Your comment about the Miata community having a set belief that just isn’t true is beyond accurate. To make it more comedic, they’re so stubborn on forums as well even when you provide data… Must be a boomer thing idk. Great video man as always.
Similar issues in other car communities, such as corvette and lotus. I think it's a human thing, trusting gossip from friends rather than evidence. The boomer comment is unfair.
Another possible failure part in shifting is tired plastic lockout plate. 2 friends this year found out the ring on lockout plate is broken after checking entire hydraulic. That affect position of shifter and causing difficulty.
Today (Monday, the 26th) is my first shakedown of my new 128i. It’s a great car so far - highly encourage the m3 control arms coupled with any camber plates; I went with dinan units. Don’t upgrade to the 135i calipers, they crack when hot - I used the 328i ones instead.
The NC has a fuji style lsd which is known to be trash the moment you push them on track. For torsen diffs, they don't work the moment a wheel leaves the ground but they generally are pretty good. clutch types are much higher maintenance, 10-15k oil change intervals, and generally will lock harder. My OS Giken is pretty smooth and is very controllable. Best compromise is something like a quaife, doesn't look too much, low maintenance.
@Zent Rose - I didn't notice before, but your local track doesn't require you to have a broomstick test for that car? Even with the PRHT / RF up, I know that most tracks that are local to me (ViR being one of them) won't allow me on-track. This includes things like TNiA. How did you get around this... and have you seen MX-5 slow-rollover (like.. slowly slid into a tire barrier and slowly rolled ) damage? Is this out of scope for you for a track-only car (understand the all-or-nothing for having rollbars and the human head). Thank you for your insights and thoughts, sir!
Yeah they let me run here. The risk is low at buttonwillow but other tracks like willow springs I wouldn’t run in this car with this set up. Eventually I’ll do a roll bar
Curious what kind of oil you're running? I just recently switched to pennzoil ultra platinum and it's crazy that the difference can actually be felt in the butt dyno.. I know it's an oil usually reserved for high end vehicles but with vehicle costs these days trying to maintain what I have which is an mr2 2gr-fe swap
@@ZentRose Great oil as well... I forgot to mention.. I'm also utilizing blackstone testing to ensure the oil is doing what it's supposed to... Just checked at 7500 miles and it's still clear [ not tracking the vehicle... I'm up in the pnw ] This is where I'd normally change my oil but going for a 250 Gallon consumed oil change... Which I'm close. I've got about 3 tanks left. Be sure to enjoy your car(s)
Not sure if we have the same issues, shifting from 3rd to 4th quick and hard would result in some grinding, any other gears are fine. Going to replace the master today and see if it helps.
Replaced masters, didn't fix it. Replaced slave cylinder and got a stainless steel clutch line, havn't grinded since. Even did a track day no issues... i think it is fixed but I am still subconsciously shifting slower 3-4 :)@@Gihipoxu
would you still recommend NC2 for someone that want FIRE ? probably 30% track/autocross and rest daily. Found some CLEAN examples 2012-2013 30k-35k miles for ~17k. Also thoughts on PRHT vs soft top ? what other very good value for the money in the same vein ~15k or so.. looking to keep car for at least 5-7 years and wondering if should consider any other cars? cost of maintenance and consumables is a factor as well not just initial cost. thanks
Your shifting issue on track is likely two problems. The hydraulics go bad eventually, so you're probably right about that. The other items to upgrade are the motor mounts. Buy the AWR 70 durometer mounts, and the trans will shift butter smooth on track.
The brake pedal went to the floor so I just had to pump the pedal to stop the car. (I assume E brake would still work as a last resort) Steering was sloppy with the wheel flopping around. It worked enough to drive into the pit
Which sway bar are you using on the front and what spring rates do you have? I have 9k/7k springs and a progress front bar with no rear bar and it feels great on track like that. A bit different than what I see other people running
@@ZentRose think it depends on your car, they can require annual star smogs pretty much arbitrarily. unfortunately happened with my m3 i bought last year.
I ordered from a Mazda dealership online. They were $189 a piece but shipping was $30. I think Goodwin is a little over $200 a piece with free shipping
I am about to pick up a 2.5L swapped NC1 but it has stock CAMs. I wish the previous owner did the CAM but he did not. I wonder if it would be worth it to do CAMS since the added labor will be quiet big. @@ZentRose
Hey Zent I have a question. I love the NC 2.5 but thinking of adding more power in the spring. Do you think I should add forced induction? If so turbo or supercharger?
Hoping for more NC videos. Love the no nonsense and track focused aspect of this project.
There is more coming up. I just detoured the transmission in this car and will be swapping it out
@@ZentRosewhat size/offset wheel/tyres ?
Your comment about the Miata community having a set belief that just isn’t true is beyond accurate. To make it more comedic, they’re so stubborn on forums as well even when you provide data… Must be a boomer thing idk. Great video man as always.
Similar issues in other car communities, such as corvette and lotus. I think it's a human thing, trusting gossip from friends rather than evidence. The boomer comment is unfair.
I had 3rd to 4th shifting problem too, i changed the engine and transmission mounts to stiffer ones and that fixed it.
Another possible failure part in shifting is tired plastic lockout plate. 2 friends this year found out the ring on lockout plate is broken after checking entire hydraulic. That affect position of shifter and causing difficulty.
Been waiting for another nc update. Love the videos keeper coming
Car looks like so much fun. I just bought a 128i to retire my nb as a daily. Definitely will need to mod it down the line it feels too heavy and soft
Today (Monday, the 26th) is my first shakedown of my new 128i. It’s a great car so far - highly encourage the m3 control arms coupled with any camber plates; I went with dinan units. Don’t upgrade to the 135i calipers, they crack when hot - I used the 328i ones instead.
Nicely made video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
you def should make a video on your experience clutch type lsd vs torsen diff! I've thought about one for my brz
The NC has a fuji style lsd which is known to be trash the moment you push them on track. For torsen diffs, they don't work the moment a wheel leaves the ground but they generally are pretty good. clutch types are much higher maintenance, 10-15k oil change intervals, and generally will lock harder. My OS Giken is pretty smooth and is very controllable.
Best compromise is something like a quaife, doesn't look too much, low maintenance.
Now all she needs is a good clean.
Damn I might have that transmission hydraulic issue 🥲
@Zent Rose - I didn't notice before, but your local track doesn't require you to have a broomstick test for that car? Even with the PRHT / RF up, I know that most tracks that are local to me (ViR being one of them) won't allow me on-track. This includes things like TNiA.
How did you get around this... and have you seen MX-5 slow-rollover (like.. slowly slid into a tire barrier and slowly rolled ) damage? Is this out of scope for you for a track-only car (understand the all-or-nothing for having rollbars and the human head).
Thank you for your insights and thoughts, sir!
Yeah they let me run here. The risk is low at buttonwillow but other tracks like willow springs I wouldn’t run in this car with this set up. Eventually I’ll do a roll bar
Curious what kind of oil you're running? I just recently switched to pennzoil ultra platinum and it's crazy that the difference can actually be felt in the butt dyno.. I know it's an oil usually reserved for high end vehicles but with vehicle costs these days trying to maintain what I have which is an mr2 2gr-fe swap
Motul 5w40. If I had a proper oil cooler, I would run a lighter oil
@@ZentRose Great oil as well... I forgot to mention.. I'm also utilizing blackstone testing to ensure the oil is doing what it's supposed to... Just checked at 7500 miles and it's still clear [ not tracking the vehicle... I'm up in the pnw ] This is where I'd normally change my oil but going for a 250 Gallon consumed oil change... Which I'm close. I've got about 3 tanks left. Be sure to enjoy your car(s)
Not sure if we have the same issues, shifting from 3rd to 4th quick and hard would result in some grinding, any other gears are fine. Going to replace the master today and see if it helps.
Did it? Have noticed similar on rare occasions :)
Replaced masters, didn't fix it. Replaced slave cylinder and got a stainless steel clutch line, havn't grinded since. Even did a track day no issues... i think it is fixed but I am still subconsciously shifting slower 3-4 :)@@Gihipoxu
Hey Zent, what sway bar did you go with?
Hotchkis RX8 33mm front and racing beat rear. This will be too stiff of a front bar for many set ups.
would you still recommend NC2 for someone that want FIRE ? probably 30% track/autocross and rest daily. Found some CLEAN examples 2012-2013 30k-35k miles for ~17k. Also thoughts on PRHT vs soft top ? what other very good value for the money in the same vein ~15k or so.. looking to keep car for at least 5-7 years and wondering if should consider any other cars? cost of maintenance and consumables is a factor as well not just initial cost. thanks
Your shifting issue on track is likely two problems. The hydraulics go bad eventually, so you're probably right about that. The other items to upgrade are the motor mounts. Buy the AWR 70 durometer mounts, and the trans will shift butter smooth on track.
Not a big fan of those with a 2.5 if you use the car on the road as well.
@@alexm6340 Track doesn't care about street car comforts. :)
So u had only 1 wheel hub fail on track? N that caused all 4 brakes to stop working and steering completely? Was e brake still working?
The brake pedal went to the floor so I just had to pump the pedal to stop the car. (I assume E brake would still work as a last resort) Steering was sloppy with the wheel flopping around. It worked enough to drive into the pit
Which sway bar are you using on the front and what spring rates do you have? I have 9k/7k springs and a progress front bar with no rear bar and it feels great on track like that. A bit different than what I see other people running
Replace that coolant expansion tank. If not an aluminum one, at least a new oem one
It’s been replaced but it doesn’t look good. Prob going aluminum next
hey! was wondering how you deal with smogging the car? i love the idea of a 2.5 nc but worried about the running cost of $500 smogs each year
It's only every two years. Either do a hot smog or register it in a smog free county in California (this still requires initial smog).
@@ZentRose think it depends on your car, they can require annual star smogs pretty much arbitrarily. unfortunately happened with my m3 i bought last year.
If you had to do it over again, would you maybe just get another s2000 or c5 z06? Or would the higher consumables still deter you away from it?
C5 z but not s2000. S2000 is like a collector item now
Literally everyone I’ve known that had a Miata that actually drove it hard, won’t go back
Where did you buy the hubs from? Still need to do this.
I ordered from a Mazda dealership online. They were $189 a piece but shipping was $30. I think Goodwin is a little over $200 a piece with free shipping
What are your thoughts on the quick jack?
I haven't had any issues with it. It is pretty convenient if you have the space for it
Track dog battery relocation
Do you have aftermarket CAM in your 2.5?
yes fab 9 stg 1
I am about to pick up a 2.5L swapped NC1 but it has stock CAMs. I wish the previous owner did the CAM but he did not. I wonder if it would be worth it to do CAMS since the added labor will be quiet big. @@ZentRose
@@chanhyung88 I'd drive it stock for a little. The 2.5 is still fun with stock cams and a good tune.
Hey Zent I have a question. I love the NC 2.5 but thinking of adding more power in the spring. Do you think I should add forced induction? If so turbo or supercharger?
I prefer turbo and plan to eventually go that route with this @@chanhyung88