I served a 3 yr apprenticeship and been painting for 22 yrs. When you paint long enough over time you have a sort of style or way you will brush roll and spray. Met a lit of painters who hate painting. I consider myself blessed to be a painter and still live what i do. My customers tell me it shows that i love my job.
Bruv .. I’m from London England .. currently in the states .. but just moved from southern Spain too .. been a painter all my working life .. All the trades I work with always tell me they hate painting … WE get the praise .. WE make the job look finished .. … I wouldn’t do any other job .. plus it’s not taxing in the body .. we still look good .. not falling apart my man
3" brush rocks. Perfect cut in brush. Dipping a brush into a bucket does not load the brush. The paint clings to the outside of the brush. This can cause drips and pour paint flow onto the wall. Dip brush into paint and then press the bristles against the side of the bucket forcing the paint into the middle of the brush. Do both sides. When done correctly you can pick up the brush without a drip and as you draw your paint stroke the paint will flow without dripping. It is like ink inside a magic marker.
Now that you mention it, my father used to do that with his brush when he was painting windows or trim. He'd dip it, then pat the inside of the paint can on both sides, emerge from the paint dripless, and lay down a line that he could just snug right up to an edge. He had a lot of practice and a steady hand, but your technique is a big part of it. Thank you.
@@pingpong9656 Press the bristles into the side of the can. This forces the paint into the bristles. It is a quick press press, and then out of the can and onto the wall.
@@pingpong9656 First, you have to be painting out of a "pot" or pail that is less than half full. Then you immerse your brush in the paint, bring the brush up out of the paint and kind of slap the sides of the pail with your brush a few times. When you can lift the brush out of the pot and it doesn't drip, you're ready to approach the work surface or edge. You really have to have some space on the inside of your pot that is not filled with paint so you can slap or press the flat of your brush to that surface.
Lol everyone jumps in to say you wrong or their way is better, but there's no science in paint, you find your groove and rock with it, this works, and may not work for anyone else... Being able to cut without tape separates novice from pros... Bro out here left hand on a ladder holding a camera helping you, show him respect, plus a nice clean work space, no cutting corners, that's professional 👍👍
1/12/24 Great video - I am a semi-retired handyman in Northern California wine country. Cutting in is my thing! I would suggest / recommend that when holding the brush and cutting in that you NEVER flex your wrist - the motion comes FROM THE ELBOW - NOT the forearm/wrist! Because if you move the wrist it creates a radius motion that curves the paint line.
Tough cut brother. Very few painters can cut with both hands. Even fewer can cut dark colors against a white ceiling with a textured finish and achieve a good cut line. You showed a close up of your work in progress. Beyond impressive in my professional opinion. There are a lot of videos that show the before and after. Very few show what you just did. Great job! I only have 40 years of experience, so please accept my humble message.
This video is cool. I'm 67, do a lot of painting. I am really impressed with that perfect cut line. It helps to know these skills when you have a bright white ceiling and darker color for walls.
I always cut in ceilings while wearing stilts (Dura- Stilts, 18”- 30”). It’s much faster and less tiring than a step ladder. You just walk along and can easily position your body for best comfort and efficiency. Tip: adjust the stilts so your head just skims the ceiling. Example: 96” ceiling - 72” tall = 24” stilt height. Love your tip with putty knife. I never heard that one before.
I like the 1" square head brush; holds a lot of loaded paint so once you get in the groove on a line, the paint lasts forever and you can just keep going.
I painted professionally for a few years. Never seen your tip, but it makes really good sense given my experience. Retired now, but will try that text time I paint. Thanks.
I believe this is a method that will work for me! I get blinded by the white after awhile and it can be hard to distinguish wall/ceiling line. I'll be able to see the line created by the knife and have a guide to follow now! Thank you so very much!
Yes, there is something about cutting in to a white-on-white corner that gets me sort of disoriented for a moment, this gives you something to focus on.
Never used the Benji Moore products... they are a bit pricy, and I always felt they were somewhat plastic-like. I always used my 5n1 to smooth a line along the knockdown, the 5n1 is always in my side pocket, and never leaves my side, my fist boss would send people home for not having: A) 5n1, B) Rag, C) Painter whites. Another good trick is to use a square sanding block, and force a corner into the top edge of the wall where the ceiling meets the wall. This works better on the wall before you prime, to cut into the knock-down plaster, and also gain an extra edge that the wall finishers didn't leave. You are the FIRST painter on CZcams that I didn't tag as a crappy handyman who THOUGHT he knew how to paint! You are right about tape, and about the only reason I have ever needed tape was to mask off the baseboards and chair rails to keep the roller sprinkles off them!
The guy that taught me 20 + yes ago was like that too. Always white, always knife in?back pocket. Had to paint a straight line vertical and horizontal in the middle of a wall, cut in with no tape. Even had me take apart my first sprayer and put back together. ( so would really know my tools like the back of my hand and know how to repair when your back up rig is needed by Monday.
Been painting for years on my own home and rental properties, and that is perhaps the best tip I’ve seen for achieving a nice line between the ceiling and wall. I also breathe in slowly before applying the brush then gradually exhale when brushing. As you say, “no rush.”
I’m a novice painter (as a matter of fact, I hate painting 😆) but I learned that it’s a lot less work “free handing” like this video than putting up tape. Putting up tape just makes a mess for me. I learned how to apply the right amount of paint, how to angle the brush, how to apply the brush strokes and how to be ambidextrous just like in this video. Just like he said, takes time and patience
I can relate to what you're saying, when it comes to taping. I can definitely tape, but I hate wasting product like that, especially when I know that, if you take your time at cutting in, and with painting the trim, you can get as good of a result, as someone who tapes. I'm not against the people that tape, but I guess I just don't understand why they can't take the time to learn how to be accurate in their cutting in, and in painting the trim, that's all. Have a great day, and when it comes to painting (Or anything else!), ROCK ON!!!
Painted my whole life. Worked for paint contractors while in college in the late 1960s. Learned the business from them and ended up as a successful painting contractor for over 50 yrs. Air compressors and paint pots were still in wide use when I started painting, so were oil base enamels. I went all airless during the 70s and never looked back. I also learned to cut in with either hand and tried many different ways to get clean lines. Good video.
I think any painter worth their salt needs to be able to cut in with both hands. I'm a leftie, so I had to learn to use my right the same way. There are always areas where you have to swap hands! I really liked this guys cutting in - I think with painters it's kind of a signature thing. We pride ourselves on a nice straight line.
I worked for a high end painter/cabinet finisher for about 7 years. Before getting the job I was ignorant to painting.. there is a difference between painting and being a professional painter. My boss could see a crooked cut line or a holiday from the driveway.. I learned there is a technique to straight cut lines. Chinex soft bristle. And just like when target shooting.. exhaling when painting keeps your cuts straight. At least that's what worked for me. We never used tape for cut lines. That's homeowner shit. Lol
@@qasmb1546 A professional painter can cut in a kitchen , without tape , in about twenty minutes. How long would it take to tape all the cupboard edges and fixtures in a kitchen, and then have to cut it in ? I've never seen any of the professional painters I worked with use tape. One guy could pass his brush all the way around a door knob in two movements, and never leave any paint on the door knob.
You seem pretty knowledgeable. Purdy brushes are good, but you really should check out a Corona Cortez. They are comparable in price but are of much higher quality. They hold more paint and release it in such a smooth and consistent way. Cutting the wall at the ceiling would be a perfect way to compare the two brushes. Do one wall with a Purdy and do the next with a Corona and I guarantee you will feel the difference.
45 years' experience here, I use a 3'' wall brush or a 4' wall brush if I can get them. Perfect cut line, 3 times faster. I brushout door bucks faster than you can tape and spray them. We were taught the right way buy guys that were around before rollers were invented.
Thanks, I know a real mechanic when I see one. If you're swinging a purdy brush, then that's all the proof I need that you're not a painter. 1/2 stock, if that, one wedge and what the hell is up with that angle thing? I used to cut in 6 over 6's with a 2-1/2 flat, hell, we had to cut the glass on a ladder, braking the cuts on our knee and using a speging gun to shoot those diamond points into the mullions. In those days, it was the painter that installed the glass, that's right. We were PROFESSIONALS.
Ok... not bad. Not bad at all! Great work! Also:You mentioned about being able to do your cut-in work with both hands. You're right-It takes a lot of practice, and caution. I can do that, too, but it took a long time for me to get the feel of things, in that particular part of the job. As I said:Great work! I'm only too happy to subscribe!
This is the missing link I’ve been looking for! I imagine the line serves also to be a little bit of a border than traps some so it doesn’t seep upwards. My ongoing dilemma is always the ceiling or walls first argument. Having two contrasting colors makes this a never ending back and forth battle of touching up each color until my eyes stop telling me it’s acceptable or not. My original plan on the rooms I’m currently working on was white on white. But because the casing was my most important piece of the project, and it had to be white, the walls had to be done another color my simple scheme was not going to be pleasing. What surprised me though was that the top shelf Sherman Williams paint (grey) still revealed countless teensy white specks after it dried. My first coat is (except on new work) usually mostly acceptable. Hate admitting this because it’s bad form. The second coat goes really quickly with good paint, but it is still a bit of a hassle. But I’m certainly trying your tip when I get back to the ladder this afternoon.
I like your knife trick, I'll be using that 👌 Try turning your brush so you are using the side bristles more rather than just the tip(not completely parallel to your line, but much closer to parallel than perpendicular).. Once you get a feel for it, you'll notice your lines will be even straighter and you'll be able to go longer per dip. The way the bristles are installed in the brush makes the paint flow from center to edge, and heel to edge... using more of the edge will allow you to empty the brush more efficiently without having to work the bristles back and forth as many times to refill the tip, thus creating straighter lines faster and more easily. Also when trying to get away with 1 coat, where the color is barely covering: on your final pass, turn the brush farther past parallel, so the heel is closer to your line than the tip. This will release even more paint, thus better covering the area near the line where the roller cannot get. The things you learn after 40yrs in the biz :D
Learning and trying to explain so people can understand what you are trying to do are two different skills and abilities. They do not always go hand in hand.
@@MV-wb2cz For me, it mostly depends on how many tight corners or trim are in need of cutting.. If it's mostly long straight sections with minimal corners/trim, I use 3". If there's lots of corners/trim, I go with 2.5".
Great tip I can’t stand cutting in ( I’m useless at it ) it’s so difficult getting that lovely straight neat line especially if ur using a Dark colour next to a white ceiling and if u get it wrong it looks awful in the past I have used tape ( frog tape) and it did work with no bleed through but it takes so long to put that on neatly I’ve seen on you tube specialist cutting in rollers I might give them a go on my next project and c if they make it easier
works well w the pointed part of 5 IN 1 also. learned it in Sarasota. I call it the florida trick.Caulking a super small bead along the edge of the tape will help prevent bleeding through.
Painter for 30 years. We normally just freehand the cut-in...I'm glad you didn't go right up to the edge to cut in...But, in production painting, ya gotta move the paint...it's a one or two stroke process...Especially with flat...And, naturally depending on the surface roughness...
I use a knife like that but more to make sure there’s no loose crud or bumps to throw off the cutting. Prefer a hard to find square cut 2 1/2 sash brush. You can reverse direction with a twitch of the wrist. Also you can flip it over if paint is sagging out and continue on. Your correctly cutting just shy of the mud cove at the intersection of wall and ceiling. Good visuals!
I use a 12” drywall knife as a ceiling guard and I can fly with the brush. Quick wipe of the knife every once in a while to keep a clean edge. Easy, quick, cheap, washable and no waste like tape.
When you use the knife, are you angling it at a 45 degree angle or slightly biased towards the ceiling or wall to prevent paint from trying to bleed over? Thanks!
I think your advice is best for the beginner or first time DIY person like me. :) Cut in with brush is for someone who has skill or experience with painting.
I was a painter for 20 years and I’m telling you a 3” brush with just the right angles is enough and when used properly acrillic pain is bled perfectly into trim
A trick I use if I tape: cut first with smaller brush using ceiling paint (to seal tape), wait a few minutes for paint to get tacky, then cut again with the wall paint using larger brush. That way any paint that bleeds under the tape will be same color as ceiling. A good trick for people who are not pressed for time that don't paint a lot.
Been in the game for awhile. Great tutorial on cutting in. The knife trick pretty slick. Just eas it down light touch sneak right on up to that line and repeat that to yourself the rest the day and you should be okay 👍 Good Luck and happy painting 🖼
I'll be honest I was stressing out a little just watching you, I don't remember exactly but I don't think I was breathing the whole time watching you paint 😆
Their is more than one way of doing good professional painting job when it comes to cutting in and all the other bits involved. Each to their own. At end of the day it's all about providing a neat tidy job with no streaks, runs and not hitting woodwork or ceilings.
Your brush technique is similar to how a car striping painter uses the brush: slowly, with full bristle with pressure contacting the surface- the tip and upper edge will 'track', following your movement. Draw from left to right, using the shoulder, not the wrist or elbow for a smooth line. Pre-painting just below the edge ensures a consistent application with the tip creating the edge.
My trick is similar No putty knife No tape I lay my brush parallel with the edge and lay a smooth edge in corner I also use the angle of the brush in the corner Try it, works great
Its called scribing. You basically create a small groove, or dam in the drywall for your bristles to ride along and make it more difficult for the paint to go beyond it, as long as you're somewhat careful.
this is a great little trick ,,,its been around for ages ,,,,,,,,,,,,,just clarify not to push to hard. if you do you will rip through drywall tape in most cases
The best tip for me is to take the tip of your brush angel it like this \ or like this / not like this I or like this - then push to the corner till the tip touches the corner and do not push the brush into the wall u want it to be almost how it normally looks should and it should give u the line your looking for u just softly gotta run that brush tip through the corner and boom
Very underrated video, I appreciate the nice attitude and helpful tips. Personally I got cocky and tried cutting in without tape and that was a huge mistake. But I’ll try your technique and hopefully i can get it right someday 😂
I started a painting business in February this year. I’ve had opportunities to increase my skill and really step into the trade, but I think I made a mistake. I stopped cutting in with a brush and instead started doing everything with a 4 inch roller for a while. I’ve gotten much faster at masking but I still feel like I should go back to the brush.
nice work. I paint at the schools, prepping takes lots of time. my question is, do the professional painters like you tape inside corners to get a perfect straight line, when you have two different colors. I was told to use a paint shield. when I'm done painting, I go back and look for minor mistakes.
I know that the putty knife and line is a way for people to try and achieve a straight line but I don't use that method on the rounded over corners because it leaves that upper part of the ceiling color half round over on the wall to be seen [which is very noticeable and unsightly in my full belief] as well you have to have extremely steady hands to get a true straight to the eyeball line so i avoid all this by following the upper half of the rounded over corner line instead of in the middle [where your putty knife line is located] or the bottom half of the rounded over corner line... The way to get the straightest to the eye cut lines when dealing with rounded corners... No putty knife line needed and no tape needed and you eliminate the upper rounded over part that shows the ceiling color onto the wall side... Just straight open hand cutting and your eyeball sight... By doing it that way it removes the rounded and gap look between where the ceiling meets the wall... When completed the ceiling line where it meets the wall is straight like a 45 degree line looks straight when cut in... Instead of the bottom half or the middle half [line] of the rounded corner leaving the gap and the ceiling line on the wall and in most cases uneven cut lines from trying to perform a miracle...Fast and easy and gets the job done without any different effort or set up than when you normally cut a corner line... By bottom and upper round over line I am referring to the exact spot where the round [surface] ends and the flat [surface] begins...
professional painter here, and i like this. I usually watch these sorts of videos with a very critical eye, but yer this one, i am going to try it today. I will report back if its bullshit lol
Nice job site, did you stage it for the video or is that a normal setting? I just put my brushes down after 40 years in the trade. After hearing your tape comment I`ll add that when doing an accent wall and I knew the client would expect perfection I would do it as follows, Tape the wall then using the adjoining wall or ceiling color apply a little of that color on the accent wall to be painted, then that color bleeds under the tape but it is undetectable as its the same wall/ceiling color, it also seals the tape so when you cut it with the accent color it creates a sharp line that cannot be duplicated by hand, I let the paint dry completely before removing. It is not a practical everyday process but it is worth the time when needed. Keep up the nice work ....
another reason this works (to paint to within a few mm fron the ceiling) is because of light effects…. at that junction of the ceiling and the wall the contrast is always going to trick the eye to not see the actual line that the two surfaces meet, but instead it merely sees the two different amount of light reflected from two surfaces that are 90° opposed.
Gotta let the paint "roll” up to the texture. Keep the brush loaded. But not dripping. I always dip and then slap the brush against the sides of my cut pail. Gotta cut both ways. I’ve brush cut tons of walls with a "knock down" ceiling texture. If you don’t know what you’re doing it can be intimidating, try it in a closet 1st to get the hang of it, then onto the rest of the house. Thing about it is, if you get a little paint on the texture, no biggie, come back with the same ceiling paint and touch it up. It’s not the end of the world. Practice & Patience, you’ll be fine.
Two other ideas: 1. If painting a new house, three color scheme (Baseboards, walls, ceilings), spray the trim as you have, cover trim and then spray walls, cover walls, spray ceilings. Perfect lines every time, and maybe a little quicker than hand painting. 2. Tape on ceiling, but then put a very thin bid of CLEAR caulk, and cut in right away. Do second coat, and take off tape. No bleed through under the tape.
Sometimes a small area I will free hand. Seems like time stops. The tape and caulk has made several troublesome jobs go fairly quickly for me. I've gotten away with the Alex caulking in white (tho clear is a great idea). You gotta wipe that down to nearly nothing and then brush it on like yo mamma calling. Then I just pull the tape quick. Can do to 8 feet in about 10 minutes but without the fatigue that cutting in gives me. Great advice bud
Paint won't bleed under tape if you first paint the tape edge with the same color you're painting over or with a transparent media to seal the edge. Laser sharp results.
I served a 3 yr apprenticeship and been painting for 22 yrs. When you paint long enough over time you have a sort of style or way you will brush roll and spray. Met a lit of painters who hate painting. I consider myself blessed to be a painter and still live what i do. My customers tell me it shows that i love my job.
I hear the same thing. I love painting and been doing it for 12yrs
Bruv .. I’m from London England .. currently in the states .. but just moved from southern Spain too .. been a painter all my working life ..
All the trades I work with always tell me they hate painting … WE get the praise .. WE make the job look finished .. … I wouldn’t do any other job ..
plus it’s not taxing in the body .. we still look good .. not falling apart my man
3" brush rocks. Perfect cut in brush. Dipping a brush into a bucket does not load the brush. The paint clings to the outside of the brush. This can cause drips and pour paint flow onto the wall. Dip brush into paint and then press the bristles against the side of the bucket forcing the paint into the middle of the brush. Do both sides. When done correctly you can pick up the brush without a drip and as you draw your paint stroke the paint will flow without dripping. It is like ink inside a magic marker.
good tip. thanks.
Now that you mention it, my father used to do that with his brush when he was painting windows or trim. He'd dip it, then pat the inside of the paint can on both sides, emerge from the paint dripless, and lay down a line that he could just snug right up to an edge. He had a lot of practice and a steady hand, but your technique is a big part of it. Thank you.
Do you press the side of the bristles into the side of the can or do you press the end of the bristles?
@@pingpong9656 Press the bristles into the side of the can. This forces the paint into the bristles. It is a quick press press, and then out of the can and onto the wall.
@@pingpong9656 First, you have to be painting out of a "pot" or pail that is less than half full. Then you immerse your brush in the paint, bring the brush up out of the paint and kind of slap the sides of the pail with your brush a few times. When you can lift the brush out of the pot and it doesn't drip, you're ready to approach the work surface or edge. You really have to have some space on the inside of your pot that is not filled with paint so you can slap or press the flat of your brush to that surface.
Lol everyone jumps in to say you wrong or their way is better, but there's no science in paint, you find your groove and rock with it, this works, and may not work for anyone else...
Being able to cut without tape separates novice from pros... Bro out here left hand on a ladder holding a camera helping you, show him respect, plus a nice clean work space, no cutting corners, that's professional 👍👍
Exactly, very impressive work here.
None of that matters when you end up with a shitty cut in.
Yes, very good work here. Painting, whether on canvas or a wall, is an art. There’s no 1 correct way
Yeah everyone has a better way, but yet here they are doing a search on it 😂😂😂😂
What you say is correct, but painting doors without removing the handles is being lazy in my opinion...
1/12/24 Great video - I am a semi-retired handyman in Northern California wine country. Cutting in is my thing! I would suggest / recommend that when holding the brush and cutting in that you NEVER flex your wrist - the motion comes FROM THE ELBOW - NOT the forearm/wrist! Because if you move the wrist it creates a radius motion that curves the paint line.
Tough cut brother. Very few painters can cut with both hands. Even fewer can cut dark colors against a white ceiling with a textured finish and achieve a good cut line. You showed a close up of your work in progress. Beyond impressive in my professional opinion. There are a lot of videos that show the before and after. Very few show what you just did. Great job! I only have 40 years of experience, so please accept my humble message.
An old man learned a trick from a young man. Thank you 🙏
This video is cool. I'm 67, do a lot of painting. I am really impressed with that perfect cut line. It helps to know these skills when you have a bright white ceiling and darker color for walls.
I murmured a cuss word when you went left handed. That's mind-numbing. Awesome painting skills.
I always cut in ceilings while wearing stilts (Dura- Stilts, 18”- 30”). It’s much faster and less tiring than a step ladder. You just walk along and can easily position your body for best comfort and efficiency. Tip: adjust the stilts so your head just skims the ceiling. Example: 96” ceiling - 72” tall = 24” stilt height. Love your tip with putty knife. I never heard that one before.
You said it best: practice. Super clean, great painting, really pro.
I like the 1" square head brush; holds a lot of loaded paint so once you get in the groove on a line, the paint lasts forever and you can just keep going.
I painted professionally for a few years. Never seen your tip, but it makes really good sense given my experience. Retired now, but will try that text time I paint. Thanks.
I believe this is a method that will work for me! I get blinded by the white after awhile and it can be hard to distinguish wall/ceiling line. I'll be able to see the line created by the knife and have a guide to follow now! Thank you so very much!
Yes, there is something about cutting in to a white-on-white corner that gets me sort of disoriented for a moment, this gives you something to focus on.
Good job! You learn something on each gig. All the best to you.
Thank you for this tip . I just started painting and I appreciate the advice on cutting in . Great job .
Here is another tip. Give me a call, gorgeous.
Never used the Benji Moore products... they are a bit pricy, and I always felt they were somewhat plastic-like. I always used my 5n1 to smooth a line along the knockdown, the 5n1 is always in my side pocket, and never leaves my side, my fist boss would send people home for not having: A) 5n1, B) Rag, C) Painter whites. Another good trick is to use a square sanding block, and force a corner into the top edge of the wall where the ceiling meets the wall. This works better on the wall before you prime, to cut into the knock-down plaster, and also gain an extra edge that the wall finishers didn't leave. You are the FIRST painter on CZcams that I didn't tag as a crappy handyman who THOUGHT he knew how to paint! You are right about tape, and about the only reason I have ever needed tape was to mask off the baseboards and chair rails to keep the roller sprinkles off them!
The guy that taught me 20 + yes ago was like that too. Always white, always knife in?back pocket. Had to paint a straight line vertical and horizontal in the middle of a wall, cut in with no tape. Even had me take apart my first sprayer and put back together. ( so would really know my tools like the back of my hand and know how to repair when your back up rig is needed by Monday.
Been painting for years on my own home and rental properties, and that is perhaps the best tip I’ve seen for achieving a nice line between the ceiling and wall. I also breathe in slowly before applying the brush then gradually exhale when brushing. As you say, “no rush.”
thanks for your answer.
#2 pencil does the same thing
My dad taught me the same breathing technique when painting. Makes a difference!
Very clear demo. Great explanations and execution of painting!
WOW. That looks really good, dude. I'm going to use that technique from now on. Awesome!
I’m a novice painter (as a matter of fact, I hate painting 😆) but I learned that it’s a lot less work “free handing” like this video than putting up tape. Putting up tape just makes a mess for me. I learned how to apply the right amount of paint, how to angle the brush, how to apply the brush strokes and how to be ambidextrous just like in this video. Just like he said, takes time and patience
I can relate to what you're saying, when it comes to taping. I can definitely tape, but I hate wasting product like that, especially when I know that, if you take your time at cutting in, and with painting the trim, you can get as good of a result, as someone who tapes. I'm not against the people that tape, but I guess I just don't understand why they can't take the time to learn how to be accurate in their cutting in, and in painting the trim, that's all.
Have a great day, and when it comes to painting (Or anything else!), ROCK ON!!!
they probably hate painting as much as you do lol that's why they tape so they can be really fast at the ceiling and at the trim.
Awesome tip! It will definitely make my next painting job easier and more professional looking. Thanks for sharing.
I was taught this trick by a union painter, and I have been using it ever since. Its great to use when painting dark colors next to light.
Looks great man! Will give it a shot. Thanks for that tip, looks awesome.
Painted my whole life. Worked for paint contractors while in college in the late 1960s. Learned the business from them and ended up as a successful painting contractor for over 50 yrs. Air compressors and paint pots were still in wide use when I started painting, so were oil base enamels. I went all airless during the 70s and never looked back. I also learned to cut in with either hand and tried many different ways to get clean lines. Good video.
What does this have to do with anything?
I think any painter worth their salt needs to be able to cut in with both hands. I'm a leftie, so I had to learn to use my right the same way. There are always areas where you have to swap hands! I really liked this guys cutting in - I think with painters it's kind of a signature thing. We pride ourselves on a nice straight line.
@@sleddy01 damn son he's just sharing his experience and said the video's good, chill out
@@wassupjg That's all the world is anymore. People hanging their opinions on anything that will hold it. At least segue into me me me.
Nice cutting in, and boy the spray job on the woodwork looks good. Great vid.
Appreciate the tip. I'll try this the next time I'm painting.
The trick is great bc the 1-inch knife making the line lends a visual for you while being patient & moving along.
Great work 😎✌
I worked for a high end painter/cabinet finisher for about 7 years. Before getting the job I was ignorant to painting.. there is a difference between painting and being a professional painter. My boss could see a crooked cut line or a holiday from the driveway.. I learned there is a technique to straight cut lines. Chinex soft bristle. And just like when target shooting.. exhaling when painting keeps your cuts straight. At least that's what worked for me. We never used tape for cut lines. That's homeowner shit. Lol
ha ha. yes exhaling does help steady your hand. My problem is I go so far that I forget to inhale again. lol
Tape is for people who can't paint.
oh wow you didnt use tape.
Guess what alot of people use tape and get perfect lines.
@@markanthony3275 Nonsense. Tape is to save time.
Cutting in with a brush takes ages, is more tiring and will not even get a line as straight as tape.
@@qasmb1546 A professional painter can cut in a kitchen , without tape , in about twenty minutes. How long would it take to tape all the cupboard edges and fixtures in a kitchen, and then have to cut it in ? I've never seen any of the professional painters I worked with use tape. One guy could pass his brush all the way around a door knob in two movements, and never leave any paint on the door knob.
You seem pretty knowledgeable. Purdy brushes are good, but you really should check out a Corona Cortez. They are comparable in price but are of much higher quality. They hold more paint and release it in such a smooth and consistent way. Cutting the wall at the ceiling would be a perfect way to compare the two brushes. Do one wall with a Purdy and do the next with a Corona and I guarantee you will feel the difference.
been a painter decorator for 40yrs love my job its just everthing that surounds it im in the uk tho ..
Cutting: perfection. Thanks for the great video!
45 years' experience here, I use a 3'' wall brush or a 4' wall brush if I can get them. Perfect cut line, 3 times faster. I brushout door bucks faster than you can tape and spray them. We were taught the right way buy guys that were around before rollers were invented.
Thanks, I know a real mechanic when I see one.
If you're swinging a purdy brush, then that's all the proof I need that you're not a painter. 1/2 stock, if that, one wedge and what the hell is up with that angle thing?
I used to cut in 6 over 6's with a 2-1/2 flat, hell, we had to cut the glass on a ladder, braking the cuts on our knee and using a speging gun to shoot those diamond points into the mullions. In those days, it was the painter that installed the glass, that's right.
We were PROFESSIONALS.
Thats a neat tip. Beautiful finish on doors and trims, excellent work.
Ok... not bad. Not bad at all! Great work!
Also:You mentioned about being able to do your cut-in work with both hands. You're right-It takes a lot of practice, and caution. I can do that, too, but it took a long time for me to get the feel of things, in that particular part of the job.
As I said:Great work! I'm only too happy to subscribe!
Thank you! I didn't realize I needed to paint under the edge first.
Most painters I see are the worst, thanks for doing a bang up job
great video and a new tip i never thought of!! thanks very much i think you did a great job with this vid!
Yes great tip , that's what I do or use a H rated lead pencil ✏️ if the knife doesn't work. Great guide for perfect straight lines 👌
Looks good Sal 😁
I use tape, a small roller & then fill in with a 1 inch soft brush. Brilliant finish & saves me loads of time.
This is the missing link I’ve been looking for!
I imagine the line serves also to be a little bit of a border than traps some so it doesn’t seep upwards.
My ongoing dilemma is always the ceiling or walls first argument.
Having two contrasting colors makes this a never ending back and forth battle of touching up each color until my eyes stop telling me it’s acceptable or not.
My original plan on the rooms I’m currently working on was white on white. But because the casing was my most important piece of the project, and it had to be white, the walls had to be done another color my simple scheme was not going to be pleasing.
What surprised me though was that the top shelf Sherman Williams paint (grey) still revealed countless teensy white specks after it dried. My first coat is (except on new work) usually mostly acceptable. Hate admitting this because it’s bad form. The second coat goes really quickly with good paint, but it is still a bit of a hassle.
But I’m certainly trying your tip when I get back to the ladder this afternoon.
I like your knife trick, I'll be using that 👌 Try turning your brush so you are using the side bristles more rather than just the tip(not completely parallel to your line, but much closer to parallel than perpendicular).. Once you get a feel for it, you'll notice your lines will be even straighter and you'll be able to go longer per dip. The way the bristles are installed in the brush makes the paint flow from center to edge, and heel to edge... using more of the edge will allow you to empty the brush more efficiently without having to work the bristles back and forth as many times to refill the tip, thus creating straighter lines faster and more easily. Also when trying to get away with 1 coat, where the color is barely covering: on your final pass, turn the brush farther past parallel, so the heel is closer to your line than the tip. This will release even more paint, thus better covering the area near the line where the roller cannot get. The things you learn after 40yrs in the biz :D
Learning and trying to explain so people can understand what you are trying to do are two different skills and abilities. They do not always go hand in hand.
Yah
do you like 2.5" or 3" angled brushes for cutting using your method? I feel like a 2.5" would be perfect for your method.
@@MV-wb2cz For me, it mostly depends on how many tight corners or trim are in need of cutting.. If it's mostly long straight sections with minimal corners/trim, I use 3". If there's lots of corners/trim, I go with 2.5".
Great tip with lightly scoring a line to follow. I’m a novice and struggling to get a perfect line but I’m determined and will succeed eventually.
Great tip I can’t stand cutting in ( I’m useless at it ) it’s so difficult getting that lovely straight neat line especially if ur using a Dark colour next to a white ceiling and if u get it wrong it looks awful in the past I have used tape ( frog tape) and it did work with no bleed through but it takes so long to put that on neatly I’ve seen on you tube specialist cutting in rollers I might give them a go on my next project and c if they make it easier
Excellent tip. I used to paint, it's so tedious but your project is looking good..
works well w the pointed part of 5 IN 1 also. learned it in Sarasota. I call it the florida trick.Caulking a super small bead along the edge of the tape will help prevent bleeding through.
Painter for 30 years. We normally just freehand the cut-in...I'm glad you didn't go right up to the edge to cut in...But, in production painting, ya gotta move the paint...it's a one or two stroke process...Especially with flat...And, naturally depending on the surface roughness...
Great tip! Thanks for sharing!
Brilliant prep work. A true skilled tradesman.
Woooow a painter who actually cares!!! Good freaking job man! I'd hire you in a heart beat!
I use a knife like that but more to make sure there’s no loose crud or bumps to throw off the cutting. Prefer a hard to find square cut 2 1/2 sash brush. You can reverse direction with a twitch of the wrist. Also you can flip it over if paint is sagging out and continue on. Your correctly cutting just shy of the mud cove at the intersection of wall and ceiling. Good visuals!
I use a 12” drywall knife as a ceiling guard and I can fly with the brush. Quick wipe of the knife every once in a while to keep a clean edge. Easy, quick, cheap, washable and no waste like tape.
When you use the knife, are you angling it at a 45 degree angle or slightly biased towards the ceiling or wall to prevent paint from trying to bleed over? Thanks!
I'm no pro painter but that's what I do and it works better and faster than this "technique"!
I think your advice is best for the beginner or first time DIY person like me. :) Cut in with brush is for someone who has skill or experience with painting.
Exactly how I taught myself how to do it ! , Glad Im not the only one doing it .
Danggggggggg !!!!! right hand, left hand while holding the camera too !!👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 never seen this tip before will try it for sure!
This blew my mind. Awesome tip. Thank you so much.
Awesome work! Thanks for the video
Damn! Now I have to redo the Bedrooms! Great tip. Tx.
Nice job! I’m going to try it, wish me luck I’m going to need it!
I was a painter for 20 years and I’m telling you a 3” brush with just the right angles is enough and when used properly acrillic pain is bled perfectly into trim
A trick I use if I tape: cut first with smaller brush using ceiling paint (to seal tape), wait a few minutes for paint to get tacky, then cut again with the wall paint using larger brush. That way any paint that bleeds under the tape will be same color as ceiling. A good trick for people who are not pressed for time that don't paint a lot.
Been in the game for awhile. Great tutorial on cutting in. The knife trick pretty slick. Just eas it down light touch sneak right on up to that line and repeat that to yourself the rest the day and you should be okay 👍 Good Luck and happy painting 🖼
I'll be honest I was stressing out a little just watching you, I don't remember exactly but I don't think I was breathing the whole time watching you paint 😆
Great trick!
Thanks for the advice, keep up the great work.
I can't believe you tape the door handles instead of removing them. That Advance looks super sharp anyway.
Their is more than one way of doing good professional painting job when it comes to cutting in and all the other bits involved. Each to their own. At end of the day it's all about providing a neat tidy job with no streaks, runs and not hitting woodwork or ceilings.
Thanks Brother , I have a job coming up for a good Neighbor ,No Charge you know ..and I am a roofer lol So Thanks for the Lesson .I needed it
Your brush technique is similar to how a car striping painter uses the brush: slowly, with full bristle with pressure contacting the surface- the tip and upper edge will 'track', following your movement. Draw from left to right, using the shoulder, not the wrist or elbow for a smooth line. Pre-painting just below the edge ensures a consistent application with the tip creating the edge.
Dont care what others say , havent seen their line. Yours is nice. Good job.
Nice to see how the pros do it...I hate painting, rather be beat with a rubber hose than paint !!
But Job Well Done !! Thanks for the tip !!
Find a sadistic painter and you will both be happy?
You can thank me later when you are recovering from your beating in your freshly painted home.
My trick is similar
No putty knife
No tape
I lay my brush parallel with the edge and lay a smooth edge in corner
I also use the angle of the brush in the corner
Try it, works great
He's cutting in textured walls, that line he makes with the knife gives him a smooth surface at the joint.
Its called scribing. You basically create a small groove, or dam in the drywall for your bristles to ride along and make it more difficult for the paint to go beyond it, as long as you're somewhat careful.
this is a great little trick ,,,its been around for ages ,,,,,,,,,,,,,just clarify not to push to hard. if you do you will rip through drywall tape in most cases
The best tip for me is to take the tip of your brush angel it like this \ or like this / not like this I or like this - then push to the corner till the tip touches the corner and do not push the brush into the wall u want it to be almost how it normally looks should and it should give u the line your looking for u just softly gotta run that brush tip through the corner and boom
Very underrated video, I appreciate the nice attitude and helpful tips.
Personally I got cocky and tried cutting in without tape and that was a huge mistake. But I’ll try your technique and hopefully i can get it right someday 😂
Thank you. The putty knife line is a brilliant idea.
I started a painting business in February this year. I’ve had opportunities to increase my skill and really step into the trade, but I think I made a mistake. I stopped cutting in with a brush and instead started doing everything with a 4 inch roller for a while. I’ve gotten much faster at masking but I still feel like I should go back to the brush.
You the man!! Thanks for the video.
The fact that there isn't a brush with a masking attachment on the market is pretty strange. Seems like it would be an easy thing to develop.
Very helpful trick, many thanks
I like this idea. I use the tape caulk method for all cuts. It works fantastic for me
nice work. I paint at the schools, prepping takes lots of time. my question is, do the professional painters like you tape inside corners to get a perfect straight line, when you have two different colors. I was told to use a paint shield. when I'm done painting, I go back and look for minor mistakes.
Interesting question. Shame it wasn't answered. :(
I know that the putty knife and line is a way for people to try and achieve a straight line but I don't use that method on the rounded over corners because it leaves that upper part of the ceiling color half round over on the wall to be seen [which is very noticeable and unsightly in my full belief] as well you have to have extremely steady hands to get a true straight to the eyeball line so i avoid all this by following the upper half of the rounded over corner line instead of in the middle [where your putty knife line is located] or the bottom half of the rounded over corner line... The way to get the straightest to the eye cut lines when dealing with rounded corners... No putty knife line needed and no tape needed and you eliminate the upper rounded over part that shows the ceiling color onto the wall side... Just straight open hand cutting and your eyeball sight... By doing it that way it removes the rounded and gap look between where the ceiling meets the wall... When completed the ceiling line where it meets the wall is straight like a 45 degree line looks straight when cut in... Instead of the bottom half or the middle half [line] of the rounded corner leaving the gap and the ceiling line on the wall and in most cases uneven cut lines from trying to perform a miracle...Fast and easy and gets the job done without any different effort or set up than when you normally cut a corner line... By bottom and upper round over line I am referring to the exact spot where the round [surface] ends and the flat [surface] begins...
I used to use a 4" brush to cut-out windows, walls, doors, etc.. My friend and I painted a 2 bedroom apartment in 4 hours.
4” brush is really awkward for me. I like the Wooster 3” ultra firm for cutting snd the 1/2 nap Pro dooZ for rolling
Super easy to cut in by hand. The biggest key is make sure your brush has plenty of paint on it.
Great trick, thank you and good luck to you .
That tip about removing tape as soon as you finish the cut in is like having money in the bank. Paint, then peel the tape, then take your break.
Yup, just let the paint set a bit....the peel.
I still prefer the brush cut in.
professional painter here, and i like this. I usually watch these sorts of videos with a very critical eye, but yer this one, i am going to try it today. I will report back if its bullshit lol
Well?
Definitely not an expert painter but your on your way, definitely chose the right brush though, those are my favorite by far
Nice job site, did you stage it for the video or is that a normal setting? I just put my brushes down after 40 years in the trade. After hearing your tape comment I`ll add that when doing an accent wall and I knew the client would expect perfection I would do it as follows, Tape the wall then using the adjoining wall or ceiling color apply a little of that color on the accent wall to be painted, then that color bleeds under the tape but it is undetectable as its the same wall/ceiling color, it also seals the tape so when you cut it with the accent color it creates a sharp line that cannot be duplicated by hand, I let the paint dry completely before removing. It is not a practical everyday process but it is worth the time when needed. Keep up the nice work ....
Yes we use that technique as well look out for a future video on the taping up for cut ins!!
another reason this works (to paint to within a few mm fron the ceiling) is because of light effects…. at that junction of the ceiling and the wall the contrast is always going to trick the eye to not see the actual line that the two surfaces meet, but instead it merely sees the two different amount of light reflected from two surfaces that are 90° opposed.
Awesome job man, you made that as simple and effective as anyone on CZcams. That paint is solid
Gotta let the paint "roll” up to the texture. Keep the brush loaded. But not dripping. I always dip and then slap the brush against the sides of my cut pail. Gotta cut both ways. I’ve brush cut tons of walls with a "knock down" ceiling texture. If you don’t know what you’re doing it can be intimidating, try it in a closet 1st to get the hang of it, then onto the rest of the house. Thing about it is, if you get a little paint on the texture, no biggie, come back with the same ceiling paint and touch it up. It’s not the end of the world. Practice & Patience, you’ll be fine.
Absolutely right except I use a Wooster 3” straight brush with a tip of paint on the top edge and then cut in don’t let it cure
Two other ideas:
1. If painting a new house, three color scheme (Baseboards, walls, ceilings), spray the trim as you have, cover trim and then spray walls, cover walls, spray ceilings. Perfect lines every time, and maybe a little quicker than hand painting.
2. Tape on ceiling, but then put a very thin bid of CLEAR caulk, and cut in right away. Do second coat, and take off tape. No bleed through under the tape.
Sometimes a small area I will free hand. Seems like time stops. The tape and caulk has made several troublesome jobs go fairly quickly for me. I've gotten away with the Alex caulking in white (tho clear is a great idea). You gotta wipe that down to nearly nothing and then brush it on like yo mamma calling. Then I just pull the tape quick. Can do to 8 feet in about 10 minutes but without the fatigue that cutting in gives me. Great advice bud
Paint won't bleed under tape if you first paint the tape edge with the same color you're painting over or with a transparent media to seal the edge. Laser sharp results.
Thank you for this very good putty knife tip with cutting in lines.
Nice work bro
I’ve started using a Purdy semi oval 3” for cutting in walls. Seems like it makes it a lot easier.
Oh yea it’s way easier
Thank you, great tip!