CDI Showdown! Which one is best for you? Motorized bike | BikeBerry
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- čas přidán 5. 07. 2024
- Unlock the secrets of the CDI with BikeBerry.com! In this video, you'll find an overview of the different types of CDI motorized bike parts and accessories from BikeBerry.com. Compare and contrast the features and benefits of each type of CDI motorized bike part, and learn how to choose the best one for your specific needs. Get the information you need to make the best decision for your motorized bike parts needs with BikeBerry.com!
Buy your next CDI here 👇
Basic CDI
www.bikeberry.com/products/cd...
Performance CDI
www.bikeberry.com/products/pe...
Stage 1 performance CDI
www.bikeberry.com/products/st...
Volt Master Stage 1
www.bikeberry.com/products/bb...
Volt Master Stage 2
www.bikeberry.com/products/bb...
***Every single part mentioned can be purchased here 👇👇👇👇👇***
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***Everything you need to make your own Motorized Bicycle.***
Chapters
0:00 - 0:44 - Intro
0:44 - 1:14 - Wiring the CDI intro
1:14 - 2:26 - Kill switch explanation
2:26 - 2:56 - Spark Plug boot differences
2:56 - 3:50 - Wiring the standard CDI
3:50 - 4:28 - Volt Master Stage 1 and Stage 2 comparison
4:28 - 4:59 - Volt Master Stage 1 installation
4:59 - 5:30 - F-Zero BTR 100cc basic CDI ride intro
5:30 - 6:00 - F-Zero BTR 100cc basic CDI ride
6:01 - 6:12 - Performance CDI intro
6:12 - 6:44 - F-Zero BTR 100cc performance CDI ride
6:44 - 7:06 - Performance CDI Stage 1 Intro
7:06 - 8:28 - Parts and durability of CDI Performance Stage 1
8:28 - 8:55 - F-Zero BTR 100cc Stage1 Performance CDI ride
8:55 - 9:12 - Volt Master CDI Stage 1 Intro
9:12 - 9:48 - F-Zero BTR 100cc Volt Master Stage 1 CDI and coil ride
9:48 - 10:51 - Volt Master Stage 1 and coil ride review
10:51 - 11:28 - Volt Master Stage 2 CDI Intro
11:28 - 12:17 - F-Zero BTR 100cc Volt Master Stage 2 CDI and coil ride
12:17 - 12:40 - Volt Master Stage 2 CDI ride review
12:40 - 14:15 - Motorized Bike CDI review and recommendations
14:15 - 15:00 - Motorized Bike CDI wrap up
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I had a Grumbee 80cc many years back ..The exhaust cap fell off .the bolt that held it on snapped off so I ran it with an open exhaust. That thing was ear piercing...My Neighbors loved me when I rode through the neighborhood late at night on my way home .They hear me coming a mile away ..Dogs also loved it
Haha that’s great! Thank for the story 😊
There is a tool that is used by auto mechanics that measures how strong of a spark a coil can make to determine if a coil is weak or strong. It has a adjustable knob that widens the gap and tells you how much voltage the coil should make for that amount of gap. More voltage means stronger spark even if you gap the spark plug more (like 30 or more).
Oh that would be cool! I’ll do some research. 👊
@@tonytaylor5087 oh and I forgot to mention that it also measures the CONSISTENCY of the spark since some coils don't always fire because they going bad or bad quality.
Great video! When collecting information to differentiate between the CDIs, I would be careful about relying on performance based metrics. Many of the benefits may not directly relate to performance, things to consider could be testing cold starts, or watching for 4-stroking to see if it is able to ignite the fuel mixture more consistently under sub-ideal conditions. The only performance metric that may be worth measuring is acceleration, since it might fire more consistently throughout the RPM range. I have been considering the volt master CDI and I would love to see what kinda of changes it would bring!
Great insight! I was thinking along the lines of various conditions. Thank you!
How about a map that would display the timing curve through the rpm range so you know what it actually does
Okay, well, thanks again Tony. It's good to know about those upgrade plug wires and caps. My red one seems to have deteriorated just from the AZ heat. The thing still runs fine, it just looks faded and cracked.
just purchased a stage 2 kit picking it up tomorrow, cant wait to see and feel the difference, also purchased the 26'' 10 spokes mag set, had i known you now sell an upgraded magneto that actually has charging capabilities i definitely would have added that to the order, whats up with velocity stacks? do you not have them anymore?
According to the Dyno videos they are all the same and the best thing for you to do is get a good exhaust because Dyno have shown that it's a big HP upgrade
Interesting, like to see those.
Roger that
I feel like my factory one is failing already been less than a month, hard starting, off and on power loss, but its getting her fuel and air, does have spark, did replace the factory ZC plug last time it wouldn't start and it fired right up, ran ok. Then today I noticed it wasting hitting top rpm like it should, again, took the plug out, checked the connections put the plug back in and the freaking thing was flying and all kinds of torque, now later today I'm back to it struggling to get started and not topping out even close to what it should as well as stalling. Checked everything else, there is fire but I think the spark is weak. I have tried adjusting the fuel every which way. Its gotta be the CDI
Very interesting tests , I wonder if you could run the volt master stage 1 & 2 boxes with the dual spark plug CDI setup
I've watched a bunch of your videos and you are a great help. I'm a new builder. I'm still running the kit CD and would like to see if there is a difference when it comes to MPG
Show actual ignition curves from idle to 9000 rpm! That's what would help!!!!!!!!!
I’ve got a tachometer. What else do I need to retrieve the data?
Thank you once again for a very usefull video. I have a question. The standard magnet coil produce 6 volts. If i replace it with a 12volts magnet coil, it will have any affect to the standard cdi?
I always enjoy your videos! 😊... I'm with the Stage 2 and I really appreciate the powerful Spark it Brings on! I like the NGK as well spark plugs and the Wires I Will Always Use.. Thanks again for your help Always
Hey BikeBerry, what are the resistance specs out of the box for each of the units? The stock and the red high performance upgraded one for me rendered the exact same reading in Ohms. I bought and compared them consistently among three kits and they were all the same ohms... The only difference being that in some kits the red connector plug did not come already connected to the main red wire, once it was connected I got a consistent reading of 73 ohms. As per Ohms law, V=IR, shouldn't we expect a lower resistance value to be correlated to a better performing CDI and magneto? Let me know your thoughts
Good vibes bro 💯😎
Of interest to me. Will be how long to reach the top speed of the bike for each of the CDI's. And what is the top speed? Timed from when the motor picks up. No longer on the pedals.
Great video. My Voltmatter CDI Stage 2 arrives tomorrow. Per FedEx.
Would like to see a video with the dual plug cylinder head with that stage 2 cdi if it’s even possible
For sure! Dual plug is something I’ve been working on so I’ll add that idea in the mix if possible.
@@tonytaylor5087 I’m about to install a dual plug head and a new g4 cylinder and see how it goes
Sweet. Let me know the results!
my coil shorted out and is not properly working, what coils you got?
I wanted to make a 10k rpm build will this cdi be good?
Show voltage frame each.
Dude you showed us literally nothing except for the fact that the engine will fire with each cdi, and that you can putt around a little, but I mean, come on man...
I bought a vote masters stage one. And I had nothing but trouble with that I was using an NT carburetor
And moved to a racing carburetor. With the volt master and the racing carb it couldn't get the bike started
I thought it was the carburetor so I went back to the NT. It ran the tiny bit better but still wouldn't start completely
So I went back to the original CDI and it fired right up. Went back to trying the racing carb it was not as good.
So I stuck with NT and the original CDI. And sent back both carburetor and volt master. When I got the CDI volt master
I thought it'd been used. Because of the way it was mailed to me through Amazon. I'm wondering if that was the case and you think
I should try it again
Troubleshooting things can be tough. The correlation between carb and CDI is a strange one. I guess at the end of the day always be testing.
Take them apart and see if the inner hardware used is any different and if so what is different?.. that would be a very measurable method of testing the product overall quality
I my three friends and I all bought the stage two CDI and it didn't work for any of us. Very disappointed, we all returned the products. Unfortunately, the stage one CDI is sold out...
Just installed the stage two and it doesn't work.
I have a question
You neglected to mention standalone CDI ignitions... why would you neglect to mention the actual best ignition module system for these engines...?
i just have alot of hills to deal with no need for speed for me
The dragy app may have been helpful.
What’s the Dragy app?
@@tonytaylor5087 it's a speed logging app you know 0 to 30 0 to 60 8th mile quarter mile that kind of thing...
Nice! I’ll check it out.
stronger spark means more power and speed
Test by measuring the acceleration time from 10km/h to 40km/h! 😋
Here is a link of a quick video I made a while back that shows roughly how the sparkplug coil tester works:. czcams.com/video/7vAF0Xp6Z4U/video.html
see how fast 0 to whatever top speed
its like I said on your cylinder head video, the stage 1 and stage 2 are acting like they are advancing the timing by burn more of the mixture by the time the piston hit top dead center and that equals more pressure pushing the piston back down. Also the way you can compare is by simple inspecting the spark plug colors for lean or rich conditions, temp check the engine to see if the engine is burning more fuel and not lean because richer mixtures run a bit cooler and finally if you want to spend a bit of more and attach a small 12v battery to the back of a bike and wire up a air fuel gauge than weld the bung on the exhaust for sensor or if no welding can be done you can do this, get some bendable bracket style of metal and make a hole and thread it for the sensor than slight thread lock to help and thread on but be careful with thread locker and sensor, than bend it to go into the exhaust doesn't need to go in far 4 inches min but 6 is preferable than drill a hole through the exhaust and the metal bracket and bolt it on with thread locker. the AFR gauge and sensor would allow for more prefect carb tuning and something for a race type engine but you can get the best data from it.
I'm not sold on the performance... reliability maybe but extra performance idk anyone have more real world experience with these high-end models???
I’m wondering also. Reliability, higher quality parts, more consistent operating parameters, etc. I absolutely felt a kick when I put the stage 1 & 2 on. Now I’m curious as to what contributed to it. I’m gonna keep running them and see.
I feel like most people correlate performance on these things with speed so maybe just some top speed and acceleration comparisons would be helpful
For sure! I’ll do that once the BT 100 is broken in. I can tell it’s still acting new but getting stronger and stronger on its own.
Top speed run
No actually those suck it had weak park and my bike stalled out at stop so when I went back to the stock cdi everything was better
Here's some information for you. These change your ignition timing. People in the pit bike community have done some test. Most start a 0 rpm 20 degree's advance so unless you change your idle speed and a/f ratio you wont really get that much out of them and can end up like you. If you don't want to mess with idle speed Tbolt Ez start CDI has a more progressive curve with 0-500rpm 10 degree 500-2000 rpm 20 degree and then max's at 38 degree past 2000 rpm.
No one asked the important question how do you advance the ignition timing
Take the four screws out of the left side cover to expose magneto remove nut retaining pull off magneto exposing woodruff key remove key then either file the top part of the keyside to offset location... you could probably just throw the key away and just use the nut to retain timing but I'm sure that's been tried
To bad the BBR stage two doesn't tell you what's off and on!!!
You have to watch a freaking video to find out what's off and on with the key!!!
No writing to tell what's off and on!!
China shit, no directions!!!
Data: Hotter spark = better combustion.