Fibreglassing onto Plywood - Creating a watertight wheelhouse on a shoe string budget
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- From East Coast Fibreglass, in this video Martin shows how to prepare, seal/prime, reinforce and fibreglass a wheelhouse using polyester resin, gelcoat and flowcoat/topcoat. This is a good process if you haven't got the budget for expensive epoxies and not too fussy about a moulded finish or if you just prefer and have experience with polyester and chopped strand matting. Please note that this was filmed in a well extracted and ventilated workshop where styrene levels are monitored for safety. we would recommend wearing a dust mask when cutting, sanding etc and wear a vapour mask if ventilation is poor.
I've done a bit of fibreglassing as I have a small workshop I do it outside. What doing it outside showed me was how much glass fibres come off the mat and floats in the air shining in the sun. Even just gently getting the mat out of the storage bag resulted in a glass fibre cloud. It really showed me how much you definitely need to wear a mask!!
Same here. I’ve done industrial fiberglass fabrication of piping many years ago.
That was hot (I did it during the summer months). Any work being done, when viewed against sunlight, exposes all the tiny strands floating and flickering in the air. It does get in your lungs if PPE is not worn. It will cause you to cough for hours.
It’s best to wear a painters sock over your head to prevent the floating strands from getting into your hair and onto your skin.
Fiberglass is considered the next asbestos, being worse than it.
Aside from all that, it’s an ok material for the boating industry.
Maybe if working next to nuclear power house it will kill all the free fiberglass shells before entering the skin? The disadvantage to doing so is obeying the building object becaming out disformed maybe?
Working with general purpose laminating resin is a LOT easier using paint rollers, even small ones, instead of brushes. Having resin and hardener in a paint roller pan works better because it "heats" less. Another BIG trick, is working in air conditioning. Not only is the air dryer, you can use small amounts of hardener, which improves the quality of your work and reduced wastage because of the time factor. Do the lay-up, then, turn the A/C off. Using just enough resin to wet out the glass makes the strongest and cheapest job. If you use the right amount of resin, you can actually see the individual fiber bunches in great detail on the surface, although there are no air bubbles. For the best fiberglass construction, alternate layers of mat/roving, with each layup consisting of a mat and roving, with the mat going on first, immediately followed by the roving. Use a paint roller AND a serated edge (air roller) roller to help the wet out process. Laminating resin is air inhibited, and doesn't completely surface cure until it is coated over, or wax is added. Yes, anything applied over the wax doesn't always stick (adhere) well, so the wax is only added to the last layup. With plywood increasing in price (and probably, quality), try making fiberglass sheets on top of plastic sheeting. Hint: polyester resin doesn't stick to milk jugs. I'm well experienced with anything that can cause much grief, and fiberglass is just one of them.
Thank you for adding this comment. excellent advice!
I think it's best to leave your coats of resin and cloth unpigmented. Properly soaked cloth becomes clear but air-pockets remain slightly white. I'm surprised you don't sand each layer so you end up with perfectly flat surfaces. I can see your edge pieces telegraphing through the final layers of cloth.
Absolutely right clear laminates do show up them pesky air pockets a lot easier.
Most informative video I've seen to date. Thank you very much I'm building a truck camper. I'm going to use this technique thanks again
How did it work out for you ? I'm planning on doing the same type of project.
I ended up coating the outside in a product called gaco roof deck you can see some of my camper Builds on my CZcams channel. Sorry I started the CZcams channel after I built the camper
Thanks for teaching. I hope it helps you back!
I wished I had seen this excellent tutorial at the beginning of my project (16"inch interface between Ford E-350 truck cab & cargo box).
I am at the stage now of applying Gelcoat & Flowcoat.
I bought sprayers that I now see were un-needed for the 14sq ft project.
I have purchased Gelcoat with wax and without to be Flowcoat.
I think that I can apply the entire quart of Gelcoat letting that set-up to become tacky (a few hours) then apply the Flowcoat.
My only question is how much Flowcoat?
Yes, I am expecting to sand.
After all this work, time, and expense I want it to look vehicle\boat body shop proud.
Haha when you crease glass you break the glass which is what gives strength, this dude knows what he is doing lol
Yes that is correct and we would never advise creasing glass when moulding or if strength is required. However this demo is for waterproofing not strength. The strength we need is already in the plywood. but thanks for your feedback.
thank you for the video, I really appreciate it. just fyi for others who are also just watching for leisure/curiosity, watching it in 1.5 speed really helped.
R K I the
Thanks for sharing! I really learned a lot - enough, I think, do DIY good application for my first dream boat-build project I’ve been researching for about a year, now. 👍🏻🙏🏻
One needs to wear PPE when doing this type fabrication. That fiberglass gets EVERYWHERE!!
Very true and very itchy business if you don't have overalls on 🙂
@@ecfibreglassuk, if one doesn’t have a painters sock as well as eye protection, the hair and eyes will get the glass fibers in them as well. I’ve done industrial piping flange construction for a few months in the summertime, that’s how I know.
Btw, bondstrand piping is much worse to work with. This was around 1982ish.
So many people are making molds. I don't need one- I'm working on a (very) custom shower base. I have to build it inside the trailer- the door's too small. :>
THANK YOU for an example of exterior- no-mold-needed (whatever THAT's called) production. While I don't expect to make any boat parts, the technique is valuable for making anything else I might do!
Great vid mate, great Info you are a craftsman will take on your advice thanks 🤙🤙
No problem 👍
Mackenzie, thanks, I appreciate it,
Pete
i allways use feather edge on corners first as you cut glass shows through on final product, years spent at ofshore 105,wadebrige cornwall also flowcoat is fine if its rubbed back and cleaned with acetone ,i use a barrel of resin a week 2 rolls of matt and 40 kilos of flowcoat,i also tend to use a low speed cat all year round and boost to judgement of weather ,ie damp cold wet humid etc
jimmey beven A
AWESOME VIDEO, KEEP POSTING.
Great video ! A lot of great information ! I'll be putting it to work tomorrow.
+Shawn McWhorter Let us know how it turns out :)
Awesome video
Well built and sturdy no doubt, but that wheelhouse is homely as a stump fence
yes Many thanks for lesson
Loads of tips on this vid thank u
excellent tutorial.thank you Martin.
Thankyou :-)
Some people think that type of roller puts air into the laminate and prefer the one looking like a series of washers.
What about tearing the edges of the corner strips so you don't see them under further lams?
Great vid and very informative! And from a friendly north easterner! ;) I now realise the challenge I have ahead of me lol
You are instructing the knowledgeable, The rest of us want to know why you do certain things and what happens of you do something different. for example why polyester, what else can you use. Can you use different to the original ? This is the same mistake others make in their videos
Hi Eric, we try to keep our videos to one job at a time, otherwise they'd end up being 4 hours long while we debated the pros and cons of different systems! This one is exclusively GRP layup, but I think we have some epoxy videos in the works so you should be seeing those up within the next few months
🙋thank you
Nice tutorial, thanks. Gelcoat in fish tank...yes, gelcoat has several types in the market. Ask for "food-grade". Gelcoats are simply polyester resin mixed with cab-o-sil, an anti sag agent + pigment.
Great video, but for us new guys a bit slower on product names and mixtures. But I got it after 3 or 4 rewinds. LOL. Very informative!!!
Hi there, I am fiberglassing in new balsa core on my boat and have to glass (tab) the sides. Just to clarify my question, where the corner meets the deck from the sides, do I have to use a filet since 1700 doesn't bend to sharp radius or can I use matt followed by 1700 or would 1708 do just fine if I use the matt side down?
Also my thinking is that 1:1 epoxy or table top epoxy though not "structural" would still be better then using poly resin for putting down before laying down the core to fill any voids since it is thick. Do you see any issues with this?
fantastic job and very clear instructions...thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the lesson.
Nice job!
I really enjoyed your video, really interesting and I learned a lot. Thank you! I was wondering how much material was used per square meter? The chopped strand and cloth is a no brainer, but the polyester and gel coat? lets say all liquids? how many liters or gallons does it take using this technique? per M2? Thanks once again. :-)
hey,I like that roller! looks easy to clean.
How do you know you got bubbles out if you cant see them.
nice work mate
Just a thought but can't we use an iron on the fiberglass to make a fold?
Thank you for this video. It's very interesting for me since i have a plan to do almost exactly the same on my small boat. Also i have one question that is very important to me and that is how to connect this cabin to superstructure right way?
Thanks!
Hi Sorry for the late reply. they are often bonded using a bonding paste such as free fix or in some cases a thickened epoxy. then they are fibreglassed into place around teh bottom edge with more fibreglass and resin.
I can see the corner layers of strand mat in the final product. This is not something I would want. So I'm thinking maybe to use some sort of feathering filler to blend in the transition. Even use a feathering or fairing filler to create a smoother more glasslike appearance.
Either would work, but what we tend to do is make sure there's enough material left at the edges to let you trim back, then sand off any rough edges left
Hi, we can only advise on applications directly to good quality marine ply
David the way to avoid that is to use hand torn pieces of fibreglass rather than a piece cut with a blade.
I am filling in 10 holes on the bottom of my 50 foot yacht. The holes are 10x12 from Mogar Yacht Transport Company. Their insurance company will not be responsible because someone said to them it has dry rot. Anyway....I pulled away some of the busted boards to view the ribs. Pulling the bronze screws created huge holes an inch apart. Should I use bondo as a filler, or fiberglass or epoxy resin (the holes are an inch apart) to fill the holes. Remember, I have to work upside down.
Hi Eric, send the question to sales@ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk with some pictures if you can, and we'll be able to give some advice
Acetone can loosen the glue bond on the outside layer of the plywood, it is a solvent.
+Walkertongdee t's just a quick rub off m8...that won't do any harm to the wood glue bond....lol
+Walkertongdee The amount he used would flash off before it penetrated that deep.
+Alex Bond Thats what I thought but the plywood I used had a micro thin veneer not good..
+Walkertongdee Thats what I thought but the plywood I used had a micro thin veneer not good..
Nice video,he knows his stuff.
I buy boat then work plywood replace first time I want know which white gel coat with fiberglass put plywood ? search for the paint floor plywood which what kind.
Excellent video, with lots of helpful good tips and tricks. What is the weight of the surface tissue you used? Thank you for this awesome video.
Hi, the tissue is 30g
Thank you. Very helpful.
Regards Rowan
can you purpose what type of local exhaust ventilation system suitable for this process?
I've been FG a long time but I've never thought of the 'silk' sheet.. you result is really good considering no mould.. I can think of a few projects that I could have made better with this technique.......
Thanks nice video, can I use varnish on my fiber glass project rather than paint?
Since you're the expert, I'd like to know if I can fiberglass cardboard or foam, to create a removable deck for my canoe that could handle 250lbs+ walking on it. If so, how thick should it be too. TIA
BTW, I don't want any support underneath so I still have storage space.
Hi Bob, this isn't something we could help with, unfortunately. We may be able to give you some advice on using a core material and fibreglass for the canoe if you want to send us an email at tech@ecfcomposites.co.uk
Many thanks for the excellent video. Is one sheet of chopped strand matting enough to protect the plywood? On other marine applications people tend to use three and four layers? Would more layers laid in different directions result in less chance of cracking of the fibreglass? I've never done any fibreglassing but may in the future and it would be a sizeable area so couldn't afford to have cracking.
Hi Fred, in most applications especially on flat areas one layer is enough. notice we apply two layers on joins and corner as these are the problem area and weak spots. also we have applied a primer layer and also the gelcoat and flowcoat. Depending on what grade you use and how good you are at laminating one layer should suffice and this often the specification for GRP roofs. we used 450g matting here but if we only had 300g i'd be applying two layers. Having said that it depends on the stress levels and size of the project, for a bigger boat cabin I'd probably use two layers and a much stronger sub structure. On more structural parts and in areas that may receive wear and tear such as decks id go for two or three.
So how layers of 450g chopped strand did you use on this project? Also how many coats of gel coat did you put on before the final flow coat layer?
Hi 1 layer and a tissue only i believe, and 1 gelcoat before Flowcoat too, hope this helps, best rgds
Thanks for this really excellent tutorial. I've only ever done basic fibreglassing so learnt a lot here. What I wondered is - could the basic wheelhouse have been built using Glassonite (as used for truck bodies) to give a head start on the fibreglassing, or would that be a stupid / pointless idea?
I'm afraid we don't have any experience with Glassonite so are unable to advise
Nice one👍
One question please, need gelcoat add with wax for final coat?
Hello, I'm refurbishing a 48 year old trawler (wood) her wood house which I believe is plywood seems to have a non-skid type or sand paint finish on it which makes it look very commercial. I would prefer a smooth gel-coat looking finish. My thoughts were to sand it smooth and go over it with a light fiberglass skin and then prep for usual fiberglass painting. Does that sound right to you? Or can you recommend a better process?
Hi, you'd have to grind off the textured stuff or grind off most of it and fair it off before applying a fibreglass skin over the top
excellent video....just what i was looking for.
Outstanding video. I learned much.
Thanks for all the education.
Number
why did you say when doing the edges that you should stipple and not roll the fiberglass resin in, but then when you did the 'large" areas you rolled the resin in instead of stippling?
It makes it easier to control how much resin you're using and makes sure you get good coverage using the different methods in different areas. If you used the roller on the edges you might get dry spots, or too much resin on the side etc
Also is it better to fiberglass the wooden deck directly to the aluminum side of boat for sealing or would flexing cause fiberglass to crack?
The fibreglass would likely crack, or not bond very well to the aluminium
Great work! Thanks for the inspiration.
After the Flowcoat, was the surface smooth? Not sure if it was because of the light, but right before the Flowcoat the surface looked vey textured. But then the last picture when you finished looked very matter and smooth.
You will have some texture on the surface from application, it needs to be polished back slightly
which chemicals are used for fibreglassing onto plywood and in what quantity ?
I noticed you didn't sand or grind back where you previously glasses. Nothing for one layer to bond to the other. Will separate over time.
As long as the application is within 12 hours of the resin/gelcoat curing, it's still fresh enough to achieve a good chemical bond
great video will coming to for my product
Lengthy process that turned out anything but a smooth finish.
Yes good point. however if this was a project not limited by budget it would be a different video of making a plug, a mould to produce a smooth fiberglass wheelhouse (there are loads of them on youtube) . We wanted to answer a regular question we often get on how to sheath wood with chopped strand matting and polyester resin. luckily a guy asked us to do this for him as he only had a small budget and he didn't care about the cosmetics for his old fishing boat. so we thought we may as well show anyone else that's interested in the process and it only took us an 8 hour working day from start to finish and most of that was just waiting for stages to cure.
Im wanting to take out part of one of the lounge seats in my run about and put an area for walking when boarding the boat from the stern. Can I just build a plywood box then gel coat it so it looks like the rest of the boat?
the stig mach 1 Hi you would need a layer of chopped strand glass down first to enable a proper bond to the material, hope this helps
Would it be better to use a roller? I am redoing the inside of my boat and would like to know
The gelcoat and flowcoat are designed to be applied by brush, you don't get good coverage with a roller
the white resin you use it in the beginning is the same wooden resin or white resin for fiber glass only. even, please can you write to me the mix percentage for each coat. thank you.
Hi the white resin is polyester resin used in laminating, the latter is a Gelcoat, ie thicker resin with wax in , hope this helps,
Is it not necessary to glass the interior, only the exterior? Is the interior painted white or brushed with the white resin?
We don't recommend these products for use indoors etc
🎉🎉🎉
Just wondering how good is the finish , or is there anything else or extra that can be done to ensure a seamless finish ie Bondo etc
+CORRIGEEN71 Bury everything with the unwaxed gelcoat, like three or four coats. Then hit with the waxed gelcoat (flowcoat) and then once that is kicked sand it smooth with fine grits of sandpaper. Then polish. Wont be as good as a mold finish but will look pretty good.
how much did it cost / you charge for that GRP finish ?
Hi, unfortunately we do not carry out manufacturing or GRP work ourselves, we only supply the materials. I can’t remember the exact size of this project? but I think it was between 2.5 or 3 sqr mtrs of materials needed. So, if we were to price up the materials costs today based on 3 sqr mtr and the same materials used, it would come to £218.26 which includes the current 20% UK VAT and delivery.
Below is a break down in required materials and individual costs, also below are the links to these materials (prices correct as of 13.11.23) : -
A GRP medium tool pack which includes:
3 x 1 L Acetone
3 x 10L Buckets
2 x 5L Buckets
2 x 3" Brushes
1 x 6" Paddle Roller
1 x 6" Nylon Roller
1 x Refill
1 x Catalyst Dispenser
2 x large Turbomix Mixing sticks current Price £37.64 +vat.
2kg pack 450g chopped strand matting current price £10.80+vat.
3 mtr surface tissue current price £5.25+vat
Approximately 7.5kg of Lloyds approved white resin to wet out the above and allow for any wastage. 5kg plus a 2.5kg tin current price works out at £58.90 +vat.
2.5kg 65pa white 337 gelcoat -current price £19.95+vat
2x 1kg white 337 flowcoat (request extra wax to be added if rolling on and ensure good working temperature-controlled conditions of around 15-18degC) current price - 23.90+vat.
1kg 491pa resin (we can thin this down for you upon request for priming) current price 14.95+vat.
1kg EC42 filler current price £9.95+vat
Standard UK mainland delivery (some restrictions apply due to hazardous material see our online shipping terms) £10.50.
Subtotal £191.84 …. Total price including 20% UK VAT £230.20
Links to materials: -
www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/grp-tool-pack-1-medium
www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/450g-15-oz-chopped-strand-matting-965mm-wide
www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/surface-tissue
www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/lloyd's-approved-polyester-resin-white-inc-catalyst-crystic-2-446pa
www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/scott-bader-white-337-polyester-gelcoat
www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/white-337-scott-bader-polyester-flowcoat
www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/crystic-491-pa-resin-including-catalyst
www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/ec42-easy-sand-filler
Good video. I learned a lot. Thank you.
Excellent tutorial. What is the "tissue" that you used? I went to your web page and could not find it. Perhaps it is the satin weave. Thank you for the time.
Hi this is surface tissue , its under fibreglass matting, thanks for the kind comments,
2:55 why would you mix ‘bondo’ with a round-end stick instead of a spreader or a putty knife??!! This seems nuts.
Most of the structure had been done earlier with larger mixes and metal spreading knives. we left only one screw hole and mixed only a tiny amount for the benefit of demonstrating. The main subject of the video is fibreglassing onto plywood rather than how to mix bondo which I'm sure most users know how to do? if they don't know how to mix body filler I'd say put down the fibreglass and resin and walk away 😀.
Best video, one question, would you please explain why we need add styrene 7%, as it is a primer coat?
Styrene thins the resin so it can be used as a primecoat to prepare the plywood so the fibreglass will bond
How much would you charge for a job similar to this?
I can still see that you did the edges separately
yes you will see imperfections with most shoe string budget applications. Its all comes down to budget and if the project is worth going down the moulding route which is highly advised if you want a perfect flawless moulded part. Also there are application methods that can be used to hide joins and other material options to not have joins visible but these are already covered in our other videos. we simply wanted to cover a low cost application.
i am living in Ukraine and i am planing to build a concrete swimming
pool coated with fiberglass but unfortunately in my area there is no
specialist to do a fiberglass work so i has to do it by myself and i
will get a help from friends . please can you advice me what kind and
type of material i need for such work - type of resin and what kind of
fiberglass mate - and how many layer should i apply - what type of file
coat ? - thank you
+ngc charle Hello, you'd be better off doing a search online for a guide to building your own fibreglass swimming pool
here in the US fiberglass pools are pre made like a boat hull in a mold and are cheaper than a cement pool.If I were you I'd research the new finishing methods for cement/concrete and just use that.It will be nicer and longer lasting.
I have a place in Bulgaria and the only thing I would consider a fiberglass pool for is if it was off the ground,like on a roof or raised area where weight was a concern.Or maybe a small hot tub inside etc.Otherwise I'd ue concrete.
Nice video, will be helpful for others.
Hi great video learned a lot here, just wondering can you spray paint over the Flowcoat once it has cured? I'm wanting to do this to the hull of my boat and want to know if I should just pigment the flowcoat or can spraypaint designs over it? cheers in advance.
I am considering buying a 1970 boat with a wood plank bottom. I'm thinking it would be a good investment to fiberglass over the bottom of the boat to ease maintainence. What is your opinion and how would you go about doing it? It's a 32' boat. Thanks for any advice you can offer.
Hello, please visit our website and give us a call for technical advice.
I typically don't offer advice, but you might want to consider the incredible amount of labor involved, plus cost of materials and a significant amount of added weight. if the hole is in good shape I would just consider a barrier coat and a good anti-fouling paint on the bottom. For above the waterline, I've always had excellent results with interlux brightside rolled on with a fine nap roller and tipped with a brush. I have seen a few clients Hull boats that were last over and I'm also familiar with the Ackerman Newporter 40, which were fiberglass over plywood construction.I have yet to see one that didn't delaminate and rot underneath. those are just a few of the things that I would consider in a situation such as yours. Cheers.
Oh brother. I really should proofread, so I can go back and correct the autocorrect.
Wouldn't epoxy resin make adhesion far better and more impervious to moisture. Its bombproof.
Excellent video & nice presebtatiin.
Also have some Question please.
Do need Poliester resin thined with stirine for to prime coat?
What about the Cobalt aaded into resin? Or your resin pre added with Cobalt?
Do we need Gelcoat thinned with Acetone/Styrine before applied?
Your reply will be highly appreciated
We use Crystic 491pa as a prime coat and all of our resins are preaccelerated with cobalt (that's what pa means in the name). Our gelcoat is for brush application and should be applied unthinned for best results
@@ecfibreglassuk can you please tell me, can we add Polyester Resin into powder form of Gelcoat for brushable & thin with either Styrene or Acetone?
(I am from india, not available pre added cobalt resin.)
@@sunilkumararickattu1845 We can only really advise on the products we sell
In nz sheathing timber with polyester is a sin. Epoxy is industry standard here for sheathing . Polyester resin only for molds. I’ve always questioned this standard. I prefer working with polyester over epoxy for price and toxicity
That's a good point raised. Epoxy is the best choice but not in everyone's budget and we have quite a few customers alergic to the amines. However it can be done with polyester but alot of users miss out that very important tie coat of thinned down isophthalic resin which if not applied causes bonding issues. boats were sheathed for many years with polyester before epoxies came along however if we were doing this without a budget it would definitely be done in epoxy.
@@ecfibreglassuk I’m building a 10m boat using Dave Gerr scantling. I ended up going with polyester over pine. I made 3 sample tests of 12000g cloth on plywood. Sample 1 control group epoxy. Sample 2 polyester with primer coat over polyester reduced with acetone 30% and 3% cobalt inhibitor. Sample 3 polyester with 30% styrene reduced primer and cobalt. Both sample 2 and 3 adhesive to ply on a tear test were identical. 1/2 the surface tore the laminate off the marine ply. So it’s effectively bond as strong as the ply laminate which is a pass in my opinion. Epoxy tore nearly all the 1st laminate of ply off making it stronger than the ply bond. Basically weakest link is the ply.
Would i use this same method to make my own planters🤔
The method is the same to fibreglass any type of ply
It is a handy video but it is a shame that the different layers around the edges remain visible in the finished item.
+Andrew Banner Its the roof of a boat noone is going to see it. Waste of time/money
Do you need to wait for cure on mat before tissue layer or would this be done whilst wet?
When wet. But you can do it later too. However should do it at the same time with ghe chopmat as it soaks up exess resin.
Why are you using chopped strand matt instead of cloth? cloth creates a much stronger finished product.
Pierre Mitham iTS just cladding.. no strength needed.. it for the weather proofing ...
So every screw head should be covered before glassing? I am working for a guy that has almost half a bost built and has not done that to one screw .What will happen if one does not cover screw with epxoy
+timothy thomas Hello, covering the screws really applies to using polyester resins and gelcoats, as they will not cure onto metal or could leave a weakened spot that will cause you problems later.
Most epoxies tend to bond just fine to metal.
Ok we are using epoxy resin . Thanks God Bless
EastCoastFibreglass
What is used to cover the screw heads??
You said that gelcoat dries tacky, so what are all those super shiny white boats you see in the marina finish with, as i always thought that was gelcoat?
Gelcoat dries tacky, unless it's sealed off from the air while it's curing. You can either add an MW wax solution to the gel, which makes it a flowcoat, or a topcoat, or the gel is used as the first layer in the mould which does the same job
Perhaps they are wheel brushed.
Hi great vid with loads of tips, can I ask after adding the prime coat Would I need to wait for the prime coat to cure before moving on to the Fibreglassing, thanks.
Cure times depend on temperature etc. You want the prime coat to have tacked off
@@ecfibreglassuk thank you for the reply, sorry what do you mean by tacked off (my first time Fibreglassing). As in semi dry and tacky?
@@djbanger Yes
@@ecfibreglassuk thanks just received my order today🤞🏾👍🏽👍🏽
Can you apply the final coat with a roller on large projects?
The flowcoat goes on much better with a brush, a roller would leave too many undersaturated areas and doesn't give good coverage. Because the flowcoat has a wax additive, you only get one chance at it.
sory to ask.Polyester resign is not white colour normally.why yours is white? did you add something inside? (my english is bad sori)
sancak099 It sounds like he had it pigmented.
+sancak099 you can take poly resin and pigment it with a pigment of add a small amount of gel coat i have my gel coat deliverd in white so as a base if i need it i add a small amount of gel coat also if you are working above your head you cam mix a some resin with a lot of gel coat in it this will enable you to get something the glass will grab on to to lay up without droping
+jimmey beven Never thought of adding gel to resin good idea. Ive run into problems pigmenting poly resin where it didnt kick hard (maybe too much pigment I stopped doing it)
Hi, Looking on your website i cannot find some of the recomended resins and equipments. Has any of it changed?
Poor man's fiberglass video and you're all set, glue and paint.
Why would I use twice the materials, plywood and fiberglass, can you just seal the wood and that's it? I don get it, if it's a template I'm fine but if you going to left the wood in there what's the point
You could seal the wood with epoxy resin if you wanted to save steps but if it's scratched or damaged on the surface, moisture may get into the wood and damage it over time. This way there's more of a protective shell on the wood, and damage is easy to spot and repair.
I see , but the reason behind the fiberglass is to reduce weight , so making a template will be more usefull, like the hood of my truck , it came from factory in 3 pieces and glued together , that's a good job there, but ey, is fine I just wanted to know why you where doinging in that way,thanks and good job anyway
@@desvariosdeuncamionero8856 Hi, sometimes using fibreglass is to reduce weight. Sometimes (in this case) it's a cheap and effective way to replace the wheelhouse on your boat if it's damaged/aged badly
Are those cold mold for bath tubs stacked in the background?
They're liferaft moulds for RFD Beaufort
Instead of using a brush can I use a polyurethane roller that's non absorbent to time reduction
We only recommend using the tools we've used here - tried and tested
@@ecfibreglassuk well you did use a roller are the large area. What type of roller was it?
The flowcoat is applied with a brush czcams.com/video/TzkWeuC0yPs/video.html
The white resin is applied with a 100mm nylon roller czcams.com/video/TzkWeuC0yPs/video.html
a pleasure to watch excellent
Wow. This is by far the vry best how to fiberglass video I've ever seen :-D Great teacher, I'll be sure to drop by your website. Do you ship to the US?
We can't ship to the US unfortunately.
Tea
untamedlion33 if it this is the best video you've seen you haven't watched very many
Is the finish as smooth as a fibreglass sheeting grp gell coat finish???
Hello, your finish is only as good as the effort you put into achieving it
Why not use epoxy resin instead of polyester? That sticks better, lasts longer and doesn't give off that horrid smell.
+Grobbekee Styrene doesn't bother some people (it does me FWIW) Polyester is much more user friendly, less expensive, and epoxy would require a paint to be applied on the top. Gelcoat will not adhere to epoxy. Epoxy does have a place in the FRP world but IMO this project is better done the way it was.
I have used both ( epoxy and polyester resin ) in same jobs. Epoxy can be used as first layer, diluted with alcohol or xylene to have the same effect what is done here with styrene+resin. However, using styrene in styrene-based resin makes it weak, so several layers of diluted mixture must be applied. Simple solution is NOT to dilute the resin, it will form excellent base for the laminating as it is. I have used just a piece of rubber ( or sharp iron piece...your visa card will do fine ) to smoothen the surface, filling the holes with resin before it cures totally. The plywood will soak it in as much as needed. I know many pro´s uses this diluting method, but it has very little benefit. I have scattered several plywood-glassfibering structures, and glassfibers are loosen, even the plywood under seems to be sealed with resin. If dilluted resin, the surface is rotten or dusty. Using a lot of resin for the the first layer improves the "sticking" even polyester is not good as glue. Use small nails after second layer of glass ! Good news for anyone thinking can we use topcoat over the epoxy ? Yes! it works quite well, even there is no chemical bond between the layers. But if normal topcoat is layed on old laminate, that is also polyester-based, there is NO chemical bond, the radical molecyles have long gone, and basically the benefit of polyester-to-polyester is lost. Only benefit is that your topcoat will not have bad chemical reactions over the polyester laminate. My conclusion:- always do good prework, sanding, and sealing with resin- avoid the diluting, it makes resins weak. Trust me.- if you change resin, let the latest layer cure totally before switching to new materials/resin.- sand before the new resin- if same resin is used in laminate and in the topcoat, you´ll save some sanding if you work in a day.