Is This Ruining Rock Climbing?
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- čas přidán 14. 11. 2023
- If you're a fan of dynos and rock climbing in general, go to r/ChurchofDynology and join the community now!
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Question Mark · Dream Cave
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#climbing #bouldering #IFSC #competition #climbingstuff - Sport
I love parkour and I love climbing. Static and dynamic climbing are both very fun, just don't want to see one of the two take over completely.
Me too, I love a dyno and love a Crimpy slab.
Exactly how I would of said it, I would even say I like Dynamic more but the point of competitive anything is to see who is the best and if you cant do both to a really high level you cant really compare to someone who can
none will take over, stuff goes in phases of popularity, but it's all still around. and comp climbing isn't all climbing.
Not possible. Take over completely means they become the same thing.
@@M3LuckyNo, what? Take over in this case would be for one to push the other out of the scene, not for them to become the same thing tf? Reading comprehension bro 😂
i do kind of agree with adam ondra, dynos are cool and flashy but about 50% of the comb climbs need a dyno at this point and i think that may be a bit too mutch at this point. if there was 1 dyno at every set of boulders i would say thats a good way of setting but they are using them way to much. but i do really like slab climbing so maby its just me.
comp* much* maybe*
it's*
It seems thats not the vision the IFSC has with climbing as an "urban sport" with stages like meiringen beeing forgoten. Btw as you said cordination dynos are realy high frequent while for example crag climbing is a once a year thing.
Main point Adam Ondra raises is that comp climbing as it is now is just much harder on the body than outdoor climbing which is a shame cause we're seeing climbers retire younger than before
Honestly as much as I like watching the current world cup circuit I understand how this can be way too hard for anyone above 30
@@motherlove8366 The current bouldering world champion, Mikael Mawem, is 33 though
As much as I like watching Dynos, I don't think it is helping the community to see more and more of it. It just got a bit too much and to an extent I'd agree with that intro clip of "glorified parkour". That is where it kind of is right now at least in my eyes.
Infidel! INFIDEEEEL
I have a bunch of climbers at my gym that can Dyno V6/7 but can’t crimp V3
If you dont like this style of climbing... noone is making you do it. Its not like gyms are taking away the crags
Go outside oldhead😂
You have to drive interest to casuals to create a profitable sport
Dynos significantly increase the chance of injuries. Ondra has gotten shoulder problems from crazy moves in comps that you would never find outside. It’s a totally different sport, and I feel like the gap is getting even bigger. I don’t even do local comps anymore cause it’s so much different than actual climbing, but sure it’s cool to watch
6:55 … Actually, the difference between Toby Segar and … anything … is the fact that Toby Segar has an anomalous amount of of raw talent and skill. It’s no surprise that the athleticism of rock climbing translates to other adventure & strength based sports. It’s not surprising that Free Runners can dyno. What is surprising, is that Toby can keep up with the Wide Boys on his first swing at crack climbing! The guy is a freak of nature.
He trained bouldering on the side for a while if I'm not mistaken. He's far from a beginner (I mean like already when he sent rainbow rocket)
What differentiates Toby from random parkour guys is the amount of climbing with elite climbers Toby had already done up to that point
Actually, if your body is build well enough for the task and you're good at learning movement (which he has to be), it's very possible to do a lot of stuff. Especially if an expert gives you guidance.
People keep bringing up Toby as if he's only done parkour and then just randomly decided to do Rainbow Rocket. The man climbs a lot!
If anything one could say that Dynos could ruin Climbing championships. But traditional rock climbing will always be possible by just going outside and doing ROCK climbing. So it's more like the comp/indoor style creates another branch. The old branch doesn't have to whither for the tree to grow.
The problem with dynos that the ISFC is setting is that it will depend on the heights of the climbers. They have always made the holds bad to force separation, but it just highlighted the fact that certain moves are more difficult depending on height. If it was a static climb, the climbers can find their own way and make it work, but if there is only 1 possible move, there's bound to be some heights it was impossible for. In a straight up vertical leap guess who favors it if you put it high enough.
Like this one start move this year, where Mori couldn't jump up to. That was so annoying. I love to see her climb.
This argument has never held up for me. If that was so, then professional climbing would look like the NBA. But it doesn't. Height provides litte advantage at the peak of the sport.
@@bsweat are you stupid. Short or Tall gets disadvantage in certain moves. The winner are those on the middle heights. That's why the difficulty will depend on your height. This is assuming they are on a similar level regarding techniques.
@bsweat: I don't think the argument is that being taller is generally an advantage but that sometimes a route's difficulty is simply and primarily manipulated by the distance between two holds, requiring a dynamic move. In these cases, greater reach/limb length is advantageous.
Although I am a 1.98m giant myself, I even do not enjoy these scenarios or such a trend in set bouldering routes, for two reasons: 1) It is not joyful and does not feel "earned" when sending a route simply because of an advantage in reach, and 2) this kind of route setting and manipulation of difficulty is simply very dumb and does not foster movement complexity (it is literally an approach of "oh, it is too easy, let's move the hold another 5 cm further away")
But they set a variety of moves on multiple boulder problems. Some of those moves may favor a taller person, but they can also set compression moves which favor someone shorter. Both heights will struggle, but at different parts of the competition.
I think pro setters are very, very aware of height-dependent moves and really work hard to make sure the competition move set is as fair as possible.
Toby Segar’s also been training climbing for at least the last couple years, so he’s wasn’t “just parkour” when he hit Rainbow Rocket.
And he also did Red Rocket, a V12(13?) to the right of Rainbow Rocket
As I get older I want to do fewer dynos because of the risk of injury. If dynos take over bouldering that would be very harmful to climbing in my opinion. I have no issue with a mix, though I suck at dynos, I really love watching them. I am the throwing chud you're talking about lol.
Counter point though, local climbing centers still need to make money, and they'd never make nearly the amount of money they need to if they replaced all their walls with dynos, they need the new people and static climbing people and dynos are no place for a new climber, so I wouldn't be concerned about hobby static climbing disappearing
True, static climbing is staying but comp climbing is taking over. I generally like the outdoor style better but I climb what I can get.
@@SanityDoesNotSell I mean to be fair, save some massive technological revolution giving way to unheard of geoforming technologies outdoor climbing is the only kind of climbing that truly isn't going anywhere
@@ImMimicute When you do a hobby, it is always encouraging to feel that you do 'a real thing' . I
@@dmitripogosian5084 that's true and I get that, a bog part of me picking up running was thinking about how humans advantage was to out run it's pray at a long distances as opposed to full sprint and realising I couldn't do that, but even then the rocks and mountains that climbing is based on aren't going anywhere and local climbing centers will still always have standard static paths to use you know?
Don’t mind dynos but these paddle dynos are pretty boring
What I hate about dynos is simply the prevalence of dynos in my gym. The put up new routes today, I checked them out and literally 80% of them had a dangerous dyno. Also I hate that dynos aren't really repeatable. If you made it once, doesn't mean you gonna get it next time. With static moves you usually have to figure out the technique and then you can repeat it until you wear out.
I am a parkour guy who has been practicing bouldering the last couple of years. You can consistently send dynos if you have the technique down, as well as the finger and contact strength. The problem is that you need a lot of time to properly learn how to do it safely.
If I remember correctly, Thousands of years ago, the people of the andes climbed to astounding elevations to create graves/burials on high mountains.
I believe they were the first masters of the rocks and mountains
I wonder if someone did a sick paddle dyno with a mummy on his back.
@@Tantalpyro "This one's for you, dad!"
Then he fell and his mother said let's bury them down here for the next few thousand years
Wow- how old are you?
“Take your hand off the wall. This isn’t a public restroom” 😂😂
As rock climber and having mentors who are in their 50s & 60, even 70s, they all told me that its better outdoors and indoor climbing will somehow get you strong & climb V9 indoors; thus, thinking you can climb the same grade outdoors? I have seen insane indoor climbers do dynos and swings, standing & balancing on these huge volume holds, and it is impressive. In reality, that doesn't really happen on real rock, well it can but it is rare. Also climbing has changed a lot. Like Alain Robert (French Spiderman) said "For me, climbing was not about racing or competing, it was about freedom and self-expression, as climbing became more popular, they began adding more regulations and rules and became more like a sport, .... it was no longer about adventure & I did not want to compete against others, but against on myself and against the cliff, alone and in my hands" Also as I noticed this a lot in climbing gyms, phones, social media and peoples boastful "me me me generation" is also entertaining. 😅 But as a full-time employee, climbing gyms atleast keep me sane and in fitness to keep the ball rolling I guess, when it gets dark after work, or I don't have time to drive to the mountain. So it has its pros and cons. But even if parkour and dyno gym climbers take over, to me it would be good because I rather have actual "rock climbing" how it used to be, very obscure, not trendy. I never bothered joining the comp, instead I rather be far away alone climbing in the beautiful outdoors instead of being in the matrix. But to each its own... Great video though!
great comment. Totally agree, I'd rather be climbing with my group of 3-4 climbing friends by a cliff in the middle of nowhere.
@@Protoman888 Thank you and yes! Here in my hometown in Texas, there is this year-old climbing gym, it's a nice one too, but ever since they've opened back in August 2022, many climbers have been attracted to that place and we even realized that they prefer being more in the gym than outdoors as well. I also noticed that the mountains are less occupied than before, but the only ones you see outside are these climbers from around the world since it's the season right now (thus also a few local climbers who actually rock climb more outdoors than indoors, basically the ones that already have been rock climbing way before the gym was built). So then again, the gym is doing us a favor by keeping these gummbies away from the mountains. Cheers Mate!!!
Even if the Laval qualifier kinda disproved that point, the thing is also that hard crimpy problems are not challenging enough for modern comp climbers. When the entire field can do front lever on a hang board, having them just pull hard on small holds doesn’t create separation. Dynos are a way to create low percentage moves that showcase the ability of the climbers to learn and adapt (in less than 4 mn). A static “outdoor-y” boulder in a comp would be either too hard for everyone or would be flashed by everyone.
And I know that the crimpy boulder in Laval was too hard for almost everyone while the dyno boulder was basically flashed by everyone, which entirely disproves my point. But still. 50% of the time it works all the time.
@@PPKFilms Maybe the field got worse on crimps due to all the dyno training :D.
I have to say though that with the worlds and the olympic qualifiers I feel that the dyno-heavy setting was tuned down. There was always a slab, a very physical boulder, a complex coordination/dyno boulder and an easy one that basically everyone topped. So a quite good balance actually.
@PPKFilms Damn that's a boulder I would like to see! So that was in qualifiers? I can't find any video from the qualifiers. Could it be just that in the European championship qualifiers, not all climbers are the usual world cup finalist level athletes, so it looked harder than it actually was? 🤔
@@M0dEliteno it was the Olympic qualifier, but I believe it was M1 in the finals. It’s on CZcams you can check it out. Slightly blurry memory but it was either M1 or M2 of the finals, or M1 of the semis. My money is on M1 finals cause I think only one person did it out of a small field of the strongest people in the game. Like Ondra couldn’t send and I think nobody here would argue that he is too much of a jumpy dyno comp style climber.
@@corinnar2812I feel that the entire season of world cups was with that balance : power, slab, dyno and wild card. I think it’s even how the setters actually go at it.
I started parkour in 2006 and got into climbing in 2014 because of dynos. Since then the influence of parkour in climbing and vice versa has only inscreased. In parkour it has become common to use chalk in bars i.e. Haters gonna hate no matter what... In mid 2000's parkour complained of those who did flips labelling them Freerunners... At the end of the day the reason for dynos and flips being accepted is the awe it causes in spectators, which atracts sponsors.
As a routesetter, I can tell you two very simple reasons for why dynos are standard in comp climbs: separation and readability. If you want to make a route that will give you a clear 1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc. place in the competition, you want to make one with low-percentage moves, or ones that are easy to miss. Dynos are easy to slip up on and can easily cost a climber an extra attempt, which will put them behind another climber who took one less, even if they both top. Another simple reason for dynos in comps is readability. Modern bouldering competitions only give the climber four minutes to complete the climb, so the beta has to be readable within that time while also testing the climber's strength. Unlike a hard outdoor send that requires weeks, months, or years of projecting where intense micro-beta can be thoroughly locked down, comp climbs need to be readable within a short time frame. Dynos are straightforward, especially for a competition climber who has a good degree of practice with them, and the difficulty therein comes from actually doing the move, not figuring it out. This isn't to say competition climbs completely lack beta (obviously), but only that dynos offer an easy way to set a low percentage move that will create separation between competitors while also demanding a lot of physical power without the intense micro-beta and repetition that crimps on overhang usually does.
While this is all true, it makes it so that the people that practice the sports (regular boulderers) cannot relate with what is going on in the competition, because this is not the predominant style set and climbed in the gym (or outdoors). Mostly because it is too injury-prone.
@@andreasabels589 This is true. What most people must realize, however, is that comp style, as well as indoor climbing in general, is really it's own discipline at this point. While indoor, outdoor, and comp climbing are obviously all related and have mutual skill sets, they are unique in the specific things they focus on. With time, they will continue to evolve and differentiate from one another as they already have, so one should know not to expect an IFSC comp set to look anything like a typical commercial route, which in turn won't look anything like an outdoor boulder.
@@andreasabels589 and that always works against mass appeal of a sport
Actually, Billy Bob Thornton popularized dynos back in the 70s. Also, you completely mischaracterized comp climbing. And you know, the Soviet Union actually DID feed its people.
One thing I admire comp climbers for is that ability to go from dynamic to static, powerful to slab, it's hard enough to co-ordinate your body well for one style, but this requires RE-co-ordinating quickly
I love dynos, i love overhang crimps. But one thing I really hate is static slab climbing. It just scares the living shit out of me. I brutally scraped my shin on a volume and the trauma began.
I am absolutely terrified of dynos 😂
Dude just saw that Rungne has Church of Dynology merch, and they look dope! You made it in life
doing dynos for the first time lets me realise how hard they really are, and even though they look hard they are even harder to do as not only do you need the skill to do it, but you need the confidence and lack of fear to jump
I started climbing at a comp-style gym, and really enjoyed dynos. But now I moved to a new city for school and my wall is one of the natural rock walls. I have turned into a trad dad and I prefer to train static moves. I want to break back into comp style, does anyone who has had a similar character arc have any tips for getting back into dynamic boulders?
It's not that outdoor rocks aren't conducive to dynamic movements. Actually a lot of them really are. It's more that outdoor boulders are a lot more likely to hurt you if you miss.
it looks cool when the best and most talented athletes perform it... its for show, but for normal mortals its the best and fastest way to get serious injuries and maybe stop climbing at all due to them
The more I do dynos indoors, the more I see dynos outdoors… there’s one particular site that’s as yet pretty undeveloped where there’s a v4 traverse that moves under like three potential dyno lines.
"Mother Nature is a Trad Dad"
Please make this a T-shirt
Ruined it years ago, then it recovered, now they're ruining it again.
I have been bouldering for 9 years now and have experienced the change to more dynamic setting, i dont like it, seems mor like parcour to me than actual climbing
I love dynos but ye there are too many dynos in pro climbing
How dare you speak blasphemy against the church
@@Kingzzxepic hey, I live the church, but we don't need no track and field routes in our climbing comps
Have been climbing for 8 years.
The way how the "meta" has changed is wild.
Even thought dynos are not my cup of tea, i've been open to improve at 'em, have to admit they are fun, but now people are forgetting other climbing styles, which makes harder for beginners and other type of climbers to adapt
I've been calling bouldering "vertical parkour" for a year or 2 now, it's a very sad state we're in.
These videos crack me up so much! Excellent writing!
The only dyno i like are jump one single big hole with no coordination movement. Since all the other dyno move like coordination, paddle etc are more popular because of the comp scene, it's becoming more popular in my own gym and seeing less bolders that i like and more complicated dyno ruinning my rock climbing univer.
And a quick answer to "why you would even want indoor climbing to be an exact replica of outdoor climbing" : it is very simple, to make it more accessible to more people. You can't build outdoor boulder but you can build climbing gym (and its a pain in the ass to climb when it's too cold in the winter or too hot in summer).
Love the take, love how you lay it out there right when you ask the titular question
your right about that whole slab climbing is cooler than overhang thing tho
Soo true
im not opposed to dynos in competition climbing. i just wish there was LESS dynos. especially on the men's side where it feels like every other problem is "run along the wall and 360 into a 5 move paddle dyno".
i dont really care that it "doesnt accurately represent outdoor climbing" like yeah duh of course it doesn't.
but it's almost to the point where it doesnt really represent the indoor climbing experience either.
i think professional climbers SHOULD need to show their proficiency at dynos to show they're the best. but thats just one skill of many in bouldering and i think that it gets weighed disproportionally high compared to other skills.
plus its just boring and frustrating watching pros throw themselves at the wall for 4 minutes, on a problem with a cookie-cutter solution that leaves no room for any out of the box thinking, expression or differing climbing styles.
Eu aprendi escalar nas montanhas e usava as academias para manter e até mesmo melhorar minha escalada nas montanhas, mas percebia que algumas pessoas tinham nas academias seus objetivos finais. Pessoas que não demonstravam interesse em esfalar ao ar livre. Na minha opinião são esportes distintos com atletas e público diferenciado
Is that crinoid cave at mad river gorge at 7:37? I was just there the other day.
I like it when IFSC sets in a way that makes it possible to do a move both statically and dynamically. Indeed we do see this often, that some climbers find a static beta for a move that the setters intended to be dynamic and vice versa. I don't think there should be more than one of the four comp boulders that require really big dynamic moves though. It's boring to watch a final with just a bunch of swinging and jumping and big falls. The most interesting part is seeing climbers problem solve. Watching them try a dyno over and over the same way but just not being able to hit it... that's boring.
I watched a recent comp which was all dynos, and poor Ai, the incredible but tiny Japanese climber literally just couldn't reach the holds no matter how much she jumped. There was no alternative way of doing them, she just had to keep trying and it wasn't just boring, it was really disappointing because she does incredible stuff when they give climbers room to do weird stuff.
Your content is getting better and better, keep it up mate!
There have been dynos in a lot of the recent IFSC lead climbing routes.
I don't dislike dynos at all, but I'm a static climber 99.9 % of the time, but i think dynos should definitely stay. we just should cut back of them a bit more for ifsc climbing. i want to see less dynos and more of other techniques
To me, the coolest climbing feats in the world are Adam Ondra's first ascent (and only) of Silence 9C and Alex Honnolds free solo and speed climb record on El Caps nose. I've never looked at a comp climbing competition that will be taken down within a day and thought it was anywhere near outdoor climbs. Rock climbing is so cool because we have history and future to look at, because this stone will remain untouched for the most part for decades and centuries.
"Are Dyno's ruining rock climbing?"
Yes, indoor climbing and outdoor climbing have become almost different sports at this point.
If you wanna train indoors for the outdoors (because say weather's bad or something), good luck finding a gym that has a good amount of relevant routes/problems...
And it actually annoys me that many people (who have never climbed outdoors or only done so a couple of times) think that ROCK (emphasis on ROCK) climbing is that glorified parkour...thing...
Most gyms have training boards and spray walls. Thats what all the pros are using to train for outside. I suppose that should suffice for you as well.
@@corinnar2812not in italy, we only have moonboard and kilterboard in like 0.001% of italian gyms..., the japan walls are quite shitty if there are.
Good video! It’s was very interesting to listen to you talk about this subject.
On another matter, a subject that grinds my gears is when someone uses the
“X is just glorified Y”
about something, where X is something they don’t like and Y is not something inherently bad.
Example from the martial arts world:
“Capoeira is just glorified dancing / breakdancing”.
I’m personally pretty neutral about capoeira but there is no need to put dancing down. In the same way I don’t like it when climbers and traceurs/free-runners puts the other community down in the same way.
This is why female comp is more interesting. Personally it's more technical and less jumpy; however, thats also changing now as well
This is so true.
That’s a shame to hear. I enjoy dynos because I’m light but I got into rock climbing because I wanted to climb not jump.
"indoor climbing isn't real climbing that outdoor is" okay cool go outdoors and leave me alone I'm doing just fine
Im over 6 foot so i find that i rarely need dynos, even if im looking to skip sections. But im also really insecure when i HAVE to dyno. I think theres merit to training in it, but i just worry that my weight is gonna tear them pulleys like lil cobwebs
You've brought up an important point. Is climbing going to pivot towards gymnastics and only tiny people get to excel? Or worse, is winning going to be facilitated by an eating disorder?
@@susanholl5994I think it’s awkward. Being short has an obvious advantage for dynamic movements but setting boulders based on reach sometimes completely blanks truly short climbers. I hope the extremes don’t become so fascinating that either end of the spectrum becomes an absolute liability.
@@thunderball11111 I think there is the same advantages and disadvantages for height as there is for regular climbing. Taller people have more reach and can thus bridge larger distances with dynos. Shorter people weigh less and thus can have a higher strength to weight ratio which helps with landing a dyno as they are not as likely to make up for long reach with just power.
@@Henry-qt3py Yeah reaching dynos can be an issue when you're small for sure especially if they're big movements but a lot of competition syles ones seem to be numerous small movements and steer away from just having single huge dynos.
@@thunderball11111 gotcha
I made tomoa sign my jacket , best decision of my life
It gave me + 10 dyno technique
in team boulder arena?
I actually see Tomoa Narasaki pretty often at my local climbing Gym in Innsbruck😎
Did you compete in North Massive? I saw the clip of you at my gym (North Mass) and recognized that boulder immediately 😂
I don't think dynos are a problem, but i don't think they should be more prominent then any other type of climbing. I'd like to see an even mix of all types in both gyms and competitions. Overhang, slab, a straight wall, extreme overhang, static, dynamic, crimpy, jugy, slopy, pinchers and crack. I just like to have the availability to pick what your most interested in at the gym or to try a bot of everything. I'd like to try crackclimbing, but my gym never sets up any crack problems. Maybe I'll just have to try it outdoors next summer.
The major issue for people (like me) who don't like dynamic climbing and comp climbing, is that indoor gyms are giving up on static boulders more and more, because most of the people want to see and climb like on TV.
I'm lucky to have a wonderful spraywall in my gym, where i can set beautiful statics boulders, but i don't think everyone has my luck.
At 7:38 Is that Crinoid Cove at the Mad?
Great point of view in the end as well.
I bet you Toby Segar could send a semi final dyno given enough time.
Edit: 3 seconds too soon.
The best overall climber (essentially getting from the bottom of something to the top of something) will have a good mix of all skills, including dynos, there should certainly be at least 1 big dyno in most competitions, similarly there should be crimp sections and overhangs too
I think the whole reason I got really into climbing was for how much body control it gave me. And there's lessons to be learned in that from both static and dynamic moves.
There’s a spot by my home where it is dynos. It’s really fun. It’s a little cliff edge that’s very flat with connecting stalagmites.
My gym had a lead route with a tricky dyno move and I was pretty shook as an outdoor climber. Got it 2nd attempt
Many sports have a natural vs man-made versions. One of my favorites is the perfect barrels at (I THINK) a surfing school somewhere. I see a Reel of it periodically on FB. I tend to like the indoor versions because indoors tend to accommodate food, restrooms, spectating, parking (usually). It also makes it easier to have it in a neighborhood as opposed to the nearest natural land formation. If it wasn't for the opening of the local climbing gym, I'd still be cycling, which I didn't realize how boring it was till I started climbing.🤣🤙🏽
It's the same problem that all entertainment is facing right now. In order to be really successful and make a lot of money, you need to reach the largest audience possible. I call them "the lowest common denominator". In order to do that, you need to appeal to those who know nothing about the subject. Dynos are flashy, risky, and exciting, and even those who have never climbed a ladder, let alone a rock wall, are attracted to that. It's the same with TV and movies. I'm a snowboarder and the same thing happened there. It became all about massive jumps and halfpipes. You tell someone that you snowboard and they ask if you can "do that stuff Shaun White does". They seriously think that's all snowboarding is, when it's really just a small part. They don't know about how relaxing and fulfilling it is to hike or skin up a slope for some fresh tracks. They don't know about the beauty of just being in the mountains, or the fun of ripping up trails at a resort with a bunch of friends. It's really a shame, but at the same time, it draws people to the sport. It can turn a hobby into a profession, and sometimes a lucrative one. So it's definitely a double edged sword.
At first i said "this shit isn't climbing anymore, go on a cliff if u want to climb". Now I say "it's good if indoor climbing is very different so people that learned inside don't go outside that much, and there are not too many people on the cliff. And I can still choose the boulders I climb indoor according to what I want to train."
Is dyno the crossfit of climbing?
the dynos are unnatura. most people who climb inside will be completely surprised when they go outside and realise that they won't find double dynos anywhere and that most outdoor climbs are static and technical.
As someone who climbs at college on routes set by only college students, I feel like it kinda is. Everyone wants to set the flashiest boulder so people go “who set that?”. Every boulder past v2 has a dyno or two, and it’s making it kind of boring. I want both.
Sounds like a fun gym besides the abundance of dynos, would love to set some routes with the homies.
9:30 another fun example is basketball. Dribbling was super controversial back when it first popped up. As the back could really only make progress through passing, players started bounce passing the ball to themselves which evolved into dribbling.
I think there needs to be a new word to describe parkour, as a dyno to me is moon kicks big throws and very common on rock however these ifsc dynos are very different, it’s more parkour and therefore I think we need to name those ifsc moves to save the word dyno from any hate
“This isn’t a public bathroom”😂😂😂 best joke of the day
IFSC about to change to IFSP soon. Climbing should be climbing; some dynos here and there is fine but there're way too many of them in climbing nowadays.
There’s been a little competition going on in the Reddit
I feel liked it’s an accessibility limiter, older people and people with certain body conditions can do normal bouldering just fine, but when you move into high paced rapid body stress their body can’t handle it.
Competitions are not trying to see who the best rock climber is, they’re trying to see who the best sport climber is. Thus, ifsc means international federation of sport climbing, which can be defined however they want.
i agree with u, boulder competition is by far the best entertainment, lead is a bit too long (but more satisfiying to do yourself) and speed is just the same route over and over again
I happen to like dynos, but not in competition. Let me explain, I'm a decent climber, ~8a boulder and I do sometimes competition and it's a bit frustrating because I often qualify myself to the finals, and boom 2/4 finals boulders are dynos but the entire start of the comp had almost none. It has become a style almost unique to comp finals and it's kinda sad in my opinion.
I agree with Adam... I went to a gym last week and its like 99% dynos. I went home like a half an hour later because I'm not 20 years old anymore and I don't want to break a bone lol
With perfect Balance\Control as well as good pathing\intuition or just knowing your route. You can climb things with speed unimaginable as well as with jumps. This would ofc be dangerous but never say never, trying the impossible can lead to things you'd never think of before. I don't think I've seen wall-running in rock climbing, least my idea of it. While with enough momentum and speed you can almost effortlessly climb up big rocky walls so long there's enough to grip, push, pull, and jump off. You must master using each limb with acute awareness and remember, when you reach the limit, you merely set the limit further.
I see a lot of new gym climbers who like to dyno/campus their way up these climbs, not realizing how much skill and strength it actually takes to keep the feet on the wall.
I'd say its leaning more towards Ninja warrior than parkour, although I guess Ninja warrior is a mix of parkour and climbing
Traditional rock climbing and bouldering continue to improve every year, why would anyone think it's being ruined? What one could argue is happening is that comp style is distancing itself from "actual rock climbing", so comps are no longer a way to determine who is the best rock climber; but then you have people like Ondra or Schubert (among many others), who are very succesful on the comp circuit and at the same time continue to push the limits of good old rock climbing to levels that were unheard of 20 or 30 years ago; so it's also kind of a moot point too.
"Just Parkour" like it wasn't an extremelly wide sport, that includes all kinds of jumps, flips, climbing, dance moves etc, also performed in just any kind of context. You say just parkour and honestly there is more to parkour than to climbing.
As a fairly static climber, I find forced dynos relatively whack. I do believe in working on your weaknesses and you should have a good dyno in your tool kit, but when the boulder calls for some forced 3 step dyno across the wall it’s basically just parkour.
I love dynos. I think maybe we could split climbing competition into dynos and statics, but I don't want to lose dynos. They're just too fun.
Adding to the discussion in the video, whether you like the comp style or not, you have to acknowledge that the elite comp climbers can usually do pretty hard stuff rather quickly also outdoors, even if they haven't spent so much time on real rock. So even if comp style is more dynamic, it doesn't mean that it couldn't translate to top level performance also on the rock. Usually the same doesn't go the other way around, so the comp climbers have often broader skill set and are perhaps more well rounded athletes.
That's a very good point. British climbers Alex Waterhouse & Billy Ridal both retired from comp climbing earlier this year in their mid 20s. Alex recently became only the third person to flash Belly Full Of Bad Berries & he and Billy have just freed The Nose within the past week
What would a non-dynamic movement be?
Yo brother, it’s so unpatriotic of you to mention the soviets doing the comps first. As I saw in the Valley Uprising, Americans INVENTED sport climbing. Cheers from Russia❤️
I personally hate the dyno meta in climbing. Sure it is fun to watch, but it is incredibly frustrating when I go to a gym to climb and all of the hard routes are dynos. I would love if they separated parkour gyms and climbing gyms, but I don’t see that happening ever
The purest form of climbing is static top-roping on hard-ass 5.10s. No overhang, no slopers, no slab - just you, the wall and an easy to diagnose series of juggy crimps.
such a great video and great statement
That popo medic intro got me thrilled
I really didn't expect to see my home town, Brno, the Czech Republic, in this video at 6:29 😂
The only reason I try dynos is to find a way to do them (when possible) staticly :D
I reckon were at a gud balance right now that lead and boulder still have their place, gotta know when to stop to not undermind one or the other in a comp. Not easy
Having watched IFSC comps in the 2014s and stopped in around 2016 I'd put the change actually there... You'd see dynos before, but not comp style multistep coordination moves.
IMO the frustration of people like me who claim that "dynos are ruining climbing" is that while indoor bouldering doesn't have to be a training tool for outdoor bouldering as it used to be, to some of us it still is, or we only boulder indoor but just like the outdoor style... But route setters are influenced by trends on social media, which is impacted by the fact that non climbers will interact with flashy dynos and coordinations more than they will to a slab. This creates sort of an echo chamber that's skewed. Kind of like if you remember the not so far ago era where there weren't couple-problems fo valentine's day. And now they're everywhere and all gyms will set one...
The fact is that finding gyms without a good portion of their sets to be comp style to some extent is getting difficult and frustrating. I'm fine sharing my sport with other enthusiasts that like a different blend than I do, but once in a while it feels like it's getting stolen from me. I don't watch the competitions anymore, the climbs just don't look like problems I'd dream to do.
Comp climbing became more flashy to attract people from the outside and had to lose some of it's original fanbase, that's it really... Just unfortunate to be part of those that just don't enjoy the new version that is getting so popular.
In my opinion, a proper dyno should be one that skips the "path" similar to how maybe on a rock wall, you could either climb static to the top, or maybe make a final leap to finish it off and skip the end. I feel dynos should at least some-what replicate this, and not be the intended path. That way, the different strengths of climbers can actually show. I do think dynos are cool and flashy, but they should not be the only way forward, else things like height and reach can be the difference between a successful run and a non-successful one (which ruins the idea of showing the strengths of the climbers)
The title and thumbnail got me bro! Hahahahaha!
The vast majority of climbers don't like comp climbing.
I've never been to a gym where the preference of the climbers at the gym is comp climbing.
Old school comps were so much more fun. Just to see really how hard some of these pros can pull. Its insane.