Good video! Ruger web site has terrible camera angles and doesn't show the cylinder disassembly. I was stressing but somehow figured it out on my own. This video would have saved me some stress!
The ball bearings are also what lock the cylinder to the yoke. When you remove the ejector rod, it allows the bearings to drop in and and “unlock” the cylinder from the yoke.
Thank you so much. After an ultrasonic clean mine started to seize and since doing this and seeing how dirty was in there its going good. I clean at the stage of stripping to frame and cylinder removed but this has now added what I needed extra.
A very useful video, thank you Dusty. The only thing that tripped me up was using an allen key to push the plunger on top of the crane. The one I used fit in the hole, but nothing moved when I pushed down. I ended up finding a smaller tool, and then the plunger would go down. Anyway, my formerly-very-sticky cylinder now spins nicely again!
Thank you Dustysa4. My GP100 cylinder/crane assembly still spins pretty well, but not freely the way it used to. A little disassembly and cleaning ought to do it. Thanks for showing how.
And now the cyllinder of my GP100 spins very smothly thanks to this video. I bought it used and I suspect that this haven`t been done since it was new in 2007. There was A LOT of dirt to remove.........
Awesome, I really needed this for my brand new Wiley Clapp GP100. I do need to contact Ruger about some metal actually folded over from the side of the crane that sits flush against the frame over onto the front edge.
Thx for the great instruction vid. Thx for your time and knowledge on this subject. I used it to disasseble my gp100 and found the factory gunk in the moving parts. Thx again and i hope others benefit from this as i did.
Mainly, just because I do not have the tool for it, and I didn't want to buy it, or spend the time modifying a screwdriver. Also, except for extreme cases, I don't think that step is necessary and shouldn't be performed often, if at all. But, if you need to, the first return of this Google search will get you squared away: RUGER® DOUBLE ACTION SCREWDRIVER SET
Thank you for making this video. Question: is it absolutely necessary to remove the crane from the frame first before removing thy cylinder from the crane? It looks like the pins can be accessed without removing the crane first.
Have you experienced any end shake issues with your GP100? I’ve an old GP100 from the 80’s that I’ve shot thousands of rounds thru it. I understand some end shake (forward and aft movement of the cylinder) is normal, but too much or too little is not. Thanks
+yekcoh Kim It would probably be best to contact Ruger if you're experiencing problems and you suspect excessive cylinder endshake to be the culprit. Unfortunately, I do not know the allowable tolerances for the GP100 revolver. I did stumble across this article many moons ago: gunner777.wordpress.com/2008/08/24/ruger-gp100sp101book-of-knowledge/ The author "seems" to be very educated on Ruger revolvers, but again, I'd encourage you to contact Ruger before using information from the internet to make changes to your gun. Sorry I can't be of more help.
I can’t get the ejector rod to go all the way in and work right because it has to overcome some bearings inside of the spindle. It won’t go through the ball bearings and it’s not working, right
The captured bearings in the crane and pivot assembly should jiggle freely. If they are not, hit them with some solvent and brake cleaner until they are able to. When you slide the crane spindle in to the cylinder, the bearings should freely move inward to allow clearance. Then when you insert the ejector rod, the bearings should be forced outward, capturing the crane spindle inside of the cylinder.
I don't see any part that could keep the cylinder in place while assembled, that would mean in theory the cylinder can be pulled out without any disassembly...
my cylinder still won't pull loose from the crane - tried everything but i really think the ball bearings, or at least one of them, was pressed in tight and it won't give to release it's hold on the cylinder - not that important for now, but at some point i'll need to figure a way to remove it safely - any ideas, really don't want to involve Ruger, they seem to get anal when it comes to people disassembling their firearms, even if it is for cleaning purposes
The bearings that hold the cylinder on to the crane pivot assembly are held in the outward position by the ejector rod. Once the ejector rod has been removed, it should only take a slight tap for them to jiggle freely, allowing the cylinder to slide past them. Holding the assembly in one hand, I would give it a slight whack with a rubber mallet. If that doesn't do the trick, you might let your favorite solvent work on it for a few minutes, then try the slight whack again. If it's excessive carbon build up that's holding the bearings in the outward position, something like Breakfree Powder Blast might be good for forcing it's way in to the crevices and working out any fouling. Good luck!
fortyfive acp It should fit together like this: czcams.com/video/rw5kzPAuk3w/video.html I'd bet Ruger will fix it for you if you don't want to fabricate a tool.
do you know if there have been any assembly changes in the GP100 over the last 2 years - i have TWO GP100's and i can't for the life of me separate the crane from the cylinder - all the CZcams videos i've watched have you guys just pulling on it and the crane pops right out - not mine, i pull, twist and rotate the cylinder, NOTHING gives - i've removed all the necessary parts, nothing should be stopping it, my only thought can be a design change or something like that - even have the bit to remove the screw on the inside of the cylinder, just can't get the cylinder to separate from the crane, im stumped - any ideas, maybe a plan B? Any suggestions would be helpful
If there have been any changes, I'm not aware of them. But as I pointed out in my video, the cylinder spins on two ball bearings. When in place, the ejector rod forces the bearings out, which holds the cylinder on the crane. Once I remove the ejector rod, at about 2:40 in my video, you'll notice the cylinder sort of sticks. Those bearings have to jiggle back enough for the cylinder to come off. Usually just removing the ejector rod will do this. I'm wondering if your ball bearings are wedged in the outward position, from carbon crud or something. Maybe try flushing some solvent in there, followed by a few light taps with a rubber mallet. Hopefully that's enough to get those bearings to move enough for the cylinder to slide off...
im thinking the same thing about the bearings being stuck - i'll try to work with it but both guns have never been fired yet and i bought them both NIB - what were the odds of both of mine doing this - sigh
If the gun has been shot a lot, there is a hard ring of burned powder holding the cylinder on. The first time I removed mine, I twisted the cylinder while pulling on it. You might try soaking the cylinder and crane in solvent
The SP101 is much simpler as well. Only the GP100 is a little tedious. But it's really not part of regular maintenance. I'd only perform this on an "as needed" basis.
+Dustysa4 right yeah I like the gp100s and never took mine down but always wanted too but couldn't figure it out lol now my security six it can be taken down in a few seconds. Ejector rod just unscrews.
Good video! Ruger web site has terrible camera angles and doesn't show the cylinder disassembly. I was stressing but somehow figured it out on my own. This video would have saved me some stress!
The ball bearings are also what lock the cylinder to the yoke. When you remove the ejector rod, it allows the bearings to drop in and and “unlock” the cylinder from the yoke.
Thank you so much. After an ultrasonic clean mine started to seize and since doing this and seeing how dirty was in there its going good. I clean at the stage of stripping to frame and cylinder removed but this has now added what I needed extra.
This helped me very much! my GP100's cylinder is spinning better then when i bought it. (used).
Thank You!
Took like 2 hours to get that little pin back in but now it's working perfectly, previously the hammer pull was getting a little stiff. Thanks!
A very useful video, thank you Dusty. The only thing that tripped me up was using an allen key to push the plunger on top of the crane. The one I used fit in the hole, but nothing moved when I pushed down. I ended up finding a smaller tool, and then the plunger would go down. Anyway, my formerly-very-sticky cylinder now spins nicely again!
Dustysa4 Your video helped me put my cylinder back spring/ spindle/ pin back together thanks!!!!
Thank you Dustysa4. My GP100 cylinder/crane assembly still spins pretty well, but not freely the way it used to. A little disassembly and cleaning ought to do it. Thanks for showing how.
And now the cyllinder of my GP100 spins very smothly thanks to this video. I bought it used and I suspect that this haven`t been done since it was new in 2007. There was A LOT of dirt to remove.........
Awesome, I really needed this for my brand new Wiley Clapp GP100. I do need to contact Ruger about some metal actually folded over from the side of the crane that sits flush against the frame over onto the front edge.
Thx for the great instruction vid. Thx for your time and knowledge on this subject. I used it to disasseble my gp100 and found the factory gunk in the moving parts. Thx again and i hope others benefit from this as i did.
+Mitchell Cox Glad I could help! Hopefully I'll be getting some more useful videos up soon.
thanks for the video finally got around to breaking down my cylinder it was really helpful
Glad I was able to help!
Perfect video just what I needed to clean my GP100 crane arm.
Excellent vid. Thank you
Straight to the point. Fantastic!
Why did not you show the removal of the cylinder?
Mainly, just because I do not have the tool for it, and I didn't want to buy it, or spend the time modifying a screwdriver. Also, except for extreme cases, I don't think that step is necessary and shouldn't be performed often, if at all. But, if you need to, the first return of this Google search will get you squared away: RUGER® DOUBLE ACTION SCREWDRIVER SET
Excellent video tutorial, very informative
Thanks for the video
Explains it very nicely
Nice and to the point my good sir. You get a big thumbs up 👍
Nice video! Very clear and well put together.
Good video thanks
This guy is great.. Really helped thanks!
Excellent video thank you.
What a great video. thank you for the help.
Thanks, very informative.
Thank you for making this video. Question: is it absolutely necessary to remove the crane from the frame first before removing thy cylinder from the crane? It looks like the pins can be accessed without removing the crane first.
Have you experienced any end shake issues with your GP100? I’ve an old GP100 from the 80’s that I’ve shot thousands of rounds thru it. I understand some end shake (forward and aft movement of the cylinder) is normal, but too much or too little is not. Thanks
awesome! thank you so much for this video!
+Thomas Myers No problem! Thanks for watching!
There is a small pin inside the grips for cyli der removal.....at least there is in mine
I took apart the yoke on my gun and noticed it only had one ball bearing. Is this normal?
what is the tolerable endshake of the cylinder? My seems to move too much
+yekcoh Kim It would probably be best to contact Ruger if you're experiencing problems and you suspect excessive cylinder endshake to be the culprit. Unfortunately, I do not know the allowable tolerances for the GP100 revolver. I did stumble across this article many moons ago: gunner777.wordpress.com/2008/08/24/ruger-gp100sp101book-of-knowledge/ The author "seems" to be very educated on Ruger revolvers, but again, I'd encourage you to contact Ruger before using information from the internet to make changes to your gun. Sorry I can't be of more help.
Excellent!
I can’t get the ejector rod to go all the way in and work right because it has to overcome some bearings inside of the spindle. It won’t go through the ball bearings and it’s not working, right
The captured bearings in the crane and pivot assembly should jiggle freely. If they are not, hit them with some solvent and brake cleaner until they are able to. When you slide the crane spindle in to the cylinder, the bearings should freely move inward to allow clearance. Then when you insert the ejector rod, the bearings should be forced outward, capturing the crane spindle inside of the cylinder.
THANK YOU!!
I don't see any part that could keep the cylinder in place while assembled, that would mean in theory the cylinder can be pulled out without any disassembly...
you did not show how to removed revolver, is that your secret?
my cylinder still won't pull loose from the crane - tried everything but i really think the ball bearings, or at least one of them, was pressed in tight and it won't give to release it's hold on the cylinder - not that important for now, but at some point i'll need to figure a way to remove it safely - any ideas, really don't want to involve Ruger, they seem to get anal when it comes to people disassembling their firearms, even if it is for cleaning purposes
The bearings that hold the cylinder on to the crane pivot assembly are held in the outward position by the ejector rod. Once the ejector rod has been removed, it should only take a slight tap for them to jiggle freely, allowing the cylinder to slide past them. Holding the assembly in one hand, I would give it a slight whack with a rubber mallet. If that doesn't do the trick, you might let your favorite solvent work on it for a few minutes, then try the slight whack again. If it's excessive carbon build up that's holding the bearings in the outward position, something like Breakfree Powder Blast might be good for forcing it's way in to the crevices and working out any fouling. Good luck!
What do you recommend if my extractor came completely off. I can't find any videos on how to fix it. Thanks
fortyfive acp It should fit together like this: czcams.com/video/rw5kzPAuk3w/video.html
I'd bet Ruger will fix it for you if you don't want to fabricate a tool.
Oh never mind the ejector rod keeps the ball bearings outwards in the groove. :)
do you know if there have been any assembly changes in the GP100 over the last 2 years - i have TWO GP100's and i can't for the life of me separate the crane from the cylinder - all the CZcams videos i've watched have you guys just pulling on it and the crane pops right out - not mine, i pull, twist and rotate the cylinder, NOTHING gives - i've removed all the necessary parts, nothing should be stopping it, my only thought can be a design change or something like that - even have the bit to remove the screw on the inside of the cylinder, just can't get the cylinder to separate from the crane, im stumped - any ideas, maybe a plan B? Any suggestions would be helpful
If there have been any changes, I'm not aware of them. But as I pointed out in my video, the cylinder spins on two ball bearings. When in place, the ejector rod forces the bearings out, which holds the cylinder on the crane. Once I remove the ejector rod, at about 2:40 in my video, you'll notice the cylinder sort of sticks. Those bearings have to jiggle back enough for the cylinder to come off. Usually just removing the ejector rod will do this. I'm wondering if your ball bearings are wedged in the outward position, from carbon crud or something. Maybe try flushing some solvent in there, followed by a few light taps with a rubber mallet. Hopefully that's enough to get those bearings to move enough for the cylinder to slide off...
im thinking the same thing about the bearings being stuck - i'll try to work with it but both guns have never been fired yet and i bought them both NIB - what were the odds of both of mine doing this - sigh
If the gun has been shot a lot, there is a hard ring of burned powder holding the cylinder on. The first time I removed mine, I twisted the cylinder while pulling on it. You might try soaking the cylinder and crane in solvent
I cannot get the small pin out for the life of me. I can feel the plunger depress then it won’t budge. Any suggestions?
I didn't mean to sound negative if I did. My apologies.
No worries, you speak the truth. It's an over complicated design. Thanks for watching!
I'll stick with my security six it's a lot simpler lol
The SP101 is much simpler as well. Only the GP100 is a little tedious. But it's really not part of regular maintenance. I'd only perform this on an "as needed" basis.
+Dustysa4 right yeah I like the gp100s and never took mine down but always wanted too but couldn't figure it out lol now my security six it can be taken down in a few seconds. Ejector rod just unscrews.
What a pain in the ass.......
Just get a S&W and be done with it....lol😆
Yeah, the 686 cylinder is cake to disassemble.