Blackstar 8a+ in Siurana (Full Ascent)
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- Ascent of "Blackstar" 8a+ in November 2023 at Siuranella Centre, Siurana.
Climber:
Johannes P.
Description:
The route is 25 meters long and is about 15 degrees overhanging. It starts out with some powerful moves on good holds, but hard for the shoulders. You reach a big ledge, where you can rest. I rested for 1.5 minutes using a heel hook on the ledge, since the footholds are poor. After the rest, the first and hardest crux awaits. There are some gaston moves to an ok hold, from where you can clip. Then you go far to the right to a bad crimp (there are two good side-pulls, which I don't use, as there are no feet that work for side-pulling). Continue to the right on crimps and deadpoint to a good pinch, where you have to be very precise. There is a deep mono next to the pinch that you can rest in before the second (easier crux). After the second crux, there is a 6b top to the chains.
I rate this route 5/5 stars, because it is not polished and fits my style of climbing.
As a 7a+ climber it's great to watch this for some inspiration for potential future. Great job sending, commenting and editing!
Thanks for sharing that. Good commentary. It looks like a great line
Great stuff - congrats and thank you for sharing 🫶
Great send! Love the comments!
So sick, love the commentary. Easy subscribe.
Good job!! And good job on the belaying while flying the drone 😂
We do the same! It's very hard when your crew is only 2 😅
Awesome! Congratulation
Awesome video as always! The commentary is a cool addition as well. Congratulations on the strong send
awesome send! you looked super strong
Nice job !
Finally, somebody filming from the correct angle, thanks.
Thats exactly the point of my videoes. Thank you for pointing it out ❤️
@@Joha_P. looking forward to new videos from you. Would be nice to see the big Siurana classics, Zona 0 etc
Thanks, I'll put Zona 0 on my bucket list for my next visit. It looks really cool!
One more thing, I just watched it again with the sound on, your commentary is also brilliant! How would you grade the cruxes if they were boulders at an indoor gym?
Hmm, I think the first crux on its own (from the big ledge to the pinch) is probably 7a+ outdoor boulder. The second crux is maybe 6b. So, not that hard by them selves 😄
The difficulty lies in combining it all, which requires good flow, power endurance, and correctly timed rests.
NAH MAN, WHY DONT U HIT SOME COMPS, OG VID FR
I compete nationally, but outdoor climbing is the best!
nice
@@Joha_P.