A problem I had with the small router plane is with the brass thumbscrew deforming at the tip as you lock it down tightly. What happened is that the tip had a notch form against the surface of the tip which prevented the last bit of turning to fully secure the blade from shifting under cutting pressure by grabing the blade shaft edge. To solve it I put a copper plated steel BB up against the blade's shaft in the threaded hole for the thumbscrew, then inserted the thumbscrew and, as I tightened it, the BB started to turn that edge created slot in the tip into a circular depression and lock the blade as tightly as needed. It will also slightly swage the tip end of the thumbscrew so your adjustment won't back off. Yes, it's easy to lose the BB if you take the blade out for honing, etc. I happen to have a 3/4" long by 3/16"x 3/16" ceramic magnet that I just slip into the square hole for the blade's shaft as I remove the blade which blocks the BB from slipping out of the now empty shaft hole and is also easy to just store on either the blade's shaft or the plane's body when otherwise not in active use.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. FYI - Here is a quick tip to help stabilize the router plane when cutting rabbets or tenons: I often put a scrap piece of wood the same thickness as the piece I am working on beside it on the other side of the rabbet or tenon to support the other side of the plane. It essentially simulates cutting a dado, which is what the plane was designed to do.
thanks for all this information. I added the video to my router plane playlist, where i collect videos about the router plane, especially many home made ones. making one yourself may be an option for people with limited budgets.
i picked up both of these based on one of your tool recomendation videos. i couldnt be happier with them both and i used them this week when working on my saw holsters.
Finish hand-routing a dado applies particularly to those of us using a jobsite table saw with a cast aluminum top. The aluminum is almost never perfectly flat, and that will invariably cause a difference in depth from one part of a sawn dado or rabbet to another. The router plane setup you demonstrate, Rob, offers a practical and accurate solution to the problem.
Thanks for this video! I learned something from it I want to try. It never occurred to me to use it to make a rabbet with mine. Got to see if I can! Thanks again!
Great video for Friday being that I received my Lie-Nielsen large router plane in the mail today~! The wanted an open-throat plane, but they've been out of stock for some time now, so I got the closed-throat. I figured it wouldn't really matter since I'll end up putting a base plate on it like you have. I've had my small one for about a year now and love it. I get so much out of seeing the different ways that you use it in ways I wouldn't have thought of. Thanks for the super instruction~!
This is an indispensable tool for the hand-tool woodworker. I bought the large router plane and the available extra blade sizes for versatility. As you say, it doesn’t seem to get a lot of use, but I find myself reaching for it to finish almost all my dadoes and rabbets to perfection. I hadn’t thought of using it to finish tenons, though... great tip!
Absolutely agree, I've owned one for about three years (used to think it's one of "Dad's" tools) but after using one you find it's so much more refined than an electric router for fine work. By the way, if you have at least two tenons to trim put them end to end and the plane has an even reference surface + you get to do both at the same time (sorry Rob - a Paul Sellers tip).
Yes it’s perfect for dadoes and rabbets, and it’s great for tenons. Cut your tenon very slightly fat and then trim both sides absolutely parallel and sneak up on the finish.
It’s a good idea if possible to support the base on both sides. So place two tenons end to end to rout, or rout both the tenons and then cross cut them apart, or have a piece of the same wood to support one side.
Very timely training. I just bought a router plane this week and was getting ready to sharpen the blade. Well, kind of wondering how to sharpen it is probably more correct. Thank you again!
Thanks again for another great video! I find the router plane to be the best option for flattening the bottom of mortises for bow ties. They are often difficult to work with a chisel but the router plane cleans it up nicely.
I've found that I go back and re watch your videos and " find " new stuff, the point Im making is the set screw pushing at two diffrent surfaces makes a big change (.010 ") that my cheep roughter plane makes. Thank you.
Hi Rob, recently discovered your channel and I'm very glad with your videos. I'm trying to figure out make the same job with a shoulder plane. It's not easier to flatten a dadoe or a tenon with a shoulder plane?
Excellent presentation. And a thorough explanation of the Lie Nielsen blade adjustment refinement. Thanks for the video! (It looks like Lee Valley has a similar blade treatment. Any comment on comparison?)
Hello Rob - Thanks for all the valuable information. I have been looking at a router plane. @robcosman Do you have any preference between closed throat and open throat router planes? Appreciate your input.
I appreciate your detailed way of explaining what you are doing, from the first time I watched your video I completely understood what you was doing 🤠 I have a question about your experience with router planers, what happened that caused you to desire a larger reference surface?
I wonder if using a feeler gauge instead of a shaving would work. Maybe you would need two to "level" the router with the reference surface. You could measure the difference between the two mating surfaces and use close to that to remove. I must try it next time. You give me so many tips and things to think about.
Great video with lots of nice tips. I am guessing that you prefer the open throat planes since you have that style (unless you have both models). Any reason/advantages to choose a closed throat plane over an open throat plane?
I love both of my router planes. one question though. Why not use a piece of 3/8 or 1/2" plexiglass for the second base so you can watch the cutter work?'
Hello Mr. Cosman. When router planing tenon faces like you demonstrated, is it recommended to try to take equal amounts of material off of opposing sides, similarly to how one would alternate sides through a thickness planer?
Hi Rob and gang, is it possible to use the ruler trick on the back of the blade? Do you prefer an open mouth router plane to a closed one? And is it benifisial when sizing a tenon as shown to have two tenons facing each other and be able to bring two tenons down to size at the same time but more importantly the plane would sit on both tenon legs or stretchers and so won't dip in use so your left hand is free to move the plane instead of ballanceing it. Great review as always
No you don’t wanna do that the router blade is similar to a chisel in that when it’s cutting the wood the back is a reference surface. Unlike a plane when the plane is Kylie in the wood the bottom of the plane as a reference surface so do not use the ruler trick on router blades
For the tenon adjustment, I assume you'd want to use the plane on both sides of the tenon, each time you make a depth adjustment, so you keep the tenon centered?
Rob, How do you insure that when you are sharpening the blade the 'cutting edge' remains parallel to the sole of the plane? Asked differently (if the question is not clear, and assuming that the shaft of the blade will be exactly 90 degrees to the base of the plane), how do you guarantee that the cutting edge will be perfectly perpendicular to the shaft? Even the slightest angle of deflection will result in gouges in the wood. Sorry if I am asking this poorly, and thanks for a great video.
Your thinking is a bit wrong. This is not like a plane blade, more like a chisel. The bottom of the blade (the back) MUST be fla. YOU CANNOT use the ruler trick on this. The plane holds the blade parallel to the bottom. For practical purposes it does not matter the anglr you sharpen the bevel on top as long as it meets the flat bottom at the cutting edge in a straight line
Rob, I'm an old guy now and ever since acquiring my first router plane I've bought up old ones whenever I find a good one. Unpacking now from a move six years ago, I've so far found eleven cast iron or wood bodied examples. Though the largest has a sole about like the shoe you've added to your larger router, I have to admit that my needs would be better served by the excellent Veritas routers you've demonstrated here. They are by Veritas, right?
@@Keth.S Thank you. The few new planes I ever bought were Lie-Nielsen and fine tools. Proof of their excellence is that when I use them I cannot remember their price.
Rob can't comment on Veritas for legal reasons. But yes, that's the way I went. The key factor is that a certain english woodworker's recommendations stimulated demand in the collector's department. Net result is that a complete vintage Stanley 71 is often more expensive than a brand new Veritas. I prefer vintage but buy it only when (a) vintage quality is at least as good as modern new (most pre-WWII planes) and (b) it's significantly cheaper than new (to compensate for the time and effort bringing it back to working condition).
I bought a Veritas Router plane today and am having a bit of a challenge with it. When cleaning up a rabbet that runs with the grain, how do you stop the router blade digging in?
because of your videos I just bought my first plane 2 days ago. It was that small router plane. I bought it to clean out daddo joints. And I also bought a set of sharpening stones. Your fault. lol
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I've been doing working for 40 years, but always with power tools. I've always had a token set of cheap hand tools. Saws, chisels, files etc. But they are mostly for show rather than actual use.
I just recently added the large LN router plane to my kit and im surprised at just how much i use it . The only drawback i can think of was the small fence but thxs for suggesting a secondary base plate that can support a larger homemade fence.
I ordered a Veritas router plane in January, thinking "yeah, it's out of stock, but I'm sure they'll get some more soon." To this day, still no news on that front... Amazing how thoroughly out of stock much of their product catalog is, especially in Europe.
In the UK you can't buy Lie Nielsen, Veritas or at last look Cosman tools. Even Quangsheng is out of stock. As you say Rob welcome to Covid. Regards Jim UK.
I just recently got a Veritas large router plane and their shooting plane - pure luck and joy! Considering how sought-after they are, perhaps I should get a safe for them...
At 14:00 why couldn't you just capture a second board the thickness of the one your plaining and use it to support the router? Or attack an outrigger board the same thickness as the one your working on to the wing half and make it support itself?
You absolutely can do that but that takes more set-up time. I find it much quicker and easier to keep my base on, then i just grab the plane when I need it and all that extra surface area means I dont need to mill up an duplicate nor set an outrigger
I really enjoy your videos, but what you said about the Stanley No 71 is to be blunt ‘rubbish’. I’ve used the 71 since the 1970s and I’ve never had problems with the blade slipping out. You claim that the over priced tools you use from lie Nielsen have solved an issue that doesn’t exist, all they’ve done is replaced the wing nut with a screw and moved it to the side of the tool. Think about this; you use a screw driver to get it tight, if you use a pair of pliers you can get the locking mechanisms on the Stanley just as secure and this will eliminate any slipping. Please stop rubbishing other tools in favour of the over priced Lie Nielsen tool range!
Thanks so much for the excellent, informative videos, Rob. Greatly appreciated! I have a question about open vs closed throat router planes. My limited brain capacity tell me the open throat planes would give a better view (especially when pulling towards yourself), but the closed throat variety would provide less flex and be more stable across the width. I don't know if either of those are actual issues, just something I've been pondering. It seems the open throat are more popular (as you have one), but curious as to why. The open throat version at Lie-Nielsen has been out of stock forever it seems. They do have the closed version in stock. Can you share your thoughts about this? Any qualms about the closed throat version?
I use my small one for cleaning up pickup pockets in guitar bodies. A machine router just doesn't clean up as nice as the router plane. Also if I have to remove a bit more depth in the pocket the router plane is simply way faster. By the time I hook up the machine and get it set the router plane has already completed the job.
Thanks for this Rob, I just scored a Veritas router plane for $35! My handtool journey continues!
A problem I had with the small router plane is with the brass thumbscrew deforming at the tip as you lock it down tightly. What happened is that the tip had a notch form against the surface of the tip which prevented the last bit of turning to fully secure the blade from shifting under cutting pressure by grabing the blade shaft edge. To solve it I put a copper plated steel BB up against the blade's shaft in the threaded hole for the thumbscrew, then inserted the thumbscrew and, as I tightened it, the BB started to turn that edge created slot in the tip into a circular depression and lock the blade as tightly as needed. It will also slightly swage the tip end of the thumbscrew so your adjustment won't back off. Yes, it's easy to lose the BB if you take the blade out for honing, etc. I happen to have a 3/4" long by 3/16"x 3/16" ceramic magnet that I just slip into the square hole for the blade's shaft as I remove the blade which blocks the BB from slipping out of the now empty shaft hole and is also easy to just store on either the blade's shaft or the plane's body when otherwise not in active use.
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
FYI - Here is a quick tip to help stabilize the router plane when cutting rabbets or tenons: I often put a scrap piece of wood the same thickness as the piece I am working on beside it on the other side of the rabbet or tenon to support the other side of the plane. It essentially simulates cutting a dado, which is what the plane was designed to do.
Another outstanding video, not a wasted word, clear, detailed, precise. Outstanding quality video.
Thank you
Your home made base makes so much sense
Brilliant tuition - always at least one hidden gem - like a shaving-shim!
You can also use shim stock or long feeler gauges as a shim
@@oscarschultz4629 Sure - but the beauty of Robs suggestion is that you get exact multiples of whatever that plane has just produced - it's genius!
Rob, I literally can watch your videos and forget about things for a while, and learn too. Thank you for the reprieve!
Well thank you for watching and commenting I really appreciate it
Very helpful!
Thank you, great explanation and demonstration.
Love to use the router plane! One of the most fun tools in the shop.
thank you
Excellent video Rob.
Thanks for the video!!!
Thank you for watching and commenting
Looks like a trip to the wood store!
Very well explained and demonstrated
Thanks Rob, good stuff as usual!
Thanks for commenting
You are a true craftsman, my friend.
Thanks for watching and commenting
thanks for all this information. I added the video to my router plane playlist, where i collect videos about the router plane, especially many home made ones. making one yourself may be an option for people with limited budgets.
Thanks for your instructive tutorial on the use of this hand plane.
Thank you for watching the video and commenting we really appreciate it
Just what I need to true up dadoes in plywood. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Great video on using this tool.
Thank you so much we really appreciate you watching and commenting
i picked up both of these based on one of your tool recomendation videos. i couldnt be happier with them both and i used them this week when working on my saw holsters.
So glad you are happy with them, i am
Finish hand-routing a dado applies particularly to those of us using a jobsite table saw with a cast aluminum top. The aluminum is almost never perfectly flat, and that will invariably cause a difference in depth from one part of a sawn dado or rabbet to another. The router plane setup you demonstrate, Rob, offers a practical and accurate solution to the problem.
Thanks for the insight in how best to sharpen the router plan blade. I will know go sharpen mine.
Glad it was helpful
Wow that shaving tip was awesome, a why didn't I think of that moment. You could aim for a tight fit then do that to give it a little room for glue.
Thank you Rob, very helpful, considering I finally was able to purchase my first Old Stanley 71 router plane.
Sharpen it up and start using it
Thanks for this video!
I learned something from it I want to try. It never occurred to me to use it to make a rabbet with mine. Got to see if I can! Thanks again!
Great video for Friday being that I received my Lie-Nielsen large router plane in the mail today~! The wanted an open-throat plane, but they've been out of stock for some time now, so I got the closed-throat. I figured it wouldn't really matter since I'll end up putting a base plate on it like you have. I've had my small one for about a year now and love it. I get so much out of seeing the different ways that you use it in ways I wouldn't have thought of. Thanks for the super instruction~!
Closed through is just fine, its a great plane. enjoy
This is an indispensable tool for the hand-tool woodworker. I bought the large router plane and the available extra blade sizes for versatility. As you say, it doesn’t seem to get a lot of use, but I find myself reaching for it to finish almost all my dadoes and rabbets to perfection. I hadn’t thought of using it to finish tenons, though... great tip!
Absolutely agree, I've owned one for about three years (used to think it's one of "Dad's" tools) but after using one you find it's so much more refined than an electric router for fine work. By the way, if you have at least two tenons to trim put them end to end and the plane has an even reference surface + you get to do both at the same time (sorry Rob - a Paul Sellers tip).
Yes it’s perfect for dadoes and rabbets, and it’s great for tenons. Cut your tenon very slightly fat and then trim both sides absolutely parallel and sneak up on the finish.
Bites my hide!
HI rob defiantly a great tool for a perfect joint.
Yes it is
I got a Lie-Nielsen router plane a couple years ago, it’s an absolute joy to use!
I love mine
I have the larger LN router plane. I don't use it often but when I do I am glad I have it.
Yes, thats the nature of specialty plane
It’s a good idea if possible to support the base on both sides. So place two tenons end to end to rout, or rout both the tenons and then cross cut them apart, or have a piece of the same wood to support one side.
Very timely training. I just bought a router plane this week and was getting ready to sharpen the blade. Well, kind of wondering how to sharpen it is probably more correct. Thank you again!
I knew that which is why i made this video for you now!
Thanks again for another great video! I find the router plane to be the best option for flattening the bottom of mortises for bow ties. They are often difficult to work with a chisel but the router plane cleans it up nicely.
Another great use!
I've found that I go back and re watch your videos and " find " new stuff, the point Im making is the set screw pushing at two diffrent surfaces makes a big change (.010 ") that my cheep roughter plane makes. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and commenting
I bought my lie nelson large router last 2 months and I absolutely in love , now waiting my lie nelson jack low angle plane to arrive soon 😊 .
You should watch my review on low angle jack planes
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I will , thanks 👍
Hi Rob, recently discovered your channel and I'm very glad with your videos. I'm trying to figure out make the same job with a shoulder plane. It's not easier to flatten a dadoe or a tenon with a shoulder plane?
Thanks for the explanation of the router plane. Off-question... what brand of screwdriver are you using at 2:31?
Awesome video! KM tools just came out with their own design. Have you had a chance to give it a once over?
Hi Rob,
Thanks for all the advice in theses videos, always learning something. When would you use the spear point cutter in the router plane?
Inlay mostly
Excellent presentation. And a thorough explanation of the Lie Nielsen blade adjustment refinement. Thanks for the video! (It looks like Lee Valley has a similar blade treatment. Any comment on comparison?)
The locking mechanism is completely different
Veritas has a much simpler design. And their blades work in the stanley 71 and 71 ½.
Hello Rob - Thanks for all the valuable information. I have been looking at a router plane. @robcosman Do you have any preference between closed throat and open throat router planes? Appreciate your input.
I appreciate your detailed way of explaining what you are doing, from the first time I watched your video I completely understood what you was doing 🤠
I have a question about your experience with router planers, what happened that caused you to desire a larger reference surface?
This is a bad time to ask because I’ve already ordered it but, have you used the Katz-Mosses router plane and how does it compare to LN and LV?
I wonder if using a feeler gauge instead of a shaving would work. Maybe you would need two to "level" the router with the reference surface. You could measure the difference between the two mating surfaces and use close to that to remove. I must try it next time. You give me so many tips and things to think about.
Feeler gauge works perfectly
Great video with lots of nice tips. I am guessing that you prefer the open throat planes since you have that style (unless you have both models). Any reason/advantages to choose a closed throat plane over an open throat plane?
I dont think there is a significant difference between the two. If you add a base to them there is no diference
I talked to Paul seller he said u should be using Stanley’s
I love both of my router planes. one question though. Why not use a piece of 3/8 or 1/2" plexiglass for the second base so you can watch the cutter work?'
That would work and it’s a good idea
Number 4
Id like to see how you use one to do cavities like for key wallet caddies or something
I have a wooden one with a wedge. Works perfecty and is easy to make. No need to thow money at a problem you can solve with your own hands.
If you can make your own tools; yes
@@RobCosmanWoodworking We work with wood and it´s made out of wood.
You should give it a try, it´s not vomplicated.
Hello Mr. Cosman. When router planing tenon faces like you demonstrated, is it recommended to try to take equal amounts of material off of opposing sides, similarly to how one would alternate sides through a thickness planer?
Yes, absolutely. I should have been more clear on that in the video
Hi Rob and gang, is it possible to use the ruler trick on the back of the blade? Do you prefer an open mouth router plane to a closed one? And is it benifisial when sizing a tenon as shown to have two tenons facing each other and be able to bring two tenons down to size at the same time but more importantly the plane would sit on both tenon legs or stretchers and so won't dip in use so your left hand is free to move the plane instead of ballanceing it.
Great review as always
No you don’t wanna do that the router blade is similar to a chisel in that when it’s cutting the wood the back is a reference surface. Unlike a plane when the plane is Kylie in the wood the bottom of the plane as a reference surface so do not use the ruler trick on router blades
Sound like you caught a cold. Please stay healthy so we can see you more.
I did...Thanks for the well wishes
Great video as usual, but I do have one question Rob.
Why do you call it a “Router Plane” rather than the original name of “Granny’s Tooth”?
For the tenon adjustment, I assume you'd want to use the plane on both sides of the tenon, each time you make a depth adjustment, so you keep the tenon centered?
Yes you do. I should have been more clear on that point in the video
Rob, How do you insure that when you are sharpening the blade the 'cutting edge' remains parallel to the sole of the plane? Asked differently (if the question is not clear, and assuming that the shaft of the blade will be exactly 90 degrees to the base of the plane), how do you guarantee that the cutting edge will be perfectly perpendicular to the shaft? Even the slightest angle of deflection will result in gouges in the wood. Sorry if I am asking this poorly, and thanks for a great video.
Your thinking is a bit wrong. This is not like a plane blade, more like a chisel. The bottom of the blade (the back) MUST be fla. YOU CANNOT use the ruler trick on this. The plane holds the blade parallel to the bottom. For practical purposes it does not matter the anglr you sharpen the bevel on top as long as it meets the flat bottom at the cutting edge in a straight line
Great video! You just made a sale for Lie-Nielsen. Would you recommend the open throat or closed?
Teally does not matter, right now they are out og open so go for the closed
Will do. Thank you!
Rob, I'm an old guy now and ever since acquiring my first router plane I've bought up old ones whenever I find a good one. Unpacking now from a move six years ago, I've so far found eleven cast iron or wood bodied examples. Though the largest has a sole about like the shoe you've added to your larger router, I have to admit that my needs would be better served by the excellent Veritas routers you've demonstrated here. They are by Veritas, right?
The router plane Rob is showcasing in this video is a Lie-Nielsen, not Veritas. Just letting you know :)
@@Keth.S Thank you. The few new planes I ever bought were Lie-Nielsen and fine tools. Proof of their excellence is that when I use them I cannot remember their price.
Have you tried the veritas one? I'm surprised you don't support them or talk of them more both y'all being Canadian.
The LN with the square blade shaft stays put, much better.
Rob can't comment on Veritas for legal reasons.
But yes, that's the way I went. The key factor is that a certain english woodworker's recommendations stimulated demand in the collector's department. Net result is that a complete vintage Stanley 71 is often more expensive than a brand new Veritas. I prefer vintage but buy it only when (a) vintage quality is at least as good as modern new (most pre-WWII planes) and (b) it's significantly cheaper than new (to compensate for the time and effort bringing it back to working condition).
I bought a Veritas Router plane today and am having a bit of a challenge with it. When cleaning up a rabbet that runs with the grain, how do you stop the router blade digging in?
1) go with th egrain, 2) much thinner cut 3) sharper blade
I’m surprised you didn’t mention using the router plane for morticing hardware. Hinges and door strikes and such.
because of your videos I just bought my first plane 2 days ago. It was that small router plane. I bought it to clean out daddo joints. And I also bought a set of sharpening stones. Your fault. lol
Careful, woodworking is addictive
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I've been doing working for 40 years, but always with power tools. I've always had a token set of cheap hand tools. Saws, chisels, files etc. But they are mostly for show rather than actual use.
Rather than using a shaving for minimal cuts, a cigarette paper or other fine paper does the job without issue.
I just recently added the large LN router plane to my kit and im surprised at just how much i use it . The only drawback i can think of was the small fence but thxs for suggesting a secondary base plate that can support a larger homemade fence.
You bet
Should I get a router plane or shoulder plane first?
Router is more useful in my opinion.
Yep I agree with Rob. The router plane gets used by me more than a shoulder plane.... such a versatile tool
I ordered a Veritas router plane in January, thinking "yeah, it's out of stock, but I'm sure they'll get some more soon." To this day, still no news on that front... Amazing how thoroughly out of stock much of their product catalog is, especially in Europe.
Welcome to Covid. Its the same most everywhere
I bought my Veritas router plane before covid. Currently hyvlar.se has one (or more?) on sale at their webshop...
I sold my medium sized for double price on eBay. With the large router plane I am very happy.
In the UK you can't buy Lie Nielsen, Veritas or at last look Cosman tools. Even Quangsheng is out of stock. As you say Rob welcome to Covid. Regards Jim UK.
I just recently got a Veritas large router plane and their shooting plane - pure luck and joy! Considering how sought-after they are, perhaps I should get a safe for them...
At 14:00 why couldn't you just capture a second board the thickness of the one your plaining and use it to support the router? Or attack an outrigger board the same thickness as the one your working on to the wing half and make it support itself?
You absolutely can do that but that takes more set-up time. I find it much quicker and easier to keep my base on, then i just grab the plane when I need it and all that extra surface area means I dont need to mill up an duplicate nor set an outrigger
How thick is the base you made for your router plane?
Open or closed throat?
I have the open throat, but either will work.
To a piece of wood being torrefied must be torrefying.
Thats a good one
I really enjoy your videos, but what you said about the Stanley No 71 is to be blunt ‘rubbish’. I’ve used the 71 since the 1970s and I’ve never had problems with the blade slipping out. You claim that the over priced tools you use from lie Nielsen have solved an issue that doesn’t exist, all they’ve done is replaced the wing nut with a screw and moved it to the side of the tool. Think about this; you use a screw driver to get it tight, if you use a pair of pliers you can get the locking mechanisms on the Stanley just as secure and this will eliminate any slipping. Please stop rubbishing other tools in favour of the over priced Lie Nielsen tool range!
Have you looked at the price of used Stanleys lately? Another $50 and you're approaching L-N prices. I blame Paul Selllers. lol
Thanks so much for the excellent, informative videos, Rob. Greatly appreciated! I have a question about open vs closed throat router planes. My limited brain capacity tell me the open throat planes would give a better view (especially when pulling towards yourself), but the closed throat variety would provide less flex and be more stable across the width. I don't know if either of those are actual issues, just something I've been pondering. It seems the open throat are more popular (as you have one), but curious as to why. The open throat version at Lie-Nielsen has been out of stock forever it seems. They do have the closed version in stock.
Can you share your thoughts about this? Any qualms about the closed throat version?
I use my small one for cleaning up pickup pockets in guitar bodies. A machine router just doesn't clean up as nice as the router plane. Also if I have to remove a bit more depth in the pocket the router plane is simply way faster. By the time I hook up the machine and get it set the router plane has already completed the job.