Thanks for sharing, I see your wood mandrel it out of round and it has caused your ring to be out of round as well, a little thicker on one side than the other. I had this same problem the other day so I make sure to re-turn the mandrel and making it round with no wobbles, thus creating a round ring with no wobbles. I know that I am a little late to the part here and you may have already corrected this by biting the bullet for an adjustable mandrel, lol.. Thanks again for sharing and I like the ring..
Thanks for sharing. I like your economy method of ring making. In this day and age of turning gadgets one could spend a couple hundred pretty quick, just setting up to do rings. I like it!
The rings I make I would leave them at a standard of 2mm. Thus far it works the best for me and the client. Thanks for the video. It really gave some more insight.
You should really think about taking that wobble out of your stick because it translates to the ring. You can see that one sides a little thicker than the other.
Probably should have put a piece of wood under the square before drilling that center hole, to prevent tear-out underneath... also the placement of the sandpaper on that dowel is a bit too far inwards - you might run the risk of catching the end of the stick on the inside of the jaws when sanding as you angle it to get at the edge of the ring...
I don't have that chuck to place a wood rod in like this. I'm looking for other ways to do this, perhaps with an MT1 taper but somehow attach it to the rod. Trying to keep it all wood but we'll see. May have to bite the bullet and spend the 80 bucks for a good clamping chuck.
You can also turn a MT1 taper on the wood piece you want to use as a mandrel and hold it that way. This Video shows how a wood mandrel with a MT taper is done czcams.com/video/cTdrrA2FW7E/video.html .
For something like this use a real good quality CA glue such as Bob Smith Industries and use an activator… for the inside of rings or other small things like pens, use a Q-tip… I out CA on the Qtip and then run it across the item I’m finishing, then a quick squirt of activator, then a dry cloth to wipe it dry, then repeat, for hard wear items like rings or pens, I use around 10-12 coats then polish with a plastic polish and it will come out looking like glass
Buy ringturning CA glue. It’s made for for this. You want very thin glue and gorilla glue is too thick. You should be putting 3 or 4 thin coats on, not one thick one.
Your compass point marked the center so you should be able to let the Forstner bit find that dent or use a center punch to mark it deeper so the drill bit slips right into it. Eyeballing is only as good as your eyes lol 🫶🏻🇨🇦
Oh boy you make me nervous. That sanding stick is way too far inside. All it has to do is catch between the openings in your chuck and you’ll rip your fingers off. 😲😲😲
Thanks for sharing, I see your wood mandrel it out of round and it has caused your ring to be out of round as well, a little thicker on one side than the other. I had this same problem the other day so I make sure to re-turn the mandrel and making it round with no wobbles, thus creating a round ring with no wobbles. I know that I am a little late to the part here and you may have already corrected this by biting the bullet for an adjustable mandrel, lol.. Thanks again for sharing and I like the ring..
Thanks for sharing. I like your economy method of ring making. In this day and age of turning gadgets one could spend a couple hundred pretty quick, just setting up to do rings. I like it!
Making bentwood rings is far better and stronger than this method
@@Ibnspud Very true. and I have a lathe now ;)
@@Ibnspud You can actually use a lathe. Get a mini lathe
The rings I make I would leave them at a standard of 2mm. Thus far it works the best for me and the client. Thanks for the video. It really gave some more insight.
You should really think about taking that wobble out of your stick because it translates to the ring. You can see that one sides a little thicker than the other.
Probably should have put a piece of wood under the square before drilling that center hole, to prevent tear-out underneath... also the placement of the sandpaper on that dowel is a bit too far inwards - you might run the risk of catching the end of the stick on the inside of the jaws when sanding as you angle it to get at the edge of the ring...
Bros got two $7.5k lathes
Nice.....
Put the tape on the right side of the ring and put it thick enough that the ring cannot slide past it
Ever have problems with the wood rings breaking if not stabilizing the wood first?
Can you stabilize the ring after its carved and everything? Asking for a friend 👀
Güzel bir çalışma olmuş
I don't have that chuck to place a wood rod in like this. I'm looking for other ways to do this, perhaps with an MT1 taper but somehow attach it to the rod. Trying to keep it all wood but we'll see. May have to bite the bullet and spend the 80 bucks for a good clamping chuck.
You can also turn a MT1 taper on the wood piece you want to use as a mandrel and hold it that way. This Video shows how a wood mandrel with a MT taper is done czcams.com/video/cTdrrA2FW7E/video.html .
Thanks! Very informative. I have the same gorilla glue liquid ca glue but mine leaves a cloudy white finish when it dries. Any ideas?
Try a different type of cloth or holding the cloth there for less time.
I have had the same problem before. I found that just buffing the ring will got rid of a lot of the cloudy finish.
For something like this use a real good quality CA glue such as Bob Smith Industries and use an activator… for the inside of rings or other small things like pens, use a Q-tip… I out CA on the Qtip and then run it across the item I’m finishing, then a quick squirt of activator, then a dry cloth to wipe it dry, then repeat, for hard wear items like rings or pens, I use around 10-12 coats then polish with a plastic polish and it will come out looking like glass
Buy ringturning CA glue. It’s made for for this. You want very thin glue and gorilla glue is too thick. You should be putting 3 or 4 thin coats on, not one thick one.
Your compass point marked the center so you should be able to let the Forstner bit find that dent or use a center punch to mark it deeper so the drill bit slips right into it. Eyeballing is only as good as your eyes lol 🫶🏻🇨🇦
Any suggestions for if I don't want to use ca glue? What about friction polish?
The CA glue also helps to make it stronger and a bit more durable. It is not only for the shine. Lol..
uv resin
Tried it this way half a dozen times and each time the wood cracked after going through..why didn't yours
Accelerator
Oh boy you make me nervous. That sanding stick is way too far inside. All it has to do is catch between the openings in your chuck and you’ll rip your fingers off. 😲😲😲
I recommend Woodprix to every beginner and not only.