I learned a great deal about advanced soldering techniques watching your videos. Could your please point your readers to a source for the tools that you are using?
Why do i end up with big solder blobs on the first bridges and nothing left on the last half. How do you adjust the amount of solder on the single pads?
Great technique. I still have some questions about the bridged pads. Is (all) the solder removed from the tip before fixing the bridge? Would this work also if you drag the tip in the reverse direction, instead of 'pushing' like you showed? Is it recommended to design wider pads on the corners so that excess solder goes there instead of causing the bridge in the first place?
+Frank Razenberg - Excellent questions. Yes, it is preferred to wipe the tip of remaining solder. You can pull the iron in any direction you wish but I caution you, ONLY the pressure of the handle and you must read the wetting in action. Once removed, touching down with a freshly wiped or tinned tip will cause the bridge to go liquid and chase the heat source. The flux reduces surface tension. If one combines the use of proper tip, angle, pressure, flux, tinning and dwell time then anyone can pull multiple bridges very fast leaving beautiful solder fillets. I will do a video release shortly dedicated to solder bridge removal. Thank you for your comment.
+John Gammell Thank you for the detailed description. I used to require multiple rounds of adding flux and tip cleaning before. After seeing this video I've changed my technique and bridge removal has become efficient and fast. I look forward to your next videos!
+wael abdelmawgoud this is water soluble or RMA type flux. I prefer RMA for lead free soldering, in addition RMA is less aggressive to components. To remove flux residues IPA is OK, solution of IPA + Zippo fuel (1:1) works even better . HAKKO 888D is good for simple DIY projects. But a lot of things are depending on the personal skills and experience .
+Anatoli Panchenko - Anatoli, it has been a long time. I hope you are well. You are correct.The flux is a water soluble. A Kester 2331-ZX. I like it as it is very aggressive, promotes excellent wetting and cleans up with water. My preference would be a good RMA but then there are more solids to clean up. Does the Zippo fuel leave any residual at all? I use IPA at 99% or a good spray flux remover like Flux Off.
Hello John, Yes,the IPA works good alone, but I found that IPA dry too fast. Those special cleaning agents, generally IPA+acetone, ethanol or similar solvent, sold in spray cans, dry even faster. I found that the IPA + Zippo fuel, or IPA + benzine (medical, or industrial) dry longer, allowing better flux residues removal. The Zippo fuel leaves barely visible signs on PCB , so if I wont to get the PCB ideally clean, as a final step, I wipe the PCB by Kleenex wetted just in IPA . In general, I'm using IPA+Zippo for manual cleaning of "difficult" components - like fine pitch IC, or cleaning parts on assembled PCB, where acces to component, or area to be cleaned, is limited by nearest parts. An excellent results I got with the IPA+Zippo, and Braun Oral-B rehcargeble tooth brush: due that vibrating - rotating action, it capable to enter and clean between tight placed IC pins. I think that better results is possible to obtain in ultrasonic bath, or by usage high pressure spray washing only. I have a question to you. I need some good hot air station. I found Quick 861DA, AOYUE 857A++ looks and prised good. I'll be interesting to hear you opinion about these instruments.
The field-programmable gate array in a TQFP or LQFP package in fine pitch gull wing configuration should solder just fine and with minimal solder bridging. I would use a micro mini wave tip and zoom my scope in. We use to repair and replace micro QFP components on small USB flash drives with ultra fine pitch leads. Your talking a TQFP 144 on a small adapter board. With the correct tip, flux, temp and so on, these will wet the same. I would consider these easy as well.
I think to perform soldering like that, is necessary more than great equipments. Ninja's skill are also required. Great job!
I learned a great deal about advanced soldering techniques watching your videos. Could your please point your readers to a source for the tools that you are using?
what model number is that TIP 0.5mm 0.8mm C type ? also what Flux are you using??
Why do i end up with big solder blobs on the first bridges and nothing left on the last half. How do you adjust the amount of solder on the single pads?
like magic
How do I know the amount of solder I put on the solder tip will be enough for each side?
You're hand is so steady and you drink coffee lol.
Great technique. I still have some questions about the bridged pads. Is (all) the solder removed from the tip before fixing the bridge? Would this work also if you drag the tip in the reverse direction, instead of 'pushing' like you showed? Is it recommended to design wider pads on the corners so that excess solder goes there instead of causing the bridge in the first place?
+Frank Razenberg - Excellent questions. Yes, it is preferred to wipe the tip of remaining solder. You can pull the iron in any direction you wish but I caution you, ONLY the pressure of the handle and you must read the wetting in action. Once removed, touching down with a freshly wiped or tinned tip will cause the bridge to go liquid and chase the heat source. The flux reduces surface tension. If one combines the use of proper tip, angle, pressure, flux, tinning and dwell time then anyone can pull multiple bridges very fast leaving beautiful solder fillets. I will do a video release shortly dedicated to solder bridge removal. Thank you for your comment.
+John Gammell Thank you for the detailed description. I used to require multiple rounds of adding flux and tip cleaning before. After seeing this video I've changed my technique and bridge removal has become efficient and fast. I look forward to your next videos!
how to do it with 88i6745-TFJ1
you are professional please recommend me what flux i use? and i have Hakko FX-888D this good ? and thank you for every video you did for teach us
+wael abdelmawgoud this is water soluble or RMA type flux. I prefer RMA for lead free soldering, in addition RMA is less aggressive to components. To remove flux residues IPA is OK, solution of IPA + Zippo fuel (1:1) works even better . HAKKO 888D is good for simple DIY projects. But a lot of things are depending on the personal skills and experience .
+Anatoli Panchenko - Anatoli, it has been a long time. I hope you are well. You are correct.The flux is a water soluble. A Kester 2331-ZX. I like it as it is very aggressive, promotes excellent wetting and cleans up with water. My preference would be a good RMA but then there are more solids to clean up. Does the Zippo fuel leave any residual at all? I use IPA at 99% or a good spray flux remover like Flux Off.
Hello John,
Yes,the IPA works good alone, but I found that IPA dry too fast. Those special cleaning agents, generally IPA+acetone, ethanol or similar solvent, sold in spray cans, dry even faster. I found that the IPA + Zippo fuel, or IPA + benzine (medical, or industrial) dry longer, allowing better flux residues removal. The Zippo fuel leaves barely visible signs on PCB , so if I wont to get the PCB ideally clean, as a final step, I wipe the PCB by Kleenex wetted just in IPA . In general, I'm using IPA+Zippo for manual cleaning of "difficult" components - like fine pitch IC, or cleaning parts on assembled PCB, where acces to component, or area to be cleaned, is limited by nearest parts. An excellent results I got with the IPA+Zippo, and Braun Oral-B rehcargeble tooth brush: due that vibrating - rotating action, it capable to enter and clean between tight placed IC pins. I think that better results is possible to obtain in ultrasonic bath, or by usage high pressure spray washing only.
I have a question to you. I need some good hot air station. I found Quick 861DA, AOYUE 857A++ looks and prised good. I'll be interesting to hear you opinion about these instruments.
hello friends, maybe you can help me.. do you need a program for IC 5895-5220C QFP128 or just plug it in? thanks
Would like to see if it is as "easy" to solder an FPGA in TQFP144 package on an adapter breakout board
The field-programmable gate array in a TQFP or LQFP package in fine pitch gull wing configuration should solder just fine and with minimal solder bridging. I would use a micro mini wave tip and zoom my scope in. We use to repair and replace micro QFP components on small USB flash drives with ultra fine pitch leads. Your talking a TQFP 144 on a small adapter board. With the correct tip, flux, temp and so on, these will wet the same. I would consider these easy as well.
Thank you. I think I'll try it with a cheap component first :)
what kind of cleaner you use ?
isopropyl alcohol