If I know Justin he probably said something like “if you get all the parts from one place you can MF them if you have issues” 😂😂. It’s good to see you back in the shop so soon. Just don’t do too much!
I talked to John Sears a few weeks ago. He told me for the front suspension to remain stock style the upper strut mounts / caster, camber plates cannot be welded in. They have to bolt in the strut tower. Just like the ones you are using from RCI.
There has to be a few pounds of media stuck in there! I definitely vote to keep that section of stock firewall and keep the stock-ish style caster camber plates as well as the existing sections of front frame rail so that you can race in those classes. If you wanted ultimate weight savings and weren't worried about racing in stock front suspension classes, you would just want to start with a full tube chassis that didn't have stock floor pan sections, hinge posts, cowl, firewall, front frame rails, etc. etc.. Hope the bicep heals up quick, can't wait to see more progress on the convertible!
Be warry of your left arm while you are unable to use your right. Lots of extra stress. Tore my left rotator cuff off a few years back. Keep the front factory style suspension but change as much as possible.
So I used some shit that was similar when I had my frame blasted and it looked like it wrecked the shop floor also like urs but the concrete is just fine. It may have taken off the sealant but other then fabbing and wrenching in my garage shop it doesn't really get wet so it looks totally normal but yea good luck you'll still be finding sand or whatever media they used when ur putting ur car back together no matter how much you vacuum and wipe and blowout stuff
I have an excel file exactly like that for my dirtbike, lots of Ti. Glad to know I’m not the only one. Need to add another column with a formula, cost per lb
Find out what the windshield hoop weighs. Typically they are triple wall thick for roll over protection in the stock car. We duplicate them in fiberglass (I'm the Porsche guy)
Probably should’ve left it alone and bought a 200$ rust bucket for a vin number, and 2 quarter panels at this point. 😂 there’s not much going to be left factory if you do all that. This is one of my favorite cars though. It was cooler with the ford but hey, you got to do what you got to do to go faster.
You might as well go to the cups on the front. Stock style suspension doesn’t matter when you are back halfing it and getting rid of stock style suspension. The firewall is up to you. You know what kind of racing you do and what the classes are and what the rules are. If there are no rules on factory firewall then might as well replace it and make it nicer and exactly how you want it.
Keep the stock style front suspension Including portion of firewall in stock location. That should keep you within the rules and no one can bitch. Leave it. 👍
Strut cup and welded solid CC plate in same location should NOT change factory suspension IMO.. I know somw classes it does but it shouldn’t. I did strut cups on my car but in factory location.
@@theholleyefiguy Replace the firewall hole panel with some fancy bead-rolled metal panel? I dunno I don't have the talent to do any of that, would look cool though.
If I know Justin he probably said something like “if you get all the parts from one place you can MF them if you have issues” 😂😂. It’s good to see you back in the shop so soon. Just don’t do too much!
I vote for keeping the parts that make big Ern "fit" you classes you want to run in.
I hope you have a speedy recovery!
I talked to John Sears a few weeks ago. He told me for the front suspension to remain stock style the upper strut mounts / caster, camber plates cannot be welded in. They have to bolt in the strut tower. Just like the ones you are using from RCI.
There has to be a few pounds of media stuck in there! I definitely vote to keep that section of stock firewall and keep the stock-ish style caster camber plates as well as the existing sections of front frame rail so that you can race in those classes. If you wanted ultimate weight savings and weren't worried about racing in stock front suspension classes, you would just want to start with a full tube chassis that didn't have stock floor pan sections, hinge posts, cowl, firewall, front frame rails, etc. etc.. Hope the bicep heals up quick, can't wait to see more progress on the convertible!
Thanks for part 2! Keep them coming!
Hope the arm heals quickly
Don’t forget about the amount of media in the front frame rail as well.
Be warry of your left arm while you are unable to use your right. Lots of extra stress. Tore my left rotator cuff off a few years back.
Keep the front factory style suspension but change as much as possible.
Great work and wish you a speedy recovery.
Ospho is Awesome
Get well soon man.
So I used some shit that was similar when I had my frame blasted and it looked like it wrecked the shop floor also like urs but the concrete is just fine. It may have taken off the sealant but other then fabbing and wrenching in my garage shop it doesn't really get wet so it looks totally normal but yea good luck you'll still be finding sand or whatever media they used when ur putting ur car back together no matter how much you vacuum and wipe and blowout stuff
I have an excel file exactly like that for my dirtbike, lots of Ti. Glad to know I’m not the only one.
Need to add another column with a formula, cost per lb
Find out what the windshield hoop weighs. Typically they are triple wall thick for roll over protection in the stock car. We duplicate them in fiberglass (I'm the Porsche guy)
Cut the firewall out and replace it with titanium, in the factory location.
Probably should’ve left it alone and bought a 200$ rust bucket for a vin number, and 2 quarter panels at this point. 😂 there’s not much going to be left factory if you do all that. This is one of my favorite cars though. It was cooler with the ford but hey, you got to do what you got to do to go faster.
When are you and Matt doing a Sloppy radio show about the build?
You might as well go to the cups on the front. Stock style suspension doesn’t matter when you are back halfing it and getting rid of stock style suspension.
The firewall is up to you. You know what kind of racing you do and what the classes are and what the rules are. If there are no rules on factory firewall then might as well replace it and make it nicer and exactly how you want it.
Keep the stock style front suspension Including portion of firewall in stock location. That should keep you within the rules and no one can bitch. Leave it. 👍
586lbs Back in 1997 i caught a Blue Marlin that weighed the same thing, coincidentally my motorcycle weighs that too. Y'all take care.
That torn bicep is punishment lol
How will the spindle mounts go with drag and drive activities? Like do you normally swap front wheels/tyres between street and track or carry a spare?
Hopefully whoever paints or does any powdercoating knows to neutralize the ospho before doing any paint and bodywork.
Just want to second this. Barry from SPI, recommends re-wetting with ospho and essentially wiping it off with a clean rag and water.
It's hard to cut firewall and use strut cups and and make an outlaw street car.
I think putting the methanol fuel cell up front will save a ton of weight
The fuel pump cables are heavy
We don’t have the room and really need the weight in the back more
Strut cup and welded solid CC plate in same location should NOT change factory suspension IMO.. I know somw classes it does but it shouldn’t. I did strut cups on my car but in factory location.
Going to roll a 300 go big Ern
How"d you hurt your arm? You try driving a stick shift pro mod or something?😂
I was thinking maybe 7lbs difference, given the amount of paint jobs on there.
Shit. I tore my bicep. It was so weak and sore and took forever before it started to feel right.
Where's Justin, yall send him home already?
Keep the stock front stuff
In my opinion.....never put chemicals on blasted metal. Do chassis work and re blast it then powder coat. No chemicals.
The ospho is to keep it from rusting during fab work
It will go back to the media blast before powder coat and paint
Your car looks bad but looks good! Your arm just looks bad. What media did you blast with? Glass bead?
They used aluminum oxide
@@theholleyefiguy Replace the firewall hole panel with some fancy bead-rolled metal panel? I dunno I don't have the talent to do any of that, would look cool though.
Leave it for the weight savings and the argument
What’s under the car cover?? Hmmm
A customers car
Got a real short front end, I’d guess a pickup of some kind
Hah, I was right about the weight, well, .5 lb less.
JEZUS CHRIST im in pain
From what
Check out hispeedti a little cheaper than ti64 and racetech ti . Also have you seen you can get 5/8 rear stud and nut in ti?