Substitute G-Wire for C-Wire -- Install the Honeywell Wi-Fi smart thermostat with this video.
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- čas přidán 7. 04. 2013
- Watch this video if you do not have a C-wire or an extra wire in your bundle. This video demonstrates an alternative option to power your Honeywell Wi-Fi smart thermostat.
I cannot believe this worked!!! Fingers crossed it continues to work.
This was very helpful your video was very easy to follow through
THIS MIGHT HELP SOME OF YOU. To all who DO NOT have a C-Wire and do not have a "Common" on the circuit board:
The "R" Wire is 24 volt power (HOT) coming from the transformer from inside your unit. The "C" wire is 24 volt (NEUTRAL). These two wires are needed for newer thermostat to turn on due to backlighting and other fancy features that require power. My issue was that I did NOT have the C/(Neutral) wire. Because of this, my wifi thermostat did not turn on. So since I had a spare blue cable in the bunch that was not doing anything, I hooked one end to my "C" on the thermostat and the other end to a ground wire that goes back to the main breakers. Once you have that circuit routed, everything should turn on. And I am NOT a license HVAC or Electrician. Do this at your own risk. :P...Hope this helps.
On my Lennox G20 furnace I have a "T" and not "C" terminal. I am doing the G wire workaround - but no A/C fan (compressor runs). Would like to try your fix, anyone else have experience with the T and not C on the circuit board?
Thanks so much for this. This was my exact issue and your detailed instructions got me all up and running.
Yo, this was perfect for me
@@dwa375 T is for an outdoor temp sensor.
This will work, but it is a code violation, since you have now bonded a neutral to ground after the first disconnect. In short, ground paths should never carry current under normal operation. You have now energized the entire grounding path, potentially including your water and gas pipes.
Very helpful, the box though should mention the C-wire on the front of the box in big letters instead of fine print on the back!
Thanks to this video because I successfully did it by myself. I must admit, I was dead scared for fear of blowing my new AC and Furnace. The techs who changed my Central AC and Furnace told me to call an electrician to connect to the C-wire in order for me to use my new Smart Thermostat. It saved me between $150 to $250 . I thank you very much!
Muchas gracias bien esplicado el mejor video
Thank you. Working!
Using the G wire as the C wire is a TERRIBLE idea!! I added a Honeywell RTH6580WF to my home recently. I discovered no c wire. Without knowing what all it involved, I found the blue wire tucked into the wire bundle as it had been cut off since not in use. I stripped it and applied it to my thermostat. Still no power. I then went down to my furnace to see the blue wire was not hooked up either it was just wrapped around the same wire bundle going to the thermostat. I stripped it and hooked it to the C terminal on the furnace. Now the C terminal had a white and brown already attached going to the AC. But you can hook more wires to the C. You can hook the 3 right into the terminal or you can bundle them together with a 4 wire called a pigtail then you only have one single wire hooked to the C terminal. User preference. So don't just assume because you found the blue wire in your wall or wire bundle behind your thermostat that its connected to the C terminal in your furnace. You will be best to take the panel off your furnace , find if a C wire is connected and determine the color while making sure it's the wire bundle going to the thermostat.
Good looking !
very helpful! thank you!
This worked like a charm for me, thank you very much!
DO NOT SUBSTITUTE A G WIRE FOR C WIRE! THEY ARE 2 DIFFERENT WIRES FOR 2 DIFFERENT PURPOSES! YOU CAN NOT DO THIS! IT can cause a fire or short out your electrical system!
Ro Du Ro Du Du is an idiot. This will NOT cause a fire nor short out your electrical system. You're a moron.
MG64 actually it will cause a fire. It can cause a short circuit and ignite the wiring shield. All it takes is a spark.
Ro Du, you are wrong. It's that simple. You are wrong.
no I'm not if you believe crossing wires is the correct way to do anything you are wrong! These wires contain voltage crossing them can and general will cause a short. you can not do this it will also damage your heating/cooling systems. you are wrong MG64 VERY wrong. I do this for a living. If you wire it this way it will cost you either a new AC system or your home from a fire.
I have a dual system with two thermostats, one for each floor. I followed the instructions but there is a C wire in the heating system but not in either of the old thermostats. Do I still move the G over and attach along with the existing C wire?
Very good
THANKS. my have an extra Blue wire. So I used as C wire . Just connect THAT BLUE to both, at Thermostat and at heater control box
Muchas gracias por ested video el mejor bien explicado vi muchos pero con ested entendí en la primera vez gracias
By jumpering G and Y, the blower will be ON whenever the compressor is ON, but will the fan blows the same way when the heater is ON?
It should!, the heat wire is jumpered on the back of the control board so it doesn’t catch fire
It can work if cooling or heating but when you need at same time system OFF and only Fan running, nothing happen because green in fan relay no receive volts 24 volts
What if i also dont have a Y wire? Can i short the g with something else?
This disables the ability to use a Fan independently. Does the C-Wire Adapter basically do this same thing or does it have something (like a battery) to allow it to run the fan independently?
I know this isn't relevant but the lady's voice in this video sounds a lot like the helpdesk lady from Ratchet & Clank 2
THanks for you Tutorial .... I no have C but I don't have heat in my a/c I in florida no need can you please help me ?
I've been an HVAC tech for 23 years and I had to do this in my parents old house. It will only work on a gas or oil furnace. If you have a heat pump or an electric furnace it won't work.
Hi Steve about in a/c unit w/no heat? Thanks
Steven Hylton I
No heat? Call the tech
Steven Hylton will you need to change the blower speed on the control board ?
My furnace is electric and I found in the wall an extra blue cable (which has never been used). Now that I need it, I connected it to the C option but it won't power the thermostat. Any ideas why? Thank you.
What could go wrong with the building code?
But now, you cannot make your Fan run independently. Your system has to be on Heat Mode, so it doesn't work if you have a bi energy. (Electrical and Wood stove)
If you move the G wire from the "G" wire terminal on the air handler, to the "C" wire terminal, and then use the G wire to connect to the thermostat "C" connector, you have done nothing but repurpose the use of the "G" wire itself. It then becomes the "C" wire (even though the insulation may be green)
Doing so will NOT create a fire! RO DU is misunderstanding the instructions!
Removing the "G" wire from the "G" terminal as suggested, only removes functionality to the operation of the fan in manual mode.
Even easier is to just replace the 4 wire bundle with a 5 wire bundle and then use all the wires where they should be used. This will NOT create a fire situation either.
Honeywell even give you the jumper in the box.
Where the hell does the jumper wire go?? I'm having the hardest time installing wifi honeywell from basic honeywell therm. I dont know what I'm doing wrong.
@@tonioviedo5472 Were you able to figure it out?
Did you use the jumper wire to connect the G terminal to C terminal?
Now how do you get the wires out of the terminals?
Why do you instruct us to jumper the Y terminal to the G terminal in the furnace. Isn’t the fan operation and speed controlled by the furnace control board when the G override line is not active?
Some newer furnace requires separate control of Y and G. Older unit Y would control both cooling and fan.
I don't have a C wire. My furnace's C terminal already has a wire (white) in it though??? I did not, however, find any additional wires in my wall, but the white wire on my old thermostat is in the white terminal. I'm lost..... I thought I would surprise my husband by doing this myself, but I don't think at this point it's going to happen 😳
LOL. That white wire is going out to the condenser, not your thermostat.
The video failed to tell you to turn off the POWER before proceeding...
The instructions didn't.
I’m thinking that’s common knowledge.
Joe Smith ha ha
You should remove the “g” tag off the green wire because it is no longer g but “c” and mark it “c”
I followed these instructions and thought everything was great until I noticed a few days later that my condenser now runs non-stop. What am I missing?
Sean Conr
Did you figure it out?
Is there a way to enable the fan to run separately when not heating/cooling? I need to circulate air when running an HRV.
not if you move the G wire to C..
Doesn't a heat pump system ALSO blow hot or cold air out of vents inside your home?? If you have electric only (no gas) AND one big unit that sits atop the roof and does everything AND heat blows warm air and AC blows cool air out indoor vents, then what kind of system is that?
In your case you do NOT want to do as this video suggest. Run a new 18/5 wire from your furnace to your thermostat and fix it that way.
@@robert5 Thanks, I installed 10 of them in 10 different properties since my last post above. They are all heat pump units and it turned out all had a C-wire but some were not connected (or were capped off) on one or both ends. I have learned A LOT about thermostat connections!
@@SWLinPHX please HELPPP I’ve been looking for a way to fix mine and I have a heat pump and an ac unit outside so im so confused and have no idea how to get the wifi thermostat working because of my wiring being absolutely crazy! I have 5 wires and I’m beginning to think that the blue wire isn’t hooked up or that it goes to something else on the furnace unit.
Don't do this, there is a better way, that keeps all of your 'stats functions.
Find that unused blue (or black) wire deeper in the wall by gently pulling out the cable. Clean that wire and insert it into the "C" spot. Go to the furnace/AC.
Start with the yellow wire in the cable from the thermostat, which is connected to the red wire in the cable going to the condenser. Since that wire is clearly Y, the other wire in the cable going to the condenser (the white wire, since it's a two-wire cable) must be your C wire, and you can connect the blue wire in the thermostat cable there (after turning the power to the furnace off and stripping the wire end back, of course).
Thank you, so much, for posting this. I was really apprehensive of the suggested fix from Honeywell- this was quick, easy, and relatively painless. You rock, Capt. !
@@theapplebyfamily2 My pleasure! I'm just glad it helped someone.
@@Capt_Killingfield If only my wires had those lovely little 'hidden wires' in the bundle :(
@@kempkennedy3542 There's no 'extra' wires in the bundle at all? Only the exact number of wires used to plug into your thermostat?
@@Capt_Killingfield Sadly that is correct. Very disappointing. I think I found a solution for my Honeywell system though. They make an adaptor. You plug in the 4 wires at the HVAC into the adaptor and it splits to 5. Crossing my fingers!
I have an old Mercury Thermostat with individual wires labeled W-Y-O-B-G-R, this Honeywell RTH9580 WIFI thermostat control board has the W-0/B on the same terminal. How should I wire this?
do you have a forces air furnace with air conditioning?
FIVEOFEVER , i do have the one you stated above. Can you tell me more?
This video helps a lot. However, when I follow my "G" wire to the heater's terminal board, it goes to a terminal marked "CG." Do I still need to move it to the "C" terminal. Also, I do have an extra wire (its blue). Can I just do as instructed and run it from C to C and be done? The CG terminal thing has me a little confused.
Bob Smith use the blue wire for your common don't touch the green.
IMHO, the CG wire can be used as a common wire. But you may lose manual control of the fan.
What did you end up doing?
If you move G to C on both ther thermostat and furnace board, can you still connect the air conditioning wire (white) to the C terminal at the furnace board? I'm hesitant to hook it up because I don't want to fry the thermostat...but right now my AC is not hooked up and its starting to get warm!!!
yes hook up both of the wires to c.
hi. so you are saying therm c to furnace c and ac c (white) to furnace c? thanx
At 3:55, it says to run a jumper wire from the Y terminal to the G terminal (after moving the G wire from the G terminal to the C terminal). What if I don't have a Y wire to jump from the Y terminal to the G terminal? My furnace initially only had G, R, and W wires to the respective terminals. My furnace is a York Affinity 9 C series.
then jump the G terminal (fan) with W terminal (heating).
2:55 Since the smart thermostat's G terminal is no longer connected, this video says that whenever the AC (Y) or Heat (W-O/B) is powered/switched on by the smart thermostat, the fan/blower will automatically come on too...
Is it jumpered at the air handler?
As soon as I plugged in the new thermostat, it started blinking on and off with the Honeywell logo. I will have to put in old thermostat until new one can be figured out. I substituted the G-Wire for the C-Wire. Any thoughts from the forum here
did you also change to connection of the terminal by the furnace?
I know its been 3yrs but did you ever get it working?...and what needed done? just bought this and did the same thing yours did with the blinking logo....HELP!!
@@dalehall2993 having the same problem. Did you ever find a fix? Have it connected properly in the control panel as well as behind the thermostat.
Is there any reason the G wire, cannot simply be jumpered to the C position? That would seem to supply the needed voltage to both terminals, right? Or would this create a short?
you will cause a short on the fan relay don't do it
Did you try it?
Did it work?
Seems like it should have worked...
@@Dave--FkTheDeepstate I did not try it. I called my HVAC person to connect the needed wire.
The specific reason it won't work depends on where the G wire is landed on the control board at the air handler. If it's connected to G, the thermostat won't work, because it has no path to neutral.
On the other hand, if it's connected to the C terminal at the air handler, then your thermostat will work until the first time it calls for fan, when it'll short and blow the 3A or 5A fuse on the air handler's control panel, because you'll have essentially touched hot to neutral. I.e., you'll have given the current a near-zero-resistance path to ground.
@@ncooty Good information. Thank you. I have since moved from that house and have two smart zigbee thermostats and two virtual now (via Home Assistant), Both with C wire intact. Working perfectly.
I live in an apartment and don't have a C wire. I do have a G wire but my system is not oil, propane or gas. I am pretty sure it is an electric heater. Can I still use this method?
I have an electric furnace, and I was able to use this method.
DO NOT SUBSTITUTE A G WIRE FOR C WIRE! THEY ARE 2 DIFFERENT WIRES FOR 2 DIFFERENT PURPOSES! YOU CAN NOT DO THIS! IT can cause a fire or short out your electrical system!
How to hook up 2 wire thermostat
@@FMG1964 I believe you're the one that got both wrong, the video and the previous comment. They both state that this technique only should work with furnaces that work with Oil, propane or gas. NOT ELECTRIC FURNACES.
I opened my furnace panel and I couldn't find terminals that looked like it did in the video. I seen some on the humidifier but not in the furnace panel.
Marshall CHS look closer for the 4-5 wire bundle/panel. It’s there on the board.
what is you install a jumper between the C and G connector and install the G wire to the C connector....will you still be able to run the fan without the system running????
HelloWhen you jump C and G, It is doing short circuit in coil of fan relay, so when Thermostat close their internal switch it can burn the transformer or respective fuse or cause damage in thermostat. No run fan
Um... I followed these instructions and when it came time to turn on my central AC unit, the fan failed, just as someone stated below. Then, the HVAC people rebuilt it and then the fan didn't shut off. They are now here again and don't understand the wiring of this device. They are putting back an old fashioned thermostat which is really upsetting because I really need the wifi feature of this thermostat.
If your HVAC guys don't understand this then you got the wrong HVAC guys, these guys should be able to wire the new thermostat for you in their sleep. Call another company and tell them what you want done you will want to specify the company send out an experienced tech. If they even give you the slightest argument about that say no thanks and hang up and call some one else.
I think the present company just hired some fresh outa school guys who have ZERO experience and thus really don't know what they are doing. Just had that happen to me. Called what I thought was the right experienced local guy and he sends out two high school looking kids to fix my system. Well it got fixed but these kids really did not know much. The speculated about the problem, put in more refrigerant and that was about it.
I have simple A/C no Gas heat and only 4 cable no C what I need to do?
Not helpful my hvac system started doing some weird electrical buzz and I disconnected immediately
I needed the jumper. No fan with out it.
I hooked it all up and now no power on the screen and the furience light is just a steady heartbeat and a humming sound please need help cant find right answer
What if the jumper is between RC and RH?
Same thing. RH and R are the same connection. It's explained in the directions.
might as well just pull new wire...
3:36 Can I just skip this part -- moving the G-wire at the air handler, from the G terminal to the C terminal ?
My multi-meter shows 27V with the R & G wires at the Smart Thermostat (while heat pump & air handler is Not running).
So when the G wire is connected to the C (common) terminal at the Smart Thermostat, it should provide constant power to Smart Thermostat.
4:42 The G terminal isn't connected to anything at the Smart Thermostat.
PS - my heat pump provides heating and cooling.
The G jumper is ironic, you got to correct this video
Tried to install this on my furnace. NO C wire on the old thermostat. Was going to move the green wire from G to C on the furnace NO &^&**%* C terminal on the furnace, only a T. Not sure what this thermostat works on. My wife bought this thermostat. I am not sure why she thinks the Russians should be able to control the temperature of our house.
If you have a wood stove, you will want that G wire to run the fan only
I had this problem so I just bought enough 18/5 wire and ran it from the furnace to the thermostat and fixed it that way. You could also just buy 18/2 wire, it is a lot cheaper, run that from your furnace to you thermostat and connect one of those wires to your C terminal on your furnace and your thermostat and that will fix the issue while still allowing the fan only setting to work.
All fun, games and CZcams until you don’t have a board on your furnace
Why call it a "c" wire? Isn't it really a neutral?
Common for the 2 transformer
Did not work.
No the fan does not come on. The AC comes on but NOT the fan.
How about a free exchange for a 4 wire system. Guess nobody at Honeywell has any common logic. They think EVERYONE has a 5 wire system. Mine is ONLY 4!!! This does NOT work on a heat exchanger!!!
Same issue here....
There is no such thing as a 4 wire system for a wifi/always on (no batteries) display. The C wire is used to power the interface and wifi. Many older homes don't have this extra wire because those types of devices didn't exist at the time. This leaves you 3 options: 1. Hope you get lucky and there are other wires in your cluster that aren't being used that you can substitute for the C wire (luck you!) 2. Give up use of your manual fan control by 'correctly' assembling the G wire in place of the C wire (only works with gas and a couple other types of units... ouch), or 3. Buy new wiring that contains the extra wire and feed it through from you HVAC unit to the thermostat box (hope you don't have them far away from each other or with lots of turns in the walls!)
@@kempkennedy3542 Well a lot of installers staple these wires in the wall. The only other option that was easy, was to to run a power pack up to the thermostat. Also the wiring for the heat exchanger is relatively new.
WOW RO DU, IF YOU DO THIS FOR A LIVING YOU SHOULD PROBABLY QUIT BECAUSE YOU DONT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.
Funny (NOT funny) that you instruct the installer to turn the circuit breaker ON after the installation is complete, yet YOU NEVER ADVISED TO SHUT OFF the power!!! Shutting off the breaker should be step #1 for not only preventing frying your control board, but also for SAFETY! So much for thinking the manufacturer (Honeywell) will provide a accurate DIY video! #LAME
DO NOT SUBSTITUTE A G WIRE FOR C WIRE! THEY ARE 2 DIFFERENT WIRES FOR 2 DIFFERENT PURPOSES! YOU CAN NOT DO THIS! IT can cause a fire or short out your electrical system!
DO NOT COMMENT WHEN YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT THE FUCK YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT
I most certainly do know because it can happen and has. You can short the entire system and overload the board doing this.
James L it crosses the board. sorry ywars of experience and burnt out control boards this is not to be done. ive seen it all
Rusty if it didn;t work either you hooked it up wrong on one or both ends or you are just an idiot...I bet the latter.
I'm guessing you moved "things" around without turning the power off Rusty. That's what probably fried your boards. Shutting the power off, moving the G to C at both ends, and power it back on will works just fine. I've done it. The only negative effect is you loose your Fan only ability, which I don't recall EVER using. There's no "jumpering" whatsoever. The best way would be to run a new conductor(s) with whatever total number of wires your system/thermostat needs.
THE WORST terminals I’ve ever had to use. Pure hot trash!