5 Tips on How to Wire a Utility Trailer (long version) For Ultimate Reliability
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- Utility Trailer Repair and Wiring for extreme reliability and longevity. A bit unconventional, but an extremely reliable system I call parallel wiring. Since each side of the trailer has its own independent harness which includes a redundant ground running to each LED light box.
www.proplugpro...
Hand drawn schematic ibb.co/nnQwwdc
I like the tip you said to remember the location of the color yellow and green to the right and left side of the trailer.
My Pro Plug setup is coming today. Its going to be installed this weekend. I'm going to order the tongue jack in a few weeks. Thanks for your videos thats how I found the Pro Plug setup. I'd like to see you add some new videos.
Thanks! I'm over due for sure. What type of things would you like to see? I did start a scratch build trailer, do I need to get a video to show how that is going.
@@PaulsProTips more trailer videos haha
Great idea for parallel wiring the side marker lights. I dispensed with them on both of my trailers due to the inherent weakness of a mid-wire splice. I will use this idea & install side marker lights on my two trailers. Thank you.
Thanks man. I am appreciating the feedback and thrilled to hear some of my techniques are worth sharing.
I'd have to put the connector wire in a box on the trailer, lol. I recently rewired my HF trailer using conduit and a 4 pin harness, but just ran it directly to the rear taillights. Each side of the harness has its own ground wire. I used non-insulated butt splices covered in adhesive lined heat shrink. I just did away with the side markers to avoid additional connections. It's worked well so far. If I do have problems, the whole harness is $20. I do like your setup if you have 7 pin vehicles. It should last a long time before you have any problems.
very nice ideas, when I rewired my trailer, folding 4x8 trailer from 1988 w/ steel deck, I ran a separate ground wire to the rear lamps and didn't bother with the trailer ground, and no I am not running side markers, I do have side reflectors on it. I also soldered w/ heat-shrink the connections, due I work making wire harnesses.
Great Video! Thanks for sharing. I just bought a 6'x10' foot trailer and looking for ideas to upgrade it.
Thank you! The one in the video is a 6x10 too. I have another video on my 5x10 trailer I know you would dig.
Do you have a primary use for the 6x10 in mind?
You are awesome! Thank you for this video. I just subscribed!👍🇺🇸
Very nice video. I like your position on the ProPlug apparatus. For me, it would make sense to carry the connection cord in the truck. That would also offer a little extra theft-detterence since someone wanting to steal your trailer would think twice about driving off without any lighting. (Not full-proof, I realize)
I have a question: Sorry if this may seem a little picky, but do you really feel comfortable with that ProPlug box being mounted on the tongue with just 3M adhesive? I live in a moist climate with cold northern winters, so there's rain aplenty and also snow, ice and road salt. I'd was wondering, is there a way to weld a box onto the tongue and stick the ProPlug box inside the box for extra protection, or is there an easier way to attach it for better security? I was also wondering if there's a way to unplug the ProPlug box and take that with you, as well, for extra security. Another nagging little question: our small construction outfit has been using four-prong trailering cable connections for years. Does your multi-prong system allow for trailers to be equipped with a "backup" light, and what search terms do you use for e-shopping for LED lighting assemblies that include such a light? I like the idea of a trailer with back up lighting, both to let people know the trailer is backing up and also to illuminate what's behind the trailer to make is easier to operate on cloudy days or in twilight. One final question: have you ever hooked up any of those trailering cams, and if so, do they require their own cabling system?
I appreciate the comment and questions. I'll do my best to answer- though I think I may do a video to expand on the camera question.
I agree the security part of the plug not being ready and able for any theif to properly illuminate the trailer is an added benefit. Which you could get inventive on with your 1st question.
I was skeptical on the 3M adhesive when I 1st discovered this. I find the majority of people think they are above average. I'm humble enough to admit 3M makes some great products and I bet their engineers and teams know a bit more about adhesion than I do- so with that in mind, I tried the adhesive and so far, it is working perfectly.
I actually had a large fellow use the plug box as a step, and the adhesive did not budge.
They do make adapter plates to mount it to a round tube rail- so there are options when the adhesive doesn't work. You could also simply take the cover off and use some fasteners with or without the adhesive back removed. I now have these on 5 of my trailers- going back as far as 2017- and my confidence in the adhesives is high.
I live in the suburbs of Philadelphia so we see plenty of rain, snow, road salt and cold. Not as bad as some- but I think our seasonal changes span enough to really prove the 3M product delivers on expectations.
If you did choose to make a little steel cover for where this resides, it could even have a lockable face for that security we were mentioning before. The cover could also shield the box from sun and rain. Not required, but for those looking to overkill an installation, I would applaud a well executed box over the plug.
Unplugging the box to take with you is possible, but if it was security you were after, there likely are more effective areas to focus energy.
The ProPlug has the same 6 circuits (and ground to make up the 7 prongs) that any truck made today has so the back-up circuit is already in place. It would be easy to mount some lighting and grab the circuit. I may do a video on that!
The trailer cameras are super cool. I have a coworker with a 2020 GMC with the trailering cameras and it is awesome!
They do have 2 inputs for camera right above the 7 pin plug, so yes- they are separate. There are also wireless cameras to stand alone devices, as well as ones which hookup to your phone (assuming via bluetooth). I do plan on exploring these in another video.
I totally relate to what you described as a small crew using the trailers with the flat 4 plugs. Up until I started installing these ProPlugs we would constantly be "maintaining" the lighting on 3 trailers. It always seemed the lighting would need to be addressed at a time where it was inconvenient. Since these were installed (using the method in the video with the ProPlug), we have had zero trailer light failures.
I did have one guy hook up his 2016 Chevy 2500HD and initially thought we had an issue. After using the LED lights to diagnose it- removing each terminal individually - brought us to the conclusion the issue was back feeding from the truck! This guy now has a harness he made which only has 4 wires and the backfeeding issue has been eliminated.
He is a volunteer firefighter and has a few extra items on the truck. I can't say for certain the root cause- but his work around is sufficient for our small trailers.
With any other system, it would have been much more difficult to sort out the root cause.
Thank you, and keep the comments, questions & requests coming!
#1 the most important thing is don't lone your trailers out to people who don't take care of them. I do the same basic thing with conduit however always run underneath so it's away from the load but nowhere that can snag. lights are just a write off no matter what you do so I use the cheap ones. On the small trailers that used to flat 4 pin wiring and just watch for chafing points. have no problems even though it's cheap. make sure you have a good ground in the wiring is secure so it doesn't pull the ground out. Anywhere the wiring is not in hard conduit it's in loom and taped. If you can get rid of the orange side marker lights there just another. failure point
I appreciate you taking the time to comment. That is pretty cool that you've come up with a similar way of doing this. I wish more people knew about the Pro Plug. Immediately after doing this, two co-workers with 2016 trucks swore the trailer had bad wiring and I was able to use the PP to verify the issues were on their trucks. Best of luck with your trailer!
On my big trailer that has brakes I use a box similar to the pro plug. all my small trailers I generally don't even Sprint for that extra cost. Not to mention my Hyundai Santa Fe daily driver only has a 4 flat plug . I generally drive the Santa Fe to keep the miles down on the truck plus it's a little better on fuel but still tow from time to time with it.
Hey Paul - What kind of cable specifically is that? Is it trailer wire? THHN stranded? Im wanting to rewire my trailer soon. Your directions are great but I need a little guidance or a BoM.
You make it look more complicated than what it really is
You may be right. Somewhere in between this and what these trailer manufacturer's offer may be all that is needed.
Once this is done though, my system is very reliable. It also is interesting to diagnose. Several people have claimed a trailer has a wiring issue, but I can confidently show how it is their truck which has a poor ground, or a blown fuse. The fact I work with 10 guys who share a handful of trailers, and there has been zero trailer wire issues for the last two year tells be this system accomplished just what I intended.
To circle back to you comment, - yes factory trailer wiring can be improved with less material and effort than I do. What do you feel are the basics to improve them for reliability?
Why wouldn't you run side markers in series?
The light cord junction box would be safer mounted inside of the frame rail . Use bee hive shaped end clearance lamps . Very well done build ! 5/19/23
Green has the letter R and yellow has the letter L.
Thanks for the comment. That is another great way to help keep wiring straight. Thanks!
You should take the trailer to car shows and show it off.
Ha ha! I do gravitate towards more of the working guy's cars when I get to a car show.
In the 242 Bahamas i like yr video it was nice
Great video can you put the where you got the wire and lights in the comments?
For those of us that are use to being suckered into those 16 gauge trailer light kits, could you list out the Build of Materials, please?
i dont have any problems using the "16 gauge" wire provided with any of these kits, i do add a wire for ground, i dont like drilling into the frame and using the body as a ground and run it all the way to the plug ---- I NEVER crimp my connections, I always solder and use heat shrink then electric tape wrap and use that plastic wire wrap stuff
Does the pro plug separate the brake signal and the turn signal from the 7 pin on the truck? I'm trying to find a way to have certain lights dedicated as brakes and others as turn signals.
The Pro Plug simply conveys the signal. So you could grab the brake controller (blue) wire- which typically gets wired into electric brakes and use that as a brake signal.
The challenge is that the turn signals would still get activated when you step on the brake.
It really would have to be separated at the tow vehicle, before the proplug.
what do you reccomend to prevent rust on the underside of a newly installed steel trailer fender? I am having the rotted out fenders replaced on a well used older trailer I just bought.
I've not had a fender rust out quickly. The last one I replaced was on a trailer made in the 1990's. If you go to HD/Lowes and get a good brush-on metal primer and paint for metal, you'll be in fine shape. They make primer for clean metal and a different one for rusty metal. They work great on the intended application. May need to reapply ever 5 years or so, but that should do the trick for ya!
Your RIGHT to go on GREEN
It honestly took me a minute, but let's see if anyone else who watches the video and reads the comments can figure out your tip you shared. Thanks!
Green light is starboard (right), red to the port side (yellow is close enough).
Any vids on wiring a trailer with electric brakes?
I am building a homemade single axle with brakes. I will shoot some of my techniques and share them soon.
Do you have a particular question or challenge you are looking to solve?
Paul's Pro Tips Someone really rigged the wiring on the trailer I bought used. I really just want to replace it all including the wiring for the brakes but auto wiring is not really my forte. Regular mechanic stuff is easy but I have no confidence in troubleshooting electrical gremlins.
What are those conduit end connectors (at 6:45) called that you're using? Do you have a link where to purchase them? I can't find them anywhere.
If you search "emt pull elbow", it should populate with some great choices. I appreciate the question and thanks for watching.
Do you do this as a service for folks by any chance? I'm fairly close to the area.
No, I don't. I really am behind on videos I've started but haven't uploaded. The last thing I need are more of other people's projects.
This may make more sense, if I ever upload more videos.
I'm confident you can handle cutting off the old fenders, painting them and hanging new ones. You can weld or bolt them on. Worse case, there are enough trailer repair places in our area.
curious as to where you got your light kit and where would be a good place to purchase the wire I'm assuming the wire has to have the right colors in them....
I've got the light kits off Ebay, Amazon & Etrailer. Just be aware that you can't assume the lens will be red. Though the illumination will be. I prefer the look of the red lenses, but in one of my mother video you can see the white lenses.
The wire I bought was just some 4 conductor wire that was black white green and red. I put some brown shrink wrap on the wire terminals on the video with the red wire just to be consistent. So that works well for when you need 4 wires. I have access through work with a 6 conductor wire, but etrailer may be the best source for a 7 conductor.
What are you working on? Maybe I could recommend a reasonably priced solution.
@@PaulsProTips well working on a newly acquired 5x10 with just a regular stop/turn signal wires are shot I'm prob looking to install led/turn/backup lights and put in this 7 wire conductor br pro plug
@@bull5919 the 5x10 are a great. Versatile but not overly complicated. If I were you, you could grab some relatively thin gauge, double insulated wire from a hardware store and get it wired without trailer brakes.
This way you can avoid the expensive 7 conductor wire. If the main wire running to the rear light boxes is either 3 or 4 conductor you would have the extra wire (or two if you don't bring the ground to the light box- ensuring the ground up front is adequate). Then do the reverse light add with one of the other connectors. You could add some light green or purple shrink wrap or tape to that wire terminals.
Follow the rest of the wiring techniques on the video for a system that is extremely reliable.
Would love to hear what path or technique you chose.
@@PaulsProTips im having a hard time running down that small wire with double insulation here in georgia for some reason...But i was def wanting to go with integrated reverse lights once i find that kit.....Could you post a link as to what i should be looking for exactly
@@bull5919Great question, as I'm sure you're not alone. Hope this reply helps.
Depending on how many circuits you are running, you could re-purpose a 3 or 4 conductor wire often used on decent extention cords.
If you want new, you can buy a double insulated, 7 conductor wire like in this link:
www.amazon.com/Best-Connections-Inc-Insulated-Stranded/dp/B07D5HPJG6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=stranded+7+conductor+wire&qid=1569983778&s=gateway&sr=8-2
How would I wire up extra lights for my signals?
I'm not sure if I am misunderstanding the question, but you can just add more lights to any circuit you want. Is there a specific example you are struggling with?
Where can I find the pro plug system?
Link is in the video description!
@@PaulsProTips only the box is 35 dollars the could cord is 104 for the cheapest. So the set up you have would cost around 135 to 145 dollars.
@@chescabler2659 I agree that the cable cost is more than the plug set-up- but you don't have to buy that version to make it work.
I have made my own for significantly less. Yes the coiled wire is nice, but if cost trumps quality- you can still produce a solution better than any traditional configuration.
I would not let the cable cost prevent you from using the plug. We have them on all 4 of the trailers we use at work. Since I installed them 2 years ago, the amount of wiring issues we have has been reduced by 90%. Troubleshooting is very quick when we do and I have no regrets.
what jacks are you using ?
What kind of trailer wire is that?
It isn't specifically trailer wire. It's wire I had laying around that is good quality. I'm involved with pumps and controls, and this was just surplus wire from a job.
Just out of curiosity roughly how much does it cost for you to do this
I figure it cost me $35 for the Pro Plug, about $30 in conduit, $70 in LED lighting, depending on your source for wiring it may vary but between shrink wrap, butt connectors and wire that is likely $60 and then at least a 7 pin plug for the harness. Realistically it cost $200 for a high quality lighting and a full Saturday afternoon uninterrupted (if that is such a thing). People's value of time varies dramatically. So that is the expectations I would set.
If I wanted to say it can be done for less, that is absolutely true. Wire can be sourced for less or free via repurposing things, the LED lighting g can be purchased for less is you shop harder and roll the dice on quality. You could probably cut the price in half and have 80% of what this is.
I happen to be the type person who appreciates the extra quality and feel validated with every use. Buy once, cry once and enjoy. Economy lights need maintenance and replacement every year (sometimes sooner) and it is never at a convenient time.
How do you remove the lights if needed?
The rear you can push the lens in, remove the grommet and then pull out the lens and and unplug and replace it.
would you do this for some one els
Yes, I have. My good buddy Matt @AquaReale ponds let's me use his larger trailers- as some barter for trailer maintenance.
I've also done this for a few friends I work with. Everyone seems to have trailer wiring issues, but after following this process- long-term reliability goes way up!
Overkill, plus conduit would show on mine, I just use old extension cords, much easier, cheaper, faster, and just as good.
I’m pretty sure you need to get a bigger truck for this trailer
I do now pull it with my dually a lot. This is my lightest trailer, but also the most frequently used. I probably take it on a 250mile loop 3 times a week!