2011 Audi A4 Quattro at 105,000 miles - I followed your piston soak with B-12 only. I was burning 1 quart per 150 miles, and am now at 500 miles with zero oil loss. Unbelievable. THANK YOU. You saved me thousands; it feels like a new car (better idle, start, throttle response, power), and like you said it’s not “cured” but $50 every year or two for an hour worth of time is way worth it. Great job; I can’t thank you enough. Tip- I “slipped” cranking the engine by hand once and did a fast quarter turn and squirted some B-12 out which happened to get in my eye (ouch)… crank strong, but slow. Now that I know the process, I think I can do this for a total investment of about 20 minutes up front, 4 60-second cranks, and then 20 minutes to put everything back together and do an oil change.
Thanks for sharing this! I did this to my 2014 allroad. It was burning a quart every 300 miles. I did this with Berrymans B12 only and it hasn't burned any oil in 1500 miles! I blew all the crap out of the spark plug holes with my air compressor and also changed the PCV at the same time. You're the man brother!
My daughter had a Jetta with a similar engine and she a had a miss fire on cylinder 1 due to low compression. I piston soak that cylinder with marvel mystery oil and I was able to increase compression by 10 psi but not enough to stop the miss fire. At this point the car would only throw a code if it idled more than 5 minutes. So, I reduced the oil changed intervals to 3000 miles, used the cheapest full synthetic oil Walmart had to offer, and added Rislone engine treatment to every oil change. If took a little over a year for the compression to restore and the miss fire to go away. I reduced the oil change interval mileage and started using the Rislone to prevent other piston rings from sticking and causing other cylinder to misfire. But I accidentally came across to the solution of my problem of a stuck piston ring in cylinder 1. Since then I have reduced oil change intervals to 5000 miles on all my vehicles and I add Rislone to every change. Hope this helps someone.
@@Mr_BUSINESS_24_7enough to cover the entire piston. Try 2 inches of depth. Also remember, after you are done with the soak, extract what ever fluid is left before putting back on the spark plug. This will prevent hydro locking engine damage. Don’t do this job if you don’t know what you are doing.
@@xlightssx I know what I'm doing. I know exactly what you mean. I'm thinking like 4 oz. of chemicals per cylinder. Fortunately, I only have (1) cylinder (cylinder #5 on my 2002 Acura TL Type S) that's 15 psi (7%) short on compression. If the soak doesn't take care of it.. ... I'm thinking that additional oil additives like Seafoam, Marvel Mystery Oil, Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant, engine oil flushes, etc... .... will hopefully take care of the issue be it through oil additives or fuel additives.
This engine is actually very reliable, the piston ring is the design issue for emissions, once you do the right piston rings really the only thing is timing chain. Everything else is just wear and tear. Number one thing to do from day one is add a oil catch can! Helps with carbon ALOT! Change oil every 4 to 5 thousand miles! They are turbocharged, it’s my rule of thumb. Don’t go over 5 thousand miles on anything turbocharged don’t listen to any of these dealers that say different. My 2012 a4 has 185 k on her timing chain once at 138k, turbo at 145k that’s it. Did a carbon clean before my oil catch can at 100k definitely a lot of carbon build up. Just went to a carbon clean and what a world of difference did that oil catch can make! A lot of people complain about car but a lot of it is the lack of maintenance! Thanks for the video!
I use a can of the Berryman's B-12 in the fuel tank of my 2018 Kia Sportage 2.4L GDI just before going to take the car in for it's 5000 mile oil change. I notice an immediate increase in power and response of acceleration. Cost for a can at my local Walmart is around $4.85 US. Excellent product.
@@henrytom5824 I actually researched that and discussed it with my mechanic about installing one. The dilemma is i live in northern Illinois so we get periods of below freezing temperatures. The, car is not garaged and i often make short trips. The oils caught in the catch can may freeze thus restricting the flow of vapors and possible damage to the engine. If I lived south of Indianapolis then it would be a different story and I'd do it.
I own a 2012 GTI 2.0T I watched several video on this before performing this service. THIS BLEW MY MIND THAT IT WORKED!!!!. Posting this on every video I can find to help out many more who are unsure. Everyone needs to do this if they have. 2.0 TSI burning oil mine would burn 1/2 quart every 300 miles now can’t even notice. !!!
I have a 2013 Audi Q5 with 2.0L engine, purchased used in 2017. Started tracking oil consumption in 2019, where I was burning 1L every 3,500km, which increased to approx. 1L every 650km as of NOV2023. Did piston soak as outlined in these videos on 27NOV2023. Also did engine flush with seafoam in oil immediately after and replaced with new oil. To date, I have travelled 2,600km and consumed 1/5th of the oil consumption bar. Rough estimate is now 1L every 13,000km. Will wait until warning light comes on to get better estimate of oil consumption. Extremely happy with the results! I currently have 216,000km on this engine. Finding these and similar videos was a big win! It saved me from having my engine torn apart for piston rings, and a potential 10K bill. Thank you to Eurotrash and the power of the internet for working out a plausible alternative to the dealer recommended solution. Will update once oil warning light comes on.
While I was at Saturn in the early 2000’s they had lots of S-series cars with carboning and oil consumption issues. BG came in with a hydraulic machine that plugged into the plug holes and pulsed their solution through the engine. If I remember correctly it actually moved the pistons slowly up and down. The techs took nearly 2 hours to run the machine and then they did 2 oil flushes ran the engine and then put in new plugs. The system worked well. Most cars saw significant improvement in oil consumption.
thanks for these videos. I am looking forward to getting through with all the issues on this car so I can resell and get some of my money back even though it will be at a loss after all the work been put into it
@@ETMotorsports most definitely, trying to be positive through the experience as I've learned a lot more about cars and engines in general from all the work I have chose to do myself instead of pay mechanic to do Channel's like yours have actually saved me thousands on repairs By the way did you ever figure out what those bits were in oil pan? Did oil pump recently and had little black and orange fragments in mine too
Cars are NOT an investment, they are an expense. Enjoy the luxury and the learning. Not sure? Go drive a clapped-out, penalty-box econo-car for a day (or an Altima!) You should feel better about keeping the Audi.
The Berryman’s is a good mix of cleaners xylene, toluene, and acetone so be careful; the Seafoam is naphthenic oil, naphtha and isopropanol which isn’t as potent or hazardous; and the STP is like Gumout which can be used as a motor treatment, it has polyetheramine which is probably the safest to use of the bunch. B12 is the cheapest and most effective, but also the most risky; use it as directed. German autos often have finicky components and I would be wary of not having a mechanic do everything since there’s typically a lot of plastic, nylon and rubber. Use Bosch double iridium plugs, they’re relatively cheap, very good quality and last as long or longer than others; the same goes for their oil filters
I wouldn't recommend dropping spark plugs into the cylinder holes. You can easily damage or bend the tangs on the spark plugs and close the spark gaps. Use a 6 inch piece of rubber tubbing/hose or a pencil magnet
YES! Use tubing...start them with the tube jammed on the end, instead of a wrench, to avoid cross threading into the aluminum head. That will give you a REALLY bad day!
Or use a spark plug socket that can actually hold a spark plug and start them that way. Dude also cranked out all the solvents and got it all over engine bay and body paint. Extract it and then put a rag over each cylinder to catch solvent before blasting it all over the car. Not super into this dudes style
Don't forget to check a common source of excess oil in the intake manifold, a torn diaphragm in your PCV or air/oil separator. There should also be some kind of check valve between the manifold and the PCV preventing turbo boost from overpowering the PCV. Otherwise you will suck a ton of oil vapor into the intake manifold and burn it.
Hey that's great advice - I didn't go into details on this video but that was one of the parts I replaced while trying to diagnose the misfire...I was absolutely convinced it was the PCV because the oil was on to of the valves but nothing changed unfortunately... but you're 100% correct - if you're having oil burning issues you gotta check the PCV first
Im use a camera to see the pistons head and is crazy how dirt is, and have the same problem with misfire when the car is cold start and then is gone but not at all, I use the live data in the scanner and the 3 and 4 has short misfire and the oil burning is crazy
@@ETMotorsports My use of Lucas injector cleaner or the Liqui Moly coincided with changing the PCV and I'm sure they all helped a great deal. The PCV was most likely the original and had 208,000 miles on it. The oil consumption went down a huge amount after doing all 3 of these together, so I'll never know for sure if it was one or the other or all 3 together that helped with the serious oil consumption issue my 3.8L had. I'm just glad it's now only a qt every 5,000 miles instead of every 500 miles.
Could you say more about this check valve connected to the PCV? I have replaced the whole PCV valve but I am still burning oil way beyond what the manufacturer considers normal. Thanks
Thank you. I did the exactly the same thing as shown in this video. It fixed oil burning issue in my 2013 Audi A4. It lost 1qt per 1000miles. I didn't see any message for adding oil yet even after running 1500miles. Clearly, I would say " improved ". Thank you! You save $$$ a lot.
Hello from London. First big thank you for that video. It really works for now. Driven only 320 miles after the piston soak but so far no or very little consumption. My car is 2016 passat b8 2.0 tdi . Bought it 4 years ago at 150000 miles. At that time the oil consumption was about 1 liter per 1300-1400 miles. It is now at 245000 and the oil consumption gradually increased to 1.2 litres for 300 miles. I had to clean DPF 6 times because it was clogging every few months . I am always running Mobil 1 esp and basically at the end I was only replacing filters because the oil has been constantly fresh topping it up.(It’s expensive here in UK. £55 for 5L). 1 month ago the DPF clogged to the point where the back pressure hoses exploded so I decided to finally sort the consumption. I knew piston rings are probably the cause of it but wanted to try the cheaper options first which are turbo , crank case breather and valve stem seals. I also ran 1:4 ATF in the oil with no results. It was time for timing belt anyway so I’ve replaced these things with no improvement at all. Few days ago I was researching to buy all parts involved in replacing the pistons and rings and somehow found you video. So I was “nothing to lose here. Let’s try” The Berryman here in UK is a spray form carb cleaner. £19 for 2 bottles 453ml. Poured (sprayed)one bottle trough the glow plug holes and followed your directions topping up every few hours. At 26 hours mark cranked the engine to get everything left in cylinders installed the glow plugs an replaced the oil as the one in engine was very diluted and I was afraid not to destroy bearings. On initial crank no compression at all so STRONGLY SUGGEST ADDING SOME OIL IN CYLINDERS before any attempts to rotate or start the engine. With the oil in cranked to get it out and then glow plugs in and started first time. I will be driving another 600-700 miles for the next 3 days so I will update. Very happy for now. I hope the issue is sorted Thanks again
hey thanks for the detailed message...a few viewers have asked about doing this to a diesel motor and I didn't have any experience with it...I`m really glad this worked - very interested in what your final numbers will end up as...I have gone through multiple TDis and haven't really had oil consumption issues before - too bad the new motor is experiencing this especially with all the emissions issues they've had... Another viewer used the spray form carb clearner B12 and didn't seem to have much luck with it...here in Canada carb cleaner is very similar to break cleaner which is pretty strong and evaporates very quickly...were you able to scope the cylinders to see if the liquid actually made its way down? I'd be a little worried running carb cleaner through the motor so I think draining it without running was a good idea...you can add some engine treatment to your oil so the cleaning process continues over the first 5000km or so.... a lot of folks seem to be concerned about their catalytic converters running B12 in but as you've clearly seen, burning these amounts of oil continuously is way worse than running B12 for 20-30 min... fingers crossed your issue is resolved - please keep us posted!
@cvetelinnizamski4835 how are your current results? I have high oil consumption on my Audi A4 2012 2.0 tdi. Looking into trying the piston soak myself.
Update on my consumption. So far no consumption at all. The first 1000 miles the oil dropped slightly. Topped up 300ml to bring it back to max level and since I’ve made another 1000 miles without any oil consumption. I had no boroscope to inspect cylinders and I was little bit concerned where all the crap will go but so far it’s all okay.
@@tsvetelinnizamski great results... on the Q5bi also noticed the consumption improve with the mileage...I ultimately went through 1L in 5000km but the majority was gone by the first 2000
Enjoyed your vids. Trying to track down oil loss in wife's 2014 outback. Had hesdgasket replaced and losing oil ever since, about 1/4 to 1/3 qt in about 300 -400 miles (US). BOXER naturally aspirated. Watching you and DIY DAVE. Thanks for posting.
FB25 engines in the 2013+ Outback 2.5i have a well documented tendency to burn heaps of oil even when new. If you're under 100k miles, it may be a warranty issue, otherwise I would switch to an oil that is one grade heavier (I believe manual specifies 0w20, so try switching to a 0w30 or 5w30). If it's a 3.6, all I can say is that it's probably got a really bad leak or your rings are completely toasted. Normal consumption for the 3.6 is 1qt every 2-6k miles. Normal consumption for the 2013+ 2.5 is 1qt every 1-3k miles. Also, if you haven't already, I would definitely change out your PCV valve. It's an $8 part and won't take you more than 20 minutes to change, and if it's stuck shut, it will cause excess oil consumption like you've described. It can also cause leaks.
@@poleposition3065 Throw Rotella T6 5W-40 in there. I've seen dozens upon dozens of used oil analyses on Subie's and T6. Nothing beats it. Plus, it'll clean any gunk off your rings and then rejuvenate them. I don't mean to run it one time, either. I mean for life. Check out the bob is the oil guy forums, look at the UOA's and see for yourself what's the best oil in those engines. HINT: It's Rotella T6.
Great video, thanks for posting it! I have been battling the same issue with our 2017 Audi Q7 since we got it with 94k miles, it's at 145k now. I replaced the PCV, no change. Tried various other things, but a Berryman's B12 piston soak with a similar method to yours has reduced our oil consumption from 1 quart per 400 miles, to over 1500 miles per quart. And so far it's still running fine, where before it would stumble and misfire a lot and occasionally set codes and go into limp mode. I plan to do another soak and see if I can get some further improvement.
@@ETMotorsports Same car & situation (but 2018) as @bryanjohnson6190 - I'm in the middle of piston soak now. Question - pistons look terrible - lots of build up/gunk. Going through lots of B12. At what point is it safe to close it back up and run? Do I need to extract gunk from cylinder? Any possible way to contact directly for advice and share of scope images?
@michaelholzbauer2218 hey you can get my whatsapp info from the FB page if you want to send pics... it's pretty normal to have gunk on top of the piston - my A4 was pretty sooty...B12 will soften all that up and if you crank with the plugs out it'll hopefully throw it out of the cylinder... beyond that you can try shop vac to collect the garbage or if you have a power bleeder that could work too
Thanks for taking the time to post this DIY. Will try it on my 2010 3.0 T Avant. Will let you know results. Ps I figure close to $250 US $ to perform this process 2X and THANKS for calling your engine an ENGINE not a motor (electric) Ciao
Great video, gonna try it on my 2014 Allroad to see if it helps with oil consumption, my car doesn't have a misfire, however I need to add a liter every 900km. Funny, I remember that ice storm, I'm from Montreal and lived through 2 ice storms, not fun at all. Thanks again for a great comprehensive video.
The b-12 works! I just did the same in my 2011 VW GTI. Thanks for the video. I would have never tried “snake oil” and just tore it down for new rings and updated oil control rings.
@@ETMotorsports i was burning about a quart in about 300-400 miles. There was a large plume of smoke after any kind of 0% throttle decl. Compression and leakdown tests all looked good. I let the pistons soak for about 30 hrs. Put the first can in then topped off about 6 hrs later.
Bought this damm engine - Audi 2011 late model stw and has 170 000 km driven. So should i already look those parts that you did?. I think you are very very good at analyzing this engine!. I go fetch it tomorrow and drive home 420km. That speciment has oil consumption 0.7l / 8000km and is measured twice. Thank you being honest and professional!.
In my absolute belief, Berryman's B-12 is THE most powerful formula on the planet and it WORKS! I discovered this oh back around 2003 and it does kick major butt!!
If you feel uneasy about using it in the engine oil don't do it! I have used the B-12 with a full can to 12 gallons of gas and so after driving it for a good half hour at highway speeds you should start feeling a difference as to how much better the engine is responding, provided that your spark plugs are in good shape. If you are worried about using it in the engine oil, just don't do it! I know of a whole different approach when it comes down to treating the engine oil of gently getting the sludge/gunk out of the crankcase and I have done it four times over in the last 50 years of turning wrenches with no catastrophic results. One of 3 methods being using 1 quart of kerosene to 4 quarts oil used engine oil. Preheat the engine to operating temp but then shut it down. Adjust you oil level to the 4 quart mark of the oil dipstick by siphoning out how ever that you may need to, to get it to the 4 quart mark on the dipstick. the second index mark below the full line should be the target on most vehicles out there. Restart the engine but then have a stopwatch handy that is already set up for 2 minutes on the timer. Have your quart of kerosene also at the ready. Just as you have just restarted the engine, pour the kerosene into the oil filler tube and then start the 2 minute timer. After 2 minutes are up, shut down the engine and allow the engine oil sit and soak for about 20 minutes but then pull the drain plug and replace your oil filter so as to complete your oil change. Do this procedure at the 3,000 mile oil change interval. An even more gentler means of doing this sort of thing is to use Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic with a premium oil filter and change it after 2,000 miles, but then change the oil and filter. After 2 oil changes using the Pennzoil Ultra, such as at the 3,000 mile interval the second time go around, you should markedly see a big difference in the color of the engine oil, make no mistake about it. I know of at least 2 other methods of doing these sort of things over the years. @@mixter7x7
When it comes down to using the B-12 for soaking the piston rings and the cylinder walls, personally, I would jump at the chance of freeing the piston rings, knowing that my engine was already doomed to a nearly fatal fate. My engine for instance has over 180K and it has that very issue! If you are really smart about it, do you research ahead of time and view as many videos as possible. Stakes as they may be, if you know a little about your engine to start with, that is a big plus before trying anything at all! Take for instance, the amount of buildup and crusties that are in the oil filler passageway and the amount of crud inside the PCV valve hose and whether it is severe enough to get worried over. Also, the amount of crud inside the air intake plenum areas looking down towards the valves. AND how much carbon or how thick it is on top of the pistons as well. All of these things that I just mentioned can be a measuring tool by using a scope camera and taking time out to verify just how big of a problem it might be moving forward. If you don't have access to a bore scope camera, just pull those valve covers off and that could be a very good indicator as to whether to take the plunge using B-12 to help free up the piston rings. If there is mega sludge like hell won't have it, you still might decide one way or another. But yeah, do take the time out with an abundance of caution. @@mixter7x7
Great video and showing your process. I have a 2019 VW Sportwagen with the 1.8T. I have about 105,000 km. I do my my oil changes at 8,000 km from day one even though Volkswagen insisted i should do it at 15,000 km i was being "wasteful". A friend of mine who is a independent VW Audi tech suggested I use Seafaom 500 km before an oil change. Sometimes I forget, but appear to lost I minimal amount of oil. I should look up a good way to do this for my wife's Subaru in 5,000 km she has to replace all the oil basically.
Hey good points! I've had a few people ask about subaru - i couldn't figure out how to do it unless the engine is on a stand or you somehow tilt the car 🤣
Very cool info. I have been a skeptic re: what additive can do for a vehicle, especially for an engine or transmission. But, as of late I have used seafoam to clean out older engines with trult spectacular results. Yours is a more extreme situation with the oil consumption (and plug fouling) situation being corrected. From what I have been reading the lower piston ring temsion levels are largely responsible for increased oil consumption, where the ring tension is reduced in an effort to increase fuel mileage (less internal friction), but it tends to keep the rings from helping the oil control rings from scraping off excess oil from the cylinder walls. Oncde the oil control rings begin to build up deposits that prevent free flowing of scraped oil down to the crankcase we get into trouble, as the compression rings are rendered nearly useless in helping with excess oil on the cyllinder walls due to loss of tension pressure. Thus, I can see how helping clean those deposits will help reduce oil consumption. Anyway, thank you for sharing this info. I look foward to seeing the rsults of a similar approach with your sister's car, and have subscribed to your channel in hopes of seeing that video once you have time to put it together. Having our own How To CZcams channel, I get the work involved in producing even ad hoc videos to share info like this. Feel free to check it out at: www.youtube.com/@gilberthale7777/videos
I would have placed the boot and coil assemblies over the holes instead of paper towels. Would reduce evaporation.... loved the mis-matched plugs used!
that's a good point - it would close it off better for sure but to be honest I don't think much of this evaporated at all...I've had B12 sit on my table for days and it doesn't really go down much if at all so this is mostly to keep other junk from falling in...
back in the 90s we did something similar and had great results using diesel poured in while motor was at operating temp, let it soak for 72 hours on the pistons, sometimes in the oil too depending on sludge build up on american I4 V6 V8 non turbo models
I used Diesel in my B7 2 TFSI, it definitely reduced oil consumption, but it's not gone completely. But the car is currently in the garage due to low oil pressure... again, so I will take the oil pan off soon and see if the oil pick-up is clogged again. probably shit from the engine I could not reach the last time I did this came loose, and now I have to clean it out one more time. hopefully, that will permanently fix it as I will never change the oil as late as the service interval in the manual says to change.
@@ETMotorsports What about running a gallon of Diesel in a full 20 gallon gas tank once or maybe a couple of times? Would that clean things up or cause a problem?
Hello from Oregon , I like your application and research. Great video, very well done. HUGE oversight possibly! You addressed the concerns of the B12 product not containing lube and not designed as a crankcase additive! Huge caution needed when running B12 with engine oil! B12 is very / extremely aggressive. As a piston soak its great. Absolutely do not run an engine with B12 in the oil! SF, MMO, and others state on the can and product info, are suitable for such applications. B12 being so aggressive works extremely fast at cleaning. So more attention is required in the cleaning Prossess
Yeah you really don't want to run it for a long period - for a short period of time or should be ok... plenty of folks have run it as an engine flush but you're right that stuff like seafoam and liquimoly engine flush are safer for sure...I think it comes down to how bad your problem is... on this Q5 the consumption was bad enough that I needed that extra bit with the b12 flush
@teddy_awdB19 honestly anything you're comfortable with...I did 15 min idle in the A4 and I did 30 min at hwy speeds in the Q5... anything longer than that I think you start asking for trouble
Also, yes, you aren't supposed to run the Chemtool in the engine oil for over 10 minutes, so good call on changing the oil out. It is a very potent solvent, though, that's for sure.
The slant deck presents a problem with the piston soak method. you need to pull the right side of the vehicle up on car ramps, just the right side front and rear wheel in order to get the cylinders pointing more vertical orientation. The product leaked past the rings at the lowest point and not evenly all around the cylinder wall. Everything drained into the crankcase at only one area in the combustion chamber that's why hardly anything came out when you cranked it over before reinstalling the spark plugs.
I found that the Berryman product works better for chemical soak on valves, etc than any other liquid I could purchase on the market. It MELTS sludge. A godsend for direct injection engines. Using sea foam through the gas tank doesn’t reach the valves and pistons btw for these direct injection engines. Neither does it reach those areas even if you spray into the throttle body. Just an fyi that people conveniently forget.
A great video, I'm going to try this with my mini, as it's failed it's mot on smoke, but it's not that bad, so hopefully this will help, thanks for your tutorial.
I am dealing with 2007 toyota camry 2.4l. For past 2 years been drinking oil by gallon and adding 1 quart every 300 mile or once a week I have used seafoam in the past and adding 1 quart every 1200 mile .After viewing this video decided to do it with b-12 and i am at 2500 mile with no oil burning. The point that i am making is that this can do marvel and i give it 100% that you will not be sorry .Looks like i can change oil every 5000 mile with no adding in between oil changes.
Is it possible to test all modern coolant types (G12, G12+, G12++, G13) for spark plug fouling on engines that burn a small amount of coolant due to a head gasket leak? I have small Ford Focus Mk1 1.6 engine that burns 50-100 mL of coolant every 1000km or so. After hot restarting the engine (e.g., after stopping 15mins for shopping) the engine misfires heavily and jerks. By applying 3-4 presses of throttle up to 3000rpm the misfire goes away. This happens due to coolant leaking to one of the 4 cylinders. This is on G12. I want to see if G13 could be better in my case.
I have found using better oil to help mine the most. At 5k oil changes I use a qt on engine with 180k miles. When I bought it it used 3 qts of X big brand oil in that same interval 5k. I found using a different brand with a better test result for evaporation helped greatly. Also intake stays clean with OEM PCV setup. FSI 2.0T
I did the soak on my 2016 Q5 92k miles that was burning almost a full quarter every 300 miles. Only bought one can of b12. Soaked and spun engine after 2 hours, repeat the steps. So far I’m 400 plus miles no oil burnt.
@@ETMotorsports yes I did not have much time that night. After the second and last round of b12 to top off the pistons, I let it sit overnight. I think that helped a lot. And I put spark plugs on
Thanks for the video. It will help all the VAG drivers, and maybe more. Derek Bieri uses the B12 and often diesel oil for more dinosaurus. So that`s allright... I think...right?
Yeah the diesel oil generally contains more detergents which is why I used the Rotella T6 with my second cycle... the oil doesn't match VAG spec for the engine but should be ok every 4-5 oil changes
Have a 2003 Lexus IS300 with 270K miles on it. Burns 1 quart every 2000 miles. Has been doing it since 150K miles. No visible oil leaks or blue smoke. Gonna give this a shot and let you know the results.
Hello from Calabria, italy! I have a 3 cil 1.4 TDI seat ibiza 2004, 410.000 km now!!!!! Consumption oil is 2 L in 10.000 km, compression is ok, (30bar in all cilinder) turbo is ok (no leak) I'm sure piston ring is clogghed. Try your work.....🎉🎉🎉
I've always used a little Marvel Mystery Oil in my fuel and in my crankcase oil. I also like (from Amazon) 'New BG 44K Platinum, EPR, MOA'. I think the bg products really clean out the sludge and gum from your engine and keep your engine clean. The Marvel seems to dissolve baked on carbon and keep things well lubed up and helps to you keep a clean engine too ! The Marvel also helps to lubricate your fuel pump. Rislone works nice too, to help decarbonize your engine.
I’ve copied your strategy with B12 on a 2.0 TFSI, results are unbelievable, oil consumption is pretty much zero after soaking procedure, still max oil after 1.500km on the highway, unbelievable…
Do you think this would work on a 2017 Audi Q7 3.0T motor that is burning quite a lot of oil? I recently replaced the PCV system with no improvement. I just performed the Luiqimoly Engine flush along with the Liquimoly Ceratec oil additive, but I am already seeing the oil level go down after just a few hundred miles. Thank you for the detailed videos and explanations!
I'm doing one this week in the same situation... hoping to report back and have a video within a few weeks...I know of a few viewers who have been successful on their 3.0Ts
Great video man I’ve been dealing with same issues with my a4 b8 did a valve clean changed injectors, spark plugs, coils, new injectors keep getting clogged after short period now I’m going to try piston soak and see if it helps.
@@Abdullahkhattab24 Yes i changed oil at 450 miles im currently at 900 miles with no issues, car is running better and sounds better than before and even better gas mileage i recommend piston soak 👍
You should probably try running Valvoline Restore and Protect in these cars all the time, if they make the weight your care requires. I'm hearing good things about this oil and piston ring deposits.
I poured 2 bottles of the Berryman’s throughout a day and a half, then I poured some oil back into each cylinder to lubricate the rings the car seems to run a lot better already. It was consuming about half of its oil between 5k mile oil changes, I’ll check back in after some time I changed the oil today 110,200 miles.
iridium tips on spark plugs are super brittle. I don't think its a good idea to just drop them into the holes like that. Could be a disaster if the tip breaks off and lands on the cylinder.
The problem with these motors is manufactures don’t care a lot of these motors are giving problems well under 100,000 miles I see as low as 60,000 miles so basically 60,000 miles you’re ready for a new car to the point that that Hass to go in the junkyard because to do the motor the right way for your average person outweighs the price of the car unless you have all these tools and you’re a mechanic I got time to do it you could rebuild it the right way. I personally think we should stop buying these cars I have a 2012 cc this is my last Volkswagen I will ever buy because if you can’t make piston rings after all these years of building cars you’re not worth my money.
@@monkkayllc446 Yeah, they don't make 'em like they used to. If you ask me... The older 302/5.0's and 351w/5.8's were just unbeatable. The Ford 4.6 V8 SOHC was also an indestructible engine. As was the 4.6 DOHC 32v... it's just more rare, but it's a wicked engine. But now? Manufacturers can't be trusted to build a simple naturally aspirated engine, let alone a 2.0 liter 4 cyl turbo. I've heard Honda is already having issues with their 1.5 4cyl turbo engines in the Civic Si's. And I believe it because my sister has one. The DI (direct injection) is apparently diluting the oil so bad that they're spinning bearings. I'm sure they call for 5W-20, also, so that's always stupid. If people only knew how thick ANY oil is at start up they'd stop fretting over the 6-8cst difference between an xW-20 and xW-40. I mean, at 100C/212F, most xW-20's are 7.x cst. At start up (or rather, 40C) they're probably around 70cst. At 40C, Rotella T6 5W-40 is more around 115cst, I believe, but at 100C/212F it's a near 15cst oil that shears down to 13.6cst and stays there for the remainder of its time. You and anyone reading this should look at some UOA's at bob is the oil guy forums and see how oils perform. There are two oils out there that beat everything in wear metals. Rotella T6 5W-40 and Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. However, the best oil in the world doesn't prevent design flaws. I don't even want a new car. I want what I've always known to be reliable. I'm about to get an older Honda Civic or something for daily driving. Older as in 2012. Gotta have one with a manual transmission, too. Ford, Chevy and Dodge have disgraced themselves in comparison to what they were up until the early 2000's.
I’m glad the additives worked and the new set of spark plugs the Rotella was a great decision and have you changed your coil packs since you’ve owned the car and I would probably run the Berrymans in the fuel tank once a month until you get rid of the car
yeah B12 in the fuel is a great idea...these things do get the injectors dirty so it doesn't hurt to run a can of cleaner through the fuel system...I generally replace the coil-packs when they go bad - there's not much point in replacing an item that's working correctly...in all honesty in 20+ years of working with coil-packs I must have had a grand total of 3 bad parts...
one idea is to drain, fill with ATF... and idle for awhile. Super cleans - and losens sticking rings. Then drain and fill w normal oil - or w some amount of (LUCAS) thicker. now ill watch your video.........cheers!
I change my oil every 3000 miles and use seafoam in my gas tank every oil change. I own a 2.0T with 40,000 miles on it. It runs exactly the same as new.
Thank you for your vdo , i need to follow your step, i have audi q5 2.0TFSI 2011 (85,000km) burning 1liter every 300-500km, but in my country i cannot find B12 Chemtool, can you suggest another product good enough to replace B12 , and i have question do i need to do this every time when change the engine oil? Thank you very much
Hey a few viewers have been able to order B12 from ebay and ship to their country...as for alternatives you can try LiquiMoly Engine Flush Pro Line or their injector cleaner alternative
My 2009 Corolla 1ZZFE engine doesnt burn oil. Once it started to burn I put half a quart of baby oil and almost immediatelly after that, the oil consumption stop! Naphthenic oil has a huge solvency/solubility of deposits.
@@wolfgang6028 Yes, its Naphthenic Pale Oil (Baby oil) about 70%, Isopropryl alcohol about 15% and Naphta the rest 15% (an aromatic like gasoline). That's why it works at early stages, not on coked sludge.
Hi Mate, Thanks a lot for the video, I did it and it worked, gave car a very good acceleration so far the car has not given any pop up after doing 500ks but the blowby ahs started to occur, can smell oil after long drive from intake pipe thats going in to rocker cover. should i be doing the process again what do you reckon?
Hmm i would wait for 5k before repeating the process... time it with the next oil change so you're not wasting oil... for the smell though it could be coming from many places so unless you're still burning a lot of oil, don't repeat the process... look for another source of oil - maybe PCV
Keep in mind that what you're seeing as oil loss after each treatment is probably partially due to the more volatile treatment fluids in the crankcase burning off in the cylinders and evaporating then burning off through the PCV. That will show as an oil level loss.
Hi thanks for the video, so much time and effort gone into sharing this information, I will try on my 2010 Audi a5 2.0 tfsi. Is 1 can of Berryman b12 enough?
Thanks a lot from London, everything so expensive here. 1 can costs £15 on eee bay. Will buy 2 . Just so I get the steps right. 1) soak pistons with 1 can, rotate engine, leave to soak for 24 hours. 2) repeat process with 2nd can. 3 after 24 hours, crank engine emptying cylinder. 4) run engine for 10-15 minutes 5) replace oil and filter and most likely spark plugs. Have I missed anything? Can I get away with this method. Thank you again, appreciate your help, newbie enthusiast so I don’t wanna mess anything up.
I was shocked when you mentioned the "normal" oil consumption 😮. I have mostly owned Japanese cars but none of them consumed more than half a liter/10.000 km. I never added any oil to them because I service them once a year.
Trying it on a 2012 Ram 1500 with the 4.7L…..old worn out work truck, burning one litre of oil per 500km….I mixed engine oil with ATF plus4 instead oil 15w-40 diesel oil, transmission fluid has a better cleaning power in the fluid, ran engine in low rear around the block a couple times, drained oil and filter, refill with new oil…
I've heard of folks using transmission fluid as well - what ratio are you doing? Do you plan to run the ATF mix permanently or just for a bit? I think ATF is also used if the engine has been sitting for a while
@@ETMotorsports all my cars I run ATF mixed with engine oil, my Honda CRV 2003 with 442000km still running with a 4.5 5w20 capacity and 1/4 litre of ATF
Hi, thanks for the awesome video. i have bought Audi A5 and waiting its delivery next week. 2010 A5 and same issue EPC light, ring pistons to be replaced. Hope it works, fingers crossed. Have you tried or know if YamaLube Ring Free fuel additive or BG EPR 109 will be good one to use?
Hey EPC light is often related to oil pressure issues with the intake cam... I've got another video for oil pressure - check that out... if the EPC is coming up at roughly 1500rpm it's oil pressure related... the rings cause misfires because of fouled plugs but I haven't seen an EPC issue wth them
@@ETMotorsports Ahh ok gotcha…im here in Australia and Berrymans B12 one can is A$38 (haha ) I think its $5 in Canada. Anyways ordered few cans… Fingers crossed, car coming next week and will definitely let you know I will look now at your EPC video Any idea on YamaLube or BG EPR ?
Hey, Ford forgot how to put spark plugs into a cylinder head when they made the Triton 3 valve V8 pick up truck engine. The spark plugs would blow out complete with threads.
Im having the same issue with my A3 8p. I bought her used, so I have no idea as to how meticulous other people are. This is a GREAT video! Have you come across other solutions by any chance? You said you put 110ml? Of the cleaner on each cylinder ....would more be better? Or just not recommended?
hey I leave the B12 in every time I do a soak and run the engine with it inside for 20-30 min...if you're worried you can run it on idle instead of driving around with it - on my Q5 I drove it pretty heavy on the hwy for 30 min before draining it. On the Q7 (not my car) I ran it on idle until the temperature came up and then replaced it. It depends on your level of comfort with the procedure but running B12 inside would help continue the carbon dissolving and cleaning of the motor...
Always always always clockwise... otherwise you're going against the chain tensioners... if you get stuck like I did you can carefully back up a bit but can't turn the engine that way for a long time
Never seen someone just drop plugs into the holes, ouch. Use a socket that can hold on to them or a piece of line or even use the coil plug if you have to to get them started gently. Dropping them like that will often bend the electrode ruining the gap or worse snap it off or short them.
I’m using a a quart every 300 or so fsi 2.0t and a random misfire at ideal at random times and at fast takeoffs gotta try this out changed Pcv valve and hoses so I’m hoping this helps me out
Good luck... yeah the pcv can't account for that much oil... sounds like your engine is going the same as mine wth the misfire... have you checked the plugs?
i see you doing flush as per diydave instructions. i also did it but in 20min drive i did full throttle pulls and my oil consupmtion reduced to around 1/9 from what i had. of course, if issue are not gummed piston rings but just worn engine this wont help
I"ve seen guys get the motor hot and then attach a tube that sucks water into the intake side of the turbo to steam the crud out of the rings in diesels. Might work in this case as well.
hmm you can do this with SeaFoam but at best you`ll get cleaner piston crowns...this won't do anything for the rings...this method is also used sometimes for cleaning carbon buildup on valves but anybody that's ever tried to clean it by hand can tell you it takes A LOT more than water or seafoam vapor to clean proper carbon build-up
Long maintenance intervals that the manufacturers are pushing is what’s causing the issues. Some of these cars only require the oil to be changed between 10k to 15k miles… that’s crazy smh. Do the maintenance much earlier than that.
2016 Audi Q3 - doing the piston soak. Using my scope at each step. All plugs out and labeled left (1) to right (4) Saturday- scope cylinder heads - crusty carbon - 110 ml Berrymans each cylinder - soak Sunday - scoped, all Berrymans off the piston / turned engine to move the piston / 2nd soak - 110 ml each - soaking Tuesday - scoped (1) - dry (2) & (4) look moist but generally no standing Berrymans (3) - puddle remains this time which I took as a positive sign that it couldn’t get by the piston ring? I placed paper towels over each hole and turned the engine, 3 was soaked, 2+4 ended up very damp and 1 was dry. So I put 110 ml in number 1 and will see how that looks when I can update My next steps will be to check each cylinder and use my air compressor to make sure there is no fluid then get some oil into the dry cylinders, replace the old plugs and drive it Having put 2 Berryman cans into the cylinders I have essentially put two into the crankcase as they have dripped down the cylinder walls I will then change oil, filter and plugs and cross my fingers This is not that complicated but if anyone has advice to the above please let me know. Thanks
Hey good luck - looking forward to the results... so far most people have reported very random results from each cylinder as far as draining goes...I saw the same thing - they weren't consistently draining in the same manner so I wouldn't worry about it too much
Thank you for your videos, they have given me confidence to do this. Got a scope and that is very helpful and gives an amateur confidence. I would say a qt every 275-300 miles Btw, the existing plugs were all pretty crusty white Also, what is your opinion of the oil change method where they vacuum it out? Mine is it leaves a lot of gunk in the pan that contributes to this Audi problem I’ll be back when I have some results- work is impacting this experiment but I am taking satisfaction doing this myself So thank you again
2011 Audi A4 Quattro at 105,000 miles - I followed your piston soak with B-12 only. I was burning 1 quart per 150 miles, and am now at 500 miles with zero oil loss. Unbelievable. THANK YOU. You saved me thousands; it feels like a new car (better idle, start, throttle response, power), and like you said it’s not “cured” but $50 every year or two for an hour worth of time is way worth it. Great job; I can’t thank you enough.
Tip- I “slipped” cranking the engine by hand once and did a fast quarter turn and squirted some B-12 out which happened to get in my eye (ouch)… crank strong, but slow. Now that I know the process, I think I can do this for a total investment of about 20 minutes up front, 4 60-second cranks, and then 20 minutes to put everything back together and do an oil change.
Awesome results - really happy it worked well...eek B12 in the eye - careful! Keep us posted with your final results
duddddeeee with this chemicals u can lose your vision if its one of the nasty one...
Thanks for sharing this! I did this to my 2014 allroad. It was burning a quart every 300 miles. I did this with Berrymans B12 only and it hasn't burned any oil in 1500 miles! I blew all the crap out of the spark plug holes with my air compressor and also changed the PCV at the same time. You're the man brother!
Great results! Glad it worked
My daughter had a Jetta with a similar engine and she a had a miss fire on cylinder 1 due to low compression. I piston soak that cylinder with marvel mystery oil and I was able to increase compression by 10 psi but not enough to stop the miss fire. At this point the car would only throw a code if it idled more than 5 minutes. So, I reduced the oil changed intervals to 3000 miles, used the cheapest full synthetic oil Walmart had to offer, and added Rislone engine treatment to every oil change. If took a little over a year for the compression to restore and the miss fire to go away. I reduced the oil change interval mileage and started using the Rislone to prevent other piston rings from sticking and causing other cylinder to misfire. But I accidentally came across to the solution of my problem of a stuck piston ring in cylinder 1. Since then I have reduced oil change intervals to 5000 miles on all my vehicles and I add Rislone to every change. Hope this helps someone.
Thanks for the info... I'll have to check Rislone out
How much marvel mystery oil and or Berryman's Chem Tool B12 are your guys putting in the cylinder ?
@@Mr_BUSINESS_24_7enough to cover the entire piston. Try 2 inches of depth. Also remember, after you are done with the soak, extract what ever fluid is left before putting back on the spark plug. This will prevent hydro locking engine damage. Don’t do this job if you don’t know what you are doing.
@@xlightssx I know what I'm doing. I know exactly what you mean. I'm thinking like 4 oz. of chemicals per cylinder. Fortunately, I only have (1) cylinder (cylinder #5 on my 2002 Acura TL Type S) that's 15 psi (7%) short on compression. If the soak doesn't take care of it.. ... I'm thinking that additional oil additives like Seafoam, Marvel Mystery Oil, Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant, engine oil flushes, etc... .... will hopefully take care of the issue be it through oil additives or fuel additives.
I like Rislone, too !
This engine is actually very reliable, the piston ring is the design issue for emissions, once you do the right piston rings really the only thing is timing chain. Everything else is just wear and tear. Number one thing to do from day one is add a oil catch can! Helps with carbon ALOT! Change oil every 4 to 5 thousand miles! They are turbocharged, it’s my rule of thumb. Don’t go over 5 thousand miles on anything turbocharged don’t listen to any of these dealers that say different. My 2012 a4 has 185 k on her timing chain once at 138k, turbo at 145k that’s it. Did a carbon clean before my oil catch can at 100k definitely a lot of carbon build up. Just went to a carbon clean and what a world of difference did that oil catch can make! A lot of people complain about car but a lot of it is the lack of maintenance! Thanks for the video!
Yeah lack of maintenance is a very common thing these days
I have much respect for how meticulous you are in your process, as well as how well you document the process.
Thank you!
Thanks for the note!
I use a can of the Berryman's B-12 in the fuel tank of my 2018 Kia Sportage 2.4L GDI just before going to take the car in for it's 5000 mile oil change. I notice an immediate increase in power and response of acceleration. Cost for a can at my local Walmart is around $4.85 US. Excellent product.
Thanks for sharing!
Pouring this in the fuel tank? Is it safe?
That 2.4l needs an oil catch can.
@@henrytom5824 I actually researched that and discussed it with my mechanic about installing one. The dilemma is i live in northern Illinois so we get periods of below freezing temperatures. The, car is not garaged and i often make short trips. The oils caught in the catch can may freeze thus restricting the flow of vapors and possible damage to the engine. If I lived south of Indianapolis then it would be a different story and I'd do it.
I think you might’ve had a typo, and you put the Berrymans in your crank case prior to the oil change, not the gas tank
I own a 2012 GTI 2.0T I watched several video on this before performing this service. THIS BLEW MY MIND THAT IT WORKED!!!!. Posting this on every video I can find to help out many more who are unsure. Everyone needs to do this if they have. 2.0 TSI burning oil mine would burn 1/2 quart every 300 miles now can’t even notice. !!!
Awesome results!!
@@ETMotorsports update 3 months in no noticeable loss in oil
Thank you so much, I could never fully express my gratitude for this video.
Did you try it?
Thanks for the video, I am having a similar problem oil burning and high fuel consumption ( 2010 Audi A4 1.8tfsi)
I have a 2013 Audi Q5 with 2.0L engine, purchased used in 2017. Started tracking oil consumption in 2019, where I was burning 1L every 3,500km, which increased to approx. 1L every 650km as of NOV2023. Did piston soak as outlined in these videos on 27NOV2023. Also did engine flush with seafoam in oil immediately after and replaced with new oil. To date, I have travelled 2,600km and consumed 1/5th of the oil consumption bar. Rough estimate is now 1L every 13,000km. Will wait until warning light comes on to get better estimate of oil consumption. Extremely happy with the results! I currently have 216,000km on this engine.
Finding these and similar videos was a big win! It saved me from having my engine torn apart for piston rings, and a potential 10K bill. Thank you to Eurotrash and the power of the internet for working out a plausible alternative to the dealer recommended solution. Will update once oil warning light comes on.
Awesome results!!! Thanks for the feedback
Thanks man, this was really helpful. First video watched, subscribed right away🙂
Nice video. Great editing and content.
While I was at Saturn in the early 2000’s they had lots of S-series cars with carboning and oil consumption issues. BG came in with a hydraulic machine that plugged into the plug holes and pulsed their solution through the engine. If I remember correctly it actually moved the pistons slowly up and down. The techs took nearly 2 hours to run the machine and then they did 2 oil flushes ran the engine and then put in new plugs. The system worked well. Most cars saw significant improvement in oil consumption.
sounds like a good solution actually...makes all the sense in the world
Mine runs fine, but is starting to burn oil. Definitely going to do this! Great video!
What's your consumption?
thanks for these videos.
I am looking forward to getting through with all the issues on this car so I can resell and get some of my money back even though it will be at a loss after all the work been put into it
Sorry to hear... yeah they can be money pits
@@ETMotorsports most definitely, trying to be positive through the experience as I've learned a lot more about cars and engines in general from all the work I have chose to do myself instead of pay mechanic to do
Channel's like yours have actually saved me thousands on repairs
By the way did you ever figure out what those bits were in oil pan? Did oil pump recently and had little black and orange fragments in mine too
Cars are NOT an investment, they are an expense. Enjoy the luxury and the learning.
Not sure? Go drive a clapped-out, penalty-box econo-car for a day (or an Altima!) You should feel better about keeping the Audi.
The Berryman’s is a good mix of cleaners xylene, toluene, and acetone so be careful; the Seafoam is naphthenic oil, naphtha and isopropanol which isn’t as potent or hazardous; and the STP is like Gumout which can be used as a motor treatment, it has polyetheramine which is probably the safest to use of the bunch. B12 is the cheapest and most effective, but also the most risky; use it as directed. German autos often have finicky components and I would be wary of not having a mechanic do everything since there’s typically a lot of plastic, nylon and rubber. Use Bosch double iridium plugs, they’re relatively cheap, very good quality and last as long or longer than others; the same goes for their oil filters
Nice summery, thanks.
I wouldn't recommend dropping spark plugs into the cylinder holes. You can easily damage or bend the tangs on the spark plugs and close the spark gaps. Use a 6 inch piece of rubber tubbing/hose or a pencil magnet
YES! Use tubing...start them with the tube jammed on the end, instead of a wrench, to avoid cross threading into the aluminum head. That will give you a REALLY bad day!
I was cringing every time he did this. Absolutely crazy!! Weird how meticulous he is but yet doing this kind of action
Use the plug wire boot to start the threads, dk if the coil can do this too...
Or use a spark plug socket that can actually hold a spark plug and start them that way. Dude also cranked out all the solvents and got it all over engine bay and body paint. Extract it and then put a rag over each cylinder to catch solvent before blasting it all over the car. Not super into this dudes style
Don't forget to check a common source of excess oil in the intake manifold, a torn diaphragm in your PCV or air/oil separator. There should also be some kind of check valve between the manifold and the PCV preventing turbo boost from overpowering the PCV. Otherwise you will suck a ton of oil vapor into the intake manifold and burn it.
Hey that's great advice - I didn't go into details on this video but that was one of the parts I replaced while trying to diagnose the misfire...I was absolutely convinced it was the PCV because the oil was on to of the valves but nothing changed unfortunately... but you're 100% correct - if you're having oil burning issues you gotta check the PCV first
@@ETMotorsportswhen you did the procederes you use the same sparks or use new one always in the procedures?
Im use a camera to see the pistons head and is crazy how dirt is, and have the same problem with misfire when the car is cold start and then is gone but not at all, I use the live data in the scanner and the 3 and 4 has short misfire and the oil burning is crazy
@@ETMotorsports My use of Lucas injector cleaner or the Liqui Moly coincided with changing the PCV and I'm sure they all helped a great deal. The PCV was most likely the original and had 208,000 miles on it. The oil consumption went down a huge amount after doing all 3 of these together, so I'll never know for sure if it was one or the other or all 3 together that helped with the serious oil consumption issue my 3.8L had. I'm just glad it's now only a qt every 5,000 miles instead of every 500 miles.
Could you say more about this check valve connected to the PCV? I have replaced the whole PCV valve but I am still burning oil way beyond what the manufacturer considers normal. Thanks
Thank you. I did the exactly the same thing as shown in this video. It fixed oil burning issue in my 2013 Audi A4. It lost 1qt per 1000miles. I didn't see any message for adding oil yet even after running 1500miles. Clearly, I would say " improved ". Thank you! You save $$$ a lot.
Glad it worked!!
Guy's I traying to get my hand's on b12 chematol but that product do not come to eu any advice?
Hello from London.
First big thank you for that video. It really works for now. Driven only 320 miles after the piston soak but so far no or very little consumption.
My car is 2016 passat b8 2.0 tdi . Bought it 4 years ago at 150000 miles. At that time the oil consumption was about 1 liter per 1300-1400 miles. It is now at 245000 and the oil consumption gradually increased to 1.2 litres for 300 miles. I had to clean DPF 6 times because it was clogging every few months . I am always running Mobil 1 esp and basically at the end I was only replacing filters because the oil has been constantly fresh topping it up.(It’s expensive here in UK. £55 for 5L).
1 month ago the DPF clogged to the point where the back pressure hoses exploded so I decided to finally sort the consumption. I knew piston rings are probably the cause of it but wanted to try the cheaper options first which are turbo , crank case breather and valve stem seals. I also ran 1:4 ATF in the oil with no results. It was time for timing belt anyway so I’ve replaced these things with no improvement at all. Few days ago I was researching to buy all parts involved in replacing the pistons and rings and somehow found you video. So I was “nothing to lose here. Let’s try”
The Berryman here in UK is a spray form carb cleaner. £19 for 2 bottles 453ml. Poured (sprayed)one bottle trough the glow plug holes and followed your directions topping up every few hours. At 26 hours mark cranked the engine to get everything left in cylinders installed the glow plugs an replaced the oil as the one in engine was very diluted and I was afraid not to destroy bearings. On initial crank no compression at all so STRONGLY SUGGEST ADDING SOME OIL IN CYLINDERS before any attempts to rotate or start the engine. With the oil in cranked to get it out and then glow plugs in and started first time. I will be driving another 600-700 miles for the next 3 days so I will update. Very happy for now. I hope the issue is sorted
Thanks again
hey thanks for the detailed message...a few viewers have asked about doing this to a diesel motor and I didn't have any experience with it...I`m really glad this worked - very interested in what your final numbers will end up as...I have gone through multiple TDis and haven't really had oil consumption issues before - too bad the new motor is experiencing this especially with all the emissions issues they've had...
Another viewer used the spray form carb clearner B12 and didn't seem to have much luck with it...here in Canada carb cleaner is very similar to break cleaner which is pretty strong and evaporates very quickly...were you able to scope the cylinders to see if the liquid actually made its way down? I'd be a little worried running carb cleaner through the motor so I think draining it without running was a good idea...you can add some engine treatment to your oil so the cleaning process continues over the first 5000km or so....
a lot of folks seem to be concerned about their catalytic converters running B12 in but as you've clearly seen, burning these amounts of oil continuously is way worse than running B12 for 20-30 min...
fingers crossed your issue is resolved - please keep us posted!
@cvetelinnizamski4835 how are your current results? I have high oil consumption on my Audi A4 2012 2.0 tdi. Looking into trying the piston soak myself.
Update on my consumption.
So far no consumption at all. The first 1000 miles the oil dropped slightly. Topped up 300ml to bring it back to max level and since I’ve made another 1000 miles without any oil consumption. I had no boroscope to inspect cylinders and I was little bit concerned where all the crap will go but so far it’s all okay.
@@tsvetelinnizamski great results... on the Q5bi also noticed the consumption improve with the mileage...I ultimately went through 1L in 5000km but the majority was gone by the first 2000
Enjoyed your vids. Trying to track down oil loss in wife's 2014 outback. Had hesdgasket replaced and losing oil ever since, about 1/4 to 1/3 qt in about 300 -400 miles (US). BOXER naturally aspirated. Watching you and DIY DAVE. Thanks for posting.
Not too familiar with that motor but it might be similar... although I'm not exactly sure how you would piston soak a horizontal motor lol
FB25 engines in the 2013+ Outback 2.5i have a well documented tendency to burn heaps of oil even when new. If you're under 100k miles, it may be a warranty issue, otherwise I would switch to an oil that is one grade heavier (I believe manual specifies 0w20, so try switching to a 0w30 or 5w30).
If it's a 3.6, all I can say is that it's probably got a really bad leak or your rings are completely toasted. Normal consumption for the 3.6 is 1qt every 2-6k miles. Normal consumption for the 2013+ 2.5 is 1qt every 1-3k miles.
Also, if you haven't already, I would definitely change out your PCV valve. It's an $8 part and won't take you more than 20 minutes to change, and if it's stuck shut, it will cause excess oil consumption like you've described. It can also cause leaks.
fucking subaru engines, they all consume oil in high quantities , and mine know also swallows the refrigerant
Use a liqui moly flush every oil change and use a catch can. Also a thicker oil will burn less
@@poleposition3065 Throw Rotella T6 5W-40 in there. I've seen dozens upon dozens of used oil analyses on Subie's and T6. Nothing beats it. Plus, it'll clean any gunk off your rings and then rejuvenate them.
I don't mean to run it one time, either. I mean for life. Check out the bob is the oil guy forums, look at the UOA's and see for yourself what's the best oil in those engines. HINT: It's Rotella T6.
Great video, thanks for posting it! I have been battling the same issue with our 2017 Audi Q7 since we got it with 94k miles, it's at 145k now. I replaced the PCV, no change. Tried various other things, but a Berryman's B12 piston soak with a similar method to yours has reduced our oil consumption from 1 quart per 400 miles, to over 1500 miles per quart. And so far it's still running fine, where before it would stumble and misfire a lot and occasionally set codes and go into limp mode. I plan to do another soak and see if I can get some further improvement.
Awesome results!!
How is this holding up? Our q7 3.0T with 124k is consuming 1 quart per 800 miles. Already did the pcv didn’t help much
@@hgas9631 4500km no light yet... doing the first oil change in a couple of weeks
@@ETMotorsports Same car & situation (but 2018) as @bryanjohnson6190 - I'm in the middle of piston soak now. Question - pistons look terrible - lots of build up/gunk. Going through lots of B12. At what point is it safe to close it back up and run? Do I need to extract gunk from cylinder? Any possible way to contact directly for advice and share of scope images?
@michaelholzbauer2218 hey you can get my whatsapp info from the FB page if you want to send pics... it's pretty normal to have gunk on top of the piston - my A4 was pretty sooty...B12 will soften all that up and if you crank with the plugs out it'll hopefully throw it out of the cylinder... beyond that you can try shop vac to collect the garbage or if you have a power bleeder that could work too
Thanks for taking the time to post this DIY. Will try it on my 2010 3.0 T Avant. Will let you know results. Ps I figure close to $250 US
$ to perform this process 2X and THANKS for calling your engine an ENGINE not a motor (electric) Ciao
Keep us posted on your results!
Great video, gonna try it on my 2014 Allroad to see if it helps with oil consumption, my car doesn't have a misfire, however I need to add a liter every 900km. Funny, I remember that ice storm, I'm from Montreal and lived through 2 ice storms, not fun at all. Thanks again for a great comprehensive video.
Good luck!
Clearly there are some positive results in this particular scenario. I'm inclined to try it on my 200,000 km engine which seen better days.
You should be proud you are killing it kiddos for you I think you did a way better job than most so called mechanics
Thanks for the kind words!
That coil harness is clever looking.
The b-12 works! I just did the same in my 2011 VW GTI. Thanks for the video. I would have never tried “snake oil” and just tore it down for new rings and updated oil control rings.
Awesome! Any more details? What was your consumption? What about after the treatment? Any issues wth the process?
@@ETMotorsports i was burning about a quart in about 300-400 miles. There was a large plume of smoke after any kind of 0% throttle decl. Compression and leakdown tests all looked good. I let the pistons soak for about 30 hrs. Put the first can in then topped off about 6 hrs later.
did you rotate the engine as well?
Bought this damm engine - Audi 2011 late model stw and has 170 000 km driven. So should i already look those parts that you did?. I think you are very very good at analyzing this engine!. I go fetch it tomorrow and drive home 420km. That speciment has oil consumption 0.7l / 8000km and is measured twice. Thank you being honest and professional!.
In my absolute belief, Berryman's B-12 is THE most powerful formula on the planet and it WORKS! I discovered this oh
back around 2003 and it does kick major butt!!
What did you use it in ? Some people complain that it will loosen the paint inside the oil pan and clog your oil pump inlet screen .
If you feel uneasy about using it in the engine oil don't do it! I have used the B-12 with a full can to 12 gallons of gas and so after driving it for a good half hour at highway speeds you should start feeling a difference as to how much better the engine is responding, provided that your spark plugs are in good shape. If you are worried about using it in the engine oil, just don't do it! I know of a whole different approach when it comes down to treating the engine oil of gently getting the sludge/gunk out of the crankcase and I have done it four times over in the last 50 years of turning wrenches with no catastrophic results. One of 3 methods being using 1 quart of kerosene to 4 quarts oil used engine oil. Preheat the engine to operating temp but then shut it down. Adjust you oil level to the 4 quart mark of the oil dipstick by siphoning out how ever that you may need to, to get it to the 4 quart mark on the dipstick. the second index mark below the full line should be the target on most vehicles out there. Restart the engine but then have a stopwatch handy that is already set up for 2 minutes on the timer. Have your quart of kerosene also at the ready. Just as you have just restarted the engine, pour the kerosene into the oil filler tube and then start the 2 minute timer. After 2 minutes are up, shut down the engine and allow the engine oil sit and soak for about 20 minutes but then pull the drain plug and replace your oil filter so as to complete your oil change. Do this procedure at the 3,000 mile oil change interval. An even more gentler means of doing this sort of thing is to use Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic with a premium oil filter and change it after 2,000 miles, but then change the oil and filter. After 2 oil changes using the Pennzoil Ultra, such as at the 3,000 mile interval the second time go around, you should markedly see a big difference in the color of the engine oil, make no mistake about it. I know of at least 2 other methods of doing these sort of things over the years. @@mixter7x7
When it comes down to using the B-12 for soaking the piston rings and the cylinder walls, personally, I would jump at the chance of freeing the piston rings, knowing that my engine was already doomed to a nearly fatal fate. My engine for instance has over 180K and it has that very issue! If you are really smart about it, do you research ahead of time and view as many videos as possible. Stakes as they may be, if you know a little about your engine to start with, that is a big plus before trying anything at all! Take for instance, the amount of buildup and crusties that are in the oil filler passageway and the amount of crud inside the PCV valve hose and whether it is severe enough to get worried over. Also, the amount of crud inside the air intake plenum areas looking down towards the valves. AND how much carbon or how thick it is on top of the pistons as well. All of these things that I just mentioned can be a measuring tool by using a scope camera and taking time out to verify just how big of a problem it might be moving forward. If you don't have access to a bore scope camera, just pull those valve covers off and that could be a very good indicator as to whether to take the plunge using B-12 to help free up the piston rings. If there is mega sludge like hell won't have it, you still might decide one way or another. But yeah, do take the time out with an abundance of caution. @@mixter7x7
@@craigtegeler4677⁰000
Great video and showing your process. I have a 2019 VW Sportwagen with the 1.8T. I have about 105,000 km. I do my my oil changes at 8,000 km from day one even though Volkswagen insisted i should do it at 15,000 km i was being "wasteful". A friend of mine who is a independent VW Audi tech suggested I use Seafaom 500 km before an oil change. Sometimes I forget, but appear to lost I minimal amount of oil. I should look up a good way to do this for my wife's Subaru in 5,000 km she has to replace all the oil basically.
Hey good points! I've had a few people ask about subaru - i couldn't figure out how to do it unless the engine is on a stand or you somehow tilt the car 🤣
Very cool info. I have been a skeptic re: what additive can do for a vehicle, especially for an engine or transmission. But, as of late I have used seafoam to clean out older engines with trult spectacular results. Yours is a more extreme situation with the oil consumption (and plug fouling) situation being corrected. From what I have been reading the lower piston ring temsion levels are largely responsible for increased oil consumption, where the ring tension is reduced in an effort to increase fuel mileage (less internal friction), but it tends to keep the rings from helping the oil control rings from scraping off excess oil from the cylinder walls. Oncde the oil control rings begin to build up deposits that prevent free flowing of scraped oil down to the crankcase we get into trouble, as the compression rings are rendered nearly useless in helping with excess oil on the cyllinder walls due to loss of tension pressure. Thus, I can see how helping clean those deposits will help reduce oil consumption.
Anyway, thank you for sharing this info. I look foward to seeing the rsults of a similar approach with your sister's car, and have subscribed to your channel in hopes of seeing that video once you have time to put it together. Having our own How To CZcams channel, I get the work involved in producing even ad hoc videos to share info like this. Feel free to check it out at:
www.youtube.com/@gilberthale7777/videos
thanks for the note - I`ll keep you guys updated on the Q5...doing the oil change in a week or so
@@ETMotorsportslooking forward to this. What year is the q5? I have a 2015 that is destroying oil!
Absolutely worked for my 2015 Passat
I would have placed the boot and coil assemblies over the holes instead of paper towels. Would reduce evaporation.... loved the mis-matched plugs used!
that's a good point - it would close it off better for sure but to be honest I don't think much of this evaporated at all...I've had B12 sit on my table for days and it doesn't really go down much if at all so this is mostly to keep other junk from falling in...
back in the 90s we did something similar and had great results using diesel poured in while motor was at operating temp, let it soak for 72 hours on the pistons, sometimes in the oil too depending on sludge build up on american I4 V6 V8 non turbo models
That would be a great substitute and easily accessible everywhere...I don't think it's as strong of a solvent but it's safe for the motor
I used Diesel in my B7 2 TFSI, it definitely reduced oil consumption, but it's not gone completely. But the car is currently in the garage due to low oil pressure... again, so I will take the oil pan off soon and see if the oil pick-up is clogged again. probably shit from the engine I could not reach the last time I did this came loose, and now I have to clean it out one more time. hopefully, that will permanently fix it as I will never change the oil as late as the service interval in the manual says to change.
@propm yeah diesel would be a fairly safe alternative although not as strong as the B12
@@ETMotorsports What about running a gallon of Diesel in a full 20 gallon gas tank once or maybe a couple of times? Would that clean things up or cause a problem?
@@labradoodle5097 that wouldn't do anything about the piston rings... might get some misfires too
Hello from Oregon , I like your application and research. Great video, very well done.
HUGE oversight possibly! You addressed the concerns of the B12 product not containing lube and not designed as a crankcase additive! Huge caution needed when running B12 with engine oil! B12 is very / extremely aggressive. As a piston soak its great.
Absolutely do not run an engine with B12 in the oil!
SF, MMO, and others state on the can and product info, are suitable for such applications.
B12 being so aggressive works extremely fast at cleaning. So more attention is required in the cleaning Prossess
Yeah you really don't want to run it for a long period - for a short period of time or should be ok... plenty of folks have run it as an engine flush but you're right that stuff like seafoam and liquimoly engine flush are safer for sure...I think it comes down to how bad your problem is... on this Q5 the consumption was bad enough that I needed that extra bit with the b12 flush
@@ETMotorsports10mins?
15mins?
The amount of time to run b12 in your engine
@teddy_awdB19 honestly anything you're comfortable with...I did 15 min idle in the A4 and I did 30 min at hwy speeds in the Q5... anything longer than that I think you start asking for trouble
Also, yes, you aren't supposed to run the Chemtool in the engine oil for over 10 minutes, so good call on changing the oil out. It is a very potent solvent, though, that's for sure.
The slant deck presents a problem with the piston soak method. you need to pull the right side of the vehicle up on car ramps, just the right side front and rear wheel in order to get the cylinders pointing more vertical orientation. The product leaked past the rings at the lowest point and not evenly all around the cylinder wall. Everything drained into the crankcase at only one area in the combustion chamber that's why hardly anything came out when you cranked it over before reinstalling the spark plugs.
I found that the Berryman product works better for chemical soak on valves, etc than any other liquid I could purchase on the market. It MELTS sludge. A godsend for direct injection engines. Using sea foam through the gas tank doesn’t reach the valves and pistons btw for these direct injection engines. Neither does it reach those areas even if you spray into the throttle body. Just an fyi that people conveniently forget.
A great video, I'm going to try this with my mini, as it's failed it's mot on smoke, but it's not that bad, so hopefully this will help, thanks for your tutorial.
Good luck!
I am dealing with 2007 toyota camry 2.4l. For past 2 years been drinking oil by gallon and adding 1 quart every 300 mile or once a week
I have used seafoam in the past and adding 1 quart every 1200 mile .After viewing this video decided to do it with b-12 and i am at 2500 mile with no oil burning. The point that i am making is that this can do marvel and i give it 100% that you will not be sorry .Looks like i can change oil every 5000 mile with no adding in between oil changes.
That's awesome! Glad it worked
You need the piston update, oil scrape ring is modified...
Also the PCV valve is updated together with an ECU update...
Is it possible to test all modern coolant types (G12, G12+, G12++, G13) for spark plug fouling on engines that burn a small amount of coolant due to a head gasket leak? I have small Ford Focus Mk1 1.6 engine that burns 50-100 mL of coolant every 1000km or so. After hot restarting the engine (e.g., after stopping 15mins for shopping) the engine misfires heavily and jerks. By applying 3-4 presses of throttle up to 3000rpm the misfire goes away. This happens due to coolant leaking to one of the 4 cylinders. This is on G12. I want to see if G13 could be better in my case.
I have found using better oil to help mine the most. At 5k oil changes I use a qt on engine with 180k miles. When I bought it it used 3 qts of X big brand oil in that same interval 5k. I found using a different brand with a better test result for evaporation helped greatly. Also intake stays clean with OEM PCV setup. FSI 2.0T
I wonder how you would do this on a boxer engine..glad it worked for you!
I did the soak on my 2016 Q5 92k miles that was burning almost a full quarter every 300 miles. Only bought one can of b12. Soaked and spun engine after 2 hours, repeat the steps. So far I’m 400 plus miles no oil burnt.
Awesome results
@@ETMotorsports yes I did not have much time that night. After the second and last round of b12 to top off the pistons, I let it sit overnight. I think that helped a lot. And I put spark plugs on
@@ETMotorsports I’m now at 1600 miles since that oil chance and have not needed to add oil. The sensor read about half
@@chrisguillen1495 nice!
@@ETMotorsports thank you for documenting your experience. Without it I would be spending hundreds in oil or dealer fees. Great results!
Great video. I have the same car, what's the part# for the oil dipstick? My car didn't come with one.
que bueno !!! que alegria !! gracias por la informacion !
Thanks for the video. It will help all the VAG drivers, and maybe more. Derek Bieri uses the B12 and often diesel oil for more dinosaurus. So that`s allright... I think...right?
Yeah the diesel oil generally contains more detergents which is why I used the Rotella T6 with my second cycle... the oil doesn't match VAG spec for the engine but should be ok every 4-5 oil changes
Have a 2003 Lexus IS300 with 270K miles on it. Burns 1 quart every 2000 miles. Has been doing it since 150K miles. No visible oil leaks or blue smoke. Gonna give this a shot and let you know the results.
Good luck!
I'm in the same boat as you with my 2002 is300 using shell rotella atm
impeccable
Nice video. I have a 2015 A5 2.0T and it's doing great. No oil burning issues. I think it may have the upgraded pistons from factory.
2015 and on are fine, they have the updated rings...
I thought it's from 2013 they put better rings
2015s and on are not fine lol
Hello from Calabria, italy! I have a 3 cil 1.4 TDI seat ibiza 2004, 410.000 km now!!!!! Consumption oil is 2 L in 10.000 km, compression is ok, (30bar in all cilinder) turbo is ok (no leak) I'm sure piston ring is clogghed. Try your work.....🎉🎉🎉
Hey - thanks for the note...1L per 5000km it's pretty good compared to the numbers we're dealing with :)
I have a toyota quest 2015 model .car consumes oil.and burn oil .what might be the problem.coz engine was done 2months ago .
Unorthordox but effective!
Modern day wizardry!!
I've always used a little Marvel Mystery Oil in my fuel and in my crankcase oil. I also like (from Amazon) 'New BG 44K Platinum, EPR, MOA'. I think the bg products really clean out the sludge and gum from your engine and keep your engine clean. The Marvel seems to dissolve baked on carbon and keep things well lubed up and helps to you keep a clean engine too ! The Marvel also helps to lubricate your fuel pump. Rislone works nice too, to help decarbonize your engine.
Lots of folks praise MMO...I have to add it to my toolbox
I’ve copied your strategy with B12 on a 2.0 TFSI, results are unbelievable, oil consumption is pretty much zero after soaking procedure, still max oil after 1.500km on the highway, unbelievable…
Great results!!
Foreal. Used the same method. But only 1 can and it worked real good. Oil came out jet black
Do you think this would work on a 2017 Audi Q7 3.0T motor that is burning quite a lot of oil? I recently replaced the PCV system with no improvement. I just performed the Luiqimoly Engine flush along with the Liquimoly Ceratec oil additive, but I am already seeing the oil level go down after just a few hundred miles. Thank you for the detailed videos and explanations!
I'm doing one this week in the same situation... hoping to report back and have a video within a few weeks...I know of a few viewers who have been successful on their 3.0Ts
Great video man I’ve been dealing with same issues with my a4 b8 did a valve clean changed injectors, spark plugs, coils, new injectors keep getting clogged after short period now I’m going to try piston soak and see if it helps.
Any updates
@@Abdullahkhattab24 Yes i changed oil at 450 miles im currently at 900 miles with no issues, car is running better and sounds better than before and even better gas mileage i recommend piston soak 👍
What treatment you used?
@@Abdullahkhattab24 The Berryman b12 2 bottles and seafoam high mileage in oil just like he did in the video
This is awesome. BTW, what rims in the back seat??
Picked up a set of 18s for the GLander Duratracs :) time to get that truck dirty
You should probably try running Valvoline Restore and Protect in these cars all the time, if they make the weight your care requires. I'm hearing good things about this oil and piston ring deposits.
I poured 2 bottles of the Berryman’s throughout a day and a half, then I poured some oil back into each cylinder to lubricate the rings the car seems to run a lot better already. It was consuming about half of its oil between 5k mile oil changes, I’ll check back in after some time I changed the oil today 110,200 miles.
how is it going man? also how much oil did you "sprinkle" onto the pistons?
@@carenthusiast6748 just enough to wet the rings
iridium tips on spark plugs are super brittle. I don't think its a good idea to just drop them into the holes like that. Could be a disaster if the tip breaks off and lands on the cylinder.
I shuddered the way he just threw them in. Great way to narrow the pre-gapped plugs. 🤦
The problem with these motors is manufactures don’t care a lot of these motors are giving problems well under 100,000 miles I see as low as 60,000 miles so basically 60,000 miles you’re ready for a new car to the point that that Hass to go in the junkyard because to do the motor the right way for your average person outweighs the price of the car unless you have all these tools and you’re a mechanic I got time to do it you could rebuild it the right way. I personally think we should stop buying these cars I have a 2012 cc this is my last Volkswagen I will ever buy because if you can’t make piston rings after all these years of building cars you’re not worth my money.
@@monkkayllc446 Yeah, they don't make 'em like they used to. If you ask me... The older 302/5.0's and 351w/5.8's were just unbeatable. The Ford 4.6 V8 SOHC was also an indestructible engine. As was the 4.6 DOHC 32v... it's just more rare, but it's a wicked engine.
But now? Manufacturers can't be trusted to build a simple naturally aspirated engine, let alone a 2.0 liter 4 cyl turbo. I've heard Honda is already having issues with their 1.5 4cyl turbo engines in the Civic Si's. And I believe it because my sister has one. The DI (direct injection) is apparently diluting the oil so bad that they're spinning bearings. I'm sure they call for 5W-20, also, so that's always stupid.
If people only knew how thick ANY oil is at start up they'd stop fretting over the 6-8cst difference between an xW-20 and xW-40. I mean, at 100C/212F, most xW-20's are 7.x cst. At start up (or rather, 40C) they're probably around 70cst. At 40C, Rotella T6 5W-40 is more around 115cst, I believe, but at 100C/212F it's a near 15cst oil that shears down to 13.6cst and stays there for the remainder of its time.
You and anyone reading this should look at some UOA's at bob is the oil guy forums and see how oils perform. There are two oils out there that beat everything in wear metals.
Rotella T6 5W-40 and Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. However, the best oil in the world doesn't prevent design flaws. I don't even want a new car. I want what I've always known to be reliable. I'm about to get an older Honda Civic or something for daily driving. Older as in 2012. Gotta have one with a manual transmission, too.
Ford, Chevy and Dodge have disgraced themselves in comparison to what they were up until the early 2000's.
"Dissolvent"?
The word is solvent.
dis·sol·vent
I’m glad the additives worked and the new set of spark plugs the Rotella was a great decision and have you changed your coil packs since you’ve owned the car and I would probably run the Berrymans in the fuel tank once a month until you get rid of the car
yeah B12 in the fuel is a great idea...these things do get the injectors dirty so it doesn't hurt to run a can of cleaner through the fuel system...I generally replace the coil-packs when they go bad - there's not much point in replacing an item that's working correctly...in all honesty in 20+ years of working with coil-packs I must have had a grand total of 3 bad parts...
one idea is to drain, fill with ATF... and idle for awhile. Super cleans - and losens sticking rings. Then drain and fill w normal oil - or w some amount of (LUCAS) thicker. now ill watch your video.........cheers!
Hmm I've never tried to run ATF in my motor... interesting idea
I change my oil every 3000 miles and use seafoam in my gas tank every oil change. I own a 2.0T with 40,000 miles on it. It runs exactly the same as new.
This worked ?? Absolutely f"ing amazing that it did. And weird !
Haha yeah I was pretty surprised but it does a good job of loosening the rings to reseal the cylinders I guess
THIS WORKS!!!!!!
Haha glad you had success!
Thank you for your vdo , i need to follow your step, i have audi q5 2.0TFSI 2011 (85,000km) burning 1liter every 300-500km, but in my country i cannot find B12 Chemtool, can you suggest another product good enough to replace B12 , and i have question do i need to do this every time when change the engine oil? Thank you very much
Hey a few viewers have been able to order B12 from ebay and ship to their country...as for alternatives you can try LiquiMoly Engine Flush Pro Line or their injector cleaner alternative
My 2009 Corolla 1ZZFE engine doesnt burn oil. Once it started to burn I put half a quart of baby oil and almost immediatelly after that, the oil consumption stop! Naphthenic oil has a huge solvency/solubility of deposits.
Baby oil?
@@MultiRafael23 Yep, mineral USP oil. Naphthenic mineral oil.
There’s another channel where a guy seems to have identified Naphta to be one of the 3 core ingredients of seafoam
@@wolfgang6028 Yes, its Naphthenic Pale Oil (Baby oil) about 70%, Isopropryl alcohol about 15% and Naphta the rest 15% (an aromatic like gasoline). That's why it works at early stages, not on coked sludge.
Very common for the ring lands to get gummed up on these engines.
Hi Mate, Thanks a lot for the video,
I did it and it worked, gave car a very good acceleration so far the car has not given any pop up after doing 500ks but the blowby ahs started to occur, can smell oil after long drive from intake pipe thats going in to rocker cover.
should i be doing the process again what do you reckon?
Hmm i would wait for 5k before repeating the process... time it with the next oil change so you're not wasting oil... for the smell though it could be coming from many places so unless you're still burning a lot of oil, don't repeat the process... look for another source of oil - maybe PCV
Keep in mind that what you're seeing as oil loss after each treatment is probably partially due to the more volatile treatment fluids in the crankcase burning off in the cylinders and evaporating then burning off through the PCV. That will show as an oil level loss.
It was not a fluk...thankyou..I have low piston psi.
How the sparks plugs are going on?
Hi thanks for the video, so much time and effort gone into sharing this information, I will try on my 2010 Audi a5 2.0 tfsi. Is 1 can of Berryman b12 enough?
You'll need 2 I think... otherwise you're doing only one pour
Thanks a lot from London, everything so expensive here. 1 can costs £15 on eee bay.
Will buy 2 .
Just so I get the steps right.
1) soak pistons with 1 can, rotate engine, leave to soak for 24 hours.
2) repeat process with 2nd can.
3 after 24 hours, crank engine emptying cylinder.
4) run engine for 10-15 minutes
5) replace oil and filter and most likely spark plugs.
Have I missed anything?
Can I get away with this method.
Thank you again, appreciate your help, newbie enthusiast so I don’t wanna mess anything up.
Forgot to add before soaking pistons to align pistons so they are at level height
I was shocked when you mentioned the "normal" oil consumption 😮.
I have mostly owned Japanese cars but none of them consumed more than half a liter/10.000 km. I never added any oil to them because I service them once a year.
Yup... the acceptable spec from VW is insane
I was shocked as well I have a 2010 CTS-V wagon with 726,000 km I change my oil every 7000km don't burn any oil
Trying it on a 2012 Ram 1500 with the 4.7L…..old worn out work truck, burning one litre of oil per 500km….I mixed engine oil with ATF plus4 instead oil 15w-40 diesel oil, transmission fluid has a better cleaning power in the fluid, ran engine in low rear around the block a couple times, drained oil and filter, refill with new oil…
I've heard of folks using transmission fluid as well - what ratio are you doing? Do you plan to run the ATF mix permanently or just for a bit? I think ATF is also used if the engine has been sitting for a while
@@ETMotorsports all my cars I run ATF mixed with engine oil, my Honda CRV 2003 with 442000km still running with a 4.5 5w20 capacity and 1/4 litre of ATF
In Diesel motors we can do this process? If the clean fluid don't disappear from top of piston, I'm diesel sparks will not be able to to start??
Yup works on diesels too... if the B12 hasn't gone down, just hit the starter a few times to clear up the cylinders before putting the plugs back
Hi there, would putting b12 or seamfoam into the combustion chamber wont hurt the head gaskit ? Or gaskit by pistons? TIA
no issues with the head gasket...
Hi, thanks for the awesome video. i have bought Audi A5 and waiting its delivery next week. 2010 A5 and same issue EPC light, ring pistons to be replaced. Hope it works, fingers crossed.
Have you tried or know if YamaLube Ring Free fuel additive or BG EPR 109 will be good one to use?
Hey EPC light is often related to oil pressure issues with the intake cam... I've got another video for oil pressure - check that out... if the EPC is coming up at roughly 1500rpm it's oil pressure related... the rings cause misfires because of fouled plugs but I haven't seen an EPC issue wth them
@@ETMotorsports Ahh ok gotcha…im here in Australia and Berrymans B12 one can is A$38 (haha ) I think its $5 in Canada. Anyways ordered few cans… Fingers crossed, car coming next week and will definitely let you know
I will look now at your EPC video
Any idea on YamaLube or BG EPR ?
What is alternative for B-12? Im from europe and we dont have this stuff here thanks
You can try LiquiMoly engine flush pro line but it may not have the same results
This piston ring problem happened on a lot of different makes in the early 2000's.......even Toyota.
Hey, Ford forgot how to put spark plugs into a cylinder head when they made the Triton 3 valve V8 pick up truck engine. The spark plugs would blow out complete with threads.
Did the B12 with a hyundai sonata. Went from burning a quart a week to no oil loss in between oil changes
That's great! Crazy that so many manufacturers are having the same issues
hey can you link all the products please and thanks
Im having the same issue with my A3 8p. I bought her used, so I have no idea as to how meticulous other people are. This is a GREAT video! Have you come across other solutions by any chance? You said you put 110ml? Of the cleaner on each cylinder ....would more be better? Or just not recommended?
you can run as much as you want really...BUT if you do end up using more, maybe consider draining the oil before running the motor...
You have a great diction, and a great little accent there.
Do you think it is import to leave the B12 in the oil or can you drain the oil and refill with fresh oil before starting?
hey I leave the B12 in every time I do a soak and run the engine with it inside for 20-30 min...if you're worried you can run it on idle instead of driving around with it - on my Q5 I drove it pretty heavy on the hwy for 30 min before draining it. On the Q7 (not my car) I ran it on idle until the temperature came up and then replaced it. It depends on your level of comfort with the procedure but running B12 inside would help continue the carbon dissolving and cleaning of the motor...
When manually cranking the engine, do you turn the crank Clockwise or Counter Clockwise
Always always always clockwise... otherwise you're going against the chain tensioners... if you get stuck like I did you can carefully back up a bit but can't turn the engine that way for a long time
I think I might try this on my 2010 Audi A5
How bad is the consumption? Check out the second video - I added my more details
1200km? how much oil did you use? 4.6l or 5l?
Never seen someone just drop plugs into the holes, ouch. Use a socket that can hold on to them or a piece of line or even use the coil plug if you have to to get them started gently. Dropping them like that will often bend the electrode ruining the gap or worse snap it off or short them.
why no video shows the part where the crankshaft spins 5 times every 6 hours? this is important for us who are not mechanics!
Valvule oild have a cram before that is a sensor and get stock you shut cleaned also wen you change the valve
I’m using a a quart every 300 or so fsi 2.0t and a random misfire at ideal at random times and at fast takeoffs gotta try this out changed Pcv valve and hoses so I’m hoping this helps me out
Good luck... yeah the pcv can't account for that much oil... sounds like your engine is going the same as mine wth the misfire... have you checked the plugs?
@@ETMotorsports changed them and the coils
i see you doing flush as per diydave instructions. i also did it but in 20min drive i did full throttle pulls and my oil consupmtion reduced to around 1/9 from what i had. of course, if issue are not gummed piston rings but just worn engine this wont help
I"ve seen guys get the motor hot and then attach a tube that sucks water into the intake side of the turbo to steam the crud out of the rings in diesels. Might work in this case as well.
hmm you can do this with SeaFoam but at best you`ll get cleaner piston crowns...this won't do anything for the rings...this method is also used sometimes for cleaning carbon buildup on valves but anybody that's ever tried to clean it by hand can tell you it takes A LOT more than water or seafoam vapor to clean proper carbon build-up
Long maintenance intervals that the manufacturers are pushing is what’s causing the issues. Some of these cars only require the oil to be changed between 10k to 15k miles… that’s crazy smh. Do the maintenance much earlier than that.
2016 Audi Q3 - doing the piston soak. Using my scope at each step. All plugs out and labeled left (1) to right (4)
Saturday- scope cylinder heads - crusty carbon - 110 ml Berrymans each cylinder - soak
Sunday - scoped, all Berrymans off the piston / turned engine to move the piston / 2nd soak - 110 ml each - soaking
Tuesday - scoped (1) - dry (2) & (4) look moist but generally no standing Berrymans (3) - puddle remains this time which I took as a positive sign that it couldn’t get by the piston ring?
I placed paper towels over each hole and turned the engine, 3 was soaked, 2+4 ended up very damp and 1 was dry.
So I put 110 ml in number 1 and will see how that looks when I can update
My next steps will be to check each cylinder and use my air compressor to make sure there is no fluid then get some oil into the dry cylinders, replace the old plugs and drive it
Having put 2 Berryman cans into the cylinders I have essentially put two into the crankcase as they have dripped down the cylinder walls
I will then change oil, filter and plugs and cross my fingers
This is not that complicated but if anyone has advice to the above please let me know. Thanks
Hey good luck - looking forward to the results... so far most people have reported very random results from each cylinder as far as draining goes...I saw the same thing - they weren't consistently draining in the same manner so I wouldn't worry about it too much
Sheesh 2016 eh? Shouldn't be having these issues... how bad is the consumption?
Thank you for your videos, they have given me confidence to do this. Got a scope and that is very helpful and gives an amateur confidence.
I would say a qt every 275-300 miles
Btw, the existing plugs were all pretty crusty white
Also, what is your opinion of the oil change method where they vacuum it out? Mine is it leaves a lot of gunk in the pan that contributes to this Audi problem
I’ll be back when I have some results- work is impacting this experiment but I am taking satisfaction doing this myself
So thank you again