How to PREP and PAINT a Fiberglass Hood.
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- čas přidán 16. 03. 2022
- CSN Morinville Auto Body's website and contact info can be found here:
csncollision.com/locations/mo...
I would strongly recommend checking out their Instagram to see the quality of work they do as well!
/ csnmorinville
If you want to check out the other projects that I get up to, and potentially just haven't had time to post as videos, my Instagram can be found here:
/ flyinphil
Thanks for watching! - Jak na to + styl
Great detail and work. Job well done!
I throughly enjoyed this vid mate, easy to follow tutorial, seriously nice work , keep pushing the content.
Thank you very much! Doing my best to keep doing tutorials as well as sharing my personal projects!
It’s too perfect I’d never drive it. Great work, the way everyone should do it without cutting corners
Thank you so much!
Turned out super sick man!
Thanks Cole! It takes a good deal of time to get a quality finish on parts like this, but it is well worth it.
That looks really. Very informative vid. I would love to see the hood on the truck
Unfortunately I didn’t get any videos of the hood installed on the truck! While the fitment wasn’t 100% perfect (and unfortunately there was no adjustment with this hood/hinges without a good deal of fabrication) it definitely looked good on the truck, and gave it a nice aggressive look.
Phil, you could get a job as a Tom Cruise double if you wanted! Thx for the video
Super job Phil thanks for the education.... Phil, on a Vette, what grit would I use to rough up the fiberglass for epoxy primer.. I've stripped the paint down to the fiberglass chemically and was thinking 180 grit for the epoxy coat followed by 180 grit for a 2K build primer coat, then blocking with 320 and finishing with 400... Since this is a restoration, I'm going piece by piece and the epoxy primed pieces may sit for a while.... so 2k primer will be subsequently applied over the epoxy primer at a later date to be blocked and finished off... Does this sound good... thx.. Mark
Hey Mark! Thanks for the kind words.
Your grit choice should come directly from the TDS (technical data sheet) for the products you intend to spray. Every product in this industry has slightly different prep procedures/dry times/recoat times/ etc. etc. that should be followed for a lasting finish.
That being said, your grit choices are pretty similar to most of the automotive products I have sprayed, and should be just fine! Most likely the biggest area you would run into an issue with your proposed grits would be with the final sanding before you’re ready to paint. I’ve sprayed some base coats that are perfectly happy over 400 grit, and I’ve sprayed others that will show sand scratches if you use anything more aggressive than 800. That being said, if you plan to spray a sealer before base, 400 would probably be adequate.
You're ever coming down to work in TO? I'm getting a FG hood for my Tundra. Wish I could find someone with your attention to finish my hood. You've got skills
Thanks for the kind words dude! Unfortunately I’m pretty locked down, here in Alberta.
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Nice job,Would you mind telling me what color the black and white you used is ? Looks really good together.Thanks.
Sorry for the delayed response, I didn’t get a notification for some reason! It’s been a while, but the white was Toyota 040, and it “think” I sprayed GM 8555 for the black. Any of the solid blacks from the main manufacturers (GM 8555, dodge px8 , ford UA, etc) will give an identical look.
Thanks for this, Phil. Would you do this same technique on a fiberglass canoe?
I would use a similar process, but there would be a few variables, and it would also vary by what shape the canoe is in to begin with. It would depend on how you want the finished product to look (a show piece to mount on the rafters of your cabin vs something durable for regular use). A durable polyurethane single stage paint would be great on a glass canoe, as would a fresh coat of new gel coat, though I’m not as familiar with gel coat application.
I just started working on my first car and I’ve been watching a ton of videos to help me paint and prep by body kit. I could be way off but how come you didn’t sand in between paint coats? Also how many coats of primer do you recommend?
You should never be sanding in between coats of paint. I believe this misconception was started by some youtuber with tons of followers but no actual training or certifications in this trade. The only time you would sand your base coat is to get rid of minor imperfections (dust nibs), but then you generally have to spray another coat or two of base before clear.
For a primer surfacer (high build primer) that gets sanded, I generally do 3 coats. For a primer sealer (sprayed just before base coat and doesn’t get sanded), just a single coat. Primer sealer isn’t always necessary, it will depend on the application and prep work. For example, most paint systems (axalta, ppg, Sikkens, etc) require new parts to be prepped and sprayed with a sealer before base coat. If you are painting used parts or refinishing an existing paintjob on a car, you usually don’t need a sealer, though one *can* be used.
How much do you charge for a job like this?
after clear coat application ,what did you 'polish' clear coat with..
Thank you
Hi Lorne! So I used the 3M “perfect it” polishing system in this video. It is a 3 stage system (so you have a compound, polish, and super fine polish, as well as a different pad for each stage). Keep in mind it is only necessary to polish clear if you have removed minor imperfections like dust nibs and small runs, or if you are completely sanding the job and polishing it for a perfectly flat finish.
What type of Primer and sealer are best for fiberglass?
That's going to vary depending on the product line you plan to spray. I always prefer to stick within the same product line, in this case Sikkens, from start to finish. If there was a ton of bare fibreglass, though, I would probably hit the whole thing with Slicksand first, block that, then a high build primer and block again, then finish sand for paint.
Hey so I had my bumper painted and clear coated but it shows the little holes can I just sand it down a little and recoat with clear?
What do you mean exactly by “little holes”? Do you mean rock chips?
What kind of sealant/primer did you use?
For the initial high build primer, I used Sikkens high build surfacer gray. For sealer right before paint, I used Sikkens colourbuild plus.
My question is I have a uncoated fiberglass trunk lid that I accidentally spilled brake fluid on, how should I go about correcting this before I paint? Thank you in advance
Is the glass trunk lid finished in gelcoat? and if so, was the gelcoat damaged by the brake fluid?
@@flyinphil6884 the lid does have a gel coat on it. It’s just an unfinished panel from the manufacturer. And it appears undamaged, it’s been about a year ago since I spilled the fluid on the trunk lid. Im just worried about the paint pilling off after I spray it
@@huntertimms9688 I would give it a good wash with a wax and grease remover and a water based cleaner before and after prepping it. If there is no visible damage or lifting of the gel coat, it shouldn't be an issue. If you are still concerned, though, you could sand that area a little more aggressively and prime it with a 2k high build primer and then block sand it smooth.
@@flyinphil6884 thank you!
AH - good 'common sense' tip putting that second lot of tape on the rear of the bonnet before pulling off the previous. I am a fan of always using a guide coat - not always necessary - but welcome when you discover something that has 'fooled' the eyes or hands. Anyone - is that a LANCIA bonnet? HA - I HATE the music in these sorts of videos - HA - I would rather listen to the sanding sound or even some sort of 'casual banter' - HA - becomes a pain in the arse having to use the mute button through the video. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
How much do you charge ? I have a fiberglass hood i wanna get painted also
It depends on the job and what will go into it! If you’re in the Edmonton, Alberta area, feel free to drop me a private message.
What brand of spray guns do you use?
I use Sata spray guns. They are simply what the other painter used at the shop when I got into the trade, so it’s what I learned with.
How long does it take from start to finish?
This was a few years ago, but I think I had about 20-24 hours into it.
Sigh, is it even slightly feasible to DIY paint a vehicle without dropping 11k on equipment?
If you are just painting the vehicle, and aren't doing body work, then yes. In my video where I outline the costs of doing repairs and paint at home, a huge portion of my costs are tied up in my welding machine, stud puller, and other shop tools. I also use an extremely expensive professional air filtration system, which isn't strictly necessary for painting at home. My spray guns are also not cheap, but I use them every day to make a living.
If you're painting a full vehicle, you will want at least a 60 gallon compressor. that will be your biggest expense.
At the end of the day, the cost is going to come down to the quality of tools you invest in, and the quality of materials you purchase to spray. For doing *just* a paintjob at home, you could probably spend less than $5k. However, there is a high probability you will have to respray part (or all of) the job if it doesn't come out to your expectations. I have thousands of hours of spray time under my belt, and I still get occasional hiccups in the booth that require either wet sanding and polishing to correct, or sanding and respraying part of the job.
Wait.... after sanding and before priming no wipe down ? Major major mistake in the first minutes of this video. I'm not going to continue watching. Because you will only get me angry with other mistakes... WOW !
Ah damn, I must have forgotten to film and mention that step. It was definitely done! Thanks for the positive words 👌
@@flyinphil6884what a guy^^
@@Thegcodeecan’t keep everyone happy!
@@flyinphil6884 I know that’s right, some people just aren’t worth it either.
Why were you watching to begin with if you know everything... truth is, you were here because you wanted to learn how to prep and paint a fiberglass panel. Mission accomplished.