I'm glad this is uncut seeing you trying to reposition but running out of time gives me an idea of how long I have to work with it before it sets too much to make major adjustments
Yes as long as it stays wet then you can work with it for a long period of time, just keep damping it down if you hit a snag. I guess in theory you could always apply the tissue with just plain water and fettle it into position as required and once happy wipe a coat of thinned eze dope on afterwards whilst its still damp. No chance of getting stuck with any wrinkles you didn't want! Might give that a try next time myself.
This is brilliant. I've tried tissue on mylar a number of times without a lot of success ditto for Eze Dope - it always ended up really messy (I think I was just laying on too thickly). Your method showed how to do both in one go and it works really well. I recovered an ancient Ajax model which has under cambered wings - the method took some time but worked really well, and I've ended up with a really nice strong, traditional looking finish. Thanks.
You're welcome, glad it helped! Since making this video I've altered my method a little and now just apply the tissue with plain water and then do with the paper towel and manipulation to acheive a nice smooth and only slightly damp finish to the tissue and then sponge on some 50:50 Eze dope and then wipe out again with the paper towel. I find it easier this way as it gives plenty of time to get it right without any worry about the Eze dope sticking the tissue anywhere before you're quite finished and happy with it. Especially useful if you're covering bigger or more intricate areas.
thank you for that tip about washout I had no idea how i was going to do that for the plane im building I was just not going to do it I'm glad I now know how I will
I find it easier these days to lay the tissue on then wet it with a spray, and then starting from the end lift it back to the middle and let it fall back a little at a timewith the aid of a brush and dope. That gets rid of the wrinkles. It’s taken me years to get on top of it. I guess the EZE dope being water based wets it and shrinks it in one.
That's a good tip, I might give that a try next time. I could see that just concentrating on wetting it out with just water and settling out any wrinkles first and remove excess liquid and then once happy with it you could wipe on a slightly stronger mix of Eze Dope and then wipe off any excess. It would probably be more economical on the Eze dope too that way.
Thanks. Balsaloc or PVA white glue to the framework and allow to dry, then attatch the mylar with a heating iron on low setting. The heat will reactivate the glue.
Sure, its a Pietenpol Air Camper, plans are downloadable from the Outerzone here - outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=1102 I changed the wing structure because I wanted to try out a Dave Rees style wing construction. Most of the rest of it was as per plan except modification to suit electric power.
@@SenorBandiito Thank you very much for getting back to me! I used to fly R/c sailplane a lot. The kids have grown and I have been messing around a bit with balsa again. Our library has just put in a Cricut cutting machine that can do ribs. You have to learn the Inkscape program and I'm working on it. Will keep in touch should I have any success. I too would like to use electric. I might just do a square fuse for a first attempt. Anyway, thanks again for touch base.
@@chrissorlie5291 You're welcome! I posted some pictures of the finished plane on Rc Groups here - www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=38766 so you can get a look at the structure. I'm sure it'll look great as either a simple box fuse or with a few simple formers and some stringers you can create the rounded upper. Being able to use the cricut will really come into its own if you go on to build a tapered wing design and inkscape is a much friendlier tool to use than cad. Good luck!
@@SenorBandiito Thanks Senor!!! Just getting over Covid. At 72 it seems to hang around a little longer. The real aircraft is beautiful. I have a humble 82 hrs. in a 150/172. Just couldn’t afford it. I could see people in the thirties looking at a Pietenpol much like i would look at a Challenger or Flightstar ultralight. Anything to get you in the air. Some lovely full size Pietenpol aircraft. My father and a partner owned a Slingsby Skylark 4. It was all cream with a red tail. As a colour, cream belongs in the sky !!! Will keep in touch. Thanks again for your help! Chris
I'm glad this is uncut
seeing you trying to reposition but running out of time gives me an idea of how long I have to work with it before it sets too much to make major adjustments
Yes as long as it stays wet then you can work with it for a long period of time, just keep damping it down if you hit a snag. I guess in theory you could always apply the tissue with just plain water and fettle it into position as required and once happy wipe a coat of thinned eze dope on afterwards whilst its still damp. No chance of getting stuck with any wrinkles you didn't want! Might give that a try next time myself.
This is brilliant. I've tried tissue on mylar a number of times without a lot of success ditto for Eze Dope - it always ended up really messy (I think I was just laying on too thickly). Your method showed how to do both in one go and it works really well. I recovered an ancient Ajax model which has under cambered wings - the method took some time but worked really well, and I've ended up with a really nice strong, traditional looking finish. Thanks.
You're welcome, glad it helped! Since making this video I've altered my method a little and now just apply the tissue with plain water and then do with the paper towel and manipulation to acheive a nice smooth and only slightly damp finish to the tissue and then sponge on some 50:50 Eze dope and then wipe out again with the paper towel. I find it easier this way as it gives plenty of time to get it right without any worry about the Eze dope sticking the tissue anywhere before you're quite finished and happy with it. Especially useful if you're covering bigger or more intricate areas.
Thanks@@SenorBandiito, I'll try that next time.
thank you for that tip about washout
I had no idea how i was going to do that for the plane im building
I was just not going to do it
I'm glad I now know how I will
I find it easier these days to lay the tissue on then wet it with a spray, and then starting from the end lift it back to the middle and let it fall back a little at a timewith the aid of a brush and dope. That gets rid of the wrinkles. It’s taken me years to get on top of it. I guess the EZE dope being water based wets it and shrinks it in one.
That's a good tip, I might give that a try next time. I could see that just concentrating on wetting it out with just water and settling out any wrinkles first and remove excess liquid and then once happy with it you could wipe on a slightly stronger mix of Eze Dope and then wipe off any excess. It would probably be more economical on the Eze dope too that way.
Very helpful
Hi, nice technique and very nice finish. One question were do you get your mylar
Description says "www.freeflightsupplies.co.uk/"
Perhaps you could change the colour of the writing to make it readable, otherwise great
Agreed, next time I'll use a colour with a better contrast!
What are battens? Did you also shrink-in washout in the mylar prior to the tissue application?
Very nice! How do you attach the Mylar?
Thanks. Balsaloc or PVA white glue to the framework and allow to dry, then attatch the mylar with a heating iron on low setting. The heat will reactivate the glue.
Lots use thinned contact adhesive.
Could i ask is the model your design? if not what is it called? are plans available?? Thanks! ;-)
Sure, its a Pietenpol Air Camper, plans are downloadable from the Outerzone here - outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=1102
I changed the wing structure because I wanted to try out a Dave Rees style wing construction. Most of the rest of it was as per plan except modification to suit electric power.
@@SenorBandiito Thank you very much for getting back to me! I used to fly R/c sailplane a lot. The kids have grown and I have been messing around a bit with balsa again. Our library has just put in a Cricut cutting machine that can do ribs. You have to learn the Inkscape program and I'm working on it. Will keep in touch should I have any success. I too would like to use electric. I might just do a square fuse for a first attempt. Anyway, thanks again for touch base.
@@chrissorlie5291 You're welcome! I posted some pictures of the finished plane on Rc Groups here - www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=38766
so you can get a look at the structure. I'm sure it'll look great as either a simple box fuse or with a few simple formers and some stringers you can create the rounded upper.
Being able to use the cricut will really come into its own if you go on to build a tapered wing design and inkscape is a much friendlier tool to use than cad.
Good luck!
@@SenorBandiito Thanks Senor!!! Just getting over Covid. At 72 it seems to hang around a little longer. The real aircraft is beautiful. I have a humble 82 hrs. in a 150/172. Just couldn’t afford it. I could see people in the thirties looking at a Pietenpol much like i would look at a Challenger or Flightstar ultralight. Anything to get you in the air. Some lovely full size Pietenpol aircraft. My father and a partner owned a Slingsby Skylark 4. It was all cream with a red tail. As a colour, cream belongs in the sky !!! Will keep in touch. Thanks again for your help! Chris
Where do you get your mylar?
I got mine from Free Flight Supplies in the UK - www.freeflightsupplies.co.uk/
why tho?
so it can fly wdym