41TE hydraulics
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- This is a lecture on the FCA 41TE transaxle hydraulic system. In this video I explain the hydraulic valving in each gear. I discuss the pressure regulator system on the original and LPS version. I also cover how the solenoids control clutch application. This video is intended to teach a student or a technician that's new to automatic transmissions the operation of this simple transmission. This is the first transmission that the students go through in the class, because it's easy, basic, and relatively quick to go through.
When I was Chrysler tech I went to transmission clases for weeks to Baltimore and Richmond. And this guy put those clases in my table for free. Thank you so much.please don’t stop. I will recommend this videos to other
Thanks for the videos. In the last month I have learned a lot due to my Hyundai Transmission going out. I'm still trying to figure it out. If any commenters want to give me advice I welcome it. I'm lost. Here's the issue. It won't go into Drive but Reverse works great. Every once in a while I can get it to engage in second gear. When this happens I can drive it normal as long as I don't go above 4th gear. When I go above 4th gear I lose 1-4th. 5th and 6th work great. To me this says there is something wrong with the UD clutch not engaging. I thought maybe it could be a solenoid so I took the 3-5-R solenoid and switched it with the UD solenoid. Since both solenoids are the same I figured I would lose reverse but gain Drive. Unfortunately I'm still at the same issue. Solenoids are not the problem. What's odd is if the gear doesn't engage the speedometer will move and the car won't. Where should I focus my attention? The valve body, (my #1 choice) Electrical such as the speed sensor, or the piston or clutch itself?
Any tips will be greatly appreciated.
Good teaching air
I overhauled my 41TE 1997 DGC, (with 270K km, I'm the 2nd maybe 3rd owner, and my first car in Canada and no budget for shop overhaul). It has downshift bump when bought it and after a year of careful use and maintenance (tranny & engine change oil), it went to "limp mode". It will not shift to 2nd or 3rd but has the reverse. The code (I can't remember the #) says "internal mechanical issue". I replaced all plates, clutches, rings, 2 speed sensors, UD clutch, checked/cleaned/flushed the solenoid body, torque converter, pump, new ATF+4 but re-use the old solenoid pack. Before that I tested this SP and the ohms are good within specs. The reason is I can still replace it later if the downshift bumps persist. After the overhaul, all codes were gone but the bump is still there, just like the tranny was before the limp-mode. After running some +300km., I replaced the SP with new Wagner. The van works well smoothly during road test but reverts to its old bumps today just after some 50 km. What else should I need to check/do to remove the bumps, there's no code. I know that if I these bumps continue, it will to totally erase the spline of the sun and planetary gear assembly. I found out this was the reason why the tranny went on "limp-mode", because the assembly was no more mechanically connected and driving the shaft due to total loss of spline. I replaced this assembly in the overhaul. I have not yet tried the re-learn by scanner. Please help. I love this van Thank you for reading and advise.
The dtc you got was probably “internal trans controller” p0700. It means there are codes stored in the transmission controller. That code might be a good clue. With a scan tool, you can check clutch cvis, which give an indication of what clutch is either engaging hard or soft. Another thing would be to check for any software updates. They fixed a bunch of problems for bumps and flares with software updates.
@@siuautomotive Thank you for your time to reply. I just brought the van to the shop last Saturday and scan shows P0700 (yes the mechanic said its a generic code). He did a road test around the block, accelerates/stops, scan again and no more code and did the re-learn right after. (asked me if I changed tire, forward/reverse, on/off the ignition), when he tested still there were bumps, though occasionally now. He said it will take many cycles to re-learn. I used the van Sunday (Father's day celeb. with the family) for say 150 km. and went back home still with bumps, though minimized. The hard upshift is like in 2nd to 3rd, or 3rd to 4th going uphill and you let go of the gas. Feel like disengaging but hard one. But once shifted to 4th, no more bumps even I let go the gas. The downshift bumps occur when stopping from 2nd to 1st shift. It's like releasing hard. I will see the mechanic again to get the CVI values and let you know. I hope I can find the solution with your help. I though the new SP will solve the problem. Thanks again Sir.
Gracias por tomarte el tiempo de entrega, para nosotros los técnicos
Si fuera posible algo español
A very interesting movie. Mechanics is my passion and I am very interested in it.
In my 41TE in Chrysler T&C 2002 I have a very unusual problem. Maybe you have some suggestions.
The problem is that the gearbox shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear only when I have pressed the gas pedal very little and the car is slowly accelerating. If I accelerate the car faster, then it changes from 1 to 2 only, to change to 3 I must minimally, very little, reduce the gas pedal for a short time, then it will turn on 3. Shifting is very smooth in each gear, the reduction of gears is also smooth, without jerking. There are no DTCs. The oil is in good condition, changed 20k kilometers ago.
I watched this video several times and I'm trying to understand where the problem is, it looks like the gearbox does not try to change gear, I was looking for electrical causes, I replaced the TPS but it did not help. Diagnostics done by dealer also did not give an answer.
What can be the resone of it, something wrong with valve body?
It sounds like the delayed shift is being commanded by the PCM/TCM. If the shift is being commanded late, I'd look for an input to the computer that might delay shifting, such as temperature, MAP, and range sensor. If those read correctly, I'd put a PCM/TCM in it to see if that fixes the problem. Good luck!
Hello, This is a continuation of my question below. A local mechanic took all the readings of the CVI indexes and they are all good, meaning within the specified ranges, except for one (I think the 2-3 not sure). The reading is on the low side of the range. Is this the cause of thug/bump when shifting? The solenoid pack is brand new. Can the PCM be adjusted to the CVI reading to stop the bump in shifting up/down? The TPS is also brand new. I will go to the local dealer shop and will ask them to adjust the PCM settings/pressure if it is doable. Please advise and thank you for your valuable time to reply.
Wow, thank you so much for that information! I'm going to be doing a flush on my 41te with the engine on. Should I be adding the transmission fluid through the dipstick hole or should I pump it through the inlet return hole? I have a hand pump. I was reading a forum and these transmission experts were arguing what gets lubricated on the flow coming back from the cooler. Some people were saying that the cooler dumps straight into the transmission pan (or doesn't lube moving parts in park), While others were saying the cooled down return transmission fluid still lubricated some MOVING parts before dumping back into the transmission pan.
The return transmission fluid from the cooler eventually does go into the transmission pan, correct?
I've seen so many people do a transmission flush on CZcams, however, I know all transmissions are slightly different.
I just go through the dipstick. It’s true that return fluid is going to the lube circuit, but there is so much oil on those parts it won’t make a difference.
@@siuautomotive thank you so much for the reply! I couldn't find a diagram from the cooler to the transmission pan. All the diagrams on your video showed an arrow with the word " lube" and then there was empty space from the cooler.
I'm going to be flushing 2 gallons out. Those circuits won't be hurt not getting transmission fluid for a few minutes? Some guy was saying that there might be a moving part while still in park?
Yes, there are moving parts, but there’s no load and plenty of residual oil on those parts. Think of it this way, the dodge 46re just dumps all converter pressure off to the pan in park and it’s designed that way from the factory.
@@siuautomotive hey, thank you so much for your time! I'm a little slow on the uptake sometimes, LOL. For some reason I thought the section from the inlet to the transmission pan would be completely dry, but like you said there's going to be fluid sitting there, it just won't be circulating for a few minutes.
One last question, I'm going to be opening up one cooler line while doing the flush for 2 minutes. I know it's extremely harmful to overfill the transmission fluid, however, during the flush could I extremely overfill the transmission pan while continuously pouring in transmission fluid? The extra pressure should just come out of the open cooler line?
I guess two questions, lol :-)
If I mess this up I am in some deep deep trouble I don't have three thousand bucks for a new transmission.
You’ll see that you can hardly fill it as quick as it’s pumping out. Have your bottles with the lids off and ready to go. An overfilled trans is only bad if you drive it like that. The fluid hits the gear set while driving and foams up (aerates) and air bubbles aren’t good the the trans. You could also mark the bucket to give you an idea of how much is pumping out. If you get out of sync, shut the engine off and sync back up. Honestly, it won’t hurt anything if you suck it out too quick or if your filling it too quick. Just make sure your final level is good
Thinking of taking on the job of rebuilding my 41te.
Cpl questions,
Good book/manual?
Best place to get a COMPLETE rebuild kit?
Thanks!
Sonnax for transmission rebuild kit
Accumulator = Filtering Capacitor.
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