Body Work Without Body Filler Ep.2 49 Willys Hood
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- čas přidán 17. 04. 2022
- Episode 2 of Body Work without Body Filler we go in more depth on how to metal finish your body panels. This episode will be mainly on Shrinking disc and how it's used in the process of metal working. We will break down some of the tips and tricks used to get your metal to a point where you are using little to no body filler. Here at Sylvester's Customs we are constatly trying to move forward in our skills and quality. Follow along and we hope you gain some new skills along the way.
#sylvesterscustoms
Ken Sakamoto: (Tell Him Travis sent you)
Phone: 626-529-Five 9 zero 6
InstaGram- / sunchaser.shrinkingdisc
FaceBook- / ken.sakamoto.77736
Social Media and Vender Links-------------------------------------------------------
Filmed and Produced by Blown Grit Productions:
/ blowngrit
Sylvesters Customs Instagram:
/ sylvesterscustoms
TooLs--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dollies
Light Toe: amzn.to/37pCn0g
Heavy Toe: amzn.to/3KAHDMO
Hammers
Cross Chisel: amzn.to/3I4CXwY
Angle Grinder
Makita GA7011C 7" Angle Grinder: amzn.to/3xBkmY2
Shrink Disc
Ken Sakamoto: (Tell Him Travis sent you)
Phone: 626-529-Five 9 zero 6 - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I’m saving a Boss 429 left front fender, you have helped so much. I removed 1/2 inch of putty, cuz some goofball was too lazy to remove the inner plastic stone guard to fix it correctly. Following your class and it’s turning out great. Much more work to follow, but I’m pleased with results. ✋🏻👍
Very glad to hear!!! There’s one more video to wrap up this hood coming out Friday 👍🏻
Thanks Travis, you really have a knack for explaining this stuff very clearly! Looking forward to your next one. Cheers
Thank you very much
Love your videos Travis, learning so much from them, you are a great teacher and the way you explain the process in each step is awesome, thanks mate 👍👍🇦🇺
Thank you much appreciated
Great explanations and examples for working metal. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for watching!
Really pleased I found this channel. The methods, practices and tips approach is what I've needed. I've spend much time watching Wray with Pro-Shaper and Lazze, plus Japhands Customs, but you appear to fill in all the blanks. I'm now subscribed!
That’s awesome!! I too watch all of those and that was our goal 👍🏻 thank you
for those looking to get into bodywork and those of us with years of experience but always looking for tips or different ways to do things your videos are very informative ... brilliant !!
Thank you very much I appreciate that comment.
Great job. The sequential explanations are some of the best I've ever heard.
Thank you very much
i made a shrinking disc from a stainless pot lid !!! adapted to my grinder ,.. Worked mint !!!
Hey whatever works lol
I'm so glad I found your channel I have been painting for a while but after your videos I'm like dam I know nothing at all thank you for the info it is very informative all hot rod paint jobs should go through you
Thank you very much we appreciate that
You guys are priceless, such good tutorials, thank you
Our pleasure!
Another awesome video by a great instructor.
Thank you very much!
Great job! Body work is slow and a lot of work. These videos have made me order some new tools and do the work on a bunch of dents on my roof for my 67 bug. Keep it up brother, much better then instant perfection like we see so much on social media.
Thank you very much
Love your videos. I bought a 63 International Scout that was a beat up ranch truck and skim coated with tons of bondo. I going to strip it all off and hopefully bring the old metal back into shape!
Right on I love scouts!
Thank you again for showing the shrinking disc, you have showed how to work both sides to get the hood straight. Thank you for stressing to be patient during this process, thanks!!
Anytime!!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I have taken Ken Sackamoto’s class back in March just wondering if you are going to teach any classes on painting, clearing, color sanding and buffing. I have been watching your classes but nothing like being in person?
Thank you so much, my brother. It all becomes clearer and clearer. I still get that "WTF is going on here and WTF do I do now" thing going on, but back to it I will go!
Keep up the great explanations. These are absolutely astounding videos.
Thank you very much
I am self taught when it comes to hammer and dolly and welding. Watching you with the hammer and dolly is going to help me with my Chevelle. By the way, my nephew Brian H. turned me on to your channel before he moved out of state
Right on!! Thx for watching
Awesome!
The tools as you teach them are exactly opposite than the way I thought they worked.
Small changes, many times for a big effect...
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Fantastic job 👏👏👏👏
Thank you! Cheers!
Mate you explain things so well , even I can understand it👍🏻🇦🇺
Thank you very much I appreciate it
Very well explained. Thank you for the video.
Glad it was helpful!
I love these vids, so much knowledge. I keep watching them over and over. After these panel vids can you show us how to refine the hammers and dollies. Thank you, appreciate it.
We will have to do that 👍🏻 thanks for watching
Fascinating, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
Fantastic explanation / instruction. I'm waiting delivery of my disc, I would not have ordered one but you've convinced me it's the next skill to learn. Cheers
Awesome!! Thx for watching
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS question for you if you don't mind.
In a perfect world what would be the best way to hold or support a hood skin to stop its own size and weight effecting it's shape?
I've a really bad one to do, it's big. I've got patches to do and damage to repair. I got to remove the inner frame and thought about mounting it in a square frame around its perimeter and then attaching it to some 'A' frames to make a see-saw. Would that work or help?
“Share what you know and continue to learn” HELL YEAH!!! This video series is gold guys. Appreciate the time and the details in them. Thank you 🙌🏼
Thank you Phil!!
Thanks for the new video.
👊🏻🙌🏻👍🏻
brilliant explanations
love your videos
I'm learning heaps thankyou
Very glad to hear thanks for watching
niCe, love the little details!
Thank you! Cheers!
Outstanding..............thanks.
Thank you
Great video
Thanks!
Very good explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
Great work and knowledge thanks big help
Thank you!
The best on CZcams!
Thank you!!
Awesome video, thanks for taking time to share your knowledge. "Share what you know and continue to learn" Agreed with, that all welds shrink. When welding in a patch panel that you have limited access to the back side, have you ever pre stretched the edge of the patch panel and the edge of the cut out before welding? Kinda like pre stretching the area before bead rolling.
No there’s no real way to get a perfect fit up with having an edge pre-stretched. At least I haven’t had any luck with it. Thank you for watching
very well explained.
Glad it was helpful!
Such a good video👌
Thank you!
Thanks again keep them coming I’m supposed to be unboxing all our stuff but I had to stop to see this
Haha thx mike
Appreciate the knowledge
Thanks for watching
Nice Travis.
Thank you!
I always come away with something from your videos and really look forward to them! I'm really curious to see the warped from sandblasting video as I have a 57 chevy that was a victim of this and my once near perfect hood is a mess now. It would be great to fix it , but like you say , buying the tools doesn't make you proficient at using them. Thanks for another gem Travis!
We will be doing that one very soon. Glad you enjoy them!
Very informative
Thank you
Wow! I'm fully an amateur working on a restore of my '78 124 Spider. Had to replace the rear wheel wells and got a small "wave" in the quarterpanel from the heat. Didn't quite know what to do with it. Sure...could have covered it with a gob of body filler, but really excited to try to work it out properly.
👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great video thanks, the part that I find confusing is that you want to shrink the highs and stretch the lows on one side, but if the panel is flipped over the lows are now high. If I use the shrinking disc it will be shrinking the areas that I want to stretch on the other side. That was confusing to type...lol
Good point! Best way to think about it is using a spline to sight the shape in. If you shrink to much it will become flat vs retaining the shape. However I have fixed flat panels by shrink disc and flipping the panel over.
Awesome tutorial brother love your videos
Thank you very much. We’re actually filming another today 🤘🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS awesome looking forward to it
Thanks so much
Thank you!!
That answered a question from my last comment from ep1, but I really want to know more about the plannishing hammer. I have only a cheapy from what you call harbour freight. Really great for stretching out a couple of headlight buckets I made but as controlling the animal that can be hard. I have just bought a Chinese wheel as it is by no means an English wheel., but is braced and looks similar to the blue one in the background. I have seen on the tube where a guy straightened out a badly damaged 58 Biscayne front guard with a English wheel. In the end it was perfect, don't know if it was real now. I will look for the others. Really really good in-depth explanation appreciate the effort you put into all of these videos. I know I am learning so much from you. Thanks
Thank you! We will do a video in the near future
The "Heat shrinker" is new to me, a torch and dolley is the way I learned to shrink. You said that your power unit had to turn 6,000 rpm's. I am thinking of getting one for my project and I see Eastwood has them in three different diameters. I want to get out cheap so I was thinking of the 41/2". But I know that I will get a lot more heat out of a 9" disk than a 41/2" disk. So does a small one work?? Thanks for your great videos. I realize you are in business and that time is money, so I wonder why you do this. This is one of the few thing in the world that I have seen come, that I feel is a good thing. So when I say thank you, I am sincere.
Thank you. The smaller one will only work for tight areas. Otherwise you need the large disk, so that way you are bridging the lows to make a true mirror finish.
Awsome video and def learned some new stuff. But I would have like to see how u started working down a larger dent with a good size crown..so you do more hammer off dolly to rough in the shape then fine tune it with what your doing or?
We typically bump out the panel with dolly only to get it close.
Travis, when you raised the low areas via on-dolly hammering, do you often swing the hammer as hard as you did in this video?
Thank you for these no-nonsense videos!
That is a certain finesse that every dent is different the more you do and learn the better you will get the harder you hit it the more you’ll stretch it which is not what you want to do. You want to slowly bring the dent out
Hi Travis, just found your channel which looks really promising as you explain and demonstrate really well. Would the techniques you use also apply to aluminium as I have a future project which will need flattening dented aluminium body panels on my 1952 Land Rover Series One 80”.
Cheers from the UK.
Thank you very much. Yes, it will also work on aluminum.
Another very helpful video! I am at the same stage with the same issue on my project. Did that Makita grinder come with a flush mount collet for the shrinking disk or if not how did you get it so that you can run the shrinking disk totally flat on the panel without introducing new scratches? I have the proshaper 10 inch shrinking disk looking at buying that Makita grinder. Thank you for your help.
Contact Ken Sakamoto with sunchaser studios he has everything from the nut and the backing plate 👍🏻
And any help with massaging metal back as close to original is helpful the less body filler and polyester the better
Absolutely 💯
Very educational video, I'm learning more with them, by the way! How do you like that evercoat extreme filler?
I like everything but the price 🤣 it’s “extremely high”
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS yeah specially if you buy it from your local store lol.
Good Video , my comment is wouldn’t be better to put the brace back in and fit it to car and then start working the hood
In order to get all of the lows out it was right where the brace was. This is actually getting a custom-made brace since the other one was butchered. We will final fit everything exactly to the body and then the bodywork will begin. There will be more on this truck in the near future when we get it back from the builder.
Cool, i am learning, thanks. What about shrinking highs with "spotter dent puller" and "carbon rod heating"??? -(sorry for my english)- and, All this techniques work for modern cars??? thank you.
You can shrink metal with those methods but it won’t get it perfect.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS oh thank you. Regards.
Excellent information. I wish your video had been available years ago when I bought my shrinking disk. I got the panel close enough for, but if I ever repaint I'll be able to get it perfect.
Question. Your disc is serrated. Why is that? The one I have is smooth.
Thank you. Yes Ken Sakamoto’s sunchaser disc comes serrated it creates more heat than the smooth ones. It also creates a higher pitch when on the high areas so you can tell when you are rubbing the right spot. I have both smooth and serrated once I used this one I never went back.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS cool, thanks.
Amazing. I don't have a shrinking disk yet. Can I use these methods with a torch? Obviously there's more heat involved so I'd have to move faster and adjust my technique, but wondering if it would be a waste of time to even try.
Torch will ruin a panel quickly don’t try it.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS ok, I will imagine you said that in a stern foreboding voice, lol
Great Vid. Say you have a roof that is perfect but where there is no support it is a little say ``flimsy`` when sanding on it. Can i just reinforce it underneath with strips of fiberglass cloth? or does it matter at all? 1970 SS Nova
Um…. Did you watch the video??
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I guess I need to watch it again lol
have you made the video on how to fix the sandblasted hood yet? i do not see it in your library
Not yet we will start breaking down the process soon one thing at a time
Great video. I'm panel beating a low crown roof that was sand blasted. I'm using a shrinking disc, a hammer, dolly and a slapper. The work is painfully slow. The roof top surface has many convex bulges about 12 inches diameter.
They are not very high and are the result of sand blasting the underside. Do I need to use the disc on the entire bulge or can I work on it in sections? Also if this is OK do I work from the outside towards the centre?
Use a block and only rub where you have the highs start in the good areas first. So if you start using the rubbing of the shrinking disc in the center of a high area that is bulged out you will get a better result if you only use it where the block scratches first as it starts to shrink more of it will have a contact patch as it gets closer to flat.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks for your super fast reply! I've been using you method today and am making progress. To gain confidence I started with the less difficult areas. There is however a large bulge nearby waiting to devour me!
Thanks again,
Mike
What is the difference between the serated shrinking disk and a regular shrinking disc.
The serated disc allows you to tune in and listed for the higher pitch so you know when you are directly on a high.
Bought the tools, tried, failed, watching the video for the third time 😂
What did you buy? What are you struggling with?
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I got a shrinking disc, dycome blue, sanding blocks, random orbital sander, hammer and dollys and some files. Basically, the hardest part I’m finding is figuring out what the original level is. I can get things pretty straight relative to each other but end up too high or low in places and keep messing with it until I get frustrated and…back to the videos. The good news is, after I watch the video and go back out there it’s not that bad and to be honest probably more of a patience problem or I think it’s worse than it is issue. I guess the main issue is getting things perfect, I can get it pretty good but dialing in the final imperfections I tend to overwork it, get frustrated and go backwards. Anyway, I love your videos, been super helpful. Learning about stretching the metal by hammer on dolly was a game changer for me. Final thing, I’m working with pretty munched up sheet metal so it’s not like I’m hurting it but it’s a 55 Chevy first series truck so I’m trying my hardest to not screw it up. Thanks again for your videos!
@@Stoked778 I can tell you what your going through is very normal. I went a very long time and hundreds of hours till certain things clicked for me. I use splines to guage what’s good and what’s low it helps a lot. Second is start in the areas that are the closest to good that you can find. It’s absolutely a patience and finesse thing. It has humbled me many times. But you are on the right path watching the video over and over will help every time you struggle watch it again and you’ll get something else from it. Thanks for watching!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thank you for taking time to reply! Btw, the jeep hood videos are some of the most helpful on CZcams I’ve found by far!
ok, i get the idea of the shrinking disc ....but my situation. i am replacing door panel lowers (1951 chevy 3100), i have an access hole but its limited as to how much i can get my hand and arm inside to dolly the back(inside the door skin at the weld seam)and hammer and slapper bar the outside... for the most part its going well, but i had a spot (wave) about 4 inches in diameter that is currently convex to the outer door skin that i need to get shrunk down . what would you advise doing to do just that? i do not own a shrinking disc.
Kinda hard to explain not being able to see the door. It’s not uncommon to carefully remove areas of the inner door to gain better access then once you fix the area weld it all back in. But if you don’t own a disc you need to buy one I don’t have an alternative
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS do you have an email or place i could send you a few pictures of the door. I got most of it out hand planishing. I have a palm sized low up by the door handle hole i never welded on , so its got to be oil canning from where i welded and ground it down. I do have to cut a 6x9 speaker hole behind it. Maybe i can get a dolly behind it and slowly work it out .
Hi Sylvester. What would the ratio on 4:1 2k primer be it you want to use it as a sealer? Would you add reducer like 2:1:1 to thin it out for a smooth finish not requiring any sanding so I can just go right to base coat after it has flashed?? I spray motorcycle frames and don't have to fuss over much but when I sand the old finish some bare metal comes out and I want to just spot those small areas with a thin coat of self etching primer but on one of your videos I heard that you shouldn't spray base coat over self etching primer? Could I spray a thin coat of self etching primer thin a reduced coat of 2k then go to base coat. Also what about just self etching then a thin coat of rattle can primer, these spots are usually an inch or les in size? Thank you in advance.
All products vary however refer to your TDS sheet. Me personally I’d use epoxy primer then spray my base over that.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I figured you would go that way and I want to try the epoxy but with bikes, waiting 2-3 days for the epoxy to cure is a lot to ask. When I finally burn through the 2k I have I will try the PPG epoxy and report in my videos. Thank you for taking the time for all of us!
@@JTSCUSTOMS 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
How do I find a Ken Sakamoto shrinking disc? Also, do you use a 4.5" shrinking disc in small areas? If so, what RPM?
I found Ken on instagram or Google sunchaser shrinking disc. He’s old school you just call him.
As for small disc I haven’t needed smaller one.
My 7 inch grinder is rated at 8000 rpms before load. Would this work with the shrinking disc? I promise not to blame you if I hurt myself. LOL
🤣🤣🤣 yeah it should be fine
I have an oil can situation but the panel isn’t dented.
Just because you can’t see the dent doesn’t mean the metal is correct or relaxed. If you follow what to do through all three series of videos you can fix it.
Are those Sunchaser disk sold online? I can’t find them.
I’m having a tough time on the back of my cab which is a 87 k10 Chevy. It had a decent sized dent in circumference, not real deep. I’m self learning a lot of it. I used my stud gun to pull and hammer and got a lot of it back out but I am getting oil canning. So I heated it up and tapped and cooled quick. I cannot get a dolly behind the panel cuz the inner cab panel has no access to outer. So I have a lot of dimples from the stud gun and it’s a little wonky. I straight edged it and there shouldn’t be no more than a 1/16th of filler in the deepest spot. Is that ok!? I feel I’m being a little ocd cuz of the little higher spots caused from the stud gun pulling. Demotes will be hid behind filler but my brain wants me to smooth up metal a little better but I just don’t have any access for a dolly and hammer to smooth it up.
Sometimes you have to remove the inner panels and weld them back in. Just depends on how good you want it. We have classes this month and one in June if you are interested. Email sylvesterscustoms@yahoo.com
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS These online classes ?
No in person hands on.
I can respect all the hard work but ultimately you are always going to have some type of filler be hand applied body filler or a sprayable filler
Agreed we say that in the video 👍🏻 even the best metal finishes get filler 🙌🏻
Sorry I would really like to watch your video I am somewhat experienced with metal fabrication processing etc but brother just understand when you repeat yourself over and over again I can no longer hold focus on what you're trying to say quit repeating yourself man get to the point move on thank you
Then learn it from someone else that simple.
can you use that makita for buffing and polishing as well
Negative it’s 6k rpm for a shrink disc and only about 2500rpm for polishers give or take.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thanks man