Under floor heating wiring explained
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- čas přidán 4. 12. 2021
- #wiring #ufh #howto
In this video I show you how to wire wet under floor heating controls on a system that has 3 zones. This system has one radiator zone and two separate underfloor heating zones, each on a separate manifold.
This kind of setup does not require dedicated underfloor heating wiring centres or actuators on UFH manifolds.
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On is normally closed and off is normally open. It is the other way around actually but still the best video online!
Nicely and clearly explained in a very simple manner. Well done. Thank you.
So glad to see you use your earth wires as earths not as a signal wire. The earths protect the cables if they get chopped ect they cause the circuit to trip the breaker. So many poorly installed heating controls use the earth not as intended. Great explanation as usual.
Peter just want to say thank you. Great job!
Great channel. You describe what’s going in really clearly and you make it clear what wire does what, brilliant.
Thank you very much!
Great video. Thank you for all your info!
An amazing and educational video. Thanks Peter.
Very clear and concise. Best explanation I have seen
Great explanation 👌 no one can beat you
Wow. So precise and educational
Great video, thanks! 2 Quick questions if I may, is there any need for relays to switch the pump on and off? Also, do I need a specific type of mixing valve to cater for ASHP output of 40-50degC?
Very informative video keep them coming 👍
thanks
Really great video.
Great video, very clear. I have just installed UFH, 5 loop single zone in kitchen/diner area. Same set-up described on this video.
Quick question: I have been told that the PCB on my heat pump control unit cannot supply an additional pump die to power limits.
Is it ok to power the pump and temperature controllers from a seperate fuse spur on same circuit? Reason for question is that the call for heat signal is being fed back to the PCB on my heat pump controller
Great video. I’m using a pretty similar system but only have a live neutral and earth (2 core and earth) connection available at the boiler and not a switched live terminal. Any tips on connection for that?
I have been trawling the internet trying to find someone who makes this simple but also goes into a decent amount of detail! Awesome stuff. Thank you! :)
Where's the accent from btw?
So much info thank you. So if I got it right. With a 240v switch on brown from controller By simply linking orange & grey it will give u volt free switching.
(I’ve watch a lot of ur videos today. 😄🥰😂)
Great video !!!
thank you mate
Would you also explain how a y mid position 3 port valve wiring works?
same here - many thanks.
Is clever the way you mentioned that the brown from the controller turns the pump on and not the orange obviously because is messed all up
So it helps avoiding using of relays ?
Thanks
Top quality!
Great video , are you able to show/ tell how the wires connected to the boiler from the Wiring center please? How do I identify the switched terminals on the boiler (PCB)? Thank you
Brilliant as always, just one thing I can't get my head around, as the motorised valves turn on the pump I assume if you have a conventional system boiler you can't control the "pump overrun" to remove excess heat in the boiler? Is this not a problem, if it is is there a way round it? Many thanks
Hi.
I'd like to wire my Glow-worm Energy combi using this method. I have regural radiators upstairs (zone 1) and currently fitting UFH downstairs (zone 2). I plan to use two zone valves in the way you did this. I also have tado smart controller which is able to modulate my boiler via bus. My question is how to wire this bus connection through wiring box?
Hey where does the black cable coming out of the motorised zone Valve connect into? I noticed it's like 2m or so long cable. Does it matter if my underfloor heating manifold is downstairs and my boiler is upstairs?
Great video. Questions: If you have an UFH manifold under a heat only boiler, and the main system pump and zone valves are up in the roof with the cylinder, how would you wire you pump? Does the main pump need to come on when only the UFH is on? Thanks.
Beautiful video, thank you. My question is where is the manifold pump cable of the studio 2 (manifold)? I didnt see you mentioning it or have i completely missed it.
It’s there, connected to zone valve number 2
I would come to work for free with you anywhere you are to learn more. A customer of mine asked to do some UFH and I have only always done rads so far. How can I start? Any corse or just watching these videos maybe enough?
Hello my boiler viessmann have 2 wires to operate were i need to conect rhe wire coming from the wiring centre please
Very informative video! Do the same wiring systems apply for low voltage switching? Or would this require a different approach? Thanks
Completely different story with low voltage switching and wiring centres
very nice video. so the motorized valve and the pump are switched by the thermostat at the same time?
Correct
Amazing videos and
thanks for watching
great description my question is i am adding a extra pump to my nest s plan zone valve to increase circulation and get more heat to radiators, you say connect brown wires from zone valve to brown wire on pump thats fine, now do i connect neutral and earth from pump to neutral and earth on terminal centre so when the zone valve opens it swithes on the additional pump
thank you if you can help
you will need hydraulic separation if you are adding another circulator - low loss header or CCT
Are you using the boiler pump to circulate water to the central heating? And if that is the case does the central heating thermostat cable on grey send switched live to the brown on central heating zone valve, sending live through the valve grey to orange on the zone valve. The orange powering on the boiler and the boilers pump? Thanks.
Yes
In Denmark it is illegal not to have aktuators allowing the temperature in each room to be adjustable.
My heat pump is running based on a heat curve and outside temperatur and I set all my thermostats to fully open. My aktuators are all fully open. Is this as good as not having zoning?
Can I remove the manifold pump while still having aktuators on my Roth manifold?
I hope you can help. I cant seem to find an expert in Denmark.
Hi mate, just a quick question please. When we connect pumps to brown switch live; wouldn't the pump start well before the zone valve is fully opened up and chance of pump running dry etc?
The pump will run dry for few seconds. Not sure the longevity or implications for the pump.
Great video. I'm currently looking at install of an S plan with CH Zone, HW Zone and single UFH zone off a vaillant combi. The only question I have is that this means in a situation where the UFH TRV does not need any hot water (UFH is running at correct temp) and is closed and the HW is off and the CH ZV is off (My CH will come on later in the morning) BUT the UFH thermostat IS demanding heat the boiler pump may well run which will force flow either through the internal boiler Auto by pass or an external fitted auto bypass. It seems from waht I have read that this is OK? I thought the bypass was kind of for 'emergencies only' in case of some type of failure but here it may be used much more frequently. Can you advise on what bypass pressure should be set at please or how I can figure it out?
Did you figure this out ?
How would this work using a y plan. Manafold has no separate pump. All controled by s plan???
Sorry, controlling 2 zones.
Very helpful, thanks.
Is it possible to just use 2 zone valves on this system for UFH and just an open loop for central heating?
no, radiators would be always on, even when not needed. You could run it all open loop with no zone valves if it was low temp. However, as you can see the boiler is a non-condensing DT10 appliance with DT50 radiators.
If you swapped radiators for ones that are sized to the same flow temp and flow rate as UFH you could run it all open loop.
Heat loss of that place was enormous though, and without major insulation upgrades, it simply is not possible.
@@UrbanPlumbers
Thanks for quick response!
Hapoy new year!
hi, what is your opinion about self balanced actuator? is there a model you recommend?
They are a solution to a problem that shouldn’t exist. Pointless if you know what you are doing.
What is the make of that wiring centre please? It has plenty of terminals.
Salus
What are the actuators? In this case we don't have a programmer because we don't need a timer to turn the heating on and off, we just want the boiler to come on upond room thermostat demand (that you call controller) right?
The actuators normally go on the underfloor heating manifold and are switched on and off with the matching zone thermostat(on a single manifold multi zone underfloor heating system). So that only the zone calling for heat gets heat.
What about hot water. Regardless that works with underfloor heating it is still a combi so it has its own wiring inside for the diverter valve to the plate heat exchanger right? Priority to hot water right?
Yes correct
Nifty idea. Pity we don’t see this on commercial systems. Thanks for posting.
Did you have your brown and grey back to front when discussing the wiring in the wiring centre? I thought that grey from the Programmer's was the switched live back to the wiring centre?
Edit: ignore me, I think I was confused
Grey from the programmer is switched live to the wiring centre with a brown sleeve. Grey from the zone valve is permanent live from zone valves.
Did I say something different on the video?
@@UrbanPlumbers I don't think so, I think I jumped the gun and commented before I finished watching, and I'd got myself confused.... This is a great video by the way, nice and simple install, well explained.
@@dorsetengineering you got me worried for a second. It is easy to say something wrong in this kind of videos. Thanks for watching !
@@UrbanPlumbers thanks for taking the time to make these videos, they're really helpful. What's your preference for manufacturers of zone valves?
Always a pleasure, wish I had the bottle to go self employed
Thanks, SE is not for everyone! It only gives you a false sense of freedom. In reality, SE guys make far, far less per hour than employed. I would love to be employed, but sadly I am unemployable. Cant keep my mouths shut.
@@UrbanPlumbers You’d think that reason alone (candidness/honesty) would have you fully booked up for jobs for the next 3 years at least.
@@UrbanPlumbers well said ..I'm exactly the same as you..can't keep my mouth shut and I won't listen to idiots either 🤣👌
Hi do you provide training aswell. If yes where is your training centre.
No I do not do training mate
Normally open shoud mean open contact in electrician world meaning switch is in the off position as far as I can read on Internet. Normally closed should mean closed contacts so in other words means that the switch makes so it is on. Can you confirm? Looks like you said the opposite if I don't go wrong. Thanks advance for your reply?
Yeah, that’s what I thought as well
Normally (I.e. default position with no power) in electrical terms means the contacts are open (so switch is off and no current can flow). In plumbing terms, normally open means the valve is open so open to flow. So they are opposite.
Doesn't this way of wiring turn the pump on before the zone valve is open? If the zone valve fails to open the pump will run regardless?
It doesn’t matter. There is circulation through the manifold anyway
@@UrbanPlumbers I was thinking the same issue but I guess in my system multi-zone S plan, the main pump serves multiple zones so in that case should be wired to the oranges? so at least one zone valve is open before the pump can run. Thanks for the excellent video.
I think it’s easy to get confused with electrics and the terminology of ‘normally open’ (which means no current flow) and normally closed (which means there is a current flow) whereas for a plumber if something is open there is flow and if closed there isn’t. Great explanation by the way - well done.😀👍
Talking about reliability and I agree you solution reduces the nodes of failure - the two port valves (x 3) are still a factor. In your experience are Honeywell ported valves getting less robust/reliable (compared to yesteryear)? My home system with a mid port 3 way the initially fitted valve ran perfectly for 17 years, then the head unit failed (the synchro motor was fine), new head unit fitted complete onto the old valve (which was free to move between finger and thumb) - then blow me 3 years later the synchro motor in the ‘new head’ unit fails (valve free to move between finger and thumb) - then 2 years later the head unit failed again (and the original valve is still free to move). All genuine Honeywell parts. I lost patience this time and replaced the whole f’n thing (genuine Honeywell again) as the cost difference is small - apart from the pain of draining down and venting.
yes, common knowledge these days that Honeywell is not very reliable. Drayton seems to be the preferred choice of many installers these days.
Amazing.. do you like to make a small schematic...
nahh - it is just an S plan really. You need to be able to do it without any schematics.
I love peter
Peter says he loves you too
Hi that video is very helpful could u please axplain where do boiler L E N connecter in wiring center
I don’t remember now!
The only part I don't understand, which is why I came here, is that the UFH pump starts pumping before the 2-port opens with this set-up. Ideally, you'd have a 2-port with two separate micro-switches. This set-up runs the risk that the 2-port fails and the pump keeps trying to pump.
The pump will still circulate around the ufh loops so nothing will happen
@@UrbanPlumbers Thanks. I didn't realise how the UFH water circuit worked.
For which particular reason that the owner of this house wants one manifold for each room?
Easier and cheaper to control 2 areas on 2 separate zones without having to use UFH wiring centres and actuators
When are we going to see your jazz guitar skills?
20k subs
@@UrbanPlumbers 😂
@@UrbanPlumbers It won’t be long!
You said it all back to front lol
Normally open means no connection ! OFF, open contacts !!
Normally closed means closed connection, ON !
Normally Open is usually for ON as it is off in resting position, normally closed is off as it is open when they system is on. All correct
@@UrbanPlumbers Unfortunately we will have to disagree,
Normally open - Is a contact that does not flow current in its normal state. Energizing it and switching it on will close the contact, causing it to allow current flow. Normally closed - Is a contact that flows current in its normal state.
From the bible!!
Normally open circuit :)
@@UrbanPlumbers Great channel btw
Great content :)
Thank you
Clearly don't like electricians
I love them, really. Especially confused ones :)
Hello my friend any advice wich wet undefloor heating brand to choose and any advice how to connect hive thermostat system to underfloor heati ng
Ground floor wet heating
And first floor radiators
Thanks for help