Marshall I want to thank you for making these videos I am a mechanic but I have never done any transmission work before other than just swap em out. And I have a 2001 f250 7.3 that I have towed a lot with and the torque converter lock up stopped working and after watching your video I decided to take it apart and replace the torque and the valves in the pump. Thanks for the confidence!! . It's working perfectly
Awesome I’m glad my videos gave you confidence to make that happen. One of the main reasons for doing these videos. Being a mechanic your fully capable of doing it just need the right guidance. Transmissions aren’t rocket science just more complicated than most repairs on a vehicle is all. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the video lessons. In Ukraine, there is little information about the E4OD automatic transmission. Not all workshops want to repair. Here you have to figure it out
Ukraine wow that’s pretty cool! I have a bunch of videos on rebuilding this transmission. Should be all the info you need to get it done right. Just take your time
@@marshallsanders5672 I was already in a hurry. And he did not succeed. the first and second gears engage, and the third and fourth do not engage. First, I will check the oil pressure and then I will disassemble it again
Yeah that is a simple but effective way to check the gears for wear. A person can set up the pump”dry” and check everything with a feeler guage but this is much simpler way! Thanks for the Comment
I learn so much from you I will be building my first e4od I have a 95 f250 4x4 I am reserecting and it needs help thank uou so very much gor all uou do and all of uour knowledge
Ford took a while to get the pump’s design right on the early units. You should mention the differences regarding petrol and diesel applications and why it is very important not to mismatch the pumps.
Just want to say, you have a video that shows how you can check the intermediate clutch freeplay. Thank God I watched this video [and the others about the E4OD] because I am on the last stretch and when I went to check it, I found that the adjustment is too tight. I have no idea why your videos do not get watched more often. They are very informative. Maybe that is the reason, people don't want to learn anymore, they just want someone to tell you how to do it. Preferably, you doing it for them.
First off thank you for the comment! With that said I am determined to Put out good, informative videos to getting it “right and tight” because otherwise it won’t last. The intermediate clearance is such a simple procedure but nobody talks about it!!! You clearly pay attention and that’s what it takes to build transmissions. Happy Building my friend
@@marshallsanders5672 Without a doubt, I have not seen anything about that. 35 years wrenching on Mercedes, is something I know. Ford? That is foreign to me. In the end, the transmission was installed last night and it moves forward and as a bonus, also backwards. Double bonus is the right shifter position. Just got to get the shifts to feel good. 3-4 is a bit to firm for me. Again, I've watched a lot of video's and yours was #1 in my book.
Awesome! That’s all Im looking to do is spread “proper” knowledge. It’s so important to get EVERYTHING right with transmissions otherwise you know the consequences! Working on Mercedes is no joke my friend! Mercedes’ transmissions are intricate as well, very interesting building the early Mercedes units. I couldn’t be happier your trans is working properly for you! What shift kit did you use? Should be easy to adjust the 3-4 shift in that accumulator valvebody.
@@marshallsanders5672 The early Mercedes transmissions were pretty interesting. Seems like when the Germans had a problem, they would just add another control valve in the valve body. I played with the electronics on this E4OD and made no difference. The Tugger kit was drilled at .094 and I suspect I will have to reduce the size of the hole. Mercedes method was to use two ball bearings. One on top and one on the bottom of the hole. You showed using a flat plate on the bottom and a bearing on top. Different methods to achieve the same thing. The only real issue is that the original rebuilt transmission had a similar hard 3-4. Since I rebuilt a core, nothing is the same but the EEC-IV ECU.
That pump is better then new Marshall, you do amazing work, that transmission is going to be the best transmission my truck has ever had , I’m looking to pulling the heads off weekend after next then sending them out to be rebuilt. Like always great video
For the Torque Converter Lockup Firmness what would you recommend for a Billet Triple Disc Converter from PATC in a Truck that Tows 10-12K Trailer? Not towing that amount of Weight every day. Thanks Again for your advise. Running the Tugger Kit, it says .76 for Normal .82 for Firm and .93 for Firmest.
The triple disc converters tend to lock-up a bit on the firmer side anyway because they have so much clutch surface area to them. With what your planning on doing with the truck I personally would go .082 and expect it to be a little aggressive when not towing but shouldn’t be to abrupt. To firm(not good) To soft (not) good. Just right is key and it’s somewhat of a guessing game but that’s where I would go with your application.
It is but no easy! Pump alignment is Critical so it’s in alignment with the centerline of the transmission and the Crankshaft. 3 ways I’ve done it without the band are (1). Use a strait edge put the halves together like normal, just finger tighten bolts down for slight resistance but the halves will move. Use your strait edge and eagle eye with a light and go around the pump many times until the 2 halves are in perfect alignment. Done this many times it’s tedious but it works! (2)Alignment pins work well just have to find the perfect size for the holes your putting the pins in Drill Bits/ dowels etc. this works well as well just check with strait edge after torqued! (3) put the two halves finger tight upsidown in the case align holes and torque down. Also recheck with straitedge and make sure it’s perfect. I’ve done all 3 of these procedures with much success just have to be patient and keep adjusting til it’s perfect. Hope this helps
Another great video. Ill be building my E4od as soon as I can get this friggin silverado outta my driveway. Im feelng pretty good about doing it now. Thanks again man.
@@marshallsanders5672 thanks man. got the E4OD all torn down. Got a little groove action on the pump body where the pump gear rides. Can I sand that a little and replace the gears, or do I replace the whole pump body casting?
Rodney Happy New Year ! It’s always a judgement call on that one. If you can completely sand out the grooves with 600 sandpaper and the grooves aren’t deep at all then yes that and new pump gears are ok.
Hey Marshall, wonder if you could help steer me in the right direction. This 4r100 won't quit leaking. It's just a little drip while running coming from the bell housing. We've replaced the end seal, pulled out the pump and replaced those seals, put in a new torque converter, but there's still a drip. Transmission works fine. What am I missing?
Alex, Unfortunately that is a gotta be there situation to really tell where its leaking. Is this the reason you pulled it out ? sometimes I've seen where someone before Gouged either the case or the front pump body seal area and caused a leak. Did you change the bushing ? 600 grit or finer on the converter hub ? when you pull it out look VERY close for any Cracks in the case or Pump Body itself. Just have to search until you find the exact cause should be obvious when you do actually find it . Something also I’ve learned over the years is when a chronic problem like this arises search UNTIL you find the problem don’t just reseal it and hope it’s fixed.
@@marshallsanders5672 it's been rebuilt by somebody before so I guess now I'm chasing some one elses problem. Thanks for the advice. Cracks is kinda what I was thinking.
Just to clarify it seems it shifted and you heard a bang and NOW all you have is park and basically neutral in every other gear ? If this is the case something BROKE or STRIPPED inside the unit. If it has park the Transfer case seems fine so a tear down and inspection of the transmission is necessary.
Hi Marshall! I have a question regarding converter lock up. I have a 95 7.3 e4od and notice that there is a delay (rpms jump up 200, then back down) when the truck is in OD mode (OD button ON) in the 3rd to OD shift at around 40ish mph. If I keep the trans in drive (OD button OFF) and accelerate to 45ish then manually push the OD, I will not have that jump in rpms like I do if driving in OD “on” through all the gears. Seems the 3rd-4th shift happens too early before TC pressure locks up. I believe it’s the TC lockup delay in 3rd to OD 4th gear shift. The TC locks/unlocks as it should earlier in the 2nd-3rd shift. All gears shift firm and crisp. Do the front pump mods in the tugger kit improve the tc lockup in OD? Thanks for your help and been trying to troubleshoot this issue as I feel like it will ware the TC prematurely.
What is most likely happening here is the computer control of the torque converter “just” before it shifts into O/D. I noticed this in the transmission I have done all these videos about ! Under med to heavy throttle the computer will unlock the torque converter just before the O/D shift (200 rpm rise) shift into O/D then lock it back up once it’s in O/D This may be what your feeling with the TC O/D shift. It is all in the PROGRAM of the computer which they didn’t get quite “Right” on the early transmissions. When your in O/D off it appears the torque converter locks up in 3rd and when you push the button and shifts into O/D Without the torque converter unlocking if that makes sense ? It’s all in the “Programming” of the computer and again they didn’t get it quite “right” so to speak. Let me know if this is what’s happening or whether there is an actual problem inside the trans!
@@marshallsanders5672 that’s exactly right! The unlock-OD shift happens almost same time. When I’m heavy throttle the tc doesn’t unlock prior and stays locked into OD. All makes sense and it is intermittent while under light throttle. Plus mine is behind a 7.3 PSD. I will see if my tuner can command TC to stay locked in 3rd regardless of throttle. Thanks for your help buddy! All makes sense now
Outstanding. Learned so much on this video. Do have question on delayed reverse and shift kits though. The one I have had a restrictor orifice in low reverse feed worm holes. That just really confused me, so I pulled it. The original rebuild (the expensive one) had that restrictor and I pulled it out. Maybe I screwed up but the 3 second delay is now less than a second. Do you know the purpose of the restrictor in the low reverse hole in the worm passages? Thanks to you my transmission is in my Excursion and is operating perfectly.....so far. I cannot say it enough THANK YOU!
Yes The theory behind the restrictor is to Slow down the apply of that clutch in hopes it will not cause a Harsh engagement ! Which is counterintuitive to getting that clutch on sooner than the Direct Clutch which generally IS the cause of a harsh Engagement in the first place. Never made sense to me but some Shift kit companies seem to think it is a better strategy. I never put that cup plug in any of my transmissions. And also can cause a delay because it will come on slower. You did the correct thing in pulling out the orifice. Good Call ! Sounds like success to me my friend ! Good Stuff !
@@marshallsanders5672 Ok that makes sense and assures a novice. Its that cup plug that killed an expensive transmission. While stuck in snow it was put in reverse. Snow is slippery and driver did not know transmission had not engaged yet and applied accelerator. 3 seconds later that transmission kicked in and BANG! Low reverse pinion spun in low reverse hub. STUPID CUP PLUG!!!
@@rodshuffy4045 Gotcha DAMN ! Yep STUPID Cup Plug but that's all it takes. That makes all the sense now. Snow and Transmissions generally don't play nice together anyway ! Glad to hear your success Story
Yes I mean 1and 1/2 thousandths .0015 5 thousandths or .005 is way to much and will create pump pressure and volume problems. .002-.0022 is about MAX to ensure there are no problems in that area.
Hi Marshall, I have a question about concerns with my stator half of my pump. It is a 99 4r100 pump but the PR valve bore is so worn that I cannot pull a vacuum at all. The TCC valve passes with a vacuum of 18-20” Hg. Any suggestions? Is that usable with a sonnax orifice pr valve?
Damn, That's a tough one depending on how worn out it is ! sounds like it is pretty worn out. The sonnax valve will compensate for bore wear to a point. Only two other options are buy a used body and hope its not worn out or buy the oversized Pressure regulator valve but this requires the purchase of the reaming tool which is pretty expensive. Wish I had an easy answer but those are your choices.
Thanks Marshall, I’ll see if I can track down a good used pump, I’ve got the cast od drum too so as long as I order a non PWM body I should be able to swap the stator shaft if need be?
Yes, however the pump is a 99 probably due to someone upgrading the pump to a higher capacity from stock. I’m assuming it would’ve had an F5 casting originally being a 97 E4OD?
Hi Marshall, I’ve been thinking about what you said about 99 being likely a PWM pump, and since my front half has 99 on it I’m beginning to think it’s a bitsa coupled to the original stator half as a way of increasing the output of the pump? Also I have a question about my build. I have a 92 7.3idi f250 and was wondering if I should add a friction to the forward drum for a 5 friction arrangement omitting the cushion spring? I have already sanded down the old bevel plate for the direct drum and clearance checked it. How harsh is the engagement without the cushion plate and would I need the extra clutch in forward?
Marshall I want to thank you for making these videos I am a mechanic but I have never done any transmission work before other than just swap em out. And I have a 2001 f250 7.3 that I have towed a lot with and the torque converter lock up stopped working and after watching your video I decided to take it apart and replace the torque and the valves in the pump. Thanks for the confidence!! . It's working perfectly
Awesome I’m glad my videos gave you confidence to make that happen. One of the main reasons for doing these videos. Being a mechanic your fully capable of doing it just need the right guidance. Transmissions aren’t rocket science just more complicated than most repairs on a vehicle is all. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the video lessons. In Ukraine, there is little information about the E4OD automatic transmission. Not all workshops want to repair. Here you have to figure it out
Ukraine wow that’s pretty cool! I have a bunch of videos on rebuilding this transmission. Should be all the info you need to get it done right. Just take your time
@@marshallsanders5672 I was already in a hurry. And he did not succeed. the first and second gears engage, and the third and fourth do not engage. First, I will check the oil pressure and then I will disassemble it again
I always learn something watching trans videos from the pros.
never knew how to check for worn pump gears, 22:30 made it clear, thanks.
Yeah that is a simple but effective way to check the gears for wear. A person can set up the pump”dry” and check everything with a feeler guage but this is much simpler way! Thanks for the Comment
Thanks for time stamping dude, always appreciate it !!!
I watched a video about E4OD and I will think that with my automatic transmission. Repairing automatic transmission for the first time.
I learn so much from you I will be building my first e4od I have a 95 f250 4x4 I am reserecting and it needs help thank uou so very much gor all uou do and all of uour knowledge
Your welcome thanks for watching really appreciate the comments my friend
Ford took a while to get the pump’s design right on the early units.
You should mention the differences regarding petrol and diesel applications and why it is very important not to mismatch the pumps.
Yes they did, Not sure what you mean by differences in petrol and diesel applications teach me something 🤔
Just want to say, you have a video that shows how you can check the intermediate clutch freeplay. Thank God I watched this video [and the others about the E4OD] because I am on the last stretch and when I went to check it, I found that the adjustment is too tight. I have no idea why your videos do not get watched more often. They are very informative. Maybe that is the reason, people don't want to learn anymore, they just want someone to tell you how to do it. Preferably, you doing it for them.
First off thank you for the comment! With that said I am determined to Put out good, informative videos to getting it “right and tight” because otherwise it won’t last. The intermediate clearance is such a simple procedure but nobody talks about it!!! You clearly pay attention and that’s what it takes to build transmissions. Happy Building my friend
@@marshallsanders5672 Without a doubt, I have not seen anything about that. 35 years wrenching on Mercedes, is something I know. Ford? That is foreign to me. In the end, the transmission was installed last night and it moves forward and as a bonus, also backwards. Double bonus is the right shifter position. Just got to get the shifts to feel good. 3-4 is a bit to firm for me.
Again, I've watched a lot of video's and yours was #1 in my book.
Awesome! That’s all Im looking to do is spread “proper” knowledge. It’s so important to get EVERYTHING right with transmissions otherwise you know the consequences! Working on Mercedes is no joke my friend! Mercedes’ transmissions are intricate as well, very interesting building the early Mercedes units. I couldn’t be happier your trans is working properly for you!
What shift kit did you use? Should be easy to adjust the 3-4 shift in that accumulator valvebody.
@@marshallsanders5672 The early Mercedes transmissions were pretty interesting. Seems like when the Germans had a problem, they would just add another control valve in the valve body. I played with the electronics on this E4OD and made no difference. The Tugger kit was drilled at .094 and I suspect I will have to reduce the size of the hole. Mercedes method was to use two ball bearings. One on top and one on the bottom of the hole. You showed using a flat plate on the bottom and a bearing on top. Different methods to achieve the same thing. The only real issue is that the original rebuilt transmission had a similar hard 3-4. Since I rebuilt a core, nothing is the same but the EEC-IV ECU.
That pump is better then new Marshall, you do amazing work, that transmission is going to be the best transmission my truck has ever had , I’m looking to pulling the heads off weekend after next then sending them out to be rebuilt. Like always great video
Yep, She's a happy pump going into a happy transmission !
For the Torque Converter Lockup Firmness what would you recommend for a Billet Triple Disc Converter from PATC in a Truck that Tows 10-12K Trailer? Not towing that amount of Weight every day. Thanks Again for your advise. Running the Tugger Kit, it says .76 for Normal .82 for Firm and .93 for Firmest.
The triple disc converters tend to lock-up a bit on the firmer side anyway because they have so much clutch surface area to them. With what your planning on doing with the truck I personally would go .082 and expect it to be a little aggressive when not towing but shouldn’t be to abrupt. To firm(not good) To soft (not) good. Just right is key and it’s somewhat of a guessing game but that’s where I would go with your application.
Hi Marshall, is it still possible to assemble the convertor without the large band clamp shown in your video?
It is but no easy! Pump alignment is Critical so it’s in alignment with the centerline of the transmission and the Crankshaft.
3 ways I’ve done it without the band are
(1). Use a strait edge put the halves together like normal, just finger tighten bolts down for slight resistance but the halves will move. Use your strait edge and eagle eye with a light and go around the pump many times until the 2 halves are in perfect alignment. Done this many times it’s tedious but it works!
(2)Alignment pins work well just have to find the perfect size for the holes your putting the pins in Drill Bits/ dowels etc. this works well as well just check with strait edge after torqued!
(3) put the two halves finger tight upsidown in the case align holes and torque down. Also recheck with straitedge and make sure it’s perfect. I’ve done all 3 of these procedures with much success just have to be patient and keep adjusting til it’s perfect. Hope this helps
Should you put the Trans Temp Probe on the Cooler Line leaving the Trans? Is that the best location to monitor the Trans Temp? Thanks
Yes that is correct the hottest fluid is coming out of the transmission going to the cooler so the best place for a temp guage is there !
Another great video. Ill be building my E4od as soon as I can get this friggin silverado outta my driveway. Im feelng pretty good about doing it now. Thanks again man.
Very Welcome ! hope to hear of your success story when you finish the rebuild ! Sounds like you got your hands full in the driveway !
Didn't realize you had a video up ! Nice guitar pickin' vocal solo on that one, Badass !
@@marshallsanders5672 thanks man. got the E4OD all torn down. Got a little groove action on the pump body where the pump gear rides. Can I sand that a little and replace the gears, or do I replace the whole pump body casting?
Rodney Happy New Year ! It’s always a judgement call on that one. If you can completely sand out the grooves with 600 sandpaper and the grooves aren’t deep at all then yes that and new pump gears are ok.
@@marshallsanders5672 I think I can do that. I'm gonna give er a go. You are the man! Thanks again for your help and the videos. Great stuff!
Hey Marshall, wonder if you could help steer me in the right direction. This 4r100 won't quit leaking. It's just a little drip while running coming from the bell housing. We've replaced the end seal, pulled out the pump and replaced those seals, put in a new torque converter, but there's still a drip. Transmission works fine. What am I missing?
Alex, Unfortunately that is a gotta be there situation to really tell where its leaking. Is this the reason you pulled it out ? sometimes I've seen where someone before Gouged either the case or the front pump body seal area and caused a leak. Did you change the bushing ? 600 grit or finer on the converter hub ? when you pull it out look VERY close for any Cracks in the case or Pump Body itself. Just have to search until you find the exact cause should be obvious when you do actually find it . Something also I’ve learned over the years is when a chronic problem like this arises search UNTIL you find the problem don’t just reseal it and hope it’s fixed.
@@marshallsanders5672 it's been rebuilt by somebody before so I guess now I'm chasing some one elses problem. Thanks for the advice. Cracks is kinda what I was thinking.
Thank You !
Marshall my 4r100 7.3 99 350 shifting 2nd to 3rd loud bang only have park
Just to clarify it seems it shifted and you heard a bang and NOW all you have is park and basically neutral in every other gear ? If this is the case something BROKE or STRIPPED inside the unit. If it has park the Transfer case seems fine so a tear down and inspection of the transmission is necessary.
Ok thanks for getting back to me brother I appreciate it
Hey Marshall, any way I can send you a picture of this front bushing on this E40D?
overdriven67@hotmail.com send any pics that might be relevant converter hub, pump housing etc.
Hi Marshall! I have a question regarding converter lock up. I have a 95 7.3 e4od and notice that there is a delay (rpms jump up 200, then back down) when the truck is in OD mode (OD button ON) in the 3rd to OD shift at around 40ish mph. If I keep the trans in drive (OD button OFF) and accelerate to 45ish then manually push the OD, I will not have that jump in rpms like I do if driving in OD “on” through all the gears. Seems the 3rd-4th shift happens too early before TC pressure locks up. I believe it’s the TC lockup delay in 3rd to OD 4th gear shift. The TC locks/unlocks as it should earlier in the 2nd-3rd shift. All gears shift firm and crisp. Do the front pump mods in the tugger kit improve the tc lockup in OD? Thanks for your help and been trying to troubleshoot this issue as I feel like it will ware the TC prematurely.
What is most likely happening here is the computer control of the torque converter “just” before it shifts into O/D. I noticed this in the transmission I have done all these videos about ! Under med to heavy throttle the computer will unlock the torque converter just before the O/D shift (200 rpm rise) shift into O/D then lock it back up once it’s in O/D This may be what your feeling with the TC O/D shift. It is all in the PROGRAM of the computer which they didn’t get quite “Right” on the early transmissions.
When your in O/D off it appears the torque converter locks up in 3rd and when you push the button and shifts into O/D Without the torque converter unlocking if that makes sense ?
It’s all in the “Programming” of the computer and again they didn’t get it quite “right” so to speak. Let me know if this is what’s happening or whether there is an actual problem inside the trans!
@@marshallsanders5672 that’s exactly right! The unlock-OD shift happens almost same time. When I’m heavy throttle the tc doesn’t unlock prior and stays locked into OD. All makes sense and it is intermittent while under light throttle. Plus mine is behind a 7.3 PSD. I will see if my tuner can command TC to stay locked in 3rd regardless of throttle. Thanks for your help buddy! All makes sense now
My pump had a black gasket when I took it apart.
Is the one in this video different?
No it is no different!
Outstanding. Learned so much on this video.
Do have question on delayed reverse and shift kits though. The one I have had a restrictor orifice in low reverse feed worm holes. That just really confused me, so I pulled it. The original rebuild (the expensive one) had that restrictor and I pulled it out. Maybe I screwed up but the 3 second delay is now less than a second. Do you know the purpose of the restrictor in the low reverse hole in the worm passages?
Thanks to you my transmission is in my Excursion and is operating perfectly.....so far.
I cannot say it enough THANK YOU!
Yes The theory behind the restrictor is to Slow down the apply of that clutch in hopes it will not cause a Harsh engagement ! Which is counterintuitive to getting that clutch on sooner than the Direct Clutch which generally IS the cause of a harsh Engagement in the first place. Never made sense to me but some Shift kit companies seem to think it is a better strategy. I never put that cup plug in any of my transmissions. And also can cause a delay because it will come on slower. You did the correct thing in pulling out the orifice. Good Call ! Sounds like success to me my friend ! Good Stuff !
@@marshallsanders5672 Ok that makes sense and assures a novice.
Its that cup plug that killed an expensive transmission. While stuck in snow it was put in reverse. Snow is slippery and driver did not know transmission had not engaged yet and applied accelerator. 3 seconds later that transmission kicked in and BANG! Low reverse pinion spun in low reverse hub. STUPID CUP PLUG!!!
@@rodshuffy4045 Gotcha DAMN ! Yep STUPID Cup Plug but that's all it takes. That makes all the sense now. Snow and Transmissions generally don't play nice together anyway ! Glad to hear your success Story
side clearance of the pump do you mean 0,0015 inch? Sorry i am used in using metric system. Mine has about 0,005 inch.?
Yes I mean 1and 1/2 thousandths .0015 5 thousandths or .005 is way to much and will create pump pressure and volume problems. .002-.0022 is about MAX to ensure there are no problems in that area.
You speak from inch right?
@@dieda-unterwegs6253 Yes Sir !That is Correct
Thank you. BTW I really enjoy your videos. They are great and full of useful things
Hi Marshall,
I have a question about concerns with my stator half of my pump. It is a 99 4r100 pump but the PR valve bore is so worn that I cannot pull a vacuum at all. The TCC valve passes with a vacuum of 18-20” Hg. Any suggestions? Is that usable with a sonnax orifice pr valve?
Damn, That's a tough one depending on how worn out it is ! sounds like it is pretty worn out. The sonnax valve will compensate for bore wear to a point. Only two other options are buy a used body and hope its not worn out or buy the oversized Pressure regulator valve but this requires the purchase of the reaming tool which is pretty expensive. Wish I had an easy answer but those are your choices.
Thanks Marshall, I’ll see if I can track down a good used pump, I’ve got the cast od drum too so as long as I order a non PWM body I should be able to swap the stator shaft if need be?
@@aaronmcnab9911 Aaron, It seems on a 99 you should have a PWM Body but just match what came out of it and you should be good to go !
Yes, however the pump is a 99 probably due to someone upgrading the pump to a higher capacity from stock. I’m assuming it would’ve had an F5 casting originally being a 97 E4OD?
Hi Marshall, I’ve been thinking about what you said about 99 being likely a PWM pump, and since my front half has 99 on it I’m beginning to think it’s a bitsa coupled to the original stator half as a way of increasing the output of the pump?
Also I have a question about my build. I have a 92 7.3idi f250 and was wondering if I should add a friction to the forward drum for a 5 friction arrangement omitting the cushion spring? I have already sanded down the old bevel plate for the direct drum and clearance checked it. How harsh is the engagement without the cushion plate and would I need the extra clutch in forward?