Volvo P2 Engine Removal
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- čas přidán 24. 08. 2024
- Relatively in depth video on removing the 2.4t 5cyl motor from a P2 chassis with the subframe, wiring harness and steering rack attached. If you have any questions feel free to ask; I've written a very long "notes and instructions" guide, but its not edited so I'll post as needed. Some steps are not filmed and others I accidentally skipped. If you have a hoist its much easier to lift the body off the car but I didn't so I made due.
Thanks for watching!
OK, so after starting on this job myself, I've come up with a couple notes to share. First, my model has the headlight wipers, and those take a couple extra steps but basically come off with the headlights, but you gotta take the wiper arms off before you take the bumper off. Just lift the end caps of the arms and there's an 8mm nut on each one, then pull a couple inches (excuse me, centimeters) of the headlight wiper wash fluid hose out, and there's a disconnect for that (yes, there's even headlight wiper wash fluid, also the back wiper sprays fluid). The hose between the two comes off with the hood latch assembly.
Now, for the ECU, there are indeed purple tabs with which to be pushed in (hopefully a normal flat-head screwdriver is all you need for this part). They need to be pushed in ALL THE WAY, and they will unplug the ECU when they're pushed all the way in, so don't try to pry the ECU out. It helps to unclip the white-ish plastic base out of the bottom black plastic cover, so you can lift out the ECU and get straight at the purple tabs. Mine was packed with sand, so it was kind of a b*tch to do, but after working it around a bit I got it all apart (and I'm gonna clean and lube the whole thing when I put it all together, and maybe add a sand filter to any openings). After that, unclip the red clip on the wiring harness, then squeeze the two tabs that reveals (needle nose pliers work fine), and pull the black part straight out of the off-white part.
Great tips about the ECM (ECU), here's a video - remember to place back the lower cover Correctly without leaving any gap at the bottom, especially at the front bottom clip, so no water from rain gets in there czcams.com/video/cQYOiS__oyo/video.html
Great job! It looks comical watching you do this at a fast speed,
Great job.
Thank you.
Thanks you Sir Great Video - I am about to remove the RN engine from a S60 T5 to put into an 850R - first time so here goes!
Yep confirmed what i was scared of. Going through this right now with my V70 gen1, same thing, no space to pull engine form top, have to drop subframe and pull th engine out from the bottom of the car. Way more work than anticipated hahah Good job!
What year is the V70 gen 1? I have two 1999 Cross Countries, one with a bad engine, the other has a good engine. Been putting off removal for several years.
@@thardyryll its 1999 yea!Well, makes 2 of us - min is still waiting in the field. :D
@@mancavecustoms13Now I can tell my wife I am not alone… one of the V70s is visible through the kitchen window, the other is in the weeds down the driveway next to my 1960 International dump truck. What was I thinking. Gorgeous cars, at least until I bought them.
Great video, I really appreciate the on-screen notes of the bolt sizes and count. I'm looking to do this on my Volvo (exact same model/year/color) and I'm interested in your "notes and instructions" that you mention in your description. Mainly I just want a checklist of steps, and maybe a list of tools, so I can properly plan this job. I'd be happy to help edit your notes and share my own too, cuz I'll probly end up detailing every step when I do this job myself. Thanks.
FRONT END
Bumper plastic torx 27 and plastic clips side and bottom unplug fog lights
Black Cross plate x10+ 10mm socket bolts
x6 10mm bolts remove horns and hood latch + cable
Remove air duct guides in front of radiator assembly
Remove headlights - 4 of the 10mm should already be off from step 2.
2 more bolts on the side and 2 in the front disconnect headlight plugs
Remove x2 securing screws from charge pipe to intake. Torx 20(?)
Disconnect charge pipe from turbo outlet coupling and intercooler to charge pipe tubing
Disconnect air intake tubing from intake
Disconnect a/c condenser line from driver side.
Disconnect transmission line clips. Careful with the clips as they become brittle.
Remove lower radiator hose, empty and remove upper hose.
Remove coolant Reservoir overflow hose.
Disconnect cooling fans. 2 connectors
Disconnect condenser low pressure(?) switch connector
Entire Assembly can be removed by the removal of two 13mm(?) bolts from the bottom but slid out through the top.
ENGINE BAY
In this video I won’t be disconnecting the wiring harness
On the first car I did this job on I disconnected everything but in hindsight it’s much easier to disconnect the engine harness from both ends and drop it with the subframe, disconnect and reconnect as needed. I believe this to be more efficient because of the connections you have to deal with at the rear near the turbo and the hassle underneath the intake.
Other than step one the listed items don’t need to be done in order
Serpentine belt. Two different styles that I know of either tensioner bolt or large torx bit, possibly a 50 torx
A/c compressor 4 12mm(?) bolts
Power steering reservoir
Coolant reservoir, drained and removed
Heater hoses on firewall
Air filter, housing and MAF plug. It has 3(?) grommets at the bottom. May be brittle.
Lay the TCV (turbo control valve) to the side and disconnect the plug.
Fuse box main power, and harness plug. Fuse box removal isn’t totally necessary but it gives extra space. It doesn’t totally come out. x2 10mm bolts
ECU harness plug can be tricky. It slides out of place with the push of some purple tabs one on each side of the connector.
Down pipe heat shield. x2 12mm bolts take the long wire from its place while you’re at it. This is the O2 sensor wire which needs to be disconnected later
Down pipe at turbo outlet
Two are easier from the underneath and one will be done from above. 13mm deepwell socket with some wrench assist. Pre-soak them in penetrating oil for your own good.
Exhaust does not have to be dropped but if you do it helps with the drive shaft bolts. (Done from underneath)
There are 4 Transmission connectors which come off easily and have a small brace to keep them all secure and together. The plastic brace is easily removed from the bay by hand or small pliers.
Very important: remove the steering column bolt, this way the steering rack will separate from the column with weight later on. Some penetrating oil on the square/ beveled sided edge shaft will help.
Other information: there is no need to separate the rack from the column ahead of time in my experience. When all is done, the lowering of the subframe will slide the shaft out of place smoothly. *No need to hammer it out or pry at the seam.*
Neither the steering rack or sway bar need be removed. Seriously, Don’t bother.
Vacuum hose for brake booster ties into a few things. It only(?) needs to be disconnected from the intake. Because of the size, I recommend a Crescent wrench.
Oxygen sensors. The first thing I realized about the connectors is that they are in a bothersome place: at the back of the transmission near the steering column under the abs unit almost under the turbo Inlet pipe and they can barely be seen.
1. The connectors are totally different in style. One has an insert that pops out and the other one has a tab that as it pivots it simultaneously separates the plugs. The insert style(?) is what I’ll call impossible to remove without sliding it off its plastic holder tab which does help significantly. On the tab style conector the wires are shorter which make it more difficult to access with the two hands needed. Your best ally is a small flat head screwdriver.
Take special care that O2 sensors are completely out of its wire holding clips and clear of snags like I had, the sensors get expensive and extra wiring gets time consuming.
TIP: do these last, as you’re lowering the subframe. Side note this could end up badly if forgotten. just make sure the wiring is clear because you will need all the slack. The drawback is precariously standing in the engine bay of a suspended car body momentarily.
Suspension AND UNDERNEATH
As previously said this method comes out pretty much as complete as possible. I tried to figure out a way to do less while the subframe is up but this is what I came with.
Brake calipers: two 15mm bolts per side. Make sure they are put back with semi permanent lock tight. TIP: If you care about your brake lines don’t let them hang. The calipers are heavy duty.
Abs sensors come out with a 10mm socket
The struts: on the bottom they come out with a 21mm socket/wrench and an 18mm socket/wrench. On the top (if you want), it’s a deepwell 13mm socket
Also connected is the sway bar links
Sway bars only need to be disconnected at the strut. 18mm nut, In the likely case that it starts spinning you will need a torx 40 to hold the middle stud. If you’re been using an impact for efficiency until this point, STOP. Any bit of a snag and it will snap the torx bit like butter. This is a huge time sucker if the stud strips inside, get the right bit and use some penetrating oil to avoid this becoming a 40min process.
TIP. Disconnect the sway bar from the strut before removing the strut from the hub.
Exhaust brace. This brace just reduces vibration and supports the down pipe. It only needs to be unbolted, not removed. Unless you choose to remove the whole exhaust system. x4 18mm bolts x2 on each side. Seems like overkill to me.
Drive shaft has x6 7mm(?) allen head bolts. They aren’t that tight but make sure lock tight goes back on them. You will need the torque of a 3/8 ratchet but without removing the exhaust you will need about 15 inches of 1/4 extension a swivel and a reducer 3/8 -> 1/4 any power tools would help on the removal time after they are all loosened. As shown the drive shaft can stick, it may need a little pry or jiggle.
The subframe has 2 plates that serve as rear jack points but you’ll have to support the car else where to remove the jack point plates. x4 bolts 14mm(?) x2 on each side only for the rear subframe bolts.
CHECK EVERYTHING see if anything appears to be connected. Hoses, wires etc.
NOW you can lower the car almost all the way onto a moving dolly. I angled mine on the dolly with a 6x2 to compensate for my driveway and the drive shaft being stuck. (It may not have helped the second reason)
IMPORTANT: be careful NOT to let the whole front weight of the car onto the dolly. Keep it slightly above, at this point
evenly loosen all the subframe bolts x4 18mm until resting. Lift car body accordingly. Engine hoist is ideal.
ChaosLord good luck amigo
holy smoke. That was quite a job. Great video
stop around 14:00 and hoist the engine up and out of the car..much easier
I saved to my "Favourites" and my support from me as well. Keep making vids like this.
PistonShack thanks mate! I have a couple videos in the cue I’ve just been so busy. Some VW and Volvo 240 stuff
Awesome job, guys! A lot of work. Thanks for filming. I love Volvo cars)
For anyone rebuilding this transmission and looking for parts, you will find that there are two types of filters: ones with or without a "rib". I am unable to find a definitive source of information as to which transmissions have which filter, and the only source that said anything about it WAS WRONG, so I'm here to share the one tiny tidbit I know (I had to tear my entire transmission apart to figure this out, AFTER I had already bought the wrong filter):
The transmission in a 2001 Volvo V70XC has a filter WITH a rib. (there, was that so hard, internet?) If you have a different vehicle, I can't help you, but don't count on internet sources either. Tear your transmission apart first, then buy the parts when you know for sure which ones to get. (Also, my friction plates are all fine, I can still see the paint on them, so for me, IT IS JUST THE VALVE BODY!!!)
Why did you not pull the brace from the front of the car? you could have skiped the jacking up of the body and roll it out.
If the lower transmission cooling line is stuck at the radiator and breaks, you can unscrew and replace the whole large metal cylinder that screws into the radiator. For the upper cooling line, start by rotating a little the line at the green clip, to break loose the o-rings inside. Then use a long pry bar under the line to gently 'pull' on it with the left hand, while keeping well depressed the green clip and rotating the line back and forth a little with the right hand - go slowly, don't rush and it should come out without breaking anything. Oh, and never pull on the ABS sensors to remove them: guarantee they will fail, always push them out with a flat screw driver from underneath
wow amazing work
great video! Thanks man!!!
I didn't catch the part why removing the entire front clip and radiator and all that work was necessary to remove the power train..?
And then I fast forwarded to the end and saw it was a complete subframe drop which... Lol Which completely explained why they disassembled the entire front end like that. I started watching this going man this is going to be a lot more work and I thought it would be.
I was about to comment on depending what you're wanting from the car, what the easiest way is, and thats just to remove the hood and pools straight up out and away like I have seen on other B2 engine removals.
I wasn't expecting the entire subframe to be served with the drivetrain being pulled from the car, auto salvage yard style,
My 2006 v70n/a looks super easy to do it if I have to pull the motor.
Removing the radiator and everything was a choice I made for other reasons, you are correct you could disconnect everything and drop the whole sub frame without. As far as lifting the motor out of the body without the transmission, I personally have done it on a p80 and it was a disaster trying to get everything realigned while suspended and the rest of transmission was making a leaking mess, there was limited room and this time having already done it the other way I decided to do it differently and I much prefer this way not to mention it sits in its own cradle really well for parts removal and stability etc.
Where in the video did you disconect the driveshaft? And where did you disconect the stering?
Might you know the location of the front R impact sensor for the SRS Airbag system? I somehow cannot find it. Following all the cables and none lead to an impact sensor.
Hey Lucas I have a 02 XC 70 body
HOW-TO VIDEO:
(16:12 min)
SAVE TO MY VIDEOS is great shape However engine is the crapper. My question is do you have sources to either repair or purchase a used good engine at a resonance price thanks
Hey Gerard, if you are in the US I would recommend joining Facebook Volvo groups either for your state or area, or even nationally like Volvospeed and Volvo parts sale pages. Most of the good motors you will get are going to be from people near you that are enthusiasts even if you need to drive a couple hours.
So I hit a curb this morning and bent my subframe. The passenger front control arm broke off the ball joint and its mounts bent the subframe. do you think it's possible to support the engine up top and just drop and swap out the subframe? Looking at it from underneath it seems possible but I've never done something like this.
I would say yes but it will take a couple people to be safe. I would recommend acquiring the proper boom for the job from strut tower to strut tower if I’m not mistaken. The other thing is you’ll basically be doing this job from the bottom coming down and the motor mount alignment and off balanced nature of the motor and transmission will be fun to say the least. Main thing (in my head at least) is to be careful with the power steering rack, that will probably take a lot of your time up suspending it and what not. Good luck
@@lukesalazar2987 Is a P2 chassis what my 2004 XC70 uses by chance? You removed the whole unit. Do you think it's possible to support engine from above and remove only the subframe from below? Or are there engine mounts / frame nuts / bolts you cannot get to from underside? Say that one under the headlight might need the nut secured?
You need a special key to release the ECU
That brown coolant tank....
Front impact sensors. Please tell me the location. This car is making an ass out of me. Want to test to see if it latches closed or resets to open after a dash airbag went off. Sending out SRS Module to get reset. Doesn't seem to have wiring to detect if airbag is bad or impact sensor is bad. NOt positive though. But where the hell are they located? I have bumper and grill off and removed front right headlight. Following all cables, cannot find impact sensor. Wonder what color the connector is. HELP.
Hi Justin, unfortunately I don’t know enough about those sensors to assist. I would direct you to some of the fb Volvo communities or the Volvospeed forum. Cheers
Do I need any computer reprogramming when swapping engine?
possible on a 2002 volvo s40?
I believe so but it’s a smaller chassis if I’m not mistake. I’m sure some things will very
How long does this take? I've got an S60 that the engine has given up. So I either scrap a car I've already put a lot of money into or I get the engine changed.
With all the tools a hoist and a friend to help, less than a day. Some things aren’t even technically necessary, I did them because I have bigger plans for the car, like taking the bumper and all that
@@lukesalazar2987 I am going to show my mechanic these instructions, he has changed my engine before, long story, but I doesn't remember the steps (he took a long time to change it), muchas gracias!
Просто крассавчик)
im all for working on Volvos and doing a AUTO trans in my 2006 this week (driving 1 day 10 hrs later sitting over night it don't shift?) ..this is to much !!! not for the average person !
pay money people id nver do a trans or motor in 1 of these again unless i had a summer to do so .these jobs are NO JOKE and if not careful you will get hurt!!!
Thats not professinal remove the volvo engine !
summer skblue huh