Teardrop Trailer Part 1, Flooring and Insulation (MonkWerks)
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- čas přidán 9. 11. 2016
- Autumn does not typically remind people of springtime, but if you are thinking about doing some camping in the spring and want more than just a tent ... now is the time. I decided to build a teardrop trailer from scratch, with of course a little vintage flair. The build process is going to be long term but with a scheduled completion date sometime in the spring. The first section is the flooring with part 2, hopefully not too far off, that will cover the building of the walls and some rough wiring.
If you want follow along with the Zach's build too, follow this link: www.monkwerks.org/southernginger
Visit My Website:
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Music:
Baba Yaga Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b... - Jak na to + styl
You're really half-assin' this job. I would total be full-assin' it. In all seriousness, one of the better "Here's what I did and how I did it" guys out there. Probably could pick up a million tips from you. Thx.
And please pardon if I be too coarse, Fr.
More than a little late for you but vacuum sandwich construction is by far the strongest and surprisingly easy way to make these.
I missed you, Father.
Glad you're creating content again.
+shookings Thanks, glad to be back. Did you check out the knife build I posted 2 weeks ago (that was my official return video)?
Fr.Thomas this is going to be a great series thanks for sharing all the best,to you and yours
Really cool
I'm really excited about seeing the trailer come together. I think it's going to be very cool. So far so good!
This is going to be a great series. Scott
Hello. I have been watching video after video on building these trailers and have to say, this is the best! Step by step explanations as well as mistakes and what you would do differently shown and pointed out. Thank you!
Keep those videos coming. Awesome job.
I was so happy to see this pop up in my feed. Great video, Fr. Thomas. I can't wait to see how it turns out. I have wanted to build one for years.
+Jim Fancher Perhaps now is the time to start!
Good stuff! Excited to watch this come together.
+Carter Wilson Workshop Thanks ... now on to the walls.
Now I know the background!!! It was great working with you on this. Can't wait to see how the video comes out.
Whoa! Can't wait to see this series. Nice job Father
+Paul Meyette Thanks ... I picked up some of the supplies for part 2 today
Cool project! Can't wait to see how it comes together.
I also like the "NU STEP."
+Maker on the Move I never noticed "NU STEP" until you pointed it out; now I can't stop not seeing it.
Awesome videos brother! Keep up the good work, going to be attempting to do the same project. Thanks for the helpful video/tips!
It looks good! I am looking forward to part 2.
+John Kelley hopefully soon, just picked up some more supplies
I'm looking forward to watching this series as I have plans to someday build one of these myself. Nice work.
+Paul Desmond (imakewoodthings) Thanks. I'm having a lot of fun so far with the build.
I think moving the axle will be your best option, time consuming but in the end I think it will be worth the trouble. Good to see your back at it! Glory to Jesus Christ!
+Mongo Makes Glory to Him forever. Certainly repositing the axel is the best option. If welding is involved though, I don't have the equipment and the last time I welded anything was freshman year of highschool in shop class.
Awesome, Father! I have been following this on Instagram.
Thank you for making this video, you can find on the enter net tear drop trailer clubs and get some great ideas from them, thanks again.
+Robert Brunston Certainly, the TNTT community has been a big inspiration.
lookin good 👍
Beautiful project and a great start on this series. I have been toying with the idea of building a tear drop trailer myself. But may opt for buying one instead do to not having the time. I can't wait to see how this works out for you and it may change my mind. Thanks for sharing!
+Nicholas Gomezable Remember that half the fun of making things is making them. Let's see if part 2 will tip you off the fence.
That's awesome! I just got my trailer this week and will be starting my build soon :)
+Jon Madsen I'd love to know how it turns out.
Good luck, lot of work ahead. Looks good so far.
+jonh walsh I've most of the winter, as long as it's mild
Awesome my brother good job :)
Even though it is to late it is better to drive screws into solid wood then to drive screws into OSB. In addition if on youtube you search for "diy teardrop trailers" you can find lots of step by step builds.
Really looking forward to enjoying this series!
+Lars Sørensen Hopefully not too long before part 2 is ready
I'll be watching to see how this goes for you. I built a teardrop trailer myself 7 years ago (and I absolutely love it). You are correct in that you are going to have to watch the weight distribution with that axle location. The galley ends up being pretty heavy on mine, as all of the food and cooking gear sits back there behind the axle.
I use my teardrop in 2 different ways. When camping with the family, it is basically a covered utility trailer. We use the galley for food storage and preparation. We store the gear for 6 people in the cabin. In that format, the weight is quite nicely balanced.
When just my wife and I use it, the cabin is basically empty, but the galley is still full, so there is very little tongue weight. I'm sure that if my axle was in the location yours is, it would tip over in that mode.
As many have mentioned, if you can move the axle back, you should give it a try.
Having the door that far forward will be awkward, as you will sit in the doorway, swing your legs in and the scoot down into the cabin. With it further back, you can just sit down, pull your legs in and just lay down.
If you would like to correspond as you are building, let me know and I will send you my contact information by email.
+Allan Smith Thank you for the advise. I decided to see about moving the axel back, with the way it's connected with the trailer I can gain about 8 inches, and I've found someone that can help me with the metal work. Also I'd love any advice you could offer, I can be contacted through email Thomas AT monkwerks DOT org.
used a 4X8 trailer myself, but built the base frame of the floor over the wheel wells in order to not worry about having to go around them when entering and exiting the trailer.
Hi Padre: Good project and you're way too hard on yourself! Looks good so far. I do think that you're going to need to balance out the weight to give you the stability you need. You're off to a great start! Thanks for sharing your life and your project with us.
+Hugo Danilo Yes, weight distribution is the issue, though I've gotten a few good ideas on how to deal with it. Paz.
Nice
Awesome good stuff. I just got a 32 footer yesterday run down. I'm debating tearing it all down starting from scratch or take what's there and start
When wheels are placed too forward it becomes tail heavy.
This could become dangerous on highway resulting in fishtailing and loss of control and flipping.
If not too late, move axle back (60%/40% to ballance weight).
Love the video...a lot of good building techniques.
that's going to look great! make sure you put as much weight as possible in front of the wheel well or consider moving it! :) can't wait to see more!
+SouthernGinger Workshop Thanks. Now I have to see if I cab catch up to your progress. :)
MonkWerks with Fr. Thomas luckily it's not a contest! I can't wait to see your next video! 👊👊 reach out if you have any questions
VERY interesting project!! I'm watching this one closely...might have to try to build one.... in my own way
+Ray Pena That's the thing I'm learning about teardrops is that they are highly customizable.
MonkWerks with Fr. Thomas after I finish my boat build...I'm going to have to think about a new project...I like this one!
A boat! That's one of the projects I want to do. I'm thinking of something small like a kayak.
MonkWerks with Fr. Thomas then check out my channel, I've built about 5 boats and I have 2 more boat ideas I'd like to build next year!
this is going to be nice. as far as the axles i see they are attached to a sub-frame and welded to the top frame. only way to move the axle would be a grind and re-weld in new position. maybe you can build a nose to the front of your tear drop , use it for extra storage. tear drops do not have to follow a strict shape they are highly customized.
+Michael Puffenbarger I was definitely thinking about a tongue "box" to help redistribute the weight. At the same time I still need to be carefule how much is added just to the tongue to keep it within its weight tolerance.
I would have built the floor wider , 1 inch shy out to the outside of the fenders, would gain another foot of floor space . Even 6-8 inches out on the hitch . You would be surprised how much more room that would be .
Padre where's the rest of your build videos? Those are some of the best Ive seen on CZcams and you cut them short
Fr. Thomas. If you ever do this again, move your axle to 36" from the rear of the trailer. This will alleviate the door/ wheel problem, or maybe you could still do it before you continue. Either way looking forward to further updates.
Tommy i agree.
its easy to shift an axle to suit.
Best way for the axial position is to actually move it back if not you can always add a second axle to carry as much weight as you would like
Move the axle and wheels to the rear. You can probably just install new mounting hardware, then unbolt axle etc and reconnect to new mounting hardware. You'll have to live with the shortcomings of the existing setup for a long time and it may make you not want to use the camper eventually. Think of resale of the camper and your return if left as is.
Re-enforce the fender over the wheel and make it a step or porch for your door, you could then center the door right over the wheel.
+zbrumbach Interesting, I'll have to think about that one. I had been considering covering the fender and extendibg it to the back to make a saddle bag type of storage.
Really strand board thats smart, Have you replace floor yet?
The front of the trailer HAS to weigh more then the back. A rule of thumb is to halve the length (8") to give 48" then subtract the length of trailer in inches (40-8) to give the location of the center-line of the axle at 40" from the rear. You CAN NOT add weight to the front because you would quickly exceed the normal allowable 200lb tongue weight. The axle center-line has to be moved back to 40" from the rear.
+dejanira2 Thank you! I didn't know there was a formula for that. Right now the axle is a couple inches in front of the center-line of the bed. The way its currently constructed there is room on the framing to move it back. I need to get under there and doo some measuring. Thanks again for the info!
It would be a little of work but you could move your axle back some.
2016. You used OSB. How did that work? Did it stay dry?
Love the video. I am wondering what you will do with the space in front on the trailer. Wonder if you might be able to use redistribute your weight or space. The battery bank and water tanks are very heavy and can be moved around for balance. Just my two cents.
+Eugene Jr. Folse It does have an extra long tongue on it. The battery will be going up there and perhaps a storage box. Though I can only put so much on the tongue because of the weight tolerances. An initial though was to have a portable water system that could be stored inside the trailer near the front while transporting and then move it to the galley area when I setup camp.
Definitely too many screws :D I'll be waiting for the next instalment
+Peter Compton I think I added about 15# to the trailer with them
WOOT! I have been watching your progress on Instagram and am excited to see the videos. As for the wheels...how is the frame attached to the axle? Is it possible to detach the wheels and move them back? If not, you might think about adding weight of some kind to the tongue otherwise I think the balance when detached could be an issue. Or there is the option of adding stabilizing jacks to the rear underside of the trailer to act as legs of a sort. Can't wait to see the rest of this series!
+Michael M Thanks for the input. I need to crawl back under it to get a good look at the axel assembly. Iwas reviewing some of the photos I took of the build and it appears it might be bolted on, if so I might be able ro relocate it, if there is welding though ...
There will be stabilizing jacks for when I setup camp, but those will probably be detached, right now I don't want to add unnecessary weight to the back.
Oddly enough, last night I saw this ad on Amazon for a Torin T10152 Scissor Jack - 1.5 Ton, it's on sale for $18 right now, even cheaper than Harbor Freight, but only goes to a height of 15 3/8th inches, so not sure if that's good enough for your trailer. As I said on your Instagram, I think you would be perfectly fine detaching the leaf spring hangers and moving them back. I actually think that, as long as you use good quality, grade 8 bolts it would be perfectly safe and solve a lot of problems. Heck, if you just a bit closer, I'd volunteer to come over and help!
Why not replace or weld a heavier fender over the wheel (one that can be used as a step) and move the door to its more typical placement? Just a thought, looks like a fun project and looks like you have a great start already behind you.
+Michael Trent That's certainly an option and one I considered. It boils down to weight distribution. I want a galley kitchen in the back, which adds weight that could potentially be hazardous while transporting. I think my best bet is to move the center point.
With those constraints, I know you are making the right decision.
Move the wheels back ?
I have a question, what kind of trailer do you get. I would love to save up and build a camper and your videos will be very helpful
+Anthony I searched through Craigslist to find my trailer. I decided to go with one that was 4x8 in order to take advantage of normal sized plywood.
There is a product called VIVIX made by Formica. It's UV and water resistant and may be worth looking into when skinning the camper. It comes in lengths and widths of the right size and comes in .17" thickness. It also comes in many colors. Can it be found in the U.S.? I don't know....I'm still trying to locate a dealer here. Anyway, it may be worth looking into.
Have you ruled out moving the axle?
+The Dude I'd prefer not doing that. I need to crawl back under there and see how it's all connected. I'm not a metal worker so not to sure how to go about it.
are you going to cover the process of getting it Street legal and getting plates on it? not sure a home built one would be Street legal in every country.
+havenisse2009 Since I purchased the trailer it is already street legal. Most states in the US (can't speak for other countries) require homemade trailers from scratch to be inspected (in Missouri that means taking it to law enforcement) and then they can be tagged.
The wheel should be located at 60% of the overall length of the cabin
Mistake with lumber sizing.. check
Mistake with too many screws.. check
Mistake with using smelly stuff.. check
Mistake with too large bolts.. check
So far, I have made all of the necessary mistakes. I hope my trailer looks as good as yours.
Tom Olofsson Stay positive and many mistakes improved your acknowledgment and less mistake down the road.
@@hollyt1673 mistakes in engineering usually get you (or others) killed and you'll never have a second chance
This is going to be a great build fr. Something I would like to build one day. Have you seen Glenn @vervdesign over on Instagram? He has built a great trailer and does some amazing woodworking to boot.
+Neil Pemberton Thanks, I'll have to look him up. I can always use a little inspiration on design options.
Axle should be 60% / 40% from front to back.
I'm more interested in weight distribution rather than just distance from the front.
Those percentages are how you get the correct distribution. Look up some of the E, Trailer videos
Hi there . I to love tear drop trailers and hope to make one someday, as for your axle problem way not just move it back a few inches, just drill new holes the same distance back from the ones that already there, the springs can hang on bolts and don't have to be wielded to the under frame, its not that big of a job but you will want to do it now before to much weight goes on to the trailer and if you get a chance maybe you would take a look and all that at my channel
+justin dunne Thanks, I'll take a look. I think I'm going to try to move the axel and I think I've someone to help me with a little more experience than I. I'm just a little hesitant to deal with something structural like that on my own.
Standard construction practices would have been to screw through the 0SB into the frame material and not through the framing into the 0SB. 0riented strand board has limited screw holding ability within itself and you risk screw points protruding out the opposite side. This would permit the use of shorter screws and need less work to drive them. Yes, you used too many !
All the classic "over builds" , really; fibered roof cement as undercoating ? If you read the can, the material is not to be applied directly to wood. Messy, ugh... ! A couple good coats of porch & deck paint would have sufficed. Where are you taking this, into the swamp ? One & 1/2" of insulation in the floor, why; are you camping in Alaska ? Your deck is 3" high already with 3/4" Red 0ak plywood (urethaned?)
My advice, don't frame it out with 2×4's like like everyone else does; it's a 4'×4'×8" wooden crate not a 3 car garage.
Use caution each step of the way to save weight and remain economical, many of these quickly end up overweight and over budget.
As for the door, you should have stopped and solved that dilemma first instead of stumbling ahead.
My advice, scrap that thing and go buy a nice enclosed cargo trailer.
You lost me at OSB. 1:26
Why?