Series 6th order.. in short.. take a normal suv with ported box and crack the front windows.. wahhhla you turned your vehicle into a series 6th order and this… is why base deepens and sounds louder when you crack the windows 😅
Awesome video! I'm running a parallel 6th in my volt for 2 twelves. Nasty on the lows, but i do notice it gets weird on those higher frequencies. Very insightful video.
I am putting together a parallel 6th now myself. I should have some videos on it in the near future, I can't wait. Have you metered yours yet? What is it tuned to and what are the sizes of each chamber? I want to know more!
@caraudiolab I have to say that this is my favorite enclosure to date. It's tuned 27 on the low side and 57 on the high side, I believe. I don't know the box volume. I will let you know. I haven't metered yet. Trying to find some shows here in Ga.
@@BigYank33700 That is awesome! I am currently tuned to 27 on the low side, but I may tune higher so as I shrink the port some for wind, it will end up tuned between 25 and 28. Either way, I wish you were closer so I could get a demo! I finally decided on a parallel tuned double bandpass to try something different! Good luck brother!
@@caraudiolab It sure how far you are from me but Newark, Oh. here👍 Getting ready to rebuild my Hybrid bass reflex transmission T-box.. Gonna be a Good year my man & thanks for the knowledge in the vid.😁
@@smigletat9634 I am in the southwest, so other side of the country. lol That box sounds awesome! I would love to know how it turns out! I tested a port wars box that was a bass reflex transmission line design. It was awful, but I have learned a lot since then and feel like it could still work with some of my new ideas. How did you decide on the sealed chamber side size?
I built a series for my buggy with 2 DDX 12’s on a 2k. 3.5 cubes on bottom, 5.5 up top. 30hz on bottom with 7squ in of port per cube. 50 up top with 18squ in of port per cube. Sounded amazing in the 45-65 hz range, but didn’t really get the lows I wanted. Currently designing another 4 cubes on bottom with 10squ in per cube at 30hz and 6 cubes up top with 23squ in per cube at 55. Maybe I’ll get a little more low end out of it
@@brockmarquis8511 The version 2 weighs more than the SKAR VFX, the version 1 is a couple pounds lighter. However, I have had both and the V1 U still outperforms the SKAR VFX even though the magnet is smaller. The U just directs the flux to the gap better.
Yeah the last minute wraps it up. you can just design your 4th order and tune it into your whole car. with a closed window its a bit like 6th order in case you put it in the trunk. with opened windows you can simulate it as a 8th order bandpass. Actually its all just a tline in basics terms. just draw your line with the same/constant port area and see what wavelength you can hit. this will be a fundamental outta your system. ez hitting 20hz that way.
Just be careful you give enough speaker loading. aka enough port area through your line of wave path way (portlength). A horn is basically just a port without additional mass loading. so in case u design your line all through until your opened window, u gotta simulate how much u will hit that tone. if its badly designed you bottom out, bcs there is not enough air reaching the speaker. regardless, space is the factor. just dont overpower the driver and u wont bottom out.... or maybe use less speakercones... I occasionally built a semi t-line for my car, by giving it a line of 1,80m. thou at halfway, the horn/port way gets halved in its area and you gain other of "reflective" line of 0,9m. calculating 0,9+1,80m u get 2,7meters. 344m/s air velocity divided by 2,7meters is about 120hz. which, its 1/4 wavelength is about 30 hz. Funny enough hornresp simulated that 4 me
Plus if u do ports that get too small vs the volume (aka wall to wall distances in all 3 dimensions) u end up getting many many reflections. you get low notes, but u end up gettin a lot of harmonic distortion, bcs of alllll those reflections. shit starts to sound less and less good, the smaller the port / the bigger the volume of your chamber. Just try to design your bandpass modells with the biggest ports possible. Those might sound better, and without a "hollow" sounding base.
Sure, what sub are you looking at running? Also, are you interested in Windy at lows, SPL at lows or a mix? I am releasing a video on designing series 6th order bandpass enclosures next week along with a Google doc that you can reference. It is going to be super helpful for everything you need to know.
@@Husky_Shane_BassHead Those are nice subs, I think you will be happy! I would recommend between 7-9 inches squared per cube on the rear. Start with 9 if you can and then test and shrink a little at a time. You may find the more you shrink, you loose DB but gain wind. Stop when you are happy, but with the excursion of those subs, you probably don't want to go lower than 7 at the most. If you were going for loud, I would almost recommend 9-10. To determine the front, do you know what the bottom and top tuning will be? example: 25/50 hetz, 30/60 hetz, etc.
I'm building a box for 4 Zv6 12s. I am wondering how big I should be on the rear chamber side. I was thinking 7.5 cubes for the rear. I'm running two 8ks to the 12s. I want to maximize the box to get the craziest amount of bass I can from these bad boys. Let me know what you think and if you have any recommendations. Thanks!
That sounds good, depending on the size of your back chamber port. if it is too big, then there could be problems. On your lows, are you going for wind or loud lows?
@@mitchellreade4790 Yes, shrinking the port will make it windier and help some with power handling. However, you will loose db doing it. So, it is a trade off. Most people start kind of big on their rear chamber port and will slowly shrink it until they are happy. You may consider 8-9 sq in of port per cube for loud and somewhere around 6 sq in of port (talking about a slot port) for maximum wind. Going to small just makes your box act kind of like a leaky 4th order, so you definitely want to avoid that.
You build it to regular ported box specs given the same parameters.. the only thing that changes is the port do to tuning differences between the two sides
Ok i have 2 sundown X v2 12s. I drive a 08 crown victoria i want wind. Not looking for dbs. I was leaning on a 6th but im so lost as to size and ratio. After viewing this 1:1 looks like the winner. I just need to figure out the rear port and the front opening port to the front seats. B pillar wall. Well i want my seats to lean back so like just rear of the b pillar
Let me put it like this, let's say you go with 5 cubic feet for the rear chamber and 9 cubic feet for the front chamber, you will be just as loud on the lows as going with 5 cubic feet for both. You just lose out on the highs. The reason the 1:1 is so popular, is it allows people to use the extra room they normally would for the top/front chamber to add extra subs, which is why is gets so windy and loud on lows. If you already have the subs, my best advice is to figure out how much room you will need for your rear and use the rest (up to around a 1:75 at the most - depending on power) for for the high chamber. If you aren't going crazy power, around 5-5.5 cubes is great for those x 12's on the rear chamber. Are you going slotted port or areo?
@@drewanderson8279 If you are just looking for windy, go with 7 square inches per cube on the bottom port and be prepared to possibly shrink it down to 6 with testing. If you want to go loud on lows, then start with 8 per cube and then possibly shrink it with testing. Start with about 25 square inches per cube on your top/high chamber and then shrink from there while testing.
Series 6th order.. in short.. take a normal suv with ported box and crack the front windows.. wahhhla you turned your vehicle into a series 6th order and this… is why base deepens and sounds louder when you crack the windows 😅
Agreed.
Thank u.
Just getting started on building mine
Good luck! Are you walling it?
Awesome video! I'm running a parallel 6th in my volt for 2 twelves. Nasty on the lows, but i do notice it gets weird on those higher frequencies. Very insightful video.
I am putting together a parallel 6th now myself. I should have some videos on it in the near future, I can't wait. Have you metered yours yet? What is it tuned to and what are the sizes of each chamber? I want to know more!
@caraudiolab I have to say that this is my favorite enclosure to date. It's tuned 27 on the low side and 57 on the high side, I believe. I don't know the box volume. I will let you know. I haven't metered yet. Trying to find some shows here in Ga.
@@BigYank33700 That is awesome! I am currently tuned to 27 on the low side, but I may tune higher so as I shrink the port some for wind, it will end up tuned between 25 and 28. Either way, I wish you were closer so I could get a demo! I finally decided on a parallel tuned double bandpass to try something different! Good luck brother!
@@caraudiolab
It sure how far you are from me but Newark, Oh. here👍 Getting ready to rebuild my Hybrid bass reflex transmission T-box.. Gonna be a Good year my man & thanks for the knowledge in the vid.😁
@@smigletat9634 I am in the southwest, so other side of the country. lol That box sounds awesome! I would love to know how it turns out! I tested a port wars box that was a bass reflex transmission line design. It was awful, but I have learned a lot since then and feel like it could still work with some of my new ideas. How did you decide on the sealed chamber side size?
I built a series for my buggy with 2 DDX 12’s on a 2k. 3.5 cubes on bottom, 5.5 up top. 30hz on bottom with 7squ in of port per cube. 50 up top with 18squ in of port per cube. Sounded amazing in the 45-65 hz range, but didn’t really get the lows I wanted. Currently designing another 4 cubes on bottom with 10squ in per cube at 30hz and 6 cubes up top with 23squ in per cube at 55. Maybe I’ll get a little more low end out of it
Somehow I missed your comment, let me know how you like it! I would lower the tune a little bit for lows. Maybe go with 27 hertz for better lower end.
Subbed, deserve it definitely
Awesome! Thank you!
thanks, very helpful information ill be trying one of these in my 4 door wrangler soon with 2 nightshade 18's
That's awesome, I wish I could get a demo!
Great stuff man thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
@@caraudiolab hey man do you know the magnet weight on the uv1 and uv2 subs? 15 inch
@@brockmarquis8511 Not sure, I would estimate around 350 ounce for the motor weight.
@@caraudiolab so you would say its bigger than a skar vxf 15 which is 300?
@@brockmarquis8511 The version 2 weighs more than the SKAR VFX, the version 1 is a couple pounds lighter. However, I have had both and the V1 U still outperforms the SKAR VFX even though the magnet is smaller. The U just directs the flux to the gap better.
Yeah the last minute wraps it up. you can just design your 4th order and tune it into your whole car. with a closed window its a bit like 6th order in case you put it in the trunk. with opened windows you can simulate it as a 8th order bandpass.
Actually its all just a tline in basics terms. just draw your line with the same/constant port area and see what wavelength you can hit. this will be a fundamental outta your system. ez hitting 20hz that way.
Just be careful you give enough speaker loading. aka enough port area through your line of wave path way (portlength). A horn is basically just a port without additional mass loading.
so in case u design your line all through until your opened window, u gotta simulate how much u will hit that tone. if its badly designed you bottom out, bcs there is not enough air reaching the speaker. regardless, space is the factor. just dont overpower the driver and u wont bottom out.... or maybe use less speakercones...
I occasionally built a semi t-line for my car, by giving it a line of 1,80m. thou at halfway, the horn/port way gets halved in its area and you gain other of "reflective" line of 0,9m. calculating 0,9+1,80m u get 2,7meters. 344m/s air velocity divided by 2,7meters is about 120hz. which, its 1/4 wavelength is about 30 hz. Funny enough hornresp simulated that 4 me
Plus if u do ports that get too small vs the volume (aka wall to wall distances in all 3 dimensions) u end up getting many many reflections. you get low notes, but u end up gettin a lot of harmonic distortion, bcs of alllll those reflections. shit starts to sound less and less good, the smaller the port / the bigger the volume of your chamber.
Just try to design your bandpass modells with the biggest ports possible. Those might sound better, and without a "hollow" sounding base.
When are you going to do a video on negative ratios?
in the days of my youth we called this 7th order LOL
awesome video. Any recommendations on port area for rear port and front port?
Sure, what sub are you looking at running? Also, are you interested in Windy at lows, SPL at lows or a mix? I am releasing a video on designing series 6th order bandpass enclosures next week along with a Google doc that you can reference. It is going to be super helpful for everything you need to know.
@@caraudiolab 3 12” Savard HOE on 8k. Windy at lows, demo monster.
@@Husky_Shane_BassHead Those are nice subs, I think you will be happy! I would recommend between 7-9 inches squared per cube on the rear. Start with 9 if you can and then test and shrink a little at a time. You may find the more you shrink, you loose DB but gain wind. Stop when you are happy, but with the excursion of those subs, you probably don't want to go lower than 7 at the most. If you were going for loud, I would almost recommend 9-10. To determine the front, do you know what the bottom and top tuning will be? example: 25/50 hetz, 30/60 hetz, etc.
@@Husky_Shane_BassHead By the way, those were slot port recommendations. If you go aero, you can trim up to 30% off.
@@caraudiolab I want to tune low. 22/44… 25/50 at the most
I'm building a box for 4 Zv6 12s. I am wondering how big I should be on the rear chamber side. I was thinking 7.5 cubes for the rear. I'm running two 8ks to the 12s. I want to maximize the box to get the craziest amount of bass I can from these bad boys. Let me know what you think and if you have any recommendations. Thanks!
That sounds good, depending on the size of your back chamber port. if it is too big, then there could be problems. On your lows, are you going for wind or loud lows?
I want a good mix of both. What would you recommend for port area? Would shrinking it make it windier or vice versa?
@@mitchellreade4790 Yes, shrinking the port will make it windier and help some with power handling. However, you will loose db doing it. So, it is a trade off. Most people start kind of big on their rear chamber port and will slowly shrink it until they are happy. You may consider 8-9 sq in of port per cube for loud and somewhere around 6 sq in of port (talking about a slot port) for maximum wind. Going to small just makes your box act kind of like a leaky 4th order, so you definitely want to avoid that.
Okay, that helps a lot. Thank you!
You build it to regular ported box specs given the same parameters.. the only thing that changes is the port do to tuning differences between the two sides
i was wondering if u had time to give me your opinion on the 6th order design i have
Sure, what do you have?
oh ya 2 fi neo 15s 4.7 d1 on a sundown salt 8
@@shaunbialek7252 What vehicle is it going in? Have you decided on chamber sizes yet? Is your goal loud, low, windy, bandwidth, etc?
@@caraudiolab it’s going in a Nissan Titan ext cab and I’m going for lows and wind. Well I’d like to play 20-40hz range.
I bought a design and the chambers are 5.75 net on rear and 11 net in front tuned to 25/50
Ok i have 2 sundown X v2 12s. I drive a 08 crown victoria i want wind. Not looking for dbs. I was leaning on a 6th but im so lost as to size and ratio. After viewing this 1:1 looks like the winner. I just need to figure out the rear port and the front opening port to the front seats. B pillar wall. Well i want my seats to lean back so like just rear of the b pillar
Let me put it like this, let's say you go with 5 cubic feet for the rear chamber and 9 cubic feet for the front chamber, you will be just as loud on the lows as going with 5 cubic feet for both. You just lose out on the highs. The reason the 1:1 is so popular, is it allows people to use the extra room they normally would for the top/front chamber to add extra subs, which is why is gets so windy and loud on lows. If you already have the subs, my best advice is to figure out how much room you will need for your rear and use the rest (up to around a 1:75 at the most - depending on power) for for the high chamber. If you aren't going crazy power, around 5-5.5 cubes is great for those x 12's on the rear chamber. Are you going slotted port or areo?
@@caraudiolab slot port. Thank you for the reply!
@@drewanderson8279 If you are just looking for windy, go with 7 square inches per cube on the bottom port and be prepared to possibly shrink it down to 6 with testing. If you want to go loud on lows, then start with 8 per cube and then possibly shrink it with testing. Start with about 25 square inches per cube on your top/high chamber and then shrink from there while testing.
@@caraudiolab thank you so so much!!
@@drewanderson8279 Glad I could help!
Whats your price to design a 6th order?
What are your goals? How low did you want to play? Do you windy or loud on your lows? Or a mix? Which subs?
@@caraudiolab sq build. 25-65 two db4515r d2 I'd take windy over loud