100% his method, but I've had issues with pressing beanies and I only found the information from digging on Facebook forums so I wanted to make a video to help others but with no intent on stealing credit. Skip is a huge pioneer when it comes to decorating with heat presses.
just curious - do you know if "100% Turbo Acrylic" is different than "100% Acrylic" ... Having a difficult time with beanies, as many seem to have. I have followed so many tutorials, the great advice from Skip Davis, and others like yourself that I have found ... but nothing is working. Either the patch won't adhere, or it adheres but the cap gets blown out (melts?) Leads me to wonder if "Turbo Acrylic" is different... I am using YP Classic Beanies 1500KC from S&S, so they should be suitable for use I would think.
I'm not sure about the Turbo Acrylic. It may be a marketing thing or maybe just a different method of manufacturing but acrylic should be acrylic. I can't imagine it matters a ton. As for the patches, I've noticed all adhesives are not made the same. I trust the ones from Stahls far more than other places. I've had customers provide patches that are more troublesome than others. I like to test things but once I find something that works great, I tend to stick with it. If you are using Stahls patches, then I would wonder if there's a different issue like uneven heating from the press or something else
Question? I have the temp set to 310....and I am not fully closing the plate so press is just me holding the clam shell down on my own and the 100% acrylic beanie is being crushed and pancaked...how do I stop that from happening? Should I not put any pressure when closing the lid and just hold it so it doesn't open so literally no pressure at all? How do I keep the Acrylic beanie from being crushed?
Play around with the temperature and pressure. You may not need any pressure depending on the heat transfer material. The goal is to soak the heat into the patch to activate the adhesive and have the adhesive bond to the beanie fabric. The light pressure helps the second part making sure it has contact with the beanie. Also, some acrylic beanies are better to decorate than others. I try to stay away from the really thin beanies.
I get these from Stahls' they are a fantastic resource and have a great Facebook group for heat pressing almost anything. The emblems are a bit pricey at small quantities so you may make less on orders but you are also doing much less work and only having to press them on to decorate!
I personally like the textured where it fills in larger flat areas with some texture. For ones without much empty area, I used domed like in this video. On Stahls' website, you can look at the details tab of the product and see what the differences are.
No sweat! Happy to answer any questions - the 16x20 flat heat press I have is the Stahls' Fusion IQ, I just recently got a hat heat press which is the Stahls 360 IQ. Names can be confusing, but you can find more info on their website. www.stahls.com/heat-presses-vinyl-cutters It is fairly pricy, but I got my 16x20 on Facebook used at a huge discount.
I do not. When I saw it, it was during a live video presentation. You may be able to find a recording of it somewhere. Just wanting to share because of how useful it is
@@LovesBranding I discovered after several attempts with HTV and DTF I works with DTF as you peel off the HTV it misshapes the Hat/Beanie also I use a HTVFONT press and I use the setting 390 F at 40s
@@rft1961 It might take some dialing in to get it down. Ultimately the goal is to heat it with less pressure to get the adhesive to activate and stick on without deforming the beaning. You can also let the beanie cool before pealing for less of a chance of it misshaping once it's cooled down
Hello, I am writing from Turkey. We do not have an embroidery pattern drawing video here as clearly and clearly as you. Could you please help me with this embroidery drawing or send me the link of this embroidery drawing program, thank you very much.
Absolutely! Here's the beanies on Amazon: amzn.to/3i1I0qz They are the Sportsman SP12. I purchase them wholesale which saves me a couple bucks per beanie.
These are made by Stahls! They are call the FlexStyle that they offer. You can find more about it here: www.stahls.com/heat-press-logos-emblems-flexstyle
Great explanation, total class act giving credit to Skip Davis too!
100% his method, but I've had issues with pressing beanies and I only found the information from digging on Facebook forums so I wanted to make a video to help others but with no intent on stealing credit. Skip is a huge pioneer when it comes to decorating with heat presses.
That is a game changer for my Apparel Company! Thank you!!
Super easy to apply and offer these without investing a ton into equipment!
This is a game-changing video. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
This was so helpful!!! Thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Excellent video and information thank you for sharing
So nice of you, thanks for watching!
Thanks for the tip, I wish I watched this before I distorted by beanie. Will try your suggestions next time!
Thankfully most of the time these beanies are fairly cheap. Hopefully it helps! Best of luck
Appreciate the video. How does one set the pressure in regards to printing on a beanie? @@LovesBranding
@@Ev1LAngeLXIII Most heat presses have a knob to adjust the pressure for more/less!
just curious - do you know if "100% Turbo Acrylic" is different than "100% Acrylic" ...
Having a difficult time with beanies, as many seem to have. I have followed so many tutorials, the great advice from Skip Davis, and others like yourself that I have found ... but nothing is working. Either the patch won't adhere, or it adheres but the cap gets blown out (melts?)
Leads me to wonder if "Turbo Acrylic" is different... I am using YP Classic Beanies 1500KC from S&S, so they should be suitable for use I would think.
I'm not sure about the Turbo Acrylic. It may be a marketing thing or maybe just a different method of manufacturing but acrylic should be acrylic. I can't imagine it matters a ton.
As for the patches, I've noticed all adhesives are not made the same. I trust the ones from Stahls far more than other places. I've had customers provide patches that are more troublesome than others. I like to test things but once I find something that works great, I tend to stick with it. If you are using Stahls patches, then I would wonder if there's a different issue like uneven heating from the press or something else
Definitely just tried it 💪🏾
Hope it worked out for you! No more smashed beanies 🥳
very helpful! thanks!!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Question? I have the temp set to 310....and I am not fully closing the plate so press is just me holding the clam shell down on my own and the 100% acrylic beanie is being crushed and pancaked...how do I stop that from happening? Should I not put any pressure when closing the lid and just hold it so it doesn't open so literally no pressure at all? How do I keep the Acrylic beanie from being crushed?
Play around with the temperature and pressure. You may not need any pressure depending on the heat transfer material. The goal is to soak the heat into the patch to activate the adhesive and have the adhesive bond to the beanie fabric. The light pressure helps the second part making sure it has contact with the beanie. Also, some acrylic beanies are better to decorate than others. I try to stay away from the really thin beanies.
Hello. Thank you for posting! I would like to ask if you find the need to stretch the hat (because of the ribbing) before pressing the htv?
I haven't found that you don't need to. The beanie will still stretch even if the decoration holds it tight
What company did you get those emblems from?
I get these from Stahls' they are a fantastic resource and have a great Facebook group for heat pressing almost anything.
The emblems are a bit pricey at small quantities so you may make less on orders but you are also doing much less work and only having to press them on to decorate!
Do you think a piece of a yoga mat would work if I don't have the foam piece? Or maybe the cricut heat press mat ?
It would depend on the thickness. You'd want something that transfers the heat well but gives cushioning to keep it from "crushing" the beanie.
I’m trying to purchase the flexstyle patches for my beanies. Which flexstyle product did you choose? They have like 9 options.
I personally like the textured where it fills in larger flat areas with some texture. For ones without much empty area, I used domed like in this video. On Stahls' website, you can look at the details tab of the product and see what the differences are.
Awesome video! Can you share what type of patched you used in this video?
Of course! This is the FlexStyle patch from Stahls which I like because its a solid patch with texture/dimensions so it adds to the design
Thank you so much
How thick is that foam and where to get it? Thank you
Hi, these are premade by Stahls'
Bro sorry in advance you mentioned that in your video but which heat press (i mean exact model) is this?
No sweat! Happy to answer any questions - the 16x20 flat heat press I have is the Stahls' Fusion IQ, I just recently got a hat heat press which is the Stahls 360 IQ. Names can be confusing, but you can find more info on their website. www.stahls.com/heat-presses-vinyl-cutters
It is fairly pricy, but I got my 16x20 on Facebook used at a huge discount.
What material is the logo?
I think its PVC!
Do you have the link to the skip davis video you got the technique from?
I do not. When I saw it, it was during a live video presentation. You may be able to find a recording of it somewhere. Just wanting to share because of how useful it is
Where can I purchase the Heat Press foam ?
The ones I purchased from Michaels was not heat resistant
I got mine from Stahls. Its their foam cover pads. They work great!
www.stahls.com/foam-cover-pads
@@LovesBranding I discovered after several attempts with HTV and DTF
I works with DTF as you peel off the HTV it misshapes the Hat/Beanie
also I use a HTVFONT press and I use the setting 390 F at 40s
@@rft1961 It might take some dialing in to get it down. Ultimately the goal is to heat it with less pressure to get the adhesive to activate and stick on without deforming the beaning. You can also let the beanie cool before pealing for less of a chance of it misshaping once it's cooled down
@@LovesBranding It works with DTF (Direct To Fabric) transfers
But not the regular HTV transfers even cold peel
Great vid! Can i get a link to patch maker please?
Got these made at Stahls.com!
Hello, I am writing from Turkey. We do not have an embroidery pattern drawing video here as clearly and clearly as you. Could you please help me with this embroidery drawing or send me the link of this embroidery drawing program, thank you very much.
I don't do the embroidery digitizing anymore but I would recommend Wilcom for pros or Embrilliance for the software to get started
Hi l do embroidery digitizing and l can send you the PNG files that look like embroidery.
Where could u get the foam pad from?
I bought this one from Stahls'. If you go to their website and search for "foam cover pad" it should come up!
Could you link the beanies you used, please?
Absolutely! Here's the beanies on Amazon: amzn.to/3i1I0qz
They are the Sportsman SP12. I purchase them wholesale which saves me a couple bucks per beanie.
Have you tried this out on the 360 IQ with success?
I have but it usually warps for me which is why I like this method because it keeps everything flat.
How was the logo made?
These are made by Stahls! They are call the FlexStyle that they offer. You can find more about it here:
www.stahls.com/heat-press-logos-emblems-flexstyle
Thanks 👍
DJ Khalid Voice: “Another one”
😂😂