Desperate times call for desperate measures. It’s can be hard to keep a cool calm and collected mind when you find your self in a panicky situation. The worst thing you can do is panic and make a mistake so if you ever find yourself in a “situation” try to stay calm and work out what the safest method would be to get out of it. You aren’t dead and you will just hang there so don’t make the situation worse and die. Tie back up knots if you can so you don’t rappel lower, tie knots in the rope if you have too to stand on. Just never fully un clip and think you can climb out of it. And better yet never get yourself in this situation in the first place.
I would just grab a quickdraw or carabiner and flip my atc into guide mode onto my harness, put my prusik above with a carabiner, clip the rope in that carabiner and up i go again... I think it would be really helpful for some people if you show that concept aswell. I would never buy a atc without a guide ring, whats yout opinion on that? Greetings from switzerland :)
Was on a multipitch in Laos a few years ago, took a little longer than anticipated. We had to rappel down in the dark, this led to missing a set of anchors to begin the next rappel. All of a sudden I hit my knots. I remember my climbing partner double checking that I tied them. Always tie knots!!!!
Spoken like someone who has never owned a paracord bracelet! First problem is most of them are made of gutted paracord (USELESS for this situation!) Second problem is that generally smart people realized this might be a problem and as such paracord bracelets are a loose daisy chain technique with a hitch knot on the end... You just undo the knot and flick the rest of the bracelet outward, and the whole thing is magically undone...
@@DingleFlop well that is true, I have never owned one. I do however have a leash on my brush made out of daisychained light-weight cord that would mimic the shoe lace in this scenario. It lives on my chalk bag.
the crochet blanket i carry of paracord is a lifesaver imagine being able to unleash another 1000ft or more of line to the bottom with a simple undo one knot unravel climbing Cape and home free
Great video as always. Bonus luxury situation: if you happened to rappel with an ATC-guide in this situation you can leave the extension biner where it is and clip the "guide ring" of your ATC directly to your belay loop with another carabiner. This way you are in guide mode, and you have assisted/auto breaking. Moreover if you have one more spare carabiner, you can clip it next to your pedal prusik up above and redirect the ropes there -> 2 to 1 pulley for free ;)
Yeah, I was scrolling the comments to find out whether someone had already written this down or it is my job. Thank you for doing it for me. There are many ways how to ascend a rope using prusik and atc. Presonally I use combination of prusik and atc in case of urgency. When I have more time/ material I rather use two prusik knots. There is useful knot used by arborists (in Czech it is called "vánočka", i have no clue what is the English name) which can be knotted from sewed sling or rather thick sling /rope and used as ascender.
After your initial shoelace jumar, use the Tail of the rope to tie a blakes hitch above the ATC and an alpine butterfly big enough for your foot to loop into.
Sometimes you only find out the hard way that it's sketchy. That;s good argument for making sure the first one down has everything necessary to climb back up.
I'm sure there's a few ways of doing this. one way I can think of is tying into one end of the rope and using your tube like crappy brake for SRT, like what they do in tree work. it basically turns your tube into a very low efficiency 2-1 pulley, su you can just pull up on it, and you're lifting yourself slowly up the rope. tie a knot every so often as a progress capture. super sketchy when you're transitioning, but if it's that or freeze to death during the night, I know what I'm choosing. edit: actually if you set up your rappel properly in the first place, this isn't that sketchy, because you'd always be on a secured strand of your double rope.
Maybe if there was enough rope left or was able to gain some rope by hip thrusting and arm power. to then tie a loop in the rope (alpine butterfly, below ATC) then a Blake’s hitch And use that instead of shoe lace.
I always keep two prussik loops on my harness. You can wrap them around the part of the leg loop that goes up toward the belay loop, and they just stay on there all the time! They take up basically no space or weight, and I've got two in case of emergencies.
Cool but I have some input to that :-) You don't have to use shoe lace - just leave enough rope under the blocker knot to make foot loop to stand. Next you can clip ATC closer to you and free the green sling that was used to extend ATC. Then you could use the sling to make prusik :-) Another thing is that when you untie the prusik you can block ATC by Munter hitch blocked by Overhand knot. That way you don't have to keep your hand on ATC.
If you have a good eye you may have caught me at the end sitting in a clove hitch lol I ended up doing exactly what you described it was a bit slower but more bomber. The nylon PAS was very slippery.
Cool Video! I think its worth mentioning, once you get a little bit above the ends of the rope, its possible to tie off the ATC with the extra rope, to go hands free, and then move the hollow block , or make other adjustments to the climbing setup. You seemed to manage just fine, but its a good skill to demonstrate, as its hard to do stuff one-handed. (also as a belayer, to tie off a climber who's taking a long rest the rope) Maybe you already showed this on another video though. Great idea about the shoelaces or chalkbag cord !! I Just found your channel one video ago. When You mentioned that you gave away a Lov2 at the end of the other video, I was like, "What!!?! Awesome!" Ive been meaning to get my hands on a Taz. Really cool and unique piece of kit, I havent seen or tried one in person yet..
That’s a neat set up josh. The configuration is like the rope wrench. With the belay device adding a bend in the line for you. Good info. Can come in handy in tree work too.
Just another reason why I wouldn't take a tube without guide mode, would make all this much easier. And it's good to rember that a friction hitch will work with a dyneema or nylon sling, if you hapoen to have an alpine draw, or your anchor sling.
Something go add when moving your hollow block from below to above: you can tie a catastrophe knot below your atc so that if your brake hand does slip, you'll only fall as far as that knot will allow
Wrap the end of the rope around your leg a few times to create a tensionless hitch for a backup whilst moving the hollowblock. Obviously you'll need to move far enough up the rope to allow this.
I keep a dedicated sling, matching biners, and hollow block for a Garda hitch foot attachment and Klemheist waist attachment for self ascent at all times, plus several other options to get back up. I'm strictly solo and improvised. Great topic. I practice self rescue ascent all the time for confidence and for hopefully staying calmer. Agreed, try to avoid those situations.
Climbing in the 70’s I used a screw lock carabiner with a channel piton as an absail device, it worked really well and of course there were no hi tech belay or descending devices on the market then in NZ. Home made jam nuts cut from aluminium extrusion etc etc. many a time had to bounce on the rope to get enough stretch to reach the next ledge or absail point, undoing the end knot to absail off onto the ledge of course, making sure when my climbing partner did the same to catch one end of the rope before it stretched out of reach. I don’t think I plummeted to my death back then. But excellent channel, thanks
I climb on a double rope system. A hitch climber pulley. I did made on end my line once I just body thrust up the tree again. That when had a 120feet rope. I was about 75ft or 80ft up never again.
This is really good for dummies who don't carry 2 belay devices, multiple slings and an accender. If you are one of these dummies quit climbing right now. Always take both up and down gear with a back up down gear.
The very first time I belayed, the experienced climber I was with started out a climb from a ledge and traversed over to the main line, but the rope wasn’t long enough for him to be lowered to the ground, only enough length to get to the ledge. As he was topping out, other climbers started gathering around, including Peter Croft lol, and they were freaking out saying that he was gonna rap off the end of the rope. I had no idea what I was supposed to do...but he down climb traversed back to the ledge. I still don’t know why he made a novice like me deal with that.
Long prusic is a must have when climbing. So many cases where you might need to climb up the rope. Even when you toprope and e.g. the rope gets stuck on rocks while getting down.
Arbor climber here, and just my two bits but I use an atc and a prusik as my normal climbing system lol you made that sound like it was intense but that’s just a Tuesday for me
@@BetaClimbers I could, I replace my laces with stronger line! Nothing like losing a boot 100’ up in a conifer! Love the channel man, I learn a lot from you. I’m hoping to try some rock climbing, but first need to find a route near where I am lol
@@wtfwhereami right on yeah find your self a partner with gear and experience and go have some fun. You can find people on forums or maybe my discord also rock gyms
@@BetaClimbers yea, I’ve tried looking around, but I’d have to drive a couple hundred miles just to have a climbable wall. I have all the gear I’d need, aside from dynamic rope. Arbor climbing is all about static lines lol hell I have enough gear for three climbers
More videos like this would be awesome. Like maybe partner rescue scenarios with innovative solutions! To many climbing rescue methods rely on you having an excess of gear on you at the time...
I did this once as a redwood climber. I was pumped really quick. Ended up with my fingers getting pinched in my 8, and one hand making a pressik knot with tears of pain rolling down my cheeks.
I am sitting here trying to get my body to do what you are doing and my muscles are getting mad about it great exercise, maybe you should start a work out video😅.
Once I rappelled down into a small, allegedly 30m deep cave with a 70m rope (2x 35m should get me to the bottom, I thought). At the end of the rope I did not reach the ground though - not even close... Dangling in the middle of a round cave with no contact to any wall... Nobody else was able to rappel down, because I was still attached to the only rope. Communication with partners was not possible anymore because of heavy reverb. Then the batteries of my head lamp died and the cave went pitch black. What a very stupid idea this whole cave exploration thing was to beginn with, I thought. Always carrying 3 different length prusik slings with me though. Attached them in the dark to the rope (with some fear to drop them)... Wrapped both around the ropes and attached the short one to the harness and the long one to a foot. Now it was just a matter of alternately moving one of the prusiks upwards, weighting it, then moving the other one upwards. Causes some sweat to repeatedly stand up on one leg for 35m meters, but works like a charm and you cannot drop. Requires two slings and two carabiners though... What an adventure - in retrospect.
This would be infinitely simpler if your ATC had guide mode. Clip the guide hole to your belay loop = instant progress capture. Nice idea to use shoelaces as emergency prussik!
Bro that subscribe and bell falling on your head got me to subscribe, but only after having seen several of your videos already, several of which being climbing fails where you responsibly mention helmets. ⛑
Great video as always, I’m just curious what would you do if you were being lowered from a route you just lead climbed and the belayer ran out of rope so you are stuck in the air. I know if the route is without a overhang you could probably just climb up and unclip some clips until you have enough rope but what if you were in mid air what would be the best way to get down?
One option is a pull and hop up method you can work with your belayer you may see some sport climbers do this to get back to where they last where. They reach up high do a pull up throw themselves up and the belayer will fall down this will give them upward progress and hopefully you aren’t too far down.
This isn’t really redundant but if you’re able to touch the wall you can clip in direct to a bolt or a few pieces and then weight that, untie, pull the rope and then lower off of that piece
Yo what cameras and mics are you using? Been looking at a few lav mics but I like how your stuff sounds. Always making outdoor content and dealing with wind.
Check out my Amazon store I try to keep all my camera gear there. It’s a 1dx mark 2 I forgot the mic name. I’m looking to upgrade to an canon R5 but that is just so I can eventually get a gimble and more in camera stability. The 1dx is a tank so super strong but to bulky the r5 should lightin my haul bag a bit. Camera gear isn’t cheap, I think I might be over killing it though you can prob get away with a lot less then what I’m using.
If you are in a multi-pitch rappel scenario, you should absolutely have some other slings or cord on your harness to use as a real, weight-bearing friction hitch (or 2), or better yet a tibloc, microtrax, grigri, or any other actual climbing gear. Heck, make a garda hitch out of 2 nonlockers (or lockers). This scenario using your shoelaces is honestly absurd, especially if you are wearing climbing shoes and the laces have been jammed in cracks so they are likely worn.
Once you get your tail back on your rope, and your shoelaces were to break, you can use the tail of the rope as a step. Just wrap it around your foot 3 or 4 times and half hitch it, then step up
Cool video, but I would have understood a lot more if you explained what a Prusec and a Hollow Block was. No idea what ATC stands for but I understood that it is a manual rope brake.
On my first rappel I've actually managed to go past the anchor point where I was supposed to stop and got to the end of the rope. Luckily I was right next to a bolt and did something very stupid. I've tied in to that bolt and rappeled down another 6 meters using my backup rope to a small ledge where I could "safely" climb down the wall
Hey Josh, Could you do a intro to Multi-pitching? Something similar to your top rope solo? That would be great! Setting up a belay, some rope management maybe, risks and so on?
Hey there I just pretty much binged all of your climbing fails vids, pretty good stuff. You mentioned a guy dying on Eiger, could you make a series on classic or famous climbing accidents and how they happened? Would be rad. Greetz - Sam
You could just climb with two prusiks and an extra double length. Save yourself from having to use shoelaces. Especially cause you'll likely need shoes attached to your feet to continue bailing, if they fall off cause they're unlaced, you've just created another problem for yourself ie. now you're barefoot. Just use the extra prusik and double length to stand up on, it's far more ergonomic and far more secure.
Right on it’s better to be well equipped than have to use your show laces but the point is when push comes to shove, use what every you can. Rip your shirt and make prussic if you have too. The problem is when people get stuck like that they try to unclip and solo down. And then end up died when they could have used shoe laces ect.
prusik knot and or ascenders.. best to have your knot at the end of your rope up a bit so you have some rope out at the end to I do like what you did here as a last resort...
Lol I did this trying to rappel and get my gear on an overhung cliff. Pulled the last one out and away I swung. Too bad I hadn’t watched this before I was fiddling with my autoblock below the rappel device!
dang shouldn't have invested in shoelaceless shoes like velcro and stretchy rubber frankensteins that wear out leaving your shoes to just fall off or whatever they're call pumps? or zippered shoes?
At the 5 min mark, where you were on brake on the ATC and fiddling with your hollow block at the same time, you should have locked off your ATC with an overhand slip followed by another overhand and be able to go handsfree to mess with your other systems. Be a little more redundant in your systems. And be wary on how you teach, as without these redundancies, you can cost lives. For this, I'd suggest in looking up "how to escape from a belay" vids. Maybe that'll help?... You even have any SPI or AMGA cert? And please, make a follow up video of what you've learned after this, how you better yourself and added redundancies in your system. "Desperate times calls for desperate measures" also means you gotta slow down and think through and back your system up. Drop a crucial piece of gear and you'll be left wondering what you could have done better.
Most climbers might have a sling or alpine draw to substitute a fragile shoe lace. My shoelace would never survive a couple feet. If you take your block off first, you aren’t traveling past the knot and might be able to block off the atc first. Moral of the story, tie a knot at the end of your ropes and use an auto block.
I don’t think this would have helped Toni Kurtz, he lost a glove and couldn’t even tie a knot, his hands were so cold and he probably had rubbish shoe laces.
So the sad part is most people don't bother putting knots in the end of their ropes so would be in a lot more trouble than you were from the start. Ps. I know someone who had to tell a girl rapping on the line next to his to stick her finger in belay device rather than slide off the end of the rope. She wouldn't do it and died, start with those knots. - so ends this downer of public service announcement
now this would be even trickier if you had to regain a large roof as youd have to push out in order to slide your prussic and devices over the lip. now that'd be a good video ;). reaching the end of your rope is more common occurence while caving and is why cavers always have their prussic above their belay device(old school methods). I always kept my prussic above device on all rappels as i learned from caving until i realized no climbers do this. Although its not a bad idea, a bit less efficient for rappeling but way more efficient if you gotta ascend back up rope. Extend your prussic rather than your atc, food for thought.
If your prussic is above your belay device make sure it is strong enough to take your whole weight, sterling hollowblock, for example is not supposed to be primary weight bearing. When it is below the ATC it is only taking a small force, above the atc it is subjected to your whole weight and momentum. Can also cause knots to lock up, right?
ive never used a hollowblock. never realized they not rated for primary weight bearing. all the more reason to not use one. or at least always have some cordellette on your harness to use as for prussic. everyone wants to go so lightweight to the point they have to use shoelaces to self rescue. although a good trick to know i suppose. if you even have shoe laces.
It made me nervous watching you open the ATC biner to clip your belay loop while hoping your shoelace holds your weight.. I guess you're still on the hollowblock if you utterly botch it.
Desperate times call for desperate measures. It’s can be hard to keep a cool calm and collected mind when you find your self in a panicky situation. The worst thing you can do is panic and make a mistake so if you ever find yourself in a “situation” try to stay calm and work out what the safest method would be to get out of it. You aren’t dead and you will just hang there so don’t make the situation worse and die. Tie back up knots if you can so you don’t rappel lower, tie knots in the rope if you have too to stand on. Just never fully un clip and think you can climb out of it. And better yet never get yourself in this situation in the first place.
I would just grab a quickdraw or carabiner and flip my atc into guide mode onto my harness, put my prusik above with a carabiner, clip the rope in that carabiner and up i go again... I think it would be really helpful for some people if you show that concept aswell. I would never buy a atc without a guide ring, whats yout opinion on that? Greetings from switzerland :)
@@staibock5456 yeah I think it’s always better to have gear that will give you more options.
Please pin your comment!
i guess I'm pretty off topic but do anyone know of a good place to watch newly released tv shows online ?
Do you have a video oh how you set up this auto blocking system? I can’t seem to find it in the channel.
- Help me, I'm stuck! ... What are you doing, step-climber?
That phone drop was priceless !!!
Agreed. if this doesn't work out, you could try physical comedy, Josh.
Was on a multipitch in Laos a few years ago, took a little longer than anticipated. We had to rappel down in the dark, this led to missing a set of anchors to begin the next rappel. All of a sudden I hit my knots. I remember my climbing partner double checking that I tied them. Always tie knots!!!!
If only you had a paracord bracelet, you could spend half an hour unbraiding before saving yourself.
Lmao 😂
Spoken like someone who has never owned a paracord bracelet!
First problem is most of them are made of gutted paracord (USELESS for this situation!)
Second problem is that generally smart people realized this might be a problem and as such paracord bracelets are a loose daisy chain technique with a hitch knot on the end... You just undo the knot and flick the rest of the bracelet outward, and the whole thing is magically undone...
@@DingleFlop well that is true, I have never owned one. I do however have a leash on my brush made out of daisychained light-weight cord that would mimic the shoe lace in this scenario. It lives on my chalk bag.
even better, while unbraiding it you actually calm down as well
the crochet blanket i carry of paracord is a lifesaver imagine being able to unleash another 1000ft or more of line to the bottom with a simple undo one knot unravel climbing Cape and home free
3:14 That face when I'm hanging on the end of my rope and realize that wearing velcro closure shoes was a fatal mistake...
Great video as always.
Bonus luxury situation: if you happened to rappel with an ATC-guide in this situation you can leave the extension biner where it is and clip the "guide ring" of your ATC directly to your belay loop with another carabiner. This way you are in guide mode, and you have assisted/auto breaking.
Moreover if you have one more spare carabiner, you can clip it next to your pedal prusik up above and redirect the ropes there -> 2 to 1 pulley for free ;)
Good reason to buy better gear so you have more options! ☝🏻 Great comment.
@@BetaClimbers Hoooolly! I need to see this too! Please?
Greetings from Ecuador (:
It would be awesome and much appreciated if you could replicate this scenario too!
Wow! Such a cool idea! Ive never thought to guidemode myself!!
Makes sense though!
I gotta try this out and see how it behaves.
Yeah, I was scrolling the comments to find out whether someone had already written this down or it is my job. Thank you for doing it for me.
There are many ways how to ascend a rope using prusik and atc.
Presonally I use combination of prusik and atc in case of urgency. When I have more time/ material I rather use two prusik knots. There is useful knot used by arborists (in Czech it is called "vánočka", i have no clue what is the English name) which can be knotted from sewed sling or rather thick sling /rope and used as ascender.
After your initial shoelace jumar, use the Tail of the rope to tie a blakes hitch above the ATC and an alpine butterfly big enough for your foot to loop into.
Keep a set of jumars or prussics on the back of your harness when doing a sketchy rappel just in case...
Sometimes you only find out the hard way that it's sketchy. That;s good argument for making sure the first one down has everything necessary to climb back up.
yep, i always do and a couple off caribenas they never leave my harniss!!
the ending is why i gave a thumbs up
If you are lucky you rappelled with an atc guide which can be used to climb the rope by connecting it's hangar eye directly to your belay loop.
You've got to show how you did it with no shoe laces and no hollow block
Yea exactly.
I'm sure there's a few ways of doing this. one way I can think of is tying into one end of the rope and using your tube like crappy brake for SRT, like what they do in tree work. it basically turns your tube into a very low efficiency 2-1 pulley, su you can just pull up on it, and you're lifting yourself slowly up the rope. tie a knot every so often as a progress capture.
super sketchy when you're transitioning, but if it's that or freeze to death during the night, I know what I'm choosing.
edit: actually if you set up your rappel properly in the first place, this isn't that sketchy, because you'd always be on a secured strand of your double rope.
Maybe possible to use the rope itself as a prussic?
Maybe if there was enough rope left or was able to gain some rope by hip thrusting and arm power. to then tie a loop in the rope (alpine butterfly, below ATC) then a Blake’s hitch And use that instead of shoe lace.
@@didgitalpunk I don't quite get what you're saying, could you elaborate? I am well versed with tree climbing techniques, that is not the issue.
I always keep two prussik loops on my harness. You can wrap them around the part of the leg loop that goes up toward the belay loop, and they just stay on there all the time! They take up basically no space or weight, and I've got two in case of emergencies.
found the channel a couple days ago. been watching a bunch and bam you upload while im watching. what a treat.
I’ll never look at shoe laces the same way again lol
Cool but I have some input to that :-) You don't have to use shoe lace - just leave enough rope under the blocker knot to make foot loop to stand. Next you can clip ATC closer to you and free the green sling that was used to extend ATC. Then you could use the sling to make prusik :-) Another thing is that when you untie the prusik you can block ATC by Munter hitch blocked by Overhand knot. That way you don't have to keep your hand on ATC.
If you have a good eye you may have caught me at the end sitting in a clove hitch lol I ended up doing exactly what you described it was a bit slower but more bomber. The nylon PAS was very slippery.
“At least you aren’t dead... your just dumb!”
Dude I died 😂
Cool Video!
I think its worth mentioning, once you get a little bit above the ends of the rope, its possible to tie off the ATC with the extra rope, to go hands free, and then move the hollow block , or make other adjustments to the climbing setup.
You seemed to manage just fine, but its a good skill to demonstrate, as its hard to do stuff one-handed.
(also as a belayer, to tie off a climber who's taking a long rest the rope)
Maybe you already showed this on another video though.
Great idea about the shoelaces or chalkbag cord !!
I Just found your channel one video ago. When You mentioned that you gave away a Lov2 at the end of the other video, I was like, "What!!?! Awesome!" Ive been meaning to get my hands on a Taz. Really cool and unique piece of kit, I havent seen or tried one in person yet..
That’s a neat set up josh. The configuration is like the rope wrench. With the belay device adding a bend in the line for you.
Good info. Can come in handy in tree work too.
Just another reason why I wouldn't take a tube without guide mode, would make all this much easier. And it's good to rember that a friction hitch will work with a dyneema or nylon sling, if you hapoen to have an alpine draw, or your anchor sling.
Good video. I specially liked the chalk bag suggestion. personally I much prefer this kind of videos to the fail compilation ones, keep it up
Something go add when moving your hollow block from below to above: you can tie a catastrophe knot below your atc so that if your brake hand does slip, you'll only fall as far as that knot will allow
Good tip about the chalk bag! I'm definitely swapping the chord for a 5mm chord that can save your ass if you really have no gear!
Wrap the end of the rope around your leg a few times to create a tensionless hitch for a backup whilst moving the hollowblock. Obviously you'll need to move far enough up the rope to allow this.
I keep a dedicated sling, matching biners, and hollow block for a Garda hitch foot attachment and Klemheist waist attachment for self ascent at all times, plus several other options to get back up. I'm strictly solo and improvised. Great topic. I practice self rescue ascent all the time for confidence and for hopefully staying calmer. Agreed, try to avoid those situations.
Climbing in the 70’s I used a screw lock carabiner with a channel piton as an absail device, it worked really well and of course there were no hi tech belay or descending devices on the market then in NZ. Home made jam nuts cut from aluminium extrusion etc etc. many a time had to bounce on the rope to get enough stretch to reach the next ledge or absail point, undoing the end knot to absail off onto the ledge of course, making sure when my climbing partner did the same to catch one end of the rope before it stretched out of reach. I don’t think I plummeted to my death back then. But excellent channel, thanks
Very funny, good idea with the shoelaces as prussik
Thanks for the info mate. The more tools you have under your belt the better.
You're a funny dude and provide good information as well. I hope your channel keeps growing!
I climb on a double rope system. A hitch climber pulley. I did made on end my line once I just body thrust up the tree again. That when had a 120feet rope. I was about 75ft or 80ft up never again.
Who knows. This could save a life
There’s going light, and then there’s too light. Always gotta have some redundant webbing, cord, biners to scab together something!
This is really good for dummies who don't carry 2 belay devices, multiple slings and an accender. If you are one of these dummies quit climbing right now. Always take both up and down gear with a back up down gear.
(HMS) biner is backup down gear as well, and very multifunctional. Definitely agree though
The very first time I belayed, the experienced climber I was with started out a climb from a ledge and traversed over to the main line, but the rope wasn’t long enough for him to be lowered to the ground, only enough length to get to the ledge. As he was topping out, other climbers started gathering around, including Peter Croft lol, and they were freaking out saying that he was gonna rap off the end of the rope. I had no idea what I was supposed to do...but he down climb traversed back to the ledge. I still don’t know why he made a novice like me deal with that.
Nice sakura in the yard 🤙🏻🤙🏻
🤙🏻
Long prusic is a must have when climbing. So many cases where you might need to climb up the rope. Even when you toprope and e.g. the rope gets stuck on rocks while getting down.
Also a good reason to replace your chalk bag waist belt with 7mm cordelette; that way you've always an extra prusik handy!
I love your humor man! Another great vid! Keep 'em coming, I love this channel haha
All of my boots have paracord laces and whenever I climb or rappell I always keep a good supply of spare carabiners and various bits or rope.
Arbor climber here, and just my two bits but I use an atc and a prusik as my normal climbing system lol you made that sound like it was intense but that’s just a Tuesday for me
😂 I’m sure you don’t use your shoe laces right!? 🤣
@@BetaClimbers I could, I replace my laces with stronger line! Nothing like losing a boot 100’ up in a conifer!
Love the channel man, I learn a lot from you. I’m hoping to try some rock climbing, but first need to find a route near where I am lol
@@wtfwhereami right on yeah find your self a partner with gear and experience and go have some fun. You can find people on forums or maybe my discord also rock gyms
@@BetaClimbers yea, I’ve tried looking around, but I’d have to drive a couple hundred miles just to have a climbable wall. I have all the gear I’d need, aside from dynamic rope. Arbor climbing is all about static lines lol hell I have enough gear for three climbers
More videos like this would be awesome. Like maybe partner rescue scenarios with innovative solutions! To many climbing rescue methods rely on you having an excess of gear on you at the time...
I did this once as a redwood climber. I was pumped really quick. Ended up with my fingers getting pinched in my 8, and one hand making a pressik knot with tears of pain rolling down my cheeks.
that ending had me cracking up, nice vid!
I am sitting here trying to get my body to do what you are doing and my muscles are getting mad about it great exercise, maybe you should start a work out video😅.
Once I rappelled down into a small, allegedly 30m deep cave with a 70m rope (2x 35m should get me to the bottom, I thought). At the end of the rope I did not reach the ground though - not even close... Dangling in the middle of a round cave with no contact to any wall...
Nobody else was able to rappel down, because I was still attached to the only rope. Communication with partners was not possible anymore because of heavy reverb. Then the batteries of my head lamp died and the cave went pitch black. What a very stupid idea this whole cave exploration thing was to beginn with, I thought.
Always carrying 3 different length prusik slings with me though. Attached them in the dark to the rope (with some fear to drop them)... Wrapped both around the ropes and attached the short one to the harness and the long one to a foot. Now it was just a matter of alternately moving one of the prusiks upwards, weighting it, then moving the other one upwards. Causes some sweat to repeatedly stand up on one leg for 35m meters, but works like a charm and you cannot drop. Requires two slings and two carabiners though...
What an adventure - in retrospect.
Double length sling and kleimheist is what I was thinking, I always have that on my harness.
This would be infinitely simpler if your ATC had guide mode. Clip the guide hole to your belay loop = instant progress capture. Nice idea to use shoelaces as emergency prussik!
Loved the editing, and the advice to first ask for help in multiple ways.
Bro that subscribe and bell falling on your head got me to subscribe, but only after having seen several of your videos already, several of which being climbing fails where you responsibly mention helmets. ⛑
Damnnn you just gave me a good reason to do the leg day LMAO
The what do to depends entirely on whether or not you actually remembered to tie knots on the rope ends! One case is easier than the other.
Great video as always,
I’m just curious what would you do if you were being lowered from a route you just lead climbed and the belayer ran out of rope so you are stuck in the air. I know if the route is without a overhang you could probably just climb up and unclip some clips until you have enough rope but what if you were in mid air what would be the best way to get down?
One option is a pull and hop up method you can work with your belayer you may see some sport climbers do this to get back to where they last where. They reach up high do a pull up throw themselves up and the belayer will fall down this will give them upward progress and hopefully you aren’t too far down.
This isn’t really redundant but if you’re able to touch the wall you can clip in direct to a bolt or a few pieces and then weight that, untie, pull the rope and then lower off of that piece
Yo what cameras and mics are you using? Been looking at a few lav mics but I like how your stuff sounds. Always making outdoor content and dealing with wind.
Check out my Amazon store I try to keep all my camera gear there. It’s a 1dx mark 2 I forgot the mic name. I’m looking to upgrade to an canon R5 but that is just so I can eventually get a gimble and more in camera stability. The 1dx is a tank so super strong but to bulky the r5 should lightin my haul bag a bit.
Camera gear isn’t cheap, I think I might be over killing it though you can prob get away with a lot less then what I’m using.
If you are in a multi-pitch rappel scenario, you should absolutely have some other slings or cord on your harness to use as a real, weight-bearing friction hitch (or 2), or better yet a tibloc, microtrax, grigri, or any other actual climbing gear. Heck, make a garda hitch out of 2 nonlockers (or lockers). This scenario using your shoelaces is honestly absurd, especially if you are wearing climbing shoes and the laces have been jammed in cracks so they are likely worn.
Once you get your tail back on your rope, and your shoelaces were to break, you can use the tail of the rope as a step. Just wrap it around your foot 3 or 4 times and half hitch it, then step up
Cute and a real answer. Good job.
Cool video, but I would have understood a lot more if you explained what a Prusec and a Hollow Block was. No idea what ATC stands for but I understood that it is a manual rope brake.
Ever have that feeling you should replace all shoelaces by paracord? It's all fun and games till it gets stuck in elevator door or escalators... :-D
On my first rappel I've actually managed to go past the anchor point where I was supposed to stop and got to the end of the rope. Luckily I was right next to a bolt and did something very stupid. I've tied in to that bolt and rappeled down another 6 meters using my backup rope to a small ledge where I could "safely" climb down the wall
Close call. 😅
Hey Josh, Could you do a intro to Multi-pitching? Something similar to your top rope solo? That would be great! Setting up a belay, some rope management maybe, risks and so on?
🤙🏻
Usually you just repel to the and of your line and Fall to the ground ( no knots )
Hey there I just pretty much binged all of your climbing fails vids, pretty good stuff. You mentioned a guy dying on Eiger, could you make a series on classic or famous climbing accidents and how they happened? Would be rad. Greetz - Sam
You could just climb with two prusiks and an extra double length. Save yourself from having to use shoelaces. Especially cause you'll likely need shoes attached to your feet to continue bailing, if they fall off cause they're unlaced, you've just created another problem for yourself ie. now you're barefoot. Just use the extra prusik and double length to stand up on, it's far more ergonomic and far more secure.
Right on it’s better to be well equipped than have to use your show laces but the point is when push comes to shove, use what every you can. Rip your shirt and make prussic if you have too. The problem is when people get stuck like that they try to unclip and solo down. And then end up died when they could have used shoe laces ect.
prusik knot and or ascenders.. best to have your knot at the end of your rope up a bit so you have some rope out at the end to I do like what you did here as a last resort...
Could you replace the chalk bag strap with a Dyneema sling to use instead of the shoelace?
Am I the only one who noticed the goat?
Lol I did this trying to rappel and get my gear on an overhung cliff. Pulled the last one out and away I swung. Too bad I hadn’t watched this before I was fiddling with my autoblock below the rappel device!
Another thing you could have mentioned is to tie knots in the rope below you so you don’t potentially slide all the way back down
So, do your neighbors just know at this point not to do anything if you're screaming for help?
Here in the city no one can hear you scream.
I saw a dude run out of rope, swing until he could grab the wall, set some anchors, and then repel from there. Seemed fast but less safe than this.
For the hollow block portion above the ATC, would a Kleimheist be a good option? One directional, and the ATC can release as you move up.
Yeah thats is what I intuitively ended up using I’d deff would want to follow up with back up knots after every 3 feet to so under the at as well. 🤙🏻
@@BetaClimbers ah perfect thank you!
Just to make sure: you don't lock the belay device when you remove the prusik below is because you don't have enough length to do that right?
dang shouldn't have invested in shoelaceless shoes like velcro and stretchy rubber frankensteins that wear out leaving your shoes to just fall off or whatever they're call pumps? or zippered shoes?
At the 5 min mark, where you were on brake on the ATC and fiddling with your hollow block at the same time, you should have locked off your ATC with an overhand slip followed by another overhand and be able to go handsfree to mess with your other systems. Be a little more redundant in your systems. And be wary on how you teach, as without these redundancies, you can cost lives. For this, I'd suggest in looking up "how to escape from a belay" vids. Maybe that'll help?... You even have any SPI or AMGA cert?
And please, make a follow up video of what you've learned after this, how you better yourself and added redundancies in your system.
"Desperate times calls for desperate measures" also means you gotta slow down and think through and back your system up. Drop a crucial piece of gear and you'll be left wondering what you could have done better.
Great comment 🤙🏻
czcams.com/video/csNTB37Y6Qg/video.html
Thank you, man! 👍
🤙🏻
Most climbers might have a sling or alpine draw to substitute a fragile shoe lace. My shoelace would never survive a couple feet. If you take your block off first, you aren’t traveling past the knot and might be able to block off the atc first. Moral of the story, tie a knot at the end of your ropes and use an auto block.
I don’t think this would have helped Toni Kurtz, he lost a glove and couldn’t even tie a knot, his hands were so cold and he probably had rubbish shoe laces.
Desperate.
Gotta say, that's the most inexpected and hilarious way to shill for subs I have ever seen. Wasn't subbed, but this made me do it.
Why not just carry a couple of 4mm prusik loops on your harness at all times - they weigh very little and a life saver if you need them?
So the sad part is most people don't bother putting knots in the end of their ropes so would be in a lot more trouble than you were from the start.
Ps. I know someone who had to tell a girl rapping on the line next to his to stick her finger in belay device rather than slide off the end of the rope. She wouldn't do it and died, start with those knots.
- so ends this downer of public service announcement
Josh love the channel you are funny as f##k
Can you use your slings to make the prusick or climb heist?
now this would be even trickier if you had to regain a large roof as youd have to push out in order to slide your prussic and devices over the lip. now that'd be a good video ;). reaching the end of your rope is more common occurence while caving and is why cavers always have their prussic above their belay device(old school methods). I always kept my prussic above device on all rappels as i learned from caving until i realized no climbers do this. Although its not a bad idea, a bit less efficient for rappeling but way more efficient if you gotta ascend back up rope. Extend your prussic rather than your atc, food for thought.
Interesting 🧐
If your prussic is above your belay device make sure it is strong enough to take your whole weight, sterling hollowblock, for example is not supposed to be primary weight bearing. When it is below the ATC it is only taking a small force, above the atc it is subjected to your whole weight and momentum. Can also cause knots to lock up, right?
How do you use a rack *and* control a prusik above it when you have a brake hand below the rack?
"old school" dirtbag methods. can't speak for others but i never used a rack typically just a munter hitch.
ive never used a hollowblock. never realized they not rated for primary weight bearing. all the more reason to not use one. or at least always have some cordellette on your harness to use as for prussic. everyone wants to go so lightweight to the point they have to use shoelaces to self rescue. although a good trick to know i suppose. if you even have shoe laces.
Then what happens when you get all the way up?
I always keep enough webbing and cord for this. Takes up less space than a chalk bag.
That’s true
This was so funny!
Why put the belay device so high to begin with
Why not tie a knot under your ATC before removing the hollow block
It made me nervous watching you open the ATC biner to clip your belay loop while hoping your shoelace holds your weight.. I guess you're still on the hollowblock if you utterly botch it.
It’s a risky move that’s for sure.
Why not just use an ATS for rappelling? you can lock off much easier
“You’re not dead, just dumb.” 🤣🤣🤣
I would also say, you are very ill prepared if you don't carry a few spare prusiks with you. Even a few dyneema slings don't weigh anything!
but my climbing shoe are velcro
Cavers rappel with their ascending gear ready to go.
The Macgyver of climbing.
Rock climbing is so weird to me, why not just use a system you can descend and ascend on easily like tree climbing?
Actually you should allready have ascending on ready to use.
Once you have enough spare rope you can start making foot loops by tying double overhands on it. Ratchet up. Make foot loops.
Couldn’t you just tie the two rope ends together and use that to step in
You need to green screen some mountain cliff and blizzard.