Hybrid Supercapacitor Car Battery Part 10 1 Year Durability Testing
Vložit
- čas přidán 27. 12. 2018
- It's been 1 Year (ok, actually 51 weeks) since I installed the current configuration for the Hybrid Supercapacitor Car Battery into my 2013 Kia soul.
Today we're going to test the supercapacitors and the LIFEPO4 battery for capacity and see if the rigors of starting a car and changes in heat/cold have had a negative effect on the hybrid battery.
------------------------------
Mad Electron Engineering with Rick Cullen is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program,
an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com
FTC Disclosure Statement:
Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these.
------------------------------
Links in description are affiliate links. My videos are for educational purpose only. Information is subject to change/update at anytime.
------------------------------
Check out my Amazon store which will have a list of all the products I review and use in my projects:
amazon.com/shop/madelectronengineering - Věda a technologie
This is the most open , honest and responsive l have ever found on Y/T.
Thanks.
Great vid. I still want to build a battery like that for my truck. I'll have to go back thru your earlier videos to see the parts you used.
I look forward to the 2 year test.
hey just get a supercap from a audio parts store, you can get some really big ones. and are already done up with connectors and usually have voltage displays
2 year review ++! Can't wait.
I'm surprised the oil cartel allowed you to do this!
This hybrid application is the next wave of technology and you should make a patent with crowd funding , thanx for posting 1 year in video , very cool!
Good job. I'm making a more battery-dependent setup. An 80F supercap bank (5x 400F 3V) in the engine bay and a 50AH LiFePO4 battery in the rear of the vehicle. The battery's max discharge current rating is 150A so I'll start with just the 6GA cable which should be around 0.008Ω and that should keep it under 150A, otherwise I'll add a resistor inline.
Excellent job man :)
we are doing this to out 2015 outback but using 12 - 2.85 volt 3400 farad maxwell capacitors! this will be over kill but it will spread out the power consumption better very little drain on all... im installing a 50 volt radio station in our mobile and i need to squeeze every little amp as possible out of the alternator i will get a 220 amp alternator and using more caps and two 900-1000 cc batteries and two inverters! 5 star brothaaaaaa and great job!
I haven’t wanted all the video in your series, but I also haven’t seen an lithium battery charging circuit. The caps seem to be holding up great. But the battery did loose more capacity then I expected and two thoughts came to mind. 1. The charging algorithm from the car is for lead acid, although it will charge the LiFeo4 cell it can also slowly damage it. 2 That battery typically doesn’t like being charged when it’s freezing, maybe a 5 minute delay to prevent charging until the engine bay helps warm the battery up? It would not surprise me if your battery capacity was better if you tested it again after it warms up? Still pretty cool it’s surviving a year and looking good.
Thanks for doing the follow up!
I've learned a lot from your videos. Is there a way to limit battery discharge if capacitors are empty?
I've been watching your videos for a couple of days now an learned a lot about this super capacitors. Just lacking the time to do all the setup and just thinking to ask... Will you be kind enough to sell this setup without the battery as the battery might be an issue when shipping this item?
Awesome that the battery pack is holding up. Do you have any plans on making a new temperature Monitoring like in your old video. Would love to see a new one.
Question would you ever think of incorporating a battery isolator so that the cap bank doesnt sit on the battery and when its off the caps hold charging voltage of alternator and not standing battery voltage?
I have a hybrid battery system in my old Nissan truck. It has been in the truck for about 5 or 6 years. I live in Southern Florida so the heat does a number on batteries. The only problem I have had is the little backup battery will die every couple of years so I just change them out every two years. I am retired and live in the boonies so it is not uncommon for this truck to set a couple of weeks at a time. My only fear is some cop will look under the hood and call the bomb squad. LOL This system works wonderfully and I make sure anyone who drives this thing is, no matter no one is jump or have anyone put a big battery charger on it . If some one does that they could possibly blow the caps and hurt someone. I recommend making up a warning label saying not charge or jump this unit.
Super caps won't blow. At 2.7V each max amps will makes them get really hot as they short internally out dead permanently.
Looks like a nice remodel. Still the 3V 400F with just homemade busbars? I was thinking of using the 3V 600F ones and three 8Ah batteries in parallel.
Also, would you need to do this, had you just installed those round balancing boards? (asking for if we wanna do it to our car. Would be nice to have a more permanent install & forget solution :) Thanks!
Gettibng close to that 2 year review ;)
Sir what if 4 lifo(18650) batteries instead of using 12v 10Ah lead acid??
bernardo tabula you would need a BMS too. There are plenty of CZcams videos on building Lithium-ion 12V drop-in replacement for lead acids.
Btw he used a Lithium-ion (LiFePO4) battery there, it's just a pre-built instead of a custom-built
Could you make another..compact video off how to connect a capacitor bank to a battery and dynamo and output power ...?
I was really hoping for this one year review so thank you. I'm going to build this next year. I think I will try to get a small AGM battery for a ATV. I haven't decided to use one set of capacitors or two yet. maybe I will try it with one set and if that doesn't work buy another set. This will be going in my 2005 Colorado with the 3.5L straight five.
For the 3.5l 5 cylinder in those trucks I would recommend 2 or 3 strings. 1 string wouldn't be powerful enough and you would burn out the supercaps.
@@madelectronengineering thank you for your response. I have purchased a string of caps on a balancing board and they are disappointing. They are on Amazon as Shaluoman Farad Capacitor 2.7V 500F 35X60MM Super Capacitor With Protection Board. After completely charging and discharging them a dozen times they will go to a higher voltage and handle a load longer. If I charge them and totally disconnect them, they will not hold a charge for long at all. I guess I will try Amperics without a balancing board next. I'm not giving up. I have decided to use an AGM battery that has about 310 CCA. When I have sufficient funds I will copy your design with 2 strings of caps. What do you think? Should I also use some kind of resistor to protect the battery from overcharging? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I have been building supercapacitor hybrid LifePo4 batteries for many cars since 2017. I have build many prototypes, designed with different combinations of cell capacities and capacitance of different types. Even install them on daily cars, sports cars and even super cars. For LifePo4 cells under the hood, temperature plays significant affect on the life time of the cells. If the battery is relocated to the boot you don't caught many problems. Supercapacitors from different manufacturers have big variations in quality, the internal resistance is the most important factor you need to worried of. Bad capacitors tends to build up internal resistance quickly. I hope there are more people interested in this topic and finaly I can come with a product that is available for the market. The goal is to build a battery that never dies.
That will never get to market without severe setbacks. Do you know how much they make off batteries? It would be a shame for their pockets, a damned scam.
I really liked your video on this. Question: Based on what you've learned, would you stay with the same 25 Watt / 0.1 Ohm Resistor; or would you change it to a different value ?
Check out the part 11, someone did ask the same question, and tldr 0.1 Ohm resistor makes the battery charge at ~10A or lower, therefore protecting the battery. You could use a lower resistance resistor if you are sure the battery can handle the amount of current.
Wattage rating is there for safety, iirc it handles about 10W in reality, but it's better to be on the safe side since resistors are not exactly expensive either.
Nice video 👍
I would like your help in building a cap bank for my bus rv replacing the batterys that was powering the bus.
U are not use balancing circuit? How iabur caps doing right now? Still cranking and kicking?
Did u remove the car alarm system to reduce the parasitic drain?
What capacitors did you decide to use?
I binged on this play list, thinking that loss answers the question I asked on the other video. Some that Jack Rickard mentioned about why EV's do not have lithium 12 volt batteries.
Re-Think This
The 2 measurements were done with different meters. Also there was a slight difference in start and end voltage that both negatively influenced the 1 year measurement. So it might be a bit better then showed.
On the other hand the battery must have been charged several times at temps below freezing. That’s very bad for these batteries.
In an RV these batteries would be great if you make sure not to charge them at too low temps. They are more expensive but will last much longer than any lead-acid battery and they have significantly less weight.
The supercaps wouldn’t be needed in a RV since you won’t draw large currents.
so how can i build a set up,.like that to replace the group 47 anti-gravity battery in my F430 Ferrari ? i could use a small lithium battery w/ some capacitors / ???
I would love to see the simultaneous output current curves from the capacitors and battery, or alternatively the capacitors and the power resistor at startup and the subsequent few seconds. Do you have photos of such that you could include in a followup clip? The loss of 20Wh capacity from a 120Wh battery after a year seems huge. Is this within the expected degradation? Were they tested at similar temperatures?
For a lithium battery it's more or less expected. That is, within the engine compartment. They don't like to stay charged in the heat, so this is not something great for it. Expected degradation for the situation.
Hi, still working? Any damage? Thanks!
Hi ... Thank you for sharing. Very interesting idea. I have seen bank capacitors that have been given a BMS module like in a li-ion battery. The seller said it was better. Do you think that doesn't apply to your bank capacitor? And is it safe to put in the temperature of a hot car engine? Thank you ... Keep working wonderfully ...
Good question!
Low temps (below freezing) is bad when charging the battery. High temps can be bad for both the battery and the caps. You’d have to check the data sheets and questimate how hot it be in your car. Putting the whole package in the trunk wouldn’t be a bad idea to me. Charging the battery below freezing will remain to be a big no.
I think I would prefer deeper storage on the battery. If the alternator or a belt goes out, are 10 amp hours enough to allow you to limp to a repair site? If size isn't a concern, a deep-cycle battery + the capacitor might give you the best of both worlds.
Even if the battery is capable of powering the car, it is recommended to stop and tow the car instead. The car is designed to run at 12-14V (from the alternator), and lower voltage might damage some parts of the car.
I know this since it did happen to my car (on lead-acid), and smoke and gas smells started coming out from the exhaust. And then it started losing power shortly after, which I believed it happened as a protection mechanism of the ECU from the car itself. (2011 Kia)
Most cars will run on alternator alone, even ecu. Done it many times, start then replace battery. Can fry ecu with spikes especially if second battery flat and full draw.
Vids were great help in my project....thx
I have also done this using XcessPower bank and 7Ah version of that battery. My question.. Are you still using the 0.1ohm resistor? That battery recommends no more than 10A charging rate. A 0.1 ohm will allow 170amps at 14v. Seems way high if the alternator is capable of it, of which mine can put out 150amps so I am restricting it further. I went with 7 ohm allowing 2amps, soon to be switched to 1.5ohm which will allow 9 amps. Then my 20yr, corrosion free battery will be perfect. Been about a month so far. 13+ volts every morning.
Thanks! I was also wondering why he used a 0.1 Ohm. Could it be because of a "voltage divider" scenario, where the battery receives a lower voltage than the charging voltage (13-14V) since some of it is divided into the resistor? I see that he configured the battery and resistorr in series. Please correct me.
Nice video thanks for sharing it with us , and I was wondering if u can tell me how much cranking amps that lithium battery that u have in there puts out , I know a regular lead acid battery that claims to b 12 volts 7 or 9 ah has 120 til 150 cranking amps that they deliver and I saw urs which is 10 ah and lithium I was wondering how much can give,
The cranking amps come from the supercaps so it dosen't mater, the LiFePO4 only has to charege the supercaps after starting the car
he is using a 0.1 ohm resistor between them
Jon Ander
Yeah I already knew that I was just wondering bout the lithium battery by it self , just wondering if u knew the cranking amps , cause am trying to do a project my self , and just was curious if I may knew for instance like how much amps would deliver , that’s all , but thank u
@@juanhernandez1238215 Discharge: 15 A max continuous, 60 A max 2-second pulse.
source: www.amazon.com/12-Volt-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery/dp/B00JK06CK8
why 11 when battery rated at 12?
So cool, I gotta build me one of those now...
I can usually squeeze 2-3 years out of a $100-$150 lead acid battery, would love to see how long it stays good...
Great video...keep em coming, still start your car smoothly? How well does it do if it sits for a long time, has it left you stranded ever by mistake?
@OmniTechnologies Research - You are 100% on changing the Acid every year! I started to experimenting on changing Battery Acid myself this year. Battery Acid is CHEAP, I got 5 Quarts for $22.00 at Home Depot! 1/5 of the price of a new battery!
It will last on its own for about 2 weeks and then the lifepo4 battery will be drained from the parasitic loads. I really do suggest you build one, just make sure you don't overheat it since you live in a rather hot area.
Brian C Adding a capacitor bank to a lead-acid battery will prolong it’s life as well. You could start with that and see how that goes. I bet you’ll squeeze at least 1 extra year out of them.
Mad Electron Engineering how would you recommend to control the temperature of the battery in hot climates? I'm thinking to add a computer fan, and some thermistor + mosfet circuit to control the fan. Then I'd glue/tape the thermistor to the battery itself, but I feel like its far from the proper solution. Do you happen to have an idea? Thanks
Have you thought about redoing the monitoring but use Bluetooth or WiFi instead of wired to dash? Also what do you think about Tesla just bought Maxwell? I think they will be building their own battery, shrinking and managing better regenerative breaking.
Wi-Fi will draw far too much current for continuous use. BLE will use less but probably still too much.
Did I understand correctly that you have omitted the balancing circuit boards in this final version?
Yes, he did, but he started with decent quality caps. From my limited understanding, if there isn't much variance between their capacitance and ESR, they will remain balanced enough.
5:18 - may I ask how you calculated that it has to be 0.1 Ohm, in order to not pull more than 10-15A? I would love to know that for my future electronic projects. Finding out what value resistor to use is still my most challenging part...
Would you believe trial and error?
@Mad Electron Engineering Haha that is great to hear! I am doing well then ☺️
Great project and I have followed from start. Batteries and electronics in general for some reason confuse me. I have a GMC duramax diesel truck that takes 2 group 100 batteries (CCA 800, amps 965, rc min@25 amp 110). I live in the desert and they last about 2years, 3yrs max. Could you give me your thoughts on how to replicate these specs? Thanks for the great content.
Common problem with those. They over volt those batteries alot.
You would most likely need to build two of these units, but use 4 strings of supercaps instead of 2 like I have. I would also see if other gmc duramax owners have done a battery relocation in their truck to help with the excessive heat you get living in a hot environment.
@@madelectronengineering same problem in the northern states. Don't forget to account for the power used buy the glow plugs if ever in a cold area.
just buy like 4 40152 lifepo4 batteries and put them in series. I bet it would work fine and cost less than a lead battery. I guess you could get and and do 4x2 to get more amps.
I am so confused.. i have a supercapacitor bank and wont even start my bike.. i charged it to 14.5v before putting it on my bike but still when i hit the starter .. engine wont start .. only a knocking sound..
i think the current is not enough to start my bike..
2.7v 500F each (6 capacitors connected in series).
Thats my setup.
Some cheap Chinese capacitors cant handle large amperage loads. ALso make sure if your using a balance board you used solder to increase the size of the traces to handle the load. might need a few in parallel.
Would you sell the unit already built?
your capacitor pack not available at your store - today is july 2019
You can buy any supercaps as long as it has the same farad and voltage rating (as well as maximum current, but most supercaps are capable of large amount of currents)
Go be with your family on xmas eve jeezzz. good video tho.
amperics 13V120F350A comes up on Amazon ($70) as 14V120F350A - (Balancing circuit not included)... Amperics AMD13V350A ("...They come with built-in
balacing circuitry to ensure long lifetime and quality.")... no price found, so far.... may be useful to order with M6 cable lugs: right angle to long axis ("T"?)... possibly even double-ended for parallel/buss bar installs.
Can you take the battery pack apart and put it back together so I can see exactly what you did oh and where do I get the box
He has all the vids of the build on here.
thumbs up!
Instead of using a 0.5ohm resistor, would it be possible to use an inductor?
no there would be no benefit at all
amazing video! what the value of the resistor that you use in serie with the batery? 24 ohms?
0.1ohm 25 watt
@@madelectronengineering but the math dont match, because (12v*12v)/0.1=1440amp that dont protect the battery from overcurrent
Daniel Moraes mind explaining your own math for that?
V=IR so I = V/R
I = 12/0.1
I = 120
That's at 12v difference (capacitor @ 0v battery at 12v)
Battery specs say 10A max charging current, @14-15v. Built-in BMS will cutoff if too much current.
Do you put any balancer circuit for the supercap?
Initially for other packs he did, see earlier vids, but then he dropped the balance boards for the 600F caps. It’s important that the esr’s are about the same of all caps in series.
How much current does the capacitors put out to start the car? How much energy does it take to start that car?
Usually 100-200A cranking current and 3-5 kWh. Not a lot of energy, less than a cellphone battery, but throwing that energy in a few seconds is a challenge.
Nice ^^
💜🌼🌸
35 degrees... That's either kinda chilly or kinda warm....
Хай! Я сделал раздельную систему пуска, суперконденсаторы заряжаются до 16,2 вольт, через повышающий преобразователь, и и во время пуска двигателя реле отключает ионисторы от АКБ.
czcams.com/video/QEBY0uA-Z-Y/video.html
Insulation may help and heater trigge heat
Weigh the dessicant bags and you can see if they absorb anything. They are probably already saturated though
magnets1000 that's a good idea. Personally, I don't think they help much. I think they would absorb moisture very quickly through the insulation around the wires. End-to-end, wires are not vapor proof and the pressure changes every night sucking in moist air.
One problem. Your desicant packs are useless in this configuration, since the box is not air tight. Also reusing those desicant packs is not recommended unless you bake-out the moisture in an oven.
If we run tiny heater keep it warm in extreme temperatures
are you still running this set up?
Yes, please see year 2 update video.
20%ish lost capacity for a lithium ion after 2 years is decent. But at that rate you will be replacing it almost as often as a a good lead acid. Don't get my wrong, I love the concept.
That's not an automotive rated lithium battery. It's probably junk cells to begin with
isn't he leaving the battery out??... I mean the set up that he did is to protect the battery vs time and vs the freezing cold weather... apparently the cold weather would have damaged a battery way more... the idea of his set up, is that it extends the life of the hardware
Robert Ostman
Good point. Li-ion and Li-FePo should not be charged below freezing point.
It would be worth looking at LTO batteries instead of LiPo, they are more suitable for an automotive environment.
Ηοw were the super caps 13.35V out of the car and in the car 12.9V? What's causing this drop?
The drop was caused by electronic unlock of the door and also have footwell lighting that pulls 6 amps when the doors are open. The second I opened the door the lights started to drain the supercaps.
@@madelectronengineering Oh ok! Do you still have that resistor in between? If yes whats the value?
Yes it's still there. It's a 0.1ohm 25 watt resistor.
Mad Electron Engineering Replace those bulbs with some LED lights, about 100 mA drain per LED VS 1 Amp on the edition bulbs. (1.2 watts vs 12.4 watts on average).
Mad Electron Engineering would you mind to provide the calculation for the resistance? I'm still confused why you ended up with 0.1 ohm
Powercap Supercaps 36× 500F Accu Battery 2,7V Farad ➡️ czcams.com/video/ihSc7Bj_oQk/video.html
My 660Wp SunTracer Solar Tracker ➡️ czcams.com/video/X0lmYFwOq3U/video.html
It past 5 ears from this movie. Something new?😋
Инженер, автор, решил 3 серьезных вопроса. 1) Использовал конденсаторы без BMS 2) решил срабатывание BMS в LiFePo4 (дополнительный резистор) 3) использовал 5 штук вместо 6 штук как все (чем увеличил емкость конденсаторов, на 1/6) вывод: Можно использовать меньшей ёмкости АКБ свинцовое и +суперконденсатор, что продлит работу АКБ с 5 до 10лет, чего вполне хватит.
Serg, привет! Серьёзный вопрос: если я тупо соединю 5 ионисторов посл. и поставлю их параллельно обычной свинцовой батарее - не выжрут ли ионисторы всю батарею? Какой у них ток утечки? (ну, или мощность) И ещё вопрос: какой смысл соединять ионисторы "встречно-параллельно"? (типа 5 пар параллельно и все они соединены последовательно)
@@Thornik2012 У меня стоят, несколько лет, ничего не выжирает. 500f/6шт = 83f куплено на АЛи за 1300р они и теперь продаются, почти за те же деньги. А последовательно, потому что напряжение 2.7 вольта их пробьет 14 вольт. Вот и весь секрет. Стоит старая варта 13года 60ка, но она живет! хотя 2 раза замерзала насмерть.
@@philosov Нет, про "последовательно" я и так понимаю, я про "встречно-параллельно" - есть схемы, где те же ионисторы соединяют парой (параллельно), а потом эти пары - последовательно. Смысл в этих парах?
@@Thornik2012 Тоже самое как в конденсаторах. паралельно увеличивает емкость, если 10шт по 500 соединить получится 200фарад что больше чем 82...
@@philosov Понял, пасип! Тут в другой ветке советуют ещё "зашунтировать стабилитроном" (вместо балансировочной платы). Ты представляешь, как это схематично? Я сам - "продвинутый чайник", т.е. что-то по верхушкам знаю, но по схемам ни в зуб ногой. А хочется сделать нормальную вещь, чтоб не сгорело ничего.
wait, you didn't install a balancing circuit ??? I'm surprised it survived a year.
JahuGarcia didn’t even use balance boards on his first DIY EV batteries. The ESR’s of the caps were matched.
@@Conservator.
When those batteries get old , each cell will have different resistances. Some will charge fast and some are slow. He runs the risk of burning his vehicle down. It only takes one cell to go bad and the rest will burn down with it.
WTF BBQ
You are right about that. He used already old batteries but measured their capacity and matched them carefully. He also put lots of them in parallel with fuses. It went ok as far as I know. I agree with you though that with li-ion batteries you definitely should use protection and balance boards.
With these supercaps with low and matched esr you could go without if you don’t mind taking the small risk of destroying your pack.
Since the price of these boards is quite low now, I’d go with peace of mind.
In short: supercaps are much more stable than batteries, therefore balance boards are less of a necessity provided you leave some margin.
Please make schematic diagram.
Doesn't damage the stator/alternator????
My alternator is still working perfectly after 2 years.
Mad Electron Engineering thank you.
2 years review please...
Thanks...
Too busy this month, will get the testing done and video out in January 2020.
@@madelectronengineering Thank you sir.
Ill wait patiently...
I read the title and thought it was for hybrid cars. Oh well, can't have everything.
What makes it a hybrid? I was expecting a battery drive train.
Supercapacitors combined with a rechargable battery to get the best advantages of both.
Drain hole is more effective than silica gel - unless super sealed - I'll be copying your setup into my Jag (UK)
What engine does your Jag have? Please let me know if you've done the setup.
I'm going to build the same for a 6 cylinder 3L car, so I'm worried I'd need more supercaps than him.
🤟💥💥👍👍👍👍👍
5 caps in series. That's 2.9V per capacitor when the alternator is charging at 14.5V! I presume they are 2.7V super capacitors???
EDIT: You said it; they are 3.0V capacitors, sorry.
Another thing: I have experimented with a 6X350F system with balancers and a paralleled 4S 5P (12AH) Li-ion pack with BMS and I don't drive that often, and last winter i managed to run my lithium battery pack down so it shut off. I have noticed that self discharge is larger than I would like which is either the balancing boards or the Maxwell capacitors or the BMS in the Li-ion pack. The car itself only uses 2.5mA parked. So what kind of capacitors are you using? I suspect they are better as the manage without balancers and have less self discharge?
I'm using amperics supercaps. I'll try to add them to the description of the video later today for you.
@@madelectronengineering Thanks alot!
I'm thinking to actually add a relay, powered by the ACC signal of the car, to disconnect the supercaps when the engine is not running. The disadvantage is I'd need to wait a few seconds (a practice we should all do for fuel injected cars anyway) for the supercaps to charge before cranking the car. What do you think?
@@PatrickHavilah Depending on how long you intend to park between driving, it might work. However, if the caps are low, they'll pull a lot of current when you turn the key to first click, even as much as your fuel pump wont run.. What I did was put a power resistor (really a heater core from a 12V car window blower) to act as a limiter from B+ , so charging voltage, didn't bog down the alternator completely, when putting out 14.5V into caps at 10V. However, when parked for a long time, the caps drained anyway (I only had 50F combined capacity, 6X300F caps), So I put in a 10W solar panel on the dash, with a solar charge controller, to keep the caps at 14.5V most of the time. In winter, there wasn't sufficient sunlight though. So I'm hoping to upgrade the caps to some of the more expensive ones with 10 times the capacity. It's an old car, so quiescent drain is only 4.5mA when parked, still, it was too much for parking a week in winter.
Tore Lund the solar panel idea is brilliant! Is it safe to run when the car is running (alternator is charging) though? Or do I need to disconnect the solar panel before starting the car?
Btw, where did you buy the 300F supercapacitors from? Is it AliExpress/Banggood/eBay?
Your positive battery terminal connection is to loose.
Dangerous moment: LiFePO4 battery intended to use in very limited temp range (charge: 0 to 45C, discharge: -20 to 65C). Obviously under bonnet it's much warmer :) IDK what happen to LiFePO4 in a heat, but nothing good.
Been running for 4 years now with no issues.
@@madelectronengineering Cool! But this "lucky case" cannot be proof "everybody can install it". Say, weather in my country easy can be 34C - imagine what's happen under bonnet! (w turbo) I'll feel OK only if battery can be installed somewhere under "forced wind" (some pipe from the bottom of the car) :)
@@madelectronengineering One more moment: I heard LiFePO4 also requires *regular driving* . Otherwise it can be dead quite quickly. Is it true?
Battery LiFePO4 afraid of frost. Instead LiFePO4 you need to use lithium titanate LTO
Best comment!
@marthale7
LTO in all respects is better than a LiFePO4 except for the price.
@marthale7
I have already installed the LTO assembly on my car for 5 years. 2 video recorders 24/7.
In winter (5 months), every day, once for 40 minutes, an autonomous heater webasto for the engine operates. Sometimes, when traveling to the forest, we spend the night in a car and an autonomous heater webasto works. Lead-acid batteries could not withstand such loads and constantly sat down. The gel battery did not change the situation either. Therefore, I made such an assembly of the LTO.
@marthale7 Well, here I am a real LTO user. We have relatively severe winters down to -25. They have never failed. It never happened that they did not start a diesel engine. But with lead, this happened all the time.
How about a 10year review.
I'll let you know in 9 years.
This is a confusing title. These are NOT hybrid supercapacitors, which have an anodes of lithium/graphite and a cathode which is an EDLC. They an be charged to 3.8 volts, but not discharged below 2.2 volts. Yours are EDLC's.
Why aren't cars like Teslas using these hybrid batteries ?
Capacitors dump a lot of energy at once but don't store much energy. Great for 2 seconds of engine cranking. Not so good for listening to the stereo for 2 hours without the engine running
@@brad3378 low power density, extremely high current. It could make sense to use it in 1/4 miles cars... Currently just for fun.
They dont really need cranking amps they need a lot of energy and those supercaps only have 6 Wh (almost nothing)
LiIon still has the highest watt hr to weight ratio out there...if supervaps could do 12-15vdc or higher and do 700F+, then you would see supercaps become mainstream for power storage devices
@@jonander6811 yeah, they need sustained current, ALOT to get moving, but quickly taper off
Why spend so much on that lithium battery for like $20 you could have went lead acid and like 9Ah
Those little LA batteries lose a lot of capacity in 1-2 years. Good Li cells can last 5-6 years before losing significant capacity.
You can't start a 2L Kia Soul (the car he used in the video) with a 9 Ah lead acid, youd need at least 50 Ah since the 9 Ah battery does not have the necessary amperage for the starter motor of the car.
That's precisely why he used supercaps in addition to the battery, mainly to handle the high current required by the starter motor.
Also lead acid hates deep cycles. In reality, the 50 Ah battery in most cars, you probably only use 10-20 Ah. Going more than that a few times and the battery is done.
Well I was talking about with the super caps obviously but as little the batter is actually being cycled it would be fine
UGLIEST CAR EVER AFTER FIAT MULTIPLA