What surprised me is you got off without a torrence offset face step on the round one (on the square one it'd eliminate the need for filing). After the combine (cut) step I'd always offset face by between 0.15 and 0.3mm and play around with the offset to get the friction I wanted. Didn't realize the round one might still work without this!
He built the offset into the sketch. There's already a 0.2mm offset between the vertical walls. The only thing that doesn't have an offset is the little protrusion. In fact the little protrusion is the only thing that gets subtracted, since the rest of the sweep doesn't even touch the lid.
I've been exploring other CAD packages and I've got to say the offset plane F360 offers is really awesome. I'm still figuring out how to get around it in other packages such as Freecad.
Hi been thinking to put a hole at the top and put some water inside to mold the ice will it no leak? Hope you will reply to this and do you mind download the stl file to thinkverse ☺️
I think you are referring to sketching out the lever. There isn't much of a secret there I think. You can add angle constraints to all the corners you want.
The only thing I see that is problematic is that there’s no allowance for thermal expansion. Simply subtracting one part from another will create a joint that when printed may function, but will be expanded.
thanks for this! what would you suggest on a design for hollow sphere that will be smooth in the inside as well. im trying to build an arduino controlled bb8. thanks!
Sounds like a great project. I suggest you make it thick enough so there is no flex while rolling. And recess the edge on one by half that thickness and extend it on the other half. And make sure you have a good undercut, so the two halves are flush on the inside. See page 20 on this document if you really want to perfect it (though I suggest you don't over analyze it :) ). fab.cba.mit.edu/classes/S62.12/people/vernelle.noel/Plastic_Snap_fit_design.pdf p.s.: Have a look at the Sphero BB8 if you haven't already.
@@dreamonwardi really appreciate your reply and suggestions! that sphero bb8 is pretty cool! the one im building will probably not patrol, just move left, right, fwd and back, hahaha
version: 2.0.9313 Though I must note. I'm not using it anymore. The $500/year cost is simply to excessive. I'm still searching for a decent alternative and I'm planning to make some video's on the alternatives.
Nothing special, just the default Prusa 0.15mm PLA setting with the original roll of filament. I think it's showing "(modified)" because I checked "Brim". In all fairness, some of the chamfers are probably to small to actually show up in the print.
@@dreamonward eyy..you reply both my question, thanks..i tried make it to, but it was too thin and snap easily, you got any tips? thanks for replying, im new to 3d printing
@@aguywithlaptopand3dprinter I'm quite new to the whole 3D printing myself. I've found that for my printer 2mm walls are sturdy. 1mm thick features are flexible. Prints tend to snap along the layer lines. So if possible, try bending parts along the layer. In practice that means a cantilever joint will be printed flat onto the bed. Do note that I did not do that in the video. The joints in this lever have highest stress precisely on those layer lines. But it worked for this demo.
I think your video would’ve been more effective if you showed us in physical or visual form at the beginning what you were sketching. Not knowing what you were working toward made the sketching pointless to watch.
![Notched Twisting Lock Tutorial for [ Shapr3D ]](/img/n.gif)
Watching this coming from tinkercad is like finding out metal knives exist when you've been using sharp wood to cut things
Great video! Thank you for also showing the finished 3d-printed parts and the problems you ran into!
Finally an on point snap joint that I’m satisfied attempting. Thank you
Great! I was seraching for a solution to create a snap function and here I found it! Thanks so much for posting this video.
Thanks for the video! I love it how you also show the things that didn't go well.
just learned many tools in interface from this tutorial, thank you
What surprised me is you got off without a torrence offset face step on the round one (on the square one it'd eliminate the need for filing).
After the combine (cut) step I'd always offset face by between 0.15 and 0.3mm and play around with the offset to get the friction I wanted. Didn't realize the round one might still work without this!
He built the offset into the sketch. There's already a 0.2mm offset between the vertical walls. The only thing that doesn't have an offset is the little protrusion. In fact the little protrusion is the only thing that gets subtracted, since the rest of the sweep doesn't even touch the lid.
Good stuff, thanks for showing your failures as this is important to see!
I had **NO** clue you could construct a plane and anchor a sketch to it!! This will be so incredibly useful. 😭 Awesome video, thank you!
Thats why I don't use F360 anymore - its unnecessarily complex, even after years of using it.
@@WerHatDieKokosnussit’s for professionals that spend all day in it.
I've been exploring other CAD packages and I've got to say the offset plane F360 offers is really awesome. I'm still figuring out how to get around it in other packages such as Freecad.
@@dreamonward wow u are alive, please post more videos
@@WerHatDieKokosnuss skill issue
lovely, the annular join is lovely. thank you for sharing.
Outstanding, you make it look so EASY!
It was amazing how you made a connection between two bodies in the sketch. Really useful knowledge. :)
This is the easiest way I've seen this done. Thank you. I just subscribed also. I'll see if you have more videos like this.
Excellent video and very good English for a Dutchman.
Very informative. I had no idea that you could do this in fusion. Thank you for sharing.
So when Harstem's not playing SC2 he's making CAD tutorials. Nice!
Oof, I was hoping my Dutch accent wasn't coming through that much :). And I can only dream on playing SC2 that well.
This is what I'm exactly looking.. wonderful video. Please do more similar kinds of video's
Thanks for this great video! Following along to improve my Fusion360 skills..
Very nice 👍 thanks. It's lot of hard work and tries. Thanks for sharing both the failure and final success.
Wow! What a great tutorial. Thank you so much for sharing this.
This is a great video as you are covering many techniques to solve a problem. Thanks
gonna see if this will do the job for my capstone project, my original pinch fitting did not work as intended, lets see how this goes
I would be great if you could give actual measurements of the profile. Its hard to copy without them.
Thank you VERY much for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you. You are an excellent teacher.
hey do you have solidworks files of the parts, excellent work btw thumbs upp
I tried printing this out with no supports and it messed up at the end :(
Great looking design 👍
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Hey thanks a lot this was a great video
You made that dead simple, was great.
I wonder if you came in at the top of the protrusion .001-.003 at 40degrees rounded how much it would help if at all
Hi been thinking to put a hole at the top and put some water inside to mold the ice will it no leak? Hope you will reply to this and do you mind download the stl file to thinkverse ☺️
can you create an action to create this when you click on the shortcut/action and if you can, can you do this with any item?
great video. learned some fusion tricks :D
Great video. I am stuck on the sweep and can't get all the corners to join at 45°. Is there a secret? I'm using a windows PC not mac.
I think you are referring to sketching out the lever. There isn't much of a secret there I think. You can add angle constraints to all the corners you want.
i tried to do this with the shape of a logo but cant get it to work out...
thanks for sharing!
hey man, nice tip. why did you not put cut out the top part in the Rectangular design ? that part wasnt clear
Waran dv, it did not work for him as intended, because the plastic wasn't flexible enough. It effectively became a friction fit.
What if the shapes custom/abstract?
Amazing. How to make it more snug or even a permanent one?
The only thing I see that is problematic is that there’s no allowance for thermal expansion. Simply subtracting one part from another will create a joint that when printed may function, but will be expanded.
Thanks for the class! :)
very clear .. thank you
thanks for this! what would you suggest on a design for hollow sphere that will be smooth in the inside as well. im trying to build an arduino controlled bb8. thanks!
Sounds like a great project.
I suggest you make it thick enough so there is no flex while rolling. And recess the edge on one by half that thickness and extend it on the other half.
And make sure you have a good undercut, so the two halves are flush on the inside.
See page 20 on this document if you really want to perfect it (though I suggest you don't over analyze it :) ). fab.cba.mit.edu/classes/S62.12/people/vernelle.noel/Plastic_Snap_fit_design.pdf
p.s.: Have a look at the Sphero BB8 if you haven't already.
@@dreamonwardi really appreciate your reply and suggestions! that sphero bb8 is pretty cool! the one im building will probably not patrol, just move left, right, fwd and back, hahaha
Good expirementing 🙏
Very informative.
thank you
thanks for the good content
Great video, very clear!
what version of fusion 360 are you using?
version: 2.0.9313
Though I must note. I'm not using it anymore. The $500/year cost is simply to excessive. I'm still searching for a decent alternative and I'm planning to make some video's on the alternatives.
@@dreamonward there is a free version for home use
what is your setting to print that small detail?
Nothing special, just the default Prusa 0.15mm PLA setting with the original roll of filament. I think it's showing "(modified)" because I checked "Brim".
In all fairness, some of the chamfers are probably to small to actually show up in the print.
@@dreamonward eyy..you reply both my question, thanks..i tried make it to, but it was too thin and snap easily, you got any tips? thanks for replying, im new to 3d printing
@@aguywithlaptopand3dprinter I'm quite new to the whole 3D printing myself.
I've found that for my printer 2mm walls are sturdy. 1mm thick features are flexible.
Prints tend to snap along the layer lines. So if possible, try bending parts along the layer. In practice that means a cantilever joint will be printed flat onto the bed.
Do note that I did not do that in the video. The joints in this lever have highest stress precisely on those layer lines. But it worked for this demo.
@@dreamonward that make sense..i'll try print the object horizontally onto the bed..thanks never though of that before
I think your video would’ve been more effective if you showed us in physical or visual form at the beginning what you were sketching. Not knowing what you were working toward made the sketching pointless to watch.
Something doesnt looks right here. Some simple changes to the disigne could make it much cleaner.
then do it and show us
I printed that 1:1 and it broke after one use...
Well this just solved a problem I have been working around by recreating everything twice but once in reverse....