your crankcase ventilation is not connected. There should be 2 hoses running from the valve cover to the carburetors, and 1 hose to your air filter housing. This is also the reason why your engine can leak oil, because there is no suction to keep the oil inside. and the high idle speed is also correct because you now have a large vacuum leak on both carburetors.
I’d agree with this. If you got your engine up to temperature and ran it for a good long while, you’d see the vapour. It could condense on the bonnet and drip down. Another thought whether your gasket on the crank case is sealed enough? I’ve switched to RR silicon gaskets, which seem to be happier than the cork ones.
I know oil leaks are very inconvenient, but as a motorcycle rider, it's the easiest way of having my bike disappear from underneath me, so hats off to you for trying to sort out this "little" problem.
Hi Matt, it's finally getting there ! Before going to the extent of changing the sump gasket, never an easy job with engine in situ on the V8. Check the crankcase ventilaton is all good and air tight. There's 3 points on the V8 that need to have good push fit rubber hoses, and a clean SU type fuel filter on the rear one. You'll get excess crank pressure build-up if not vented. The rear one is an angled brass take off, above the bellhousing. It should be rubber hose between it and the pipe on the back of the air cleaner box. The filter fits in that hose, low down near the block. Fit it the right way around to avoid sucking oil vapour into the air filter. The other two are a rubber hose between each rocker cover and the carburettor, and each pipe should have a flame trap in the middle. Missing, or poor sealed pipes wil cause poor running and excessive fuel consumption as the mixture will be all over the scale. Your instruments misreading is a simple fix. If more than one gauge is misreading, It's usually a failed voltage stabiliser. It's a small metal canister with Lucar spade terminals that is screwed on the circuit board behind the gauges. Those badges were originally Silk Screen Printed. Carefully sand it down to smooth, bare aluminium with the finest wet and dry paper and some soap as lubricant. Any competent print work, or maybe a local art college student should be able to reprint them. They were originally fitted above the stainless front wing strip if the holes have been filled. You'll need a couple of plastic insert cones per badge, or if you have broken fixing pins, double sided badge tape is the answer.
Happy Easter Mr. Matt. I spent many hours under my Saab yesterday and achieved precisely nothing. In fact I made it worse. Glad to see your progress is a little better..!
Great videos on the P6, just pulled one out of a hedge for the channel, nowhere near as nice as yours though and a lot less CC 😅 very handy videos though mate thank you !
I stopped up a trans-axle fluid leak at the half-shaft with a bottle of AT 205 polymer sealant, added 8 ounces to the oil, causes rubber gaskets and seals to swell slightly, and stops the leak internally without the shop time (And Money) If you use it read instructions carefully. Cheers
When you take of the sump to change the gasket check the mating surface of the sump with a straight edge. These steel sumps can bend between the bolt holes if its been over tightened and you will never seal it with a new gasket. When fitting new gasket torque it to spec dont guess it.
I remember that Top Gear segment where Jeremy tested an old Range Rover which averaged 9 mpg, so your car minus the 4 wheel drive, that must mean 12 mpg average and 8 mpg if u have fun
Have to agree I like the clear indicator lenses (says the man who is going to be replacing his with Gingercators) chrome strips on the side really give the car a nice look. A excellent video and wishing you and the family a Happy Easter.
From memory, the good quality cork sump gaskets had small ally pins in them so they did not squash too much, personally I'd use the best gasket you can get for a 4.6 and fit a nice breather, but this engine is not standard so use the best bits not the most period correct. I've seen them and owned them with su holey and even a twin choke Weber fitted but if I had half a chance it would have injection.
I've had many a V8 over the years and 15 to the gallon was reasonable ..But that was when fuel was much less expensive and therefor could be afforded.. To be honest I recon a 4.6 will be around 8- 10 these days. Hope you have deep pockets.
I should make the sump gasket replacement soon oil leaks only get worse Matt good update I drive a Jaguar XJS 4.0 Litre Straight 6 with a 4 speed ZF Automatic Transmission I average about 18 in town and and 24 to 26 on a highway yours might be quite a bit lower my XJS is a 1995 Convertible good luck with the sump best regards Andy Allen
That oil leak is a slight bummer , but rather easy to fix! But the P6 is getting better and better! Looking forward to the next video Matt! 👍🏻👍🏻🆙 like allways!!
How? The cds carbs atomize the fuel alot better! I had the edelbrock carb on mye v8. Tuned it with afr gauge. Installed the Stormbergs and the power and fuel consumption was exactly the same. The Stormbergs used less fuel at high altidude because of the constant depression system.
@@Atle-k2z the p38 4.6 had fuel injection and electronic ignition anyway, so if it's an easy enough fit/upgrade I may make for better easier to manage running, I'm not sure what any other differences it would make though, it was just a suggestion, the novelty of having carburettors can be good , but starting and smooth running can be tricky to perfect
Love the clear lenses. Red indicator lenses for the rear surely must be next. Breathers will probably be worth looking at for the oil leak. Keep up the good work!
THE P6B is a beautiful car. I will be interested to see how well it performs, once it is sorted out. I have seen a video where a gentleman used body filler to fill the back of stainless trim. Then it was filed smooth, and he used automotive double-sided mounting tape to stick the trim on. This eliminates the need to drill holes and reduces the future rust.
I have the same Allen keys.... a hateful set, they always fall out of the pack, particularly the smaller ones 🙄 I'd paint the fence with old engine oil, will last a lifetime. Just did my shed again with it for its 23rd birthday.😊👍🇮🇪
@furiousdriving Can't beat Wera or Wiha hex keys. I have some Bahco ones as well and I'm disappointed, they're not as good despite Bahco's reputation for good quality.
That sounds and moved fabulous… a mention as I did know folk with the V8 SDi (still on carbs with manual choke) start from cold a click “drive” and BOOM it’s off like a greyhound… 😮
I am perplexed why cars of a certain age don't have to have a MOT. They are the most likely to develop unsafe problems. I am glad that you are doing the decent thing with the Rover.
The idea is that classic car owners are more diligent, and know how to look after the car and what to look out for. For the majority, this is true, but there's always a few who see it as a way of not having to maintain the car, and don't care about their own or anybody elses safety. Personally, I think it's worth MOTing them still. It's always good to have someone else look over everything, and you can always prove the car was roadworthy should anything happen.
Well done Matt you should be very proud off yourself getting this car to where it is now 👌I do feel your pain with the fuel economy as my Subaru does 20 ish mph so probably shouldn’t complain 😅
I had a Morgan plus 8 with a 4.6 V8, I used to get around 20-25mpg depending on how I drove it, the P6 must be massively heavier than a Morgan so you’ll be lucky to get 20mpg!
Awesome video Matt well done. However next time please put 3-4 gallons of fuel in. Stop with micky mouse 1 gallon here, 1 gallon there. It’s a rover it needs to be treated to at least a £30-£40 worth of v-power. I’m a mechanic in Australia & I cannot stand it when I have to do any sort of work on a customers car & there is very little fuel in the tank. I will always run to the garage & bung in at least 15-20 litres so I can work with the engine running for some time.
Hey, Matt... I know the car is YOURS, to do with, as you please, BUT, I think you should keep the P6 as original as possible!! I'm all for upgrades, if they mean the car handles better & is more visible at night & allows YOU to see better, BUT I think I'd keep the overall look; ie. indicators & wheel trims, the car originally came with... Like I aay; that's just MY opinion...!!! Great to see the car back on the road, though, (albeit, with some "teething" issues!) 👍🙂
Have to ask Matt ? Loved your happy dance in last vid 😁 but do you have an Unhappy dance ? You would think a CZcamsr of your calibre and having many years of car misery would develop one for the many lack of happiness days in the future 😂😂, trying to be optimistic Matt but you just know they come regularly 👌🏻.
Make sure the sump is straight at the sealing surface. Years of tighthening the screws could have bent the sump surface. It is easily hammered back to a shape.
LO Matt.Sump gasket ? perhaps. Might need a sump pan. Saw Edd C have a similar issue with a Range Rover. Turned out a previous owner had used a pole on their spanner and horsed up the bolts and warped the pan. Worth a wee check. Coz if the pan is warped then it dizne matter how many gaskets ye put on it it will still leak and drive you cookoo. laters . Happy Easter
@@furiousdriving It's pretty routine to just check that the flange is still flat and straighten it out anyway. I'm sure your pan will be fine to reuse once it's confirmed straight.
I have several 'spot sprayers' by Titan Tools; they're a copy of the Sure Shot refillable not aerosol sprayers. They stand up indefinitely to brake cleaner and are brilliant at degreasing stuff for leak tracing. As others have said, a distorted sump flange is a common issue, I've straightened many over the years and welded up the cracks from the distortion and/or straightening process. If you can get a rubber type gasket, they typically seal much better (no gasket compounds!) than the cork type.
You need to plumb in the pcv system from the carbs to the valve covers and the breather from the rear of the crank case into the air cleaner, that'll help with the oil tightness. Plus, is it me, or does the ammeter never seem to show a charge? My old P6 3500S always showed a big + charge just after starting and then dropped back to just over the centre.
Matt, after you discovered that your car was leaking oil in the lay-by, an advert came on advertising the Flash Speedmop. Perhaps you need to take one of them in your P6B!
Are the SU's from the 3500? If so you will need different needles. Comments about vacuum leaks also relevant. Does the dizzy have a vacuum connection? I note at least 1 vac pipe sticking out of a carb. Air filters affect the mixture so at least try and get a couple of pancakes on them. A spell on a dyno would be the best idea.
Seem to remember that the construction and use regulations state that an indicator "flashes" between 60 and 120 a minute , your mixture will be weak as no air cleaner
I love your work but I can’t believe you’re driving the car song so much without the air cleaners on? Maybe buy two cheap pod filters if you don’t have the correct air boxes. Cheers Pat🇦🇺
You could always go for a 4.6 badge from a P38 Range Rover. Otherwise maybe somebody with a laser engraver can make something like the original in aluminium. Maybe try a company that does name plates
What brand of petrol station do you usually use? Just so I can buy some shares :P. Welcome to the world of fuel consumption, when there are 8 or more friends at the bar :) Does the sump have a cork gasket? Cause those are always shite. Regarding the badge: I had my Mamba Edition badge remade at an engraver that also engraves sports prices. Look for the smaller shops is my advice.
@@furiousdriving my wife has a little craft business and her suggestion was a new piece of aluminium, brush it and then get the wording printed out or cut out of vinyl. Only issue maybe the font
Nothing worse for a car than sitting around and not being used. Oil seals and gaskets dry out. Brakes seize up. And the corrosion sets in. Are you not running air filters?
Again, from memory, if you remove the instrument clear glazing cover (just a pull off finisher, a push on fitting for the clock and four self tappers) I think it’s located adjacent to those instruments. I may even have one in some shoebox in the garage from my P6 days thirty years ago but whether I could ever find it is another matter……..@@furiousdriving
your crankcase ventilation is not connected.
There should be 2 hoses running from the valve cover to the carburetors, and 1 hose to your air filter housing.
This is also the reason why your engine can leak oil, because there is no suction to keep the oil inside.
and the high idle speed is also correct because you now have a large vacuum leak on both carburetors.
I’d agree with this. If you got your engine up to temperature and ran it for a good long while, you’d see the vapour. It could condense on the bonnet and drip down.
Another thought whether your gasket on the crank case is sealed enough? I’ve switched to RR silicon gaskets, which seem to be happier than the cork ones.
100% if it’s leaking the breathing isn’t set up correctly.
I know oil leaks are very inconvenient, but as a motorcycle rider, it's the easiest way of having my bike disappear from underneath me, so hats off to you for trying to sort out this "little" problem.
Hi Matt, it's finally getting there ! Before going to the extent of changing the sump gasket, never an easy job with engine in situ on the V8. Check the crankcase ventilaton is all good and air tight. There's 3 points on the V8 that need to have good push fit rubber hoses, and a clean SU type fuel filter on the rear one. You'll get excess crank pressure build-up if not vented. The rear one is an angled brass take off, above the bellhousing. It should be rubber hose between it and the pipe on the back of the air cleaner box. The filter fits in that hose, low down near the block. Fit it the right way around to avoid sucking oil vapour into the air filter. The other two are a rubber hose between each rocker cover and the carburettor, and each pipe should have a flame trap in the middle. Missing, or poor sealed pipes wil cause poor running and excessive fuel consumption as the mixture will be all over the scale. Your instruments misreading is a simple fix. If more than one gauge is misreading, It's usually a failed voltage stabiliser. It's a small metal canister with Lucar spade terminals that is screwed on the circuit board behind the gauges. Those badges were originally Silk Screen Printed. Carefully sand it down to smooth, bare aluminium with the finest wet and dry paper and some soap as lubricant. Any competent print work, or maybe a local art college student should be able to reprint them. They were originally fitted above the stainless front wing strip if the holes have been filled. You'll need a couple of plastic insert cones per badge, or if you have broken fixing pins, double sided badge tape is the answer.
You really need to get some air filters as constant velocity carbs like SUs don't run well with open mouths.
Happy Easter Mr. Matt. I spent many hours under my Saab yesterday and achieved precisely nothing. In fact I made it worse. Glad to see your progress is a little better..!
Great videos on the P6, just pulled one out of a hedge for the channel, nowhere near as nice as yours though and a lot less CC 😅 very handy videos though mate thank you !
This was a lot less nice when I first got it as well - 15 years in a damp garage did it no favours! There's time and hope for yours too
I stopped up a trans-axle fluid leak at the half-shaft with a bottle of AT 205 polymer sealant, added 8 ounces to the oil, causes rubber gaskets and seals to swell slightly, and stops the leak internally without the shop time (And Money) If you use it read instructions carefully. Cheers
Just me probably but I can’t stand LED’s at all, especially on old cars 😢
Looking well though, great to see it finally on the road!
When you take of the sump to change the gasket check the mating surface of the sump with a straight edge. These steel sumps can bend between the bolt holes if its been over tightened and you will never seal it with a new gasket. When fitting new gasket torque it to spec dont guess it.
I remember that Top Gear segment where Jeremy tested an old Range Rover which averaged 9 mpg, so your car minus the 4 wheel drive, that must mean 12 mpg average and 8 mpg if u have fun
Other than the red on the wheels, I think that it looks absolutely AMAZING Matt!
The Rover P6 is looking, and running great now, oil leak aside.
Great video as always Matt, I do like the Rovers you have on your fleet❤.
Have to agree I like the clear indicator lenses (says the man who is going to be replacing his with Gingercators) chrome strips on the side really give the car a nice look.
A excellent video and wishing you and the family a Happy Easter.
If it was an E36 id be searching ebay for proper gingercators!
From memory, the good quality cork sump gaskets had small ally pins in them so they did not squash too much, personally I'd use the best gasket you can get for a 4.6 and fit a nice breather, but this engine is not standard so use the best bits not the most period correct. I've seen them and owned them with su holey and even a twin choke Weber fitted but if I had half a chance it would have injection.
I've had many a V8 over the years and 15 to the gallon was reasonable ..But that was when fuel was much less expensive and therefor could be afforded.. To be honest I recon a 4.6 will be around 8- 10 these days. Hope you have deep pockets.
My P38 with the same engine does about 10mpg around town, best ive had is 17mpg on a motorway run. Totally worth it though 👌👌
The intended gas turbine engine of the P6 might have been even worse
I used to make those rover 3500 badges years ago.I might have some blank ones somewhere in my garage.I will let you know..
If it has the old-style cork sump gasket you could ditch it and just use a modern goo like Dirko to seal it instead.
I should make the sump gasket replacement soon oil leaks only get worse Matt good update I drive a Jaguar XJS 4.0 Litre Straight 6 with a 4 speed ZF Automatic Transmission I average about 18 in town and and 24 to 26 on a highway yours might be quite a bit lower my XJS is a 1995 Convertible good luck with the sump best regards Andy Allen
A local sign writer should be able to repaint those original 3500 badges with a new 4600 script
Or alternatively they could probably make a vinyl wrap in brushed aluminium to stick on top.
That oil leak is a slight bummer , but rather easy to fix! But the P6 is getting better and better! Looking forward to the next video Matt! 👍🏻👍🏻🆙 like allways!!
You'll get a bit more to the gallon if you ditch the SUs and the inlet manifold and fit a 4 barrel carb instead. More power too.
yes, thats on the shopping list
@@furiousdriving Being an old fart, I'd prefer the look of the stock wheels though.
Would a similar upgrade like Harry did to his XJC manual, electronic ignition and fuel injection be possible
How? The cds carbs atomize the fuel alot better!
I had the edelbrock carb on mye v8. Tuned it with afr gauge. Installed the Stormbergs and the power and fuel consumption was exactly the same. The Stormbergs used less fuel at high altidude because of the constant depression system.
@@Atle-k2z the p38 4.6 had fuel injection and electronic ignition anyway, so if it's an easy enough fit/upgrade I may make for better easier to manage running, I'm not sure what any other differences it would make though, it was just a suggestion, the novelty of having carburettors can be good , but starting and smooth running can be tricky to perfect
Huge air leaks through the pcv take offs on the carbs they should be connected up (via flametraps) you must be running lean.
Love the clear lenses. Red indicator lenses for the rear surely must be next. Breathers will probably be worth looking at for the oil leak. Keep up the good work!
A sign of the times, back in the early 80's I used to fill up my P6 3500s at ASDA for £20 💸
THE P6B is a beautiful car. I will be interested to see how well it performs, once it is sorted out.
I have seen a video where a gentleman used body filler to fill the back of stainless trim. Then it was filed smooth, and he used automotive double-sided mounting tape to stick the trim on. This eliminates the need to drill holes and reduces the future rust.
thats actually a very good idea. Id be worried though as this trim is getting very rare and hard to find
I have the same Allen keys.... a hateful set, they always fall out of the pack, particularly the smaller ones 🙄
I'd paint the fence with old engine oil, will last a lifetime. Just did my shed again with it for its 23rd birthday.😊👍🇮🇪
yup, a couple of the tiny ones have vanished..
@furiousdriving Can't beat Wera or Wiha hex keys. I have some Bahco ones as well and I'm disappointed, they're not as good despite Bahco's reputation for good quality.
That sounds and moved fabulous… a mention as I did know folk with the V8 SDi (still on carbs with manual choke) start from cold a click “drive” and BOOM it’s off like a greyhound… 😮
I am perplexed why cars of a certain age don't have to have a MOT. They are the most likely to develop unsafe problems. I am glad that you are doing the decent thing with the Rover.
The idea is that classic car owners are more diligent, and know how to look after the car and what to look out for.
For the majority, this is true, but there's always a few who see it as a way of not having to maintain the car, and don't care about their own or anybody elses safety.
Personally, I think it's worth MOTing them still. It's always good to have someone else look over everything, and you can always prove the car was roadworthy should anything happen.
@@ryanwilliams6526 Thanks for your reply, Ryan.
Well done Matt you should be very proud off yourself getting this car to where it is now 👌I do feel your pain with the fuel economy as my Subaru does 20 ish mph so probably shouldn’t complain 😅
Awesome work Matt, the Rover is progressing nicely. Happy Easter, I just celebrated my 31st birthday on Sunday. ☺️👍
I had a Morgan plus 8 with a 4.6 V8, I used to get around 20-25mpg depending on how I drove it, the P6 must be massively heavier than a Morgan so you’ll be lucky to get 20mpg!
Why rebuild an engine then run grinding paste through the cylinders by not fitting an air filter
Awesome video Matt well done. However next time please put 3-4 gallons of fuel in. Stop with micky mouse 1 gallon here, 1 gallon there. It’s a rover it needs to be treated to at least a £30-£40 worth of v-power. I’m a mechanic in Australia & I cannot stand it when I have to do any sort of work on a customers car & there is very little fuel in the tank. I will always run to the garage & bung in at least 15-20 litres so I can work with the engine running for some time.
Love the view from the front, looks so mean! Its got a unique touch with those indicators
Hey, Matt... I know the car is YOURS, to do with, as you please, BUT, I think you should keep the P6 as original as possible!! I'm all for upgrades, if they mean the car handles better & is more visible at night & allows YOU to see better, BUT I think I'd keep the overall look; ie. indicators & wheel trims, the car originally came with... Like I aay; that's just MY opinion...!!! Great to see the car back on the road, though, (albeit, with some "teething" issues!) 👍🙂
Have to ask Matt ? Loved your happy dance in last vid 😁 but do you have an Unhappy dance ? You would think a CZcamsr of your calibre and having many years of car misery would develop one for the many lack of happiness days in the future 😂😂, trying to be optimistic Matt but you just know they come regularly 👌🏻.
no, I just swear at them...
@@furiousdriving ahhh that’s where your going wrong then , an unhappy dance would scare the BEJESUS out of them more than a few expletives 😂👌🏻
Make sure the sump is straight at the sealing surface. Years of tighthening the screws could have bent the sump surface. It is easily hammered back to a shape.
You get a spreader plate from an SD1 for the back two sump bolts which helps prevent leaks 🙂
Loving the clear indicator lenses.
Looking good! 👍 My only uncomfortableness with white look inducators is they can (sometimes) become invisible in direct sunshine.
And people these days are not " programmed" to notice anything other than Amber ones when emerging from junctions etc.
LO Matt.Sump gasket ? perhaps. Might need a sump pan. Saw Edd C have a similar issue with a Range Rover. Turned out a previous owner had used a pole on their spanner and horsed up the bolts and warped the pan. Worth a wee check. Coz if the pan is warped then it dizne matter how many gaskets ye put on it it will still leak and drive you cookoo. laters . Happy Easter
Its the pan off the old 3.5 and hadnt been leaking before so I reckon its the gasket
@@furiousdriving It's pretty routine to just check that the flange is still flat and straighten it out anyway. I'm sure your pan will be fine to reuse once it's confirmed straight.
I love the completed front with the clear indicator lenses 👍
I have several 'spot sprayers' by Titan Tools; they're a copy of the Sure Shot refillable not aerosol sprayers. They stand up indefinitely to brake cleaner and are brilliant at degreasing stuff for leak tracing. As others have said, a distorted sump flange is a common issue, I've straightened many over the years and welded up the cracks from the distortion and/or straightening process. If you can get a rubber type gasket, they typically seal much better (no gasket compounds!) than the cork type.
You need to plumb in the pcv system from the carbs to the valve covers and the breather from the rear of the crank case into the air cleaner, that'll help with the oil tightness.
Plus, is it me, or does the ammeter never seem to show a charge? My old P6 3500S always showed a big + charge just after starting and then dropped back to just over the centre.
Stop tapping them there gauges, as our instrument techs used to say, " if they needed tapping, they'd have come with a hammer " !
I'm a retired " tiffie" as well and was also told the same!!😊
@@bobgorman9481 Can I ask, what's a 'tiffie'
@@JohnJohnson-lu9we An instrument articifer, which is the old name for an instrument technician, more used in the 1960s & 70s (my era) than today!
Matt, after you discovered that your car was leaking oil in the lay-by, an advert came on advertising the Flash Speedmop. Perhaps you need to take one of them in your P6B!
haha! thats an option!
I absolutely love the clear indicators with the LEDs! Looks so good
When you put your new sump gasket on make sure that the sump is flat all round, because if it's not it will still leak.
Great video Matt, like the new indicators very much and are way more visible.
enjoying very much, as usual
I can believe it's drinking fuel like it's going out of fashion. I had a Dolomite 1850 that did 9 to the gallon until I had it properly tuned
Running a tight new engine without any air filtration is not doing it any favours, the air even in your part of Kent is quite polluted.
Looking better but think you might need to try to adjust the trim strips as they look a bit out of line and detract from the appearance..
Clear lenses look great! especially with the black to set them off, fantastic!
If you’re getting some graphics for the car, get a badge in ‘Range Rover’ style, saying ‘Strange Rover’. 😂
I used to run a fire appliance, 6 cyl Rolls Royce with two huge SUs - 5 mpg.
The clear indication lenses look fantastic big fan of them 👍
Great video again. Can we see the Rover 2000 at some point?
Take to Ian Tyrrell to tinker with your carbs, he has a special tool - hosepipe😂😂
Your Rover V8 loves petrol and more improvements slowly and the bonnet catch works excellent
Heavy footed hooligan!! Imagine how good it will drive when its a manual.
Are the SU's from the 3500? If so you will need different needles. Comments about vacuum leaks also relevant. Does the dizzy have a vacuum connection? I note at least 1 vac pipe sticking out of a carb. Air filters affect the mixture so at least try and get a couple of pancakes on them. A spell on a dyno would be the best idea.
they are but Im not sticking with these so dont want to waste too much time or money on them
Previously you said that the DVLA wouldn't issue you with a historic V5C until you had first MOTd it, due to the engine change. 🤔
they make it up as they go along
Coming along nicely. Good work. 😁👍
Seem to remember that the construction and use regulations state that an indicator "flashes" between 60 and 120 a minute , your mixture will be weak as no air cleaner
Getting there that is sounding a lot better!
A Cup that works with Tea and Coffee is the most practical Invention ever😂
Good to see Mad Nigel has shaved his grey beard off. Well done 👍🏻
I love your work but I can’t believe you’re driving the car song so much without the air cleaners on? Maybe buy two cheap pod filters if you don’t have the correct air boxes.
Cheers Pat🇦🇺
It's certainly thirsty Matt but getting there ....sounds good too ...
It’s certainly coming along! It’s going to be a lovely motor.
The problem with the gauges is most likely the bimetallic voltage regulator has failed.
You could always go for a 4.6 badge from a P38 Range Rover. Otherwise maybe somebody with a laser engraver can make something like the original in aluminium. Maybe try a company that does name plates
Probably succeeded in distorting the sump now😅 Christ what a bodger😮
You need a vacuum guage to balance he carbs. Just turning the screws the same amount wont do it.
Looks great with the grille back on. She gets better all the time.
Excellent very enjoyable…👍🏻
What brand of petrol station do you usually use? Just so I can buy some shares :P. Welcome to the world of fuel consumption, when there are 8 or more friends at the bar :)
Does the sump have a cork gasket? Cause those are always shite.
Regarding the badge: I had my Mamba Edition badge remade at an engraver that also engraves sports prices. Look for the smaller shops is my advice.
I remember watching your rover 200 vi video were you repaired the wheels, what compound or filler did you use?
I dont think I repaired the 200vi wheels, Ive done other cars and used Q Bond - amzn.to/49hEEVp
@@furiousdriving thank you that's a massive help
I would have though a vinyl sign person should be able to realcreate a sticker from the badge that can then justcbe stuck over the 3500?
it would work but I dont know how good the aluminium effect would be
@@furiousdriving my wife has a little craft business and her suggestion was a new piece of aluminium, brush it and then get the wording printed out or cut out of vinyl. Only issue maybe the font
Where is the air cleaner?, Crankcase ventilation missing?
if you get a flasher relay for LED then they will flash at a speed that doesn't cause epileptic fits in other road users.
Nothing worse for a car than sitting around and not being used. Oil seals and gaskets dry out. Brakes seize up. And the corrosion sets in.
Are you not running air filters?
I will, but want to see everything at the moment
I wouldn’t be driving a just rebuilt engine without them. It will be sucking in all sort of dust and debris.
Mine's a pint of the black stuff!!
You'll never drink a pint of Bovril!
Is the Spirito de Punto mugs available in large size, pint mug or similar?
yes, there are small and large (11 & 15oz) versions, and a travel mug so something for all occasions! This is the 11oz Im using in the video
@@furiousdriving yeah my favourite drink is a pint of tea, 3 tea bags, 1 sugar and milk mmmmm
Yipee I'm here again Matt, Merry Easter.
Happy Easter to you too
Can you please put the camera at the exhaust so that we can hear the burble?
Love the P6 V8
From memory the fuel and temperature gauges both run through a ballast resistor unit, I suspect it is faulty.
Yes, I thought it was something like that. Ive got the factory workshop book, Im going to have a read of that
Again, from memory, if you remove the instrument clear glazing cover (just a pull off finisher, a push on fitting for the clock and four self tappers) I think it’s located adjacent to those instruments. I may even have one in some shoebox in the garage from my P6 days thirty years ago but whether I could ever find it is another matter……..@@furiousdriving
Great content
To be fair that engine probably needs a bloody good tune up which should give you some slight economy.
What's the smallest engine fitted in these cars?
What wheels are you thinking?
undecided. Something old and American maybe
As much as I love Wolfrace slot mags, I’m thinking Torque Thrust ll’s would look great on the P6
I think oil pouring out at that rate would trouble local cyclists and motor cyclists though
its only a half penny size droplet every 10m or less, its not sitting leaking into a puddle
Mat something tells me that you should be practicing your angry dance for the rover.😅😢
are you going to fit the air filters, in case of flames & fire. 😲
Tick, tick, tick. #progress 😉
The range Rover p38 4.4 V8 engine only does about 7mpg so very thirsty
Horrible fuel economy...the gearing was too short with the stock 3500.