Very nice build Do you release the pressure from everything in this setup if you're parking overnight? I just did a similar setup, I don't really want to have to air up to start every ride but I'm worried about wear on the shocks or air tank from staying under pressure basically all the time. I don't know if that's a valid concern
This is what I used. www.grainger.com/product/4VPT3?RIID=65372072335&GID&mid=OrderConfirmation&rfe=6b178d762837ea2c1debc731a357b20f241928b41476aa424f522db168c72ec4&gcrfe=6b178d762837ea2c1debc731a357b20f241928b41476aa424f522db168c72ec4&gucid=EMT%3A10339122%3AItem%3ACSM-323&emcid=NA%3AItem
May be a strange question, but how do those switches dump? Been using your build for my plans, stuck between the manual switches or solenoids. Your way seems easier and more cost effective, just don't get how they dump.
I went back and forth on this too. I had a nice digital air suspension system on my Dodge Magnum years ago. It really boiled down to the fact that I didn't want to spend 1k+(I was looking at nice digital setups) for a golf cart and these switches take up less space than manifold+solenoids. On the back of the switches are 2 barbed fittings. The air inlet from the tank and outlet to the bag. IIRC, there is a small port on the switch that is the dump port, so they essentially dump right at the switch behind the dash. There is no routing the dump side anywhere else. In my Magnum, the manifold was in the car and ran the dump lines to the outside which made it quieter in the car and attention grabbing outside the car.
Great build! I have been following you along the way. I am in the middle of the doing the same. Just ordered tank compressor and shocks. Where did u get your air fittings and distribution block?
In my later videos I talk about my switch to 4 way control of the bags to combat body roll. This is the block I used. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WFT2SY9/ The reviews about leaks are very accurate. I found that fittings that come with a sealant applied work OK, but no amount of air fitting tape would save me on fittings with bare threads. I ended up putting an o-ring in the base before screwing on the larger fittings and the compression of the fitting onto the o-ring made a better seal. These fittings are what convert the threads on the shock to NPT www.grainger.com/product/4VPT3?RIID=65372072335&GID=&mid=OrderConfirmation&rfe=6b178d762837ea2c1debc731a357b20f241928b41476aa424f522db168c72ec4&gcrfe=6b178d762837ea2c1debc731a357b20f241928b41476aa424f522db168c72ec4&gucid=EMT:10339122:Item:CSM-323&emcid=NA:Item All of the other random fittings I ended up needing I sourced from here. www.myteeproducts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=DOT%20fittings
I’m a bit confused… what was accomplished by just spinning them around. I am about to weld the tabs on the front for the shocks and wasn’t sure what would be gained by doing that. Thanks for your insight. Btw. Can you snap a picture of how you moved the bottom front shock mount?
The MA705 shocks have a threaded end and mount the same way the stock stocks do. The lower mounts had to be cut off from the "axle", rotated 180 and chopped.
@@aberk20 Sorry, another random question. You have some of the plumbing and electrical behind the cowl. Do you have an easy way to access that if need be?
Very nice build
Do you release the pressure from everything in this setup if you're parking overnight? I just did a similar setup, I don't really want to have to air up to start every ride but I'm worried about wear on the shocks or air tank from staying under pressure basically all the time. I don't know if that's a valid concern
I leave it aired up. I've added air suspension to cars in the past and have always left them with air in the system.
@@aberk20 Perfect, thanks!
awesome build! Any chance you could tell me where you got the air shock adapter fittings from? cant seem to find the style you used
This is what I used. www.grainger.com/product/4VPT3?RIID=65372072335&GID&mid=OrderConfirmation&rfe=6b178d762837ea2c1debc731a357b20f241928b41476aa424f522db168c72ec4&gcrfe=6b178d762837ea2c1debc731a357b20f241928b41476aa424f522db168c72ec4&gucid=EMT%3A10339122%3AItem%3ACSM-323&emcid=NA%3AItem
May be a strange question, but how do those switches dump? Been using your build for my plans, stuck between the manual switches or solenoids. Your way seems easier and more cost effective, just don't get how they dump.
I went back and forth on this too. I had a nice digital air suspension system on my Dodge Magnum years ago. It really boiled down to the fact that I didn't want to spend 1k+(I was looking at nice digital setups) for a golf cart and these switches take up less space than manifold+solenoids.
On the back of the switches are 2 barbed fittings. The air inlet from the tank and outlet to the bag. IIRC, there is a small port on the switch that is the dump port, so they essentially dump right at the switch behind the dash. There is no routing the dump side anywhere else. In my Magnum, the manifold was in the car and ran the dump lines to the outside which made it quieter in the car and attention grabbing outside the car.
Great build! I have been following you along the way. I am in the middle of the doing the same. Just ordered tank compressor and shocks.
Where did u get your air fittings and distribution block?
In my later videos I talk about my switch to 4 way control of the bags to combat body roll. This is the block I used. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WFT2SY9/ The reviews about leaks are very accurate. I found that fittings that come with a sealant applied work OK, but no amount of air fitting tape would save me on fittings with bare threads. I ended up putting an o-ring in the base before screwing on the larger fittings and the compression of the fitting onto the o-ring made a better seal.
These fittings are what convert the threads on the shock to NPT www.grainger.com/product/4VPT3?RIID=65372072335&GID=&mid=OrderConfirmation&rfe=6b178d762837ea2c1debc731a357b20f241928b41476aa424f522db168c72ec4&gcrfe=6b178d762837ea2c1debc731a357b20f241928b41476aa424f522db168c72ec4&gucid=EMT:10339122:Item:CSM-323&emcid=NA:Item
All of the other random fittings I ended up needing I sourced from here. www.myteeproducts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=DOT%20fittings
@@aberk20 thank you for the insight. Good luck with the rest of your build. I look forward to seeing it.
@@brianewest good luck with your build!
Did you flip the front leaf springs?
I rotated them front to back and removed one of the leafs.
I’m a bit confused… what was accomplished by just spinning them around. I am about to weld the tabs on the front for the shocks and wasn’t sure what would be gained by doing that. Thanks for your insight.
Btw. Can you snap a picture of how you moved the bottom front shock mount?
Hey man, how did you mount the front shocks?
The MA705 shocks have a threaded end and mount the same way the stock stocks do. The lower mounts had to be cut off from the "axle", rotated 180 and chopped.
@@aberk20 Thanks for the reply. I see what you're saying. Did you re-weld the lower mount to the axle or bolt it up?
@@aberk20 Sorry, another random question. You have some of the plumbing and electrical behind the cowl. Do you have an easy way to access that if need be?
@@micahwells6021 Not really. I can kind of reach up there an get to the fuses, but the cowl would have to come off to do any substantial work.
@@aberk20 How did you attach the front shock tabs after you flipped them?