Thanks! I thought I might have to tear it out and rebuild these from scratch, but this will be much quicker. The shims are glued in and the filler is drying as I type. It’s already clear that this is going to work nicely.
Thank-you! Great job. I took 2 doors out and installed barn type sliding doors to my pantry and a master bath. You just helped me so much. Now I'm going to finally fill those hinge holes! Again, thank-you!
Nicely done video! I couldn’t figure out how I was going to cover those up and then I had the idea to look it up on here. Low and behold I found your video. Thank you!
Thank you. I'm trying to repurpose some old doors I found on FB marketplace. I had 4. And found your video and did all the repairs to the hinges by myself with no help from the hubby. Pretty proud how they turned out. Now, I just have to paint. Thank you.
wow! saved me trying like three + other ways that wouldn't have worked and taken tons of time! this was excellent! thank you! now i can go mess up another project instead of this one!~
First class video. I work in building maintenance in the UK and have had to carry out this process more times than I can remember. I use exactly the same method. I use a two part wood filler which I suspect similar to Bondo's Auto body filler (it smells like body filler) It sets fast no matter how thick it's applied and sands to a glass like finish..
@@RefreshHomeImprovements Hi, it,s called Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler. It retails in the UK for around £12.50 for 550 grams. But I'm not certain it's not that different from body filler!
@@georgepritchard3010 what would you recommend for a structural repair, I find to seal wood filler flakes or cracks away when trying to chisel a new hinge cut out
@@AbdulSalam-xe4md Hi Abdul. I have not found any wood filler that works particularly well when being chiselled. (even with the sharpest of tools) There is always a risk of cracking or chipping. If you need to cut a mortise into it for example for a hinge I would suggest using a router. I know from experience that this will work, but would love to hear if anyone else has an alternative method.
That came out perfect! Have done it with the wood filler....besides the cracking, creating that sharp corner will drive you "kooky". Great idea...thank you!
I loved the idea of a summary of what you did at the end! Drove it into my feeble little mind, it did! (Thanks for the hint! - funny how obvious this was once I saw you do it ;->)
Thank you. When I special ordered a narrow closet door then cut out 3 hinges... but the door only needs 2. I'm going to fill it in like this rather than add the 3rd middle hinge
Nothing special about the tape- its merely there to hold the wood in place while the glue cures. After the glue is dry, remove the tape, fill any gaps with wood filler. When that dries, sand it flush and seal it with a coat of primer. After that you’re ready to paint as you normally would 👍
@@RefreshHomeImprovements, thank you. i had the same question and was glad to find the answer here. i thought i was supposed to paint *over* the tape. this is exactly what i need to do. thanks for the simple informative video.
No problem! In MOST cases you’ll be totally fine with using only a wood filler- it sands quite smooth, and should look seamless after painted. If you want a really smooth finish, you can use a product like a glazing putty (www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/bondo-glaze-spot-putty-133-ml-0475662p.html) designed to fill extremely minor imperfections and sand to a glassy-smooth finish. You could also use a spackle/drywall compound here. We’ve had success with all of the above. The key takeaway is to use products with a finer aggregate (or smaller solids) that will allow you to achieve a smoother finish when sanded 👍
Thanks, Dennis! If by remove the jamb, you mean the door-stop… we have a full tutorial on how we safely remove mouldings if you’re interested. Check it out!
Look great! Which wood filler did you use? DAP Plastic Wood 4 oz. Natural Solvent Wood Filler didn't work well and I need to repair 5 more hinge pockets.
We used DAP for this one. When you say it didn't work, what exactly happened? Is it possible the gaps were too large to fill with wood filler? We've had lots of success with Lepage's wood fillers over the years, you might try that. Otherwise you might need to switch to Bondo's Auto body filler for larger gaps 👍
That’s a much trickier situation- but it can be done. In an ideal world, the best bet is to get your hands on a piece of wood that is the same species as the jamb and create a ‘filler piece’ from that (in other words cut it to the same size and thickness as the pocket you’re trying to fill). Once you’ve got it to fit perfectly, try to match the stain and finish on your new piece, then it’s just a matter of gluing it in. Realistically though, if you want a more seamless finish, you’ll have to leave the new piece a little thicker than the notch you’re filling. After gluing it and adding wood filler to the gaps/seams, you’ll have to sand the patch flush to the jamb once everything is dry. At that point, you’ll likely have to sand down that entire area of jamb to raw wood and stain/finish that whole section of the jamb again. Unfortunately It’s almost impossible to blend new stain into existing, so this is most often how we do it 👍
What did you use on the rest of the door frame to get a consistent surface after removing the stop? I have an older doorway that I’m trying to even out but because there are so many layers of paint, so far one coat of MH ready patch and knocking it down isn’t covering up.
We usually recommend sanding/scraping as much of the old paint that is causing the ridge off first (its the easiest method that makes the biggest difference). After that, its just a matter of filling until you build the low areas up to match the areas with multiple coats of paint. This could mean 2 or 3 coats of spackle/woodfiller etc. before paint. If you’re still seeing signs of the old stop, try another round of filling/sanding/painting 👍
I think this one was installed with roofing nails 😂. Just grab a knife and score both sides of the entire door stop moulding (to break the seal of paint). Then carefully lift up with a pry/lever bar (or any tool that you can get to slide between the door stop and the jamb). If you want to save the moulding, just make sure you pry in the same spots it was nailed to the jamb otherwise it may split when you lift it away 👍
I just glue a piece of wood in with easy sand Bondo, cures in about 15 min and then just sand. Car body filler is cheap and easy to get forget wood filler.
Good question! Here’s a link to an IGTV video we did a while back, where we did just that 😉. Hope it’s helpful! instagram.com/tv/CDFTHRdDkbM/?igshid=ykc6g1nj5gz8
There wasn’t really much to “fill”- we simply sanded down the raised paint edges (where the door stop used to be) and used wood filler to smooth out any imperfections 👍
@@stevan1023 - I used a utility knife to cut the paint between the door frame and the door stop. The stop was stapled on and I used a putty knife and hammer to get underneath it to remove it. it was pretty simple.
@@stevan1023 we usually just run a knife along both sides where it meets the jamb to break the seal of paint (and possibly caulking), and then carefully pry it off. They’re normally just installed with a few nails, so you can get them off in one piece if you’re careful- and yes, if the other door jamb is the right size, you could totally reuse them 👍
If your filler pieces are particularly proud of the jamb, you could start with something like an 80 grit to save time, but once you closer to being flush with the jamb, switch to something finer (~180/220). Then for the filler, i wouldn’t go with anything below 220 grit 👍
Great little video! But, dude, you've got invest in a microphone. The audio was terrible. Buy a simple "shotgun" and place it on top of the camera. Or, if you want great audio, get a wireless lavalier. You can find inexpensive ones that work with any video camera.
Now two years later show us the same patch ill bet you have movement, the job should be done properly and if you don’t know how to do that you shouldn’t be making videos on how to fill hinge cutouts.
Brilliant👏🏻 you just saved me a whole Lotta money hiring a handyman. 😃
I can do this my self.. it’ll be a fun little project . 😁thank you.
Have fun! Thanks!
Thanks! I thought I might have to tear it out and rebuild these from scratch, but this will be much quicker. The shims are glued in and the filler is drying as I type. It’s already clear that this is going to work nicely.
Thank-you! Great job. I took 2 doors out and installed barn type sliding doors to my pantry and a master bath. You just helped me so much. Now I'm going to finally fill those hinge holes! Again, thank-you!
Nicely done video! I couldn’t figure out how I was going to cover those up and then I had the idea to look it up on here. Low and behold I found your video. Thank you!
Smart idea about sliding the shim to the edge.
Thanks!
Thank you. I'm trying to repurpose some old doors I found on FB marketplace. I had 4. And found your video and did all the repairs to the hinges by myself with no help from the hubby. Pretty proud how they turned out. Now, I just have to paint. Thank you.
Absolutely love to hear this! Way to go, happy to help 👍
wow! saved me trying like three + other ways that wouldn't have worked and taken tons of time! this was excellent! thank you! now i can go mess up another project instead of this one!~
haha, glad to be of assistance!
Thanks, I found a wooden paint mixing stick fit perfectly.
That’s amazing! Happy to help 👍
Your a genius
First class video. I work in building maintenance in the UK and have had to carry out this process more times than I can remember. I use exactly the same method. I use a two part wood filler which I suspect similar to Bondo's Auto body filler (it smells like body filler) It sets fast no matter how thick it's applied and sands to a glass like finish..
That’s great to hear! Would love to know what your two part filler is (sounds perfect) 👍
@@RefreshHomeImprovements Hi, it,s called Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler. It retails in the UK for around £12.50 for 550 grams. But I'm not certain it's not that different from body filler!
@@georgepritchard3010 amazing, thanks for the info!
@@georgepritchard3010 what would you recommend for a structural repair, I find to seal wood filler flakes or cracks away when trying to chisel a new hinge cut out
@@AbdulSalam-xe4md Hi Abdul. I have not found any wood filler that works particularly well when being chiselled. (even with the sharpest of tools) There is always a risk of cracking or chipping. If you need to cut a mortise into it for example for a hinge I would suggest using a router. I know from experience that this will work, but would love to hear if anyone else has an alternative method.
Thanks! Just wish I had watched this before trying to fill them with a bunch of wood putty 😅 Now to go remove that and do it right!
You can do it!
wow! great job. This is a super helpful tutorial. I appreciate the careful explanations
Glad it was helpful!
That came out perfect! Have done it with the wood filler....besides the cracking, creating that sharp corner will drive you "kooky". Great idea...thank you!
Happy to help!
This was so well put together, nicely done!
Thanks!
I loved the idea of a summary of what you did at the end! Drove it into my feeble little mind, it did! (Thanks for the hint! - funny how obvious this was once I saw you do it ;->)
Glad it was helpful!
Hi. Fab vid mate. What sanding block were you using? Many thanks
Thank you. When I special ordered a narrow closet door then cut out 3 hinges... but the door only needs 2. I'm going to fill it in like this rather than add the 3rd middle hinge
Glad I could help!
Excellent!!!!! Thank you so much. I am going to do this.❤
Thank you for getting me out of a jam:)
we see what you did there 😉
Did something similar but used lolly sticks.
What’s the purpose of the tape again? Is it to hold the piece in a certain position while it dries? What happens if you don’t?
What trim paint was on there that was so glossy?
Kind of looks like advanced glossy?
Great results
thanks!
What do you do if its natural wood door frame and not white?
Awesome! Thanks for sharing the tip!
Happy to help!
Could you do a video on how to make a hole in the closet to hang up a clothes rack without putting a hole in the popcorn wall.
we’ll see what we can do 😉
Is that a special tape? And you just kilz over after sanding and paint? I'm so confused about the tape. That's how far I've gotten. Thanks
Nothing special about the tape- its merely there to hold the wood in place while the glue cures. After the glue is dry, remove the tape, fill any gaps with wood filler. When that dries, sand it flush and seal it with a coat of primer. After that you’re ready to paint as you normally would 👍
@@RefreshHomeImprovements, thank you. i had the same question and was glad to find the answer here. i thought i was supposed to paint *over* the tape. this is exactly what i need to do. thanks for the simple informative video.
Great video. Thank you.
Thanks for watching 👍
Thanks, doing this today.
Oh, thank GOODNESS I found this video!
I've been using ramen noodles and super glue up until now.
That’s awesome (though your solution sounds tastier 🍜)👍
Brilliant, thank you!
Happy to help 👍
Hi! What is the brand/product you use after sanding the wood filler? I couldn’t catch exactly what you said. Thank you!
No problem! In MOST cases you’ll be totally fine with using only a wood filler- it sands quite smooth, and should look seamless after painted. If you want a really smooth finish, you can use a product like a glazing putty (www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/bondo-glaze-spot-putty-133-ml-0475662p.html) designed to fill extremely minor imperfections and sand to a glassy-smooth finish. You could also use a spackle/drywall compound here. We’ve had success with all of the above. The key takeaway is to use products with a finer aggregate (or smaller solids) that will allow you to achieve a smoother finish when sanded 👍
Perfect! Thanks, I'm doing it now :)
Awesome, happy to help!
Great Video. Now how did you remove the Jam!?
Thanks, Dennis! If by remove the jamb, you mean the door-stop… we have a full tutorial on how we safely remove mouldings if you’re interested. Check it out!
Look great! Which wood filler did you use? DAP Plastic Wood 4 oz. Natural Solvent Wood Filler didn't work well and I need to repair 5 more hinge pockets.
We used DAP for this one. When you say it didn't work, what exactly happened? Is it possible the gaps were too large to fill with wood filler? We've had lots of success with Lepage's wood fillers over the years, you might try that. Otherwise you might need to switch to Bondo's Auto body filler for larger gaps 👍
@@RefreshHomeImprovements
Would this be strong enough to re attach the door?
usually a paint stick from Home Depot makes a perfect shim.
What method(s) would you use if the woodwork is stained?
That’s a much trickier situation- but it can be done. In an ideal world, the best bet is to get your hands on a piece of wood that is the same species as the jamb and create a ‘filler piece’ from that (in other words cut it to the same size and thickness as the pocket you’re trying to fill). Once you’ve got it to fit perfectly, try to match the stain and finish on your new piece, then it’s just a matter of gluing it in. Realistically though, if you want a more seamless finish, you’ll have to leave the new piece a little thicker than the notch you’re filling. After gluing it and adding wood filler to the gaps/seams, you’ll have to sand the patch flush to the jamb once everything is dry. At that point, you’ll likely have to sand down that entire area of jamb to raw wood and stain/finish that whole section of the jamb again. Unfortunately It’s almost impossible to blend new stain into existing, so this is most often how we do it 👍
Very nice thank you
Thank you too!
What did you use on the rest of the door frame to get a consistent surface after removing the stop? I have an older doorway that I’m trying to even out but because there are so many layers of paint, so far one coat of MH ready patch and knocking it down isn’t covering up.
We usually recommend sanding/scraping as much of the old paint that is causing the ridge off first (its the easiest method that makes the biggest difference). After that, its just a matter of filling until you build the low areas up to match the areas with multiple coats of paint. This could mean 2 or 3 coats of spackle/woodfiller etc. before paint. If you’re still seeing signs of the old stop, try another round of filling/sanding/painting 👍
I really want to remove the middle trim around the frame. How did you do that? Mine looks like it was tacked in with brads.
I think this one was installed with roofing nails 😂. Just grab a knife and score both sides of the entire door stop moulding (to break the seal of paint). Then carefully lift up with a pry/lever bar (or any tool that you can get to slide between the door stop and the jamb). If you want to save the moulding, just make sure you pry in the same spots it was nailed to the jamb otherwise it may split when you lift it away 👍
Thnx!)
You’re most welcome 😉
Thank you 👋
No problem 👍
what exactly are those shims called ? all I can find is doorstop shape shims, not flat
I just glue a piece of wood in with easy sand Bondo, cures in about 15 min and then just sand. Car body filler is cheap and easy to get forget wood filler.
That works too 👍
How do I paint and modernize bathroom tiles? Please ! Thanks
Good question! Here’s a link to an IGTV video we did a while back, where we did just that 😉. Hope it’s helpful!
instagram.com/tv/CDFTHRdDkbM/?igshid=ykc6g1nj5gz8
Another easier way ive delt with loose screws.is to place shims behind the notch. Evenly. Increase anyone is fixing their saggy hinges n
Cool tip 👍 thanks!
cant hear but good video
Thanks 👍 we’ll work on the audio
What’s a labor cost for someone to bondo those hinge spots ?
What did you use to fill in the gap where the door stop was?
There wasn’t really much to “fill”- we simply sanded down the raised paint edges (where the door stop used to be) and used wood filler to smooth out any imperfections 👍
How did you remove the door stop? Can it be reused in another room?
@@stevan1023 - I used a utility knife to cut the paint between the door frame and the door stop. The stop was stapled on and I used a putty knife and hammer to get underneath it to remove it. it was pretty simple.
@@stevan1023 we usually just run a knife along both sides where it meets the jamb to break the seal of paint (and possibly caulking), and then carefully pry it off. They’re normally just installed with a few nails, so you can get them off in one piece if you’re careful- and yes, if the other door jamb is the right size, you could totally reuse them 👍
Nooice!
thanks!
Glove name. In our city wood glue is white
You need more VOLUME, mine is up all the way & can hardly hear you.
what grit sandpaper do you use?
If your filler pieces are particularly proud of the jamb, you could start with something like an 80 grit to save time, but once you closer to being flush with the jamb, switch to something finer (~180/220). Then for the filler, i wouldn’t go with anything below 220 grit 👍
Great little video! But, dude, you've got invest in a microphone. The audio was terrible. Buy a simple "shotgun" and place it on top of the camera. Or, if you want great audio, get a wireless lavalier. You can find inexpensive ones that work with any video camera.
Now two years later show us the same patch ill bet you have movement, the job should be done properly and if you don’t know how to do that you shouldn’t be making videos on how to fill hinge cutouts.
How do you do them,please attach your video
How would you do it sir...