Resin printing is not nearly as bad as he makes it out to be. Plus you can get a wash and cure station that makes cleaning way easy. I literally put a part directly from the build plate into the wash and cure, and wash it for 1.5mins, then take it out dry it, cure it for 3 minutes and it's done. It takes maybe 6 minutes to do the entire process from when I open the 3d printer lid to having my part done. You don't need to sand parts unless you put tons of supports or need something perfect. 99% of the time I don't sand anything and it's fine. Any spot that doesn't have supports generally looks perfect straight out of the printer. As long as you put the supports on the back of your prints you'll never need to sand. It's not that messy either, wear gloves and put a mat down on your work area that you can wipe off resin if it drips and you're fine. This video will turn people off from resin printing when it's not hard to do at all once you get a rhythm.
I came to some conclusions after some days in searching the web and YT (included this good video). This is just what I think. Hope this can help. FDM have 2 major safety concerns: 1) hot temperature of the nozzle (which is very easy to manage) 2) VOC (which you can get rid off if you use an enclosure + expulsion vacuum fan). With PLA all risks are tremendously lowered, with ABS you have to work only in a very well ventilated space with a good enclosure and hepa + carbon filters. Resin printers (SLA/DLP/etc) use chemicals. UV resin are made of nano particles, part of them are volatiles (HEPA + cabon filters cannot block them), part VOC (i.e. micro particles which probably can be blocked by HEPA and carbon filters). Uncured resin is toxic for environment and for humans (especially lung, eyes, skin) Exhausted IPA (which is itself an aggressive chemical) has to be handled with extreme care and attention for the environment (which I really think few people do). Some say that cured resin is safe, I'm not 100% sure of it. In fact if you look at operational instructions by producers of printers and some smart tutorial you will find that it's suggested to not cure for too long printed objects in a way they cannot became too brittle.... Some others say that after a certain time resin 3d printed object meld... Which could mean that if you don't cure completely the objects, then inside a portion of resin is still liquid (and extremely toxic). When you touch the object for finishing it could be hazardous, still some nano particles can flow through the air. For what I found there's not many scientific studies about safety with 3d printers but the most important researches are and will be on resin. One university (maybe in California, I don't remember) got 100% toxicity of uncured resin for water creatures (100% of fish embryos died). But the worst aspect is 87% of toxicity for cured resin objects! (they put some cured objects in a vat with water and fish embryos and the most of them died in a couple of days....) That said, I'm really really sorry for this situation. Resin printers are wayyyyyy better than FDM in terms of render, accuracy, smoothness... I had for few days a small DLP resin printer and also this technology bring me to results impossible to get with FDM. I gave back the printer an all the stuff because a couple o years ago I had a blood cancer and my doctor recommends to avoid chemicals. I still use a budget FDM printer just for hobby, only with PLA + enclosure + vacuum + filters. In a beautiful world resin and FDM should work together. FDM is very good for big objects, for simple objects, for some mechanical objects and for making mold for composites. FDM are relatively slow and very cheap to use. Resin renders fantastically, every print is relatively much expensive than FDM. It's generally way faster than FDM (especially DLP). Sorry for the big size of this message, I spent a lot of time for getting some realiable info (reliable = scientifically trustable and not sponsored...) Hope it helps, hope technology will offer us very soon a true eco-resin
@@carlfogarthy6508as far as safety of cured parts: I don't think as long as you're using a reputable brand that it is much of a concern. Yeah don't make drinking cups out of it, but it's relatively inert once the photoinitiators have done their job. You have to remember: many personalized medical plastics are made with resin 3d printing. Dental resin for things like Invisalign, retainers, dentures, etc. and those go in your mouth. Medical plastics are of course regulated by the FDA so I would assume a decent amount of safety. Obviously hobby resins aren't the same thing, but the photoinitiators are very similar. Yes the uncured resin is likely very toxic. But I wouldn't panic much about cured parts.
I enjoy painting busts and miniatures so resin was an easy choice. I have seen some pretty incredible quality from FDM printers but they are at best slightly worse than the worst resin printer and the amount of black magic you have to do to get those kinds of results is intense. With a resin printer you pretty much level your build plate one time and then you don't have to do it again unless you replace your fep or drop the plate on the ground. The mess is real with resin though. You need to have your work space dialed in quite well and there are a lot of random things that you didn't think you needed that you end up having to buy. My mars 2 pro was about $250 but I ended up spending close to $650 with all of the other random shit I had to buy.... funnels, trays, washing station, IPA, microfiber cloths, squeegees, strainers for the resin, gloves, photochemical bottles to store mixes of resin, spray bottles... etc. Its a lot of stuff! And some of these things are recurring costs as mentioned in the video. Gloves, Resin and IPA specifically are the three big ones. Resin has some pretty unfortunate mechanical properties too. Its much more brittle than PLA although I found some sunlu nilon-like resin that is incredible... but still nowhere near the flexibility and durability of PLA... making mechanical parts out of resin is much more difficult simply because of those material properties. So I would say if you're interested in making mechanisms or parts that are going to have to take a lot of punishment and you don't need crazy detail then you should go with a filament printer. If you are making art pieces then resin is a no brainer. Edit: one thing I didn't mention is the size constraints. Even the smallest fdm printers have larger build volume than the majority of resin printers. This has actually been a big deal for me over the years. I upgraded my mars 2 pro to a Saturn S just to get that bigger build space. Fdm has resin beat in this regard by a long shot. There were many times when looking at cool stuff to print with my mars 2 pro that I ran into the issue of not enough build space. This is also something you should consider when you're weighing your options. It seems like in this entire post I've seemed to be shitting on resin printers quite a bit. That's probably true... Let's talk about the pros of resin printers. The first I've already talked about which is the print quality. It's way better by a long way.... Second is print time. Even the largest items (or multiple items) are going to top out around 9-12 hours depending on your settings with a resin printer. A build plate full of 12 miniatures on my Saturn S is going to take around 3 hours. Third is failures. Both Fdm and resin printers fail frequently. Anyone who's used an Fdm printer has come home to a spaghetti mess of filament. Resin failures are much less catastrophic. Because of the way resin printers work you're not going to be wasting a bunch of material when a print fails. Of course the already printed material will be a right off but you won't be burning half a spool on a failure. It's actually way more forgiving with resin. Fourth is setup. Once you have your machine calibrated for your resin of choice there's very little tweaking necessary from one print to another.
Thank you for this! You answered all the questions I had about UV resin printing. I want one, but I don't have the time... so for now my fillament will have to continue to do the job.
4:20 "you can cause damage to your skin" It is much more nefarious than that. That stuff can damage your nervous system and can lead to serious disorders.
Yeah, but thats if yuo drink the resin...i think if yuo are a normal guy, there is no problem , as an example yuo have a kitchen that can burn yuo, but yuo use evreyday
@@noway8233 No bro, it is all about prolonged exposure. If you use that shit daily you should handle it with a mask and filter. Not just if you drink it.
Dude I love that "ART IS NOT A CRIME" poster back there. Really hits home with me because my passion is making sports art (can't sell it sadly) so pretty much for free fun at this point.
Bro I wait every day and check back while I’m watching ur house vids over and over or watching old vids I look to see if you have uploaded I makes my day
FDM printers can be pretty precise, especially with very thin layers. The problem is the print time, which explodes as shown in the video. I still think I'll go for a Prusa i3 next (and maybe a budget SLA later for some miniatures) - those things are pretty straightforward and not as messy, and I still have more than enough filament lying around.
Super interesting video. I won't be purchasing a printer but honestly super interesting to hear the similarities and differences. I learnt something and that's the main goal.
I’m ready to pull the trigger on my first set up and I’m so glad to have watched this. THANKYOU. For my needs a filament printer will be sufficient. Was about to commit to an entry level resin printer on Amazon.
I just bought a UV resin printer before i saw this video, but i really do not mind all the work involved. It makes you closer to the item you are creating since you have several steps after its made.
Can we just appreciate how well Dan presents and talks to us, so professional and I feel like a friend is talking to me. Wow Dan I want to have presentation skills like this.
I know I'm late, but there was a bunch of wrong data in the video, so I wouldn't call it professionals. He said, that its hard to discern which one is safer. NO ITS NOT. Filament is a 100% more safe. first of all, if you are touching the nozzle of a fillament printer, you SHOULD NOT BE 3D printing at all because its like puting your hands inside an working oven. If you ever touch the resin without gloves, you must immediately wash it off, without washing it into the sink. Resin also have vapors, which are 10 times more dangerous than fillement vapors. So yeah, he totally underestimated the safety side
I currently have a filament printer that I love using, but am looking into a resin printer for the smaller detailed pieces. This video showed me a lot of stuff I didn't know about resin printers yet so thank you! =D
nice video. bed leveling is one of the most annoying things i had to do. but my 3d printer(maker select v2 ) is old so maybe 2022 has newer better filament printing. Was nice to know that resin has way more post processing, cause if there is one thing i hate more than bed leveling... its post processing. So i guess ill stick with a filament for my next printer! thanks!
Honestly he made it seem more hassle than it is. Water wash resin has changed the game. Dunk it in a bucket and set it by the sun, and done. The speed and quality are unrivaled.
Thanks so much for the vid I was trying to decide on which of the two to go with and while resin was my original choice all the extra steps and cost isn't something I'm to interested in aswell as possible smell my family would hate it and be telling me something I can already tell so looks like I'm going with Filament
Now I'm sure I am going to get a filament printer I only want to print a few things as a hobby and I can't afford the resin and all the needed items to go with it. Thank you for this video. 😀
Thank you sir. I am just getting into 3D printing to mod my warhammer miniatures and this video definitely helped answer several of my questions and helped me choose what 3D printer to go with.
I have both. Love resin printing for it's detail. Hate it for it's cost per size (to even approach the size of an fdm printer, you're spending 10x as much money). And (i know this is a personal problem), i live in an RV. No way in hell i could use a resin printer in here! So it stays in the garage at the other end of the property (2 acres away). Where as my fdm can sit quite happily right on my desk in the rv. PLA, and PETG are both non-toxic to print indoors. Plus the FDM printer is just fun to watch! I like being able to modify my machines to make them more unique, or better functioning. This is something you can't really do to a resin printer. But again, like i said, i love the AMAZING detail of the resin printer.
Your comment about where you can use you fdm answered my query. I have a limited space in my bedroom for crafting and was worried about the odor. Thank you
I highly recommend the semiclear Eco Resin, it doesnt really smell much at all and with the Green Translucent resin Ive had a lot of really great success... the clear Resin, not so much, but oh well...
Answered every question I had and then some! I think I'm leaning toward resin as the majority of things I'd print would be small, and I'd like quality over quantity.
5:35 abs off gasses styrene that have to be ventilated outdoors. Both printers can be placed in an enclosure and vented outdoors to mitigate smells and fumes
Cheers for the insights! I was pondering if I could enter this hobby but it seems too complicated (as in the process + timing) for me right now. I didn't know resin required all these extra steps!
I know, right! I was about to purchase a Creality resin printer but THANK GOD I watched this video. I also didn’t know that resin required all these steps. Waaaaaay too complicated of a hobby for my liking.
@@techforever1970 Yup and the fact that it's also messy I live in a appartement so I don't have any place where I can do this hobby (like a garage). Before this video, I would have thought that I just needed to "cut & trim" the object after it's done being printed.
It's not nearly as bad as he makes it out to be. Plus you can get a wash and cure station that makes cleaning way easy. I literally put a part directly from the build plate into the wash and cure, and wash it for 1.5mins, then take it out dry it, cure it for 3 minutes and it's done. It takes maybe 6 minutes to do the entire process from when I open the 3d printer lid to having my part done. You don't need to sand parts unless you put tons of supports or need something perfect. 99% of the time I don't sand anything and it's fine.
Just got started with FDM printing. I'm still currently amazed at the quality and details of the minis I have printed and I'm not even doing it on crazy tight settings yet. I also like that I can print stuff that has practical applications. I haven't seen too many shelf supports made out of resin yet.
I have both. You think your minis look amazing in fdm then you print them in resin and you realize it’s not even a contest. Kinda how you think your tv looks great then you see your tv next to an oled model at the store.
@@Bossmodegoat 3 months later I very much get that, lol. Getting into resin isn't an option at this point for me, but as long as I pick models that work with my Ender's strengths its pretty good. If I try something too detailed its doesn't go well. I look at it and think "Is that a cyborg or a guy who is half booger? "
@@nerdfatha thanks for sharing. I'm looking at both for the holidays and I just want to print some basic miniatures and scatter terrain/details, so I'm leaning a little more towards FDM. Resin sounds awesome, but for the cleanup and material cost it might not make sense for me lol. I still play most of my games on 1080p so I think I can live with less detail.
There are water soluble Uv resign and the uv resign can be equal in price but both cost about the same overall if your smart with it and it’s just all up to preference
Question: Not sure if my previous Question came through. You present the Anycubic. I just bought one. However, I had no real idea what I was getting into. I don't have the right space for the Wash and Cure process. I am considering the Anycubic Wash & Cure Station (runs around a couple hundred additional dollars). Do you use it? Or do you do the wash and cure manually like shown in your video? What do you think about purchasing this station? How much different and safer does it become?
So mold making, say for automotive parts, resin would be the best bet due to its smooth and flat final finish. But its just a lot messier and many steps involved. In the end, its the quality i am after. I appreciate your video!
To save money I purchased a Elegoo Saturn for small and high detail parts I'm researching a filament printer for large parts that don't need the high details and will merge the parts. Your right resin is soooooo expensive compared to filament printing especially when you buy the better resins even then I buy the good stuff to blend like the flexible and ABS like I never use the $70-$100 per 1000ml resins alone.
Still staying with filament.....just bought 4 nice size spools of different color filament for 24$ on Amazon for my Weefun Mini 3D. There was some initial setup, no heating problems,and no smell. For what I'm making it's fine, small figures and keychains.
You didnt metion the strength aspect of it. Filament is generally stronger right? Which could be using for making more mechanical things rather than miniatures
Im trying to do 1:60 scale war dioramas. I figure UV can do the little soldiers fine (at 1:60 scale theyre an inch high) can filament accomplish that well?
Excellent video. I've had a filament printer for a week or so but ive seen how good resin printers are. I'll probably hold off for a while due to costs.
Depending what you want to print (size and detail), a resin printer could be expensive as hell, or cheap. I have a $100ish printer I do mostly terrain on, a $600 for my detailed tabletop minis, then a $1200 big boy for the larger models and huge terrain
Aside from part quality, the other thing resin has going for it is strength uniformity in every direction. Filament print layers separate way too easily under load when used mechanically.
I'm honestly only intrested in resin because the filament deck boxes i had printed by a friend started to sheer at the layer lines in the first handful of months. Thry don't go through a lot of mechanical stress, but apparently enough on the print lines to breat full layers off
I think there are a few misunderstandings here, the biggest which he didn't clarify is, what each printer does. Both have their positives and negatives. FDM is designed with more structure in mind, but I'm not saying it can't do fine detail. It can with the right adjustments. But far better for structures and strength. On the other hand SLA or resin printers can do high detail but tend to be more fragile. But! It can do structures, but again it's a pain. FDM can do miniatures of people with mods, like showing down print speed, changing the head to. 2 etc.... but it's not practical. SLA is the boss with miniatures, but cleaning can be a pain. So what is similar between the 2? Both need to have pre & post work done. Print similar, but that's where it ends. Everything else is liquid vs solid. After you do SLA a few times you're good at it. Just like FDM. So don't sweat what he's saying. You want to do SLA? Go do it. It's not that expensive 500 will set you up. For a good FDM it's going to be 500. Or if you're not sure get a refurbished or used. It's as easy as that. Have fun!
I use both FDM and resin printers and think you did a great job of explaining the pro's and cons. For me, if quality matters it's resin, for bigger prints and just trying out stuff it's FDM (because it's cheap like you say) I wish I could throw thousands at a big resin printer like you have 😁 Cheers!
I'm pretty sure the resin can get much more detail but I personally don't want to handle the resin and the process needed for both the printer and the print so I will go filament when I buy a 3D printer
You just talked me out of this completely. 😂
haha me too
Same!
Same
Why????
Yeah indeed... printing on FDM for many years had me wondering ir I should give resin a go... looks like I can wait on it a bit more.
Resin printing is not nearly as bad as he makes it out to be. Plus you can get a wash and cure station that makes cleaning way easy. I literally put a part directly from the build plate into the wash and cure, and wash it for 1.5mins, then take it out dry it, cure it for 3 minutes and it's done. It takes maybe 6 minutes to do the entire process from when I open the 3d printer lid to having my part done. You don't need to sand parts unless you put tons of supports or need something perfect. 99% of the time I don't sand anything and it's fine. Any spot that doesn't have supports generally looks perfect straight out of the printer. As long as you put the supports on the back of your prints you'll never need to sand. It's not that messy either, wear gloves and put a mat down on your work area that you can wipe off resin if it drips and you're fine. This video will turn people off from resin printing when it's not hard to do at all once you get a rhythm.
I came to some conclusions after some days in searching the web and YT (included this good video).
This is just what I think.
Hope this can help.
FDM have 2 major safety concerns:
1) hot temperature of the nozzle (which is very easy to manage)
2) VOC (which you can get rid off if you use an enclosure + expulsion vacuum fan). With PLA all risks are tremendously lowered, with ABS you have to work only in a very well ventilated space with a good enclosure and hepa + carbon filters.
Resin printers (SLA/DLP/etc) use chemicals.
UV resin are made of nano particles, part of them are volatiles (HEPA + cabon filters cannot block them), part VOC (i.e. micro particles which probably can be blocked by HEPA and carbon filters).
Uncured resin is toxic for environment and for humans (especially lung, eyes, skin)
Exhausted IPA (which is itself an aggressive chemical) has to be handled with extreme care and attention for the environment (which I really think few people do).
Some say that cured resin is safe, I'm not 100% sure of it. In fact if you look at operational instructions by producers of printers and some smart tutorial you will find that it's suggested to not cure for too long printed objects in a way they cannot became too brittle....
Some others say that after a certain time resin 3d printed object meld... Which could mean that if you don't cure completely the objects, then inside a portion of resin is still liquid (and extremely toxic).
When you touch the object for finishing it could be hazardous, still some nano particles can flow through the air.
For what I found there's not many scientific studies about safety with 3d printers but the most important researches are and will be on resin.
One university (maybe in California, I don't remember) got 100% toxicity of uncured resin for water creatures (100% of fish embryos died).
But the worst aspect is 87% of toxicity for cured resin objects! (they put some cured objects in a vat with water and fish embryos and the most of them died in a couple of days....)
That said, I'm really really sorry for this situation.
Resin printers are wayyyyyy better than FDM in terms of render, accuracy, smoothness...
I had for few days a small DLP resin printer and also this technology bring me to results impossible to get with FDM.
I gave back the printer an all the stuff because a couple o years ago I had a blood cancer and my doctor recommends to avoid chemicals.
I still use a budget FDM printer just for hobby, only with PLA + enclosure + vacuum + filters.
In a beautiful world resin and FDM should work together.
FDM is very good for big objects, for simple objects, for some mechanical objects and for making mold for composites.
FDM are relatively slow and very cheap to use.
Resin renders fantastically, every print is relatively much expensive than FDM. It's generally way faster than FDM (especially DLP).
Sorry for the big size of this message, I spent a lot of time for getting some realiable info (reliable = scientifically trustable and not sponsored...)
Hope it helps, hope technology will offer us very soon a true eco-resin
@@carlfogarthy6508as far as safety of cured parts: I don't think as long as you're using a reputable brand that it is much of a concern. Yeah don't make drinking cups out of it, but it's relatively inert once the photoinitiators have done their job.
You have to remember: many personalized medical plastics are made with resin 3d printing. Dental resin for things like Invisalign, retainers, dentures, etc. and those go in your mouth. Medical plastics are of course regulated by the FDA so I would assume a decent amount of safety. Obviously hobby resins aren't the same thing, but the photoinitiators are very similar.
Yes the uncured resin is likely very toxic. But I wouldn't panic much about cured parts.
I enjoy painting busts and miniatures so resin was an easy choice. I have seen some pretty incredible quality from FDM printers but they are at best slightly worse than the worst resin printer and the amount of black magic you have to do to get those kinds of results is intense. With a resin printer you pretty much level your build plate one time and then you don't have to do it again unless you replace your fep or drop the plate on the ground. The mess is real with resin though. You need to have your work space dialed in quite well and there are a lot of random things that you didn't think you needed that you end up having to buy. My mars 2 pro was about $250 but I ended up spending close to $650 with all of the other random shit I had to buy.... funnels, trays, washing station, IPA, microfiber cloths, squeegees, strainers for the resin, gloves, photochemical bottles to store mixes of resin, spray bottles... etc. Its a lot of stuff! And some of these things are recurring costs as mentioned in the video. Gloves, Resin and IPA specifically are the three big ones.
Resin has some pretty unfortunate mechanical properties too. Its much more brittle than PLA although I found some sunlu nilon-like resin that is incredible... but still nowhere near the flexibility and durability of PLA... making mechanical parts out of resin is much more difficult simply because of those material properties. So I would say if you're interested in making mechanisms or parts that are going to have to take a lot of punishment and you don't need crazy detail then you should go with a filament printer. If you are making art pieces then resin is a no brainer.
Edit: one thing I didn't mention is the size constraints. Even the smallest fdm printers have larger build volume than the majority of resin printers. This has actually been a big deal for me over the years. I upgraded my mars 2 pro to a Saturn S just to get that bigger build space. Fdm has resin beat in this regard by a long shot. There were many times when looking at cool stuff to print with my mars 2 pro that I ran into the issue of not enough build space. This is also something you should consider when you're weighing your options.
It seems like in this entire post I've seemed to be shitting on resin printers quite a bit. That's probably true... Let's talk about the pros of resin printers.
The first I've already talked about which is the print quality. It's way better by a long way....
Second is print time. Even the largest items (or multiple items) are going to top out around 9-12 hours depending on your settings with a resin printer. A build plate full of 12 miniatures on my Saturn S is going to take around 3 hours.
Third is failures. Both Fdm and resin printers fail frequently. Anyone who's used an Fdm printer has come home to a spaghetti mess of filament. Resin failures are much less catastrophic. Because of the way resin printers work you're not going to be wasting a bunch of material when a print fails. Of course the already printed material will be a right off but you won't be burning half a spool on a failure. It's actually way more forgiving with resin.
Fourth is setup. Once you have your machine calibrated for your resin of choice there's very little tweaking necessary from one print to another.
Thank you so much for this comment
Bro rote a hole essayy
@@HyperDevv wrote*
@@HyperDevv Whole*
but with resin isnt it easy to print in small parts then connect?
Thank you for this! You answered all the questions I had about UV resin printing. I want one, but I don't have the time... so for now my fillament will have to continue to do the job.
4:20
"you can cause damage to your skin"
It is much more nefarious than that. That stuff can damage your nervous system and can lead to serious disorders.
Yeah, but thats if yuo drink the resin...i think if yuo are a normal guy, there is no problem , as an example yuo have a kitchen that can burn yuo, but yuo use evreyday
@@noway8233 No bro, it is all about prolonged exposure. If you use that shit daily you should handle it with a mask and filter. Not just if you drink it.
@@Janovichthe delicious fumes messes yur head
This video really makes me want to get one now!!! I love your videos, I wish the algorithm wasn’t the way it is.
Please get proper protection against the resin.
It CAN CAUSE CANCER.
I just returned my resin printer. Damaging your health and environment isnt worth having more plastic crap
Dude I love that "ART IS NOT A CRIME" poster back there. Really hits home with me because my passion is making sports art (can't sell it sadly) so pretty much for free fun at this point.
Great video btw
Great Video! The way you compare the pros and cons of both helped me make up my mind on which is for me! Thanks!!!
That was everything I wanted to know PLUS the stuff I needed to know, without being previously aware I needed to know it. Thanks so much!
Bro I wait every day and check back while I’m watching ur house vids over and over or watching old vids I look to see if you have uploaded I makes my day
FDM printers can be pretty precise, especially with very thin layers. The problem is the print time, which explodes as shown in the video. I still think I'll go for a Prusa i3 next (and maybe a budget SLA later for some miniatures) - those things are pretty straightforward and not as messy, and I still have more than enough filament lying around.
If you’re worried about print time get a creality K1 max or a Bambu labs P1P
Thank-You so much! Couldn't understand the difference but you made it all very clear!
Great video!
Super interesting video. I won't be purchasing a printer but honestly super interesting to hear the similarities and differences. I learnt something and that's the main goal.
EXACTLY what I was looking for, thanks so much!
Such a great video, simple, all the important points covered. Thank you! Cheers
Thank you. I just got into 3d printing and this is super helpful
I’m ready to pull the trigger on my first set up and I’m so glad to have watched this. THANKYOU.
For my needs a filament printer will be sufficient. Was about to commit to an entry level resin printer on Amazon.
Extremely helpful. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Right to the point! Glad to see good quality content is still on CZcams. And not some robot lady reading a comparison list.
Wassup Dan!! Love your content!
I'm considering start on 3d printing and the video was really enlightening. Thank you!
thankyou for this awesome informative and quick video!
Thanks! You have really helped my buying decision! Great information
Awesome video. Clear, concise and informative.
I hope you say it ironically, because there are several points that are partially true but are greatly exaggerated in a negative way.
I just bought a UV resin printer before i saw this video, but i really do not mind all the work involved. It makes you closer to the item you are creating since you have several steps after its made.
Cope
@@Akshay-cj3hq 👀
@@Akshay-cj3hq based
Thanks. This was precisely what I needed in order to make a decision - or lack thereof.
really really good points on both side! Thank you! I already own an filament printer but always want to know about how resin one is
one of the best explanation about the difference. thanks!
About to get a printer for my son's birthday. This video has been so so helpful in making my decision! Thank you so much!
Bro! TYSM for this! You made my decision really easy 😅
Can we just appreciate how well Dan presents and talks to us, so professional and I feel like a friend is talking to me.
Wow Dan I want to have presentation skills like this.
I know I'm late, but there was a bunch of wrong data in the video, so I wouldn't call it professionals. He said, that its hard to discern which one is safer. NO ITS NOT. Filament is a 100% more safe. first of all, if you are touching the nozzle of a fillament printer, you SHOULD NOT BE 3D printing at all because its like puting your hands inside an working oven. If you ever touch the resin without gloves, you must immediately wash it off, without washing it into the sink. Resin also have vapors, which are 10 times more dangerous than fillement vapors. So yeah, he totally underestimated the safety side
@@elementscity4204 Dan is still a legend, he knows what he’s on about
I just saw this and the guy was talking so fast I thought he had done rails before he filmed.
@@fireflare260 what
Thanks so much. Great video. You cut right to the chase. Very helpful
Wow thanks! Excellent video!, very detailed explanation, thank you 👌🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Yoooo finally another upload😊
I follow both. But I like the longer more personal CZcams. We need more dan.
thanks! this video quickly gets to the point.
Tiny astronaut 🌠 Loved your live today, super cool to chat with you.💖
You made me feel better about my fdm printer purchase, thumbs up!
I currently have a filament printer that I love using, but am looking into a resin printer for the smaller detailed pieces. This video showed me a lot of stuff I didn't know about resin printers yet so thank you! =D
Just get a 3d printer with .06mm detail you won’t notice the difference
thank you, man! the insights are awesome!
Great summary, thank you!
nice video. bed leveling is one of the most annoying things i had to do. but my 3d printer(maker select v2 ) is old so maybe 2022 has newer better filament printing. Was nice to know that resin has way more post processing, cause if there is one thing i hate more than bed leveling... its post processing. So i guess ill stick with a filament for my next printer! thanks!
Honestly he made it seem more hassle than it is. Water wash resin has changed the game. Dunk it in a bucket and set it by the sun, and done. The speed and quality are unrivaled.
@@deathymckill9707 cool i guess thats better than sanding filament lines which is not too easy with PLA. can you comment on the smell ?
Thanks so much for the vid I was trying to decide on which of the two to go with and while resin was my original choice all the extra steps and cost isn't something I'm to interested in aswell as possible smell my family would hate it and be telling me something I can already tell so looks like I'm going with Filament
Now I'm sure I am going to get a filament printer I only want to print a few things as a hobby and I can't afford the resin and all the needed items to go with it. Thank you for this video. 😀
Thank you sir. I am just getting into 3D printing to mod my warhammer miniatures and this video definitely helped answer several of my questions and helped me choose what 3D printer to go with.
I have both. Love resin printing for it's detail. Hate it for it's cost per size (to even approach the size of an fdm printer, you're spending 10x as much money). And (i know this is a personal problem), i live in an RV. No way in hell i could use a resin printer in here! So it stays in the garage at the other end of the property (2 acres away). Where as my fdm can sit quite happily right on my desk in the rv. PLA, and PETG are both non-toxic to print indoors. Plus the FDM printer is just fun to watch! I like being able to modify my machines to make them more unique, or better functioning. This is something you can't really do to a resin printer. But again, like i said, i love the AMAZING detail of the resin printer.
Your comment about where you can use you fdm answered my query. I have a limited space in my bedroom for crafting and was worried about the odor. Thank you
Thank you! I was considering resin, but I’m going to start with filament.
I highly recommend the semiclear Eco Resin, it doesnt really smell much at all and with the Green Translucent resin Ive had a lot of really great success... the clear Resin, not so much, but oh well...
Hi can you tell me more about this Eco resin?
With the eco resin can you still prime and paint it or does the transparency resist opaque paint?
@@711pizzaslice absolutely, I just use a matte grey primer and it's great
Thanks for this video, super helpful!
Thanks for uploading!
Great video for somebody interested in starting out
The return of the goat 🐐 🔥
Answered every question I had and then some! I think I'm leaning toward resin as the majority of things I'd print would be small, and I'd like quality over quantity.
5:35 abs off gasses styrene that have to be ventilated outdoors. Both printers can be placed in an enclosure and vented outdoors to mitigate smells and fumes
The video I needed!
Super useful, thank you!
Cheers for the insights! I was pondering if I could enter this hobby but it seems too complicated (as in the process + timing) for me right now. I didn't know resin required all these extra steps!
I know, right! I was about to purchase a Creality resin printer but THANK GOD I watched this video. I also didn’t know that resin required all these steps. Waaaaaay too complicated of a hobby for my liking.
@@techforever1970 Yup and the fact that it's also messy
I live in a appartement so I don't have any place where I can do this hobby (like a garage). Before this video, I would have thought that I just needed to "cut & trim" the object after it's done being printed.
This is where I'm at too. Resin looks great but I can't handle that much time. Very useful video.
It's not nearly as bad as he makes it out to be. Plus you can get a wash and cure station that makes cleaning way easy. I literally put a part directly from the build plate into the wash and cure, and wash it for 1.5mins, then take it out dry it, cure it for 3 minutes and it's done. It takes maybe 6 minutes to do the entire process from when I open the 3d printer lid to having my part done. You don't need to sand parts unless you put tons of supports or need something perfect. 99% of the time I don't sand anything and it's fine.
very informational! Thank you!!
GREAT COPARE! thanks :D
Just got started with FDM printing. I'm still currently amazed at the quality and details of the minis I have printed and I'm not even doing it on crazy tight settings yet. I also like that I can print stuff that has practical applications. I haven't seen too many shelf supports made out of resin yet.
I am actually looking foward to buying a resin printer only because of the printing time and also because of the market being mainly filament based
I have both. You think your minis look amazing in fdm then you print them in resin and you realize it’s not even a contest. Kinda how you think your tv looks great then you see your tv next to an oled model at the store.
@@Bossmodegoat 3 months later I very much get that, lol. Getting into resin isn't an option at this point for me, but as long as I pick models that work with my Ender's strengths its pretty good. If I try something too detailed its doesn't go well. I look at it and think "Is that a cyborg or a guy who is half booger? "
@@nerdfatha thanks for sharing. I'm looking at both for the holidays and I just want to print some basic miniatures and scatter terrain/details, so I'm leaning a little more towards FDM. Resin sounds awesome, but for the cleanup and material cost it might not make sense for me lol. I still play most of my games on 1080p so I think I can live with less detail.
Basically if you make high detail miniatures or do castings, go resin. For anything else fdm is the way
Lots of good info. Thanks.
Amazing rivew! Thanks
There are water soluble Uv resign and the uv resign can be equal in price but both cost about the same overall if your smart with it and it’s just all up to preference
Question: Not sure if my previous Question came through. You present the Anycubic. I just bought one. However, I had no real idea what I was getting into. I don't have the right space for the Wash and Cure process. I am considering the Anycubic Wash & Cure Station (runs around a couple hundred additional dollars). Do you use it? Or do you do the wash and cure manually like shown in your video? What do you think about purchasing this station? How much different and safer does it become?
you talked me out of resin as astarter, but talked me back in with ease of setup and speed. ,
I like how this video is short and clear. Don’t see much of these these days.
Filament is just level the bed from time to time and hit print.
I have a Creality cr10 pro v2 and it's a good machine for the money
thank you for this vid was very informative. i have an ender 3 but creality has a resin printer on sale right now for 188 so im very tempted....
It would be interesting to see an updated version of this.
So mold making, say for automotive parts, resin would be the best bet due to its smooth and flat final finish. But its just a lot messier and many steps involved. In the end, its the quality i am after. I appreciate your video!
Thanks for the awesome info.
Thank you, nice information!
Greatvreview! Thanks!
To save money I purchased a Elegoo Saturn for small and high detail parts I'm researching a filament printer for large parts that don't need the high details and will merge the parts. Your right resin is soooooo expensive compared to filament printing especially when you buy the better resins even then I buy the good stuff to blend like the flexible and ABS like I never use the $70-$100 per 1000ml resins alone.
Whats the best option to print usable carbon fibre parts or is that not possible and i need to go to molds still?
This video gave me a great understadnig of which to chose! I think ill buy one of both because there is a sale on the resin printer so its only $100
Still staying with filament.....just bought 4 nice size spools of different color filament for 24$ on Amazon for my Weefun Mini 3D. There was some initial setup, no heating problems,and no smell. For what I'm making it's fine, small figures and keychains.
Wow. Thank you. Thank you so much.
You didnt metion the strength aspect of it. Filament is generally stronger right? Which could be using for making more mechanical things rather than miniatures
I think people should know that resin printers are REALLY toxic too, it doesn't just smell bad
one video answer my whole question. 👍👍👍
Im trying to do 1:60 scale war dioramas. I figure UV can do the little soldiers fine (at 1:60 scale theyre an inch high) can filament accomplish that well?
Damn, I was sold on a resin printer until this, great video
Which one will make a stronger object?
thanks! helped alot!
how much should i spend on a resin printer, any particular model better than others.....cheers.
Excellent video. I've had a filament printer for a week or so but ive seen how good resin printers are. I'll probably hold off for a while due to costs.
Depending what you want to print (size and detail), a resin printer could be expensive as hell, or cheap. I have a $100ish printer I do mostly terrain on, a $600 for my detailed tabletop minis, then a $1200 big boy for the larger models and huge terrain
Aside from part quality, the other thing resin has going for it is strength uniformity in every direction. Filament print layers separate way too easily under load when used mechanically.
I'm honestly only intrested in resin because the filament deck boxes i had printed by a friend started to sheer at the layer lines in the first handful of months. Thry don't go through a lot of mechanical stress, but apparently enough on the print lines to breat full layers off
So great. Thanks! ^^
2:52 my printer told me how hot it needed to be
I think there are a few misunderstandings here, the biggest which he didn't clarify is, what each printer does. Both have their positives and negatives. FDM is designed with more structure in mind, but I'm not saying it can't do fine detail. It can with the right adjustments. But far better for structures and strength. On the other hand SLA or resin printers can do high detail but tend to be more fragile. But! It can do structures, but again it's a pain. FDM can do miniatures of people with mods, like showing down print speed, changing the head to. 2 etc.... but it's not practical. SLA is the boss with miniatures, but cleaning can be a pain. So what is similar between the 2?
Both need to have pre & post work done. Print similar, but that's where it ends. Everything else is liquid vs solid.
After you do SLA a few times you're good at it. Just like FDM. So don't sweat what he's saying. You want to do SLA? Go do it. It's not that expensive 500 will set you up. For a good FDM it's going to be 500. Or if you're not sure get a refurbished or used. It's as easy as that. Have fun!
Sorry for judging that i thought , this is another clickbait but i was wrong. You did a great job! 👍
I use both FDM and resin printers and think you did a great job of explaining the pro's and cons.
For me, if quality matters it's resin, for bigger prints and just trying out stuff it's FDM (because it's cheap like you say)
I wish I could throw thousands at a big resin printer like you have 😁 Cheers!
Also, resin 3D printers shine when you're making miniatures, especially if you need them to have good detail
Great content 👍
Respect
I'm pretty sure the resin can get much more detail but I personally don't want to handle the resin and the process needed for both the printer and the print so I will go filament when I buy a 3D printer
Is fixing a film printer cheaper or resin printer?
very helpful thanks👍
Where did you get the hand model from?
What is a good hiquality resin that won’t make my house smell?