Glazing Windows - 15 Min. to 1 Hour - Use Linseed Oil - Tips, Tricks
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- čas přidán 30. 06. 2024
- Glazing a window with my advice will take 15 minutes to an hour, depending on the size and old putty.
1. Glazing a window with putty in good condition is harder to remove. Wear gloves, use a heat gun and a stiff putty knife to soften the putty and gouge it out. Keep the heat gun moving and be careful of the glass.If you are using oil putty, apply linseed oil to any bare wood.If you have latex putty, BIN shellac-based primer works and dries quickly.
2. Measure new glass and subtract 1/8 inch on the 4 sides before cutting. Bring an old piece for thickness.The glazing latex putty comes in a tube, cures quicker and has a longer life. But oil gives better results because it dries slower, cleaner and smoother.
3. New glass gets laid a light bead of caulk on the frame before setting the glass on it. A latex caulk is best even if you use oil putty. Set the glass on to the caulk, then press and wiggle the glass down to firmly embed it. Let the excess caulk coming out from under the glass harden and cut it off with a sharp knife.
4. Force glazing putty into the perimeter of the glass, filling all gaps leaving no shallow areas.
5. Smooth out the glazing compound. A wet putty knife (linseed oil or water) lubricates to smooth the compound.Repeat until you have the proper depth and appearance.Oil-based putty is easier to work with warm. You can heat it by knead it in your hands, placing the can in warm water. Add linseed oil to make sticky and pliable.Oil-based putty remains soft for days, so be careful, and wait several days before priming.Remember to overlap the glass 1/8 inch with paint to seal the putty.
6. Collect the excess compound and reuse. When the putty has cured, clean the glass with a solvent.
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Best video on this. Short, to the point, AND detailed. Thank you for this.
First-rate demonstration; I especially like the suggestion of sealing the wood with boiled linseed oil, and the tip about what kind of knife to use.
Kneading the putty was an important tip, which explains my lousy results! You have a lovely smile. Thanks for sharing.
Great tips Mr H. Thanks for sharing
Fantastic video. Thank you very much for your help.
Great video... I love Sarco Putty, but my mentor used Wonder Putty.
Thank you, Mr. Hardware! I always learn something whenever you post a video.
Yeah my father kept having to replace broken glass because we were an end house next to an alleyway and got quite a few broken windows by vandals but he didn't prime the wood before applying the putty so it soon dried out with the window soaking the oil out of the putty, it cracked and started letting water in even though we sealed it with paint after a few weeks.
Shellac is recommended when using linseed oil putty, not varnish. It's would be best to treat the wood with linseed oil before the shellac and let dry 24 hours. It's best not to paint carefully onto the glass. When the paint is dry, use a straight edge to scrap off paint and leave about 1/16" paint on the glass with a perfectly straight paint to glass line. 1/16" (min) paint on glass is important.
In the UK we use oil based primer paint
Nice video great job, thank you
I clean and oil or thinner my blade,and use it perpendicular to the joint for my final strike off.Then pet the joints with a dry finger several minutes later for really pretty glazing.
Great job! Thank u!
remove sash,inspect the ropes or chains,balancing the sash point on your knee pry out the end nailed into the side hole where the rope/chain is attached,tie a knot in this end slowly realease it so the whole rope does not fall off the roller at the top use the other knee same action in reverse, use a belt sander w medium grit to sand all sash surfaces exc the glass,,,cleaning the glass later.,place the sash where your hands can work close over the peeling or old putty,,,use a semi dull chisel to pry out the old stuff,avoid dings to the wooden edges,,,,,related item, the old guy who I worked with,actually worked for,, used a bernzomatic torch to clean out the rabbet of a busted glass pane or sash,usually it was already painted many times,if the customer wanted new glass he was told there may be burn marks during cleaning out the old putty,Otherwise using the torch on a sash where the glass is intact,the glass would break,,scraping was done in this case, when the old paint and putty is cleaned out,clean the glass with cerium oxide pumice,,one rag w hot water,a sprinkle of the powder,,scrape till the glass squeaks,another sprinkle of pumice to polish the glass,, a blower is great to get all grit and dirt off after the pumice is used, set the sash flat on the floor look down to see if it is square,rock it a bit to see if one end seems loose,,a 2D nail might be necessary to drive into the corner joint,,toe hole this with a drill so the wood does not split,,a joint loose because of dry rot can be mended solid with water based wood putty,tru valu is what I use,looks like pancake mix when you add a bit of water,,clamp it tight and let it set for a day.
Sand paper each rabbet making the outside edge a bit rounded,sand the surface where the glass is too,dust off the residue,then daub with linseed oil or some oil primer,careful not to get oil or paint on the glass itself,,putty seals nice clean glass to the bead,the sash lock onto the putty bead,seals it to the glass nicely apply putty enough to fill the rabbet to a bit of overflow press in the putty with a 3/4 in curved embee knife,( cannot find this particular knife anywhere,so I use a 1 In. bent knife ..it works almost as well) a 45 degree nice flat bead should be your result,,trim off excess with the knife edges scraping down catching excess with your opposite hand,, if you have the window in the shop let it sit leaning back a bit for 2 weeks,while it sets,and forms a bit of skin on the putty surface,,,use blue glass cleaner to wipe off any putty oil,get as close to the putty as you can without hitting the putty lines,tho if you do,coat the knife with lemon oil furniture polish and flatten the ding,,this stuff is also good for re oiling a dried out batch of old putty you were prepared to toss. A long plastering trowel using the edge as a guide, ,ought to have a flat but dull edge, ,, paint the putty and sash after a couple weeks,,
Very good!
Great info.
Thanks, keep 'em coming!
Thank you!
Thank so much
Do I use linseed oil for the window luster what glazing do I use that goes together first time window fixer help
Old wooden casement window sash failed, bottom rail came off. So I’m building new sash, then need to glaze it.
Very informative, thanks à lot.
Great demo. What's the shelf life on putty? I have some windows I need to do and have some old putty that's been in garage about 2 years leftover from last time. It's still soft & malleable.
Sounds like it is ok. I used to put paint thinner and a few drops of raw linseed oil into stiff putty and put it in a paint shaker to kneed it back into life. I can't say that works with current wood puttys on the market.
My father put old putty in a plastic bag and put it in a hot pan of water on the stove to soften it up.
hi Mr. Hardware, have you ever tried organic linseed products? They work fantastic and last much much longer than solvent based "linseed"
I imagine the difference isn't so much whether your linseed oil is organic (unless it's to be eaten) but whether it is boiled or not. Isn't the whole point of boiling or adding a solvent to speed up the cure time?
What about painting the sash of pane?
The window is 120 years old and I had to take out the pane in order to remove old caulk, which prevented it from sitting properly in its frame. But now it's back in, with new caulk and putty, waiting to cure for painting.
nice job, Blair
Isn’t there glazing points to install prior to glazing?
Hey, thanks for this video! I remembered that I need linseed oil, but I wasn't prepared for the choice between BOILED, and RAW linseed. I see you're using boiled - would raw work as well? Would priming the frame work as well? Thanks!!
Raw does not have the 'dryers' in it so it can stay tacky a long time. Under glazing raw might be fine but get boiled to be safe.
This may sound silly, but do you think other oils will work, eg. WD 40?
No those are lubricating oil’s. We’re looking for some thing with the resin that will dry do a semi hard finish.
My windows are painted. Can I apply the glazing compound atop the paint as long as the surface is clean and dry?
And not too shiny. You may prime or lightly sand down a gloss surface.
Where do you get linseed oil putty in the US?
We sell wonder putty, could be a local manufacturer. Call the store 586-776-9532 and hopefully we can sell and ship it to you.
I just bought a 1960s ranch with original wood windows. I am disabled and cannot afford to replace all the windows, so I've decided to re-glaze them... problem is I cannot figure out how to get the windows out (necessary due to window location). The windows are wood, the slide on an aluminum track. When I removed the window trim the aluminum liner prevents me from removing the window. 😮 please help (lol) 😊
I’m not positive because I’ve never done one myself, but I believe if you take the trim and the stop out, the metal slides are held in with only a couple of small nails at the top in the bottom and after you pull out those nails and the trim you can slide one side of the window out. This is just a wild guess a picture would help.
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I hate using putty. Always looks messy. Can I use caulk instead?
Caulk is quicker, easier, but will never look as nice as w putty. Kneed it longer, it gets real nice after a minute, or longer w older putty.
I’ve tried so many different things but no matter what I do, the putty sticks to my putty knife, my hands, my gloves. It’s an unholy mess.
My husband has the same issue. The putty is STICKY.
I’ve tried kneading it, but that just makes it worse. A golf ball size piece or smaller just sticks to my gloves. I cannot rub my hands together to get it off of my gloves either.
The warmer it becomes, the worse it gets.
I’ve even tried to dry it off a bit…no luck.
I’m giving up on this tub of putty.
It took me 2 hours to do about 5 feet of window and it looks terrible.
A few brands are a sticky mess, try a family hardware. We get ours (WONDER putty) from a glazing speciality company. Call 586-776-9532 and Daniel will sell and ship to you.
I just use the DAP in the red plastic bucket. You need to knead it, and you need to clean your knife well and sand it with very fine sandpaper.
Maybe let it dry out a bit first probably bought some really fresh stuff
When sitting the oils in the putty seperate and become unevenly distributed. You need to knead the contents of the whole bucket at the same time to redistribute the oils. There definitely are some putty's that just suck. I don't like DAP.
What type of putty do I purchase?
Window glazing
I use Dap 33 glazing compound for my window let it said going on 3 weeks still soft why is it not getting hard so I can pain it
Yes, that can happen sometimes with some putties.
It usually takes about a month to harden, even though it should be a few weeks.
Return it to the store if it doesn't harden after a one month.
Don't paint it if it's soft even a bit, it must be hard as a wood.
Otherwise it will crack in a few days and you will have to remove everything and clean all well before starting again.
You can paint it once it skins over in about a day or two. It does not need to be completely dry and hard.
I noticed similar criticism of Dap 33 in thecraftsmanblog (Which Glazing Putty is Right for You?)
He writes pros and cons of various glazing putty
Is the glass in a setting bed of glazing?
I have bedded glass, however it takes very soft putty and a more experienced glazer.
I've been harvesting old windows to replace my existing ones and having removed a lot of panes now, I can say, back bedding does not do anything for the glaze seal AND makes it much harder to get the old window out.
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still prefer making my own linseed putty never liked the ready mixed gear always full of crust and sets in the tub
Old school kind of guy, my kind of people.
you should set the glass in a bed of putty first
I agree, but it’s some thing I do it yourself or won’t be able to pull off very easily unless they’re trained and until the third or fourth sash.
No please don't back bed, see my other comment
@@rivernet62What is the problem with back bedding?
@@azul8811 it makes removing the old pane difficult plus it's unnecessary think about the seal you get without back bed its as good
The blind leading the blind
You have many followers?
Your meant to read the comments too with these sort of video's nobody knows it all.
I’m thinking the same thing.
Linseed takes 3 days to dry without covering it with putty. The only thing holding the glaze to the wood is the paint ??