WayOutWest Blowinblog A tease but no hint :) Suggest... use shortest bar/chain combo that provides the maximum depth needed, use ripping chain (10° vs std. 25° angled cutting teeth) for smoother cut, prefer electric for less vibration, etc. as MW mentioned, and lastly, I'd wrap pipe with thin, hard plastic (eg, strips cut from juice or milk container) to eliminate any play in horizontal carriage pipes. Love the clever use of levers and foot operation. Well done!
You ave such a creative and inventive mind, I really enjoy watching you build things like the scaffold work bench and lumbar mill from a car! I'm slowly building my own little homestead on 1 acre in Co Laois. Thank you for the videos! :)
That morticer works well. I like when home made gadgets work so well. I make gates for a living and I have only one minor niggle about your design where you can your braces should always be in compression and not tension. Think of it as pushing the gate up as opposed to trying to pull it up. It's a very well made build.
+Adam Lynch Thanks Adam - I've made them both ways over the years and decided that tension works best for me. It's not pushing the joint apart. But each to their own.
Love the mortiser. That is a great way to tackle a heavy wood project and with your needs around the homestead I am sure this comes in handy in many areas. I am sorry to have to point out one flaw in an otherwise wonderful piece of work. The diagonal brace is wrong. The goal of the brace is to pickup the weight of the extending gate and transfer it to the lower hinge. There is a great deal of weight cantilevered out away from the top hinge and a diagonal down from the opening side to the bottom hinge will support this weight and greatly increase the life of the gate. Trying to pull up as your current diagonal support does will increase the load on the top hinge and shorten the life of the gate. Turn the gate around and hang it from the other side will probably double its life and still allow the opening to swing the same. I hope I explained that clearly. This is a common error and many people wonder why such an important part of the fence fails so soon.
David Harris Thanks very much, David, for your thoughts. I have made lots of gates over the years and have often pondered the merits of one design over the other. I agree, of course, with your analysis of this one - the weight is mostly hanging from the top of the hanging post side. Having the diagonal brace running the other way, the weight would mostly be to the bottom of that side, as you say - but so would the rain water. In my experience it's the joint at the bottom of the hanging post that fails first - especially with the diagonal running as you suggest. There's another reason I wouldn't go with your design - the weight would be pulling the joints apart instead of compressing them, as happens with our gate. But really, I think we're both right - and both wrong! There isn't a perfect solution either way and there are pros and cons with both. You make them your way and I'll make them my way and we'll both be happy. How's that?!
Timber is not steel. Steel gates work in tension. Timber gates and doors work in compression. So you have built this gate incorrectly. You are not inventing this. Carpentry has well established rules that many young carpenters do not even understand because they are not taught enough of the very basics. Any apprentice would fail on this project!
Sorry but David Harris and Patrick Muldowney are right . I worked with many old time joiners 50 years ago and if I made a mistake like that I would have been laughed out of the workshop, sorry.
Wow, your mortiser is one fine machine, and the gate you made in this video certainly is handsome. The workmanship you folks put into everything you construct is awe-inspiring. Thank you for sharing this :). Mrs. Tc
Not sure you'll ever see this question but here goes: Should the diagonal on the gate go the other way - bottom hinge corner to top unhinged corner? The reason I ask is, I made a gate for my garage drive entrance and a wood worker told me about 'gate drop' he said, you have to carry the weight of the gate to the bottom of the hinge side and it will hold it up better with no gate twist or drop. I am just binge watching your vids and I am amazed by your incredible ingenuity.
You'll find proponents for both ways, George. If you can get everything really tight it shouldn't matter which way it goes - my way stops gate-drop too if you look at it. I do it this way so the rain doesn't run into the hanging side of the frame. Good luck!
@@WayOutWestx2 Yes, it certainly looks robust enough and I doubt it's going to fall over anytime soon. I do like things you do and the ways you find to do them. Well done sir.
Nice job with the mortise chainsaw! But you have the cross brace on the wrong way…..it should go from the bottom of the hinge side up to the lock side. Not having a go …just pointing it out.
I've made lots over the years and tried both ways, Richard. The triangulation is the same, of course, but this is the best because it doesn't draw water into the shutting post. Try it?
Lower the top guide on your band saw to as close to the 'job' piece as possible...this will reduce the tendency that the blade has to go a wandering and make the job easier.
This has been discussed quite a bit. Both ways are valid - I prefer this way but lots would swear the other way is better. Either way, the gate's still doing it's job.
Compost Wise I don't know for sure, Compost Wise, but I imagine it would struggle unless the wood was green still. Worth a try if I ever get any (Very little available here..)
Boldten right. although it depends on the length of the gate. You need the extra thickness for a long gate, but a small gate might look too heavy with fat boards, maybe?
Love that chainsaw mortiser. Really, the best cheap way to cut mortises like that. Though I think I'd use an electric chainsaw.
...wow!
The right tool for the job. Well done.
Matthias Wandel Thanks Matthias. I'm thinking about an exciting new development for it - watch this space!
***** Thanks Tom!
WayOutWest Blowinblog A tease but no hint :) Suggest... use shortest bar/chain combo that provides the maximum depth needed, use ripping chain (10° vs std. 25° angled cutting teeth) for smoother cut, prefer electric for less vibration, etc. as MW mentioned, and lastly, I'd wrap pipe with thin, hard plastic (eg, strips cut from juice or milk container) to eliminate any play in horizontal carriage pipes.
Love the clever use of levers and foot operation. Well done!
This is what I love about youtube ....free exchange of ideas and information ...I gotta make me a rig like that ..
Well done !!!!
The part around 2:19 with the homely home in the background always makes me smile.
Homemade and Chainsaw two words I never thought should go together but respect for great job done
You ave such a creative and inventive mind, I really enjoy watching you build things like the scaffold work bench and lumbar mill from a car! I'm slowly building my own little homestead on 1 acre in Co Laois. Thank you for the videos! :)
Good for you! *WAVING FROM COUNTY CORK*
who knew a farm yard fence could also double as a piece of art. That is a job well done
Have to agree, that is one smart way to cut a mortice and has shown me how to make a 5 bar gate.
Good job Tim!
You are a clever and resourceful man.
Lovely job. Great to see the mortiser in action.
wow...amazing control & lovely finish too.
Brilliant Tim. Always an inspiration.
Thanks, Randall
Love it, thanks 👍
Wow. Well done. Great craftsmanship
That morticer works well. I like when home made gadgets work so well. I make gates for a living and I have only one minor niggle about your design where you can your braces should always be in compression and not tension. Think of it as pushing the gate up as opposed to trying to pull it up. It's a very well made build.
+Adam Lynch Thanks Adam - I've made them both ways over the years and decided that tension works best for me. It's not pushing the joint apart. But each to their own.
Correct
Adam Lynch
You are exactly right. I too have been making doors and gates for years, braces always in tension.
Great workmanship
Very clever and beautiful gate!
The next 10 generations of your family won't have to worry about replacing those gate posts. :p
Great video! Love the way the soundtrack cuts in and out, and the speedy bits. Off to the farm tomorrow to make myself a hilbilly mortiser!
pure genius
You have some awesome tools!
Beautiful job!
Thanks, Sharon!
Love the mortiser. That is a great way to tackle a heavy wood project and with your needs around the homestead I am sure this comes in handy in many areas.
I am sorry to have to point out one flaw in an otherwise wonderful piece of work. The diagonal brace is wrong. The goal of the brace is to pickup the weight of the extending gate and transfer it to the lower hinge. There is a great deal of weight cantilevered out away from the top hinge and a diagonal down from the opening side to the bottom hinge will support this weight and greatly increase the life of the gate. Trying to pull up as your current diagonal support does will increase the load on the top hinge and shorten the life of the gate. Turn the gate around and hang it from the other side will probably double its life and still allow the opening to swing the same.
I hope I explained that clearly. This is a common error and many people wonder why such an important part of the fence fails so soon.
David Harris Thanks very much, David, for your thoughts. I have made lots of gates over the years and have often pondered the merits of one design over the other. I agree, of course, with your analysis of this one - the weight is mostly hanging from the top of the hanging post side. Having the diagonal brace running the other way, the weight would mostly be to the bottom of that side, as you say - but so would the rain water. In my experience it's the joint at the bottom of the hanging post that fails first - especially with the diagonal running as you suggest.
There's another reason I wouldn't go with your design - the weight would be pulling the joints apart instead of compressing them, as happens with our gate.
But really, I think we're both right - and both wrong! There isn't a perfect solution either way and there are pros and cons with both. You make them your way and I'll make them my way and we'll both be happy. How's that?!
Timber is not steel. Steel gates work in tension. Timber gates and doors work in compression. So you have built this gate incorrectly. You are not inventing this. Carpentry has well established rules that many young carpenters do not even understand because they are not taught enough of the very basics. Any apprentice would fail on this project!
Sorry but David Harris and Patrick Muldowney are right . I worked with many old time joiners 50 years ago and if I made a mistake like that I would have been laughed out of the workshop, sorry.
CLEVER GUY GREAT VIDEOS
nice work, for the load transfer either flip the gate (upside down) or hinge it on the other end
GOOD JOB, FINE. CONGRATULATION! (I am from Brazil)
Brilliant !
Great Job !!!
Wow, your mortiser is one fine machine, and the gate you made in this video certainly is handsome. The workmanship you folks put into everything you construct is awe-inspiring. Thank you for sharing this :). Mrs. Tc
That is proper! 👍
Nice gate. Nice design.
Larryd1001 Thanks Larry!
Nicely done and very beautiful! I hope to make one someday. Thanks for sharing.
Berny Hi Thanks Berny!
Great job guys. My gate is falling apart so maybe will try to build one myself. Great and simple. Greetings from Roscommon ;-)
***** thanks Hristo - good luck with the gate!
WayOutWest Blowinblog I've to wait for the spring or whatever better weather. FREEZING out there :-)
Fantastic, THANKS!!
Not sure you'll ever see this question but here goes: Should the diagonal on the gate go the other way - bottom hinge corner to top unhinged corner? The reason I ask is, I made a gate for my garage drive entrance and a wood worker told me about 'gate drop' he said, you have to carry the weight of the gate to the bottom of the hinge side and it will hold it up better with no gate twist or drop. I am just binge watching your vids and I am amazed by your incredible ingenuity.
You'll find proponents for both ways, George. If you can get everything really tight it shouldn't matter which way it goes - my way stops gate-drop too if you look at it. I do it this way so the rain doesn't run into the hanging side of the frame. Good luck!
@@WayOutWestx2 Yes, it certainly looks robust enough and I doubt it's going to fall over anytime soon. I do like things you do and the ways you find to do them. Well done sir.
Fantastic build mate :-)
Rob Bob Thanks Rob!
Very wonderfully clever!!! :-D
Bonito trabajo
wonderful , we to are smallholding in the west of ireland just discovered your u tube site now subscribed
Welcome, neighbour!
grand job
Hey came out great!!!
+Tommy Walker Thanks!
Wow nice gate
pam p Thank you : - )
👍👏 thank you
That's a fine gate for a test. I found good tips in David S comment from 2 months ago. Great idea you realised. :-)) happy4uall
nicely done
Paul Mcguire Thanks Paul!
Good job >
Very nice!
dan marshall cheers Dan!
Nice pice of work
Peter Gavin thanks Peter!
Nice work :-)
Nice piece of work, but I'm sure I'm not the first to point out, that 5 bar gate only has 4 bars!!!
you need to count the diagonal too : - )
And another modification I made to my Chop saw Log splitter.
Log splitting cross saw
Nice job with the mortise chainsaw! But you have the cross brace on the wrong way…..it should go from the bottom of the hinge side up to the lock side. Not having a go …just pointing it out.
I've made lots over the years and tried both ways, Richard. The triangulation is the same, of course, but this is the best because it doesn't draw water into the shutting post. Try it?
Smart smart...
WOW!
Nice bit of work Isn't it a four bar gate though?
Thanks, but you have to count the diagonal as well...
Lower the top guide on your band saw to as close to the 'job' piece as possible...this will reduce the tendency that the blade has to go a wandering and make the job easier.
Fab gate, is the brace in the wrong place?? shouldn't it be from top left to bottom right (hinge side)
This has been discussed quite a bit. Both ways are valid - I prefer this way but lots would swear the other way is better. Either way, the gate's still doing it's job.
Way Out West Blow-in blog the proof is in the pudding I guess! Good work.
Heel to toe
It is braced wrong. Timber needs to be in compression, Steel needs to be in tension.
OK, I see it now. Great job.
Check this out..
Chop Saw Log Splitter
nicely done ....apart from the nails lol
Great job and tool. Thank you! ... I wonder to ask, how it would work on hard timber?
Compost Wise I don't know for sure, Compost Wise, but I imagine it would struggle unless the wood was green still. Worth a try if I ever get any (Very little available here..)
What size of timber are you using
How thick are the boards you are using? I'm planing to make one myself and thanks a lot for the video!
Boldten I think they were about 4 cm (inch-and-a-quarter?) - but I think I would make them a little thicker next time
WayOutWest Blowinblog Ok, thanks. I have wood available in 4,7cm or 2,2x10. So if you were me, you whould choose the 4,7x10, right?
Boldten right. although it depends on the length of the gate. You need the extra thickness for a long gate, but a small gate might look too heavy with fat boards, maybe?
This a four bar gate not a five bar gate. The brace is a brace and not a bar.
Perhaps you're right, Mike, but this is the way I was taught to make them many years ago.
The diagonal is done wrong, lower end should be on the hinge side.
Nope - both ways are correct.
@@WayOutWestx2 one way is better