v from a single PC supply.... No damage will occur if both outputs are isolated and you don't over shoot current demand. It's a bit dodgy but will work.
@@procactus9109 Yes, I'm tryin' to say that I am using two different power supplies with different voltage and current!!! Also can a 5V 60Amp power supply be good enough for persulfate cell???
The 'always add acid to water' rule only really applies when an acid has a highly exothermic reaction upon dissolution in water. The reason we pour the acid into water in these cases is because the high heat capacity of water is capable of absorbing the heat released, and doing it the other way around would cause the mixture to heat up considerably (possibly boiling and spraying everywhere). This is most important when working with concentrated sulfuric acid or nitric acid, since they release a lot of heat when mixed with water. In the case of concentrated hydrochloric acid however, not much heat is released when diluted in water, and the heat capacity of the acid is rather high anyway (since it is already comprised of ~70% water). As such, the 'always add acid to water' rule just doesn't apply in this case, and there are no issues associated with adding water to the acid. Like many things, knowledge of 'basic chemistry' will teach you simple rules, but with knowedge of intermediate or advanced chemistry, you'll understand when these rules do and don't apply.
How are you suggesting to make hydrochloric acid? As far as I know, the methods of electrolytic production are difficult and require a rather complex (and somewhat dangerous) setup.
Ever since I watched you screw up you're iodine making and bromine video, the wrong way yet still go on like you're a real chemist, i just cannot take you're videos seriously 😂!!!
I love Hydrochloric acid, Nitric acid, Phosphoric asid, urea/uric acid and Hydrazine hydrate. Anyone want to guess what and why all these mentioned chemical mixture is used for? Curious how man know but no googling
Can you please do a gold extraction from a bvg chip that has gold and silver inside I scrap gold but would love to see it on a professional level please if that’s ok. 1 BVG Computer chip scrapped for free or I can provide you with 10. I collect to extract my self.
"our gas scrubbers... doing something...." a very careful and scientific statement why not use some Ca(OH)2 pieces or CaCO3 rocks? should work a lot more efficiently i bet you could just beat up a piece of concrete with a hammer and use as-is one could even produce concrete pieces by making a thin layer concrete and breaking up with a hammer
"There is a slight tinge of yellow" @Explosions&fire would be so proud😂😂
@Extractions&ire you mean, explosions is supposed to be writing his thesis.
What's the backstory on the disgust for yellow? I haven't managed to find out exactly why he doesn't like it.
Yes
I highly suspect that the impurity in there is Titanium(IV) ions, as that Ti(V) complex ions are usually yellow to brownish-red color, and Ti(III) ion is purple. Also hydrochloric acid is normally produced in titanium-lined equipment, so titanium can be a very common contamination in the acid.
Yeah I think it is too. It's soluble in hydrochloric acid but not water, so when pH is increased it precipitates.
Love your videos, thanks for sharing! Never realized that distilling >20% HCl would just produce fumes at the beginning. Learned something new, thanks!
If you bubble the HCl-Gas from a heated impure 32 % acid through the destillated azeotropic one, you will get a higher concentrated pure acid.
The concentration of the distilled acid should be determined by tritration.
Hydrochloric acid with a concentration above 20 % should always be stored in labglassbottles under a red cap which is coated with PTFE. The PE bottles from the hardware store are not tight enough to hold back the HCl-gas during a longer storage. If you don't store the acid in very tight bottles, everything what is made of metal in the room in which you store the acid will heavily corrode soon...
For the same reason HCl shouldn't be used as a pool chemical: even very diluted with the pool water it will corrode the metal parts of the pool pump in direct contact much faster than more common supplies as sulfuric acid or sodium hydrogensulfate which I would recommend instead for adjusting the pH, because most metals are passivated against diluted sulfuric acid, but not against HCl.
Bubbling vapors from hot hcl is a poor way of generating hcl gas. Its azeotrope with water is 20%... So 80% of the vapor is water. A better solution is use a ported flask and a funnel with a stopcock. Put regular table salt into the flask and put sulfuric acid into the funnel, adjust the stopcock valve to slowly drip the acid onto the salt. Pure hcl gas will be generated this way. After its been going for a few seconds all of the air in the flask will be pushed out and you can run a tube from the port to your reactor to bubble 100% hcl into.... Hows the saying go.... Cleanliness is next to godliness 😇😎
@@idontknowmyfirstname69 Because HCl builds an azeotrop you definitly CAN drive out the gas from a hot CONCENTRATED hydrochlorid acid. Until its concentration reached 20 % only the gas and nearly no water will come over. If you bubble the gas in COOL 20 % destilled hydrochloric acid, you will get a pure AND contrateted acid! Surely you can also use NaCl and (if you are allowed to in your country...) conc. H2SO4 or easier available NaHSO4 by heating (I just made a video of this method), but why should we use three reagents, when one is also sufficient? 😉
@@experimental_chemistrynow i don't disagree with you but in essence this is a simple distillation we are discussing. You were absolutely right but an actual practice when you have a mixture of two liquids in a solution and distilling the one off of the other when both of their individual boiling temperatures are that close you almost always tend to bring a little bit of one with the other even before it reaches its Asian trope. Personally I avoid distilling HCL it is a god-awful gas that I have got alone full of once and I intend to never again but I have found this short of using reflux column doing a fractional distillation whether I'm distilling ethanol from water or nitric acid from water for HCL from water I found that it always brings a little bit with it even before it hits your true now as far as concentrations go around here it's kind of hit and miss a lot of the products aren't labeled some are as high as 3132% concentration others are 18 to 20% concentration most of which all have organic buffers of some kind some even have detergents in them most won't even tell you what their percentage of concentration is on the bottle you have to look up the data safety sheet I prefer not to leave anything to chance
@@idontknowmyfirstname69 I guess you are principally right, too. It's was just an idea to keep things simple also in increasing the concentration. And never forget to use an inverted funnel when bubbling HCl in liquids containing water... 😉
I tried my method years ago just for fun without any need: in my country you can get relatively pure AND stable concentrated hydrochloric acid in every hardwarestore.
It tended to have 24 or 32 % HCl and that's really true - I have tested it by titration. You must have just one thing in focus: don't buy it when it looks yellow. There are enough stores that sell good colourless stuff... A so heavy contaminated acid like Harry's I've never seen here...
I agree with you on HCl bottles leaking acid vapor that will rust every bit of steel or iron in a room.
You could also warm it up to drive HCl gas out and bubble it to distilled water. After a while azeotropic consentration is reached and you'll get it out. You can also bubble HCl gas through something like previous azeotropic to get higher consentration. Just make sure to avoid suckback when dealing with gas. Colder water helps here too.
Of course, if you don't need it stronger than 20% and storage volume is no issue, your methos is simpler.
The excess HCl gas can be absorbed in the distillate if you cool the receiver flask with ice. Major impurity in crude HCl is iron and calcium (I presume, but it depends on source)
@@janami-dharmam That should work too and be so simple. Fpr getting 16% solution it is enough to just put in a closed space open beaker of 32% and another beaker with distilled water. At same temp. you'll get 50/50 distribution of hcl to similar amount of water.
Very high solubility of HCl gives you so many unusual options.
@@hoggif this too is a form of distillation and works best if (i) air is removed first and (ii) both the vessels are kept on a metal block so that isothermal condition is maintained.
@@janami-dharmam I would not consider a deistillation when it is about dissolved gas escaping or evaporation without boiling.
It would be mo effective if HCl source is how (high vapor pressure) and receiver cold (lower vapor pressure and gases dissolve more).
Similar temperature is not optimal but temperature difference is often difficult to maintain for a long period.
@@hoggif You forgot the density of hydrochloric acid. 1 ml isn't 1 g. 32 % has a d. of 1,16 g/l, 16 % 1,08 g/l. So you have got to take a smaller volume, if you want to get the correct concentration. Acid isn't moonshine, whose concentration is messured in vol. ;-)
Looking forward to your results on the lithium batteries. Ive gave it a go a couple of times this last year and my biggest result has been a large excess of frustration... I think any solution that may be found is really gonna be out of left field 😒
Yes, an excess of frustration also describes exactly what I’ve experienced, haha.
6:57 "and we will put this other 250ml in..." (without rinsing the apparatus)
Grandpa called that: "sloppin' back!"
Awesome vide I’m so glad I found this channel.
Feel like a kid in a candy store
Great effort.
I think i would not put as much water in. If the concentration was lower than expected, you might have excess water coming over with the azeotrope. Using a little less water (10% ?) might force some HCl to the scrubber, but will also hit the 20% mark and perhaps a little higher than that in the collection flask
Do two batches and put the first in the scrubber, that'll raise the concentration rather than wasting the excess HCl.
I found your channel a few days ago. In the videos of you making sodium hydroxide, you say several times, that you generate hydrogen and chlorine gas. Now I want to see you building a collector for these, then combining these gases so they can form HCl, then give the HCl contact to water ->>> boooom ->>> hydrochloric acid!!! Please! Can you do that, PLEASE?!
Thank you very much for your work done so far! I learned a lot!
yes, it can be done. That HCl is very pure.
And do it with a laser 😁
I've been planning on doing this for a while. However, the reaction between hydrogen and chlorine can be very dangerous and explosive if not performed properly, so I'm still working my way up to trying it. The full project will probably be a long while away, sorry.
@@ScrapScience
The 'very dangerous and explosive'-thing is the reason for the 'boooom' in my message. O:D
Don't worry, I'm patient!
to prevent risk of explosion, pack the mixing region with glass wool (free radical chain breaker) and use weak room light.
Good to see ay mate hope life treating you well
I really like your channel as a hobbyist
Your acid is still colourless ,the acid we get as toilet cleaners is yellow colour due to a dye tartrazine.
Speaking from experience here: the acid starts clear and yellows with either age,light or oxygen exposure.not sure what the cause is. Also rather than distilling a quicker way is get a coke bottle with a hose coming out the top, pour in some acid drop in a ball of Al foil and bubble fumes thru water.not 100% yeilds but quick and easy. I found peroxide caused a brown colour not red for me.and as stated below the hardware store bottles do leak and allow gas to escape causing everything around it to corrode. So always keep it outside
Again I'll say it. I'm speaking from experience your quoting literature. this is a hotly debated topic among hobby chemists and on paper H2 should be the product but in reality the rxn is so exothermic a massive amount of HCL gas is produced. I've never bothered to find out how much but Its a lot.again I'm speaking from experience. Go fill a bottle 1/4 full of 35%hcl drop in some Al foil and report back
@@ryans3074 reporting back, my dicks now stuck in a coke bottle... thanks.
A better way to get pure hydrochloric acid it's just set up a distillation using rock salt and dripping sulfuric acid on it when there is a little bit of liquid in the salt you turn on the heat to distill it over however you will get some distillate before that. You can add a little bit of water to the rock salt to expedite the reaction but it's not really necessary
And the concentration are well over 20% after purifying ?! Love that setupp great work! Greeting from Hungary Sopron
Have you tried the white bottle HCL from bunnings, they have labeled it as pool acid. It's supposed to be more pure so I don't know if it has the impurities that are in the black bottle.
As a matter of fact, the acid I use in this video is actually from the white bottles from Bunnings (I buy it in the 5 litre containers and then put some of it into this black bottle because it’s easier to pour from).
In my experience, there’s little to no difference between the two products (maybe the white bottles have slightly less iron, but it’s pretty much negligible).
@@ScrapScienceWe used the pool version to experiment with replacing the sulfuric acid with HCl in the carbon snake experiment... had to add heat using a hot plate and got a really odd foam instead of a "snake".
Done outdoors due to fumes.
Nice video, very good procedure, Thanks a lot @Scrap Science
What would happen if you were to distill thing acid at the 32% concentration? Did you just produce HCL fumes or what? Why did you need to dilute?
Yep, if you try to distill the 32% stuff, it will first give off a lot of HCl fumes (which will not condense) before the concentration will decrease to the azeotrope and distill properly.
I just find it easier to avoid dealing with the HCl generation, and skip straight to the azeotrope distillation. That way there’s not too much to worry about when capturing the excess gas.
@@ScrapScience yes, but if you put some plain distilled water in the flask, that HCl will happily dissolve in the solution and if you cool the flask you can get more than 20% conc
Why didn't you put any boiling chips? You are lucky the distillation was so tame. I strongly suggest using boiling chips because you mentioned that other distillations were not so tame as this one.
Could you specify what reducing agent introduced a purple color? I'm speculating that anthroquinone(which is involved in H2O2 production) formed complexes with iron in HCl which caused it to turn red
The purple colour I show here appeared after dissolving some pure gallium metal in the HCl. I've also seen the colour arise when adding aluminium, and some other reducing agents that I can't recall right now.
HCl should be stored in GLASS bottle with Teflon-sealed cap if you want any hope of maintaining the purity you made in the first place.
There are many plastics that don't react with HCl, so I don't really see why glass is necessary. Also, how could a small degree of exposure to air ruin the purity?
Love your videos man, keep it up!!
here in Australia you can buy swimming pool HCL used to adjust PH that is very clear in color. i don't know if there''s any impurity's you cant see
As a matter of fact, I'm in Australia too. And the swimming pool HCl you're talking about is exactly the acid I used in this video (I only store it in one of these black bottles because it's easier to pour from). There's definitely impurity in there, even if it's not visibly obvious.
Yes yes
I'm tired of yellow iron contaminated HCl
I get it that HCl in water has an azeotrope of 20.2%...
Therefore, the LIQUID output from your condensor will be at that strength.
However...
If you were to use 33% in your boiling flask, and you allowed your condensor output to bubble through the content of your azeotropic receiving flask *thereby re-absorbing HCl gas into the azeotrope), wouldn't you end up with something fairly close to your 33% source acid?
(Industrially, 33% HCl acid is produced by absorbing HCl gas into water until it's near saturation. There's many industrial processes that release HCl gas as a 'waste' product and this waste is used to make 33% HCl)
Correct.
I just didn't really want to deal with trying to dissolve HCl gas in water in this case. If things went wrong or the gas were improperly absorbed, it would present a pretty big issue.
If hcl solution is yellow it is because the pigment from sodium chromate, i think in some countries the law does not permit to sell hcl based house materials ithout coliring for ditinguishing for securities for children for exemple, i think so...
I think it's very unlikely that chromate would be added to a chemical that is designed to be used in pools. It's perfectly possible that the colour is added for the reason you've suggested though.
You could ad mgcl2 or cacl2 and this would break the azeotrope. That’s how I’ve made concentrated hcl.
You said you added water to dilute it before putting it in your heating mantle. Did you use tap water? If so, those "impurities" might not be from your hardware store hydrochloric acid; they might be from the water. I recommend using, at minimum, distilled water next time (or every time you need to add water to something) but you should really go for RO water (reverse osmosis water). RO water should/will have a TDS reading of below 5, distilled water till have a TDS of below 30-40 whereas tap water can have a TDS reading anywhere from 50 to 400+. My last house had TDS readings of around 300. I moved a few miles away and my TDS reading is now 80. Yet, when I boil water for a long time when cooking, I see the stuff on the sides of the pot that looks very similar to yours -- leading me to believe that some of those contaminants might be from the water.
You put down a black cloth over the table and this would look really professional!
Yeah, I like that idea!
Sounds like a plan.
I don't understand what's up with the Sodium Hydroxyde on the right side? what does it capture? do you trash it ? is it dangerous ? you had 275ml of 37% HCl acid, you add 225ml of water, but you will get 2x 250ml, of purified, but not concentrated, your acid concentration is reduced right?
The sodium hydroxide is just there to react with any acidic fumes that might make it out of the apparatus. If any acidic fumes were to escape, it would have prevented release into the atmosphere (and more importantly, my lungs).
Yes, the final product is reduced in concentration.
Why You just did not transfered the hydrogen chloride into new, clean water by dripping this acid on conc sulfuric acid and bubbling into that new water?
Because that reaction would be more difficult, require the use of sulfuric acid, and would not be a quantitative reaction. The direct distillation of hydrochloric acid is simpler, doesn't involve dealing with large amounts of hydrogen chloride gas, and has the capability of recovering virtually all of the initial acid (albeit at a lower concentration).
Using a more complex setup only to get a higher concentration in the end product just isn't really justified here, given how simple this was to perform.
Wouldnt it be easier to build an HCL generator and gas it through cold water? You can get fuming HCL acid.
The consumable reagents for an HCl generator are going to make that process significantly more expensive than simply distilling hydrochloric acid.
@@ScrapScience no certain I agree. Sodium bisulfate and table salt are both pretty inexpensive. The only other item needed is water.
Prices might be different for you, but I can get sodium bisulfate for about $7/kg. With a 100% yield in an HCl generator, 1 kg of sodium bisulfate can make about 300g of HCl gas, which translates to nearly a litre of concentrated HCl. As a result, this kind of generator would make concentrated HCl at a price of $7 per litre (neglecting the price of sodium chloride), which is being generous.
Since I can buy concentrated HCl directly at around half that price, it's definitely simpler for me to just use this distillation method.
That might just be for me though. Prices of these chemicals are rather different depending on location.
Thanks for the video.
Shouldn’t you be always adding acid to water and not water to acid?
This is a common rule, but not one that actually applies under many cases.
The 'always add acid to water' rule is only important when an acid has a highly exothermic reaction upon dissolution in water. The reason we pour the acid into water in these cases is because the high heat capacity of water is capable of absorbing the heat released, and doing it the other way around would cause the mixture to heat up considerably (possibly boiling and spraying everywhere). This is most important when working with concentrated sulfuric acid or nitric acid, since they release a lot of heat when mixed with water.
In the case of concentrated hydrochloric acid however, not much heat is released when diluted in water, and the heat capacity of the acid is rather high anyway (since it is already comprised of ~70% water). As such, the 'always add acid to water' rule just doesn't apply at all in this case, and there are no issues associated with adding water to the acid.
@@ScrapScience I did wonder if the hardware store bought Hydrochloric was concentrated enough to be a problem with the addition of water. I use it almost everyday at my workshop to remove dross and mill scale from plasma cut steel, I usually further dilute it 20% of volume.
At that strength, would you consider short term skin contact to be hazardous, probably more over long term? I quite often grab something without gloves and sure if you have a cut or other skin injury it’s not pleasant and I would typically rinse the exposed skin in a few seconds and it’s never caused any acute or chronic skin issues that I’m aware of and I can’t find anything online about it, obviously nobody is promoting washing in acid solutions for some reason 😂
Getting acid on your skin and then thoroughly washing it off in a matter of seconds will leave no long term effects. The worst thing that could happen is that your skin might get a bit dry for a while. It's always a good idea to wear gloves though. Long term contact and any exposure involving your eyes is a completely different story however.
Thankd Harru
I wanted to ask you something as your expertise is in electrochemistry and I don’t know a lot about it. I have planned to make some mercury metal from a solution of mercury(II) sulfate in hydrochloric acid. Would it be possible to just put two electrodes into solution and to run a current trough it? If so what kind of electrodes should be used?
Woah, electrochemistry with mercury, I'll look forward to seeing it!
Honestly, I've never worked with mercury in electrochemistry, nor have I even worked with it at all (aside from one time in high school when my friend and I broke open 100 tilt switches to extract the metal, but that's another story). As a result, I'm not going to be able to give you any practical knowledge here, but nonetheless, there are a few things I'm able to tell you before you start:
1) Yes, I would imagine that electrolysis of any mercury(II) solution would give you mercury on the cathode. Since the oxidation states of mercury are (relatively) simple, and the reduction potential is very high, there's not much that would prevent this from occurring.
2) For your electrodes, You've got different options to pick for your cathode and anode. Since your goal is to make metallic mercury, I assume you'll probably want a cathode which won't be amalgamated by the mercury as it forms. As you might guess, iron is probably a good choice here, though it does have a very low overpotential for hydrogen generation, especially in acidic conditions, which may prevent mercury from being formed (this is very unlikely, but a possible issue). If iron doesn't work, copper should be a good choice, though it will slowly be amalgamated of course. Graphite/carbon may also be a good option.
As for your anode, since you're doing this in an acidic solution containing chloride ions, there's only one choice for an anode that won't passivate or contaminate your solution. This is graphite or carbon. It will likely disintegrate and fill your solution with graphite dust as you electrolyse, but there will be no chemical contamination introduced to either your solution or your metallic product, so in my opinion, it's the only valid choice.
3) As a result of electrolysing an acidic solution containing chloride ions, you're going to generate chlorine gas on the graphite anode. Obviously it's nothing you can't deal with, but be prepared to generate a lot of it as a by-product of the reaction.
4) A much bigger safety concern than the generation of chlorine is the generation of aerosolised solution. Since you're generating chlorine on the anode, you'll get the gas coming off the electrode in the form of microbubbles (a common thing to happen in electrolysis reactions), which will throw invisibly small droplets of solution EVERYWHERE. Seriously, it's quite amazing how far this aerosol can travel. From what I've seen of your videos, you appreciate safety measures to a high extent, and I'm sure you'll agree with me when I say that an aerosol of mercury solution would be my absolute worst nightmare!
You're probably planning on doing this anyway, but it is essential to perform the reaction in some kind of semi-contained vessel, lest you fill the air with mercury salts. This might be a tricky thing to do since your vessel will probably fill with chlorine as you perform the reaction, but maybe something like Nurdrage's 'electrolysis box' project might work well (possibly with the addition of a constant airflow through it, with some kind of filter to catch the aerosol?).
5) Another thing to remember is that if you're going to use a cathode like iron or copper, it's important to never leave the electrodes in the solution while they're unconnected to your power supply. As you're aware from your 'Recycling mercury from Hg containing solution' video, these metals will replace the mercury in solution when they're not cathodically protected by the voltage you apply, and will contaminate your solution if you turn the power off.
6) I find this unlikely, but it's entirely possible that you might make mercury(I) ions as a by-product of the cathode reaction. I'm not sure what would happen here, since I'm unaware of general mercury chemistry, but maybe mercurous chloride would precipitate? Or maybe mercury(I) ions are unstable in acidic conditions, I don't know. Just be aware that if mercury(I) ions are at all stable in your solution, there's a chance they might be made instead of metallic mercury.
7) If you find that your electrolysis process just doesn't make any mercury at all, and instead makes hydrogen on the cathode, it might be because your solution is too acidic, or some kind of ligand effect is interfering with the reduction of the mercury (Does mercury exist in some stange complex here? Again I'm not sure what's happening with the mercury chemistry). I find it extremely unlikely, but if you don't see any mercury being made, these issues are likely to be the cause. Not really sure how you'd fix these issues, so it's best to just hope they don't happen.
8) The anode reaction will remove chloride ions from solution. Will this possibly decrease the solubility of mercury sulfate as time goes on? You'd definitely know more than me in this regard, so I'll leave the implications of this one to you.
9) Finally, if you want your mercury product to be pure, ensure that there are NO other metallic ions in solution. Mercury has quite an amazing electrochemical ability to reduce pretty much any metallic ion when used as a cathode. Seriously, even if you have sodium ions in solution, the mercury you make on the cathode will allow for the generation of sodium metal on the electrode surface, and you'll end up with a mercury-sodium amalgam. Similar stories follow for pretty much every single other metallic ion, so avoid them all if you can.
I feel like I got a little carried away there, and you probably know most of these things already, but that's pretty much all I have to say. Hope it helps, and I wish you the best of luck with your mercury extraction!
only pour Zn or Al or Mg powder into Hg solution, so the Hg precipitate, no energy, no electrochemistry, just ionic interchange.
SOLUBILITY RULES:
All Nitrates are soluble
All chlorides are soluble, except Ag2Cl2, HgCl, PbCl2*; *it is a little bit soluble
Clean product but just 20% concentration?
How concentrated is your purified stuff
Around 20%. Same as the concentration we diluted it to at the start.
amazing video
is there other ways of purifying hydrochloric acid without distillation for exemple Can I purify hydrochloric acid from iron impurities by putting distilled water in a bottle and the hydrochloric acid full of impurities in another bottle and attaching them to a tube and leaving them for two weeks and the pure hydrochloric acid will dissolve in the bottle in which is in distilled water ,is it possible and sorry for my weak english
Yeah, that's possible if you've got the time. I'm not sure what kind of concentration you'll get though (it will probably depend on the relative volumes of the acid/water you start with).
@@ScrapScience So I think if i start with a 30% concentration of HCl full of impurities and another bottle is just distilled water and the HCl gas will dissolve in this distilled water, the concentration will be 15% in the distilled water
Is that how it will be?
What about the old adage "do as you aught'er , add acid to water"?
The 'always add acid to water' rule only really applies when an acid has a highly exothermic reaction upon dissolution in water. The reason we pour the acid into water in these cases is because the high heat capacity of water is capable of absorbing the heat released, and doing it the other way around would cause the mixture to heat up considerably (possibly boiling and spraying everywhere). This is most important when working with concentrated sulfuric acid or nitric acid, since they release a lot of heat when mixed with water.
In the case of concentrated hydrochloric acid however, not much heat is released when diluted in water, and the heat capacity of the acid is rather high anyway (since it is already comprised of ~70% water). As such, the 'always add acid to water' rule just doesn't apply in this case, and there are no issues associated with adding water to the acid.
Gold extraction video please
I wish there was a simpler way to purify acid
The only hydrochloric acid I can get is a horrible tile cleaner that is ok for things like generating chlorine and other gases, but it has a detergent or something that makes it foam and sodium sulphate and a blue pigment
It's horrible basically, added too much idk, carbonate? well now your corrosive acid is all over your bench!
It's stubborn to clean it out of anything because it's just a screw you, some bubbles will aways stay, it's horrible
If I could simultaneously concentrate it more and purify it, it would be amazing
Do you have a video on your lithium extraction process? I am currently attempting the same. And hoping to salvage the HCL afterwards for other projects
It didn't work, but yeah, I have a whole playlist:
czcams.com/play/PL-HKUYpPsonlaTxeaZi439nTqOcVEuVLF.html&si=uyLnPxxIRHjZ59QE
@@ScrapScience thanks I’ll check it out
Curious why set up the acid as azeo when it will happen naturally during the distillation...?
If we left it at 32% concentration, the first stage of the distillation would first release HCl as a gas which would not condense. It's not too hard to collect the gaseous HCl and redissolve it back into water, but it's just simpler to skip that part by distilling the azeotrope directly.
Could you get the hydrochloric acid gas condensed into the water too to get mor Konzentration? Or fraction destill it. So much los
I could have, but this is just easier honestly. We don't lose any of the acid, we don't have to deal with any significant amounts of HCl gas, and having the acid in a slightly diluted form isn't really a big deal for hydrochloric acid.
Hi my Australian friend sorry to bother but I need your help
I made the Birkeland-Edye reactor with timer airpump (30s on 3min off) in three minutes the chamber get nice red color then the pump turn on to react the gas with distilled water (50ml(grams) of distilled water ) it's reacts violently with water and turn to steam which condense inside the plastic bottle return to the water.
in the first 3 hours I weighted the water it was 52.8grams after 12 hours it was only 53.2 grams Idk what's happened (I smelled strong NO2 gas in the room I turned off the reactor And turn on the fan to blow out the gases).
I know that the gas escape from the water some how is it because of the PH?
Does I am missing something? Can you explain please (any suggestions to make the gas dissolve more in the water(like sodium bicarbonate)
Should I separate the steam from the water I think the steam produced from the reaction is concentred nitric acid correct me if I'm wrong.
N thanks for your help I really appreciate it.
I can't really diagnose the problem with the information you've given, but the most likely reason you're losing your product is because you're not keeping it cold.
You need an ice bath for your collection flask, since nitrogen oxides will dissolve in water much better at low temperatures. Allowing your solution to reach boiling temperatures will drastically diminish your yield, and cause you to lose lots of your product.
@@ScrapScience thanks for replying
What kind of information you want to know. I can give you any information. But the flask doesn't get very hot it's about 25~30C*.
Do you think it's because of the PH
I mean I can't make concentred nitric acid just by babbling NO2 gas in water!?
It should be a limit for dissolving the gas(NO2) in water (10%or 20 or more 🤔) before the gas start running out of the nitric acid ( how much%of nitric acid I can reach in 100ml of water just by bubbling NO2 in it. If you can help me with that please so I can change the water each time to prevent losing NO2 gas. Thanks alot
Hi, I have a bit of a random chemistry question if you or anyone can answer.
I want to react silver tungstate with cesium chloride to produce cesium tungstate. How do I do this considering the ag2wo4 is insoluble in water. It is soluble in hno3, nh3 or potassium cyanide but I'm not sure if that helps me.
Thanks
Tom
Be extremely careful if you are even thinking of working with potassium cyanide it and solutions of it in water are highly toxic and rapidly blocks the ability of cells in the human body to intake oxygen. Potassium cyanide is also a tightly restricted chemical in most areas and countries. Please if you handle potassium cyanide be extremely careful with it. Ammonia gas is a toxic and corrosive gas and can burn holes in the lungs if large amounts are inhaled so please also be extremely careful handling ammonia gas
@@craigpater6278 I'm okay with ammonia, think I'll avoid KCN for now
@@SodiumInteresting yes I'm not necessarily saying that you should avoid working with ammonia gas or potassium cyanide or any other highly toxic chemicals, I'm simply saying if you do choose to do so just be very careful and use appropriate safety gear and proper safety procedures, practices and protocols
What is the final concentration of acid?
20%. I explain the azeotrope at around 1:51.
Hello is it possible to make no2 from taser / small electric plasma?
Yes, but the efficiency will probably be terrible, and a taser isn’t built to strike an arc from long periods of time.
The easiest way to make nitrogen oxides including nitrogen dioxide is to react concentrated nitric acid and copper metal turnings or small pieces of copper metal like copper coins. But be extremely careful concentrated nitric acid is highly corrosive and is a strong oxidising agent and nitrogen dioxide is a toxic gas
If we connect a 12V 20A power supply with a 5V 40A power supply in series connection..
What will be the output voltage and current?!?!
BTW love your vids!! You are very extraordinary and have unique ideas unlike some other cliche "Sodium in water" youtubers!!!!
17 volt 20.amps
If you achieve that, 340 watts... I hope what ever you're doing is big enough to handle the heat
@@procactus9109 Can you please givee me an explanation on how you measured it out!!!
Also will this type of series connection damage any of the power supplies??
@@heisenbergstayouttamyterri1508 the voltage is simple added. The max current is the lowest current of the power supplies... Both have to be electrically isolated, ie. No common ground.. this means you can't use 5 and 12v from a single PC supply....
No damage will occur if both outputs are isolated and you don't over shoot current demand. It's a bit dodgy but will work.
@@procactus9109 Yes, I'm tryin' to say that I am using two different power supplies with different voltage and current!!!
Also can a 5V 60Amp power supply be good enough for persulfate cell???
Why are you adding water TO acid? Especially when you mention it is concentrated. It's chemistry BASICS
The 'always add acid to water' rule only really applies when an acid has a highly exothermic reaction upon dissolution in water. The reason we pour the acid into water in these cases is because the high heat capacity of water is capable of absorbing the heat released, and doing it the other way around would cause the mixture to heat up considerably (possibly boiling and spraying everywhere). This is most important when working with concentrated sulfuric acid or nitric acid, since they release a lot of heat when mixed with water.
In the case of concentrated hydrochloric acid however, not much heat is released when diluted in water, and the heat capacity of the acid is rather high anyway (since it is already comprised of ~70% water). As such, the 'always add acid to water' rule just doesn't apply in this case, and there are no issues associated with adding water to the acid.
Like many things, knowledge of 'basic chemistry' will teach you simple rules, but with knowedge of intermediate or advanced chemistry, you'll understand when these rules do and don't apply.
Electrolysis is by far the easiest and most pure way you just need 24 volts and 27 amps DC. Ripple free.
How are you suggesting to make hydrochloric acid? As far as I know, the methods of electrolytic production are difficult and require a rather complex (and somewhat dangerous) setup.
Why does it have to be ripple free? Where do I get a ripple free 27 amp source at 24 volts ?
Hmm yes hardware store hcl here is a very pure sample just 31.45 percent HCl. Ex and fire said his hcl wasn't pure.
32%!? the best we get here is 20%
plus is clear, dayum
Iron itself is redox
There is an even easier way to do it and with out any glass.
!!Whaaaaaaaat?!!
What was the concentration of impure acid and pure acid
Impure = 32%
Pure ~= 20%
@@ScrapScience means u lost HCl in terms of concentration . Your HCl became pure but it became a lot dilute than before
Correct
do you sell calories?
Ever since I watched you screw up you're iodine making and bromine video, the wrong way yet still go on like you're a real chemist, i just cannot take you're videos seriously 😂!!!
I love Hydrochloric acid, Nitric acid, Phosphoric asid, urea/uric acid and Hydrazine hydrate.
Anyone want to guess what and why all these mentioned chemical mixture is used for?
Curious how man know but no googling
Can you please do a gold extraction from a bvg chip that has gold and silver inside I scrap gold but would love to see it on a professional level please if that’s ok. 1 BVG Computer chip scrapped for free or I can provide you with 10. I collect to extract my self.
Here before Ohio contaminates the us water supply even more
I hope Ohio can purify the water
Damn man, how cheap are you? Can you not afford hcl from Amazon or Ebay? 😢😢
Have you considered the fact that I might be doing this because I find it fun?
Never forget boiling stones :) it can go very bad really quickly. Your where lucky this time.
You caluanie
"our gas scrubbers... doing something...."
a very careful and scientific statement
why not use some Ca(OH)2 pieces or CaCO3 rocks? should work a lot more efficiently
i bet you could just beat up a piece of concrete with a hammer and use as-is
one could even produce concrete pieces by making a thin layer concrete and breaking up with a hammer