Testing An Amazon 12v Power Supply!
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- čas přidán 19. 05. 2020
- Testing out the cheapest 12v power supply I could find on Amazon! This is the continuation of looking for a power supply to power my shop LEDs, my benchtop D3806 and possibly some improved lighting!
I test this thing out almost to full load and check out the noise produced by it as well!
Thanks for watching!
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If you are interested in getting your own, this is the model I bought: amzn.to/33b9dgs
I hooked this up to my boss pv3700 5ch boss amp. Running 2 6.5 speakers and a 12 inch Rockford P3d2 subwoofer. I split an 8 gauge wire to connect to all 3 + and a 8 gauge wire to all 3 - . Do I need all the positive and negative hook ups or could I just use 1 positive terminal and 1 negative. Could you explain why?
I've got 6 of these in series to make a 72V e-bike battery charger and they pull the full 30A each for about an hour and they have done so 2-3 times a week for 3 years!
I think this power supply is rated for 30A, and it should produce that continuously. Your tests didn't come near that limit, so it's understandable that the mosfets didn't even get hot.
Nice video. I liked the screen on screen scope work!
I use these exact same power supplies, the brand I found like is Menzo, or something like that. They cost like $18 with 2 day free shipping. I even had lightning hit one of these and it still works, I had to replace the fan, but so what! I also use 14 gauge power cable instead of the 18 gauge power cable you have there on your power supply. Cheers!
Thanks. I was going to buy something like this that looks exactly the same as yours. I was wondering if it was really capable of 30a. You convince me.
Great Video. Thanks for sharing your tests with us. I am a Christmas LED show enthusiast and I have used this type of power supplies for years. There is one thing that is haunting in the LED show world, and this is using two different power supplies to power inject one long string of LEDs. I've doing this with no issues, but people say this is a big no, no because it could cause one or both of the power supplies to catch fire. It will be amazing if you can share with us your thoughts and maybe do a video on it. Basically the LED strip will have a power supply providing power on one side and other providing power at the end of the string (maybe 300 pixels). This will setup will have two positives and two negatives from two different power supply connected. Thanks in advance for your time.
Should these be covered in a protective box? Or can they be screwed straight on to a wall?
Good video but I would like to know when does the fan comes on do it work
I'm about to install a Chinese diesel heater and the power side of it needs 12v , I purchased a desktop Power Supply that puts out 13.8 v . Would this power supply damage the heater ? Thanks
Hook a power inverter up to it. You can draw large current for indefinite time without burning your bench.
Did the fan ever come on?
The ripple is cause DC only uses negative polarity that is straight wave, while AC uses positive and negative polarity causing curved waves. Look into how rectifier diodes create DC current in a electronic book.
Excuse me can you please answer me why you put 12.08 voltage on power supply instead of 12? By this time probably you have already put this leds in your office do they work properly? Thank you and keep up the good work
It's difficult to get it exact and it doesn't really matter :) Also I tend to set my power supplies a touch high in case the voltage falls when you start pulling current
@@SimpleElectronics I often times run a bench power supply at 13.2VDC to compensate for voltage drops when under load. This compensation happens automatically in your vehicle, for example, my F150 Ford when not running measures 12.4ish VDC but when in a running state I measure 14.4ish VDC from the battery as it's being charged. Great question.
I often times run a bench power supply at 13.2VDC to compensate for voltage drops when under load. This compensation happens automatically in your vehicle, for example, my F150 Ford when not running measures 12.4ish VDC but when in a running state I measure 14.4ish VDC from the battery as it's being charged. Great question.
Is DROK a reputable company for power supplies (and is their Amazon store reliable)? I want to get their 24V/20A variable power supply for a personal project. Thanks.
DROK is just a name they came up with for selling generic stuff like this.
Hey bro so i bought this very power supply IMAYCC AC to DC Converter 12V SMPS,110V to 12V DC Converter,12 Volt Power Supply Max 600W 50A DC Power Converter with on/off switch to power my 12v car kicker 12in L5 subwoofers paired with a Rockford Fosgate Punch P4004 4 channel Amplifier (400 watts rms) mated to my home theater system via line out, so everything works good the power supply works amazing, and the subwoofers sound amazing in the studio here, but one thing thatbis annoying is that the fan in the power supply is screaming even if the amp and subwoofers are not playing…. Even under light load or no power load, the fans emit a certain tune and it drives me crazy, how can i add a fan controller to this set up, the power supply is rated for 600 watts and the amp is 400 watts much love, i need this to be quiet please help on a side note I even if i use the amp and the woofers for hours and hours on end the amp and power are cool to the touch… so the fan is bugging out…
a fan blowing on the resistors would help them and a second meter reading the amps?
I could do that but alas, I didn't ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
They are intended to be used with heat sinks. (Hence the mounting holes)
how do you wire in an amp meter ?
That AC measurement is definitely a ghost voltage, it's not really there. I wouldn't trust multimeters that don't do true RMS conversion, and which don't have a low-Z measurement function. If you looked at the 12V on a scope, I highly doubt there would be 4 volts of ripple, that would be verging on unusable, even if it disappears under some load.
You must have a frying pan or something to put them on. Be the best option if you don't have anything.
hi man low on money so can you do an emf test on a power Supply and/or cannabis grow light
Thanks, now I'm absolutely sure that load resistors would be an absolutely stupid solution to generate (intentional) load on a power supply. ;)
Will this run a car radiator fan? I want to make an exhaust fan for my home garage but not sure how to power it.
It should, but it would depend on the exact draw of the fan
I want to do the same thing with a car radiator fan in the garage. Those fans move a lot of air and draw a lot of amps. My fan is rated at 300 watts DC which would be 25 amps.
@@randy030363 I ended up using a car gel battery I had laying around I wired up the fan with a cheap heavy duty 12v switch so I can cut it off and when ever it drains the battery I have a 30 dollar harbor freight battery charger to charge it up. So far it has run the fan maybe 13 hours over the course of 2 weeks and the battery is still in the green. If you don't need a super sophisted setup it works.
I'm just tired of buying so much cheap stuff made in China.
@@uwishucould158 just keep it charging while it’s running
It's charge 12v 88a battery
Couldn’t you just use capacitors to smooth the voltage?
These are very cheap switching supplies, cheap design of a forward converter. Mine is a 30 Amp unit, spec is said to be at full load 150mV ripple which is a lot. But this unit will work with most home applications. I've operated this unit at 30 Amps and voltage adjusted to 13.8 vdc and ran for one hour at full load. And it survived.
Pretty decent unit for the price for sure
Can I use this power supply for power car amplifier which has two 25a fuses ???
those fuses are an absolute maximum, you would have to test the actual current draw of your device, unfortunately
@@SimpleElectronics I am currently using computer power supply rated 20 amps for my car amplifier volumes upto 70 percent and has a respectable output above 70 % volumes Power supply just goes off , shutting down amp ,, hence I thought that buy this power supply of 30amps ,, and set it to 13v 30 amps this will do good I feel , is this right ???
@@sanketpatil6084 it's a bit more complex than that - it's possible the amp draws a lot of current for a few milliseconds (like on a large bass hit for example) and the power supply goes into overcurrent protection...I would try an even bigger power supply if I were you
If it's output rating is 30 Amps DC....yes
For amplifiers, you have to consider the total continuous power in RMS reported by the amplifier manufacturer and divide by 20. Example 1, assuming that you are using an amplifier that provides 600 WRMS (it has to be the power in RMS, never maximum power), then you divide 600/20 = 30A. You will need a 12V Power supply that provides 30A. Example 2: using a 600WRMS amplifier and another 1000WRMS amplifier. Then add the powers 600+1000 = 1600WRMS, meaning 1600/20 = 80A, you will need a 12V 80A power supply.
Can i use this power supply to run a 12v 120w vacuum cleaner?
120W means about 10 amps, should work for you
Can you please add the link for purchase ?
Here is the specific one I ordered amzn.to/33b9dgs
@@SimpleElectronics Thank you very much
With a 12VDC / 10A DC power supply, if you cut off the DC plug and expose the bare wires, would you get a major ZAP/JOLT when you touched those bare wires? How about on your 12VDC / 30A DC power supply? I am just trying to fully comprehend how different AMPERAGE in these DC supply units impacts getting a ZAP/JOLT from their bare wires. MANY THANKS!
It really doesn't affect it much, but basically if you disconnect it from the wall and you want to avoid a shock, you can use a piece of metal to short the two prongs of the unplugged plug together, and that should discharge some of the capacitors. Once you open the case, you have to do the same procedure with all the other capacitors in order to be safe.
You said you have two 1 ohm resistors to pull 12 amps but your video only showed one 1 ohm resistor. Am I missing something?
The other one is that orange you see up top just out of frame
@@SimpleElectronics Thanks for this idea. I just received my items from Amazon. What gauge wire did you use to connect resistors?
what is the name of the resisters
Name of Resistors not important however you can get pretty cheap from Amazon. I go with cost, and other factors as: resistor value and tolerances of resistor rating in wattage vs your application.
Is that an RMS meter?
you know, I'm really not sure!
edit: I just checked, it claims to be true RMS.
@@SimpleElectronics it actually says so on the front of the meter just below the dial???
It almost bit me on the nose and I didn't notice rofl
RMS root means square.....only good for AC meter applications; RMS not needed (used) for DC voltage measurements.
never buy this supply its rubbish
Nothing but a very cheap: forward converter switching supply. Ya get what you pay for.