This is by far the best presentation of how to do this particular repair. So we'll done that I changed my mind and tackled the job myself with success. I will be recommending this site to all fellow Tesla owners and thank you sir for a job well done!
Thank you very much -- Not an influencer/proCZcamsr but do try to make detailed, comprehensive DIY stuff when I think it can help someone else. Much appreciated.
This happened on my 2016 today. Was pulling to the right for the last year, was still under warranty, they replaced the whole front end. Still pulled to the right, they said they couldn't identify it. Today my Lower Control arm snapped at the exact same spot, not under warranty anymore. Excellent video though appreciate it.
Superb video, always slide the wheel you just taken off under the side of the car. This is for all those without axel stands and those who are thinking where shall I put the wheel? Saves the day if the worst happens, 2.2 ton is gonna kill not just hurt.
Thanks for an excellent video! Unfortunately, we’ve just suffered the same catastrophe with our 2014 S85 ordered Jan/14. Our car has air suspension, the total bill is $7000. + and Tesla refuses any assistance. Even more galling, we had extended warranty until 2022, the service bulletin was issued Jan/2019 so our car was under warranty for several years and we had asked if any issues well before the warranty ended. They used the same VIN range to justify the service bulletin not being applicable, even though the bulletin itself says approximately. I asked if that meant the second design also failed and if my other side arm needed replacement. They would not reply, just sent me the bill. I’m disgusted, as a shareholder I expected better treatment from a company that seems to care about saving the planet but apparently cares little about the people who bought early and contributed to their success. Has anyone been able to get compensation? I’m still thinking I need the other side, crickets from Tesla, pretty pathetic really…. Love to hear any ideas, I’m thinking about small claims court, any thoughts appreciated!
WOW... $7000 !! I'm guessing peripheral damage, which I was moments away from. I can't remember if I mentioned in the video, but basically I made only left turns to get back to my house and in my driveway and I realized later that had I made ONE right turn I would have been "pulling" the tire out and likely had significant damage and been immobilized. Tesla's unwillingness to back their product-- especially with these petty VIN and production date range "recalls" (of which I've been unjustifiably outside 3x now, at my expense) that ignore PART NUMBERS-- is a major reason why we have not purchased a second Tesla and instead are 3 car purchases post-S to other manufacturers. I'm also not "upgrading" under any of their current transfer schemes as newer cars (with their weight/simplifications/production cost reductions) are no more proven durable than old ones at this point. As for your questions, I wish I could offer better advice... but all I can really say for certain is that if one arm failed you have to be aware that the other arm is of the same part revision and you should plan to replace it preemptively (as I did). The part cost was $350/each when I bought mine and the process is nontrivial but doable-- if you have the right tools and mechanical discipline to do correctly. I'd also suggest saving the failed part (just in case there ever WERE a lawsuit or recall) and saving the nonfailed part (as a backup, since they can be used on either side and it's yet unknown if the revised parts are of significant improvement).
@NZCUTR thank you! Could you tell me your car's date of manufacture? If it were newer than our car it further proves our case that vehicles were manufactured with these known defective parts after our February 2014 build. Much appreciated!
Awesome video, thank you man! Does anyone know, is the failing issue related only with the rear arms or also in the front? Going to upgrade mine asap, thanks!
Swedish autoshop had a video up about that exact issue and recived the lovely letter to take down the video. Its that the lower control arm is made from aluminium and the sleeve for the bushing is steel so you end up getting a galvanic reaction. Add salt and water to the mix its a disaster waiting to happen.
Not entirely sure what possible justification could be given to demand removal of a video like this. CZcams is FULL of videos describing various auto repairs and defects. But that's an interesting tidbit that they put more effort into silencing criticism than addressing the problem. Would love a link to the account (you can DM me) so I can ask them for details privately.
@@NZCUTR the same way Apple approach the same type of issues. Silence the ones who point put clear dangerous defective parts when they claim its not it could be classed as deformation.
I don't think that would fly here. In the US the laws are such they they'd have to prove that I'd said something wrong and that it directly caused financial harm to the company... which would be a pretty tough sell given my extremely small reach and their soaring profits. Besides, they already issued a TSB admitting these specific part numbers were faulty-- they're just being picky about random production dates being the ones they would replace or not, regardless of the part number. But the part number being faulty is not in question by either of us.
Did my left rear last year now 9 months later the right rear is done! Why won't @tesla do a recall for this control arm issue. Been driving for 35 years and never broke a control arm on any other vehicle..... 💩 #ElonMusk
Not always -- they detail a known repair procedure, but whether that is a paid repair or not can vary. Out of warranty they are often not covered. Also, the gripe here (and in a couple other instances I've had with Tesla) is that they assign eligibility based on production dates but not by part number. So I've had parts that were identical to TSB/recalled parts that were installed indentically and FAILED identically... and Tesla refused to cover because I was outside the "window" they made by date. It's crazy reasoning.
At 23:15-ish you can see the new part numbers on the invoice. My old arm was the one cited on the TSB that Tesla refused to honor, because they randomly concluded that production date superceded part number (which makes no sense at all). The new one-- as of this video-- is on the invoice seen in video, but might vary by configuration so I can't say that it's the same on every S or that it's necessarily a fix for the failure (we'll have to see how the fleet ages with this part): OLD rear lower control arm: 1021416-00-A NEW rear lower control arm: 1021416-00-D
Anyone knows when the updated control arm has been introduced in production? I am shopping for a 2018+ model S and would like to pick a car that already came with the new design parts
I don't have any idea... I think your best bet is to look at the underside where the fill marks are and see if that matches the old vs the new ones I showed in video. The marks are quite different and should be visible without removing anything.
Was the rear connecting rod easy to remove from the lower control arm? I attempted to remove last night but the 2 bolts only came out halfway. I didn't know if tapping them out would damage them.
By rear, I'm guessing you mean the inboard long blot(s). They are pretty hard to get out if they're jammed in place (and also hard to get the new ones in). Best method I've found is to just semi-aggressively jiggle and shake everything and that will free up the bolts and get you enough play-- or at least a little at a time-- to gradually work them in or out. I don't think a gentle tap on the end is going to hurt anything if necessary. I think I whacked them if the wrench a little because it was what I had handy. Really the hardest part is the growing ache in the back of the thighs from leaning into the wheel well AND maintaining patience.
There are usually NO SIGNS that the arm is about to fail. You might-- **MIGHT** -- be fortunate enough to hear a loud ping that could be the initial fracture. My assumption is that crack may then be visible if looking at the outboard end of the arm, visible just below the rear brake rotor dust shield. But the thing is, that crack could be near impossible to see even then. In my case, it wasn't until after the failure that I thought maybe I'd heard it crack. It really just sounded like driving over an acorn or something-- that airy ping the tires make on gravel, acorns, etc. -- I was just lucky that when it broke fully I was not quite on the highway yet and very close to my home, which I limped back to.
Best thing to do is do a periodic inspection. I was an aircraft mechanic and jets go through scheduled maintenance. You can do the same thing with your car. Preventive maintenance.
I'm not sure that an inspection is going to catch the metal fatigue failure that I experienced. The arm was over 8 years old with no sign of failure and had most recently been inspected 2 months prior. As I said in the video, there was (in retrospect) and odd sound the day before the failure but it could easily be missed and it's not the first thing you think of checking -- but even so, at the moment of the sound the failure (crack) had occured with no prior warning or obvious imminent failure. This wasn't a bushing or a joint failure, it was a poorly cast/manufactured part that just happened to not break sooner.
This is by far the best presentation of how to do this particular repair. So we'll done that I changed my mind and tackled the job myself with success. I will be recommending this site to all fellow Tesla owners and thank you sir for a job well done!
Thank you very much -- Not an influencer/proCZcamsr but do try to make detailed, comprehensive DIY stuff when I think it can help someone else. Much appreciated.
This happened on my 2016 today. Was pulling to the right for the last year, was still under warranty, they replaced the whole front end. Still pulled to the right, they said they couldn't identify it. Today my Lower Control arm snapped at the exact same spot, not under warranty anymore.
Excellent video though appreciate it.
Incredibly helpful video, the same thing just happened to me!
Very good explanations! I assume the reason for jacking up the suspension to 16in was for alignment and easy entry of bolts.
Superb video, always slide the wheel you just taken off under the side of the car. This is for all those without axel stands and those who are thinking where shall I put the wheel? Saves the day if the worst happens, 2.2 ton is gonna kill not just hurt.
Good idea -- thanks for mentioning. I had jack stand under the drive unit subframe, but for those without a wheel is cheap life insurance.
Thanks for an excellent video! Unfortunately, we’ve just suffered the same catastrophe with our 2014 S85 ordered Jan/14. Our car has air suspension, the total bill is $7000. + and Tesla refuses any assistance. Even more galling, we had extended warranty until 2022, the service bulletin was issued Jan/2019 so our car was under warranty for several years and we had asked if any issues well before the warranty ended. They used the same VIN range to justify the service bulletin not being applicable, even though the bulletin itself says approximately. I asked if that meant the second design also failed and if my other side arm needed replacement. They would not reply, just sent me the bill. I’m disgusted, as a shareholder I expected better treatment from a company that seems to care about saving the planet but apparently cares little about the people who bought early and contributed to their success. Has anyone been able to get compensation? I’m still thinking I need the other side, crickets from Tesla, pretty pathetic really….
Love to hear any ideas, I’m thinking about small claims court, any thoughts appreciated!
WOW... $7000 !! I'm guessing peripheral damage, which I was moments away from. I can't remember if I mentioned in the video, but basically I made only left turns to get back to my house and in my driveway and I realized later that had I made ONE right turn I would have been "pulling" the tire out and likely had significant damage and been immobilized.
Tesla's unwillingness to back their product-- especially with these petty VIN and production date range "recalls" (of which I've been unjustifiably outside 3x now, at my expense) that ignore PART NUMBERS-- is a major reason why we have not purchased a second Tesla and instead are 3 car purchases post-S to other manufacturers. I'm also not "upgrading" under any of their current transfer schemes as newer cars (with their weight/simplifications/production cost reductions) are no more proven durable than old ones at this point.
As for your questions, I wish I could offer better advice... but all I can really say for certain is that if one arm failed you have to be aware that the other arm is of the same part revision and you should plan to replace it preemptively (as I did). The part cost was $350/each when I bought mine and the process is nontrivial but doable-- if you have the right tools and mechanical discipline to do correctly.
I'd also suggest saving the failed part (just in case there ever WERE a lawsuit or recall) and saving the nonfailed part (as a backup, since they can be used on either side and it's yet unknown if the revised parts are of significant improvement).
@NZCUTR thank you! Could you tell me your car's date of manufacture? If it were newer than our car it further proves our case that vehicles were manufactured with these known defective parts after our February 2014 build. Much appreciated!
My car was built in May 2014.
Awesome video, thank you man!
Does anyone know, is the failing issue related only with the rear arms or also in the front? Going to upgrade mine asap, thanks!
Swedish autoshop had a video up about that exact issue and recived the lovely letter to take down the video. Its that the lower control arm is made from aluminium and the sleeve for the bushing is steel so you end up getting a galvanic reaction. Add salt and water to the mix its a disaster waiting to happen.
Not entirely sure what possible justification could be given to demand removal of a video like this. CZcams is FULL of videos describing various auto repairs and defects. But that's an interesting tidbit that they put more effort into silencing criticism than addressing the problem. Would love a link to the account (you can DM me) so I can ask them for details privately.
@@NZCUTR the same way Apple approach the same type of issues. Silence the ones who point put clear dangerous defective parts when they claim its not it could be classed as deformation.
I don't think that would fly here. In the US the laws are such they they'd have to prove that I'd said something wrong and that it directly caused financial harm to the company... which would be a pretty tough sell given my extremely small reach and their soaring profits. Besides, they already issued a TSB admitting these specific part numbers were faulty-- they're just being picky about random production dates being the ones they would replace or not, regardless of the part number. But the part number being faulty is not in question by either of us.
hello thanks for your video, so after your work have you make a geometry control, thanks from france, regards
Thanks for the video
Did my left rear last year now 9 months later the right rear is done!
Why won't @tesla do a recall for this control arm issue.
Been driving for 35 years and never broke a control arm on any other vehicle..... 💩 #ElonMusk
TSB are covered by the manufacturer for replacement and repair
Not always -- they detail a known repair procedure, but whether that is a paid repair or not can vary. Out of warranty they are often not covered. Also, the gripe here (and in a couple other instances I've had with Tesla) is that they assign eligibility based on production dates but not by part number. So I've had parts that were identical to TSB/recalled parts that were installed indentically and FAILED identically... and Tesla refused to cover because I was outside the "window" they made by date. It's crazy reasoning.
Great video! Do you have the old and new part numbers listed some where?
At 23:15-ish you can see the new part numbers on the invoice.
My old arm was the one cited on the TSB that Tesla refused to honor, because they randomly concluded that production date superceded part number (which makes no sense at all). The new one-- as of this video-- is on the invoice seen in video, but might vary by configuration so I can't say that it's the same on every S or that it's necessarily a fix for the failure (we'll have to see how the fleet ages with this part):
OLD rear lower control arm: 1021416-00-A
NEW rear lower control arm: 1021416-00-D
Brake dust makes it look like that
Anyone knows when the updated control arm has been introduced in production? I am shopping for a 2018+ model S and would like to pick a car that already came with the new design parts
I don't have any idea... I think your best bet is to look at the underside where the fill marks are and see if that matches the old vs the new ones I showed in video. The marks are quite different and should be visible without removing anything.
Was the rear connecting rod easy to remove from the lower control arm? I attempted to remove last night but the 2 bolts only came out halfway. I didn't know if tapping them out would damage them.
By rear, I'm guessing you mean the inboard long blot(s). They are pretty hard to get out if they're jammed in place (and also hard to get the new ones in). Best method I've found is to just semi-aggressively jiggle and shake everything and that will free up the bolts and get you enough play-- or at least a little at a time-- to gradually work them in or out. I don't think a gentle tap on the end is going to hurt anything if necessary. I think I whacked them if the wrench a little because it was what I had handy. Really the hardest part is the growing ache in the back of the thighs from leaning into the wheel well AND maintaining patience.
Did you buy the part directly from Tesla? How much did it cost?
Oh, I commented before the video ended ! Thanks for an informative video
Hey now, don't play with my algorithm! Ha ha --- yes, $350 as publication (in my area, YMMV)
In Canada it's $500 for the part, and $220 for install - should prilly be a free recall #BetterCallSaul
What are the signs that the rear control is about the fail?
There are usually NO SIGNS that the arm is about to fail. You might-- **MIGHT** -- be fortunate enough to hear a loud ping that could be the initial fracture. My assumption is that crack may then be visible if looking at the outboard end of the arm, visible just below the rear brake rotor dust shield. But the thing is, that crack could be near impossible to see even then. In my case, it wasn't until after the failure that I thought maybe I'd heard it crack. It really just sounded like driving over an acorn or something-- that airy ping the tires make on gravel, acorns, etc. -- I was just lucky that when it broke fully I was not quite on the highway yet and very close to my home, which I limped back to.
Thank you for your reply. My 2014 MS was made in March, so my car may have the upgraded part.
Sadly no. It's very unlikely that it does. My car is a May 2014 build and has the same parts as those that were recalled/covered in the TSB.
Best thing to do is do a periodic inspection. I was an aircraft mechanic and jets go through scheduled maintenance. You can do the same thing with your car. Preventive maintenance.
I'm not sure that an inspection is going to catch the metal fatigue failure that I experienced. The arm was over 8 years old with no sign of failure and had most recently been inspected 2 months prior. As I said in the video, there was (in retrospect) and odd sound the day before the failure but it could easily be missed and it's not the first thing you think of checking -- but even so, at the moment of the sound the failure (crack) had occured with no prior warning or obvious imminent failure. This wasn't a bushing or a joint failure, it was a poorly cast/manufactured part that just happened to not break sooner.
Look like salt rust ate it.