@@adobomoto I wasn't talking about the company, I was talking about your typical high flowing race filter. K&n, WIX racing, etc. Achieve higher flow by having a coarser media that either has a worse micron rating or a lower efficiency rating.
The main reason some people run into issues with those K&N filters with the bolt is because they don't read the warning... the bolt is for removal, not tightening the filter. If you tighten it with the bolt it can supposedly cause some structural integrity issues under pressure around the head and leak. I only ever tighten the filter good and hand tight, then remove with the bolt - never had any issues.
You right you dont need to tighten a canister filter on any engine with any more than your hand, if you oil the seal it will basically become suction stuck to that surface, that's why you loosen with a tool :).
@@maxmtz8589The problem is that people use the nut on the end of the filter to tighten it on. That's not what it's for. They end up way overtightening the filter and can't get it off, or cause damage to it and make it leak. The nuts is ONLY for removal, because removing an oil filter is always 5x harder than putting one on. Oil filters should be put on hand tight only. Even still, expansion from heat makes them often times hard to remove. Hence the nut too make it easier on K&N's. The filter is fantastic. The idiots that crank them on as tight as they can with a ratchet, are not fantastic.
It's only controversial because people use that "nut" to tighten the filter. When your never supposed to do that. Its only supposed to be used for removal
Yeah I’ve never had an issue with k&n filters and I’ve used them for 45k-ish miles now. I’ve always just hand tightened, too. Didn’t even realize there was a controversy.
The reason most people piss and moan is the use the nut on the end to do it upband it cracks and leaks. I've had plenty and never had and issue (I use HiFlo too, cheaper but good quality). Like you said hand tight is fine.
the reason i piss and moan about then is i have an oil filter cutter to keep an eye out for engine problems, and the quality of k&n filterd is very, very dissapointing. almost fram quality
Nice video man, You for sure need to post more about the different motorcycle brands especially with parts/ after market mods/accessories. I’ve been searching up oil filters for my bike lately and thought kn might be a good choice, so hearing others experience about different parts they get for their bike is super valuable. Thanks again dude 🤙🏽
I'd use k&n and not feel bad... I'd use stp gold, I'd use napa gold I will not use anything Fram. Synthetic elements for synthetic oils. I have never had a problem. Change your oil on motorcycle every 3-4k and cars at 3-5k enjoy 😉
The only K&N filters that had issues were the K&N H204 and H204C March 1, 2016 - September 30, 2016. Most every other issue goes back to incorrect installation like insufficient or too much torque.
I use Castrol grand Prix 10W 40 4 Stroke motorcycle oil and Suzuki oil filter on my 2015 V Strom 1000 abs which I bought in 2016. Back then the oil cost $ 5.50 L . Today at Canadian Tire it's advertised at $13.99L. Madness
I've experimented with different filters, including multiple K&N oil filters. There are at least a couple different variations of the K&N filters, and I have seen "fakes" before as well. I say "fakes" because some filters have completely different internal designs, even when the outside and model number show to be the same. Currently, I stick with OEM, however, even I have found OEMs to have 3 or even more designs, manufactured by other third-party manufacturers. I've spent hours of research on these oil filters, so far, so good with my choices.
Yeah, all manufacturers use third parties for oem filters. A lot use fram. Honda has two own filters for my civic si, and one of them is proven better than the other. If they changed manufacturers, or updated the existing filter they use as own, they change the part number, but it’s common to go to two different dealerships, and get two different filters made by two different third parties.
@@thagingerninjer5391i was going out of my way to get OEM filters for my WRX until i learned that they’re made by Puralator, that made things much easier and a bit cheaper
Always look into any filter to check for debris from the manufacturing process before installing. Every brand sometimes has metal shavings loose inside.
Me neither. I go to buy a filter and whichever one is available (HF or K&N) is the one i get. I think a lot of the problems people have with K&N is leaking because they install them using a wrench when that’s only for removing them
@@metalmavenmike80 that’s a good point. These two brands do come with a wet gasket, but it should still be lubed up. I think the grease it comes with is to prevent the o ring from drying out while its on the shelves, not meant to be installed without rubbing a bit of oil on it
I'm so happy you didn't torque the filter on so many ppl think they have to be on so tight but it's doesn't hand tight will do, on cars to everyone if you do a oil change yourself only do hand tight don't make our job harder if you gotta bring it to the shop
I had the o ring fail on a k&n oil filter. (Yes it was tightened by hand) Unbeknownst to me it coated the right side of my CBR 1000 and right side of the rear tire with oil. Lucky for me I only had left turns on my way home and didn't slide out. Last K&N oil filter I'll ever buy
Got onna them hi flows from Barney's. Worked well. I usually get the KN160 love that I can slap that 17mm wrench & not have to bare hand it when it's hot af.
Drain bolt has a torque spec. Its 31ftlbs on the fz/mt07. I would also advise using the oem style crush washer. It will actually collapse and crush when torquing properly.
Many FZ/MT oil pans have been stripped because of that 31 ft lbs number. There are several torque specs in the manual that are way too high. The rear axle calls for 108 which again has caused a lot of destroyed axle blocks, mine being one of them. I stick with 25 for the drain bolt and 80 for the axle nut, no issues
@@RapidRedRider most likely due to an inaccurate torque wrench. Cheap torque wrenches are often way off. Even expensive ones are supposed to be recalibrated every so often. I have done many oil changes on cp2 motors and never once had an issue with the factory torque spec.
It was tested some time ago by some people on youtube but k&n has the most free flowing filter element. I can’t remember what the trade off is exactly but mobil1 had the least resistance and best flowing with the best particulate filtering capacity. The best for a daily driver driven hard, it’s what I use on my boosted miata as well as their “race spec” 15w50 because it has been ran dry by the previous owner.
I used to use Shell Rotella in my ZX-14, has the same ingredients for the wet clutch as regular motorcycle oil and is a lot cheaper. Actually got more life out of my clutch while drag racing with the Rotella than I did any other oil. Food for thought
from working with bike mechanics and car mechanics they never warm up the bike that cycles the old oil and you have old oil in the vehicle you need all the oil at the bottom of the engine but every one does it deferent
I use the same and never been a issue, people think the nut on the top is for tightening the filter and they crack the filter if you just hand tighten it you’re good
I prefer to use motul oil no matter what brand of bike. Just personal preference though. I used to have a K&N oil filter on my bike, what’s all the commotion about?
@@Michael-lu2tzi don't think Shell is bad either, researched both before I went with Motul, mainly because of the Motul stickers I placed on my bike.. 😅
@@Michael-lu2tzrotella isn’t bad. I run Honda oil in my cbr1000rr, and a Honda filter, but the whole package at my dealership is only $35, or I would look for different options.
A lot of people have complained that the filter collapsed on them, starving the engine of oil, and blowing it up. It happens to all oil filters, if you don’t change them frequently enough. Cheap Fram paper filters are really bad about it.
There’s nothing with them. They just have a bad reputation because some people used the nut on the end to tighten the oil filter on which weakens the structure somehow and can cause leaks and/or other problems. The nut is simply there to make it easier removing the filter when changing oil, but always make sure to hand tighten them on like any other filter and your good.
@@tavecooper7793 ok THAT makes perfect sense..typical user error leads to false representation of product reliability. Had nothing to do with it's micron filtering capabilities. I'll rest easy tonight! 😁👍
2 out of 3 leaked and dumped oil all over my rear tire and brake and I never used the nut to install I think it’s a vibration issue on my parallel twin now I only use factory filters
I've bought the k&n-303 filter about 8 times over the past 3 and a half years across two of my bikes and they've been good so far, hope they're good in the future
I would be interested to hear what people are saying about the k&n oil filters, personally I would swear by them,, had air filters and oil filters from them for years and never had any issues and it's allways helped with performance to,, use them with a good exhaust can and maybe a dynojet kit or a remap or new chip and get really good results.
I been using k n filters on gsxr’s and cbr’s for years generally with mobil 1 oil, never had a issue, never even heard of a issue…. I’m really curious what is the issue ?
Try removing the drain plug, then removing the filler cap. With the filler cap in place the vacuum keeps the oil splash to a minimum when you remove the plug.
There shouldn't be a vacuum at all, thats what the carter ventilation is for :) usually a rubber hose between your valvehead and the clean side of your airbox.
I admire your patience. I just pour some water in while it’s running to clean the engine and then I fill the engine back up with vegetable oil once I think it’s clean enough
Oh boy… somebody is gonna take this advice and run with it. Please don’t forget to fill it half way with vegetable oil, and the rest with water (just up until it over flows) since vegetable oil is a bit more thick than car oil.
I posted a meme on fb about popping your hood before you go on a long trip during the summer, so your engine stays cooler once, and legit had a kid’s hood fly off of his car because he did it. 😂😅
I always do my oil changes straight after a ride in the twisties so the oil gets super hot and is able to desolve all the gunk out of the engine. Just letting the engine run for a few minutes isn’t doing it
Clean the surface on the filter housing, oil the seal and hand tighten (With canister filters), no need to use any tools, it will damage the filter surround and also the ring. That shit is stuck on there when hand tightened, tools are for removing not fitting (unless specified to use a tool for fitting).
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you can use yama-lube, gixxer owners...it's a different KIND of lube
Fun fact: high flow filters achieve the higher flow by being worse at filtering.
fun fact, it's called hi-flo as in the company, not the filter being "high flow"..E for effort, but dead asss wrong @@Prestiged_peck
@@adobomoto I wasn't talking about the company, I was talking about your typical high flowing race filter.
K&n, WIX racing, etc. Achieve higher flow by having a coarser media that either has a worse micron rating or a lower efficiency rating.
@@Prestiged_peckyeah you’re not wrong idk what he on about 😅
The main reason some people run into issues with those K&N filters with the bolt is because they don't read the warning... the bolt is for removal, not tightening the filter. If you tighten it with the bolt it can supposedly cause some structural integrity issues under pressure around the head and leak.
I only ever tighten the filter good and hand tight, then remove with the bolt - never had any issues.
Mine leaked without using it to torque down. Also if it's that close to failing at all times.. I'll stay away thanks
Just ise the ones without the nut they work just ass good
Yes man. I use them for racing because of safety wire purposes.
You right you dont need to tighten a canister filter on any engine with any more than your hand, if you oil the seal it will basically become suction stuck to that surface, that's why you loosen with a tool :).
The main issue is the element material. It collapses and tears apart. KN is just junk filters, ever oil filter failure ive heard about was always KN.
Never had a problem with K&N filters. I think it's partially because I'm not a fckn idiot...
Right? I've used the K&N filter for a long time. My bike has 75,000 miles on it, never had an issue.
How are you supposed to use it and why do people think it’s bad?
@@maxmtz8589 The nut is only for opening the filter, not for tightening
@@maxmtz8589the nut is for removal
NEVER TIGHTEN A FILTER MORE THAN HAND TIGHTNESS
@@maxmtz8589The problem is that people use the nut on the end of the filter to tighten it on. That's not what it's for. They end up way overtightening the filter and can't get it off, or cause damage to it and make it leak. The nuts is ONLY for removal, because removing an oil filter is always 5x harder than putting one on. Oil filters should be put on hand tight only. Even still, expansion from heat makes them often times hard to remove. Hence the nut too make it easier on K&N's.
The filter is fantastic. The idiots that crank them on as tight as they can with a ratchet, are not fantastic.
It's only controversial because people use that "nut" to tighten the filter. When your never supposed to do that. Its only supposed to be used for removal
Yeah I’ve never had an issue with k&n filters and I’ve used them for 45k-ish miles now. I’ve always just hand tightened, too. Didn’t even realize there was a controversy.
Bingo!!
This guy cleans the inside of his exhaust pipe
He probably cleans your exhaust pipe too
🤨📸
I do too sometimes it keeps the stainless a nice bronze color behind the carbon fiber heat shield and looks so damn good
And u don't??
I heard he lubes it too 😂
The reason most people piss and moan is the use the nut on the end to do it upband it cracks and leaks. I've had plenty and never had and issue (I use HiFlo too, cheaper but good quality). Like you said hand tight is fine.
the reason i piss and moan about then is i have an oil filter cutter to keep an eye out for engine problems, and the quality of k&n filterd is very, very dissapointing. almost fram quality
@@silentbobfan32so what would be a better choice? I doubt K&N is that bad. I've seen videos touting their designs.
@@MadStylee619Hiflo is cheaper and better
Nice video man, You for sure need to post more about the different motorcycle brands especially with parts/ after market mods/accessories. I’ve been searching up oil filters for my bike lately and thought kn might be a good choice, so hearing others experience about different parts they get for their bike is super valuable. Thanks again dude 🤙🏽
True but that’s what Reddit and other forums are for
I'd use k&n and not feel bad... I'd use stp gold, I'd use napa gold I will not use anything Fram. Synthetic elements for synthetic oils. I have never had a problem. Change your oil on motorcycle every 3-4k and cars at 3-5k enjoy 😉
@@nathanallen900if U wreck ur engine all day long that's a good way to go.
Napa gold is Wix, and a very good filter! 👍
Fram & K&N are the bottom of the barrel in filters!!!
The only K&N filters that had issues were the K&N H204 and H204C March 1, 2016 - September 30, 2016. Most every other issue goes back to incorrect installation like insufficient or too much torque.
I use Castrol grand Prix 10W 40 4 Stroke motorcycle oil and Suzuki oil filter on my 2015 V Strom 1000 abs which I bought in 2016. Back then the oil cost $ 5.50 L . Today at Canadian Tire it's advertised at $13.99L. Madness
Don't tell me, someone's gonna now come up with how to convert your engine from metal cannister filter to paper element filter 😂😂
I mean they all paper element haha but im sure they sell a reusable plastic shell with propietary paper insert but thats stupid
@@nativeoutdoors1780you know what I mean 🥲 why's everyone on here gotta be a smartass and try and catch you out?
@@benmanning4340 keep crying
@@BreakKaydenBreak well I'm not wrong .....
I've experimented with different filters, including multiple K&N oil filters. There are at least a couple different variations of the K&N filters, and I have seen "fakes" before as well. I say "fakes" because some filters have completely different internal designs, even when the outside and model number show to be the same. Currently, I stick with OEM, however, even I have found OEMs to have 3 or even more designs, manufactured by other third-party manufacturers. I've spent hours of research on these oil filters, so far, so good with my choices.
Yeah, all manufacturers use third parties for oem filters. A lot use fram. Honda has two own filters for my civic si, and one of them is proven better than the other. If they changed manufacturers, or updated the existing filter they use as own, they change the part number, but it’s common to go to two different dealerships, and get two different filters made by two different third parties.
@@thagingerninjer5391i was going out of my way to get OEM filters for my WRX until i learned that they’re made by Puralator, that made things much easier and a bit cheaper
Always look into any filter to check for debris from the manufacturing process before installing. Every brand sometimes has metal shavings loose inside.
I have a 2022 MT 07. Im excited to see what you do with this bike
he sold it. 🤣
I know 😂
My best friend had one pop a weld on his VFR800 in the middle of Nebraska.
OEM for life
I like the WIX or Amsoil filters myself. Flow good and great protection. I want to try one of the reusable filters, but haven’t gotten around to it.
I've been using K&N for cars and bike for as long as I can remember, no issues. Just be careful with them and there aren't many ways for em to go bad.
i’ve run KN oil filters for a few years now on cars and they are great tbh more than enough filtration with less flow restriction
Have been rocking k&n oil filter. No problem whatsoever
Me neither. I go to buy a filter and whichever one is available (HF or K&N) is the one i get. I think a lot of the problems people have with K&N is leaking because they install them using a wrench when that’s only for removing them
@@RapidRedRider my research confirms improper installation with todays released models. Older ones from 2016 were part of an official recall.
@@metalmavenmike80 i do remember a recall some years back, but those should all be long gone by now right?
@@RapidRedRider yeah. I'm sure it's just a miniscule case by case issue with a bad seal by installer error.
@@metalmavenmike80 that’s a good point. These two brands do come with a wet gasket, but it should still be lubed up. I think the grease it comes with is to prevent the o ring from drying out while its on the shelves, not meant to be installed without rubbing a bit of oil on it
I'm so happy you didn't torque the filter on so many ppl think they have to be on so tight but it's doesn't hand tight will do, on cars to everyone if you do a oil change yourself only do hand tight don't make our job harder if you gotta bring it to the shop
I had the o ring fail on a k&n oil filter. (Yes it was tightened by hand) Unbeknownst to me it coated the right side of my CBR 1000 and right side of the rear tire with oil. Lucky for me I only had left turns on my way home and didn't slide out. Last K&N oil filter I'll ever buy
I love the k&n filters for anything i dont ever have issues with them
I living in Germany and the most Bikers buying HiFlo Filtro. They are really good quality.
Oil always Motul 5W-40 fully synth.
Oo reminds me to do the oil. I always do hand tight and then half a stroke just in case. I dont want to lose the filter and get oil over the back tyre
I was watching attentively and didn't notice it was on loop
Got onna them hi flows from Barney's. Worked well. I usually get the KN160 love that I can slap that 17mm wrench & not have to bare hand it when it's hot af.
I use hiflo filters personally too,they have a variant with a hex too
What if the headers are blocking the filter do you take the entire exhaust off or
Ive used these K&N filters for quite a long time and have never had any issues whatsoever
Says he hears bad but does nothing to explain why…
Other than it being black instead of white it looks sooo identical to my Vq35HR's K&n filter
Yeah I've been using them for years, no issues
Filtration is key the most damaging particles to an engine are from 5 to 15 microns
You won't know how good a filter is until you start cutting them open
Thanks!
Drain bolt has a torque spec. Its 31ftlbs on the fz/mt07. I would also advise using the oem style crush washer. It will actually collapse and crush when torquing properly.
Damn my 22’ Kawasaki z900 is like 21ftlbs of torque for the oil plug
31 is a lot
Many FZ/MT oil pans have been stripped because of that 31 ft lbs number. There are several torque specs in the manual that are way too high. The rear axle calls for 108 which again has caused a lot of destroyed axle blocks, mine being one of them. I stick with 25 for the drain bolt and 80 for the axle nut, no issues
@@RapidRedRider Yeah I saw the 31 on the manual and completely ignored it. I’ve been good with about 20 and also had no problems
@@RapidRedRider most likely due to an inaccurate torque wrench. Cheap torque wrenches are often way off. Even expensive ones are supposed to be recalibrated every so often. I have done many oil changes on cp2 motors and never once had an issue with the factory torque spec.
You relize k&n oil filter is a fram filter with a removal nut only on the end right?
Any reason to warm up b4 drain the oil?
Pre oil the rubber ring my dad taught me that a mechanic of 15 years and always hand tighten
Got any opinions on magnetic oil drain plugs?
The torque for the oil filter is 17n.m if you were to torque it to spec using a filter wrench
A single tear goes out to my 2000 sv650 sitting under a white sheet with no spark in my garage.
Why does it need to warm up first?
I always just buy mi e from the main dealer. Probably paying more for something I can get cheaper on AM but it’s peace of mind.
It was tested some time ago by some people on youtube but k&n has the most free flowing filter element. I can’t remember what the trade off is exactly but mobil1 had the least resistance and best flowing with the best particulate filtering capacity. The best for a daily driver driven hard, it’s what I use on my boosted miata as well as their “race spec” 15w50 because it has been ran dry by the previous owner.
That oil cooler, the Mazda Protege and Miata have almost the same one 😮
I used to use Shell Rotella in my ZX-14, has the same ingredients for the wet clutch as regular motorcycle oil and is a lot cheaper. Actually got more life out of my clutch while drag racing with the Rotella than I did any other oil.
Food for thought
Use Amsoil filter and oil... your ride will love you.
Wix and amsoil they both good. I think recently amsoil oil filters quality got bad
from working with bike mechanics and car mechanics they never warm up the bike that cycles the old oil and you have old oil in the vehicle you need all the oil at the bottom of the engine but every one does it deferent
I did my oil change and replaced it with a kn one and that was months ago no issues yet
put a bypass in place of the filter! all the maintenance & money you can save.
i use that K&N filter on my monster
I use the same and never been a issue, people think the nut on the top is for tightening the filter and they crack the filter if you just hand tighten it you’re good
What is the difference between the FZ07 and MT07? Or are they the same bike
I prefer to use motul oil no matter what brand of bike. Just personal preference though. I used to have a K&N oil filter on my bike, what’s all the commotion about?
those motul prices make me want to run shell rotella in my cbr600 though😩
@@Michael-lu2tzi don't think Shell is bad either, researched both before I went with Motul, mainly because of the Motul stickers I placed on my bike.. 😅
@@Michael-lu2tzrotella isn’t bad. I run Honda oil in my cbr1000rr, and a Honda filter, but the whole package at my dealership is only $35, or I would look for different options.
I had that exact k&n filter fail on me on my Mv Agusta brutalle while riding, o ring blew out. Oiled down the back tire but thankfully didn’t go down.
Could have been pinged, had that once. Didnt lube it up enough, and it pinged while installing the filter. Started leaking after a few heat cycles.
@@acvn-hg9gy It had over 1k miles on it
Don't over tighten the drain plug or the filter just until snug and another half turn is plenty tight
Can someone explain why its bad? I currently have that exact oil filter on that exact bike.
I'm in the same predicament and had the same question. What's wrong with them, Adobo?
A lot of people have complained that the filter collapsed on them, starving the engine of oil, and blowing it up. It happens to all oil filters, if you don’t change them frequently enough. Cheap Fram paper filters are really bad about it.
There’s nothing with them. They just have a bad reputation because some people used the nut on the end to tighten the oil filter on which weakens the structure somehow and can cause leaks and/or other problems. The nut is simply there to make it easier removing the filter when changing oil, but always make sure to hand tighten them on like any other filter and your good.
@@tavecooper7793 ok THAT makes perfect sense..typical user error leads to false representation of product reliability. Had nothing to do with it's micron filtering capabilities. I'll rest easy tonight! 😁👍
Forgot to use oil on the o ring of the filter to.
2 out of 3 leaked and dumped oil all over my rear tire and brake and I never used the nut to install I think it’s a vibration issue on my parallel twin now I only use factory filters
Oil on the filter o-ring makes it so the o-ring doesnt stick to the engine.
But how do you dispose of your oil after you change it??
They had a problem with one of their filters # 204, they fixed it now its #204-1
What happens with old oil? Where to dump old oil?
I've bought the k&n-303 filter about 8 times over the past 3 and a half years across two of my bikes and they've been good so far, hope they're good in the future
I also use the hi flo oil filter, super cheap and work really well
Just remembered, we need a bike first😢
Man, what happened to K&N filters. They were really good, and then they started making cheaper filters that are not nearly as good. Same.
How long sre people leaving these filters on these bikes?? I use these on my speed triple ever 2 or 3 k miles. Never had issues . Same as my gsx250r
I had one on my ninja it seemed fine until i got hit in a parking lot. Whats wrong with knm
I don’t know how anyone could live with not putting the best of the best of fluids in their vehicles
Whats the best?
I stick to the OEM filters. There design with the recommended oil pressure for the engines.
I just put on a new k&n... Damn
I would be interested to hear what people are saying about the k&n oil filters, personally I would swear by them,, had air filters and oil filters from them for years and never had any issues and it's allways helped with performance to,, use them with a good exhaust can and maybe a dynojet kit or a remap or new chip and get really good results.
If you're waiting until the o-ring is cracked to replace it, you are way too late.
Instructions unclear I drained the oil with it running and now it doesn’t run
Does FZ and MT model same ? Ph
do a video for coolant on this bike and brakes and lubrication pls
I been using k n filters on gsxr’s and cbr’s for years generally with mobil 1 oil, never had a issue, never even heard of a issue…. I’m really curious what is the issue ?
Only thing I use made by K&N is air filters, OEM for oil, I order 4 at a time and don't worry about it for 2 yrs.. never had a problem..
How many liters of oil do you use?
I’ve never had any issues with the K&N filter.
How do I put oil in my 2 stroke? It needs an oil change😅
Try removing the drain plug, then removing the filler cap. With the filler cap in place the vacuum keeps the oil splash to a minimum when you remove the plug.
There shouldn't be a vacuum at all, thats what the carter ventilation is for :) usually a rubber hose between your valvehead and the clean side of your airbox.
@@acvn-hg9gy It’s not a total vacuum, hence “keeps the oil splash to a minimum” vice non existent. Try it and see….
I run that same brand hi flow filter
What's wrong with an oem filter?
I've never used k&n, so I could care less. I go with whatever the mechanics use the most.
I worked at a Yamaha shop and we mostly used HiFlo filters
Does your high flow have a safety wire setup for track days?
A hose clamp works as well, just tighten around the filter after installing and have the bolt against the engine so the filter can't come loose.
Aren’t Hi-flow filters made by K&N?? Or maybe the other way around?
Other way around
@@Duck_Head i knew it was one of the two. That’s why i dont worry about it too much, i just buy whichever is available of the two
I wonder what’s the best and easiest bike to give a tuneup
Dont forget to turn ur motorcycle off befor renovering the plug ☠️
K&N oil and air are some of the worst to use. The OEM are generally the best at similar cost
Some people don't realize they r the problem not the machine/material they work with.
I always run the bike till it dies after I take all the oil out to make sure there is nothing left. Works like a charm. 😊
I admire your patience. I just pour some water in while it’s running to clean the engine and then I fill the engine back up with vegetable oil once I think it’s clean enough
Oh boy… somebody is gonna take this advice and run with it. Please don’t forget to fill it half way with vegetable oil, and the rest with water (just up until it over flows) since vegetable oil is a bit more thick than car oil.
At this point I’m too afraid to ask is this legit statement or is this a troll.
@@TheEndarskyblazerit’s 100% a troll statement. 😂
I posted a meme on fb about popping your hood before you go on a long trip during the summer, so your engine stays cooler once, and legit had a kid’s hood fly off of his car because he did it. 😂😅
That small mistake and No common sense i've done...not removing oil cap while doing oil change. 😂😂😂
I always do my oil changes straight after a ride in the twisties so the oil gets super hot and is able to desolve all the gunk out of the engine. Just letting the engine run for a few minutes isn’t doing it
Clean the surface on the filter housing, oil the seal and hand tighten (With canister filters), no need to use any tools, it will damage the filter surround and also the ring. That shit is stuck on there when hand tightened, tools are for removing not fitting (unless specified to use a tool for fitting).
I have to ti take off my entire clutch cover 6 bolts and then finally 2 more to reach my oil filter
Bought 3 of them and they all leaked from the same spot
I've used them on both my bikes multiple times with no issues
Not if its a semi dry sump bike sometimes wants to be ice cold to make sure all the oils in the pan