I just finished my basement and at the stairwell point. Thank you for the video of this build from the start, I feel confident now. Your staircase looks great. I'm hoping to duplicate it down to the spindles, shadow box molding on the walls, to the carpet. It looks fantastic! Expecting lot's of trips into the garage. :)
Good catch. I must have missed that during editing. Upon re-watching the video I think my "Swirls" wound up 1/2" lower than I anticipated. Let me explain: Actual distance from top of wall to bottom of handrail = 31" Add 1.5" to account for the amount of rod that will be hidden in the handrail. So 32.5" will be the length of rod. If there are no designs on the rod, it's simple at this point. But trying to center those swirls is a bit more involved and I kept saying one thing and writing another. Note at 27:56 I start taking measurements to figure out which was my longer side in order to determine which was the top. Notice I say 8 inches but for whatever reason I put text on screen of 8.5. And to make matters worse I do the subtraction wrong as you noted, but that is an irrelevant measurement anyway. What I should have said was 8.0 - 1.5 = 6.5. What does that 6.5" represent? It will be the visible part of the "upper" portion of the rod (from the bottom of the handrail to the top of the upper swirl..... At that point I would have realized my visible part of the "lower" portion of the rod (from the bottom of the lower swirl to the top of the slant wall) was only 6" and therefore I wasn't indeed going to be dead center. And in reality I now believe that is exactly what happened. I am going to measure tonight when I get home. Chances are all my rods are 1/2" too low, which luckily hasn't caught my eye yet! LOL So... 1. Sorry for the confusion, 2. Thank you so much for watching and pointing this out, 3. If you overlook my 1st grade math error, I hope the gist of the video was still helpful.
@@DieselMike thanks for the reply. And with the pattern being at a 40° angle it is not noticeable to anyone other than the installer even if not dead center. I have a flat landing so I want to try to get center and I was thinking the extra half-inch may have been if you were taking into account any play in the bottom hole but if I recall you pushed all the way to the top and then put the epoxy to hold it so you never utilized the extra drop in the bottom….Yes, very helpful. I have my layout and waiting for delivery. Thanks.
@@davidmarino9009 So, I measured and sure enough, they are low by about 3/4" (nothing that catches the eye). But you are right in that even though I shoved them "all the way up", the bottom part is still somewhat in the hole. My advice: Measure, measure and measure again. And then still cut a little long. If you can't get them in the bottom hole, you can always shave off a little more. And one last thing. I did not use epoxy. I'm sure you saw that method in other videos, but I'm the one who locked the bottom of the rod in the hole by wedging a small screw in the hole. Try my way first as it's not permanent. If you are 100% satisfied with the result, you can perma-hold it later on with epoxy and then back the screw out. Good luck. Feel free to post how you make out.
@@DieselMike got it. Thanks for the follow up. Yes, the screw to secure (instead of epoxy) is a great idea especially if styles change and you ever want to swap out. Last comment on a nuance that others may be getting tripped up on … I kept getting slightly different measurements on horizontal spacing (when dividing the total width by the balusters plus 1 vs total width of space less width of total balusters used divided by balusters plus 1 (for spaces in between). this is due to the first measurement being off the wall and not off the center of a baluster. So your movement up of 1/4-1/2 inch is necessary if you are using center measurements for your first and last space to be equal distance to the others. I know you did it to for other reasons, (and no one would notice 1/4 inch on the first or spread out over the others) but a slight movement on first baluster equal to half the distance of a baluster is needed for the math to work on the horizontal lay out. On to the next project…
I can't imagine a knee wall would ever be finished with drywall. But even if it was you would have some kind of framing under the drywall (usually 2x4). Which means you would have to drill deep enough to get the baluster into the 2x4. To answer your second question, I went with 1 by appearance board as my finished cap. Usually comes in pine which is fine because I painted it. Of course you could use 1 by Oak, Maple, etc if you were going for a stained or natural finish.
Rob. You should view my video from when I opened up that wall to get a better understanding of what is under the finished product: czcams.com/video/5b8MVycOtRY/video.htmlsi=OvWUzqjIU7GBXhAf
Thanks. Currently there is no railing it was all ripped out and the wall is just finished with drywall. Im sure there is 2x4 framing underneath. I guess i debating ripping out the drywall and capping it or if i should just cap it over the drywall. I am kind of iffy with just drilling into the drywall and putting the spindles into the 2x4
I just finished my basement and at the stairwell point. Thank you for the video of this build from the start, I feel confident now. Your staircase looks great. I'm hoping to duplicate it down to the spindles, shadow box molding on the walls, to the carpet. It looks fantastic! Expecting lot's of trips into the garage. :)
Great job of explaining the drilling for the balusters. Came out perfect. Much applause 👏.
Glad the video was helpful. Thanks for commenting.
That’s a great trick with the two levels.
Great video!
Been doing alot of these as of lately for basment finishing...
You described it perfectly 💯
Appreciate you watching and commenting. Also gives me motivation to see my videos are helpful.
Great Video!! Very helpful!!
Thanks. Glad it helped.
looks great
Thanks much.
Great video and info!! Looks great as well!!
Looks great!!! Now its safe to say the basement is all done
I see that you added a second Handrail on the same side. Do you have a video on how you did that one?
28:12 8.5 - 6=2.5 not 1.5. Where did the extra inch go? Did you not cut off the nub first? Great video. Thank you for taking the time to post.
Good catch. I must have missed that during editing. Upon re-watching the video I think my "Swirls" wound up 1/2" lower than I anticipated. Let me explain:
Actual distance from top of wall to bottom of handrail = 31"
Add 1.5" to account for the amount of rod that will be hidden in the handrail. So 32.5" will be the length of rod.
If there are no designs on the rod, it's simple at this point. But trying to center those swirls is a bit more involved and I kept saying one thing and writing another. Note at 27:56 I start taking measurements to figure out which was my longer side in order to determine which was the top. Notice I say 8 inches but for whatever reason I put text on screen of 8.5. And to make matters worse I do the subtraction wrong as you noted, but that is an irrelevant measurement anyway. What I should have said was 8.0 - 1.5 = 6.5. What does that 6.5" represent? It will be the visible part of the "upper" portion of the rod (from the bottom of the handrail to the top of the upper swirl.....
At that point I would have realized my visible part of the "lower" portion of the rod (from the bottom of the lower swirl to the top of the slant wall) was only 6" and therefore I wasn't indeed going to be dead center.
And in reality I now believe that is exactly what happened. I am going to measure tonight when I get home. Chances are all my rods are 1/2" too low, which luckily hasn't caught my eye yet! LOL
So... 1. Sorry for the confusion, 2. Thank you so much for watching and pointing this out, 3. If you overlook my 1st grade math error, I hope the gist of the video was still helpful.
@@DieselMike thanks for the reply. And with the pattern being at a 40° angle it is not noticeable to anyone other than the installer even if not dead center. I have a flat landing so I want to try to get center and I was thinking the extra half-inch may have been if you were taking into account any play in the bottom hole but if I recall you pushed all the way to the top and then put the epoxy to hold it so you never utilized the extra drop in the bottom….Yes, very helpful. I have my layout and waiting for delivery. Thanks.
@@davidmarino9009 So, I measured and sure enough, they are low by about 3/4" (nothing that catches the eye). But you are right in that even though I shoved them "all the way up", the bottom part is still somewhat in the hole.
My advice: Measure, measure and measure again. And then still cut a little long. If you can't get them in the bottom hole, you can always shave off a little more.
And one last thing. I did not use epoxy. I'm sure you saw that method in other videos, but I'm the one who locked the bottom of the rod in the hole by wedging a small screw in the hole. Try my way first as it's not permanent. If you are 100% satisfied with the result, you can perma-hold it later on with epoxy and then back the screw out.
Good luck. Feel free to post how you make out.
@@DieselMike got it. Thanks for the follow up. Yes, the screw to secure (instead of epoxy) is a great idea especially if styles change and you ever want to swap out. Last comment on a nuance that others may be getting tripped up on … I kept getting slightly different measurements on horizontal spacing (when dividing the total width by the balusters plus 1 vs total width of space less width of total balusters used divided by balusters plus 1 (for spaces in between). this is due to the first measurement being off the wall and not off the center of a baluster. So your movement up of 1/4-1/2 inch is necessary if you are using center measurements for your first and last space to be equal distance to the others. I know you did it to for other reasons, (and no one would notice 1/4 inch on the first or spread out over the others) but a slight movement on first baluster equal to half the distance of a baluster is needed for the math to work on the horizontal lay out. On to the next project…
Is there any way to connect a wooden handrail to an iron newel? The handrail comes about 10 inches from the base of the newel?
Can balusters go right into drywall knee wall? What wood do you use to cap the knee wall where spindles go into
I can't imagine a knee wall would ever be finished with drywall. But even if it was you would have some kind of framing under the drywall (usually 2x4). Which means you would have to drill deep enough to get the baluster into the 2x4.
To answer your second question, I went with 1 by appearance board as my finished cap. Usually comes in pine which is fine because I painted it. Of course you could use 1 by Oak, Maple, etc if you were going for a stained or natural finish.
Rob. You should view my video from when I opened up that wall to get a better understanding of what is under the finished product:
czcams.com/video/5b8MVycOtRY/video.htmlsi=OvWUzqjIU7GBXhAf
Thanks. Currently there is no railing it was all ripped out and the wall is just finished with drywall. Im sure there is 2x4 framing underneath. I guess i debating ripping out the drywall and capping it or if i should just cap it over the drywall. I am kind of iffy with just drilling into the drywall and putting the spindles into the 2x4
@@user-cy5ht6pe6b Rip off the drywall and cap it the right way.
Most area codes require a continous handrail. Did not see that there in your vidro.