Great demonstration. I'm glad one can get away with this method , I always thought more precision was required . I shall try it next time blades require sharpening.
Blair... If you listened to all the know it all jackasses it would make you nuts! You just keep being you bud! You share tips with folks to help save them the time and tears of life's experience ... and those of us that aren't total jackwagons ...do really appreciate the amount of your time that you take out of your busy schedule to get these things made. Ill bet the "genius's" are too damn lazy to get off the couch ... Let alone invest numerous hours trying to help folks while asking nothing in return. You Sir ... are one of the example's of a true and fine American! Ok, now because you are hitting both sides the balance of the knife stay close? Is their balance really important like a mower blade??? Is think a bit less important. If you where to use a large mill file and while laying it flat accross the back of the blade on a 45 degree angle take two or three passes....then one pass at a 45 degree accross the front..... Then one light pass at a 45 angle actually accross the sharpened cutting edge...it will stay sharp longer...as the thin burr edge is removed...and that finite thin material is removed the blade edge can't roll and become dull as quickly. I use a ceramic flat file that was made for felco pruners...by felco....its an inch wide and six or so long and will really polish an edge. Slightly dulled is actually the sharper and longer lasting edge.... I just found 100 grit diamond polishing pads for a grinder on ebay and after I sand your way I'm going to put that pad on and oil the blades a bit and polish them super sharp. I just got my first chipper... It's an old Olathe 18 with an 18 hp Vanguard twin on it. The blades are all slightly chipped on the edges in the middle of the knives. There are four in a drum wheel ... I'm nervous to remove them as I don't have blade height from wheel specs or torque specs for the two bolts on each blade...and they wedge in the blade not go threw the blade to the drum. Took me a week to figure out that its desiged like that to allow the blade to slowly be moved forward as its sharpened and material is removed. After watching your vid I'm tempted to open the top access door and touch them up while still mounted...they'd be better then they are now but not perfect or exact spec....but I don't think that ...32's or a 16th would matter????
I have a timberwolf db150. You talk about holding the grinder to keep them flat, but they are originally concave I remember two outfits kicking off because sharpening services sharpened them flat. They both contacted timberwolf and they said that is not what they are supposed to look like.
Thank you Sir, very helpful. I just bought a Craftsman Shredder from a small engine repair shop(customer said too expensive to repair) . The drum for the smaller branches was pretty rusted so I had to balance it. In doing so I couldn't tell whether or not the (please forgive me , I don't know the lingo) blades that are not in a fixed position(3 in a row × 4, about 3/8" thick × 3/4" wide × 2" long with 2 concaved corners facing outward towards the extruder) need to be sharpened. It looks as though the concave portion may take on an edge , but it also looks like a LOT of work removing all 12 to sharpen them. Short story long : do those 12 blades need to be sharpened, Sir ? Keep on doing what your doing. Nay Sayers and negativity towards people trying to help others are just losers. LOVE the jig idea , Thank You.
This is pretty much the same way I sharpen the blades on my Woodchuck disk chipper. Only difference is that I use a hard grinding wheel on an angle grinder.
Thank you From what metal we take off the blades has not got to be that well balanced, Because wood chipper blade plate that holds the blades has crud stuck to it and all the base flail hammers wear uneven they all contribute to an off balance anyway ,So when we sharpen the blades a few ounces difference ain`t going to matter , so carry on with what you do to sharpen the blades there`s nothing wrong in the way you do that,. But I would suggest when doing the back of the blades I would use a wet stone and run straight across, this would give you more controle on keeping the back flatter, or a wooden long rectangle stick with whet and dry paper wrapped around it 'then go straight across the whole blades
Hi Blair Do you still send them top the shop for realignment once the pitting is bad enough do you mind giving out thew measurements for the clamp cheers
Wow.... We need to tear down our machine more often..... We use a carbide knife sharpener daily, but I've always questioned if there's a better way. What's the best way to sharpen without removing the blades? Or are we there with the knife sharpener?
drowsyd3m0n1c WENTZELL that touch up tool is fine if your blades are in great shape but the bevel is down on these chippers so sharpening in the chipper doesn’t really work.
I own 4 chippers. 1 is an old drum style (chuck and duck!), 3 are Bandit, self feeding disk. This blade is for the disk chipper but the same concept works for the 12" single edge blades on the drum. Need a different jig for that one. The jig for the disk fits all my blades. When they get too short, they don't fit the jig anymore. Currently, I have between 3 and 6 sets of blades for each chipper. Hope that answers your question.
Blair, how often do you think its necessary to swap out the nuts and bolts? I have been using the same ones for 8+ years now, and i just make sure to wrench them down VERY tight each time! I have never seen a problem. I wouldn't want to pay the expense of putting new nuts and bolts on every other change as the manufacturer recommends. It's always been a subject of concern of mine, and hence why I think I don't pull them off and sharpen them more often. I like the vids man!! :) Thanks
That's a great question. Metal can and does fatigue but usage and the type of material may weaken the metal. I had a tow ball snap off on a truck and that made me think more about metal fatigue
Yeah, I've always been perplexed by the chipper bolt and nut question! I would pull my blades off much more often if I just had a little more peace of mind knowing that those nuts and bolts were going to be ok! Smh..
If you were concerned about overheating the metal, couldn't you just pour some water on it between sandings? I know some sandpapers are made to sand while wet. It may even give you a finer finish.
I'm sure that this works well for you but my concern is that there is no way you are able to maintain the specific 41degree which is the optimum cutting angle for a tw150 (I am not sure if that is the same angle on your chipper.
I don't understand how that can be considered a "jig" it doesn't help you attain and maintain any specific angle, but merely holds the knife down and keeps it from moving while you grind it. There's nothing repeatable about this at all.
Only real problem with this is, over time your angle will change on the knife blade. Over heating blaa blaa blaa wont really happen unless you stand still with the grinder.
I think u do a good job on that jig I got some I could do that to bus most of that is exactly what makes a real chipper knippr brush knives planner knives that just want work for good for them. Knives can only b sharpened 3 times then there no good that u got on jig I got some u can buy like new never been sharpened no chips contact me if interested used knives good price
Nothing negative from me I do all my work presion millwright .welder owner operator welding and fab shop now into the tree bussiness the jig is a sucure way to harness from moving understood that we don't have certain items at home like the shops do but my years in the pulp n paper and welding it can seconds for a person to load up a grinder and just damage a piece of work dipping it to much side load then back flat raise the ass of the grinder nose dive the front now you got the dip working with the knifes that's a big factor that leaded into out of balance a eccentric lope in the disc fines an chips an mostiure building up behind the disc /holders /knifes now causing a crown in the knife thus loosing the pet gap in the high knife no the chip is not to spect it takes a experienced hand to keep a grinder at a specific angle and hold it the length of the critical pass with out loading up to one side of the disc or the nose dive we're is a milling machine will make one stroke then return one stroke grinders we tend to go back and forth staying just a second in one spot can and could remove a few thousands faster than the eye can see now there's a dip I learned several tips Thur out my years new disc are always better your grinder will act as your milling machine following the exact degree you want extended another piece piece of metal at the angel leaving a gap a little bigger than the nut on the disc place the grinders flat on both pieces gliding it in one direction lightly less heat the half of each disc will lay on the knife the other half on scrape metal putting a flat bar on the bottom plate so grinder will have a level traveling stroke thus it will were down but good for a set of blades or off set a piece to glide across the grinder then it won't wear the metal down I have the same exact grinder as you on the shelf you don't see them to often any more yard sale 2 dollars still works but truth be there's a hundred ways to do this we're all different but the end result is the same sharp blades
Great demonstration. I'm glad one can get away with this method , I always thought more precision was required . I shall try it next time blades require sharpening.
I still do this often. Saves me time and while not quite as sharp as from a machine, it does the job.
buymeacoffee.com/blairglenn
I'm sure to get some negative comments about over heating the steel and losing the temper. I keep moving the sander and the blades don't get too hot.
Blair... If you listened to all the know it all jackasses it would make you nuts! You just keep being you bud! You share tips with folks to help save them the time and tears of life's experience ... and those of us that aren't total jackwagons ...do really appreciate the amount of your time that you take out of your busy schedule to get these things made. Ill bet the "genius's" are too damn lazy to get off the couch ... Let alone invest numerous hours trying to help folks while asking nothing in return. You Sir ... are one of the example's of a true and fine American! Ok, now because you are hitting both sides the balance of the knife stay close? Is their balance really important like a mower blade??? Is think a bit less important. If you where to use a large mill file and while laying it flat accross the back of the blade on a 45 degree angle take two or three passes....then one pass at a 45 degree accross the front..... Then one light pass at a 45 angle actually accross the sharpened cutting edge...it will stay sharp longer...as the thin burr edge is removed...and that finite thin material is removed the blade edge can't roll and become dull as quickly. I use a ceramic flat file that was made for felco pruners...by felco....its an inch wide and six or so long and will really polish an edge. Slightly dulled is actually the sharper and longer lasting edge.... I just found 100 grit diamond polishing pads for a grinder on ebay and after I sand your way I'm going to put that pad on and oil the blades a bit and polish them super sharp. I just got my first chipper... It's an old Olathe 18 with an 18 hp Vanguard twin on it. The blades are all slightly chipped on the edges in the middle of the knives. There are four in a drum wheel ... I'm nervous to remove them as I don't have blade height from wheel specs or torque specs for the two bolts on each blade...and they wedge in the blade not go threw the blade to the drum. Took me a week to figure out that its desiged like that to allow the blade to slowly be moved forward as its sharpened and material is removed. After watching your vid I'm tempted to open the top access door and touch them up while still mounted...they'd be better then they are now but not perfect or exact spec....but I don't think that ...32's or a 16th would matter????
+David Thorne thank you for that David
This was absolutely brilliant thank you for your knowledge .Tim from Australia .
Thank Tim. Key is to keep the disk moving and don’t over heat the steel. I just did it two weeks ago.
I have a timberwolf db150. You talk about holding the grinder to keep them flat, but they are originally concave I remember two outfits kicking off because sharpening services sharpened them flat. They both contacted timberwolf and they said that is not what they are supposed to look like.
Different chipper
Thank you Sir, very helpful.
I just bought a Craftsman Shredder from a small engine repair shop(customer said too expensive to repair) . The drum for the smaller branches was pretty rusted so I had to balance it. In doing so I couldn't tell whether or not the (please forgive me , I don't know the lingo) blades that are not in a fixed position(3 in a row × 4, about 3/8" thick × 3/4" wide × 2" long with 2 concaved corners facing outward towards the extruder) need to be sharpened. It looks as though the concave portion may take on an edge , but it also looks like a LOT of work removing all 12 to sharpen them.
Short story long : do those 12 blades need to be sharpened, Sir ?
Keep on doing what your doing. Nay Sayers and negativity towards people trying to help others are just losers.
LOVE the jig idea , Thank You.
Most chippers cut and need to be sharp but there are some that are more flail than cut. I have no experience with those little shredders.
Sorry
Thank you for the video, what type of abrasive would you recommend?
Would these be the same concept on 16” blades from a Vermeer 1600a ?
Yes
This is pretty much the same way I sharpen the blades on my Woodchuck disk chipper. Only difference is that I use a hard grinding wheel on an angle grinder.
I find the hard wheel is faster but also hotter. Thanks for commenting
Good content. Thanks for sharing.
Kenny Sanchez glad you like it
Great video man, fully appreciated.
Just don’t over heat the steel or you will lose the tempet
@@arboristBlairGlenn got it, thanks!
Thank you
From what metal we take off the blades has not got to be that well balanced,
Because wood chipper blade plate that holds the blades has crud stuck to it and all the base flail hammers wear uneven they all contribute to an off balance anyway ,So when we sharpen the blades a few ounces difference ain`t going to matter , so carry on with what you do to sharpen the blades there`s nothing wrong in the way you do that,. But I would suggest when doing the back of the blades I would use a wet stone and run straight across, this would give you more controle on keeping the back flatter, or a wooden long rectangle stick with whet and dry paper wrapped around it 'then go straight across the whole blades
Shooting in Wisconsin
very very good idea thanks
tech270154 I still send them out but when I need them now, it works well. Just don't let them over heat.
Hi Blair
Do you still send them top the shop for realignment once the pitting is bad enough
do you mind giving out thew measurements for the clamp
cheers
Fit the jig to the size of your blades. Yes, I do send them out. This is an in between sharpening
Wow.... We need to tear down our machine more often..... We use a carbide knife sharpener daily, but I've always questioned if there's a better way.
What's the best way to sharpen without removing the blades? Or are we there with the knife sharpener?
drowsyd3m0n1c WENTZELL that touch up tool is fine if your blades are in great shape but the bevel is down on these chippers so sharpening in the chipper doesn’t really work.
Thanks boss but you dont have a jog for a drum chipper? i got to keep a precise angle with that one you probably know what i mean
If you mean a jig for the drum chipper, it works the same. Just don't over heat the steel
Great job I would do the same thanks for sharing 🦘🇦🇺 👍
how many chippers do you have?
how many spare blades do you have?
I own 4 chippers. 1 is an old drum style (chuck and duck!), 3 are Bandit, self feeding disk. This blade is for the disk chipper but the same concept works for the 12" single edge blades on the drum. Need a different jig for that one. The jig for the disk fits all my blades. When they get too short, they don't fit the jig anymore. Currently, I have between 3 and 6 sets of blades for each chipper. Hope that answers your question.
Blair, how often do you think its necessary to swap out the nuts and bolts? I have been using the same ones for 8+ years now, and i just make sure to wrench them down VERY tight each time! I have never seen a problem. I wouldn't want to pay the expense of putting new nuts and bolts on every other change as the manufacturer recommends. It's always been a subject of concern of mine, and hence why I think I don't pull them off and sharpen them more often. I like the vids man!! :) Thanks
That's a great question. Metal can and does fatigue but usage and the type of material may weaken the metal. I had a tow ball snap off on a truck and that made me think more about metal fatigue
Wow, was it very old and showing signs of age, or what?
Were you towing a VERY heavy pintle, and it shocked the ball shaft!
Yeah, I've always been perplexed by the chipper bolt and nut question!
I would pull my blades off much more often if I just had a little more peace of mind knowing that those nuts and bolts were going to be ok! Smh..
Just keep an eye out for the threads"stretching"
You'll see em (threads)getting rounded, you can compare them to new ones to see the difference
Should change bolts every few times
great help thanks
Alfred Anderson works well but don't over heat the steel
those are badass knives compared to my chipper
Hey Blair do you ever sharpen or adjust the anvil? I think its also called a bed knife
Yes but that's another video. Thanks for responding
+arboristBlairGlenn Great video! Have you done one on the bedknife by any chance? Thank you!
Yes but it has 4 sharp edges so we flip it
If you were concerned about overheating the metal, couldn't you just pour some water on it between sandings? I know some sandpapers are made to sand while wet. It may even give you a finer finish.
2ndAmendmentGlock you are correct!
I'm sure that this works well for you but my concern is that there is no way you are able to maintain the specific 41degree which is the optimum cutting angle for a tw150 (I am not sure if that is the same angle on your chipper.
The key is consistency. You are maintaining the same angle all across the 4 surfaces.
Great video. its how i do it on my 8" bearcat.
Joar Flesjå just don't over heat the metal
I know 😄 im a hobby Smith to
I don't understand how that can be considered a "jig" it doesn't help you attain and maintain any specific angle, but merely holds the knife down and keeps it from moving while you grind it. There's nothing repeatable about this at all.
Well, It holds them all at the same depth so the grind is even all across in one shot. What do YOU call it then?
Only real problem with this is, over time your angle will change on the knife blade.
Over heating blaa blaa blaa wont really happen unless you stand still with the grinder.
Angle stays the same unless you change it. Not hard at all to keep same angle
I think u do a good job on that jig I got some I could do that to bus most of that is exactly what makes a real chipper knippr brush knives planner knives that just want work for good for them. Knives can only b sharpened 3 times then there no good that u got on jig I got some u can buy like new never been sharpened no chips contact me if interested used knives good price
Latravisspikes Spikes thanks but no. You should try this.
Nothing negative from me I do all my work presion millwright .welder owner operator welding and fab shop now into the tree bussiness the jig is a sucure way to harness from moving understood that we don't have certain items at home like the shops do but my years in the pulp n paper and welding it can seconds for a person to load up a grinder and just damage a piece of work dipping it to much side load then back flat raise the ass of the grinder nose dive the front now you got the dip working with the knifes that's a big factor that leaded into out of balance a eccentric lope in the disc fines an chips an mostiure building up behind the disc /holders /knifes now causing a crown in the knife thus loosing the pet gap in the high knife no the chip is not to spect it takes a experienced hand to keep a grinder at a specific angle and hold it the length of the critical pass with out loading up to one side of the disc or the nose dive we're is a milling machine will make one stroke then return one stroke grinders we tend to go back and forth staying just a second in one spot can and could remove a few thousands faster than the eye can see now there's a dip I learned several tips Thur out my years new disc are always better your grinder will act as your milling machine following the exact degree you want extended another piece piece of metal at the angel leaving a gap a little bigger than the nut on the disc place the grinders flat on both pieces gliding it in one direction lightly less heat the half of each disc will lay on the knife the other half on scrape metal putting a flat bar on the bottom plate so grinder will have a level traveling stroke thus it will were down but good for a set of blades or off set a piece to glide across the grinder then it won't wear the metal down I have the same exact grinder as you on the shelf you don't see them to often any more yard sale 2 dollars still works but truth be there's a hundred ways to do this we're all different but the end result is the same sharp blades
Joseph Sinnott thanks for your insight
A back bevel is actually good. Works great on hand planes and these blades are simply very large hand plane blades.
GettingtheTruthOut I have often wondered about that
Nice in-between way to keep working or just have more blades ,ha
Brandon Dolan gotta keep moving!
I hear you great videos ,😁😁😁
how about making some from old car leaf springs, doesnt need to be perfect like a planer...
thomasbroking Chipper knives run at high speed and have to be specially made for that purpose. Uncontrolled centrifugal force can do bad things.
Yeah, I don't think so