One another reason to have the buckle on the right side. If you use a DPV, the crotch strap loop will slide back and forth on your waist strap with a good amplitude. If you have a buckle on the left, that loop can get hooked on the buckle and open it when slides back to the center. Then your gear fly around. Some people use two buckles, one is to keep your light canister in place. I've never had any issues with just one. The "rescue" arguments make no sense. If you rescue someone unconscious, you will cut off the webbing anyway.
H Mark - love the videos, thanks. Some questions for the next Q&A... 1. Do you find that the setting of the breathing effort control knob on your xtx50 makes any difference to your surface air consumption? 2. How does the Tek3 setup stack up against your xtx50/DST system? Is that a 4th MP port on the end of the Tek3 1st stage? 3. Can you lift a twinset by the tank valve manifold? (Sorry if this is a dumb question)
I've called it "ME-flex" ever since I learned that that was the company's own pronunciation. Speaking of hoses, I went with the 7 foot (2.1 meter) long hose primary to donate, after I had to share air with a dive buddy with my old traditional short hose primary and integrated octo/inflator. We were in the middle of a giant bed of giant kelp at the height of summer. With short hoses, we had no alternative to being face to face and having to ascend directly to the surface. Alas, that meant that we were on the surface in the middle of extremely tangled kelp and it took us about an hour to fight our way to the boat, only 30-40 yards away. (It was worse than normal, as we were doing scientific transect surveys and had giant slates and reels clipped onto us.) Had I been using a long hose that day, I could have shared air, sorted out my buddy and then we could have swam, single-file, back to the boat, underneath the kelp canopy and been there in a minute or two. That was the last day I used that setup. I went long hose and backplate and wing before my next dive. I've never regretted the change. Many say that there's no point to long hose donate for recreational divers because we don't dive with overheads, but I disagree. We often dive with virtual overheads, such as the aforementioned kelp canopy, or boat traffic.
I am relatively new to the sport, only a little under two years(rescue level), and never knew about the longer hoses until watching Mark's video on it. With all the anecdotal evidence presented, I know it will be my next sort of upgrade. I appreciate your story as to why you switched...great argument for doing the same.
@@dennybe Ask your instructor to teach you the proper air share procedures before using a long hose for real dives, especially if you are not trained to donate your primary.
@@complicatedmechanics9599 Of course. I always love to learn new things...and practice them before implementing them into any dive. But good reminder for sure.
I love these Q&As, My backplate just arrived(yesterday) and I was able to fit everything together(thanks for the harness video, it helped immensely)--so happy with the freedom of movement. Heading to a pool later today to work out any of the adjustments that need to be made. I'm not a little guy(fat and need a better diet) so I have put the placement of the wing at the highest connecting points to the plate in order to get proper trim. In a jacket, I needed 6kg on my weight belt and 2kg on my tank strap...I know this will change now(thus the pool). In your opinion, are you a fan of the tank strap weight placement or do you prefer to steer away from them since they can make it a little top-heavy and cause a diver to fight with rolling over?
denny be I personally put mine on my cambands. I only need 4kg in drysuit with SS backplate. So I have 4 pouches with a kg each pushed into the wing so it is as close to the backplate as possible. Keep in mind this gives me no ditchable weight. But with only 4kg on it’s not a lot anyway. I’ve always got 2 DSMBs and my drysuit to lift me if my wing fails.
@@dannyholden5361 Just an update now that I am back from doing a test run. I put 2-2kg pouches to the left and right side of my lower camband. I was going to put 2 more on my top one, but I didn't do that for the reason you mentioned, ditchable weight. So I am keeping my weight belt and will dive it with 2- 2kg weights on it. I did add an additional 2 small 1kg pouches to the weight belt just in case I need to increase the weight for some reason(my backplate is aluminum, for ease of traveling--and will get lead at the dive centers I regularly go to). I know it seems like a lot, but I got a lot of that extra buoyant blubber to contend with...and a pool isn't the same as salt. I know the more I dive it, the more comfortable I will get with its capabilities(and my own). I have moved to the Philippines and dive a lot(a lot--when we're not locked down in these quarantines). I really appreciate your input and think the camband placement will work out great for me as well. #GetWet
Hey Mark! Thanks for helping keep me focused during my WAAAAAY to long surface intervals. As a diving all-rounder I wanted to know what you thought about an experience I just had. I'll admit starting off that I'm not the most experienced diver in the world (AOWD with 32 dives in 18 months) but I'm also pretty relaxed in the water having logged dives in conditions ranging from Egypt and the Philippines to Germany's no-viz and very cold indeed lakes. So during my most recent dive day with a club in Italy I was paired with a buddy pair consisting of two very experienced tech divers and from the get go it seemed like they weren't taking me very seriously. There was very little effort made to communicate under water (no hand signals at all, air checks were done by just grabbing my gauges and yanking me over to them). But what really bothered me was when I had intentionally gone into a head up position to take a look at a particularly nice school of fish, they decided I was in a run-away ascent I guess as one grabbed my fin yanking me down while the other vented all the air out of my shoulder dump. The result was me face planting into the reef we were over. They vented or added air to my BC without asking or communicating with me two other times during the dive which made the dive all a bit stressful. I very much doubt that I’ll ever dive with that outfit again but am I missing something here? Is there a justification for that type of behavior?
All a bit much, experience doesn't make you a good Instructor... Some divers think that new divers need to be 'handled', but it doesn't make the new diver any better. You should really treat all other divers as you would any other diver and let them figure things out. If it becomes dangerous you can intervene and help but until then, just act as normal. I've had divers push my head down inside a wreck because they thought I might float up and hit the ceiling and others comment on my hose routing as if I didn't know my hose was under my arm. It's not just you, it's the condescending side of diving that we're trying to draw attention to and alleviate.
Thanks for the great content Mark! I was wondering if you could talk a little bit about the buoyancy characteristics and pros/cons of LP(182 Bar) vs HP(237 Bar) steel tanks for doubles setups. It's been recommended to me that I shouldn't look at using HP steel tanks in a doubles configuration because I'll end up having very little weight to ditch in an emergency. That being said, it sounds like some people use lift bags to be able to offset the weight in an emergency. Also I realize I won't be able to get a full HP fill everywhere, but I'm look for considerations aside from that.
Regarding SPGs and Air Integration. Probably shouldn't advise people that an SPG cannot fail, they absolutely can, not just leaks but I've witnessed two that remained stuck open, so when checking air, it was still showing 200 bar. Ultimately a failure is a failure and with NDL recreational diving the procedure for most failures is: make a slow, safe accent with your buddy, complete a safety stop if possible and end the dive. This would apply to any air pressure monitoring device. Unless a recreational diver is taking redundancy all around (and then the question would be 'why?'), then either Air Integration or SPG is fine. After all, we've long since ditched the depth gauge off our SPGs in favour of an electronic depth monitor (computer), so I see no reason not to ditch the whole SPG.
i really enjoy watching your videos and it's nice you have your own vlogs now. I have a couple of questions and i hope I can get your opinion on this.I carry 9lbs total weight for tropical diving and I am considering buying the Mares XR stainless bp.So my questions are; question #1: 3mm or 6mm? question #2what aircells(brand) compatible with it and what size?32lb or 22lb? thanks and safe diving🤙🏼
Hi Mark, loving your videos, keep up the good work! I live in Marseille in the south of France (I'm from Kent originally) and I did my Open Water back in June when we came out of lockdown. I've been diving most weekends since then and have racked up 20 or so dives now. I would like to take my education further but I need to decide which course to do. Here in France all dive centres are affiliated with the FFESSM (Fédération française des études et sports sous-marins) and do CMASqualifications alongside PADI/SSI and the like. Are there any disadvantages in doing the French level 2 (CMAS* * ) instead of an Advanced Open Water course? Some centres offer a double CMAS** and AOWD certification, is it worth spending the extra money to get doubly certified? Assuming that at some point international travel will again become a thing, I'd like to go diving in other countries in the future, including the murky waters back in blighty. Thanks again for the great content you're generating :)
How are you taking care of cleaning your regs post-dive? Throw them in the dunk tank or not? Clean them pressurised or not? Owner of shiny new regs (for the first time) and I am getting mixed opinions on the various dive forums! Cheers!
If you can, keep them pressurised so that water can't get into the regulator. Give them a good wash inside and out and soak with some disinfectant, before drying naturally. I based this video on Apeks' current guidelines: czcams.com/video/EWQqQMMaXfs/video.html
Hello Mark! I’m just about to start my advanced diving course, and finally ordered my own gear after watching your videos here and on Simply Scuba. I went for the Apeks WTX Harness, Apeks SS backplate, 40 pound wing, MTX-RC Stage 3 pack. I’m diving with a dry-suit here in Norway, so would like to hear what you think about my setup. Should I buy the 45 or 60 pound wing when moving on to doubles? Thanks for all the great videos and keep up the good work!
It depends what you need, the 45 is a pretty standard size for twins with more than enough buoyancy, the 60 is huge and made for if you're diving particularly -ve gear and diving deep where you may need the extra buoyancy. I wouldn't worry about the 60 unless you're planning some serious dives with a lot of heavy gear.
If you go into doubles, you are likely diving tec. The mentality of tec diving is redundant everything. This means redundant bladders or BCDs. You'll probably want a dual bladder wing at that stage.
Which brands do you prefer for a backplate setup? It’s fairly challenging to try different scuba gear. Is there a specific reason you use both Mares and Apeks?
Hi Mark, love the new channel. I recently upgraded from a Shadow mask to an Atomic Frameless. I really like the fit and feel, and it seems to seal fine outside of the water, but I'm having trouble with water in the nose pocket. Do you have this issue? I do have a mustache, and I have considered shaving it, but after a little research online I've found several people who have this issue without facial hair. Any thoughts?
The top lip is always trouble because you have that little groove in the middle and if you move your face a little it can let a small amount of water in. I usually have a small amount of water in my mask but it doesn't really bother me. A small amount of beard balm helps me create a better seal if you really don't like water in your mask.
Hi Mark, I have question for you: I've been diving BPW setup for the last year and I wonder why the bladders are always so large and bulky. When I'm diving, I usually only need a tiny bit of air in the wing in order to be neutrally buoyant. If you are properly weighted, shouldn't that be the case for most divers? Seems like a big waste of space. Is this a requirement for deeper dives that a lowly rec diver is not aware of? The only reason I could think of was to keep you buoyant at the surface but even then, I usually only inflate my wing to maybe half capacity when at the surface. I weigh some 90kg's so I'm not light by any means either.
have you looked at the bladder's lift capacity? there are several sizes, from small bladders for single tank shallow dives to huge ones for double tanks deep dives...
Is it an 18, a 30, or a 50lb lift bladder? I just put a 30lb on my backplate and it is not at all bulky(only barely goes around the perimeter of my plate). I've been told, but have no experience personally, that the 50lb ones are mainly for twin setups. I'm fat!!!135kg, and have positive buoyancy and need more weight than most...so when I'm down, it is a rare thing for me to inflate(in a jacket) even for trim purposes. I just assembled my BPW(30lb donut...not the 'U-shape') and am testing it today in the pool for the first time...but go back to my original comment, it is not big and/or bulky. I'm curious what size yours is and if it is a donut or u-shape. Oh, and I understand this comment is in no way helpful. Just trying to gain an understanding and have a conversation about it.
Safe Diving Kinda dumb, your videos, I imagine, drew in a lot of retail business. You and the videos kept the “Simply Scuba” name in divers forethought when it comes to purchasing scuba kit. Oh well, keep up the good work, you give a lot of good information and insight. I know it’s a pain in the booty, but keep the camera rolling when you go on your dive trips. Get the camera wet for us. LOL
I'm looking for a drysuit and I really like Apeks products in general. Would you recommend the KVR1 or is there a better option for the same price range? Waterproof also seem to make good ones.
I dive the waterproof D1XH. Had it about a year and it’s a great bit of kit. Took a few dives to get use to it as had a neoprene on before and the feel of the gas inside was a little strange but well worth the move to a tri lam. The silicon seals are great and dry gloves for the winter can’t be beaten.
If my current drysuit was knackered, the KVR1 would probably be the suit that I'd switch to. The freedom of movement is amazing. I think there's a KVR2 in the pipeline, but don't know when it's due or how it will differ... Waterproof suits are always great too, more traditional designs, but they're tough.
I call it My-Flex. Just because that is how the name looks like it should be pronounced. Me-Flex just sounds wrong. But then, I’ve never heard it pronounced Me-Flex before this video. 😉
Yeah, Nitrox regs are for gas mixes of 40% O2 and above. A lot of the O-Rings and greases that we use on regular regs degrade with oxygen and tiny imperfections can even cause combustion in rare situations.
The name debate of the Octo / alternative air source / safe second annoys me so much more than it should! Octo/octopus is a stupid name, completely irrelevant, and therefore shouldn't be used. Plus it sounds childish. Safe second? What if it isn't safe? What if it fails? Calling it a safe second could physiologically provide too much of a comfort blanket and result in complacency regarding pre dive checks and maintenance. Alternative air source - does exactly what it says on the tin. The obvious choice.
I've just thought, maybe shouldn't call it the alternate air source, as the reg might not be supplying air! This is a minefield! It'll have to be alternate or back up.
@@clarkeysam what about /gas source/? but what if it's supplying mud or silt lol, it's probably an unsafe second stage. The yellow color is used to mark hazards.
Tank boots are for POOL USE ONLY! They exist to protect the lining of pools so the tank doesn’t damage it. It is absolutely retarded to dive with them otherwise, and dive centers and individuals who keep boots on tanks for open ocean diving are idiots. They do nothing but create a space for rust to form, and you shouldn’t be leaving your tanks standing up regardless.
aha It's you the guy from Simply Scuba. You creadted your own channel? Well done, you are funny guy, sharing experience and providing informations. Unsubscribe Simply Scuba, sunscribe Safe Diving. But change logo please
One another reason to have the buckle on the right side.
If you use a DPV, the crotch strap loop will slide back and forth on your waist strap with a good amplitude. If you have a buckle on the left, that loop can get hooked on the buckle and open it when slides back to the center. Then your gear fly around.
Some people use two buckles, one is to keep your light canister in place. I've never had any issues with just one.
The "rescue" arguments make no sense. If you rescue someone unconscious, you will cut off the webbing anyway.
british nerdiness at its best... love it!
H Mark - love the videos, thanks.
Some questions for the next Q&A...
1. Do you find that the setting of the breathing effort control knob on your xtx50 makes any difference to your surface air consumption?
2. How does the Tek3 setup stack up against your xtx50/DST system? Is that a 4th MP port on the end of the Tek3 1st stage?
3. Can you lift a twinset by the tank valve manifold? (Sorry if this is a dumb question)
I've called it "ME-flex" ever since I learned that that was the company's own pronunciation.
Speaking of hoses, I went with the 7 foot (2.1 meter) long hose primary to donate, after I had to share air with a dive buddy with my old traditional short hose primary and integrated octo/inflator. We were in the middle of a giant bed of giant kelp at the height of summer. With short hoses, we had no alternative to being face to face and having to ascend directly to the surface. Alas, that meant that we were on the surface in the middle of extremely tangled kelp and it took us about an hour to fight our way to the boat, only 30-40 yards away. (It was worse than normal, as we were doing scientific transect surveys and had giant slates and reels clipped onto us.)
Had I been using a long hose that day, I could have shared air, sorted out my buddy and then we could have swam, single-file, back to the boat, underneath the kelp canopy and been there in a minute or two. That was the last day I used that setup. I went long hose and backplate and wing before my next dive. I've never regretted the change.
Many say that there's no point to long hose donate for recreational divers because we don't dive with overheads, but I disagree. We often dive with virtual overheads, such as the aforementioned kelp canopy, or boat traffic.
I am relatively new to the sport, only a little under two years(rescue level), and never knew about the longer hoses until watching Mark's video on it. With all the anecdotal evidence presented, I know it will be my next sort of upgrade. I appreciate your story as to why you switched...great argument for doing the same.
Oof, I rock the 7ft too
With an octo tied to my neck on a 29"
@@dennybe Ask your instructor to teach you the proper air share procedures before using a long hose for real dives, especially if you are not trained to donate your primary.
@@complicatedmechanics9599 Of course. I always love to learn new things...and practice them before implementing them into any dive. But good reminder for sure.
Can you please show us what’s in your save-a-dive kit, I’d like to build my own beyond the standard part kit you can get online.
31:11 Well played! 😂
Didn't want to go back and re-shoot everything...
Nice one mate delighted to see you have your own channel. Subbed
Thnxs fot the reaction to my question, now i know what they mean. Loved your video(s) again.....keep it up and great loosing the music!
I love these Q&As, My backplate just arrived(yesterday) and I was able to fit everything together(thanks for the harness video, it helped immensely)--so happy with the freedom of movement. Heading to a pool later today to work out any of the adjustments that need to be made. I'm not a little guy(fat and need a better diet) so I have put the placement of the wing at the highest connecting points to the plate in order to get proper trim. In a jacket, I needed 6kg on my weight belt and 2kg on my tank strap...I know this will change now(thus the pool). In your opinion, are you a fan of the tank strap weight placement or do you prefer to steer away from them since they can make it a little top-heavy and cause a diver to fight with rolling over?
denny be I personally put mine on my cambands. I only need 4kg in drysuit with SS backplate. So I have 4 pouches with a kg each pushed into the wing so it is as close to the backplate as possible.
Keep in mind this gives me no ditchable weight. But with only 4kg on it’s not a lot anyway. I’ve always got 2 DSMBs and my drysuit to lift me if my wing fails.
@@dannyholden5361 Just an update now that I am back from doing a test run. I put 2-2kg pouches to the left and right side of my lower camband. I was going to put 2 more on my top one, but I didn't do that for the reason you mentioned, ditchable weight. So I am keeping my weight belt and will dive it with 2- 2kg weights on it. I did add an additional 2 small 1kg pouches to the weight belt just in case I need to increase the weight for some reason(my backplate is aluminum, for ease of traveling--and will get lead at the dive centers I regularly go to). I know it seems like a lot, but I got a lot of that extra buoyant blubber to contend with...and a pool isn't the same as salt.
I know the more I dive it, the more comfortable I will get with its capabilities(and my own). I have moved to the Philippines and dive a lot(a lot--when we're not locked down in these quarantines). I really appreciate your input and think the camband placement will work out great for me as well.
#GetWet
Btw Perdix has 3 modes: rec, tech - as you said - and als ccr mode i.e constant PO2 deco mode.
Hey Mark! Thanks for helping keep me focused during my WAAAAAY to long surface intervals. As a diving all-rounder I wanted to know what you thought about an experience I just had. I'll admit starting off that I'm not the most experienced diver in the world (AOWD with 32 dives in 18 months) but I'm also pretty relaxed in the water having logged dives in conditions ranging from Egypt and the Philippines to Germany's no-viz and very cold indeed lakes. So during my most recent dive day with a club in Italy I was paired with a buddy pair consisting of two very experienced tech divers and from the get go it seemed like they weren't taking me very seriously. There was very little effort made to communicate under water (no hand signals at all, air checks were done by just grabbing my gauges and yanking me over to them). But what really bothered me was when I had intentionally gone into a head up position to take a look at a particularly nice school of fish, they decided I was in a run-away ascent I guess as one grabbed my fin yanking me down while the other vented all the air out of my shoulder dump. The result was me face planting into the reef we were over. They vented or added air to my BC without asking or communicating with me two other times during the dive which made the dive all a bit stressful. I very much doubt that I’ll ever dive with that outfit again but am I missing something here? Is there a justification for that type of behavior?
All a bit much, experience doesn't make you a good Instructor...
Some divers think that new divers need to be 'handled', but it doesn't make the new diver any better. You should really treat all other divers as you would any other diver and let them figure things out. If it becomes dangerous you can intervene and help but until then, just act as normal.
I've had divers push my head down inside a wreck because they thought I might float up and hit the ceiling and others comment on my hose routing as if I didn't know my hose was under my arm.
It's not just you, it's the condescending side of diving that we're trying to draw attention to and alleviate.
Thanks for the great content Mark! I was wondering if you could talk a little bit about the buoyancy characteristics and pros/cons of LP(182 Bar) vs HP(237 Bar) steel tanks for doubles setups. It's been recommended to me that I shouldn't look at using HP steel tanks in a doubles configuration because I'll end up having very little weight to ditch in an emergency. That being said, it sounds like some people use lift bags to be able to offset the weight in an emergency. Also I realize I won't be able to get a full HP fill everywhere, but I'm look for considerations aside from that.
Regarding SPGs and Air Integration. Probably shouldn't advise people that an SPG cannot fail, they absolutely can, not just leaks but I've witnessed two that remained stuck open, so when checking air, it was still showing 200 bar.
Ultimately a failure is a failure and with NDL recreational diving the procedure for most failures is: make a slow, safe accent with your buddy, complete a safety stop if possible and end the dive. This would apply to any air pressure monitoring device.
Unless a recreational diver is taking redundancy all around (and then the question would be 'why?'), then either Air Integration or SPG is fine. After all, we've long since ditched the depth gauge off our SPGs in favour of an electronic depth monitor (computer), so I see no reason not to ditch the whole SPG.
i really enjoy watching your videos and it's nice you have your own vlogs now.
I have a couple of questions and i hope I can get your opinion on this.I carry 9lbs total weight for tropical diving and I am considering buying the Mares XR stainless bp.So my questions are;
question #1: 3mm or 6mm?
question #2what aircells(brand) compatible with it and what size?32lb or 22lb?
thanks and safe diving🤙🏼
I’ve always called it My-flex, interesting to hear they call it me-flex
as Miflex is an Italian company than why not to pronounce it as Italians would do? (me- not my-)
maybe just a intern picking up the phone lol
Hi Mark, loving your videos, keep up the good work! I live in Marseille in the south of France (I'm from Kent originally) and I did my Open Water back in June when we came out of lockdown. I've been diving most weekends since then and have racked up 20 or so dives now. I would like to take my education further but I need to decide which course to do. Here in France all dive centres are affiliated with the FFESSM (Fédération française des études et sports sous-marins) and do CMASqualifications alongside PADI/SSI and the like. Are there any disadvantages in doing the French level 2 (CMAS* * ) instead of an Advanced Open Water course? Some centres offer a double CMAS** and AOWD certification, is it worth spending the extra money to get doubly certified? Assuming that at some point international travel will again become a thing, I'd like to go diving in other countries in the future, including the murky waters back in blighty. Thanks again for the great content you're generating :)
How are you taking care of cleaning your regs post-dive? Throw them in the dunk tank or not? Clean them pressurised or not? Owner of shiny new regs (for the first time) and I am getting mixed opinions on the various dive forums! Cheers!
If you can, keep them pressurised so that water can't get into the regulator. Give them a good wash inside and out and soak with some disinfectant, before drying naturally.
I based this video on Apeks' current guidelines: czcams.com/video/EWQqQMMaXfs/video.html
A question I have seen steel tanks that are hot dipped galvanized and painted ones whats the difference is hot dipped worth the higher price
Hello Mark! I’m just about to start my advanced diving course, and finally ordered my own gear after watching your videos here and on Simply Scuba. I went for the Apeks WTX Harness, Apeks SS backplate, 40 pound wing, MTX-RC Stage 3 pack. I’m diving with a dry-suit here in Norway, so would like to hear what you think about my setup. Should I buy the 45 or 60 pound wing when moving on to doubles? Thanks for all the great videos and keep up the good work!
It depends what you need, the 45 is a pretty standard size for twins with more than enough buoyancy, the 60 is huge and made for if you're diving particularly -ve gear and diving deep where you may need the extra buoyancy.
I wouldn't worry about the 60 unless you're planning some serious dives with a lot of heavy gear.
If you go into doubles, you are likely diving tec. The mentality of tec diving is redundant everything. This means redundant bladders or BCDs. You'll probably want a dual bladder wing at that stage.
Which brands do you prefer for a backplate setup? It’s fairly challenging to try different scuba gear. Is there a specific reason you use both Mares and Apeks?
Hi Mark, love the new channel.
I recently upgraded from a Shadow mask to an Atomic Frameless. I really like the fit and feel, and it seems to seal fine outside of the water, but I'm having trouble with water in the nose pocket. Do you have this issue? I do have a mustache, and I have considered shaving it, but after a little research online I've found several people who have this issue without facial hair. Any thoughts?
The top lip is always trouble because you have that little groove in the middle and if you move your face a little it can let a small amount of water in.
I usually have a small amount of water in my mask but it doesn't really bother me. A small amount of beard balm helps me create a better seal if you really don't like water in your mask.
Hi Mark, I have question for you: I've been diving BPW setup for the last year and I wonder why the bladders are always so large and bulky. When I'm diving, I usually only need a tiny bit of air in the wing in order to be neutrally buoyant. If you are properly weighted, shouldn't that be the case for most divers? Seems like a big waste of space. Is this a requirement for deeper dives that a lowly rec diver is not aware of? The only reason I could think of was to keep you buoyant at the surface but even then, I usually only inflate my wing to maybe half capacity when at the surface. I weigh some 90kg's so I'm not light by any means either.
have you looked at the bladder's lift capacity? there are several sizes, from small bladders for single tank shallow dives to huge ones for double tanks deep dives...
Is it an 18, a 30, or a 50lb lift bladder?
I just put a 30lb on my backplate and it is not at all bulky(only barely goes around the perimeter of my plate). I've been told, but have no experience personally, that the 50lb ones are mainly for twin setups.
I'm fat!!!135kg, and have positive buoyancy and need more weight than most...so when I'm down, it is a rare thing for me to inflate(in a jacket) even for trim purposes. I just assembled my BPW(30lb donut...not the 'U-shape') and am testing it today in the pool for the first time...but go back to my original comment, it is not big and/or bulky.
I'm curious what size yours is and if it is a donut or u-shape.
Oh, and I understand this comment is in no way helpful. Just trying to gain an understanding and have a conversation about it.
@@casvanommeslaeghe it's a 10kg wing for a single tank, it's pretty obvious when it's a doubles wing, you get that taco look.
Mark, are you still doing video’s with Simply Scuba?
No, I don't think they're up to producing videos anymore. There were talks about me taking over the channel but that didn't really go anywhere...
Safe Diving Kinda dumb, your videos, I imagine, drew in a lot of retail business. You and the videos kept the “Simply Scuba” name in divers forethought when it comes to purchasing scuba kit. Oh well, keep up the good work, you give a lot of good information and insight. I know it’s a pain in the booty, but keep the camera rolling when you go on your dive trips. Get the camera wet for us. LOL
I'm looking for a drysuit and I really like Apeks products in general. Would you recommend the KVR1 or is there a better option for the same price range? Waterproof also seem to make good ones.
I dive the waterproof D1XH. Had it about a year and it’s a great bit of kit. Took a few dives to get use to it as had a neoprene on before and the feel of the gas inside was a little strange but well worth the move to a tri lam. The silicon seals are great and dry gloves for the winter can’t be beaten.
If my current drysuit was knackered, the KVR1 would probably be the suit that I'd switch to. The freedom of movement is amazing.
I think there's a KVR2 in the pipeline, but don't know when it's due or how it will differ...
Waterproof suits are always great too, more traditional designs, but they're tough.
@@SafeDiving Thank you!
I call it My-Flex. Just because that is how the name looks like it should be pronounced. Me-Flex just sounds wrong. But then, I’ve never heard it pronounced Me-Flex before this video. 😉
Think of it as Italian and it makes it a bit easier...
A-lume-min-um, alu-mini-um, me-flex, my-flex, poe-ta-toe, poe-tat-o all the same lol
Hi, regards from Mexico!! why are there specific Nitrox apex products?, can´t i use the regular regulator for nitrox in case it is avlieable.. ??
Yeah, Nitrox regs are for gas mixes of 40% O2 and above.
A lot of the O-Rings and greases that we use on regular regs degrade with oxygen and tiny imperfections can even cause combustion in rare situations.
The name debate of the Octo / alternative air source / safe second annoys me so much more than it should!
Octo/octopus is a stupid name, completely irrelevant, and therefore shouldn't be used. Plus it sounds childish.
Safe second? What if it isn't safe? What if it fails? Calling it a safe second could physiologically provide too much of a comfort blanket and result in complacency regarding pre dive checks and maintenance.
Alternative air source - does exactly what it says on the tin. The obvious choice.
We need more names. I call it a backup, or secondary regulator / 2nd stage.
Anzelm Bakker More names? Backup reg? Buddy reg? George? 😉
I've just thought, maybe shouldn't call it the alternate air source, as the reg might not be supplying air! This is a minefield! It'll have to be alternate or back up.
@@clarkeysam what about /gas source/? but what if it's supplying mud or silt lol, it's probably an unsafe second stage. The yellow color is used to mark hazards.
@@complicatedmechanics9599 we can't win!
Tank boots are for POOL USE ONLY! They exist to protect the lining of pools so the tank doesn’t damage it. It is absolutely retarded to dive with them otherwise, and dive centers and individuals who keep boots on tanks for open ocean diving are idiots. They do nothing but create a space for rust to form, and you shouldn’t be leaving your tanks standing up regardless.
aha It's you the guy from Simply Scuba. You creadted your own channel? Well done, you are funny guy, sharing experience and providing informations. Unsubscribe Simply Scuba, sunscribe Safe Diving. But change logo please