Push fit works better than compression all the time. Also Shark Bite make a 10$ tool that doesn't require any finger space and is a super thin tool. Love these videos. I've learned a ton from this woman!
It wasn't mentioned in the video but if you use a push-fit, you need to make sure you push it in the correct depth or you will have a leak. The packaging should tell you how much it pushes in...typically 1"-1.15". Mark that on the copper pipe so that you know you have it seated at the correct depth.
Tips for replacing a compression valve to push fit: When removing the ferrule with the tool, it helps to grease the end of the pipe to help the ferrule side off. After, you can use alcohol to clean off the remaining grease. Also important; if the compression valve was on too tight, the pipe could have been compressed to a smaller diameter. If that is the case, you will not get a good seal with the push fit. Be prepared to have to cut the end of the pipe to get a new fresh section of the pipe - this is not hard to do. Before you pull the ferrule, be sure you have a long enough section of pipe in case you will need to cut the pipe. If your starting with a short pipe; best to leave the ferrule, and just replace with another compression valve.
Does re-use of the old ring lead to leak? Should you put a dab of grease on the ring to seal it? if you put in new ring, is it recommended to grease the pipe section where the ring sit to prevent corrosion?
@@alfaromeo6985if you reuse the “old ring” which I’m guessing you mean the old ferule it can leak. So here is what you would need to do.. Use pipe thread sealant that comes in a little tube, I like the shit that comes in a yellow tube, from Home Depot. Apply a good amount of that onto the outside of the ferule and you can even apply some into the inside of the new shut off valve. Then tighten it up. If it still leaks a little you can try tightening a tiny bit more. If it still leaks take it apart and wrap the ferule 5 times with thread tape, then reapply the pipe thread sealant. Retighten and you should be good. I’ve never had one leak after doing this. But it’s better to do the job right and just buy that tool Leah showed and remove the old ferule. You will find with plumbing it’s typically better to replace with new parts.
One other big thing about the push fittings (SharkBite is a popular brand name). These fitting have to be installed properly or they will fail. This means you need to push the fittings on straight and you have to push them fulling onto the pipe. The first thing you need to do is use your hand and push on the pipe. If the pipe moves, then you might have a problem getting a push fitting on correctly. You need to make sure you can push against the pipe and it will stop moving with enough pipe out of the wall, so that you can then push the fitting on smoothly and completely. If you do not push the fitting on completely, there is a good chance it will fail. Once you've install a few of these push fittings you get the feel of whether it's slide on straight and complete, but if this your first time with this type of fitting you need to make sure it's on straight and on completely. If you don't have much pipe coming out of the wall and/or if your pipe moves in and out of the wall a lot, you might not want to use a push fitting. Also, don't be clamping down on copper pipe trying to hold it in place. Copper is a soft metal and you could either poke a hole in it or collapse it completely, then you'll have a much bigger plumbing issue. Push fittings are much better for cases where you can completely grab the pipe with one hand while pushing the fitting on with your other hand or places where you know the pipe is not going to move when you push against it. One last thing, if you get the removal tool make sure you get the correct one for the size pipe you are using, the tool has to match the pipe size so 1/2 inch, 3/4 inch, etc. It's OK if you have to remove the fitting and reset it but much like the compression fitting the woman showed in this video, there is a plastic piece inside the push fitting that acts just like the ferrule that she shows. If you mess up that plastic piece in the push fitting, they will no longer work correctly and you'll end up getting leaks. So be firm but gentle when pushing them on or pulling them off. Don't be pushing on and pulling off these types of fitting too many times, again you'll wear down the plastic inside and open then up to more risk of failure.
One note about the push fit is that, if you don't push exactly straight into the pipe, it can go half way and then stop, leading you to believe it's fully seated. The cure is to make a mark on the pipe 1" from the end, then be sure the push fit goes all the way to that mark. If it doesn't, pull it off and try again.
Hi. Journeyman plumber here. A good thing to do with the push fit is to establish the depth of the push fit fitting and then mark the pipe accordingly. Then you will know that it's all the way in. I prefer the 1/4 turn fitting, which is a ball valve. The other valve has rubber washer to close the valve. In time , especially on a hot supply to sink etc that washer wears out and will not shut off.
I agree, a Ball Value is the way to go with all water valves, water heats, hose bibbs, water conditioners etc. If you have a leak it only takes one quick turn to shut the water off. BTW I'm not a plumber, I just pretend to be one on Facebook lol
Another difference between the compression fitting and the push fit is that the push fit can rotate freeway after installation, which is sometimes very helpful.
I used the compression valve and it was leaking a little despite it being really tight. The push fit worked like a charm. No leaks . Thanks for the tutorial:)
compression fittings, just like others require a clean-square-cut thats been sanded and demurred push fits also require this but they are also twice the price.....but....really speed up install time is money i swap out angle-stops probably in the numbers of about 20 a week, which saves me a solid $350 a month but if you're a homeowner and a plumber is trying to charge you a zillion$ the push fit is the way to go the one caveat on copper pipe is it's absolutely imperative to cut the bur on the OUTSIDE of the pipe as it can damage the internal O rings leading to premature faliure pick up an "inside/outside" pipe reamer at your big box store for $12 and you're a better installer than 90% of licenced apprentice installers
I love this woman! You have helped me so much! My family think I'm so cool now. A plumber would have charged me lots of money to fix this problem. (I realize they would have done more work than just turning the packing nut) however, it's fixed. It took more time to find the wrench than to fix the leak! Thank you so much.
Good video, very well organized for beginners. I feel it is important to mention that compression valves are also available in quarter turn styles. When you go to turn off a push fitting valve you also have to hold the valve body while closing the valve or the whole fitting will rotate and possibly kink the supply line.
I've used both compression and push-on (sharkbite) shut off valves many times with great success. Some question whether the push-on connection valves will last the "test of time" beyond 10 or 20 years but that is yet to be determined. The compression valve you've shown has a gate or washer and seat configuration, so the washer is replaceable and the stem packing seal is also replaceable down the road. This valve also requires several turns of the handle to turn it all the way on or all the way off. Unfortunately, they sometimes get stuck because they are rarely activated. The push-on valve shown is a 1/4 turn ball valve so it requires just a 1/4 turn to activate on or off. The ball valve seat and stem packing are not replaceable so failure does mean valve replacement. The orange "C" shaped removal tool for the push-on is usually supplied with the new valve. Duct tape it to the back of the toilet or inside a vanity close by so you know where it is 10 years from now when you need it.
Leah, your work never goes out of style, it's timeless. Here I am five years later and it's making my whole life better. Yesterday I installed a toilet for the first time in my life...using your video from 7 years ago...and that went perfectly (though I did add a trick from thrift who suggests making a frogtape outline of the toilet placement to keep the silicone from making a mess) But when I got done, the supply valve was leaking. Waa. But tonight I acquired the pieces and tools and will tackle this part tomorrow morning. Crazy, I wonder why I didn't think "shop" classes were for me. I love this jazz
I LOVE THIS WOMAN! My family thinks I'm super cool now. This isn't the first time you've saved me time and money! It took me longer to find the wrench and flash light than it did to turn that packing nut and stop the leak! Thank you thank you thank you! You are great at this. So much knowledge and also great at making these fixes easy to understand and to complete.
i train alot of young employees at my job of 33 years aerospace ; i am impressed with your teaching style ; you remind the student ; not to be over whelmed and reinforce the you can do it ;while pointing out the possible difficulties ; and your a woman ;me being somewhat a chauvinist ;i am impressed ;good job to your teaching and though i do not wear hats i tip my hat to you style and ability
Great video Leah! For my experience: I have had "push fit" valves leak on me. But then, I've had compression valves leak as well. Normally I can tighten the compression fitting enough to stop the leak. The only thing I can do with the "push fit" is ... replace the valve. My personal preference: 1. remove the stem from the sweat type valve. 2. Solder the valve on the copper stub. Your instruction on soldering is an excellent tutorial. 3. Apply 'pipe dope" to packing nut threads and put stem back in the valve. 4. Turn water on, check for leaks, tighten packing nut if needed. 5. Enjoy a piece of apple pie and a cup of coffee in celebration of another job well done! Thank you Leah!
Leah, all of your videos are amazing! I never thought in a million years I could re-pipe-re-plumb my entire 2 bath, 2 bedroom 1000 sf home by myself. After battling cancer for over 16 years, at only 43 years old. (next week) My bones are brittle, I am in pain a lot, but I am a doer! Disability doesn't pay for trial and error, and it sure doesn't pay to re-plump a home that's older than I am. My home was built in 1965. I was born 08/27/1972. Although it takes me longer as my body doesn't always cooperate, I am so thankful for YOU! I have thought of starting my own Channel. One thing at a time, right? =D At this very moment I sat down to take a break and to say thank you!!!
Ireland Reece Hi Ireland, Wow! I'm very impressed...you CAN do it, cancer and all! I'm very glad to be of help, and I wish you the best going forward. Regards, Leah
+seejanedrill I have a similar situation-only my house if a bit larger than a Phone Booth. I am wanting to run Pex lines from a new Tankless H2O, (Electric) for both Kitchen and Bath, (H & C). Do I have to use Shark Bites to plum with Pex. Pex would be best due to hard well water. The Current Galvanized, are all rusted at the threaded ends-and build up too much Calcium.
So helpful!!!! I have (turned off) short water pipes sticking out of a wall in a room being remodeled and this video totally enlightened me and gave me more option ideas for functionality!!! Awesome!!
Another thing I would note about the push fit fittings is that they can completely rotate when they are installed. Compression cannot. That does make a big difference when you have excess supply hose or slack. And I have never had a push fitting leak when installed properly. Compression can right away if not tightened up correctly. Great video. I also have in a pinch used adjustable pliers to pull off a push fitting instead of the push fitting removal tool. Plumbers I have spoken to say they use the same technique.
I use the push connect valve brass craft and thank god for your video. I have a leaking toilet water supply line and try to replace my old push connect brass craft. I thought I can easily just pull it out but can't believe how hard and difficult it's. I turn to youtube and found your video was very helpful. Thanks again for taking the time to post this video, your video has solved many people's toilet problems who want to learn how to repair their own toilet problems because it's expensive to have a plumber doing for you, thanks for a million.
I always look to see if you have a video on a home repair before doing any repair project. They are informative, complete, and help me make a list of steps to follow, parts and needed, and tools to have handy. Thank you!
one other point- a quarter turn valve is better in that it will shut off better in time where a twist valve will be difficult to shut due to mineral buildup.
Especially when the turn valve is plastic, old and corroded. They snap easily. I think it's worth the extra money to get a quarter-turn push valve. But will I need that feral tool to remove the ferrule on a 25yo original compression valve?
@@Beachnative42 I ended up removing my supply valve, putting in a quarter-turn (not push-on) and hooking up a hose to my toilet all by myself (kept old ferrule on there). Hardest part was getting my multi-turn main water supply in the house all the way off. Tightened with all my might but still a tiny trickle of water coming out of all the faucets. Finally I had to use a tool to turn the valve so so tight (didn't want to break it and then have to change THAT too)!
I don’t like using push fit for anything that isn’t temporary. I’d also add that make sure you get a quarter turn ball valve angle stop. In the video the push for is a ball valve and the compression isn’t. If you have to turn the water off years later, you’ll hope there’s a ball valve there.
You are the best...this is the second time you've saved me....had no idea to turn the nut 'righty loosey' to take off the compression shut off valve. I was trying to loosen it by turning it 'righty tighty'...and turning to infinity before watching you.....thanks again.
I just bought 5 push on valves to replace the dead valves for out sinks and I didn't know how to use the new valves until I came across your video. thank you very much for showing how easy it is
I used another brand other than SharkBite for an under-the-sink supply lline valve. I don't remember the brand name but it involved a snapdown lock-clip on top of the valve. It failed. I went back to the store and returned it and against my better judgement, went with Sharkbite rather than something more conventional. It worked great. As a rank amateur plumber, I can say that the hardest part about any plumbing work is taking off the old, corroded stuff.
You probably don't get a chance to read all the comments...but I gotta tell ya...Once I watch your video, I always feel empowered. No job is too daunting, after hearing you say : YOU CAN DO IT....thanks Leah..
This is the best instructional video that I found on youtube thank you for taking the time to explain in simple way how to install and remove the shutoff valve.
Hi Leah, I hope this message finds you doing well. I watched your video on the feral removal tool. I purchased one and I’ve used it about 10 times I wish I would’ve known about this years ago. The best tool I ever owned thank you so much for your videos you’re truly one of the CZcams channels I love to watch. God bless you! 🙏
The shut off valve under my toilet needed to be replaced years ago. I don't shut it off, not even to change the flapper in the toilet. The last few times I did it leaked and I adjusted until it stopped. I'm not going to be so lucky one time too many. I tried to shut the water off and the whole valve tuned in and the water did not shut off. I purchased a brand called BrassCraft at Home Depot. I was tired after work and didn't realize it was not the brand I asked for but live too far to return it just to exchange it, probably was cheaper anyway. You gave me the confidence to finally tackle this job. I was always afraid because I don't have any shut off valves for the hot/cold water pipes coming into the bathroom. I'm going to see if you have a video of installing a shut off valve in a water pipe. We have a new home with all plastic type pipes. The plumber did use copper here and there. Must be for a good reason where needed. Well, thank you very much. I learned so many small points no one ever mentions.
I have more experience with the compression fit valves so those are the ones I use. But regardless of the attachment device, I like the 1/4 turn valves (the push fit was a 1/4 turn valve, the compression fit was a multi turn valve). They are superior to the multi turn valves. I've seen the multi turn valves fail (not turn the water all the way off) within just a few years. The 1/4 turn valves don't wear out as quickly. The difference is the multi turn depends on a washer that wears out, not to mention gaskets or o rings in the stem. The multi turn is a brass ball valve. Not prone to the wear because it doesn't compress over and over again, or corrode as a multi turn will with different water types and the 1/4 are not as vulnerable to over tightening as the multi turn are.
Maxid1 Hi Max, nice to hear from you! I agree that the 1/4 turn valves are superior...it just so happened that the multi-turn was what I had on hand to use for demonstration purposes in the video.
seejanedrill It's good that you showed both and 1/4 or multi turn wasn't the point of the video, that's just the tangent I went on. I think most people that are doing this for the first time in older homes will more than likely find the multi turn. My house is old enough that the main bathroom toilet fill pipe is threaded so it's neither compression or push fit. Great video!
+Maxid1 When no clip is handy for removing a push-fit, an open end wrench will do the job and it's thinner than the clip and the long handle gives you some relief from the valve to do the job.
thanks, Great video! My husband and I think that your videos are clear, concise and thorough. Do a lot more of them. Here's to all the women with tools!
The SharkBite fittings that I had, the Chrome cap that goes over the line also serves as a removal tool. You just pop it off spin it around and remove it like you showed in the video.
They now make quick connect valves with the removal tool effectively built in. Basically there's a little plastic clip near the back (imagine the shark bite tool you have permanently attached, and the clip prevents it from pulling against the valve. You pop out the clip and then the back pulls forward and releases the valve. Pretty nifty! The brass craft ones at the big orange store have that feature.
I have seen many of the first type you showed, but have not seen any of the newer push pull type. Thanks for showing us how to install and remove them.
I like the folks who share knowledge with others to make this world better THANK YOU .BY THE WAY THESE 1/2 ball valves inside moving part is plastic and did fail after 1 year so keep an eye on this, it was a small leak but it was there .
Didn't know about pushfit valves needing more room in the back for the removal tool... glad I saw this before I bought a Sharkbite, because I *DON'T* have enough room on my pipe for the removal tool plus my finger! Thanks
As a plumber for 30 yrs I prefer valves with packing nuts around stem behind handle. Years later when they are operated they can drip and a little turn of that nut will stop that. Also could be rebuilt in a pinch.
When you don’t have enough room to fit your fingers behind the removal tool for a shark bite valve you can place an adjustable wrench behind the removal tool to give yourself leverage and distribute even pressure. Much easier then trying to use your fingers.
Leah, you're the best. You've really helped me with your videos. You make things simple to understand and you show us the tools and special tools we need and how to use them. Bravo! Thank you!
I have pex pipe in my house. I needed to make a few connections but didn't want to rent the Pex tools I bought a couple of shark bite connectors and have never been happier. They are fantastic. A little more expensive but so much easier and way faster.
Excellent command of the language and subject matter. It was a pleasure watching this video and no, I do not want those minutes of my life back. Thank you.
Excellent vid. My valve body is right up against the wall and I can see what appears to be a threaded pipe it’s attached to. No room to even put channnel locks or vice grips on it to keep it from spinning while attempting to loosen valve body. This operation will definitely involve opening up the wall to expose the pipe T it’s screwed into. I managed to stop the leaking valve with the rope material.
You're the greatest! I'll be tackling a replacement of a toilet shut-off valve tomorrow. Thank you for the great video. You should be on one of the cable channels with your own series. :)
Nice Video. Shark Bites are a much higher quality valve. The plastic stem valves are weak and have a limited life and are subject to leaking and breaking. Love you pointing out that the space is needed to remove the Shark Bites. You are really good at showing how work is done and what is really important to know. Shark Bites are also damaged by rough edges and dirty pipe ends.
Don't overtighten compression fitting. Snug it up and then check for leaks. You can always tighten it a little bit more. If you overtighten you can damage the fitting or pipe and have a leak. Tighter it not always better. With slide on fittings, mark pipe so you know it has been properly installed. Problems often occur because the fitting has not been pushed far enough into pipe. The package should indicate how far onto pipe it should go for a given pipe diameter.
MarzNet256 : I had that problem with a Sharkbite leaking because it hadn't been pushed in as far as it should. I normally solder pipes, but I used a Sharkbite for the first time in a place where it would be dangerous to have an open flame. It was very hard to reach; I could only get one arm back there, and because I couldn't hold the pipe with the other hand, I wasn't able to push the Sharkbite hard enough to fully seat. It took some real gymnastics and some imaginative use of tools to get in there and apply enough pressure to stop the leak.
Side note: at the suggestion in a home improvement store comment section, the store recommended using a 5/8 wrench if the push valve removal tool isnt available in stores. It wasn't available in our big box home improvement stores so that's what we used. (disclaimer: try at your own risk)
If you don’t have the special U tool to remove the push on, you can actually use a crescent wrench. Adjust it to fit the pipe and use it the same as the U tool.
There is another tool that works like a pair of tongs. One end slides on to the pipe and the other end onto the valve. Squeeze the arms together and pull. Costs about $8 but is well worth the cost even when you have room, because of the leverage it provides.
Compression fit is just a more reliable fitting. IF you control the variables you can be more confident you are going to have a long term reliable connection. Push-fits work, and I'll use them on occasion, but they are riskier.
Thank you seejanedrill your videos are diy dream . You explain in a way that everyone can succeed. I thought I was in over my head, but you built my confidence that I ca n do this. Thank You seejanedrill.
They make a rigid stop wrench, which is designed to put on compression stops, the 5/8 part pulls apart and above that sticks into the 3/8 nut to hold the stop and the other part tightens up the compression nut, so it's basically a two and run wrench design to put on angle compression stops.
thank you for this video, I'm in process of installing a circulation pump for my hot water heater and needed to install a part at the furthest faucet and didn't know how to install the new shut off valve but thanks to you now I do!
This was very helpful, thanks. I am curious about the longevity of the pushfits, as well. My compression fitting ones lasted for about 30 years. And they are not even quarter turn, which are better.
The key to push fittings is the pipe needs to be de-burred. On the outside and in side of the pipe, clean the outside of the pipe with steel wool, double check for burrs and debris and check the shark bite to make sure that there is not any debris inside the fitting and it will work for many years.
Thanks so much! I've done a fair bit of home & car repair but never had to install a shut off from scratch. (Turns out my Gma wants a bidet and her 40+ year old home has copper straight into the toilet!) I thought it would be a world more difficult than this.
If you don't have room to fit the push fit tool or you can't find one an adjustable wrench or the right size box wrench can also be used. I've also used my Leatherman pliers to remove them
The most popular brand of push-fit is Sharkbite. They really grip. A video testing them showed the water pressure had to be around 750 PSI to blow one off the pipe. Average water pressure is 1/12 to 1/10 that level of pressure.
The push fit (shark bites ect) also have an advantage they can spin / rotate on the pipe without leaking. They have come down in price. The tool comes with most fittings and only like a $1 so no real expense. When done I just leave the tool on the pipes. You can also use a wrench the size of od of the pipe too. These push fit are what Pex uses, so good for copper and Pex. Their is a CZcams video of a guy hanging on a push fit connector between two pipes with weight attached too and not coming apart. Taking off push fit is not always as easy as she did it. Be sure to fully slide in and leave room. Be careful if you heat up pipes with these connectors are still on. Compressions don't over tighten try it first before over wrenching.
1/4 turn valves are great if you turn them on and off once a year otherwise especially if you live in Arizona where we have super hard water the valve will freeze up and the stem will break otherwise they're pretty good, shark bites are pretty good if the pipe is not compressed from the feral ring being pulled off, so I usually just replace the angle stop and use a little pipe dope
Great tutorial. And so wonderful to have a woman pro doing something that is traditionally male dominated. Amazing how your explanation style and content does not assume previous knowledge as most of these do.
Thank you for talking the time to post this video... I really appreciate it. Now I just need to figure out how l'm going to get these bear claws in this tight space to remove the valve... :-(
Solder if you want to do it right. But for the purpose of this video, compression. Push fit relies on rubber to seal. Compression relies on brass/brass compression. A no-brainer. The caveat is that the compression fitting cannot be under or over tightened.
The push tool is $1-2 here in Canada depending on seller. Must be a buck or less in USA. So not a big con. The shark bite or push and go style valves are $12 (again less in USA) but the ease of installation and lack of time to do it plus so many people may have a wrench but just don't know how to use them properly make the push on the monkey way to go. Especially now with pex pipes so prevalent. Pex compression tool is $100 here and a big con for a valve or two. PEX compression tools are mostly used by contractors because they do volumes of fittings and those fittings are worth pennies so a plus for them
Strangely, the push-fit stops are now slightly cheaper than the compression fit valves (by about a dollar). At least this was the case at my local Lowe's.
To easily remove shark bite products without their tool..... Put an adjustable spanner wrench on the copper, then close it until it's snug on the copper and use the bigger surface area to remove the fitting in the same way. Nice vid!
@seejanedrill this video helped us install a new vanity, valves, and supply lines. Thanks you so much, Leah!!!! We went with the push valve with quarter turn.
Push fit works better than compression all the time. Also Shark Bite make a 10$ tool that doesn't require any finger space and is a super thin tool. Love these videos. I've learned a ton from this woman!
Thank you for the tip..gonna get one before I start installing
It wasn't mentioned in the video but if you use a push-fit, you need to make sure you push it in the correct depth or you will have a leak. The packaging should tell you how much it pushes in...typically 1"-1.15". Mark that on the copper pipe so that you know you have it seated at the correct depth.
YES...absolutely right! Thanks for the reminder
Tips for replacing a compression valve to push fit: When removing the ferrule with the tool, it helps to grease the end of the pipe to help the ferrule side off. After, you can use alcohol to clean off the remaining grease. Also important; if the compression valve was on too tight, the pipe could have been compressed to a smaller diameter. If that is the case, you will not get a good seal with the push fit. Be prepared to have to cut the end of the pipe to get a new fresh section of the pipe - this is not hard to do. Before you pull the ferrule, be sure you have a long enough section of pipe in case you will need to cut the pipe. If your starting with a short pipe; best to leave the ferrule, and just replace with another compression valve.
Thanks a lot. My case is a compression valve with a short pipe so I going to replace de valve for another compression valve using the old rin.
Does re-use of the old ring lead to leak? Should you put a dab of grease on the ring to seal it?
if you put in new ring, is it recommended to grease the pipe section where the ring sit to prevent corrosion?
@@alfaromeo6985if you reuse the “old ring” which I’m guessing you mean the old ferule it can leak. So here is what you would need to do..
Use pipe thread sealant that comes in a little tube, I like the shit that comes in a yellow tube, from Home Depot. Apply a good amount of that onto the outside of the ferule and you can even apply some into the inside of the new shut off valve. Then tighten it up. If it still leaks a little you can try tightening a tiny bit more. If it still leaks take it apart and wrap the ferule 5 times with thread tape, then reapply the pipe thread sealant. Retighten and you should be good. I’ve never had one leak after doing this. But it’s better to do the job right and just buy that tool Leah showed and remove the old ferule.
You will find with plumbing it’s typically better to replace with new parts.
One other big thing about the push fittings (SharkBite is a popular brand name). These fitting have to be installed properly or they will fail. This means you need to push the fittings on straight and you have to push them fulling onto the pipe. The first thing you need to do is use your hand and push on the pipe. If the pipe moves, then you might have a problem getting a push fitting on correctly. You need to make sure you can push against the pipe and it will stop moving with enough pipe out of the wall, so that you can then push the fitting on smoothly and completely. If you do not push the fitting on completely, there is a good chance it will fail.
Once you've install a few of these push fittings you get the feel of whether it's slide on straight and complete, but if this your first time with this type of fitting you need to make sure it's on straight and on completely.
If you don't have much pipe coming out of the wall and/or if your pipe moves in and out of the wall a lot, you might not want to use a push fitting. Also, don't be clamping down on copper pipe trying to hold it in place. Copper is a soft metal and you could either poke a hole in it or collapse it completely, then you'll have a much bigger plumbing issue. Push fittings are much better for cases where you can completely grab the pipe with one hand while pushing the fitting on with your other hand or places where you know the pipe is not going to move when you push against it.
One last thing, if you get the removal tool make sure you get the correct one for the size pipe you are using, the tool has to match the pipe size so 1/2 inch, 3/4 inch, etc. It's OK if you have to remove the fitting and reset it but much like the compression fitting the woman showed in this video, there is a plastic piece inside the push fitting that acts just like the ferrule that she shows. If you mess up that plastic piece in the push fitting, they will no longer work correctly and you'll end up getting leaks. So be firm but gentle when pushing them on or pulling them off. Don't be pushing on and pulling off these types of fitting too many times, again you'll wear down the plastic inside and open then up to more risk of failure.
One note about the push fit is that, if you don't push exactly straight into the pipe, it can go half way and then stop, leading you to believe it's fully seated. The cure is to make a mark on the pipe 1" from the end, then be sure the push fit goes all the way to that mark. If it doesn't, pull it off and try again.
Hi. Journeyman plumber here. A good thing to do with the push fit is to establish the depth of the push fit fitting and then mark the pipe accordingly. Then you will know that it's all the way in. I prefer the 1/4 turn fitting, which is a ball valve. The other valve has rubber washer to close the valve. In time , especially on a hot supply to sink etc that washer wears out and will not shut off.
I agree, a Ball Value is the way to go with all water valves, water heats, hose bibbs, water conditioners etc. If you have a leak it only takes one quick turn to shut the water off. BTW I'm not a plumber, I just pretend to be one on Facebook lol
Another difference between the compression fitting and the push fit is that the push fit can rotate freeway after installation, which is sometimes very helpful.
I used the compression valve and it was leaking a little despite it being really tight. The push fit worked like a charm. No leaks . Thanks for the tutorial:)
compression fittings, just like others require a clean-square-cut thats been sanded and demurred
push fits also require this
but they are also twice the price.....but....really speed up install
time is money
i swap out angle-stops probably in the numbers of about 20 a week, which saves me a solid $350 a month
but if you're a homeowner and a plumber is trying to charge you a zillion$
the push fit is the way to go
the one caveat on copper pipe is it's absolutely imperative to cut the bur on the OUTSIDE of the pipe
as it can damage the internal O rings leading to premature faliure
pick up an "inside/outside" pipe reamer at your big box store for $12 and you're a better installer than 90% of licenced apprentice installers
If you wrap some Teflon tape around the ferrule you can stop the leaks on the compression fitting
I love this woman! You have helped me so much! My family think I'm so cool now. A plumber would have charged me lots of money to fix this problem. (I realize they would have done more work than just turning the packing nut) however, it's fixed. It took more time to find the wrench than to fix the leak! Thank you so much.
Good video, very well organized for beginners. I feel it is important to mention that compression valves are also available in quarter turn styles. When you go to turn off a push fitting valve you also have to hold the valve body while closing the valve or the whole fitting will rotate and possibly kink the supply line.
I've used both compression and push-on (sharkbite) shut off valves many times with great success. Some question whether the push-on connection valves will last the "test of time" beyond 10 or 20 years but that is yet to be determined. The compression valve you've shown has a gate or washer and seat configuration, so the washer is replaceable and the stem packing seal is also replaceable down the road. This valve also requires several turns of the handle to turn it all the way on or all the way off. Unfortunately, they sometimes get stuck because they are rarely activated.
The push-on valve shown is a 1/4 turn ball valve so it requires just a 1/4 turn to activate on or off. The ball valve seat and stem packing are not replaceable so failure does mean valve replacement.
The orange "C" shaped removal tool for the push-on is usually supplied with the new valve. Duct tape it to the back of the toilet or inside a vanity close by so you know where it is 10 years from now when you need it.
Leah, your work never goes out of style, it's timeless. Here I am five years later and it's making my whole life better. Yesterday I installed a toilet for the first time in my life...using your video from 7 years ago...and that went perfectly (though I did add a trick from thrift who suggests making a frogtape outline of the toilet placement to keep the silicone from making a mess)
But when I got done, the supply valve was leaking. Waa. But tonight I acquired the pieces and tools and will tackle this part tomorrow morning. Crazy, I wonder why I didn't think "shop" classes were for me. I love this jazz
I LOVE THIS WOMAN! My family thinks I'm super cool now. This isn't the first time you've saved me time and money! It took me longer to find the wrench and flash light than it did to turn that packing nut and stop the leak! Thank you thank you thank you! You are great at this. So much knowledge and also great at making these fixes easy to understand and to complete.
i train alot of young employees at my job of 33 years aerospace ; i am impressed with your teaching style ; you remind the student ; not to be over whelmed and reinforce the you can do it ;while pointing out the possible difficulties ; and your a woman ;me being somewhat a chauvinist ;i am impressed ;good job to your teaching and though i do not wear hats i tip my hat to you style and ability
Great video Leah! For my experience: I have had "push fit" valves leak on me. But then, I've had compression valves leak as well. Normally I can tighten the compression fitting enough to stop the leak. The only thing I can do with the "push fit" is ... replace the valve. My personal preference: 1. remove the stem from the sweat type valve. 2. Solder the valve on the copper stub. Your instruction on soldering is an excellent tutorial. 3. Apply 'pipe dope" to packing nut threads and put stem back in the valve. 4. Turn water on, check for leaks, tighten packing nut if needed. 5. Enjoy a piece of apple pie and a cup of coffee in celebration of another job well done! Thank you Leah!
Completely brilliant video! It’s a knack to teach and convey the way you do without pandering. Thank you for such a well laid-out video.
Leah, all of your videos are amazing! I never thought in a million years I could re-pipe-re-plumb my entire 2 bath, 2 bedroom 1000 sf home by myself. After battling cancer for over 16 years, at only 43 years old. (next week) My bones are brittle, I am in pain a lot, but I am a doer! Disability doesn't pay for trial and error, and it sure doesn't pay to re-plump a home that's older than I am. My home was built in 1965. I was born 08/27/1972. Although it takes me longer as my body doesn't always cooperate, I am so thankful for YOU! I have thought of starting my own Channel. One thing at a time, right? =D At this very moment I sat down to take a break and to say thank you!!!
Ireland Reece Hi Ireland, Wow! I'm very impressed...you CAN do it, cancer and all! I'm very glad to be of help, and I wish you the best going forward. Regards, Leah
+seejanedrill I have a similar situation-only my house if a bit larger than a Phone Booth. I am wanting to run Pex lines from a new Tankless H2O, (Electric) for both Kitchen and Bath, (H & C). Do I have to use Shark Bites to plum with Pex. Pex would be best due to hard well water. The Current Galvanized, are all rusted at the threaded ends-and build up too much Calcium.
Beautiful comment and best wishes, and for safety do not share your DOB on CZcams. Hope it’s not exactly correct
This is the second one for the basement bat. czcams.com/users/postUgkxOuLt8IL_GxhhaK8DBuKEL-zV0UJVpWZn , works great
Every time you say, "You can do this" at the end of your videos, my heart smiles! My Dad and Uncle used to say the same to me...😊
So helpful!!!! I have (turned off) short water pipes sticking out of a wall in a room being remodeled and this video totally enlightened me and gave me more option ideas for functionality!!! Awesome!!
Came for the knowledge, left very relaxed. I could listen to you spin a yarn all day long haha. Thanks for being you!
No matter how mundane the topic I always learn something from Leah.
Another thing I would note about the push fit fittings is that they can completely rotate when they are installed. Compression cannot. That does make a big difference when you have excess supply hose or slack. And I have never had a push fitting leak when installed properly. Compression can right away if not tightened up correctly. Great video.
I also have in a pinch used adjustable pliers to pull off a push fitting instead of the push fitting removal tool. Plumbers I have spoken to say they use the same technique.
onecrazywheel Thanks for sharing the tip about the pliers...that is a great one, and it may help others out there that don't have the removal tool.
+onecrazywheel You can rotate a compression fitting by using a wrench.
@@Wolf_The_Dentist_Stansson Do not rotate a compression valve without loosening it up first.
@@markuschelios6891 In my 9 years of plumbing I have never had a problem rotating a compression valve without loosening
@@Wolf_The_Dentist_Stansson And Bruce Jenner had a penis for 66 years. Things changed one day. ;)
I use the push connect valve brass craft and thank god for your video. I have a leaking toilet water supply line and try to replace my old push connect brass craft. I thought I can easily just pull it out but can't believe how hard and difficult it's. I turn to youtube and found your video was very helpful. Thanks again for taking the time to post this video, your video has solved many people's toilet problems who want to learn how to repair their own toilet problems because it's expensive to have a plumber doing for you, thanks for a million.
I always look to see if you have a video on a home repair before doing any repair project. They are informative, complete, and help me make a list of steps to follow, parts and needed, and tools to have handy. Thank you!
one other point- a quarter turn valve is better in that it will shut off better in time where a twist valve will be difficult to shut due to mineral buildup.
I ran into that problem. It was so bad that I could not turn several twist valves.
Any plumber that still uses multiturn valves in any application anywhere-in my mind-is committing professional malpractice.
Especially when the turn valve is plastic, old and corroded. They snap easily. I think it's worth the extra money to get a quarter-turn push valve. But will I need that feral tool to remove the ferrule on a 25yo original compression valve?
@@SWLinPHX no since the mineral deposits will be lodged behind it making it useless
@@Beachnative42 I ended up removing my supply valve, putting in a quarter-turn (not push-on) and hooking up a hose to my toilet all by myself (kept old ferrule on there). Hardest part was getting my multi-turn main water supply in the house all the way off. Tightened with all my might but still a tiny trickle of water coming out of all the faucets. Finally I had to use a tool to turn the valve so so tight (didn't want to break it and then have to change THAT too)!
I don’t like using push fit for anything that isn’t temporary. I’d also add that make sure you get a quarter turn ball valve angle stop. In the video the push for is a ball valve and the compression isn’t. If you have to turn the water off years later, you’ll hope there’s a ball valve there.
You are the best...this is the second time you've saved me....had no idea to turn the nut 'righty loosey' to take off the compression shut off valve. I was trying to loosen it by turning it 'righty tighty'...and turning to infinity before watching you.....thanks again.
I just bought 5 push on valves to replace the dead valves for out sinks and I didn't know how to use the new valves until I came across your video. thank you very much for showing how easy it is
Glad to be of service
I absolutely love your videos. You're definitely a teacher, and you explain things so well!!!
I used another brand other than SharkBite for an under-the-sink supply lline valve. I don't remember the brand name but it involved a snapdown lock-clip on top of the valve. It failed. I went back to the store and returned it and against my better judgement, went with Sharkbite rather than something more conventional. It worked great. As a rank amateur plumber, I can say that the hardest part about any plumbing work is taking off the old, corroded stuff.
You probably don't get a chance to read all the comments...but I gotta tell ya...Once I watch your video, I always feel empowered. No job is too daunting, after hearing you say : YOU CAN DO IT....thanks Leah..
You can!
This is the best instructional video that I found on youtube thank you for taking the time to explain in simple way how to install and remove the shutoff valve.
Hi Leah,
I hope this message finds you doing well. I watched your video on the feral removal tool. I purchased one and I’ve used it about 10 times I wish I would’ve known about this years ago. The best tool I ever owned thank you so much for your videos you’re truly one of the CZcams channels I love to watch.
God bless you!
🙏
I watched this video just before fixing my shut off valve on my toilet not ten minutes ago. No leaks, very good video. 10/10.
Nice.....way to go!
The shut off valve under my toilet needed to be replaced years ago. I don't shut it off, not even to change the flapper in the toilet. The last few times I did it leaked and I adjusted until it stopped. I'm not going to be so lucky one time too many. I tried to shut the water off and the whole valve tuned in and the water did not shut off. I purchased a brand called BrassCraft at Home Depot. I was tired after work and didn't realize it was not the brand I asked for but live too far to return it just to exchange it, probably was cheaper anyway.
You gave me the confidence to finally tackle this job. I was always afraid because I don't have any shut off valves for the hot/cold water pipes coming into the bathroom. I'm going to see if you have a video of installing a shut off valve in a water pipe. We have a new home with all plastic type pipes. The plumber did use copper here and there. Must be for a good reason where needed. Well, thank you very much. I learned so many small points no one ever mentions.
Very informative and you give great explanations on how and why each works. Your an asset to the how to teachers out there. Thanks
I have more experience with the compression fit valves so those are the ones I use. But regardless of the attachment device, I like the 1/4 turn valves (the push fit was a 1/4 turn valve, the compression fit was a multi turn valve). They are superior to the multi turn valves. I've seen the multi turn valves fail (not turn the water all the way off) within just a few years. The 1/4 turn valves don't wear out as quickly. The difference is the multi turn depends on a washer that wears out, not to mention gaskets or o rings in the stem. The multi turn is a brass ball valve. Not prone to the wear because it doesn't compress over and over again, or corrode as a multi turn will with different water types and the 1/4 are not as vulnerable to over tightening as the multi turn are.
Maxid1 Hi Max, nice to hear from you! I agree that the 1/4 turn valves are superior...it just so happened that the multi-turn was what I had on hand to use for demonstration purposes in the video.
seejanedrill It's good that you showed both and 1/4 or multi turn wasn't the point of the video, that's just the tangent I went on. I think most people that are doing this for the first time in older homes will more than likely find the multi turn. My house is old enough that the main bathroom toilet fill pipe is threaded so it's neither compression or push fit. Great video!
+Maxid1 When no clip is handy for removing a push-fit, an open end wrench will do the job and it's thinner than the clip and the long handle gives you some relief from the valve to do the job.
Maxid1 fl
This is info I wanted to know! I have been unable to turn some of these handles in the past during a leak and I don’t want to repeat that! Thanks!
1/4 turn is better than multi-turn. You can use an adjustable wrench if you don't have a special tool for the push connect valve.
Just want to thank for saving the day with plumbing problems in Kansas. thank you!!!!
thanks, Great video! My husband and I think that your videos are clear, concise and thorough. Do a lot more of them. Here's to all the women with tools!
+Chris Malis you're welcome, Chris, and thanks!
The SharkBite fittings that I had, the Chrome cap that goes over the line also serves as a removal tool. You just pop it off spin it around and remove it like you showed in the video.
Great tip.
They now make quick connect valves with the removal tool effectively built in. Basically there's a little plastic clip near the back (imagine the shark bite tool you have permanently attached, and the clip prevents it from pulling against the valve. You pop out the clip and then the back pulls forward and releases the valve. Pretty nifty! The brass craft ones at the big orange store have that feature.
Thanks for the info!!! The big blue store near me doesn't have that one.
Robyn Johnson they're brass craft, the ones i used; at the Orange store.
BrassCraft discontinued that model, but Dahl has one: www.dahlvalve.com/products/mini-ball-valves/supply-stops/push-fit/supply-stops-611-QG3-31.php
2021 March 18.. During this Pandemic, your videos are a blessing.. Love your instructions so clear and loud.. Thanks from Miami, Florida..
I have seen many of the first type you showed, but have not seen any of the newer push pull type. Thanks for showing us how to install and remove them.
Sidney Mathious you're very welcome, Sidney!
Brilliant! I had no idea there was a difference. Even at twice the cost the push fit is the way to go. Great video.
I like the folks who share knowledge with others to make this world better THANK YOU .BY THE WAY THESE 1/2 ball valves inside moving part is plastic and did fail after 1 year so keep an eye on this, it was a small leak but it was there .
Didn't know about pushfit valves needing more room in the back for the removal tool... glad I saw this before I bought a Sharkbite, because I *DON'T* have enough room on my pipe for the removal tool plus my finger! Thanks
Perfect explanation. Good tempo. Not boringly slow and not zippity too fast. Thank you!!!!
+cheryl m hall you're welcome, glad you liked it!
Dont forget to shut off your water main when replacing your valves. Great video
Thanks for mentioning
@@seejanedrill your welcome
Thanks for the great video s
I was wondering why the valve shot across the room when I removed it.
Leah has a God given talent for explaining things!
As a plumber for 30 yrs I prefer valves with packing nuts around stem behind handle. Years later when they are operated they can drip and a little turn of that nut will stop that. Also could be rebuilt in a pinch.
And thanks for the video
When you don’t have enough room to fit your fingers behind the removal tool for a shark bite valve you can place an adjustable wrench behind the removal tool to give yourself leverage and distribute even pressure. Much easier then trying to use your fingers.
Leah, you're the best. You've really helped me with your videos. You make things simple to understand and you show us the tools and special tools we need and how to use them. Bravo! Thank you!
It's my pleasure!
You are the best teacher I have seen anywhere on the web. I appreciate you.
I have pex pipe in my house. I needed to make a few connections but didn't want to rent the Pex tools I bought a couple of shark bite connectors and have never been happier. They are fantastic. A little more expensive but so much easier and way faster.
saliston :)
Excellent command of the language and subject matter. It was a pleasure watching this video and no, I do not want those minutes of my life back. Thank you.
Excellent vid. My valve body is right up against the wall and I can see what appears to be a threaded pipe it’s attached to. No room to even put channnel locks or vice grips on it to keep it from spinning while attempting to loosen valve body. This operation will definitely involve opening up the wall to expose the pipe T it’s screwed into. I managed to stop the leaking valve with the rope material.
You're the greatest! I'll be tackling a replacement of a toilet shut-off valve tomorrow. Thank you for the great video. You should be on one of the cable channels with your own series. :)
Nice Video. Shark Bites are a much higher quality valve. The plastic stem valves are weak and have a limited life and are subject to leaking and breaking. Love you pointing out that the space is needed to remove the Shark Bites. You are really good at showing how work is done and what is really important to know. Shark Bites are also damaged by rough edges and dirty pipe ends.
you can get the compression valve in a quarter turn
I love push fits. Bought the tool to remove it and it's seriously upped my plumbing game, lol.
Don't overtighten compression fitting. Snug it up and then check for leaks. You can always tighten it a little bit more. If you overtighten you can damage the fitting or pipe and have a leak. Tighter it not always better. With slide on fittings, mark pipe so you know it has been properly installed. Problems often occur because the fitting has not been pushed far enough into pipe. The package should indicate how far onto pipe it should go for a given pipe diameter.
MarzNet256 : I had that problem with a Sharkbite leaking because it hadn't been pushed in as far as it should. I normally solder pipes, but I used a Sharkbite for the first time in a place where it would be dangerous to have an open flame. It was very hard to reach; I could only get one arm back there, and because I couldn't hold the pipe with the other hand, I wasn't able to push the Sharkbite hard enough to fully seat. It took some real gymnastics and some imaginative use of tools to get in there and apply enough pressure to stop the leak.
Sdbklhchki
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MarzNet - If you messed up your compression fitting ring just wrap some teflon tape around it and tighten the nut. WORKS!
Side note: at the suggestion in a home improvement store comment section, the store recommended using a 5/8 wrench if the push valve removal tool isnt available in stores. It wasn't available in our big box home improvement stores so that's what we used. (disclaimer: try at your own risk)
I'm a plumber and most of us use a wrench or adjustable wrench
Plumbing videos you post have the best content and are the most informative on CZcams. Thanks so much!
you're welcome, Fred, and thanks!
Thanks again, Leah. Second video of yours I've seen. You're a superior teacher with the sights to go with the words. Bravo!!
you're welcome, and thanks!
If you don’t have the special U tool to remove the push on, you can actually use a crescent wrench. Adjust it to fit the pipe and use it the same as the U tool.
There is another tool that works like a pair of tongs. One end slides on to the pipe and the other end onto the valve. Squeeze the arms together and pull. Costs about $8 but is well worth the cost even when you have room, because of the leverage it provides.
Compression fit is just a more reliable fitting. IF you control the variables you can be more confident you are going to have a long term reliable connection. Push-fits work, and I'll use them on occasion, but they are riskier.
I already knew this information. I just really enjoy listening to Jane explain things.
All your videos are self explanatory & i love that about you jane :)
thanks, Gary!
Thank you seejanedrill your videos are diy dream . You explain in a way that everyone can succeed. I thought I was in over
my head, but you built my confidence that I ca
n do this. Thank You seejanedrill.
They make a rigid stop wrench, which is designed to put on compression stops, the 5/8 part pulls apart and above that sticks into the 3/8 nut to hold the stop and the other part tightens up the compression nut, so it's basically a two and run wrench design to put on angle compression stops.
A ferrule puller... cool! I had no idea these were a thing... 👍 gotta get one. Thanks!
Thank you. I definitely will continue watching your channel. Your directions are clear and concise.
thank you for this video, I'm in process of installing a circulation pump for my hot water heater and needed to install a part at the furthest faucet and didn't know how to install the new shut off valve but thanks to you now I do!
This was very helpful, thanks. I am curious about the longevity of the pushfits, as well. My compression fitting ones lasted for about 30 years. And they are not even quarter turn, which are better.
Great video. You covered everything that I was wondering about and you did it in a very clear manner. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
The key to push fittings is the pipe needs to be de-burred. On the outside and in side of the pipe, clean the outside of the pipe with steel wool, double check for burrs and debris and check the shark bite to make sure that there is not any debris inside the fitting and it will work for many years.
I like how you Splaine everything to keep it simple
Thanks Lea, that was very informative. I thought you were just a Carpenter but appears you are a Jane of all trades.
Thanks so much! I've done a fair bit of home & car repair but never had to install a shut off from scratch. (Turns out my Gma wants a bidet and her 40+ year old home has copper straight into the toilet!)
I thought it would be a world more difficult than this.
If you don't have room to fit the push fit tool or you can't find one an adjustable wrench or the right size box wrench can also be used. I've also used my Leatherman pliers to remove them
Great video; thank you for sharing. If all else fails, a good solder valve job will fix the problem.
And the QUARTER TURN valve is better than the faucet twist valve. The quarter turn valve lasts a lot longer.
Clear, simple explanations, and... what a professionally-sounding voice this lady has, like for a TV show for DIYers, as others have said.
This lady plumber is awesome! Thank you for putting this video up.
The most popular brand of push-fit is Sharkbite. They really grip. A video testing them showed the water pressure had to be around 750 PSI to blow one off the pipe. Average water pressure is 1/12 to 1/10 that level of pressure.
The push fit (shark bites ect) also have an advantage they can spin / rotate on the pipe without leaking. They have come down in price. The tool comes with most fittings and only like a $1 so no real expense. When done I just leave the tool on the pipes. You can also use a wrench the size of od of the pipe too. These push fit are what Pex uses, so good for copper and Pex. Their is a CZcams video of a guy hanging on a push fit connector between two pipes with weight attached too and not coming apart. Taking off push fit is not always as easy as she did it. Be sure to fully slide in and leave room. Be careful if you heat up pipes with these connectors are still on. Compressions don't over tighten try it first before over wrenching.
You’re so awesome Lea!! You make plumbing’s work less intimidating..👍👍
Best instruction video on a PUSH VALVE Installation I have found. Thank you , Thank you ! 😊
1/4 turn valves are great if you turn them on and off once a year otherwise especially if you live in Arizona where we have super hard water the valve will freeze up and the stem will break otherwise they're pretty good, shark bites are pretty good if the pipe is not compressed from the feral ring being pulled off, so I usually just replace the angle stop and use a little pipe dope
No shit about Arizona, you basically have to replace your valves every other year
Great video. Clear, concise, and good video quality.
thanks!
Great tutorial. And so wonderful to have a woman pro doing something that is traditionally male dominated. Amazing how your explanation style and content does not assume previous knowledge as most of these do.
thank you very much!
Thanks a whole lot for this video...I installed a push fit and I didn't know how to take it off...thanks again.
+Superfoot you're very welcome!
Thank you for talking the time to post this video... I really appreciate it. Now I just need to figure out how l'm going to get these bear claws in this tight space to remove the valve... :-(
Solder if you want to do it right. But for the purpose of this video, compression. Push fit relies on rubber to seal. Compression relies on brass/brass compression. A no-brainer. The caveat is that the compression fitting cannot be under or over tightened.
The push tool is $1-2 here in Canada depending on seller. Must be a buck or less in USA. So not a big con. The shark bite or push and go style valves are $12 (again less in USA) but the ease of installation and lack of time to do it plus so many people may have a wrench but just don't know how to use them properly make the push on the monkey way to go. Especially now with pex pipes so prevalent. Pex compression tool is $100 here and a big con for a valve or two. PEX compression tools are mostly used by contractors because they do volumes of fittings and those fittings are worth pennies so a plus for them
Wow sister! This is a great video! Very informative and educational! Best 5min spent on CZcams👍
Strangely, the push-fit stops are now slightly cheaper than the compression fit valves (by about a dollar). At least this was the case at my local Lowe's.
Interesting
Great video..got a leaky valve and wanted to see if this was something I could tackle...
To easily remove shark bite products without their tool..... Put an adjustable spanner wrench on the copper, then close it until it's snug on the copper and use the bigger surface area to remove the fitting in the same way. Nice vid!
@seejanedrill this video helped us install a new vanity, valves, and supply lines. Thanks you so much, Leah!!!! We went with the push valve with quarter turn.
nice! way to go!