So i got a worksharp precision adjust for my birthday (thanks for putting up with my BS, wife!) And have laid back all of my few pocket and kitchen knives a few degrees now. Beyond that, i just got myself some 6 micron gunny juice today to further mirror my edgee and i have to say that both of these developments has really brought my edges to a new level. Because i only edc 2 knives, it is a nightly ritual for me to re-strop the daily knife in the after-bedtime hours i have to myself after the wife and baby are asleep. Your videos lead me to this zen dad place. Thank you!
Nice explaining 👌 I find my best edge to use, that takes the least maintenance with only strop and occasional hone is 20 degrees. Also keeping it around 1500 grit at the most seems to be less fragile. I made the mistake on my manix lightweight by putting a 17 degree/mirror edge then take it to work and lasted one day due to the edge being worthless for hard use. Almost seemed like I used aluminum foil 😂short story shorter, lesson learned and sticking with 20 ish degree edge for work daily carry and 17 for my house daily carry. 🤜💯🤛 tnxs for the video brother👊👊👊and yep, took my mental notes 📝 ✌✌your knowledge is awsome🤝🤝tnxa again
I only have one knife I regularly sharpen and it’s a cheap Walmart knife in 440 stainless(doesn’t specify a,b, or c) it’s thick and durable and I’ve always progressed it 1k, 2k and 5k. I like that it cuts poly flow, conveyor belts and cords but I’m gonna get a 600 grit stone and try out some lower grits to see what I like best.
I appreciate your explanation of the details and variances, grit vs edge angle etc. Sharpening has always been challenging for me. I’m looking at it differently after seeing this video. Thanks.
I have many different sharpening videos in my playlist, in all reality my favorite edge is a 600 grt edge because i love all the bite that it has, check out the sharpening playlist
Great examination and explanation of how intended use informs edge angle and grit level. I remember watching a sword sharpening video and learning that a sharp sword also needs to be durable so a steep angle is best. Same must go for axe edges too. Hard use needs a sturdy edge. On the other side of the spectrum a fine sushi knife can be a very shallow single bevel and mirror finish. Wow! Super delicate and very sharp.
Yes it does, however the geometry of the steel is what's important, so the thicker it is the tougher it is at what ever angle, for example a 15° edge will be brittle on a blade that's 10 thousands thick at the edge, however if the blade is 20 thousands + then 15° is not very brittle but it's very slicey, so there's a lot of variables with edge/blade geometry angles etc..
A scandi at 11dps is probably the most extreme example. Sharp as hell but not very great for carrots. Amazing wood carving bevel, though. Basically a chisel.@@NeevesKnives
I like a toothier edge too, when i get a new knife witch has a overly smooth edge i usualy run it past a ceramic rod a few passes, I hand sharpen witch gives me a more convex edge, a good convex edge is a thing of beauty.
All my new pocket knives are Spydercos with high carbide steels; they come from the factory with shallow angles, about 15%. So, I use my Spyderco Sharpmaker at 30% (aka 15% per side) with the Ultra Fine rods because I like the polished look of the bevel. So far as being sharp enough, the coarse brown rods are sufficient; I use them at 40% for soft steel kitchen knives that get banged around. But for light use EDC/TTC high quality Spydercos that I want to be useful showoff pieces, I like 30% with a polished bevel.
You make an excellent case of why the choice of edge angle and final grit is always a compromise. Sharpening every knife to a mirror finish - unless they are TTCs (love that term!) - is pointless if I wind up using my old Kershaw with a 600 grit edge because I don’t want to disturb the finish on a high-end knife I just spent two hours sharpening. Thanks again; your channel is my fave for solid dependable information.
Sometimes it depends on the steel and the stones so certain steels polish very quickly, the more polished the less grit, and grt helps you cut, some steels can handle a polish and still have micro grt which leaves a bite, and thats why in some cases the grt will be different, but diamond stones is what i was referring to
The sapphire lansky you showed I bought that and the mirror it gives from fine, extra fine , and then the sapphire is beautiful even on my m390 thanks for the recommendation
I've watched this video several times. The first time was when I first started sharpening. Over time I've had a chance to sharpen knives to a polish and also toothy. Polished looks really good and you can do really cool paper cutting tricks, but the toothy edge is really what a sharp EDC should be. This is a really informative video. Thanks!
I just started a join membership where I'm going to work with the members directly live that only they can join in on among other things, something to think about
Beautiful work brother love it when you just let your brains empty out it’s knowledge lol have a absolutely wonderful day both stay safe and healthy you two 🫵🏻😘👍🏼
I feel like my ideal knife has good toughness and only okay edge retention so that i can use a very acute angle grind, a polished edge, and enjoy regular stropping, because I legitimately ENJOY stropping
@@NeevesKnives so cool to be hearing directly from you, my dude! I am super excited to use my worksharp precision adjust that I'm getting next week to re-profile my Ocaso damascus solstice which has a damascus combo of n690 and notro B. My instinct is that the blade comes from-factory at a 20+ degree angle, but I will confirm that for myself once my precision adjust arrives. If my instincts are correct, I am excited to see what a more acute angle can do for such a low edge retention but high toughness combo!
I’ve been going with an 18 degree v grind to about 1000 grit and then a little stropping on most of my knives. It seems to work well for most everyday use.
I'll just keep throwing on the Worksharp 20-25 degree middling convex because for me the best edge is one I don't need to give a crap about and only need to spend 5 minutes to sharpen even if it eats up my knife over time.
I put a v edge on everything. I do 15-20 for a food knife and 20-30 for a more outdoor/edc knife. I put a mirror finish on what I want to look good and put a rough finish on knives that are just tools. I just live by the KISS mentality when it comes to knife edges. I’m sure we could talk for an hour or two about about why edges are better than others but my experience is in use, it’s hardly noticeable and comes down to just theory.
Exactly. I find the balance of what works best for the knife and use it. Most people just collect knives and never use them. My pocket knives get hit with a 300 grit to quickly get an edge, then hit it with a 600 and then hit it with the strop to clean it up. Razor sharp and ready to use again. Usually takes about 10 min all said and done.
Hello dear friend! I decided to write to you cause first i am a member, your the only 1 i sponsor monthly cause i think you are 1 or the best in what you do, and i wanted to give you a constructive opinion! I most of watch 70 - 80% of all your videos and made me a better sharpener (Doing a little buisness on the side) and buyer for my collection i am building. But sorry this video is not 1 of your best sadly :( I had to listen to it 3 times to understand what you were trying to explain to where you were going! Me i keep it simple, were talking only pocket knives here, i use my work sharp Elite Ken Onion grinding Edition and always start my knives at 20 degrees, starting at 400 grits (between 10-12 passes depending of the Bure and ending at 1000 grits with the Ken onion! After for quality and passion i do a 15 - 20 min with a wet stone of 2000 grits. Finaly I will strop slowly on a horse skin corse side first and finishing with the soft side! I am telling you not only they are razor sharp but very sturdy! I always carry 1 or to knives deep pocket (for the last month i am carying P135 and Phatara and beside a few ceramic rod pass here and there, my knives are always ready for work of almost any kind! So i understand more now your lesson now but still i think strongly that instead of a 24 min video you could of been more direct in explaining instead of mixing everything on 15 - 20 min max! Continue your great work your a pro in what your doing 100% !! P.S. It is sad that you dont do and accept sail in Canada cause i would of love to buy 1 or 2 of your great T-SHIRTS and Hoodies and plus that i cant never participate in any give aways!! Sincerly Frank from th deep north!
Good that you described grit, but maybe the next video talk to angles as well. I.e. 20 ~ 25 degrees bevel (each side) for EDC 19 and below for your kitchen knives??
You say a lower grit edge requires more honing. The video I saw you were using Lansky fine and ultrafine stones to do that. How does a high grit stone restore a toothy edge?? I can see the ruby stone doing it as you said the rubies will can be felt so I can see how they would help restore toothiness. For honing with a ceramic rod what grit as I can't really feel any difference in them??
Because im not trying to sharpen im only trying to realine the edge, now i might drop down to a hard Arkansas but usually i can do it with the lansky since im not removing steel just forming it, now if theres a chip then it takes some sharpening no matter what usually its the teeth moved
I would go between 600 and 1000 grit, that way you have plenty of bite, however the angle of the edge will be even more important, but that would depend on the blade and it's thickness usually 17° is a good angle in many cases for that kind of use
I have a Boker/Burnley Stubby Kwaiken in S35VN and sharpened it to 15° and at 200 grit for edc. What would you say would be advantages and drawbacks to this?
I'm not sure what the thickness bte is, but I'd imagine your edge retention and cutting performance would go up, the edge toughness would go down but I don't think you care to much about edge toughness on a knife like that, 200 grit will be a toothy edge, with good burr removal it should be a fantastic working edge with a lot of bite, if it's very thick bte the bevel might look quite large but that could look good or bad depending on who's judging.
@@NeevesKnives Haha. I don’t Care what it looks like to anyone but myself. If it was a safe queen I might put a mirror edge. I do a lot of pruning of small twigs and branches of potted collector plants. A knife wasn’t really designed for that work but I like using one. Many of my very sharp knives have a lot of trouble cutting perpendicular on small woody twigs so I can get right up to the node. The glassy blades SUCK at the job. The other things I do are cardboard and paper and both of those do better with a blade with “chomp”. The start of the cuts are really easy. I just finished up putting a 15 on my D2 Odium with 400 grit on my Wicked Edge and really like the results. Just a hair popping as it would be with a mirror but with bite. Looks like 400 may be my finishing stone for many of my working knives! I can barely run my fingers over the apex without slicing skin. I need to put a lot more pressure on my mirror edges to slice skin. I can confirm what you have been saying all along about finishing many knives with a course to medium grit and a bit of light stropping. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience with us.
hello , sorry my english is lo ;) ) my question the all blade of my knife as a certain angle already from the back to the beginning of the edge , so the angle should be calculate .... how to ??
I mostly sharpen my knives @19° perside to about 1200 grit and finish it with 9 micron Gunny Juice strop. 19° is a good all rounder imo of strength, sliceyness and not raising the cutting edge bevel too high making your knife look ugly. I mostly own and use M390/20cv blades and find it to do quite well
I guess there's a misunderstanding because I take "every day carry" to mean a defensive weapon. For someone like me, who doesn't use my EDC for things around the house, the knife has only one purpose, to slice an attacker's neck and inner leg arteries open. So I'm after a scalpel edge, something used only once.
Everyday carry ties to anything you carry daily on your person, if that's self defense tools then that's still your edc, but your wallet and keys are also part of that
Fair enough. Since my edc will not be used for household applications I decided to just hire a mobile knife sharpening service to come to my house and sharpen it along with the household knives, rather buying a sharpening kit and having to learn all about it. @@NeevesKnives
I'm new to sharpening. Most of my knife use is at work, stripping large elec cable insulation , hard plastic I guess you'd call it. Do I want polished or toothy edge. I would guess toothy. I have learned to use the work sharp precision angle sharpener . I use the 600 grit and ceramic until it cuts paper , then a bunch of stropping with the green paste that came with my strop. Will this method give me a polished or toothy edge, and using this method , how do I get a toothy edge.
If you spend a long time with ceramic like a real long time it will polish, there should be another stone before the ceramic to make it faster and easier, if you just finish on the 600grt and de burr with the ceramic, you will have a toothy edge, with is a fantastic edge, also different steels polish differently, but a 600 grt is a good toothy edge on all steels and will work great, you can use that same stone to de burr or the ceramic
25 degrees is what I have on my titanium 20cv Bugout I use daily at work. (Landscaping) I feel like it’s perfect. I had it at 20 but it chipped easily. If all you cut is cardboard I think 17-20 is perfect
Its not just about the angle its also the grt, but imho if 20° is to chippy on a bugout and 25° is what your using then you probably need a harder use knife for what your doing and possibly a convexed edge, I did landscaping for a long time myself, but on my daily i cut many different things, from straps, ropes, cardboard, plastic, cloth, even wood although wood isnt usually very hard on a knife unless your chopping. But hey what ever works for ya. Even most factory edges come at 20-22° for strength, and in many cases its the hrc that can be a huge difference or just the ht period
@@NeevesKnives I think so too! Awesome knife. Although I’m really digging the DPX hest for work right now. I’ve been rotating out the code 4, Hest, and ZT-0566 for the last month
Hey! What’s your opinion on a 25 degree angle on an M390 blade, I normally just landscape so I need to know the perfect angle, should I make it 25 or go towards 22? I use 800 grit stones to finish my blade
There's no perfect angle, there's lots of factors. Kind of like saying the perfect knife. Between 17 and 20° is usually a good angle, the higher the angle the tougher the edge, the lower the angle the sharper or slicier if you want something slicey and tough go with 20. Also 22.5° can be a good angle for many. How thick the edge is also is a factor
If your wanting more durability at the apex then a microbevel is a good idea, especially with very hard steels at low angles like 15°, if your experiencing micro chipping then I'd definitely do that, or to prevent them
I need your address again so I can ship you my eklipse and my no chloil slicer. I want to send this week. The xm-18 is battle black with black canvas and green hardware. Both on broken in Teflon.
True, but some do especially if it's 15° on a knife that's a bit thick bte and can whittle a hair but yes I agree a polished edge is more eye appealing to the majority
I figured it out. Bought a shaman instead. The shaman has been pretty cool. A nice balance of blade to handle, especially with big hands. Easy to choke up, and get some decent work done. The shaman is very close to my ideal folder. I scale swapped it and found out that zirc is not meant for that knife. The scales doubled the weight of the knife. It looks cool as all hell. But, changed the nature entirely. The original ability to get close in, and really dig into detail work is gone. This thing is tail heavy in the extreme. It is weird to hold it anywhere but all of the way back. Contoured ti scales, maybe with a relieved back, sound better towards overall balance, if you want some bling. Canvas micarta would be the most sensible choice of scale. The original was too slick. Metal scales are too heavy. I'm going to keep mine, all whored up, as a reminder not to act too fast. It has been a long two weeks in my knife collection...
The word you’re looking for is “bevel.” Adding a second bevel increases the strength of the edge but I don’t think it holds the edge as long. I personally don’t mess with second bevels.
ONE WEEK, EACH DAY THEY HAD US DO 48000KG BETWEEN THE 4 OF US BUTCHERS… THERE WERE 50 ‘GRINDERS’ FOR SAUSAGE/BURGER PRODUCTS AND 70 PACKAGERS…. 4 .. BUTCHERS 😂
I'm guessing you meant "everyday USE" as you aren't nd donm't actually carry them in public right?? Blade length laws and all in most sttes....Canada the same...don't kow what the penalty is for carrying an illegal knife in public...
Does most of you wear on your edge come from damage? Because if not the whole statement about what lasts longer is factually wrong. Alot of tests have shown that a coarser edge has better edge retention on almost any steel. Same thing with a lower angle. A higher angle gives you more edge stability but cuts significantly less if not damaged. Also I don't know about the "a finer finish takes less damage" I've seen some tests that showed no real difference between toothy and polished when it comes to damage. So have you actually looked at tests and researched this stuff or is this what just seems logical to you? Also I don't think 15 is the lowest you can or should go. I have AUS-8 at about 13 degrees holding up to everything.
No this is from my tests and many others even cedric and ada said he gets the best cut tests with edge retention from a higher grt, and im basing it completely off my own experience, and the angle thing, a convex edge is stronger than a v grind and an angle at 25° is a stronger edge than 5° I think that is simple, its thicker steel but something thinner will go through material better than something thicker. But no i didnt just think about this, if your experience is different then i cant speak on that, I sharpen knives every day and work with knives daily, so im basing it off of my own results, also i didn't get into steel, hrc, heat treat so all of that plays a factor as well
And im talking about wear or damage but certain damage will happen regardless to any edge, but i did a video on different steels and what grt is better for each steel based on my own experience
But i can pretty much guarantee if you sharpen a knife at 200 grt and another at 800 grt or higher then cut 50 ft of cardboard the 800 grt edge will still cut paper cleaner than the 200grt
@@NeevesKnives yes a lower edge angle gives you a stronger edge but stronger doesn't mean more edge retention. Lower angles give you more edge retention. Alot of tests have shown this. Pete, Larrin Thomas and others have tested it.. If you say your own tests.. what tests have you done? Because every day work just doesn't count. Maybe some edges work better for what you do but that doesn't universally apply obviously.. but you said "alot of this is facts" Damage will not just happen to any edge.. it depends on what you cut. Like I said alot of tests from people like larrin thomas and super steel steve have shown that coarser edges hold up better on most steels BUT not if it's too coarse. The sweet spot is usually around 400-600 grit. 200 grit is too coarse so yea maybe the 800 would cut cleaner through paper. On most steels there probably also isn't a big difference between 400 and 800. I'm talking more about 600 to 2000-3000 grit edges. Maybe you cut alot off plastic or something because that's a material where I can see a fine edge holding up better but on cardboard or rope a coarser edge should generally do better. I personally just don't value personal experience from edc alot.. I valued controlled tests.
@@camorakidd_edc i said alot of this is my own opinion i some is facts, and with the angle i was talking about strength, thats why i said harder on your edge, and as for grit, Im speaking from my own experience and i did say theres lots of variables, and if you watch my video on different steels and edges youd see i went through my experience with different steels, and mostly i cut straps ropes cardboard, plastic wood exc.., and in my experience many steels edges hold up best between 400-2500 grt, 17°angle and 20° angle depending on how hard you are on your knife, I agree that to high of a grt doesnt do as good as lower i said that its a balance and to high doesnt cut as good and can be weaker, and to low cuts good but needs to be stropped and or honed a bit more, I cant speak on other peoples tests or what they have gotten, I can only speak on what i do and the edges i use, and you asking me what tests just day to day use, no i dont film tests, no i havent counted cuts, this is all imho. When i say tests im talking about the work i do and the edges i sharpen to do them, maybe if all i did was cut card board i might have different results, but i cut lots of different things in a day, I go from one material to another. Im speaking completely on basic edc use, now if i did a complete cut test cutting one thing maybe it would be different idk
@@NeevesKnives,… not your problem, mine. I just needed to better understand before buying the last Venev. I had a “coarse” (45micron/350grit-mesh)), “fine” (25micron/600grit-mesh), “extra-fine” (9micron/1200 grit-mesh),,, all DMT Dia-Sharp. Then last week I purchased, an 800+1,200 two sided Phoenix Venev which I probably blew it because that over-laps the Extra-Fine DMT? All are 8X3”. Nobody ever accused me of being smart.
@@Doc.Holiday you can look up grit into microns on Google, coarse is usually under 400 grit medium is usually around 600 grit and fine is 1000 and up extra fine is usually over 1200 but can be up to 2000 grt, although with venev their 1200 is around 5k grit,
@@NeevesKnives … I received the above micron/grit conversions from the DMT page. So, the Venev is much finer…. It feels like it. I’ll put them it to work laying back the edge on a new Riffle when I find the time next day or two. Will advise. Thanks for your help.
So i got a worksharp precision adjust for my birthday (thanks for putting up with my BS, wife!) And have laid back all of my few pocket and kitchen knives a few degrees now. Beyond that, i just got myself some 6 micron gunny juice today to further mirror my edgee and i have to say that both of these developments has really brought my edges to a new level. Because i only edc 2 knives, it is a nightly ritual for me to re-strop the daily knife in the after-bedtime hours i have to myself after the wife and baby are asleep.
Your videos lead me to this zen dad place. Thank you!
This is great! I haven’t even started sharpening (waiting on my field sharpener), and I’m not a dad, but I’m with you in the “zen” state 😊
Fantastic explanation of the trade-offs between grit, edge geometry, cutting ability, and edge durability. Learning a lot from you. Thanks so much.
Thank you for the clarification! I cut zip ties etc. Im going with 600 at 20 degrees
Wow there's so much more to knife sharpening than I knew. Very good information.
This may just be the most generally useful video for new sharpeners I've seen.
Thanks bud theres a lot of variables so it can be difficult to talk about
I like the low grit (600) too. It’s super sharp… like you said great bite.
Nice explaining 👌 I find my best edge to use, that takes the least maintenance with only strop and occasional hone is 20 degrees. Also keeping it around 1500 grit at the most seems to be less fragile. I made the mistake on my manix lightweight by putting a 17 degree/mirror edge then take it to work and lasted one day due to the edge being worthless for hard use. Almost seemed like I used aluminum foil 😂short story shorter, lesson learned and sticking with 20 ish degree edge for work daily carry and 17 for my house daily carry. 🤜💯🤛 tnxs for the video brother👊👊👊and yep, took my mental notes 📝 ✌✌your knowledge is awsome🤝🤝tnxa again
Yeah some steels definitely do better at different grts and depending on what your doing the angle of your edge can be very important
I only have one knife I regularly sharpen and it’s a cheap Walmart knife in 440 stainless(doesn’t specify a,b, or c) it’s thick and durable and I’ve always progressed it 1k, 2k and 5k. I like that it cuts poly flow, conveyor belts and cords but I’m gonna get a 600 grit stone and try out some lower grits to see what I like best.
I appreciate your explanation of the details and variances, grit vs edge angle etc. Sharpening has always been challenging for me. I’m looking at it differently after seeing this video. Thanks.
I have many different sharpening videos in my playlist, in all reality my favorite edge is a 600 grt edge because i love all the bite that it has, check out the sharpening playlist
Great examination and explanation of how intended use informs edge angle and grit level. I remember watching a sword sharpening video and learning that a sharp sword also needs to be durable so a steep angle is best. Same must go for axe edges too. Hard use needs a sturdy edge. On the other side of the spectrum a fine sushi knife can be a very shallow single bevel and mirror finish. Wow! Super delicate and very sharp.
Yes it does, however the geometry of the steel is what's important, so the thicker it is the tougher it is at what ever angle, for example a 15° edge will be brittle on a blade that's 10 thousands thick at the edge, however if the blade is 20 thousands + then 15° is not very brittle but it's very slicey, so there's a lot of variables with edge/blade geometry angles etc..
A scandi at 11dps is probably the most extreme example. Sharp as hell but not very great for carrots. Amazing wood carving bevel, though. Basically a chisel.@@NeevesKnives
I like a toothier edge too, when i get a new knife witch has a overly smooth edge i usualy run it past a ceramic rod a few passes,
I hand sharpen witch gives me a more convex edge, a good convex edge is a thing of beauty.
Yeah factory edges usually spend to much time on a stropping wheel thats why the edges can be slick at a low grit
Awesome Video ! Thank you so much for the detailed explanation!
All my new pocket knives are Spydercos with high carbide steels; they come from the factory with shallow angles, about 15%. So, I use my Spyderco Sharpmaker at 30% (aka 15% per side) with the Ultra Fine rods because I like the polished look of the bevel. So far as being sharp enough, the coarse brown rods are sufficient; I use them at 40% for soft steel kitchen knives that get banged around. But for light use EDC/TTC high quality Spydercos that I want to be useful showoff pieces, I like 30% with a polished bevel.
You make an excellent case of why the choice of edge angle and final grit is always a compromise. Sharpening every knife to a mirror finish - unless they are TTCs (love that term!) - is pointless if I wind up using my old Kershaw with a 600 grit edge because I don’t want to disturb the finish on a high-end knife I just spent two hours sharpening. Thanks again; your channel is my fave for solid dependable information.
👊
T.T.C.: Table Top Carry! 😂😂😂😂
Great information. Have wondered at what point the polish undermines the actual cutting performance. Thanks for the continuing sharpening videos!
Sometimes it depends on the steel and the stones so certain steels polish very quickly, the more polished the less grit, and grt helps you cut, some steels can handle a polish and still have micro grt which leaves a bite, and thats why in some cases the grt will be different, but diamond stones is what i was referring to
The sapphire lansky you showed I bought that and the mirror it gives from fine, extra fine , and then the sapphire is beautiful even on my m390 thanks for the recommendation
No problem i love those stones the are very useful and put a nice mirror
I've watched this video several times. The first time was when I first started sharpening. Over time I've had a chance to sharpen knives to a polish and also toothy. Polished looks really good and you can do really cool paper cutting tricks, but the toothy edge is really what a sharp EDC should be. This is a really informative video. Thanks!
I just started a join membership where I'm going to work with the members directly live that only they can join in on among other things, something to think about
Beautiful work brother love it when you just let your brains empty out it’s knowledge lol have a absolutely wonderful day both stay safe and healthy you two 🫵🏻😘👍🏼
Dude you know your stuff !
Thank you
You taught me a good bit with this video.
What is the knife that has never knives on the blade?
I feel like my ideal knife has good toughness and only okay edge retention so that i can use a very acute angle grind, a polished edge, and enjoy regular stropping, because I legitimately ENJOY stropping
There's a lot of tough steels with great edge retention that love low angle edges with polish, Cruwear is one great example but there's many more
@@NeevesKnives so cool to be hearing directly from you, my dude! I am super excited to use my worksharp precision adjust that I'm getting next week to re-profile my Ocaso damascus solstice which has a damascus combo of n690 and notro B. My instinct is that the blade comes from-factory at a 20+ degree angle, but I will confirm that for myself once my precision adjust arrives. If my instincts are correct, I am excited to see what a more acute angle can do for such a low edge retention but high toughness combo!
The great tips just keep on coming! ✌️
I’ve been going with an 18 degree v grind to about 1000 grit and then a little stropping on most of my knives. It seems to work well for most everyday use.
yeah, I find 18.5 to be a good in between in varying grits. but for hard work, I do a 22° edge at 600-800
I'll just keep throwing on the Worksharp 20-25 degree middling convex because for me the best edge is one I don't need to give a crap about and only need to spend 5 minutes to sharpen even if it eats up my knife over time.
There ya go 👍 gotta use what works best for ya
I put a v edge on everything. I do 15-20 for a food knife and 20-30 for a more outdoor/edc knife. I put a mirror finish on what I want to look good and put a rough finish on knives that are just tools.
I just live by the KISS mentality when it comes to knife edges. I’m sure we could talk for an hour or two about about why edges are better than others but my experience is in use, it’s hardly noticeable and comes down to just theory.
Exactly. I find the balance of what works best for the knife and use it. Most people just collect knives and never use them.
My pocket knives get hit with a 300 grit to quickly get an edge, then hit it with a 600 and then hit it with the strop to clean it up. Razor sharp and ready to use again.
Usually takes about 10 min all said and done.
I see a Kizer Clutch in that opening lineup. AWESOME knife!
My EDC is a Kiser Clutch. I love this knife.
20cv, 18 degrees at 600 grit. Light polish (basically knocking of the burr) on ceramic.
Hello dear friend! I decided to write to you cause first i am a member, your the only 1 i sponsor monthly cause i think you are 1 or the best in what you do, and i wanted to give you a constructive opinion! I most of watch 70 - 80% of all your videos and made me a better sharpener (Doing a little buisness on the side) and buyer for my collection i am building. But sorry this video is not 1 of your best sadly :( I had to listen to it 3 times to understand what you were trying to explain to where you were going! Me i keep it simple, were talking only pocket knives here, i use my work sharp Elite Ken Onion grinding Edition and always start my knives at 20 degrees, starting at 400 grits (between 10-12 passes depending of the Bure and ending at 1000 grits with the Ken onion! After for quality and passion i do a 15 - 20 min with a wet stone of 2000 grits. Finaly I will strop slowly on a horse skin corse side first and finishing with the soft side! I am telling you not only they are razor sharp but very sturdy! I always carry 1 or to knives deep pocket (for the last month i am carying P135 and Phatara and beside a few ceramic rod pass here and there, my knives are always ready for work of almost any kind! So i understand more now your lesson now but still i think strongly that instead of a 24 min video you could of been more direct in explaining instead of mixing everything on 15 - 20 min max! Continue your great work your a pro in what your doing 100% !! P.S. It is sad that you dont do and accept sail in Canada cause i would of love to buy 1 or 2 of your great T-SHIRTS and Hoodies and plus that i cant never participate in any give aways!! Sincerly Frank from th deep north!
Excellent info! Great video 👍
Are all them knives carried on your left pocket. Just looking at the clip and where the blade opens at.
Good that you described grit, but maybe the next video talk to angles as well. I.e. 20 ~ 25 degrees bevel (each side) for EDC 19 and below for your kitchen knives??
Absolutely great idea bud 👍
Very interesting and informative video thanks.
You say a lower grit edge requires more honing. The video I saw you were using Lansky fine and ultrafine stones to do that. How does a high grit stone restore a toothy edge?? I can see the ruby stone doing it as you said the rubies will can be felt so I can see how they would help restore toothiness. For honing with a ceramic rod what grit as I can't really feel any difference in them??
Because im not trying to sharpen im only trying to realine the edge, now i might drop down to a hard Arkansas but usually i can do it with the lansky since im not removing steel just forming it, now if theres a chip then it takes some sharpening no matter what usually its the teeth moved
Spot on 🔪👍🏻
I know this is an old video but what was that thumbstud add-on you had on the jade elemntum?
This is real good information thx
So just for cutting meat for example fish, chicken,beef for prep work what angle and grit would be best?
I would go between 600 and 1000 grit, that way you have plenty of bite, however the angle of the edge will be even more important, but that would depend on the blade and it's thickness usually 17° is a good angle in many cases for that kind of use
What about a 17 degree convex at 6000?
Thanks!
Hey Thank you 👊
I have a Boker/Burnley Stubby Kwaiken in S35VN and sharpened it to 15° and at 200 grit for edc. What would you say would be advantages and drawbacks to this?
I'm not sure what the thickness bte is, but I'd imagine your edge retention and cutting performance would go up, the edge toughness would go down but I don't think you care to much about edge toughness on a knife like that, 200 grit will be a toothy edge, with good burr removal it should be a fantastic working edge with a lot of bite, if it's very thick bte the bevel might look quite large but that could look good or bad depending on who's judging.
@@NeevesKnives Haha. I don’t Care what it looks like to anyone but myself. If it was a safe queen I might put a mirror edge. I do a lot of pruning of small twigs and branches of potted collector plants. A knife wasn’t really designed for that work but I like using one. Many of my very sharp knives have a lot of trouble cutting perpendicular on small woody twigs so I can get right up to the node. The glassy blades SUCK at the job. The other things I do are cardboard and paper and both of those do better with a blade with “chomp”. The start of the cuts are really easy.
I just finished up putting a 15 on my D2 Odium with 400 grit on my Wicked Edge and really like the results. Just a hair popping as it would be with a mirror but with bite. Looks like 400 may be my finishing stone for many of my working knives! I can barely run my fingers over the apex without slicing skin. I need to put a lot more pressure on my mirror edges to slice skin.
I can confirm what you have been saying all along about finishing many knives with a course to medium grit and a bit of light stropping. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience with us.
hello , sorry my english is lo ;) ) my question the all blade of my knife as a certain angle already from the back to the beginning of the edge , so the angle should be calculate .... how to ??
I mostly sharpen my knives @19° perside to about 1200 grit and finish it with 9 micron Gunny Juice strop.
19° is a good all rounder imo of strength, sliceyness and not raising the cutting edge bevel too high making your knife look ugly.
I mostly own and use M390/20cv blades and find it to do quite well
Very informative ty 🤙🤙
Brilliant
I guess there's a misunderstanding because I take "every day carry" to mean a defensive weapon. For someone like me, who doesn't use my EDC for things around the house, the knife has only one purpose, to slice an attacker's neck and inner leg arteries open. So I'm after a scalpel edge, something used only once.
Everyday carry ties to anything you carry daily on your person, if that's self defense tools then that's still your edc, but your wallet and keys are also part of that
Fair enough. Since my edc will not be used for household applications I decided to just hire a mobile knife sharpening service to come to my house and sharpen it along with the household knives, rather buying a sharpening kit and having to learn all about it. @@NeevesKnives
I think the term EDC became popular specifically to differentiate regular folk from the self defense tactical crowd. So this is funny and ironic.
I'm new to sharpening. Most of my knife use is at work, stripping large elec cable insulation , hard plastic I guess you'd call it. Do I want polished or toothy edge. I would guess toothy. I have learned to use the work sharp precision angle sharpener . I use the 600 grit and ceramic until it cuts paper , then a bunch of stropping with the green paste that came with my strop. Will this method give me a polished or toothy edge, and using this method , how do I get a toothy edge.
If you spend a long time with ceramic like a real long time it will polish, there should be another stone before the ceramic to make it faster and easier, if you just finish on the 600grt and de burr with the ceramic, you will have a toothy edge, with is a fantastic edge, also different steels polish differently, but a 600 grt is a good toothy edge on all steels and will work great, you can use that same stone to de burr or the ceramic
Watch the end of this video about de burring I've explained it in many videos but this is most resent.
czcams.com/video/OwHThdOc06U/video.html
25 degrees is what I have on my titanium 20cv Bugout I use daily at work. (Landscaping) I feel like it’s perfect. I had it at 20 but it chipped easily. If all you cut is cardboard I think 17-20 is perfect
Its not just about the angle its also the grt, but imho if 20° is to chippy on a bugout and 25° is what your using then you probably need a harder use knife for what your doing and possibly a convexed edge, I did landscaping for a long time myself, but on my daily i cut many different things, from straps, ropes, cardboard, plastic, cloth, even wood although wood isnt usually very hard on a knife unless your chopping. But hey what ever works for ya. Even most factory edges come at 20-22° for strength, and in many cases its the hrc that can be a huge difference or just the ht period
@@NeevesKnives agreed man. I use the cold steel code 4 for the heavier duty stuff
@@optimuscrime608 thats a great knife, perfect for hard use and still slicey definitely one of the best work knives out there
@@NeevesKnives I think so too! Awesome knife. Although I’m really digging the DPX hest for work right now. I’ve been rotating out the code 4, Hest, and ZT-0566 for the last month
@@optimuscrime608 nice! All great knives
I just want my knives to cut like my spyderco rock jumper. Any advice on angle and grit? S30v...also which sharpener?
Between 17-20° angle, s30 v does great at any grit so you can go with 600grt for toothy or go all the to polish
1:40 Jarrod has been bailing hay with no gloves. My man!
Gloves are for sissies lol
Just use a piece of 600 piece of wet / dry sandpaper or finer. 1200 to finish.
Hey! What’s your opinion on a 25 degree angle on an M390 blade, I normally just landscape so I need to know the perfect angle, should I make it 25 or go towards 22?
I use 800 grit stones to finish my blade
There's no perfect angle, there's lots of factors. Kind of like saying the perfect knife. Between 17 and 20° is usually a good angle, the higher the angle the tougher the edge, the lower the angle the sharper or slicier if you want something slicey and tough go with 20. Also 22.5° can be a good angle for many. How thick the edge is also is a factor
what if i sharpen on 15degree edge mirror edge with 17 degree microbevel with compound grit 600 and 1500? (or 17 degree edge abd 20 degree microbevel)
If your wanting more durability at the apex then a microbevel is a good idea, especially with very hard steels at low angles like 15°, if your experiencing micro chipping then I'd definitely do that, or to prevent them
17.75 is where it's at
I guess it depends on if you cut anything at all with your knife or just look at it.
FACTS!
I need your address again so I can ship you my eklipse and my no chloil slicer. I want to send this week. The xm-18 is battle black with black canvas and green hardware. Both on broken in Teflon.
Lower grits may cut better but they don't impress your coworkers the way a 15 degree mirror edge does. (Implying they care)
True, but some do especially if it's 15° on a knife that's a bit thick bte and can whittle a hair but yes I agree a polished edge is more eye appealing to the majority
What is the name of the knife on the bottom left?
I figured it out.
Bought a shaman instead. The shaman has been pretty cool. A nice balance of blade to handle, especially with big hands. Easy to choke up, and get some decent work done. The shaman is very close to my ideal folder.
I scale swapped it and found out that zirc is not meant for that knife. The scales doubled the weight of the knife. It looks cool as all hell. But, changed the nature entirely. The original ability to get close in, and really dig into detail work is gone. This thing is tail heavy in the extreme. It is weird to hold it anywhere but all of the way back.
Contoured ti scales, maybe with a relieved back, sound better towards overall balance, if you want some bling.
Canvas micarta would be the most sensible choice of scale. The original was too slick. Metal scales are too heavy.
I'm going to keep mine, all whored up, as a reminder not to act too fast.
It has been a long two weeks in my knife collection...
A 2240 angle 📐 plus a triple angle with 45 to 50?
😆 id like to see that
@@NeevesKnives hahahaha yeah buddy come on yo I’m going to visit you guys!!!!!
What is up with second bebbles?
?
@@NeevesKnives I have heard that putting a second bebel or bebbel gives more strength to the edge
The word you’re looking for is “bevel.” Adding a second bevel increases the strength of the edge but I don’t think it holds the edge as long. I personally don’t mess with second bevels.
The steeper the angle the finer the grit
Not necessarily the angle and grt are two different things, the grt is the finish on the edge, and the angle is the angle & size of the edge bevel
PUT A 10K, 10 DEGREE CONVEX EDGE LIKE ON MY BONING KNIFE, XCHEF, XBUTCHER… NOW .. IM HERE… A POCKET BLADE WITH CPM154, IT SUCKS. 😂
ONE WEEK, EACH DAY THEY HAD US DO 48000KG BETWEEN THE 4 OF US BUTCHERS… THERE WERE 50 ‘GRINDERS’ FOR SAUSAGE/BURGER PRODUCTS AND 70 PACKAGERS…. 4 .. BUTCHERS 😂
I'm guessing you meant "everyday USE" as you aren't nd donm't actually carry them in public right?? Blade length laws and all in most sttes....Canada the same...don't kow what the penalty is for carrying an illegal knife in public...
Lmao at TTC
Does most of you wear on your edge come from damage? Because if not the whole statement about what lasts longer is factually wrong. Alot of tests have shown that a coarser edge has better edge retention on almost any steel. Same thing with a lower angle. A higher angle gives you more edge stability but cuts significantly less if not damaged. Also I don't know about the "a finer finish takes less damage" I've seen some tests that showed no real difference between toothy and polished when it comes to damage.
So have you actually looked at tests and researched this stuff or is this what just seems logical to you?
Also I don't think 15 is the lowest you can or should go. I have AUS-8 at about 13 degrees holding up to everything.
No this is from my tests and many others even cedric and ada said he gets the best cut tests with edge retention from a higher grt, and im basing it completely off my own experience, and the angle thing, a convex edge is stronger than a v grind and an angle at 25° is a stronger edge than 5° I think that is simple, its thicker steel but something thinner will go through material better than something thicker. But no i didnt just think about this, if your experience is different then i cant speak on that, I sharpen knives every day and work with knives daily, so im basing it off of my own results, also i didn't get into steel, hrc, heat treat so all of that plays a factor as well
And im talking about wear or damage but certain damage will happen regardless to any edge, but i did a video on different steels and what grt is better for each steel based on my own experience
But i can pretty much guarantee if you sharpen a knife at 200 grt and another at 800 grt or higher then cut 50 ft of cardboard the 800 grt edge will still cut paper cleaner than the 200grt
@@NeevesKnives yes a lower edge angle gives you a stronger edge but stronger doesn't mean more edge retention. Lower angles give you more edge retention. Alot of tests have shown this. Pete, Larrin Thomas and others have tested it..
If you say your own tests.. what tests have you done? Because every day work just doesn't count. Maybe some edges work better for what you do but that doesn't universally apply obviously.. but you said "alot of this is facts"
Damage will not just happen to any edge.. it depends on what you cut.
Like I said alot of tests from people like larrin thomas and super steel steve have shown that coarser edges hold up better on most steels BUT not if it's too coarse. The sweet spot is usually around 400-600 grit. 200 grit is too coarse so yea maybe the 800 would cut cleaner through paper. On most steels there probably also isn't a big difference between 400 and 800. I'm talking more about 600 to 2000-3000 grit edges. Maybe you cut alot off plastic or something because that's a material where I can see a fine edge holding up better but on cardboard or rope a coarser edge should generally do better. I personally just don't value personal experience from edc alot.. I valued controlled tests.
@@camorakidd_edc i said alot of this is my own opinion i some is facts, and with the angle i was talking about strength, thats why i said harder on your edge, and as for grit, Im speaking from my own experience and i did say theres lots of variables, and if you watch my video on different steels and edges youd see i went through my experience with different steels, and mostly i cut straps ropes cardboard, plastic wood exc.., and in my experience many steels edges hold up best between 400-2500 grt, 17°angle and 20° angle depending on how hard you are on your knife, I agree that to high of a grt doesnt do as good as lower i said that its a balance and to high doesnt cut as good and can be weaker, and to low cuts good but needs to be stropped and or honed a bit more, I cant speak on other peoples tests or what they have gotten, I can only speak on what i do and the edges i use, and you asking me what tests just day to day use, no i dont film tests, no i havent counted cuts, this is all imho. When i say tests im talking about the work i do and the edges i sharpen to do them, maybe if all i did was cut card board i might have different results, but i cut lots of different things in a day, I go from one material to another. Im speaking completely on basic edc use, now if i did a complete cut test cutting one thing maybe it would be different idk
This is the truth - finishing on anything higher than 600 grit is just ugly and shouldn’t be allowd. Just don’t do it.
I am no one s[pecia; been called special though
can nt afford to follow all you stuff, But cool.
Grit conversion to micron converted to coarse/fine/extra fine/extra extra fine…. It pains me between my ears!
Sorry 😆
@@NeevesKnives,… not your problem, mine. I just needed to better understand before buying the last Venev. I had a “coarse” (45micron/350grit-mesh)), “fine” (25micron/600grit-mesh), “extra-fine” (9micron/1200 grit-mesh),,, all DMT Dia-Sharp. Then last week I purchased, an 800+1,200 two sided Phoenix Venev which I probably blew it because that over-laps the Extra-Fine DMT? All are 8X3”. Nobody ever accused me of being smart.
@@Doc.Holiday you can look up grit into microns on Google, coarse is usually under 400 grit medium is usually around 600 grit and fine is 1000 and up extra fine is usually over 1200 but can be up to 2000 grt, although with venev their 1200 is around 5k grit,
@@NeevesKnives … I received the above micron/grit conversions from the DMT page. So, the Venev is much finer…. It feels like it. I’ll put them it to work laying back the edge on a new Riffle when I find the time next day or two. Will advise. Thanks for your help.