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How to Replace Lower Ball Joints on a 2014 Chevy Silverado (4x4)
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- čas přidán 29. 09. 2023
- Torque specs:
axle nut = 177 ft-lbs
lug nuts = 140 ft-lbs
tie rod nut = 26 ft-lbs plus 90 degrees
upper ball joint nut = 37 ft-lbs plus 100 degrees
lower ball joint nut = 37 ft-lbs plus 130 degrees
Those sway bar links are toast bud 😂
Love your video very informative and I did buy a factory set of lower ball joints for Chev because I have run into issues with after market not fit well or to tight .
Thank you, Jack. I like the use of the OE parts. I agree that it was the best choice with so much aftermarket junk out there. I run into this a lot too and it's very frustrating & time consuming. Tks again!
I'm guessing the general principal can be applied even to my 10 year-old VW Golf. Good point about making sure you have the correct OEM part before re-assembling. Another excellent J.F. video.
I believe on your VW, the ball joint attaches to the control arm using three studs/nuts so actually the removal of the ball joint would be a bit easier on yours because you don’t have to worry about using a press. Thanks for watching as always!
Folks in The Renaissance Center should watch this!
That was a great educational video
That's a load bearing ball joint so for that vehicle you want to jack up the lower control arm and then put your pry bar under the wheel and check for play. Otherwise it can make a bad ball joint feel totally solid because the weight of the suspension will be pushing on the ball joint if the load is not taken off of it by placing the Jack under the lower control arm
Came down to the comments to say the same thing.
Great point! You’re absolutely right.
Is there not an indication om the ball joint to make sure its oriented properly, like " mount this side inboard" ?
I just did mine, but I did the whole lower arm, it's not much more money, and you get new bushings, and it's just as fast if not faster, especially sense almost everything has to come apart
What’s the torque specs on the caliper mounting bolts
You should have removed those pressed edges (very simple to do) before hammering and pressing out the bad ball joint. JS
You’re right about that.
Cast iron, not steel, and yeah, pretty brutal on the hammer, but it kinda worked.
You have an air hammer, maybe applied that instead of the bash.
Awesome video!!!!! Definitely subscribing, Did you do sway bar links also?
Never mind, I spoke to soon lol
Thank you so much! Yeah I put new sway bar links too (I’m guessing you saw that at the end).
How long should it take to do one side?
🔴 awsome video, i have 1 question, would bad lower ball joint/ lower control arm cause inner tire wear ? Mines doing that, and rhey told me it was the lower control arm, but i dont believe them !
It definitely could cause inner tire wear. Usually I find that inner tire wear is caused by the toe being out of specs on the alignment, but anything on the front end that’s worn will contribute.
@@jackhfletcher thank you so much
, i took it back to the same place due to inner wear on a new set of tires for the second time ! Checked everything and seems okay, added new struts to the frond end, due to the same problem when i purchased the vehicle, is there a certain damping force they mew struts should have because i dint go with OEM parts due to it being so expensive ! might take it somewhere else ! You just gained a new subscriber !
NEVER HIT AN ALUMINUM KNUCKLE OR CONTROL ARM WITH A HAMMER !!! That is only ok when they are steel. If you don't know the basics of auto repair, you have no business working on other people's vehicles or making videos showing others how NOT to do it... Hitting a soft aluminum part with a steel hammer is the number one way to screw things up. The reason that tie rod end fell out is probably because someone has hit the knuckle with a hammer before and distorted the taper that is designed to hold it securely. The knuckle may be cracked as this often happens when people don't know what they are doing and use a hammer on aluminum.
I'm Total agree ,aluminum is easy to damage,it's a no no,we learning new things ever day....(I don't agree with a Bold join without lock)..
I like this video
Thank you
Where did you or where can you get a chisel like yours
That punch was actually given to me about 7 years ago. I’m not sure where it came from. But most tool stores (such as Harbor Freight) will have center punches and chisels that are similar.
So I just went back and looked, and it’s the Dasco Pro brand from Home Depot.
Hi Jack, Do you have a contact info so we know how to work with us? Young here from Kingbolen.
doctorjfletcher@gmail.com
Nice video thks
Yeah I didn't do half that just need a jack and screw driver to stop moving.
If I do that I'm using balljoints with grease fittings...
Can you do mine?
If you’re in the Katy, TX area then yes!