How to Install a Whole House Water Filter (iSpring WGB22B 2 stage, WSP-50SL)
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- čas přidán 3. 07. 2024
- #plumbing #DIY
In this video we go over the full procedure for installing a whole house water filter - the iSpring WBB22B 2-stage filter (but this is probably applicable to all kinds of filters - procedure will be similar to PEX, CPVC, or even Sharkbite ,which are probably easier to work with). My particular scenario has copper piping. The manufacturer recommends you use type "L" copper, which is thicker. But for residential installs, the thinner type "M" will probably be just fine. A system like this is beneficial in that it removes all kinds of dirt, particulates, chlorine, as well as other chemicals - nice, since otherwise you're drinking and bathing in this concoction of stuff. As someone pointed out in the pinned comment - I incorrectly stated how to measure the filter's pressure drop using the two gauges. You actually need to open a good amount of faucets first while letting the water flow through the filters. Then you'll be able to see the real pressure drop on the post filter gauge. Because in a closed state, the system just equalizes the pressure to city pressure, so doing a reading like that is moot.
Chapters:
00:00 Intro
01:15 Plumbing Diagram
02:32 Parts Needed (Bill of Materials)
03:36 Mock up/Dry fit
04:55 Water flow direction
05:35 Soldering pipes
07:30 Mounting to studs
08:07 Threading pipe assembly into filter housing
09:44 Building bypass loop
11:15 Shutting house water off/Plumbing into water supply
14:53 Pressure gauge install
15:06 Filter assembly
15:48 Testing the system
15:59 Fixing leaks
16:55 System test continued
17:34 Fixing leaky valve
18:17 Running water in house
18:35 Outro
iSpring WGB22B 2-Stage Filter:
amzn.to/3mLlQs9
iSpring WSP-50SL Sediment Filter:
amzn.to/3eDgY41
100 PSI 1/4" NPT Pressure Gauge:
amzn.to/3MF2emE
1" NPT MIP to 3/4" FIP Adapter - Brass bushing
amzn.to/33YzbXB
1/4 in. Fitting x FNPT Wrot Copper Adapter
www.ferguson.com/product/14-i...
3/4 x 3/4 x 1/4 in. Wrot Copper Reducing Tee
www.ferguson.com/product/34-x...
Tools I use:
www.amazon.com/shop/bootstrap...
If you found this video valuable and wish to support the channel, below is my Amazon shop page. By purchasing anything through this link, I will receive commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you!
www.amazon.com/shop/bootstrappin - Jak na to + styl
Just a tip! to test dynamic differential pressure drop, pre and post filters, you need a high flow rate (many faucets open) while checking! you are just checking static in this video :)
That makes a lot of sense, I guess I won't be able to tell what the system's pressure drop is until I do this. Thanks for the tip, I think it warrants an addendum/additional video!
@@Bootstrappin you need a differential pressure gauge with max indicator dial. it will keep measuring the max when the faucets are open. but it will show zero when the faucets are closed.
A mock set up is a brilliant idea.
You are absolutely the best teacher.
That's very kind, thank you!
It was more helpful for us as you ran into issues and had to resolve them. I learned quite a bit, even had the same drippy handle, thanks so much! BIG BRAIN POWER 4LIFE.
I'm also very cautious about solder joints leaking.
I had to replace/fix some over the years. Not joints that I had made, but that were here long before.
I even had to replace runs of 1/2" copper pipe that sprung leaks with pinholes! It turns out, there is some cheap pipe out there that isn't so thin. So, I guess when sediment and grit is flowing through them, coming from the city lines, it kind of acts like sandpaper and wears down the inside of the pipe, creating thin sections where pinhole erupt. Of course, I replaced those with thicker-walled pipe.
Once you cut the water pipe to your house and you can not complete the job, buy some push fittings with a short piece of pex tubing to temporarily turn the water back on to your house. This is just a backup plan if you are soldering your pipes, just in case.
Best of luck making your own way! We are on a similar path and will hopefully be working for ourselves in the next year or two. Thanks for the great video!
All around outstanding job…High-end professional job that was very well documented
Thank you Michael!
You gave me a great idea for putting my filter in where my unused iron filter is!
Appreciate the video. I am going to be taking this project on in the near future and this really helps!!
Amazing! Best of luck on your new adventure. I’ll be looking forward to more of the always great content!
Thank you!
Great video, thank you! Planning my own filter installation with copper piping as well. It was instructional and entertaining at the same time!😄👍
Great video; I appreciate all the additional instructions and comments you provide. Very cool setup and I am thinking of installing one myself soon. This will be very helpful. Subscribed and looking forward to more of your videos.
Thank you!
I’m not “Matlock” old, but old enough that I come back here every few months for a refresher course. And of course for the gunga- lunga.
Great job ! Enjoyed your build. Much useful information here. Thanks for posting.
Sure thing, thank you!
Great video. Appreciate your oopsie moments as we all have them! Cheers.
Will be installing the same setup at our house. Dang! These 20 inch filters just arrived and they are huge! I didn't think about that,LOL.
Thanks lots of great info in here. I'm getting ready to do this in my home also.
I laughed when you said you made an "oppsies". Thank you for that. Great video, instructions and being honest about where you made mistakes. 5 stars.
Fulltime? Poggers, Bootboy!! Very much looking forward to it. Great moves, keep it up. Happy new year.
Thanks man! Happy New Year!
This was excellent, Definitely trying this. Thank you 🙏🏼
Awesome video. Content is top notch!
Thank you!
It maybe a 2 year old video, but very, very interesting and informative! Thank you.
Great video. Thank you.
hope you have a happy new year bootstrap bro. wasn't expecting you to announce trying to pursue yt full time but i'm here for it. wishing you luck man!
I appreciate it! YT, amongst other things... Happy New Year!
Excellent video and content .... your doing Good!😀
Nice video, thank you so much!
Thank you for the video
Dog, you need to replace that sharpie next. lol great video, I’m putting one of these in my house and that’s a great tip to change flow direction, I was trying to figure out how to plumb it all in with the orientation of my in/out water feed, but that makes it soo much easier to flip the filter housing on the bracket, thanks
outro was dope!
nice job on your video production
Thank you!
Bro how did you go about learning so much about plumbing? Great video man. And love the Smashing the Subscribe at the end 🤣🤣🤣
CZcams followed by a lot of trial and error lol. Thank you!
Oh yeah! That's the one, right there. 😁
This is exactly what I need to do TODAY!
I hadn't thought of going all the way with using pressure gauges, but I totally get what you are doing and why.
Your design has the exact in and out shutoffs as well as the bypass shutoff tap. EXCELLENT!
Our pipes here are all 1/2" so I don't know if I should build all this in 3/4, then where they cut into the main lines, use reducers.
Perhaps doing it that way would be good to keep flow restriction to a minimum. ????
However, for the main line, I'm only going to install a single filter. The sediment one.
I don't want to use a carbon for the whole house because for us, that's just a waste as much more water is used for showers, toilets and dishes than anything else.
For drinking, we already have a filter specifically for that.
However, we do have the carbon filter outside on the garden hose feed. That's to reduce chlorine for the plants.
We've done that for years and it really helps plants be healthier. Last year, due to FAKE supply issues, we couldn't find the materials to rebuild that part. The old one failed totally. So watering with direct city water, the plats were not as happy as years before.
The main reason for the need of a sediment filter, is that I'm also replacing the 2 valves on our hydronic heating system.
The regulator and the preventer. They are both clogged with sediment from the city.
I guess I'm in for a big job today.... sigh.
Pretty decent plumber
Thanks!
11:48 we are definitely kindred spirits. We both plumb our own pipes and we both still use the old school MS Paint software to draw funny diagrams on our computers😄
Great instructional! Nice that you show your mistakes too. All good plumbers make them, and know how to fix them as well😊
Just caught that you said your IQ was 800! I think you may have left off a zero or two bub😅
@@Rick-the-Swift you're right, with my MS paint masterpieces it's probably closer to 8000
@@Bootstrappin Hey while I've got ya, could you talk a little bit a bout that spin down filter? I'm going with the iSpring 20" 3 stage and trying to guess what is the best spin down filter size to choose. I'm thinking 200 or maybe even 500 micron size to just catch the big stuff before it goes through the big 3. Thoughts on how yours is working? I'm nervous about too much pressure reduction over all and especially right off the bat.
Sorry if you talked about it in the video and I missed it.
@@Rick-the-Swift right, so the finer you go the more likely you are to lose pressure. I can only speak to the one I bought (amzn.to/3eDgY41) which is at 50 microns -- my incoming pressure is equal to my outgoing pressure (45 PSI or so), so there was no discernible pressure loss neither through the big 3 or the smaller one. For me personally, that spin down is basically just insurance - it doesn't really matter what it is because it'll provide ample coverage for the far more expensive three stage. Particularly in cases where the city unexpectedly does pipe work and sends dirt through the pipes. With all that being said, it's not like replacement spin down filters are expensive or difficult to replace, (amzn.to/3eDgY41), so it may be worth a shot to get both a 50 micron and a 500 to see if there's any difference.
@@Bootstrappin That's good stuff Bootstrappin. Also not sure how you are going about getting your pressure readings, but wanted to point out in case it hadn't occurred, as it hadn't to me, but I saw where someone pointed out that others were making the mistake of taking the readings while all the faucets were off, and the system was static.
I have 4 bathrooms, two kitchens, two laundry rooms, and 4 or 5 outdoor spigots after my filters. I think I would try to open as much up as possible in and around the house then see what the readings show on both sides, but no doubt this is all still experimental for me.
Really appreciate your insight, and the job looks pro grade too- especially since you went the extra mile with the bypass valves.
I've renovated homes for 30 years so I've seen some stuff, but still always learning. Thanks again!
👍
man you did a great job planning and explaining all the details. if you wanted to be able to service this, you could have used a couple of brass union fittings to be able to pull the filter section out.
Thanks! And that's a solid suggestion, I like that.
Big brain time all the time!
I'm doing it right now!!!
smart guy!
I have a 3M Aqua-Pure whole house water filter that I have been threatening to install in my house for the past 2 years. Looks like I am going to have to get off my fat ass and finely install it. Thanks for the reminder.
It's quite a juicy project, I don't blame you. But pretty fun if you've danced the plumbing dance before.
I do the same thing. I buy things and then I have to talk myself into finally getting around to fixing or installing them.
I like a ball valve closer to the tee before the filter. So you don't have stagnant water in the copper pipe above the filters.
Can you please make a video properly showcasing how to change the filter? Would really really appreciate it!
Hose bib connection on the output side to
A) drain the house side
B) bucket fill if needed
I like those ideas, would be a great addition to have
Thank you for great, informative content! I am considering installing a whole house water filter as my city has replaced the water main on my street recently and now the water tastes like RUBBISH. I thought it was supposed to make things better?
Anyway, thank you for making this video.
Thank you! And that's surprising yeah, maybe it's just temporarily bad tasting on account of all the construction debris getting flushed out?
@@Bootstrappin Perhaps so. Specifically the water tastes like stale rubber. Maybe because of the new pipe? I'm not sure, hoping it will go away over time though. Until it does, I'm hesitant to drink this gunga water
Nice vid, i am a plumber in Germany and you wouldn’t use ballvalves here, i mean you can but i would prefer normal spindle valves with backflow prevention cuze they open softer and slower to avoid pressure peaks wich can occur when you open to fast. And i would insulate the tubes to avoid condensation water. For the threads i still use hemp because you can always correct a quarter of a turn with it if you turn the fitting to far and it swells as long as it is moist. I only use the Teflon stuff for high temperatures or aggressive media. And you would have to open the bypass to avoid stagnancy and use such diameter and length that it is below 3 liters volume. In a single house not that problem but in bigger installations. I don't know how stable your line pressure is, perhaps a pressure regulator would make sense
This is all really good and professional advice, thank you for sharing! I didn't even know plumbing hemp existed, that's very interesting.
@@Bootstrappin thanks mate😊 i meant to open the bypass from time to time of course. In Germany we have a law to protect the water and that says that you have to calculate and plan the installation so that a 100% water change is guaranteed every 72 hours to prevent stagnancy and that the most frequently used point is at best at the end of the line. Cuze depending on the temperature bacteria will grow inside the tube even through closed valves. That’s why you to cut and dry unused parts of an installation. The pressure regulator would protect your house installation from overpressure cuze without it you have the full netpressure inside your house too and thats way to high. You can hear that „BAMM“ if you close fast a 1 lever fitting in the bathroom or a magnetic valve of the dishwasher is closing. And these pressure peaks will one day kill your tubes because they are much higher than the normal pressure. Not that problem in your coppertubes but definitely the death for old PVC.
If my fittings are offset to each other, gauges not facing forward or filter heads at angles from another, can I back them off till they are in line?
Have you checked your waters TDS before the filter and after the filter?
How did the WSP-50SL do as a de-scaler?
You amazon filter links go non-available items. Do you recommend any other brands?
Great video, but using all copper, you definitely want to ground the system at both ends with #4 wire, and each filter should be flushed prior to installing so it doesn't cake up secondary and so on.
Good point about the filters, you could probably leave the downstream unscrewed and flush the first through that opening. Why would you need to ground?
I was at Lowes today and they had a similar Whole House filter but one of the 20" caster was clear, that thing was on sale for 50% off so it was 750 dollars. I think there seem to be a weird thing going on,
this is a great setup! is hard water not a concern ? maybe add a citric acid filter
I actually had a water softener there before, and it didn't seem to make too much of a difference (I also didn't feel so great about all the extra water it used). The city water quality around here is decent.
Have you seen pressure variances as the filters do their thing?
Not that I've noticed, input and output pressure have been identical so far.
Does this setup also filter water used for outside water spigots and sprinklers? Or are those lines separate? If not separated, do the filters need replacing after the summer time (assuming you're watering your grass more during that time)?
It strongly depends how your house is setup. In mine for instance, where the city water enters, there is a tee leading to a garden spigot in the front yard. With my setup, this spigot would be unfiltered. But the one in the backyard would be because it comes *after* where I chose to install my filter. And yes, filter replacement does depend on how heavy your usage is.
I really suck using copper solder. I really tried, at the end I used the propress version but I did not buy the propress gun, I bought a manual press that it was easy in someway but hard in some parts. Nevertheless you did a great job. Do you know if I already filtering why wholehouse filters do I need a 3stage filters (prefilter) for my RO system?
A press definitely simplifies things. Thank you. Are you asking why a pre-filter is needed in a water filtration system? If so, it's because it eliminates large particulates and impurities so they don't clog up the more expensive main filters. Also, the pre-filter is easier and cheaper to replace, and lengthens the lifespan of the main filters.
Heya, thanks for an awesome video! I’m now in the process of installing mine and this really helps.
I had some issues with finding the 1” adapter that brings the water to the filter. Maybe it’s because they are a little bit different here in Netherlands?
Do you mind sharing where you got yours from? Maybe they can ship it here…
Thanks in advance!
A lot of the stuff I got from a local plumbing supply store, but it is all also available on Amazon (although, I'm not sure what will happen if you access these links through the Netherlands -- let me know if it works):
1" NPT MIP to 3/4" FIP Adapter - Brass bushing
amzn.to/33YzbXB
1/4 in. Fitting x FNPT Wrot Copper Adapter
www.ferguson.com/product/14-i...
3/4 x 3/4 x 1/4 in. Wrot Copper Reducing Tee
www.ferguson.com/product/34-x...
@@Bootstrappin Thanks for sharing! We ended up finding a supplier in NL that had the adapter... It did take us quite some time to understand that there are two systems for the threads in a pipe 🙄 who would've tough! NPT/BSP and the sole difference is: one has a 55 degree angle and the other is a 60 degrees angle... so annoying...
no union?
Just curious any water slamming when you open and shut any of the valves
No, haven't noticed any noise
What's your thoughts on the filter housings that have the bypass and shutoff built into the housing itself? NO need to construct the bypass line.
Agreed, that would save a good amount of effort. In addition, the pressure gauges do offer some utility, but aren't necessary.
The Bypass loop can also be used to back flush the sediment filter.
Considering installing a bypass and wondering about possible bacteria growth in a long run. Do you have any advice on how to prevent it?
Don't know much about this. It's probably fine so long as you change the filters regularly. You may also consider a UV filter as the final stage in your system, like this: amzn.to/3X1xDnb
I want to install a similar system but my pre-plumbing has a drain pipe connecting directing into the water supply line, what am i supposed to do with the drain line?
I don't quite understand - what do you mean by a drain pipe connected into the water supply line? (Maybe upload a pic to imgur to help me understand)
@Bootstrappin it's a new construction house. The superintendent mentioned if we wanted to install water softner/filter we'd have to cap the laundry room drain pipe which currently has an air gap
white bread in the pipe stops the water enough to solder
is this to filter gray water.? i need laundry, shower, and dishwater recycled to irrigation
I honestly don't know. I use it to filter city water. My concern is that the filters probably wouldn't last very long, and would thus be prohibitive to run (plus I'm not entirely sure if they'd filter out detergents 100%). What you're asking for is probably similar to a water treatment plant. I found a bunch of stuff talking about greywater recycling, I guess it's a combination of using biocompatible/biodegradable detergents, and a certain amount of filtration.
Good luck!
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Have the pressure gauges been useful? Do they let you know when it's time to change the filter? I am considering them but since I am doing PEX they are so costly. Wondering if your plan actually worked or not as well as you had hoped. And would you still recommend using them? Thanks
Yes and no. I think I pinned a comment about this, but it comes down to this -- I incorrectly assumed how they functioned. If you want to get use out of them, you will have to actually open a bunch of faucets throughout the house first, so you can get dynamic, rather than static pressure drop. With the water flowing, you will be able to see what the incoming pressure is, versus the outgoing, and that's when you should make a mark on the pressure gauge and/or see if it is time to change the filters. On the other hand -- it may be a lot easier to just follow their filter change guidelines instead.
@@Bootstrappin So have you actually tried it and seen a differential pressure drop over the life of the filters running all faucets indicating a change is needed? Or have you not? Just trying to get a straight answer so I can decide whether to put them on my system or not. In my case I am planning to put 4 filters so it might be redundant to have guages come to think of it in the sense that I wouldn't know which filter is the culprit. And low pressure would be felt nonetheless if there were clogs. Anyway, let me know if you can.
Great video, new subscriber here.
I’m planning to install this same setup with the addition of a 100 micron pre filter before the 50 micron since I’m on well water.
We do have a water softener and my plan is to install the pre filters before the water softener and the carbon filters after the water softener. Any issues you see with my plan? 🤔
I had to read up on this and give it some careful thought. Your logic makes sense to me - well water usually has a large amount of sedimentation which can shorten the lifespan of both the softener and the carbon filter. By putting the cheapest (and easiest to replace) filters up front, you get rid of sediment first. Then you get rid of hard minerals, and the filter takes care of anything the softener didn't catch. I think it makes sense, although to make the most educated decision you ought to know the constitution of your well water first. If for example it's very iron heavy, you may consider putting an iron/oxidation filter up front. This article helps a lot:
waterfilterguru.com/whole-house-water-filter-before-or-after-water-softener/#:~:text=Whole%20house%20water%20filters%20should,chlorine%2C%20sediment%2C%20and%20iron.
@@Bootstrappin that’s a great article and exactly what I’ve been trying to find. Thank you!
@@Ryan.Willis good luck! Let me know what arrangement you go with!
for water drips on any pipe while you're soldering. stuff bread into the pipe. when you turn the water on it will disintegrate.
I've heard of this technique! Personally, I don't like it, it seems unsanitary. The bread has to go somewhere, and in this case, you'll have organic matter get stuck in the filter and linger. I vastly prefer the shop vac technique for that reason.
Do you think this system would be okay to install on a well water house? Im near the ocean and have to have water delivered in , being this close to the ocean i get a bit of saltiness. also does a filter system like this put too much strain on a house water pump?
Ah that's interesting. I concur with your thought process, the pump would probably have to work harder. I found this article which says that you could install a filter, but to make sure you install it after the pressure tank to not overwork the pump. You might also consider a well booster pump.
support.boshart.com/can-sediment-filters-be-installed-between-the-pump-and-pressure-tank
@@Bootstrappin thanks for the quick reply. I'll definitely check this article out. Yea Ive been doing some reading on articles related to the situation I have going on, there isn't any with the exact situation but there's a few with similar
Just want to verify something. Is the water supply to the filtration system directly from the city line and does it flow into your hot water heater and then to the rest of the house?
Tthanks
That's correct, you want to put it first in line before the city supply hits anything else, that way you'll get filtered water into the heater.
18:40 You should use a grease pen.
I have a tankless water system and I live in Florida. My plumber is suggesting that we install a system to keep the sediment out. He said he would install it on the outside of the house at the shut off valve. Your video shows the filter inside the house. Can this system be set up outside of the house? I can't seem to find any video that shows the system outside the house.
I don't see why not - it's a sealed system so it's probably fine. I assume the plumber wants to put it outside because it's easier/cheaper. If there are no freezing temperatures where you live, that shouldn't pose a problem. Personally, I wouldn't want to have to look at it.
@@Bootstrappin Florida doesn't have basements and most places don't have unfinished spaces indoors. These types of devices are typically installed outside or inside the garage if you are lucky to have the main line come into the house from there.
@@ns7w386 ah thanks, that explains it.
Hard water doesn't come from the pipes so you should have left the softener hooked up and use propress, faster and don't have to worry about water in the pipes
Why. Not. Sharkbite fittings?
I wouldn't trust them for a permanent install. I've seen solder joints last over 60 years, don't know if the same can be said for Sharkbite, since they've only been around for 15 years. They are also very expensive compared to regular copper fittings. That said, I have used them in the past, and they made plumbing very easy.
Why do you need a bypass valve/pipe?
Because the filters need to be replaced every so often. Without one, you'd have to turn off the water supply valve to the whole house, instead of just selectively. It's also useful insofar as when you are doing maintenance, you won't lose your supply of water to the house.
How did you settle on iSpring as the choice?
Combination of good reviews, price, and that they're a US-based company.
Good thing I think i can duplicate this system for waste vegetable oil!? Thanks.
I don't know anything about this, but sounds cool! Are you making bio diesel?
@@Bootstrappin no not messing around with bio fuel just simply filtering veg oil the same as water to around 5 micron and running 100% in diesel motor. So far its running well and as normal.
@@ForPropertyInvestors that's awesome
How did you get the city to pay for your pipes?
What do you mean?
Why this style vs a one tank carbon
Preference of level of water filtration, this two stage will filter out sediments, then chlorine.
How much less expensive would this have been using pex?
I'm not sure that it would be. If you don't have PEX tools - crimper, cutter, go-no-go gauge, that'll probably run about $100 in just tools. The PEX pipe itself would certainly be cheaper, but then if you were to install pressure gauges, you'd have to get weird with copper to PEX converter fittings because to my knowledge there's no straightforward to install those on PEX (with the exception of Sharkbite pressure gauges if you want to go that route). You might eke out a little savings from the pipes themselves, but we're not dealing with very long copper runs here, so the savings wouldn't be that substantial. I'd just pick whichever style you are most comfortable with -- PEX is probably easier/less risky to work with for a first time job.
Copper is 100 percent more reliable and the shelf life is almost infinite. I stick with it!
Dude sounds just like POST10 channel guy. Right?
Why didn’t you just use pex?
The house is already plumbed with copper, so I stuck to that. I also think that copper is a healthier option and longer lasting.
So how did quitting your day job go and doing CZcams full time work out for ya
It didn't take off as I had planned, so while I do enjoy making videos, it's less of a calling and more of a hobby. I'm currently travelling and plotting my next move in life.
10 to 15 wraps of Teflon and sealant. Oof.
You heard the part about avoiding doing it again, right? You'd have to undo a significant amount of plumbing to redo a leaky joint. Hence, ample Teflon and sealant, which is a fairly common combo.
@@Bootstrappin
I did, but "more sealant" isn't the way. The standard with tape is 3 to 5 wraps. You're looking to lubricate the contact points and fill very small gaps at the root of threads and imperfections. The video didn't look like 10 wraps, but its hard to be sure as the video seemed sped up at times. Maybe you meant 10-15 inches of tape?
Sealant has its champions, especially for metal to metal connections, but I've never heard of tape+sealant, except maybe in a last ditch field repair context.
The difficulty of repair is a design problem, albeit a common one. Add a couple of slip Union fittings or shark bites. If you got the threaded joints tight enough, you're probably fine. Here's hoping.
@@Bootstrappin Don’t want to sound so negative, as I thought the video was great, and lots of good tips and advice, but for at least some brands they say not to use sealant on the joint to the filter housing. Good for metal-to-metal, not to plastic, may damage it. Also I’ve only heard 4-6 full wraps PTFE tape in plumbing videos I’ve seen, but I’m still learning.
Did I hear 15 wraps of Teflon tape???? That's insanely waaaay too much . 4- 5 wraps tops on 1"
Yeah, you did lol. You're probably right though, but at least there haven't been any leaks.
Why so many valves hahahha
What's so funny? I explain it in the video. Two on each end to isolate the filter for maintenance - such as changing filters, and the third one up top to bypass the filter so you can still supply water to the house even if you're performing maintenance.
That thread sealant for potable water 😂 i only use it for drainage and a different type for gas but still you did a clean job
Other than it being against code to modify electrical boxes, I'd think that works pretty well. Saves money too
How is it against code?
Get a pro press and no worries of water
Why can't you just do a single line in, single line out??
You can if you want, I just chose to have the bypass because it allows the rest of the house to continue having water while I'm doing maintenance, such as replacing the filters. It also allows a quick test to see how much pressure is being lost at the filters - indicating that a filter change is needed.
👍👍 can you please give me your email.thanks
It's in my about section