You could probably get away with no fasteners when you tuck behind the weather strip. Half the time you almost can't remove them if you make a mistake because they lock right in.
Brother I had no idea that they had those profile machines. Up until today I consider myself well versed and bending aluminum. You have really opened my eyes. My prices are about to go up
I scrolled through the some of the comments to see if anybody already mentioned it and didn’t see anything. Was just going to mention using a sill trim piece. Easily bend them out of scrap ripped pieces and it only a few seconds to bend. Then you can run those up to the weather stripping with a clean edge and nail them on and slip your brick mold trim into it and not need to face nail anything and the hold is super tight. It all makes way more sense once you see it if you’ve never done it like that. Maybe you knew that, maybe you didnt. Just thought I’d share. I like to see how people do things different to see if I can improve anywhere. I’ll definitely be using your j-channel method, not that I was slow but you just proved to be more efficient. Well done 👍🏻
I don't "square off" the wrap unless I know the customer doesn't plan on installing a storm door in the future. There's a lot of little things I do differently with my wraps but I have learned a ton from you, man. I wish you had more content that was relevant to window/door installation when I started doing exteriors. However, I did learn the score and snap method from one of your previous videos. I've taken a lot of your siding tricks and made them my own. Keep it up, bro!
It's always great to see a real pro demo something. It really does help us DIY farm guys look better when we have a pole barn or chicken coop to build with metal siding and trim.... Because we got to see it done right.
If if you would have been that in 2 different pieces one for the break mode and the other for the jam you would have been able to install a storm door later
Watched 2 of your video's and I really enjoy them. As a retired commercial electrician of 45 years I certainly appreciate quality work and your communication you have with your guys. At the end squeezing's that guys head and giving him the finger( but not). Funny! NOW, The big question how many people tell you you look like a small Baker Mayfield?? Quarterback???Browns NFL??? Great videos!!! RG
turned out very slick man! I hired a guy to do my siding a couple years ago and he has done a such terrible job, I had to pull everything back apart to redo! at that time I was traveling for work and wasn't able to supervise anything, so that's on me. I'm planning on going back and capping all my brick molds on the door first before I put my siding back on!
I've got a brake buddy aswell I have the brick mould wheel and the rip wheel for the fascia. It helps us be unique in my area and offer something not alot of other guys do. Yes the rip def helps reduce oil canning. One other thing I do is silicone all my aluminum on and dont use alot of nails
i hear ya on that. as soon as i bought it i was thinking about how i should charge more for custom bends and offer that instead of regular ribbed fascia from the factory.
If you do a 3/8th return on your sheet metal pieces that you bent for the door (the part that you had measured at 2 5/8th), you can stuff that perfectly into the weaterstripping and it will not only seal off the wood it also holds it in place so tightly you may not even need trim nails. Keep up the great work brother, I've been watching this channel on and off for some time now.
Instead of caulking your upper corners when do your two verticals add half an inch and bend that half inch 90 with hand seamers. And against the weatherstripping install a sil with a hem then you slide your caps into them same as a gable trim. Use a soffit stapler to fasten through your vinyl J. You shouldn’t have any exposed fasteners. Congrats on that brake buddy. Nice tool !
You’re a beast and everything you do. So when are you coming to work for me unless you need help then I’ll be ready to learn more to help in making my craft better. Thanks for the awesome content. It’s helped me a whole.
always wanted to know how to do everything! i'm starting to put it all together. i love this shit. thank you but i got too much going on to be an employee ever again lol
no need for caulking, attracts dirt and grime, especially on white aluminum. Instead of cutting the entire thing off, cut down on your bend and fold it 90 degrees.
Put a reverse with a hem on the door side and rain flaps on your header return. You're supposed to trim the door before the J and use a 1"-1 1/2" reverse under the J to flash the door. That's how us Old School Vinyl Guy's do it. I even tape my reverse to the housewrap before hanging the J. I don't usually brake buddy my wraps because the miters look like crap.
That molding tool is badass 👍🏽 I like to do a 1” bend with a hand brake on the inside top of the risers where you cut them off flush...that way the top inside corners are all aluminum vs having to caulk them. But clean job bro...I like the attention to detail
Bend 3/8 tuck into door seal and top of the side jambs should be bent at a 90 that you don't have a gap where they meet if you do it this way you won't have exposed nails. Also cut the legs at the angle of the sill. I recommend the tapco gauges no need to keep pulling tape measure out.
I work for renewal as well work looks good but man you skipped a lot of steps. No bends in the top of jambs..shouldn’t need caulk those seems looks way cleaner. No tabs on the top. Threshold should have a kick plate so it doesn’t flex so much. Cladding should be caulked to threshold so keep water from rotting the wood jamb. Also if u do a 3/8” bend into the weather stripping you don’t need to nail it.
Great video. Only thing I do differently is make a flap at the top instead of cutting out or in the slight angle you did it will close all that in and won’t have to caulk those corners.
Instead of cutting a big notch out of side pieces on the inside bend out an 1 1/2” + tab onto the header. It gives you a place to nail under a lap without the need for caulking. We used to make a small flange onto the buck reveal and nail the covers to the edge of the buck. Then we’d put a separate pan (tab at the top) to cover buck reveal nails and tucked behind the weatherstripping. This makes the cover backed by wood at the inside corner less vulnerable to inevitable impacts
Videos are always on point 👍🏻 i clean our metal with spray nine , can usually get it at home depot cleans the pvc coil nice as well along with the siding, give it a try you wont be disappointed
Hell yea man. This is the stuff that people need. I like how simple you make it instead of the goobs on here who just want to show off there metal brake attachments. Nothing wrong with sawhorses and cutting on the ground!
I put the xtra 90 where the flat stock meets the weather strip and tuck it between the weatherstrip and the door frame, not sure if its correct but it gets rid of some unsightly nails and cleans up that edge. Great job man keep up the great work.
You are supposed to fold the top of your side piece so that it goes behind your header piece. It gives you a nice spot for a hidden nail. Also , The Edge meeting the weather seal should have a small return to go into the weather seal crack or that bare metal Edge should have a hem or should be returned into a piece of aluminum undersill caulked and nailed onto the wood. All three options illiminate rippling. The undersill nailed behind the trim peice illuminates the need for all face nails on that surface
Wow.. never heard of a brake buddy. I'm about to attempt making that same angle by hand. Not my first time using the brake but my first time wrapping windows with multi angled aluminum. It's not hard though once you get the pattern down
Nice work! I prolly would have bent 1 tabs on the sides at the top to tuck under the head trim. It finishes a lot cleaner and protects the wood alot better from water
White coil lacquer thinner works great on a rag to wipe it down after installation. Do not use on any colors other than white! For color coil, use tub-o-towls they work great as well.
@@NWIVeteranConstruction Bro that looks sick compared to the metal work I get around here! They just bend 90's so I didnt know there was a tool for that! I'm sure the metal guys know about it but they just cut corners! You taught me something new yet again! 👍
You should nab yourself a cutting rack for the top of that break. It consists of I think 5 rollers on a mount with a rotating bracket arm and a table with measurements scribed on the side, your aluminum sits on the far end of the bracket, you roll out exactly how much you need (without having to use your tape) and then simply slide the cutter. Boom, in roughly 1.5 seconds you have the exact length of sheet you need, at an exact 90.
Looks good. Only advice I would give is to put a bend on the vertical legs to cover the gap that you needed to caulk. In my opinion less caulk is always better
OMG ahahahah at 8:03 when he said Mike.... i had my eyes closed for a few cause i was getting sleepy and i heard him say mike.. and i opened my eyes like wthhh, what is the chances, he says mike while my eyes are closed hahahh, and my name is mike to... tripped me out lol
@@trimmasterld hmmm, maybe you know something I don't lol. My 1st bend is almost always the outside of the brick mold. I always clamped the remaining portion in the brake and ran it across.
@@arihooley2046 see I usually bend starting from the inside like the jam side or on a window I start bending from side touching the indie first...honestly I don’t like the brake buddy look...too flat looking ...
You did a nice tidy job there. Golden like a shower had me laughing big time! I have a question if you don't mind. Recently I had a new front door installed and they fastened the brick mold to the jam with small nails on the front face and then filled them (albeit badly) with putty. Is this a normal practice? I find some of them very noticeable. Thanks.
Its a bit more cost but.run a bead of clear silicone.top bottom and full lenth .moisture and a bug barriers inner and outer.because water is driven by wind.helps with furniture moving snags too
Looks clean. Able to mount a storm door on that? Is that wise? I have a door that has a storm door mounted to the brick mold, I want to wrap it on tin, then mount the door over it so it looks cleaner.
Been capping doors and windows for 20 yrs never used the brake buddy. We just use the brake to bend everything. Good to see how it works though. Thanks for the How to video!
Should have been snap-locked into a finish channel against the door. That can also be fabricated on the break or use vinyl. A raw edge there and face nailing is no Bueno
i bend the brick mold and where it touches the inside3/8 jam i put 3/8 back bend on that then bend the inside jam 3/8 by whatever and 3/8 behind the weather sill.six pieces. incase they want a storm door later . i have six storm doors to install this week .i hate storm doors but i think there necessary.
17:27 quad wouldn't crack. Should have caulked the sill. Nice work though. I also recommend folding the header over the rails. 13:09 Making your piece slightly longer than needed and the brake buddy rolling on either end doesn't matter. 4:10 Again though nice work.
Nice job but I usually fold my tops over on the sides Also certain jobs I will Form my J channel into the Window or door capSo the aluminum accepts my SidingI've been in the business since 1984 love your videos though love your enthusiasm I actually for the last few years have been out of the business only doing some jobs on the side
My dad would always tell us to quit whining if we were cold while working. He’d say the heats in the tools son work faster lol. Them boys don’t need new jackets they just gotta work harder 😂
haha naw they needed em. nobody's complained about cold yet besides yesterday. prolly 25 degrees with 20 mile an hour winds. sleeting/raining and nobody was prepared lol
I wrap a door like that so the aluminum follows all the Bends of the door including that half-inch befor the door jam and a 3/8inch tucked into the wheather strip & no sylicone on bottom
You know man, I respect how fucking honest you are. We all fuck up in construction/ life. Nevermind the shit we talk, at the end of the day you're the one doing good work.
So when ( not if )it comes time to replace the door weather striping and you nailed right through it . How much are you going to charge to fix that problem. Maybe put Under sill trim on first or a hem piece and nail back past the weatherstripping and push trim in to that. The panter will thank you. They take them out to paint doors so paint won't stick to striping so doors can be shut. Just talk to them. I'm very surprised no one has not called you out on it. But hay what do I know I'm just one guys opinion.
That sill plate should be reinforced with a 2x4 also when your bending metal always Theron side out duh everyone knows that. Also if when you mark the sides you go up an inch and back an inch cut the square out then cut to were you wanted to cut it off fold the one piece forward and the other down and it will make it look and function so much better
@@NWIVeteranConstruction No i dont think its more frustrating, and the other thing is the aluminum hugs the wood better, rather than having the gaps under it where if someone beats up the doorway moving stuff in and out (always seems to) then it would hold up better rather than dent or crush in.On my old Tapco brake a half inch is as small as it wants to bend so its a no brainer, i dont even have to measure it.
I always see people scoring the metal with a knife, which is fine but dont run your knife all the way on the brake. It was mess up your teeth after a while on the brake. I usually score th metal about 3/4 of my length and then go from the other side. That way my knife tip never hits my brake teeth at all
dang! lol well you can always re do it if you want. and yea man i don't always film and i get busy with life so i might go awol here and there. just know that if the suns shining you can bet your ass i'm involved in some kind of exterior house work lmfao
@@NWIVeteranConstruction I figured you were chasing all that work. Hope Thanksgiving you put your feet up and relaxed....play it smart you dont wanna be doing this shit in your 50s....body breaks down...
Try a 3/8" 90° bend and tuck it behind the yellow seal. Gives it a professional look.
I bend a 1/2" because 3/8" pops out while bending, but yes tuck behind the weather stripping
@@timothybryson475 Adjust your brake a little bit. I have no issues with a 3/8" end popping out.
things gonna wrinkle for sure when the sun hits it lol
Also drip flashes help with water penetration
You could probably get away with no fasteners when you tuck behind the weather strip. Half the time you almost can't remove them if you make a mistake because they lock right in.
Brother I had no idea that they had those profile machines. Up until today I consider myself well versed and bending aluminum. You have really opened my eyes. My prices are about to go up
Looking good, I would normally leave a flap on them tops, that way you don't even have to caulk it, still looks good from my house.
I scrolled through the some of the comments to see if anybody already mentioned it and didn’t see anything. Was just going to mention using a sill trim piece. Easily bend them out of scrap ripped pieces and it only a few seconds to bend. Then you can run those up to the weather stripping with a clean edge and nail them on and slip your brick mold trim into it and not need to face nail anything and the hold is super tight. It all makes way more sense once you see it if you’ve never done it like that. Maybe you knew that, maybe you didnt. Just thought I’d share. I like to see how people do things different to see if I can improve anywhere. I’ll definitely be using your j-channel method, not that I was slow but you just proved to be more efficient. Well done 👍🏻
No sill, bend 3/8 inch to tuck in-between wheatherstrip and door jam
I don't "square off" the wrap unless I know the customer doesn't plan on installing a storm door in the future. There's a lot of little things I do differently with my wraps but I have learned a ton from you, man. I wish you had more content that was relevant to window/door installation when I started doing exteriors. However, I did learn the score and snap method from one of your previous videos. I've taken a lot of your siding tricks and made them my own. Keep it up, bro!
Awesome man thanks for letting me know! I'll get back to it soon
It's always great to see a real pro demo something. It really does help us DIY farm guys look better when we have a pole barn or chicken coop to build with metal siding and trim.... Because we got to see it done right.
glad to help
Lots of shortcuts to his methods. Be careful who you try to glean knowledge from
Hey zack I want you to know that you inspired me to go ahead and make my own CZcams channel... and wanted to thank you man! You’re a real inspiration
Gene Hackman’s in house y’all😂
If if you would have been that in 2 different pieces one for the break mode and the other for the jam you would have been able to install a storm door later
Glad I could finally meet you and boycub!! Keep up the hard work! 🤠
Haha boycub didn't know what to think about that lol people calling him boycub outside of work lmao thanks for that. We laughed about it all day
Rookie capping job. No contour bending and using nails, looks cheaply done.
Watched 2 of your video's and I really enjoy them. As a retired commercial electrician of 45 years I certainly appreciate quality work and your communication you have with your guys. At the end squeezing's that guys head and giving him the finger( but not). Funny!
NOW, The big question how many people tell you you look like a small Baker Mayfield?? Quarterback???Browns NFL???
Great videos!!!
RG
turned out very slick man! I hired a guy to do my siding a couple years ago and he has done a such terrible job, I had to pull everything back apart to redo! at that time I was traveling for work and wasn't able to supervise anything, so that's on me. I'm planning on going back and capping all my brick molds on the door first before I put my siding back on!
right on bro thanks
I've got a brake buddy aswell I have the brick mould wheel and the rip wheel for the fascia. It helps us be unique in my area and offer something not alot of other guys do. Yes the rip def helps reduce oil canning. One other thing I do is silicone all my aluminum on and dont use alot of nails
i hear ya on that. as soon as i bought it i was thinking about how i should charge more for custom bends and offer that instead of regular ribbed fascia from the factory.
You should do that in two pieces so if u ever need to hang a storm door.
If you do a 3/8th return on your sheet metal pieces that you bent for the door (the part that you had measured at 2 5/8th), you can stuff that perfectly into the weaterstripping and it will not only seal off the wood it also holds it in place so tightly you may not even need trim nails. Keep up the great work brother, I've been watching this channel on and off for some time now.
What brand of brake . I have a tapco 5/8" minimum bend
Tapco can still lock onto 3/8"
One of the greatest tools invented for this thin aluminum
Keep up the great work boss! Been a while for me watching. Happy Holidays!!
Nice work! Great instructions!
Looks great, I like the brick mould attachment. I also like the caulked door bottom
Cool, thanks
I see he isn't big on criticism lol. I would hire this guy just because he can't take advise
I'm a warehouse guy at beacon! Every time I see tribuilt stuff in your videos I get excited 🤣
Lmao tri built starter always! Sometimes felt if you look wayyy back
@@NWIVeteranConstruction appreciate the love bro! Keep kicking ass, and nail all the haters to the substrate!!
Instead of caulking your upper corners when do your two verticals add half an inch and bend that half inch 90 with hand seamers. And against the weatherstripping install a sil with a hem then you slide your caps into them same as a gable trim.
Use a soffit stapler to fasten through your vinyl J.
You shouldn’t have any exposed fasteners.
Congrats on that brake buddy. Nice tool !
thank you
Your Work is CLEAN
Thank you sir
You’re a beast and everything you do. So when are you coming to work for me unless you need help then I’ll be ready to learn more to help in making my craft better. Thanks for the awesome content. It’s helped me a whole.
always wanted to know how to do everything! i'm starting to put it all together. i love this shit. thank you but i got too much going on to be an employee ever again lol
Nice man. I like that black tool that bent it into a brick mold profile
no need for caulking, attracts dirt and grime, especially on white aluminum. Instead of cutting the entire thing off, cut down on your bend and fold it 90 degrees.
i agree.
Put a reverse with a hem on the door side and rain flaps on your header return. You're supposed to trim the door before the J and use a 1"-1 1/2" reverse under the J to flash the door. That's how us Old School Vinyl Guy's do it. I even tape my reverse to the housewrap before hanging the J. I don't usually brake buddy my wraps because the miters look like crap.
That molding tool is badass 👍🏽 I like to do a 1” bend with a hand brake on the inside top of the risers where you cut them off flush...that way the top inside corners are all aluminum vs having to caulk them. But clean job bro...I like the attention to detail
Right on
Bend 3/8 tuck into door seal and top of the side jambs should be bent at a 90 that you don't have a gap where they meet if you do it this way you won't have exposed nails. Also cut the legs at the angle of the sill. I recommend the tapco gauges no need to keep pulling tape measure out.
I work for renewal by Andersen and we don't use nails, but your job have great quality... Congratulations
I try not everywhere. But on the doors I do. Gonna try the back bend into the seal.
I work for renewal as well work looks good but man you skipped a lot of steps. No bends in the top of jambs..shouldn’t need caulk those seems looks way cleaner. No tabs on the top. Threshold should have a kick plate so it doesn’t flex so much. Cladding should be caulked to threshold so keep water from rotting the wood jamb. Also if u do a 3/8” bend into the weather stripping you don’t need to nail it.
Great video. Only thing I do differently is make a flap at the top instead of cutting out or in the slight angle you did it will close all that in and won’t have to caulk those corners.
Thanks for sharing!
Instead of cutting a big notch out of side pieces on the inside bend out an 1 1/2” + tab onto the header. It gives you a place to nail under a lap without the need for caulking. We used to make a small flange onto the buck reveal and nail the covers to the edge of the buck. Then we’d put a separate pan (tab at the top) to cover buck reveal nails and tucked behind the weatherstripping. This makes the cover backed by wood at the inside corner less vulnerable to inevitable impacts
True
Videos are always on point 👍🏻 i clean our metal with spray nine , can usually get it at home depot cleans the pvc coil nice as well along with the siding, give it a try you wont be disappointed
I will keep that in mind! No paint transfer on the vinyl? I can't find anything to get scuff marks out without destroying it
Foam cleaner works well just lightly spray rag and wipe
Hell yea man. This is the stuff that people need. I like how simple you make it instead of the goobs on here who just want to show off there metal brake attachments. Nothing wrong with sawhorses and cutting on the ground!
haha yes sir thank you
I put the xtra 90 where the flat stock meets the weather strip and tuck it between the weatherstrip and the door frame, not sure if its correct but it gets rid of some unsightly nails and cleans up that edge. Great job man keep up the great work.
Beautiful job
Much appreciated
Looks good 👍
Magic Eraser works wonders on trim coil to get the gray marks out!
You are supposed to fold the top of your side piece so that it goes behind your header piece. It gives you a nice spot for a hidden nail. Also , The Edge meeting the weather seal should have a small return to go into the weather seal crack or that bare metal Edge should have a hem or should be returned into a piece of aluminum undersill caulked and nailed onto the wood. All three options illiminate rippling. The undersill nailed behind the trim peice illuminates the need for all face nails on that surface
Spell check bro. But your a hundred percent on everything you said.
Wow.. never heard of a brake buddy. I'm about to attempt making that same angle by hand. Not my first time using the brake but my first time wrapping windows with multi angled aluminum. It's not hard though once you get the pattern down
Those trim nails located where you put them will ensure that the weather stripping will be very difficult to replace
Your videos are awesome
Thank you sir
10:44 I felt that reaction in my soul 🤣
Nice job
Nice!
Thanks!
Nice work! I prolly would have bent 1 tabs on the sides at the top to tuck under the head trim. It finishes a lot cleaner and protects the wood alot better from water
I like the idea of not caulking the bottom. If any water does get in behind the aluminum, it will be able to get out instead of just rotting the wood.
White coil lacquer thinner works great on a rag to wipe it down after installation. Do not use on any colors other than white! For color coil, use tub-o-towls they work great as well.
I use a composite material for outside casing in new construction. It is durable and does not dent and ding like aluminum.
That's a nice tool to have!
sure is!
@@NWIVeteranConstruction Bro that looks sick compared to the metal work I get around here! They just bend 90's so I didnt know there was a tool for that! I'm sure the metal guys know about it but they just cut corners! You taught me something new yet again! 👍
@@UshouldTryReality awesome man. Honestly I sometimes do the 90s too lmao but this tool is the bomb
You should nab yourself a cutting rack for the top of that break. It consists of I think 5 rollers on a mount with a rotating bracket arm and a table with measurements scribed on the side, your aluminum sits on the far end of the bracket, you roll out exactly how much you need (without having to use your tape) and then simply slide the cutter. Boom, in roughly 1.5 seconds you have the exact length of sheet you need, at an exact 90.
If you do a sill support and bend a 3/8 bend behind the weatherstrip then you can hide your nails and caulk the bottom
best wishs for your business/company
Great video bro. I would love to work for you but im all the way in Chicago 😔
I'll be right off 8094 in portage until the holidays if you wanna come lend a hand n don't have a job
Beast mode.
I love your job you are Sooooooo... amazing,😉💯⭐💯⭐💯⭐💯⭐💯⭐💥💥💥💥💥👏👏👏👏👏👏
thank you
@@NWIVeteranConstruction it's my pleasure!!!
Looks good ,what If i wanted to install storm door in the future. ?
Looks good. Only advice I would give is to put a bend on the vertical legs to cover the gap that you needed to caulk. In my opinion less caulk is always better
yea few people been saying that. i used to do it
I was not prepared for "golden like a shower"
OMG ahahahah at 8:03 when he said Mike.... i had my eyes closed for a few cause i was getting sleepy and i heard him say mike.. and i opened my eyes like wthhh, what is the chances, he says mike while my eyes are closed hahahh, and my name is mike to... tripped me out lol
He said “like” though.
Pretty good look for a wrap. Hate to see molding get wrapped instead of repaired and painted though. (On roof edges)
Nice thanks
If you hem your first bend it helps the brake buddy from slipping
You'll pull apart the j channel every time with a hem on there.
@@arihooley2046 what do you mean ? Explain please? I mean hem the part on door jam side not on outside of brick mold
@@trimmasterld hmmm, maybe you know something I don't lol. My 1st bend is almost always the outside of the brick mold. I always clamped the remaining portion in the brake and ran it across.
@@arihooley2046 see I usually bend starting from the inside like the jam side or on a window I start bending from side touching the indie first...honestly I don’t like the brake buddy look...too flat looking ...
@@arihooley2046 or maybe the roller I have for the brick mold just sucks idk lol...
You did a nice tidy job there. Golden like a shower had me laughing big time! I have a question if you don't mind. Recently I had a new front door installed and they fastened the brick mold to the jam with small nails on the front face and then filled them (albeit badly) with putty. Is this a normal practice? I find some of them very noticeable. Thanks.
Its a bit more cost but.run a bead of clear silicone.top bottom and full lenth .moisture and a bug barriers inner and outer.because water is driven by wind.helps with furniture moving snags too
Looks clean. Able to mount a storm door on that? Is that wise? I have a door that has a storm door mounted to the brick mold, I want to wrap it on tin, then mount the door over it so it looks cleaner.
Yea you can
Been capping doors and windows for 20 yrs never used the brake buddy. We just use the brake to bend everything. Good to see how it works though. Thanks for the How to video!
nooo problem
Just curious, can you cut a strip of composite to slide under the threshold to stop the flex when it’s stepped on.
Not sure. I assume yes. If it helps, it helps
He's very cute too!
Should have been snap-locked into a finish channel against the door. That can also be fabricated on the break or use vinyl. A raw edge there and face nailing is no Bueno
i bend the brick mold and where it touches the inside3/8 jam i put 3/8 back bend on that then bend the inside jam 3/8 by whatever and 3/8 behind the weather sill.six pieces. incase they want a storm door later . i have six storm doors to install this week .i hate storm doors but i think there necessary.
17:27 quad wouldn't crack. Should have caulked the sill.
Nice work though. I also recommend folding the header over the rails. 13:09
Making your piece slightly longer than needed and the brake buddy rolling on either end doesn't matter. 4:10
Again though nice work.
Great point!
Always hated the brake buddy , prefer to bend my own 908 casing and bend the J channel right into it.
Nice job but I usually fold my tops over on the sides Also certain jobs I will Form my J channel into the Window or door capSo the aluminum accepts my SidingI've been in the business since 1984 love your videos though love your enthusiasm I actually for the last few years have been out of the business only doing some jobs on the side
He’s hilarious his video
Avoid nailing by making another bend to fit between frame and jam.
My dad would always tell us to quit whining if we were cold while working. He’d say the heats in the tools son work faster lol. Them boys don’t need new jackets they just gotta work harder 😂
haha naw they needed em. nobody's complained about cold yet besides yesterday. prolly 25 degrees with 20 mile an hour winds. sleeting/raining and nobody was prepared lol
I wrap a door like that so the aluminum follows all the Bends of the door including that half-inch befor the door jam and a 3/8inch tucked into the wheather strip & no sylicone on bottom
I love it
You did good but I would’ve bent the tab tab without caulking it And I would’ve bent around the doors weatherstrip on the inside but you did good bro
Top tab
Whats the tiny thin strip on the ends all of the frame need to buy some ..
Weather stripping?
on the outside of the door around the brickmold thats already attached to the siding of the house @@NWIVeteranConstruction
Welcome to work on the ground construction
You know man, I respect how fucking honest you are. We all fuck up in construction/ life. Nevermind the shit we talk, at the end of the day you're the one doing good work.
U can fold the side pieces at a 90 on the inside before u put the top on and u wont have the gaps or at least not as bad
yea that was how i used to do it. always seemed to be easier and just as clean to caulk. my caulk would've looked nicer if i had a new tube
@@NWIVeteranConstruction just wasn't sure if that was something u ever tried
So when ( not if )it comes time to replace the door weather striping and you nailed right through it . How much are you going to charge to fix that problem. Maybe put
Under sill trim on first or a hem piece and nail back past the weatherstripping and push trim in to that. The panter will thank you. They take them out to paint doors so paint won't stick to striping so doors can be shut. Just talk to them. I'm very surprised no one has not called you out on it. But hay what do I know I'm just one guys opinion.
Good luck putting a storm door on that!
It's nice to hear some banter. Shit is so damn soft these days. We used literally fight. Lol
Just did a video on capping doors and windows! I dont have near the views you do!!
dang lol well i'll try to go check it out for ya real quick
That sill plate should be reinforced with a 2x4 also when your bending metal always Theron side out duh everyone knows that. Also if when you mark the sides you go up an inch and back an inch cut the square out then cut to were you wanted to cut it off fold the one piece forward and the other down and it will make it look and function so much better
Should put a 1/2" bend behind weather strip and caulk the bottom
yea could do that! not a bad idea
i'll try that on my house and make another video
Oh yea you need a drip cap
@@NWIVeteranConstruction I'd do it on the sides for a clean edge but leave the top as you did incase water ever gets behind it somehow.
Yeah i make a 3/8 bend and tuck in between jamb and weather strip.
Now I have to take it of and resend
Storm door will not fit😂😂😂
Hey zack you guys are in atlanta ?
No. nw Indiana
Oh bro im in atl to do a tpo. Becouse i been seen your videos and i like to work with you guys..but im planing to move .
Ill be an honor my brother.
I still like doing it in two pieces, I feel like it doesn’t look as bulky. Clean work tho
what part do you break up to get 2?
@@NWIVeteranConstruction you on Instagram I’ll send a picture
@@steverone7623 nah. Sorry
@@NWIVeteranConstruction I’ll make a quick video and post the link here, it was just the way I was shown how to do it
@@NWIVeteranConstruction czcams.com/video/LIubSyhxo5o/video.html
It looks nice.. Why not bend tight to the brickmould and show the jamb reveal? Only 2 more bends? And it looks more complete. Like your videos!
thanks. seems a lil extra no? its not much more work, but its more room for error and throwing tools...lol worth the look?
@@NWIVeteranConstruction No i dont think its more frustrating, and the other thing is the aluminum hugs the wood better, rather than having the gaps under it where if someone beats up the doorway moving stuff in and out (always seems to) then it would hold up better rather than dent or crush in.On my old Tapco brake a half inch is as small as it wants to bend so its a no brainer, i dont even have to measure it.
I also think the steps help hold the miters together.
please what is the name of this machine? where do I find
Should only painted it lol.. nice work thou
I always see people scoring the metal with a knife, which is fine but dont run your knife all the way on the brake. It was mess up your teeth after a while on the brake. I usually score th metal about 3/4 of my length and then go from the other side. That way my knife tip never hits my brake teeth at all
Howmuch does that brake cost ?
2400. It just got stolen from me
@@NWIVeteranConstruction ohh man sorry to hear that .
@@homemadefood7197 yea pretty bummed. They got more shit too
Wondering where u been....I'm residing my garage....I ended up putting pvc brick mold up....
dang! lol well you can always re do it if you want. and yea man i don't always film and i get busy with life so i might go awol here and there. just know that if the suns shining you can bet your ass i'm involved in some kind of exterior house work lmfao
@@NWIVeteranConstruction I figured you were chasing all that work. Hope Thanksgiving you put your feet up and relaxed....play it smart you dont wanna be doing this shit in your 50s....body breaks down...
@@tttarms1970 believe me thats why i started the business lol i don't wanna be working at age 50...really, hoping to be done by 40 or 45 lol
Come to Michigan… I have a house for you to do…
What part of Michigan
Also maybe fold the top like j channel