any mention of the gap at bottom depending on the gradient of the ground youre on? stepping down is hard enough to work out (say over 20m and the drop may not be consistent) but doable but say you want to follow the gradient as much as possible (undulate) with stepping down and ideally without cutting the sheets...then how do you work that out?
Depending on where you're from and your manufacturer, Stratco usually cuts the length of the sheets for you to cater for that drop up to 2100mm height. You can also use aluminum plinths that are 150mm high with max two stacks to assist. You just have to make the posts longer to match. Alternatively, cut the sheets in the angle of the drop so it would level at 1800mm height consistency.
No reciprocating saw? No tech screwing the panels together or in situ? I could push my way through that fence, it'd make a bit of noise, but it wouldn't stop a burgler for a second.
The higher mpa concrete rating the better that way for windy areas you should be fine.I also screw the bottom rail to the post and put screws top and bottom on actually both sides.
@@soapybee4471 thanks, the colourbond fence I purchased came with 3 meter posts, they told me they don't make 2.7's anymore. I had to cut 200mm off or dig 750mm holes.
Rule of thumb for post holes is 1/3 the length of the post has to be buried in the ground..... So.... if you are building an 1800 high fence..... then you need 2400 mm fence posts and holes approx 700 mm deep. That way you have a bit of room for setting your posts at the right height. Post length 2400 mm .... divide by 3...... 600 mm in the ground..... 1800 mm fence height. Whatever your fence height is divide it by 2 then multiply by 3 to work out the length of the fence posts..... a 3 metre high fence ideally needs 4.5 metre long fence posts etc. You don't rapid set mixed concrete or bags of pre mix.... that is just an expensive way of buying concrete... Go to a landscape yard and buy half a metre of concrete mix and a 2 bags of cement...... the ratio is 3.2.1 or 4.2.1 If it is not already mixed... then the ratio for concrete is 3 or 4 shovels of gravel, 2 shovels of sand and 1 shovel of cement etc. Mix it up dry in a barrow... Get a post hole borer.... dig your holes the right depth.... wet the holes a bit with a hose. Throw some dry mix into the bottom third of the hole... Tamp it down.... Insert your post...... Make sure it is at the right height..... roughly hold the post plumb(vertical) ..... level is horizontal.... plumb is vertical or upright..... a lot of these blokes don't appear to know the difference. Add some more dry mix and tamp it down hard around the post.... Check the height.... check the post for plumb on two sides .. so you check the front and a side face of the post. That is all you really need to do.... but you can spray a bit of water into the top of the hole to help the dry mix go off..... Usually, the moisture in the ground will set the concrete off overnight. My father was a master builder.. I was his labour from an early age... then spent 40 years in the construction industry..... Ten of those years was as a self employed commercial landscaper and paver... We used build retaining walls and fences all the time.
@@thomask837 what did he just say ? Something about a something something ? lol - How did he figure you gotta have a lic to put 6 beams into a ground and 6 panels of tin into the frame ? l.o.l
I built all my fences in Melbourne with no permits but you do need a permit dependent on height/construction method. One boundary fence built by Jim's Fencing was a complete disaster as I discovered years later- they had backfilled some holes with soil, so the fence started to lean.If I had kept the receipt, I would have taken the builder to court- lesson learnt, watch the actual build and pouring of the concrete.
@@anastasios3006 I want to do the same. It is usually easy to install the fence and when you install it by yourself, most of us will make sure it is installed properly. We certainly dont want to pay a good money to some a "professional", who but just does a shitty and worse job.
Its hilarious when people without a clue pretend to be an expert. Colorbond is a registered trademark of Bluescope. It was Colorbond no U back when it was Lysaghts. Colorbond no U when Lysaghts became BHP Coated Products. Now Colorbond no U since when it became Bluescope.
Very helpful thank you
Thanks! Very helpful!
Great video and keep it up
Thank you so much ❤️
any mention of the gap at bottom depending on the gradient of the ground youre on? stepping down is hard enough to work out (say over 20m and the drop may not be consistent) but doable but say you want to follow the gradient as much as possible (undulate) with stepping down and ideally without cutting the sheets...then how do you work that out?
Depending on where you're from and your manufacturer, Stratco usually cuts the length of the sheets for you to cater for that drop up to 2100mm height. You can also use aluminum plinths that are 150mm high with max two stacks to assist. You just have to make the posts longer to match. Alternatively, cut the sheets in the angle of the drop so it would level at 1800mm height consistency.
I want to know how your posts are just sitting there level with out any bracing?
No reciprocating saw? No tech screwing the panels together or in situ? I could push my way through that fence, it'd make a bit of noise, but it wouldn't stop a burgler for a second.
Thanks
Can you show how to do the work on the ground like the string line etc before you put the posts in please
The higher mpa concrete rating the better that way for windy areas you should be fine.I also screw the bottom rail to the post and put screws top and bottom on actually both sides.
Also has to be tight fitting makes all the difference an insure to fill the channel in the posts
How deep do you dig the holes and how much post goes in the ground?
600mm
@@soapybee4471 thanks, the colourbond fence I purchased came with 3 meter posts, they told me they don't make 2.7's anymore. I had to cut 200mm off or dig 750mm holes.
@@seanspcpower Bunnings today had 2.7 and 3.0 meter posts. That guy makes putting in the panels so easy.
Rule of thumb for post holes is 1/3 the length of the post has to be buried in the ground..... So.... if you are building an 1800 high fence..... then you need 2400 mm fence posts and holes approx 700 mm deep. That way you have a bit of room for setting your posts at the right height.
Post length 2400 mm .... divide by 3...... 600 mm in the ground..... 1800 mm fence height.
Whatever your fence height is divide it by 2 then multiply by 3 to work out the length of the fence posts..... a 3 metre high fence ideally needs 4.5 metre long fence posts etc.
You don't rapid set mixed concrete or bags of pre mix.... that is just an expensive way of buying concrete... Go to a landscape yard and buy half a metre of concrete mix and a 2 bags of cement...... the ratio is 3.2.1 or 4.2.1
If it is not already mixed... then the ratio for concrete is 3 or 4 shovels of gravel, 2 shovels of sand and 1 shovel of cement etc. Mix it up dry in a barrow...
Get a post hole borer.... dig your holes the right depth.... wet the holes a bit with a hose. Throw some dry mix into the bottom third of the hole... Tamp it down.... Insert your post...... Make sure it is at the right height..... roughly hold the post plumb(vertical) ..... level is horizontal.... plumb is vertical or upright..... a lot of these blokes don't appear to know the difference.
Add some more dry mix and tamp it down hard around the post.... Check the height.... check the post for plumb on two sides .. so you check the front and a side face of the post.
That is all you really need to do.... but you can spray a bit of water into the top of the hole to help the dry mix go off..... Usually, the moisture in the ground will set the concrete off overnight.
My father was a master builder.. I was his labour from an early age... then spent 40 years in the construction industry..... Ten of those years was as a self employed commercial landscaper and paver... We used build retaining walls and fences all the time.
It looks very easy to install, but I would like to have your contact details for you to do the job.
good vid, but use a 2 mtr spirit level , not a 500ml one
it seems metal fencing needs to be installed by someone with a metal fabrication, carpentry or builder's licence in NSW....damn...
What the fu...?
@@thomask837 what did he just say ? Something about a something something ? lol - How did he figure you gotta have a lic to put 6 beams into a ground and 6 panels of tin into the frame ? l.o.l
I built all my fences in Melbourne with no permits but you do need a permit dependent on height/construction method. One boundary fence built by Jim's Fencing was a complete disaster as I discovered years later- they had backfilled some holes with soil, so the fence started to lean.If I had kept the receipt, I would have taken the builder to court- lesson learnt, watch the actual build and pouring of the concrete.
No u don't..maybe if it's over 6ft
@@anastasios3006 I want to do the same. It is usually easy to install the fence and when you install it by yourself, most of us will make sure it is installed properly. We certainly dont want to pay a good money to some a "professional", who but just does a shitty and worse job.
you spelled colour wrong. its colour not 'color'
Its hilarious when people without a clue pretend to be an expert. Colorbond is a registered trademark of Bluescope. It was Colorbond no U back when it was Lysaghts. Colorbond no U when Lysaghts became BHP Coated Products. Now Colorbond no U since when it became Bluescope.
@@amazer39 thats the point ya turd. they spelt colour wrong, its colour, not color. only morons and yanks spell it wrong like that.
And the Yanks with phonetic spelling reckon color is just purfict 🦘✌️
You spelt 'spelt' wrong.