Jaguar XKR Front Shock Lower Bushing Replacement
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- J. Skatton's first humble contribution to the XK community on CZcams. The symptom was a occasional vibration on front of the car on speed around 90 km/h. Replacing the shock bushings on both sides fixed the issue. And yes, it is BUSHING, not a bush.
Here is the link to referred sam1174's video: • Jaguar XK8 Front Shock...
Sam has lots of other XK goods in his channel as well.
The black parts are from a ball joint assembly set, see www.bgstechnic.....
The Jag is MY2001 about 150000km on odometer.
Just wanted to thank BrickSkatton for this video. Had to change the bushes on my 2003 XK8 and would have been in a bind without the clever method shown in the video. Well done Sir!
This video has been a great help to me changing my lower bushes on my XKR 1999. I started to use a similar system to wind out the bushes but didn't have spanners to give me enough leverage. I finally had to resort to hamming them out with a 30mm socket. getting the new ones in again I used a 40mm socket on the receiving end and placed a small flat piece of metal across the otherside and put the whole thing in a large work bench vice which worked well then finally a length of metal tube to give myself more leverage on the winding lever...perfect! Thanks again and as you said lost of cursing and swearing for me too!
i REALLY LIKES THE WAY THIS GUY WORKS...SMOOTH
Nice job Mr. Skatton. Appreciated this. Just bought an XK8 that will require this job.
This is a fantastically useful guide but I cannot help thinking as I watch him wrench the bushing out of the bottom of the shock: please, someone, buy this man an impact gun for christmas.
excellent video, I'm just about to replace all 4 lower control arm bushings myself and sway bar linkages. This is what tyre shop says needed replacing, also a wheel bearing but I won't do that myself due to not having the tools or enough torque to replace even...I'm a little dubious that all of this is bad but we shall see. I'm in New Zealand and parts would have cost a fortune here (even if they sourced them in UK they would provide genuine parts I think and make me pay the privilege) so I sourced them myself...very cheap aftermarket identical parts from Rimmers in UK...less than half the genuine parts prices in general.
Hope your beer was as cool as the video 👌👍
Yes this is an excellent video and has given me guidance to do mine - Many Thanks
Nice video. I have a slight vibration and a thump driving over bumps on my S-type. I looked at the lower shock bushing, they look goods but feel real soft. So I think I will replace. Thanks for the useful video.
Nicely done video. 👍 On a different car I did the same style of BUSHING and the press tool was a thin wall sleeve so it slid over the rubber seal. Maybe a universal press tool set may have the 30mm one for the jag shock?
Thanks, and you are probably right. Jags can´t be that special ;)
Some have snap rings. Be sure to check and remove before pressing bushing out
5:15 is my favorite!!!!
on the upper A-arm bolt you torqued the head of the bolt not the nut which is not the correct way - - you hold the head and torque the nut which probably requires a deep socket to do. Before you try pressing a new bushing into place be sure to clean or emory cloth (light or fine grade to smooth it not scratch it up) the inside of the shock/strut til you're sure there are no burrs or edges that might bind including the surface and edges of the new bushing that bind it up. I found out the hard way that one edge of the new bushing I was installing had a slight nick on the edge and the more I pressed the more it dug in - - when it got within a quarter inch of where I needed it to be it seized itself in there and shy of having a hydraulic bearing press it wasn't going in any further. I had to reverse the process to press it back out which resulted with a ruined seal. Before I tried it again with a new bushing I paid very close attention to polishing edges with an emory cloth and run my finger around to feel for obstructions or deformities. As he showed you remove the 2 retainers that keep the rubber seal in place and by American ways of measuring you need a sleeve or socket with an OD (outside diameter) of 1 1/2 inches (or whatever that converts to in the metric system) to fit into the ID (inside diameter) of the hole the bushing is being pressed into. I weld and fabricate so I actually made a sleeve for the job so that the next pressing went like clock work and the reason I went to these great lengths is because I knew I was going to have to do the other side as well. Also rather than a threaded rod with nuts to squeeze the bushing in you can press it with a vise - - get the bushing engaged in the hole then put it in a bench vise using a single sleeve to push against it press the bushing in til its almost out the other side. Remember when you are using a second sleeve or socket you only have to clear the center section and the rubber seals as the metal outer part remains inside the hole and ends up being about an eighth inch inside the shock /strut end barrel on both sides so a 36 mm socket was good enough to clear even though they say you need a 41mm. A quick PS if you have a bench vise you can set the strut on the edge of the jaws and level the back end with wood to support it level with the vise then put a sleeve on the bushing that will fit the ID (inside diameter) of the hole then put a 1/4 inch piece of metal or thick washer on top and a couple of sharp whacks with a ballpeen hammer will knock the bushing out. I got very detailed in my description because although I've been a mechanic for 50 + years I wanted a first timer trying this to feel comfortable doing it as this was my first time being as I just got this 04 XKR with the CATS strut set up. I was originally just going to replace the upper shock/strut mount because it was completely shot but when I got it all apart the lower bushing was toast as well so I ordered a pair. If you still don't feel comfortable take the entire strut to a machine shop and have them do the pressing for you. Be sure to check both mounting ends of the assembly as 9 times out of 10 you may just as well replace the upper mount as well which I will warn you has serious dangers involved because you must compress the conical spring that carries the weight of the car - - there are videos for that as well but please look at several as I saw a couple that scared me because of the handling of the compressed spring that if something lets loose has a great deal of force behind it and can cause extremely serious injury so be aware and be safe
Thanks Gary, I have to confess that I didn't gave any thought which end to torque. And I do appreciate your comments about pressing. One learns little something every day 👍
@@BrickSkatton I've built street cars and race cars, worked on a race team, I weld, fabricate and build motors - - I actually made a sleeve to push the lower end bushing into place by splitting a piece of pipe then reducing its OD so it would fit inside the round end of the strut then cutting the excess off, butting it and welding it back together but I had torches and a mig welder already which a lot of guys just doing their own repairs don't have. I had just as much fun as you did trying to get those spring retainers back on the rubber seals. As for the upper mount when you use a spring compressor look for one that is a single hook rather than a double on at least one end because the XK springs are conical and reduce in diameter as you get to the lower end so a single hook end will engage and stay engaged better whereas the wider double hooks tend to pop one side off under tension which can be dangerous - - buy or use a quality tool because cutting corners on something that has that much spring pressure on it - - well lets just say if it breaks it could cause catastrophic injury to the person using the tool quite easily - - good work on your part. You get a more accurate torque figure on the nut as it turns on the threads whereas turning the bolt has the additional drag of the shaft of the bolt and anything that touches it or impedes it from turning as well as the tension of the threads. Trust me its way better to learn from someone else's experience than learning what you shouldn't have done the hard way as any mechanic who has years of experience will tell you - - I've had my failures that once learned I'll never repeat so no shortcuts and be safe. I know of a guy who raced on the Moto-X circuit with my son that was doing some minor stuff under his car in his driveway so rather than take the time to secure it with jack stands he simply went under the car while its was only on the jack. He was going to save a few minutes of time doing the work except that the jack failed and he lost the rest of his time on the planet - - you just never think it could happen to you until it does - - never short cut safety measures. Always take stock of what you are doing then imagine what could possibly go wrong and that way you'll be aware and alert to the possible consequences
Odd, on my 2010 xkr there are 4 nuts and when they are removed the shock still won't come down. The springs just stretch. So there are differences here. The other parts shown in the video are totally different. Is this in fact another xk8?
Hi there, mine is 2001 xkr x-100. Maybe yours is x-150? Cant think any other possibility. Thanks for passing by.
Surely all bolts should be torqued up with the suspension under normal pressure ie as it would sit on the ground 🤔
Cant really recall details but I think I tried to follow the instructions outlined by JTIS. Cheers!
Great video sir. One question, did you use new nuts on the lower shock and upper wishbone bolts?
Thanks, I used new nuts for the lower shock bolts as they are locknuts. But I reused upper wishbone nuts. Had to check my old SNG Barratt order to be sure ;)
@@BrickSkatton Great, I plan to use new nuts on my shocks too. Did you apply any Loctite threadlocker on the upper wishbone nuts at all?
I'll be changing my upper mounts out too as I can see they are quite worn now. I expect the shocks themselves however are fine. Mine are adaptive control like yours so pricey to replace. As with most things though, bushings and mounts tend to be the things that wear out first.
Hi, nope, I did not use any threadlock for the nuts. I suppose using some does no harm. And yes, I also do hope that my relationship with the adaptive shocks will be long and fruitfull.
@@BrickSkatton Cheers Brick. Yeah no real issue Re threadlock but I suppose a little gives a little more piece of mind. I may use a little medium (Blue) when I do my shock overhaul and mounts next week. Still think your video style is extra cool, especially with a beer. ;-)
@Brick One last question here sir.
Did you go to the upper values on the torque settings or somewhere in between? My torque wrenches are are +/- 4% rated so I'll need to be under by that amount from the highest value for the fulcrum pivot nut (132nm), to avoid over torquing. Just curious what worked for you best.
I Have a bit off wandering on my Jaguar S Type R. I once took it to a Jag mechanic who said its my foward bushings. Could the shock bushing be what he's refering to???? My next step was buying 2 front shock but that'll cost me 600$ for part alone
Frankly I don't think shock or shock bushing issues would cause steering wandering. I do not know what a forward bushing could mean in this case. I would steer my attention to steering linkage first if you don't mind the pun ;)
At around 6:30 remaining, you can see the lower A arm forward bushing pretty well at the frame end of the member with the “beam with large holes” looking part of the lower suspension. This comes out fairly easily as it is half of the lower “A” arm. The bushing is a bit clumsy to press out and especially in due to few points to lever against, but it can be done if you are careful and may need a helper or have a machine shop do the pressing part. The other half of the lower “A” arm has a bushing and the lower ball joint, and should be replaced also to really tighten up the steering. Buy the entire piece with the ball joint and bushing for around $75 per side aftermarket rather than trying to press bushings and ball joints for about the same money. Genuine Jag for this is around $800. These and the shock bushes are the “loaded” part of the front suspension and will dramatically improve your Jag’s handling. While there, the replacement of the upper “A” arm bushes and ball joint; and the sway bar links are relatively easy, as are the tie rod ends if they are loose. Don’t forget to properly replace the two thick and two thin spacers on the shaft of the upper “A” arms to maintain caster. See Gary’s Bible if in doubt. This entire job will be one of the most dramatic changes in your Jag’s handling, and is well worth it!
Where did you find the right bushings?
From SNG Barratt. And their XK8 Parts Catalogue is excellent ❤️
Thanks, greatly appreciated.
Link to XK8 Bible at czcams.com/video/NHSnl247XWs/video.html