How to Repair a Rusty car Door
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- čas přidán 25. 01. 2022
- If you want a lasting repair then my advice is to do this way, as long as you protect the inside weld with paint and cavity wax it will last a long time. Always wear the appropriate safety gear when carrying out work like this.
Amazing job you did there, on what was to most folks a scrap door 😎👏
Thank you 😊
Amazing seeing such craftmanship on what is basically a bread and butter workhorse.
Thank you 😊
Damn that work was clean! Glad to know my door is repairable, not in as bad shape as this, so hopefully it can get fixed. Such a nice way of working and explaining altogether, cheers mate!
Thanks very much. Appreciate the kind comment. 😊
Very nice job Ben.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
Simple tools, really great job, love it!👍
I didn't even know this was possible. Dang! Learned something new!
Made that look a lot easier than it was, good job.
Thank you 👌
I’m impressed by your work!
Thanks for sharing!
Cheers from Sweden!
Thank you 😊
Nicely done!
Just found your channel, great work, well done, have subscribed.
Thanks for the comment and subscription. 🙂
Lovely job!
Thank you for the comment 👍
Excellent work, can’t even tell it’s a non factory part
Thanks very much 😊
My golly I wish I was that competent.
WOOW that looks amazing! Well done there
Thank you. 👍
Excellent job, Congrats!
Thank you very much! 👍
Wonderful job🎉
Excellent job 👍🏻
Thank you
Brilliantly done.
Thank you 😊
Years off practice there cracking job mate you make it look easy lol
Thanks Andrew. 🙂
Great job
Thank you. 👍
Fabulous!
Great channel and amazing content. Can you maybe guide on how to fix pinholes in welds pls as it's a real struggle. Well done once again 😊
Hi and thanks.
Pin holes in welds is something that is a pain, if conditions are perfect you won't get any but there are some conditions that make them much more frequent. Fixing them is just a case of finding them with a torch and marking the location with a pen, then just weld where the hole is. I turn the welder up a notch as this will improve the penetration.
Things that cause pinholes are:- welding rusted steel, if you can get to the back of the repair clean that off too. Clean steel both sides will weld nicely.
Don't use gas-less mig wire and if you're not then make sure the gas flow rate is high enough and you are using the correct gas. Many people don't use enough amperage when butt welding for fear of burning through but higher amps with a shorter weld duration will reduce the likely hood of pinholes.
Hello Ben, great work on that car there. I haven not found many videos showcasing this kind of repair. What settings did you use to spotweld? And where can i get one of dem edge formers for sheetmetal?
Hi and thanks. The welder is set to just below the maximum amps before blowing through. The numerical settings are different for every brand of welder. Mine is set to number 3 out of 6 on a 200 amp welder, I don't know what amperage setting 3 is. Just set it as high as you can to get maximum penetration, test weld a piece first and find the setting that works for you. If it's too high you will just blow holes.
The edge former is known as a bead roller, you can buy them on eBay for less than £200.
Almost every door on a ranger that I just bought looks like this... time to get cracking!
Oh my! Hope it goes ok.
Same
Cracking job, but I have a question.
When you’re scribing the outer skin from behind, did you then add 20mm on to be able to fold the edge?
Just scratching my head 😂
Hi, no I didn't have to add any material to the scribe line. It doesn't have a folded edge, its single skin so that was the finished size. Unusual I know but that's how they are. Hope I've understood your question correctly.
Beautiful job bro
Appreciate the Comment, cheers 👍
Bro you all job very good bro you what country I am from India
Thank you. I'm in the uk, quite a long distance from India. I like the fact CZcams makes the world a smaller place. Are you working on cars ?
Bro my gas welder
I have not tried gas welding but imagine it is hard to do. I have got a tig welder which I use for aluminium and some steel work but gas welding is the preferred method for many car restoration businesses. I use a mig welder because it's fast and suitable for the type of work I'm doing.
I get sent a lot of doors off the vehicle they belong to - makes for quite the nightmare trying to ensure they go back into the ope they came out of.. seeing as the ope isn't "here" when I'm repairing them. People arrive in with a van full of doors & go "Here, Smorty Clogs, fix these..." Same goes for bonnets, bootlids etc etc - I get a lot of panels that have been stripped off just chucked at me. Some are silly complex too - I dread those tbh. I never have a clue if they will fit back on.
I did a particularly complex bonnet off an old Ford for a chap - absolute nightmare of curves & swoops with sod-all to go off as most of it was in tatters & all I had was the bonnet itself - the car was sat in a paint booth somewhere else & a replacement bonnet was unobtainium. Endless hours of work involved. Guy collected it & heads off.
He lands back in 3 weeks later & goes "I want my money back, it didn't fit at all..." Deadly serious face on. I was thinking "Didn't think it would tbh, Pal" in my own mind.. whereby he goes "Only kidding, it fit mint, I've another one for you to do in the back of the van.."
How churney was my stomach at the brief thought of refunding for all them hours? All of it. Absolutely all of it. I hate just having loose panels, speaking of which, I have a Mk 1 Transit back door to start tomorrow. Just the door. Nothing else to go off. How rusty is it? All the rusty & it's an oddball special variant that can't be bought for love nor money anywhere in Europe. Just stripping the hardware, I had to weld washers & a nut to every single fastener in order to get them off. Will it fit back into the ope when done? Who knows, but fingies cwossed. Thoughts & Prayers appreciated.
Nightmare, you obviously have a talent for fixing panels blind.
People have offered to bring just panels to me also, I just say don't bring me a panel, bring me the whole car, then I can fix it.
Actually a customer phoned today with a landrover bulkhead which I said a couple months ago I need it on the vehicle to repair it. He's removed it wants to bring it to me, for some reason I said ok I'll fix it off the vehicle. The pressure of the phone call caught off guard I suppose. It makes a hard job so much harder.
@@bensclassicbodywork I'm just too poor to be in the position of giving refunds - that focusses the mind on making sure it's as right as possible going out. :-) No great talent involved - just necessity. :-) & templates... loads of templates...
@@jamesward5721 No, giving a refund would not be fair on you. We would never choose to repair panels like this. Customers are asking us to take a big risk and they shouldn't do it. It's a difficult situation.
@@bensclassicbodywork you probably know as well as I do that EVERY time you repair a rusty vehicle, it's a risk. People have unrealistic expectations (some) - there's ALWAYS the chance you won't be able to complete a repair as it proves impossible - even if you only discover that after you're 100 hours into it (has never happened yet, but there's always a first time). Then there's the chance the customer will have gone off the idea of repairing it/the bill - that happens but I am usually insulated from that as I repair a lot of vehicles for dealers that take on the job but can't do the work, so they send it to me. I do the work, I bill them, they bill the customer - if the end customer doesn't pay, it's luckily not my problem, it;s the dealers problem. Blah blah - the same as for any business. There's always risk - only the quantity varies. :-)
The flipside is the dealers get to charge double what I do for zero effort on their part - so they can suck up the losses when one goes pear-shaped. I make them money so they suck up the few times the customer runs off on them.
If you/I were risk adverse, we'd never chop into an irreplaceable door off a 50k vehicle to maybe earn 1k tops on a daily basis. But we do - because lets face it, its fcuked already - how much worse can we fcuk it? A lot really - but lets ignore that aspect. :-) "Can anyone else do it?" is probably the better question. Usually the hard answer is no - whereby the risk is hugely reduced. If I'm the only option, then my "Best" effort is going to be the best option the customer has - mainly as they have no other options.
If they did, I wouldn't be working on it. Pretty much. Last Chance Saloon. :-) I only ever get the stuff everyone else has passed on. You probably know that vibe too.
Love from Pakistan ❤
Thank you 😊👌
The long bent filler metal that was tacked along the bottom edge of the door, the first to be welded, is that something you bent, or can you buy pre-bent filler strips? I'm looking to preserve an old lorry and there's a few panels / roof drip rail that needs replacing. I don't know if there's generic panels available or I have to buy more tools, eg, english wheel / metal folder etc. Thanks
Hi, yes all parts were made by myself from sheet steel. All straight folded sections are done with my flypress and homemade bending dies. Curved bends are done with shrinker stretchers and bead roller. You can certainly buy folded sheet in lengths on eBay uk.
Nice work :) What do you treat the inside the door with?
Thanks. For the inside I paint where possible then use cavity wax, the wax I use is S50 from bilt hamber and is sprayed on with a coating gun and lance.
Nice
Hmm..makes it look so easy...😉...How long did this repair take and how much should it cost the vehicle owner roughly? I have just bought an old landcruiser which has similar door issues although not as bad as this. Trying to get an idea of what its going to cost me as i have never had any bodywork done before on my vehicles...thanks.
Hi, just for the welding, I think the repair took about 9hrs/£300. Painting would have to be done then of course which will significantly add to the cost.
Can you describe your welding process? Obviously it was mig, what metal did you add, what type of wire and did you disconnect the battery? I have read welding on a vehicle with a battery connected can ruin the battery.
Sure, the metal is 1mm thick zintec, which is a weldable zinc plated mild steel. I like it because of the rust protection it has. The mig wire I'm using is copper coated mild steel and 0.8mm diameter, I also like 0.6mm wire. You can either disconnect the battery or I prefer to use a welding surge protector. I intend to do a video just on welding soon.
@@bensclassicbodywork you got yourself a new subscriber! I look forward to learning from you. I appreciate all your efforts behind making this kind of information available.
Thank you 😊 👍
Was that impact die grinder? Nice and small
Hi, I've not heard of an impact die grinder. The die grinders I use are air powered and the cutting bit is called a carbide Burr.
Nice job I would zinc primer the inside if possible specialy on edge you folded over and some tiger seal in to double seal from rust
👍👍👍😜🏴🦕🦄😁🤞✌️
Yes additional zinc primer wouldn't hurt, I am using Zintec which is already electroplated with Zinc. Tiger seal is good stuff and I also use it to seal the outside fold and then wax inside.
@@bensclassicbodywork me to I buy zinc primer fae screwfix works as weld thru primer to and alot cheaper than the so called weld thru primer
👍👍👍😜🏴🦕🦄😁🤞✌️
How can something be pretty rotten, when it’s ugly rotten.
😆 good point.
Wonderful job🎉
Thanks 😊