This is why your Montero is burning oil
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- All years of Monteros suffer from bad Valve stem seals (VSS). They get old and crusty over time and then they don't keep oil in the head. In this video i aim to explain a little more of what is going on with this issue, how much work it is to fix and a few tips if you tackle it yourself.
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Thank you for this, I knew I wasn't going to try this before and now I really know I need to find a good classic Mitsubishi mechanic in my area. I have to pass emissions on an '89 V6 in a month to get plated in a county that has emissions standards. Living in rural mountain counties has advantages sometimes.
I am either going to have to do this someday on mine...or just do it when I swap to a 3.8.
Either or...it's going to have to get done. Great video!
TIP: IF you decide to leave the head on, I did, then you can keep the valves in position by filling the cylinder head with nylon string (or a strip of shop rag) via the spark plug hole, *on the compression stroke* for that cylinder.
Then turn the engine (BY HAND) until the piston compresses the string up and holds the valve firmly in place. Be careful, if you do this on the exhaust stroke, you will bend the valve. When you have reassembled the valves for that cylinder, pull the string out and start on the next cylinder.
I left the head on and was able to replace all my seals on the passenger side. I can't figure out how to work on the driver side though lots of stuff in the way. Not enough clearance to swing a hammer.
Good content 👌
I have never seen or heard of the clamp trick, pretty cool! I feel the same way about the removal/keeper-trapper (see what I did there?) tool. Half of it works great. A little dab of grease helps the keepers stay put during installation. I like almost all of Fel-Pro's gaskets, except valve cover gaskets. For a lot of Montero engines, 2.6, 3.0 in both configs, 3.5 in both configs, that I have experience with, they just don't fit very well. I'll spend more and go OEM on those. I like Timken for seals, so if I'm specifying cam seal replacement, I look for those first, for whatever reason. Great videos, thanks for linking it on FB, but I'm also subbed on here.
Although i don't have this exact engine, this is a great walkthrough and explanation of this job. I probably need to do this on my 04 gen 3 3.8l. Definitely not looking forward to it though.
yep same thing is happening on my 3.8. not looking forward to doing them
Bro, thank you for existing. You should wear a cape or be a Marvel Superhero. Captain Conrod.
Haha thanks man!
Alotta cranking & ratchet work going on. It is great to have a shop to do all that. Think so enough it will be spark plug & ignition coils.
Not sure if mine is burning oil,it was leaking oil from the camshaft seal and O-rings. Driver's valve cover rear differential fill plug. Working without the brass washer just fine
Can you just replace the seals or are the other ones necessary?
I am doing the valve seals on my 03 Montero 3.8L and I have a question; in the kit, there's 2 different colours of valve seals. I suspect the 2 different colours mean one colour is for intake and the other colour os for exhaust. Does anyone know which would be which?
Do these valve seals respond to any oil additive like in high mileage oil or other products?
The same goes for Delica and Express. Big issue. It can get so bad that the catalytic converter gets blocked up and the engine light comes on. Ask me how I know.....
yep, very common, and annoying
Would the blue smoke be only on cold starts? Or all the time? My 1998 montero sport consunes about 1 liter of oil every 2000km so i have to add 2 liters of oil if not 2.5 every 5000km oil change. I have 138 000 miles on my 25 year old engine. I dont see any oil on the ground but i have factory skid plates.
it is possible that the oil is leaking into the combustion chamber if it's only on start ups. as the engine warms up the rings seal better and would stop that, but it's also possible that as the motor sits and cools down the oil gets into the combustion chamber from the seals and is just more noticeable on cold starts rather than when it's already running
I need to do this but if im doing the head, what other places leak oil? I did cam seals already when i did the water pump
Rear cam seals would be good. And make sure to get oem valve cover gaskets.
I have a 2006 high mileage monteto with the 3.8l engine. It’s burning oil and I have been trying to track down the issue. I had been told already that it was probably bad valve seals and I actually already have fel pro seals in the mail along with plenum gaskets and valve cover gaskets. I just wanted to know if there is any way to be sure that’s the problem and it’s not rings or something else before I tear down the whole motor? I am hoping to take the top half of the motor off and do the valve seals without having to take apart the bottom half. At that point I probably wouldn’t want to stop there. I’d want to get it resurfaced / bored, replace the pistons rings stems and head gasket. Which is honestly more than I am trying to get in to. Is there any kind of test I can do to be sure it’s the valve seals and not the rings?
great question. it's nearly guaranteed that it has bad VSS. however, if you want to test for bad rings you can do a dry and "wet" compression test where you put a little oil into the cylinder and recheck compression. there are some helpful youtube videos that go over that. if you see a big change in compression you might also have bad rings. however these don't tend to wear our rings
how many miles can the rings go before they wear out. I have 1998 Montero Sport 3.0 24 valve with 138k miles. Oil changed every 5-6km
Besides coupling this with a new head gasket, any other work you could consider doing while the engine is cracked open?
good question. if you have the whole motor out, i'd say replace every wear item you can. If you have it in the car, and you pull the head i would do a quick valve clean and lap as well. nothing crazy, but it's nice to clean up that carbon in there
@@montanamontero If the head is off, then a valve lap
eseat is a must at this stage. Also check gasket surfaces for warp, and check valve guides and stems for wear. Inspect cylinder walls, check cam wear etc.
Good time to consider replacing the hydraulic lash adjusters. The best ones have a 3mm oiling hole. If you have any valve tick, this is the time to fix it.
So this is why nobody wants to touch my gen II 3.5?? Or is there another reason I'm missing? No dealers around and it's definitely smoking when running at idol for a while.
That's most likely why the engine does that. As to why nobody wants to work on it, that may be a regional thing. It's a fairly typical Japanese engine, so if there's a do-it-all Japanese import repair shop around, it should be run of the mill. If you're living in domestic truck areas of the country, such a shop could be tough to find.
Dude, how did you compress and remove your valve springs? Special tool?
yep special tool, worth every penny
@@montanamontero Just picked one up off of Amazon. Man your videos have been really helpful, thank you.
I own a 2005 Mitsubishi Montero over 300k miles, where can I buy a new engine or a rebuilt engine any suggestions
i do not, but i'm currently working on tracking one down as well
Is that mivec motor?
nope it's a 3.0 out of a montero sport
Too bad it ain’t a small block Chevy 😊 because valve seals can be done in a few hours 👊 ps I have a valve spring compressor
Worlds best valve seal is Viton® Valve Seals
Used on BMW and Chevy 👊
@@profharvester-5940 the Fel-Pro VSS he's talking about in the video are Viton seal material. The rest is just a metal shell.
@@JohnnyBfromPeoria I know